Construction Manual
Marc Veillet
WYOMING LOG HOME MANUFACTURING
COMPANY
LOG HOME CONSTUCTION GUIDE
1st EDITION
2011
Created and assembled by
Marc D. Veillet
Special Thanks to
Bob Szewc
These are his ideas
All pictures taken by Marc D. Veillet
All artwork and drawings done by Marc D. Veillet
All pictures, images, are property of
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company
and may not be reproduced in any form without written permission.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
LIST OF FIGURES ..................................................................................................................... vi
PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ............................................................................ viii
INTRODUCTION......................................................................................................................... 1
ABOUT US ..................................................................................................................................... 1
The history ............................................................................................................................................ 1
The Staff ................................................................................................................................................ 2
The Region ............................................................................................................................................ 2
The Outstanding Quality ....................................................................................................................... 2
The Lifestyle .......................................................................................................................................... 2
Why Build a Log Home? ........................................................................................................................ 3
About Our Logs ..................................................................................................................................... 4
About Our Milling Process .................................................................................................................... 6
PLANNING ................................................................................................................................... 9
BUDGET ........................................................................................................................................ 9
DESIGN ....................................................................................................................................... 10
Floor Plan ............................................................................................................................................ 10
Curb Appeal......................................................................................................................................... 11
Layout Book ........................................................................................................................................ 11
PERMITS ..................................................................................................................................... 12
ACCESS........................................................................................................................................ 12
FEES ............................................................................................................................................ 12
SITE PREPARATION ...................................................................................................................... 12
Geology ............................................................................................................................................... 13
Property line........................................................................................................................................ 13
Well ..................................................................................................................................................... 13
Septic................................................................................................................................................... 13
Foundation .......................................................................................................................................... 14
PRE LOG HOME CONSTRUCTION PLANNING ................................................................................. 14
Log Lengths ......................................................................................................................................... 14
Internal and External Post and Beam ................................................................................................. 15
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Doors and Windows ............................................................................................................................ 16
Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)............................................................................. 16
Plumbing ............................................................................................................................................. 16
Electrical .............................................................................................................................................. 16
CONTRACTOR .............................................................................................................................. 17
GREEN SOLUTIONS (Optional) ...................................................................................................... 17
CONSTRUCTION ...................................................................................................................... 18
FOOTINGS ................................................................................................................................... 18
Preliminary Footer Specifications ....................................................................................................... 19
Site Preparation .................................................................................................................................. 19
Excavation ........................................................................................................................................... 21
Drainage .............................................................................................................................................. 22
Form Layout ........................................................................................................................................ 23
Construction........................................................................................................................................ 29
FOUNDATION .............................................................................................................................. 37
Foundation types ................................................................................................................................ 37
ARXX Wall System ............................................................................................................................... 38
Vapor Barrier ....................................................................................................................................... 39
Anchor Bolts ........................................................................................................................................ 39
Knockouts............................................................................................................................................ 40
Joist Pockets ........................................................................................................................................ 40
Concrete pour ..................................................................................................................................... 41
Backfill ................................................................................................................................................. 42
THE HOUSE ................................................................................................................................. 43
Layout.................................................................................................................................................. 44
Cut Sheets ........................................................................................................................................... 44
Sub-Floor ............................................................................................................................................. 45
Placing the Logs on the Site ................................................................................................................ 49
Cutting the Logs to length ................................................................................................................... 50
Stacking Issues, Where You Can Get Out of Level .............................................................................. 50
Log Walls, the First Course .................................................................................................................. 51
Log Walls, the Second Course ............................................................................................................. 52
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Log Walls, The rest .............................................................................................................................. 54
Window Bucks and Window Opening................................................................................................. 58
Door Posts and Door Opening ............................................................................................................ 58
Posts .................................................................................................................................................... 60
Beams .................................................................................................................................................. 60
Floor joists ........................................................................................................................................... 60
Tongue and groove, flooring ............................................................................................................... 61
Top Wall Logs ...................................................................................................................................... 63
Gable Ends .......................................................................................................................................... 63
Roof Purlins ......................................................................................................................................... 64
Overhangs ........................................................................................................................................... 65
Tongue and Groove, Ceiling/Roof ....................................................................................................... 65
Trusses ................................................................................................................................................ 66
PORCHES..................................................................................................................................... 67
Porch Post Pilings ................................................................................................................................ 67
Porch Posts.......................................................................................................................................... 68
Porch Beams ....................................................................................................................................... 70
Porch Rafters ....................................................................................................................................... 70
Tongue and Groove............................................................................................................................. 70
Porch Roof........................................................................................................................................... 71
Porch Floor .......................................................................................................................................... 72
HOUSE ROOF SYSTEM.................................................................................................................. 73
REINFORCEMENT ........................................................................................................................ 74
FINISHING ................................................................................................................................. 75
INTERIOR .................................................................................................................................... 75
Windows ............................................................................................................................................. 76
Doors ................................................................................................................................................... 76
Sanding ................................................................................................................................................ 76
Interior Log Wall Coating .................................................................................................................... 77
Stud walls ............................................................................................................................................ 77
Electrical wiring ................................................................................................................................... 77
HVAC ................................................................................................................................................... 77
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Drywall ................................................................................................................................................ 78
Paint .................................................................................................................................................... 78
Interior Chinking ................................................................................................................................. 78
Flooring/Carpeting .............................................................................................................................. 78
Trim and Base Boards ......................................................................................................................... 78
Fireplace .............................................................................................................................................. 78
Appliances ........................................................................................................................................... 79
Cupboards ........................................................................................................................................... 79
EXTERIOR .................................................................................................................................... 79
Coatings............................................................................................................................................... 79
Chinking............................................................................................................................................... 79
Hydrants .............................................................................................................................................. 80
Exterior Electric ................................................................................................................................... 80
UPKEEP ...................................................................................................................................... 81
COATING ..................................................................................................................................... 81
PORCH FLOORS ........................................................................................................................... 82
CHINK ......................................................................................................................................... 82
APPENDICIES ............................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
R-values and how they relate to log walls. ...................................................................................... I
Thermal Mass................................................................................................................................ II
U-Value ........................................................................................................................................ III
Log Wall................................................................................................................................................ III
Windows and U-Factor ........................................................................................................................ III
MATERIALS ................................................................................................................................... V
CHECKLISTS ................................................................................................................................. VII
TABLES ....................................................................................................................................... XVI
ARXX Block Information .................................................................................................................... XVI
Log Course Height ............................................................................................................................ XVII
GLOSSARY.................................................................................................................................. A
ACKNOWLEGMENTS ............................................................................................................... F
REFERENCES ............................................................................................................................. G
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LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1. Measuring out the stakes.
