Tarrant County College
Travel Project
The Book of Kells
The Book of Kells, Folio 292r.
(Wikimedia Commons, Public domain)
Ellynn Askew
ARTS1301-86019
Richard Miller
February 26, 2023
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Travel Project Outline
I.
Introduction (1/2-1) page
A. Destination: Dublin, Republic of Ireland
1. Always wanted to explore Irish ancestry
2. English-speaking country
3. Beautiful landscapes
4. Irish people reputably friendly & welcoming
5. Amazing history
B. Travel Cost
1. Airfare: Round-trip DFW to DUB, May/June, 2 adults
a. Premium Economy-$2300/ea, American Airlines
b. Business Class $2700/ea, American Airlines
2. Lodgings
a. Hostels-$25-$45/night
b. Hotels-$70-$200/night
c. Clontarf Castle-$140/night
d. Fitzpatrick Castle-$120/night
e. Kinnitty Castle-$125/night
f. Barberstown Castle-$165/night
C. Transportation
1. Economy Car
a. $50/day
2. Dublin Bus
a. City Centre-65 cents
b. Zone 1-3-$1.77
c. 5-Day Pass-$35
3. LUAS (Tram)
a. Zone 1-$1.54
b. Zone 2-$1.88
c. 1-Day Pass-$7.29
d. 7-Day Pass-$25.72
4. Freedom Pass
a. 3 days unlimited travel on Dublin Bus-$37.51
D. Food & Drink
1. Breakfast
a. Hostels-Free Simple Breakfast
b. Breakfast Roll Convenience Store-$3.20-$6.50
c. Full Irish Breakfast-$8.50-$13
2. Lunch
a. Convenience Store Sandwiches-$6.50
b. Pub Sandwich-$6-$9
c. Cheap Takeaway-Around $7.50
3. Dinner
a. Pub Prices
i.
$6.50-$11 for a sandwich
ii.
$10.75-$16.50 for main course
b. Less Touristy Restaurant
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II.
i.
$16-$21
4. Treat (Dessert/Beer/Wine)
a. Pint of Beer-$7.50
b. Cup of Coffee-$3-$4.50
E. Sight-Seeing
1. Trinity College Long Hall-$20
2. Local Museums-Mostly Free
3. Dublin Pass-Covers 35 Dublin Attractions
a. 1 Day-$70
b. 2 Day-$90
c. 3 Day-$100
d. 4-Day-$110
e. 5-Day-$116
4. Kilmainham Gaol-$8.75
5. Walking Tours-Free, but tip the guides!
6. Bike Tours-$20+
F. Souvenirs
1. $500 Budgeted
Body of Paper (3-4) pages
A. Background Info on Dublin/Ireland
1. Founded by Vikings
2. Capital of The Republic of Ireland
3. Irish Govt
a. Elected Parliament
b. President no real power
4. Irish language dates to 4th Century
5. Over 30,000 Castles estimated
6. Dublin has 53 Foreign Embassies
B. Info About Trinity College
1. Founded by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592
2. Began as a monastery
3. Student body split by Ireland’s rebellion against the UK
4. Catholic Church banned Catholics from attending almost 100 years
5. Copy of every book printed in Britain & Ireland
6. Students unlimited access to Book of Kells
C. Info about Book of Kells
1. Not a book-collection of manuscripts
2. Contains 4 New Testament Gospels
3. Most copied from a Bible called the Vulgate
4. Only a few pages are displayed at any one time
5. Parts of it are missing
D. Imagery of the Book of Kells
1. Drawings & decorations are lavish & intricate
2. Created in Hiberno-Saxon/Insular Style
a. Blend of the curvilinear motifs and elaborated initials of the
Irish-Celtic tradition and Anglo-Saxon zoomorphic interlacing and bright coloring.
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III.
b. Characterized by geometric design, large areas of color, and
complicated interlaced patterns.
3. 340 high-quality vellum (calfskin) leaves/folios-680 pages
4. Some details can only be seen with a magnifying glass
5. Many minor decorative elements filled with Christian symbolism
6. Ornamentation includes ten full-page illustrations
7. Text pages are vibrant with decorated initials and interlinear
miniatures
8. Pages filled with figures of humans, animals, & legendary beings,
also Celtic knots and interlacing patterns in brilliant hues
9. Lettering done in iron gall ink
a. Used expensive pigments and gold to decorate letters and title
pages, and to illustrate passages.
b. Colors made with variety of materials, some imported from
other countries.
i.
The blue used-lapis lazuli-only found in the Middle
East-exorbitantly expensive.