Figure 2. Cross section of the footing with respect to the soils, foundation, and drain tile.
Figure 3. The footing forms being laid out
Figure 1. Measuring the diagonals
Figure 5. Setting up the interior form boards
Figure 6. Make sure that the form boards are level with each other.
Figure 7. The rebar placement in the footers also showing the form boards
Figure 8. Form boards in place with the horizontal rebar being held in place with rebar stakes.
Strapping is used to hold the vertical members in place and to also prevent the forms from
spreading.
Figure 9. Vertical rebar members placed through the strapping. Notice the protective caps on
the rebar and also the Ufer ground wire.
Figure 10. The Ufer copper ground wire is attached to the horizontal rebar inside of the forms.
Figure 11. A pump truck makes it quick and easy to pour the concrete into the footer forms and
later for the concrete in the foundation.
Figure 12. Leveling off the concrete to the form boards with a 2x4 screet.
Figure 13. If you are kind to your pump truck driver he will help you trowel your footers.
Notice the remote for the boom for the pump truck around his waist.
Figure 14. The ARXX system foundation walls in relation to the bottom course, the sub floor
and the footing. Also of importance are the depictions of the anchor bolts that tie in the first
course to the foundation wall. This shows just how structurally sound the wall is from the footer
to the logs.
Figure 15. Wall anchor bolt assembly.
Figure 16. Cross section of a typical wall using the ARXX system. There are several different
concrete form systems.
Figure 17. Showing a typical cut sheet with distances to wall and window openings.
Figure 18. The Floor Joists and the Sub floor.
Figure 19. A 900 pound hoist. This crane will allow a single person to lift and maneuver the
logs for the home walls.
Figure 20. The first course of logs attached to the sub floor.
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Figure 21. The wall anchor bolt assembly placement and installation.
Figure 22. Cross section of the electrical wiring in the second course. Also shown is the drilling
through the first course and the sub floor for a chase.
Figure 23. Drill pattern and Log Hawgs for the fastening of one course to another.
Figure 24. Top view of the electrical going into a door post for switches.
Figure 25. Floor joists, posts, and purlins on the second level of a log home.
Figure 26. Tongue and groove fastened to a floor joist. Each piece of tongue and groove tightly
interconnects with the next to provide a squeak free highly stable and beautiful floor.
Figure 27. Roof purlins that have been string lined and braced to be well within tolerances.
Figure 28. Two king trusses with 3/8" reinforced plating below a tongue and groove ceiling.
Figure 29. Porch post footing with sona tube and anchor bolt.
Figure 30. Porch post being anchored to the footing.
Figure 31. Porch rafters with tongue and groove.
Figure 32. A typical dark stained wall showing a light colored elastic chink.
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PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This manual has taken a considerable amount of time to amass. It has been over a year since I
have started gathering the information. Most of the information is our own findings, but several
studies into R-Factor and Thermal mass have been referenced. Not only did I have to cover all
the basics of making a log home. But I had to relearn what I knew about log homes
It has been our intent from the start to show people to the advantages of log construction over
and all other forms of home construction. The point of this manual is to present any individual
group of people directions to construct a beautiful and sound log home.
The construction techniques involved are not the only ones available, and may not be the best
out there in this world of 5 billion people, however, they are tried and true over the past thirty
years. They are efficient, relatively simple, and cost effective.
Every picture is from the hundreds of houses that we have designed, constructed or
manufactured.
All the drawings were created on a PC using AchiCAD, a very powerful
architectural design program.
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I would like to thank Rich McLain, PhD, parents Dan and Linda Veillet, Angel Ricker, Gay
Hale, Michelle Nielsen, John Mark Roufs, JD, Chris Godsey, and most of all Bob Szewc.
Bob Szewc is an amazing man who throws himself wholeheartedly into his trade. All the
planning and construction are reflected in this love of log homes. He is a master craftsman, a
hunter, a fisherman, a teacher and most of all, a friend.
This is not just our story, but everyone’s who wishes to construct a log home.
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Note to the reader;
Some of this construction guide may sound complicating or confusing. In all reality it is really
simple and basic construction. If at any point during the construction you have questions about
our procedures please contact us. There is no such thing as a dumb question!
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INTRODUCTION
ABOUT US
The history
Wyoming Log Homes (WLH) founder Bob Szewc has worked in the log home industry since
1972. With the help of his daughter Michelle (Szewc) Nielsen, Wyoming Log Homes
Manufacturing Company expanded in 2005.
The company started in Story Wyoming, and then moved to Sheridan, then finally out to its new
mill in Ranchester, Wyoming. With a 10,000 square foot mill and 10 acre log yard, Wyoming
Log Homes Mfg Co has enough space and capability to handle thousands of linear feet of logs a
week.
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The Staff
Wyoming Log Homes has the staff to fulfill all your needs. A project manager can handle all of
the general and subcontracting as well as pricing of all the projects. A full time architectural
designer using the latest and best CAD software will make you designs a reality. A qualified and
experienced sawyer is on hand to make custom dimensions as well as regular milling. A full
time secretary takes care of all the billing and clerical needs. The mill is staffed with hard
working and knowledgeable technicians.
The Region
We are located in the heart of the old west, an area rich in history, hunting, fishing, methane, and
coal.
The Outstanding Quality
In addition to over forty years of log home building and manufacturing experience, WLH has a
full-time design draftsman ready to assist in customizing any project. WLH is always refining its
collection of popular designs, incorporating new and innovative ways to meet the customer’s
needs. Standard features such as porches, overhangs and extended eaves that help reduce home
maintenance are all examples of the thought and detail that go into a WLH-designed house.
All logs are milled and hand drawn at the WLH mill in Ranchester, Wyoming, allowing Bob
direct oversight to ensure the quality of each WLH log home. Wyoming Log Homes are simply
the best log homes on the market today.
The Lifestyle
The log home epitomizes the outdoor style of living. Outdoor activities, mountains and forests
are often associated with the log home. Log homes are thought of first when one thinks of
western living. The log home was important in this country’s westward expansion. Log homes
have come a long way but are essentially the same basic structure. With the development of
stains, coatings, and elastic chinks, the longevity and beauty are increased greatly.
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Why Build a Log Home?
A log home is cost effective, energy efficient, environmentally friendly, and structurally sound
home. And not to mention, it is beautiful, a timeless creation that with proper maintenance, last
more than a century.
The cost of a stick frame, sided and insulated, exterior wall is approximately the same cost as an
8x8 log wall. When you consider labor, the 8”x8” log wall has the advantage. It takes far less
time and materials to assemble a log wall. It is also less complex. Once you put up the logs,
you’re almost done. All that is left is some sanding, staining and coating, and lastly chinking.
Calculating the R-value and thermal mass of a log wall is a difficult process. With all the
different log types used and all of the variances inherent in a lot of logs, it is understandable as to
why. However there are studies that have been done in controlled environments. The results
also are dependent upon what kind of a wall system that you are using. Examples such as
Swedish Cope, hand peeled, and square. The walls with the greatest effects are the square log
walls. The square logs have the greatest surface-to-surface contact than any other system. This
is what maximizes the insulative and thermal banking properties of the data.
A conventional stick framed wall, insulated and sided is marginally more efficient than an 8x8
log wall. When the log wall uses a thickness up to around 10”x10” and larger, an interesting
effect is observed. Thermal mass is “banked” in the log. This causes the log to actually store
heat or cold. The walls to store the heat during the winter months and radiate it back into the
house. During summer months, this gradient takes longer for the heat from the exterior to reach
the interior. However if the interior is cool, it will maintain its cool temperature. A great
example of this is a 14 x 14 log wall house will not need to be air conditioned in +100 degreedays in the summer and maintain a comfortable temperature inside. [2]
Interior temperature data in a real world scenario is skewed by large amounts of glass and
ineffective overhangs. It must be stated, to effectively control the interior temperature, ample
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overhangs may be implemented to keep the home cool during the summer and a mindful use of
glass to keep it warm in the winter.
More Data can be ready in “The Energy Performance of Log Homes” prepared Technical
Committee of the Log Homes Council, Building Systems Councils, National Association of
Home Builders, 2003 [4]
A log home is a very solid and secure structure. Each log is tied to the log below it and the log
above it. The bottom log is bolted into the foundation. The corners are tied into each other for
maximum stability. All beams, floor girders, joists and purlins are fastened into each other. It is
rigid yet flexible. An interesting point to make is that a log beam will last longer than a metal
beam during a fire.
About Our Logs
Each WLH log has milled square sides with hand-peeled corners. Logs are milled from standing
dead dry or fire killed dry timber, typically Lodge Pole Pine, Spruce, or Ponderosa Pine. These
wood varieties produce high-grade logs with exceptional strength and visual appeal. Our goal is
to maximize the unique character of each log to enhance your investment.
Spruce and Lodge Pole Pine are our primary woods. Ponderosa Pine and Douglas fir are also
available. We use these trees because they are even and straight grained, low moisture content,
few knots, low log twist and are structurally sound. We use Douglas fir when needed for long
spans and also for decking. These trees are not harvested green. They are Pine Beetle kill,
standing dead, or fire kill. This insect intrusion is what gives the logs their blue hue. The blue
hue is made by the tree’s response to the beetles. Essentially, the trees used are culled from
forests to prevent forest fires and to maintain animal habitat.
Our main supply of logs comes out of British Columbia, directly north of us in Canada. We also
use local lumber and we select these logs using the same high standards as we do with all our
logs. It is said that a house is only as good as its foundation. It can also be said that a log home
is only as good as its logs
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Prior to establishing WLH, Bob worked with standard log products - typically milled round logs
with Swedish Cope insets. Over the years, he noticed a variety of problems inherent in Swedish
cope construction. Bob began experimenting with different log shapes, and in 1996 he founded
Wyoming Log Homes, using the WLH “square log system”. “I just got tired of trying to fix all of
the problems inherit with Swedish cope log,” Bob says. WLH now uses the square log system
exclusively.
WLH square logs eliminate the settling problem by increasing the amount of contact between log
courses to 7-8 inches across the log on log surface- nearly double the contact typical in Swedish
Cope construction. Square logs provide the maximum insulative properties available in log
home construction. WLH logs are milled to fit flush along their length, increasing overall
thermal mass and requiring very little additional sealing or gap insulation. Square logs result in
superior interior fit and finish, as well. With no rounded sides to work with, interior cabinetry
and decorations install easily and without awkward transitions.
Settling is a common problem experienced with the more common “Swedish Cope” log shape.
The standard in the industry for years, Swedish Cope construction has proven to result in
consistent settling of 1 ½ inches on an 8-foot, milled-log wall, and as much as 6 inches in an 8foot, hand-peeled log wall. Settling can result in a myriad of problems for the builder or
homeowner, including buckled door jams, crushed windows, damaged electrical wiring,
collapsed roofs, and structural shifting.