Conclusion (1/2 page)
A. Final words about Book of Kells
B. Timing of the Trip
1. Long Hall where BoK displayed closed for renovations in 2023
2. Reopens in 2028
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I have always been fascinated with Ireland. I created "fairy finders" and made
magical potions from mud and water. I spent most of my summers in the woods behind
my grandmother's house, searching for the elusive fairy circle, indicated by a ring of
mushrooms, hoping to be whisked away to fairyland. I was often found sitting in a tree,
engrossed in a book of Irish myths or fairy tales. As I grew older, my time in the woods
diminished, but not my longing to someday visit Ireland. Over the years, I amassed a
rather large collection of books and movies about the Irish, in addition to browsing
through travel websites, and planning future adventures. Along the way, I stumbled
across the Book of Kells, in the Trinity College Library in Dublin. I was mesmerized by
the intricacy of the work; it seemed almost magical. I knew that seeing it was at the top
of my bucket list. The more in-depth my studies of The Emerald Isle, the more
enamored I became of its breathtaking landscapes and the friendly and welcoming
reputations of the Irish people.
In 2019, I did a DNA test through Ancestry.com and began the delightful yet
laborious process of tracing my family tree. My DNA would suggest that I'm largely
Scots Irish, but plotting a family tree through Scotland and Ireland gets quite difficult,
as many genealogy records have either been destroyed or are not yet available digitally.
The Irish Family History Centre is a great place to begin piecing together my ancestry
while allowing me to see some of the many amazing sites Dublin and the surrounding
areas offer.
Planning a trip abroad is an expensive undertaking. Round-trip airfare for my
husband and I is between $2300 and $2700. I like to explore at my own pace and not be
held to someone else's schedule, so pre-arranged tours aren't preferable. Over 2 weeks,
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I'd like to spend only a few nights in a hotel, likely the Academy Inn on O'Connell Street
which is a very busy area of town. (Longshore) (See Fig. 4) Signature Rooms start at
around $100/night. As this is a dream trip for me I'll likely indulge in a few nights in
actual castles, and otherwise stay in hostels, which average about $30 per night. (Insight
Guides) There are 4 castles I'd like to visit and possibly stay in: Clontarf, at $140/night,
(See Fig. 2) Fitzpatrick, at $120/night, Kinnitty, $120/night, (See Fig. 3) and
Barberstown, $160/night. (See Fig. 1)
Neither my husband nor I are big breakfast eaters, preferring to grab a cup of
coffee. Most hostels offer a free simple breakfast, while coffee is around 3 or 4 dollars. I
would like to indulge in the renowned Irish breakfast at least once, which is around $12.
For lunch, we'll take the quick and convenient route more often than not and grab a
quick sandwich at a local pub or convenience store, around $6-$9 each. Most evenings
will be spent in a pub, sampling the local fare for around $15 or so. Neither of us drinks
much, but when in Ireland, sampling the beer is almost required. A pint of beer at a pub
is usually around $7. (Steves and O'Connor)
I will rent a car for the duration of the trip, as I like to be in control of my
schedule. An economy car is around $50/day, plus petrol, so transportation alone will
be in the $700 range. Thankfully, many of the museums in Dublin are free. A 5-day
Dublin pass covers many of the other attractions for less than $120, including Dublin
castle. Kilmainham Gaol, a former prison in Ireland that has become a famous museum,
charges only $8.75 per person. (See Fig. 5) There are also many free walking tours in the
city, as long as you tip the guides! (Steves and O'Connor)
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I will likely splurge on so many souvenirs I'll have to mail them home. Dublin has
several shops selling locally made items. You can choose from clothing, jewelry, home
goods, food, handcrafted woolens, art, ceramics, soaps, and more. (Insight) Many pieces
feature Celtic knots and the Tree of Life, which are designs that already frequent my
home design as well as my car. Thankfully, my husband is much more practical in
concerns of money, as I will likely want one of everything.
Over the centuries, Dublin has seen war, plague, rebellion, and fire; it has shown
amazing resilience as populations eventually surged to the over 1 million people that live
there today. Ptolemy referenced settlements in the area as far back as AD 140, (History
of Dublin) but the Dublin it has become today was reportedly founded by Vikings on the
South banks of the river Liffey around 841, naming it, "Dubh Linn," or Black Pool.
(Lambert) An Irish King defeated the Vikings in 1014 and held the area until it was
conquered by Normans in the 12th century. Around 1350, an Irish rebellion broke out
against Norman rule. Two hundred years later, Henry VIII crushed the Irish rebellion to
transform it into a Protestant country and abolished all Catholic monasteries.
He was proclaimed King of Ireland in 1542 even though he wasn't acknowledged by the
Catholic monarchies. Almost 50 years later, Queen Elizabeth I established Ireland's first
University, Trinity College, on land that had been confiscated from one such monastery.
(Blake) Catholics were not allowed to attend until the passage of The Relief Act in 1793,
but the Catholic Church itself did not allow its constituents to officially attend Trinity
until 1970, though many were already enrolled.