Round logs make contact at narrow points that require supplemental insulation such .As
caulking, foam strips, and additional chinking to prevent heat loss. A square log allows the
builder four sides to choose from when constructing your home. The log side with the most
character can be placed where it will have the most visual impact. Less attractive features can be
placed out of sight. WLH logs stack evenly, showing off all the grain and color you expect in a
log home, with no two logs looking the same.
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About Our Milling Process
Our logs go through a twelve-part process from the time they are delivered our yard and to when
they exit. The logs are sorted, milled, draw knifed, plained, cut to length, drilled for bolts, routed
for electric, routed at the ends, tagged, stacked into bunks, wrapped in plastic, and finally loaded
onto a truck. All these steps ensure that each log is accounted for and is moved through the mill
as efficiently as possible. This allows us to mill more products in less time keeping log costs per
linear foot down and allows us to deliver a log package in an efficient manner.
When the logs arrive in our yard, they are sorted according to diameter, length, and quality. All
logs are sorted facing the same way, meaning that all the tree bases are on the same side. This
ensures that when the log is place upon the saw, the base will be toward the left, toward the saw.
The saw always starts cutting at the base. When the logs are processed through the mill, the base
of the tree will be on the right. All bunks are done this way with the logs facing in the same
direction. This gives symmetry to the house when the logs are stacked. All knots and grain are
facing in the same direction.
When the log is placed upon the saw, it is cut on all four sides. When material is removed, a log
may slightly expand and warp. To eliminate this potential issue, wood is removed in smaller
increments from each side till it is the desired diameter. Essentially if you make just four cuts on
a round log, you may have some twisting problems as the log “relaxes” from the release of the
pressure. This is why you make several passes with the saw to get your desired log width, cut
some then measure, then cut some more.
Not just any log is brought to the saw. Every log is sorted from longest to shortest and numbered
on the cut sheet list. Depending on the size of the log, ten to sixteen tags are removed from the
list and sorted according to wall side and length. This assures that when the logs are put into the
bunk and labeled on the bunk sheet, that the logs will be stacked according to length and
facilitate easier loading on a trailer.
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The edges of the milled logs are draw knifed to remove the wane. This is done by hand with
custom made draw knifes. Beams are draw knifed differently than wall logs. Just a small
amount is peeled off the corners to maximize the surface area for structural integrity. A typical
Wall log will have around 1-½ inches of the edge removed by hand.
Inside and outside sides are plained twice. It is determined then which side to face the interior
and which side does not. Generally the sides with character are faced to the sides for viewing.
The sides that are shown can be rounded and do not need the flat on flat that the top and bottom
needs. The sides that are shown are the sides to be planed. This plaining will remove 1/16 or
1/8 of an inch from the sides of the log. This will not affect the stacking height. If the log were
to be planed on the top and bottom, this would lead to errors in the overall height of the wall. So
it is important to choose the best side to plane, for this side will bee seen and later sanded and
stained. The first pass of the planer is from right to left and the second from left to right. The
planer is kept clean of sap and lubricated with beeswax. This makes it easier to plane by
reducing the friction between the planer and the log. The logs only need to be planed on the
sides that are visible. On posts, joists, and beams, all four sides would be planed. On wall logs
that have pass ends, all four sides of the “tail” will be planed. Since the tails are 4 inches, the
plaining of the tails would be kept to a minimum.
The logs are cut to predetermined lengths after they are plained. The logs are flat against the
back of the rollers to ensure that the cut is plumb. First the right hand side of the log is cut. A
predetermined measurement is then taken from the right end of the log to the left end of the log.
A mark is made as close to the backside of the log as possible. The log is then rolled through the
saw and cut on the left side of this mark. Marking it towards the back makes it easier to judge
the cut.
The logs are then marked for where the holes are drilled for bolts. Each log size has its own drill
pattern. Butt ends and pass ends also have different drill patterns. These varying patterns ensure
that no bolts are put in atop each other and also to maximize the wall stability. The first number
of the drill pattern is how far from the left side of the log is the first hole. The second number is
how many inches from the left end of the log are the rest of the holes and how far they are from
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each other. The third number is the distance of the drill hole on the right side of the log
measured from the right side.
Logs are routed along each end to “clean up” the appearance of “butt joints” or “tail ends” Logs
are then routed for electrical and rafters if needed.
After the logs are routed around the edges on the ends, a tag is applied with staples. It is this tag
that gives the spatial location of the log on a plan called a cut sheet. Tags are printed on Rolodex
paper with a laser printer to ensure maximum readability and protection from the elements.
Logs are stacked into bunks. Bunk sizes are determined by log sizes and also log lengths.
Before the bunks are wrapped in plastic, a sheet is made recording the positioning of the logs in
the bunk. These sheets are put together to identify where the logs are located when it comes to
stacking the logs. The bunks are wrapped in plastic. The plastic is stapled to the logs. When the
bunks are covered in plastic, they are banded. What limits the bunk size, other than weight, is its
ability to sit on a truck bed in tandem with another bunk.
When the logs are loaded onto a truck, they must be stacked even and as close together as
possible. A truck can handle 40,000 to 60,000 pounds and be stacked thirteen feet six inches
high. Stickers are used under each of the bunks so that a forklift can easily remove them. A lot
of the planning that goes into the preparation of the bunks, such as order and stacking become
relevant when the bunks are loaded upon a truck.
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PLANNING
We feel that there are eight major steps in the process of planning for the construction of a
log house. These steps are budget, design, permits, access, fees, site preparation, log
planning, and contracting. Included, as an optional step is the “Green Solution”. Following
these eight steps will eliminate the guesswork in preparing your new home. This planning
will make the process of becoming a new homeowner relatively simple and easy.
BUDGET
Know the amount of the loan that you are approved for. You must be able to present to
the lender exactly what you want to do and how you can afford it. Generally the monthly
mortgage payment should be no more than one-third of your monthly salary. It is very
important to know the budget, but in order to know what you can spend; you need to
know what you need to spend. A finished house that has been built by a contractor can
generally run from $125 to $200 to “the sky is the limit” per square foot. This number
can be decreased by 25% to 45% for the Do-it-yourselfer.
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Make a list of all the items that you need all the items that you want. Price out all items
and total them up. Do some research, visit wholesalers, and “haggle” on pricing. Keep
an eye on the bottom line here.
Your budget will tell you how many extras that you can get for your house. If you only
can get a loan for X amount of dollars and your design calls out for X+N, you will have
to rethink the items on which you are to spend your money on. Money can be saved on
items such as windows, countertops, appliances, fixtures, cabinetry, flooring, vendors,
and contractors. It is the spending on items such as these that causes the variance in the
price per square foot.
Most projects will run over budget by approximately 10%. Cost overruns can be caused
by poor planning, the weather, people not showing up, and increases in the product cost
from the time of the quote, and even fuel prices. Rarely included in a quote is your time.
How much gas and food money do you spend?
What are your out of the pocket
expenses?
Remember, keep you designs in the scope of your pre-approved budget and make a
spreadsheet with all costs broken down. When you do apply for your loan, you will have
to have your design well documented and detailed as well as providing a well-detailed
layout book.
DESIGN
Covered herein are a few basic topics on designing your house. The topics progress from
conceptual to putting it in a standard format. Your floor plan, curb appearance, and the
presentation of your design in a layout book are the basic topics that we feel important to
cover. Remember to stick to your budget in each topic. Your budget will give you your
limitations on what design features you can and cannot afford to have. Make sure that the
design sticks to local building codes.
Floor Plan
Finding a perfect floor plan can be a challenge. Every detail must be taken into
account, from the kitchen layout to the bathroom placements to the ways that the
doors will open. Weeks, months and even years can be spent into finding the
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ideal layout. However, a very rough idea can be made to come to life in a
relatively short time with the aid of qualified people. Wyoming Log Home Mfg
Co can be hired to make these plans for you.
Curb Appeal
There is a line between decorative and gaudy. A line between what can be done
economically and what will be astronomical in cost.
Form should follow
function. It is nice to have your entrance grand, but if your views are mountains,
will you sacrifice the view for the entrance. You will want to take the view into
account when placing your windows. Do not succumb to vanity and sacrifice
viewing to curb appeal; you look out of the house, not into. However, if you have
no views, curb appeal may be your correct choice.
Large windows that face the sun will make the house overly warm. A general
note is to have your large glass windows face the sun in the morning and not in
the afternoon. The house will cool down and not be uncomfortable at night when
you wish to sleep. Remember, all your windows and rooms cannot face south
either, unless you are building the house into the side of a hill. Pay heed in this
order; the viewing area, the south, the sun, and then the curb.
Layout Book
For a loan, a bank and an appraiser will require a well-documented plan for your
house or structure. Contractors and sub-contractors also need a well-documented
plan to accurately bid out any jobs. Floor plans, elevations, electrical, cross
sections and details are needed. The more accurate your layout book is, the fewer
mistakes will be made.
A well-made layout will save you time and materials. You can determine, or
have determined for you the amount of materials that you need. Depending with
a quality layout and an experienced design team, the material cost divergence can
be kept to a minimum. This is done through powerful CAD software, design
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excellence, and again, experience. Bottom line is, a superior layout plan will cost
more, but in the long run the savings will be ten-fold.
You will need from the designer two sets of plans, a final copy printed on 20 lbbonded inkjet, and a copy printed on 18 lb translucent bond. The 20 lb is a
tougher paper used as a final set. The 18 lb is for making copies at a print shop so
that you can distribute them to the appropriate people such as sub-contractors.
At Wyoming Log Home Mfg Co we pride ourselves in our superior quality of our
layouts and the cost effectiveness that they produce.
PERMITS
Consult local code enforcers on permitting. Building permits are required in most areas
for new construction or additions. Permits can and will vary from city to city, county to
county, and state to state. Know your local zoning and codes before applying for
permits.
Knowing the information beforehand will keep misunderstandings to a
minimum.
ACCESS
You need to be sure of your access. Make sure you have all the access that you will need
for present and future scenarios. If you have an easement, is it legal? Make sure any
bridges can be crossed with heavy trucks and that all roads can be used with heavy
equipment. Get everything in writing and signed by all responsible parties.
FEES
Power, water, and sewage all cost money to connect. When you are building, you will
need power at your jobsite. It is also a good idea to have a port-a-potty also. If you opt
for natural gas you will have to take that into account also. It also may cost you a fee to
get a building permit.
SITE PREPARATION
Preliminary work must be done on your site. It must be known whether or not you need
to hire engineers to test your soils and surveyors to validate your property line. You will
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have to know your well parameters and availability. You will have to know what kind of
a septic that you can have and where it can go. All these categories will affect your
budget from the cost of the engineers and if required, the costs of putting in your well and
septic.
Geology
You may be required to get soil tests to determine your footing design. If you are
building on rock, how will you install your well or your septic system? Does the
soil drain well or will you have to make ditches? A soil engineer is needed for
this.
Property line
Have the corners of your property checked and staked by a qualified person. If
you are unsure of the stakes, or there is any ambiguity, get it taken care of before
you start any dirt work. Make certain that all your property lines are up to date
and more importantly, legal. A land surveyor is needed for this.
Well
Check zoning with the proper local government officials. It may be the case that
you have no access to water and will need a cistern. You will have to take that
into account when designing your home. You may not need a well if you’re
building where public water is available.
Septic
Check zoning with the proper local government officials. You may have to have
a raised septic system depending on your ground water table. Separation is also
needed between the well and the septic. This varies from place to place so you
will have to consult your local zoning regulations. You may be able to just hook
into the city or county works if available.
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Foundation
Where on your parcel will you put your foundation? Stake out where you want it
to go, how you want it to face. Make sure you have some batter boards in place
to aid in the excavation. The ground slope will determine what you need to do for
your foundation. If it is flat, you can get by with a slab or crawlspace. The more
severe the slope, the less your options become. You will have to go with an
enclosed or walk out basement. You may be required to have a civil or structural
engineer do this.