The ruling government changed many times in The Republic of Ireland, and in
1973 it became a member state of the European Union. It has expanded rapidly since
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then, with many multinational headquarters installed in the capital city of Dublin as
well as 53 Foreign Embassies. The President of Ireland (Uachtarán na hÉireann) is the
head of State, though the presidential position has a limited scope of power, unlike the
Presidency in the United States. The government is instead run by a group of senior
ministers responsible for the executive power of the State. After a general election, the
Dáil, or Irish parliament, elects the Taoiseach, who then nominates a deputy called the
Tánaiste, and the minister cabinet. The Taoiseach is also responsible for communication
between the government and the President. (Citizens Information)
There are many government and historical buildings to visit in Dublin, but at the
very top of my list is the renowned Trinity College. Urban legends and ghost stories
abound at Trinity, (Martin) and the Campanile Bell Tower is no exception. Superstition
suggests that to pass underneath it as it tolls is to surely fail your exams. At the main
gate, there are statues of graduates on either side to greet you as you enter Parliament
Square. (Game) You can either purchase admission to just the Old Library and The Book
of Kells or indulge in a student-led walking tour of the entire 42-acre campus for only a
bit more. The Trinity College Library has been a copyright library since 1801, which
allows it to claim a free copy of every book published in Britain or Ireland. It is now a
repository of more than 4 million books, maps, and manuscripts. In addition to The
Book of Kells, which students have unlimited access to, they have the Brian Boru harp,
which is the national symbol of Ireland, as well as several other historical and artistic
works. (See Figures 6-8)
Described as 'Ireland's Greatest Treasure', (Cave and Ayad) The Book of Kells is
considered a key part of Irish identity. While much of its creation is shrouded in
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mystery, what we do know of its journey is remarkable. Literary scholars mainly agree
that The Book of Kells originated at a monastery in Iona sometime in the late 9th
century. Most assertions hold that the monastery in Kells in which the manuscript
eventually resided could not have been where it was initially created. The new
monastery, established in 1904, would not have had resources such as those in the much
older monastery in Iona. (Stalley, "Iona, The Vikings and the Making of The Book of
Kells") It is believed that the manuscript was created in honor of St. Columba, the
founder of the monastery in Iona, to be used during special ceremonies. Due to
incursions by Viking raiders, the monks in Iona sought a site better protected and
established a monastery in the village of Kells in County Meath, Ireland. You can still
find remnants of the original monastery today. (Cline) The manuscript that came to be
known as The Book of Kells in the 19th century was likely one of many treasures
relocated for safety. (Kenyon)
In 1654 many relics were again at risk due to Cromwellian cavalry being housed
at the monastery. The manuscript was given to Trinity College in 1661, where it still
resides today. Having been rebound into 4 volumes, one for each of the Gospels, two are
displayed in a glass case in the library. A page is turned every 4-5 months, one to show
an illuminated page, and one to show a text page. (Simms et al.) Most of the text pages
carry 17 lines in Latin. (Childress)
Some people believed that The Book of Kells had been created by St. Columba
himself, and treated the book as a relic. While St. Columba is venerated by many, it is
generally accepted that the work was created by a team of at least 4 illuminators focused
on the illustrations, while there were between 3 and 4 scribes who did the writing.
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Described in the 11th century Annals of Ulster as "primh-mind iarthair domain". "the
most precious object of the western world", (Banville) the artistry and diligence that
went into the manuscript, or codex, has endured. Each word and illustration was
uniquely designed, in a time long printing presses existed. The painstaking process of
delicate calligraphy and intricate imagery was rare and precious. It was also in the
Annals of Ulster that a theft of the book was recorded. Stolen in 1007, it was found
buried at Kells, albeit missing its jewel-studded golden cover. (Paglia)
"The Book of Kells represents the expression of something of very high
achievement, and people here know that it is an Irish cultural achievement," says
Bernard Meehan, the Keeper of Manuscripts at Trinity. (Jaschik) The pages are made of
340 pages of vellum, a calfskin made ready for writing, each written on or decorated on
both sides to make 680 pages total. There are presumed to be between 20 and 30 pages
that have either been lost or were not completed. In the Book of Kells, you can see the
difference between the hair and the flesh side of the calfskin vellum, which likely took
about 150 calves and several months of scraping and flattening before it was ready for
use. (Simms et al.)
The ink was once believed to have come from plants and stones in faraway places.
Scientific imaging has shown that much of it was procured locally. Chalk, gypsum, and
indigo were used, as well as carbon black ink made by charring wood or bone. We still
don't know how some of the colors, such as pink, were made. (Konieczny)
The Head of Conservation at Trinity, Susan Bioletti, noted that red lead, orpiment, and
iron gall ink were used as well. (Grimwode) The colors used in the manuscript are far
more diverse than those used in other works of the time. Some of the main pigments are
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clear, such as those mentioned above, as well as vermilion, verdigris, ultramarine, and
folium, producing many varying shades of purple. (Stalley, "Investigating the Book of
Kells.") The quills used by the monks were finely trimmed and heat treated for added
strength.