PRE LOG HOME CONSTRUCTION PLANNING
Your design is governed by your budget. Your planning is governed by your design.
When deciding what lengths to cut your logs, and where to place them, you must know
about certain design features.
You have to know where your plumbing, electrical,
heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC), windows, doors, and any internal and
external support structure will be. Once you know the spatial relationship of these items,
you can design your log lengths and where they will be placed. Most, if not all of your
pre construction planning can be taken from your layout book.
Log Lengths
You will have to do extensive planning and conceptualization of log lengths to
get them to fit. This must be done as efficiently as possible to minimize waste
and the need to order more logs. If you are not efficient, you will have a lot of
waste and have walls with many butt joints in them. The guidelines for setting up
your walls, crossing the corners, and butt joint placement are explained in detail
later in section 2.2.5.4.
If using random length logs, a plan should be drawn up of the log walls. On this
plan, you will determine where each log will go. You will have to determine
what logs are to be cut and where to place the remainder of that log. Again, this
is of utmost importance because it will determine the look of your house. The
fewer awkward butt joints the better.
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A cut sheet diagram should be made and each log should be accounted for before
you cut and place any logs. It cannot be stated enough that if you are wasteful,
you will be short on logs and have to spend time and money ordering new ones.
Before you can start the cut sheet diagram is started, the following items must be
completed:
Window and Door schedules.
Exact window and door placement on the floor plan.
Internal post and beam structures.
External post and beam structures.
Wall heights.
Log types.
Elevations.
After you know what is going into your log house, you can then design the cut
sheets to determine your log lengths. Wyoming Log Home Mfg Co can be hired
to make the cut sheet plans for you.
Internal and External Post and Beam
If your floor plan is large enough you will have to incorporate an internal post and
beam structure to support the roof and roof purlins. It must be noted that you can
replace most post and beam structures, at an additional cost, with a custom king
post truss.
Log beams have limitations on their spans. These limitations are based on their
size, the wood type, their length, the load that they are carrying, and their
accepted deflection (how much the beam can bend before it starts ruining things
such as cracks in the plaster.). Generally try not to span more than 16 feet with
8x8 logs, 18 feet with 10x10 logs, and twenty feet with 12x12 logs.
Posts should, when possible translate from the purlins to the foundation in a
straight line. It will, however, be necessary to place a beam on the purlins to open
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up the structure. It would be make sense to have an internal post every four feet
on your loft or your main floor.
Doors and Windows
Have your doors and windows picked out prior to or in conjunction with design.
You will have needed to know this already because it will have to be accounted
for in your plan. Having a door and window schedule is important. The schedule
will give you the rough opening dimensions for you openings.
These
measurements are then used on your cut sheet so that you can adjust your log
lengths to have the correct openings. If you do not, your doors and windows will
not fit properly.
Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)
You will have to make a choice before construction as to which type of HVAC
you will use. In-floor heating requires a different approach to the sub-floor than
ductwork. Ductwork, however, makes central air conditioning possible. These
approaches will be discussed in further detail in section 3.1.6.
Plumbing
Pick out fixtures to fit your plan. Determine where your sewer is going to enter
and exit your house. You may have to redesign your interior layout a bit if it
enters at an undesirable location, such as in a bedroom in a basement. You will
also want to have hydrants on the exterior of your house.
Electrical
Make an electrical diagram for each floor showing placement for all fixtures,
outlets, switches, telephones, and cable. Take this to a licensed electrician for a
quote. Make sure that every subcontractor is bidding like against like. The
placement of the electrical outlets and switches in the log wall are discussed in
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detail in section 3.1.14. Know where your power is coming into your house. You
will need to put your electrical fuses close to this.
CONTRACTOR
You can either hire a contractor or you can be your own contractor. Each has its
advantages. The contractor will take care of all the subcontractors for you and make sure
the project is going smoothly if you cannot afford the time. If you are the contractor, it is
up to you to align the logistics of all the subcontractors from cement, electrical, HVAC,
drywall, appliances, and et cetera. You will need to present your layouts to the contractor
and sub-contractors for bidding.
Make sure that you are able to get copies of your layouts. A sub contractor cannot
accurately bid out a project without them. A print shop can make copies of your blue
prints for you. You will want to get copies from a translucent bond set of layouts. These
are a semi transparent “trace paper” set that makes copying easier. Wyoming Log
Home Mfg Co can provide a translucent bond set of layout plans.
The clear benefit of you being the contractor is saving money. However, you must have
faith in the fact that you know what you are doing. This manual will help you in the task
of building a log house. But it all comes down to these questions, can you do it, will you
have the time, do you possess the skills?
GREEN SOLUTIONS (Optional)
Something to consider when designing your home is a “green solution”. Solar power and
wind power have made great advances in the last several decades. Passive solar power
can be used to heat your water. This is also a benefit if you have in floor heating. Active
“photovoltaic” solar power can lessen your power draw off of the grid. This approach
could also take you off the grid entirely. Wind power can be used in certain areas also to
further augment your needs. A wise choice here will have an initial investment, but in
the long run it will pay off. Generally using an alternate energy source, such as solar and
wind, will make you eligible for a federal tax credit.
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CONSTRUCTION
Construction is broken down into four main sections; footings, foundation, home, and
finishing. Each section is important in its own right. It must be remembered though, that a
house is only as good as its foundation. Extra attention is focused on that concept. It must be
noted that there are as many ways to build a house and that this is the way Wyoming Log
Home Mfg Co builds their houses. This technique has over thirty years of impressive
success after success.
FOOTINGS
Preliminary footer specifications, excavation, drainage, layout and construction are all to
be considered when doing your footers.
This is a very important stage for the
construction of your house. Mistakes here can prove costly when the construction of the
house begins. Proper time and attention is needed to eliminate any measurement issues
when constructing your footers
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Preliminary Footer Specifications
Before you can construct the footers, you need to know what size they need to be.
You will also need to know where the footers will go and how deep they need to
be. Your house may need a variety of footers. If your house has a fireplace or
any internal post and beam structures, you will need to add reinforced concrete
pads below them.
To be safe, consult a structural engineer and have a soil test done. Make sure that
they know exactly the load that you will be putting on those footings. Your
building height, stories, floor design and log sizes are some of the items that will
determine your load. Logs are heavier than stick build. Rule of thumb, 1 linear
foot of 10-inch log wall at 8 feet of height is 125 pounds. The standard footing
size is 20 inches wide by 8 inches tall.
Consult your layouts to where any internal beams or fireplaces are placed; a
concrete pad will have to go underneath this to translate the internal downward
forces to the ground. Fireplace footers should be approximately the size of the
fireplace. Footers for an internal post should be made of a reinforced concrete
pad that is 3 feet wide by 3 feet wide and 8 inches deep. It may be required
however to have a footing that bridges the middle of the structure, or if there are
load bearing walls, a continual footer beneath them.
If you have a basement or garage, you will need to have a frost wall beneath the
exterior openings. The bottom of the footer from the top of the grade is 42 inches
by code. Remember, codes can and will vary, so check with the proper officials
to be certain.
Site Preparation
Before you get started on any excavating, an outline will have to be drawn onto
the ground of exactly where to dig. Stakes must be driven and batter boards must
be set up. Blaze orange paint and string lines are used to mark the area.
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When you measure out the perimeter at least three people are needed to make it
easy. Start with one metal stake. (Fig 1)
Use this stake to determine the
positioning of the house. All measurements are to be taken from this stake so
make sure it’s securely implanted into the ground, over a foot deep if necessary.
Use a 100 foot tape measure to measure the distance of the second stake. In order
to get the position of the third stake you need to triangulate it with the aid of
another 100’ tape measure. To triangulate this measurement you must secure one
tape to the first stake, this tape will measure your diagonal. Then you secure the
second tape on the second stake, this will measure your length. When the tape
measure from your first stake reads the distance of your diagonal, and the second
tape from the second tape reads your length, this is where you put your third
stake. To achieve the positioning of the fourth stake simply repeat this for the
other side taking to account that you’ll have to “mirror” what you have done.
When you are done, the difference in all of the four sides and the diagonals must
be no greater than ¼ of an inch if at all possible. Make sure that the tape is tight
Figure 2 Measuring out the stakes.
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and that there are no rocks or other obstructions in the way. Also try not to
measure in a high wind environment if it can be helped. Later when you are
installing the form boards and the stakes it will be easier to attain the ¼ of an inch
level of accuracy.
String line where you wish to dig and use batter boards to attach the line. In soft
soil batter boards are a must be used to create an extremely reliable mark. These
markers will keep you on track and prevent any oversights on digging.
Figure 3 Cross section of the footing with respect to the soils, foundation, and drain tile.
Excavation
When excavating for your foundation, whether it is a full basement or a slab
several things must be considered. It must determine what to remove and where
to put the overburden that has just been removed. Consideration should be made
for exactly how much earth is to be removed. Special attention must be put into
replacing the soil and to slope it all away from the house. If the excavated soil is
sand and the site is in a windy area, all of the overburden will be blown back over
the worksite.
Anytime doing a concrete pour, soil must be removed from the site. All grass and
root overburden must be removed to ensure a stable foundation. Any organic
material below and around the foundation and the footers will cause cracking due
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to plant growth or decay. Make sure you have a place to put all this dirt where it
is not in the way of construction. Some of the dirt will have to be put back, so do
not put it too far away.
It also may be a good idea to separate the soil types. Clay, gravel, and organic
dirt have different attributes. You do not want to put your topsoil on the bottom
and your clay on the top when backfilling.
When excavating for the footers, make sure you have at least two feet from the
outside of the footer to the excavation wall. You will need space to work. If too
much material is removed it will cost more money for the excavation and will
take longer to refill. The less soil disturbed, the less soil will have to be tamped
back in place.
Use a transit a laser level and landscaping spikes to make sure that the bottom of
the hole is flat. Variations in this can lead to a host of problems. Your footers
will not be level.
You could end up with the bottom of the excavated area
sloping away from a day lighted basement creating drainage issues. If the bottom
of the hole is not flat and you’re pouring a slab, your slab will have varying
thicknesses and will lead to cracking and instability.
All slopes must be worked to slope away from the house. This is to insure that
any moisture, above and below the surface, does not enter the house.
Drainage
Always slope away from the house. Too much ground slope may force you to put
in full or walk out basements. You will have to use drain tile, for potential
ground water problems (Fig 1). The drain-tile can lead to a sump pump or be
day-lighted to the exterior of the house.
A sump pump can be used for surface water. Day-light the drains if the site is on
a hillside. Rock and or gravel may be needed for leveling and drainage.
If you have a wet spot under the house during excavation, this too must be
drained. Drain tile should be put down where the spot is to direct any potential
water flow away from the building. This should be done anywhere within the
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excavated area especially when pouring a slab. The pressure that groundwater
can create may fracture your slab in the long run.
The drain tile generally has a 4 inch diameter and is placed outside the foundation
below the tops of the footers. A bed of porous gravel is laid down before it is set
in place. Then the pipe is covered in about 6 inches of gravel and tarpaper is
placed over the top of the gravel. This will ensure that the drain tile will not be
filled up with fine sediments such as sand, silt, and clay. Soil that has been
removed for the excavation is then placed upon this and it is compacted.
Drain tile is generally laid down after the construction of the foundation before
backfilling. However, if there is a spot that will require drainage inside the
foundation walls, it must be dealt with before laying the footers and subsequent
foundation.
It is important to understand the importance of drainage. Without a proper system
to relieve liquids, you can have movement in your foundation that will lead to
cracking and upheaval.
Drain Tile supplies needed:
□ 4” Drain Tile.