The art style throughout The Book of Kells is done in the Insular, or HibernoSaxon style. Based originally on the art and culture of Celtic Ireland, considered a more
barbaric style, it grew into a sophisticated art with much influence. The Celts had a
strong artistic tradition, commonly using geometrical patterns. Over time, local styles
found their way into illuminated works, drawing on traditional Celtic patterns as well as
their folklore, with plants, animals, and creatures of fantasy. Many of the lines of text
throughout the gospels are strewn with animals, birds, and human figures. Many
symbolic representations of Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John are on the pages.
(Anderson) The Latin calligraphy is very embellished, with spirals, intertwining
geometric shapes, arabesques, and zoomorphic, phyllomorphic, and human
representations. Illustrations include triskeles, an ancient design consisting of a triple
spiral in rotational symmetry that long predates Christianity, as well as acrobats, ornate
letters, and quite frequently, cats. (O'Reilly) The first full-page illustration is on folio 7v,
(See Fig. 9) and it depicts the Virgin and Child surrounded by four angels. The detail is
evident, even on the border. You would need a magnifying glass to uncover all the
intricacies of the page. (De Hamel)
One of the most celebrated and recognized illuminations is the Chi Ro Page. (See
Fig. 10) This page features stylized versions of the triskele, having easily been adapted
by monks into a symbol of the Trinity. (Grovier) Featuring delicate but pronounced
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pinks, orangey-reds, and yellows, the page depicts the first three letters of Christ's name
in the Greek alphabet—the Chi (X), Rho (P), and Iota (I). Hard to see with the naked
eye, it's interwoven with a menagerie of beasts and motifs. Therein you may find an
otter catching a fish (the symbol for Christ) or spot butterflies emerging from cocoons.
The design is filled with shapes and curves all nested within one another, with small
animalistic details scattered throughout. (See Figures 11-13)
While you can obtain a facsimile, or exact copy, of The Book of Kells from a Swiss
Publisher for the low price of around $15,000 each, I can't help but think that it would
pale in comparison to standing before the original artwork. While The Book of Kells is
still on display and remains accessible to visitors in a temporary location, The Old
Library where it was formerly displayed was closed in October of 2022 for extensive
renovation, expected to take 3-5 years to complete. The Long Room alone has nearly
200,000 printed books, affected by the daily grime of centuries of visitors. Some
volumes have cotton tape holding their bindings together, while others are in such a
state they cannot be viewed by visiting scholars for fear of further damage. Assistants
have begun affixing RFID tags to volumes so that they can still be retrieved during the
renovation. (Webber) Call me a purist, but I want to see the glory of The Book Kells as
intended: within the confines of The Long Hall. Renovations are expected to be
complete in 2027-28, hopefully making it the perfect time to visit before I begin Grad
School.
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Fig. 1 Barberstown Castle By Harold Strong, CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikipedia Commons
Fig. 2 Clontarf Castle Hotel By Cailín Sásta at English Wikipedia, CC BY 3.0
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Fig. 3 Kinnity Castle, Wikipedia Commons
Fig. 4 Dublin, O'Connell Street Robzle, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
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Fig. 5 Kilmainham Jail Roof Public Domain Photograph
Fig. 6 Entrance to Trinity College, Stephen Bergin via Wikimedia Commons
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Fig. 7 The campanile at Trinity College William Murphy Flickr
Fig. 8 Long Room at Trinity, By Diliff - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikipedia Commons
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Fig. 9 Madonna and Child Folio 7v, Digital Collections, The Library of Trinity College Dublin
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Fig. 10 Chi Ro Page Folio 34r, Digital Collections, The Library of Trinity College Dublin
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Fig. 11 Breves causae of Matthew I-III Folio 8r, Digital Collections, The Library of Trinity
College Dublin
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Fig. 12 Matthew Folio 74r, Digital Collections, The Library of Trinity College Dublin
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Fig. 13 Matthew, carpet page Folio 33r, Digital Collections, The Library of Trinity College
Dublin
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Banville, John. "Let there be light; John Banville on the enduring fascination of
Ireland's monastic masterpiece, the Book of Kells." Financial Times, 24 Nov.
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Story, From Egypt to E-book. Reprint, Firefly Books, 2017. Pp. 60-61
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Cline, Lynn "The Gospel According to Kells." Santa Fe New Mexican [Santa Fe, NM], 9
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Trinity College, Dublin. Thames Hudson, 1995.
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1994, pp. 94–97. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/20492768.
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Netherlands, Van Haren Publishing, 2023.
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