□ Gravel.
□ Tar paper.
Form Layout
Forms are used to hold the concrete in place. A string line is set up to the exact
measurements of the layout to guide the footer. A transit is used to set up the
exact elevation of the tops of the form boards.
The forms are made up of
planking and held upright with stakes. It is the forms job to hold the concrete in
place as it is poured and as it cures. The planking and stakes are removed after
the concrete has had ample time to cure.
The forms must be properly measured and constructed. Special attention must be
given to the accuracy of the diagonals measurements at the corners and the
elevation of the top of the footers. (Fig 2) A measurement of the diagonals will
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Figure 4 The footing forms being laid out.
keep the forms square. Use the pre-determined dimensions from the footer plan
in your layout book.
Lay out string lines to insure the correct dimensions. Pick a corner that will be
your baseline for you measurements and pound in a stake. Use a 100 foot tape
measure to measure the distance of the second stake. In order to get the position
of the third stake you need to triangulate it with the aid of another 100’ tape
measure. To triangulate this measurement you must secure one tape to the first
stake, this tape will measure your diagonal. Then you secure the second tape on
the second stake, this will measure your length.
When the tape measure from
your first stake reads the distance of your diagonal, and the second tape from the
second tape reads your length, this is where you put your third stake. (Fig 4) To
achieve the positioning of the fourth stake simply repeat this for the other side
taking to account that you’ll have to “mirror” what you have done. When you are
done, the difference in all of the four sides and the diagonals must be no greater
than ¼ of an inch if at all possible. Make sure that the tape is tight and that there
are no rocks or other obstructions in the way. Also try not to measure in a high
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wind environment. Later when you are installing the form boards and the stakes
it will be easier to attain the ¼ of an inch level of accuracy.
Use a transit to measure the elevation. Measure the tops of the initial stakes that
were pounded into the ground for the string lines. Adjust the stakes so that they
are all the same. This will help with keeping the elevations the same when you
put in the form boards. As you put down the form boards, measurements of
elevations from the top of the forms will keep them level. A laser level would
help with this greatly. There must be no greater than ¼ of an inch difference in
elevations. A ½ inch off here can and will translate to 3 inches out of plumb on
top of the foundation wall. This will lead to instabilities in the foundation walls
and subsequently the house.
Figure 5 Measuring the diagonals.
The outside perimeter measurement is the most critical. Before you string line the
interior dimensions, drive the stakes and lay down the planking to the correct
elevation for the outside perimeter. When the outside perimeter is complete,
prepare a string line the interior form board placement. Make a mark that is the
width of the footer from the inside edge from each corner of the inside of the
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outer perimeter form boards. Drive a nail into the form board at this mark, there
should be eight marks. Run a string line from these nails; make sure you run the
string line back over itself in the corners. (Fig 5)
Stake off form boards at the appropriate distance parallel to the outside perimeter.
Make sure that when the stakes are put into the ground that they are the distance
away from the string line that is the width of the planking that is being used. If
the stakes are put in on the edge of the string line, the footer will not be thick
enough. Keep the elevations as exact as the outside perimeter.
Figure 6 Setting up the interior form boards.
There is a very good reason for having the form boards as straight and as level as
possible. When you take the measurements for the foundation walls, you are
taking them from the sides of the footer. If the footer is wavy, then your wall will
be wavy. If the footer is crooked, then your wall will be crooked. A crooked wall
leads to floor joists of varying length and that in turn leads to rooms that are
crooked. If it is wavy, then your floor will be wavy and so will your walls and
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your roof. Windows and doors will not properly fit. Your house will be a mess if
proper attention and time is not given to the correct building of your footers.
The forms must also be made out of the appropriate planking material and
secured in place with the use of stakes. Use 2x8, 2x10, or 2x12 planking for the
form boards. The dimensions of the planking will depend on your footer depth.
The types of stakes that you use to secure the forms are dependent upon the soil
type. Wood stakes for normal soil and steel for rocky soil. Stakes are placed
closer together in softer soils, further apart in firmer soils. Staking out where the
forms will go takes time and energy, but it must be done correctly. Reinforce any
joint between form boards with stakes or pieces of scrap lumber. You must be
absolutely sure that the weight of the volume of concrete will not “blow out” your
forms. This will cost time and money. Remember to constantly check your
measurements, take your time. (Fig 6)
Figure 7 Make sure that the form boards are level with each other.
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The order to laying out your forms is as follows:
□ Set up a stake a properly measured string line.
□ Check your diagonals at the stakes
□ Check your elevations at the top of the stakes
□ Insert the proper planks.
□ Stake the planking every 4 feet to 6 feet (depending on soil).
□ Screw all the stakes to the planking.
□ Reinforce joints with additional stakes.
□ Install bracing OSB or 1x4 bracing straps every six inches.
□ Recheck your diagonals.
□ Recheck and fine tune the elevations to within a ¼ of an inch.
□ Re-screw all the stakes to the planking to make elevation
adjustments if needed
Tools needed for laying out the forms:
□ Sledge Hammer.
□ String Line.
□ Two 100’ tape measures.
□ Power Drill.
□ Level (laser if possible)
□ Transit
Supplies needed for laying out the forms:
□ Screws.
□ Stakes.
□ Form boards.
□ Pry bar for disassembly.
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Construction
After the completion of the forms it is time to start constructing the footers. It is
important to correctly reinforce the footers with ½” rebar. (Fig 7)
There are two
types of rebar to install horizontal and vertical. When you pour, everything must
be secured so it does not move. The poured concrete in the footer forms will need
to be screed. After the footers cure, the forms and stakes are to be removed.
Figure 8 The rebar placement in the footers also showing the form boards.
Rebar comes in 20 foot long sections. You will need to have a rebar cutter on
site to cut the rebar to appropriate lengths. You will also need to bend rebar so it
can be “teed” off into other rebar. You can use the rebar cutter to bend the rebar.
Before you place the rebar in the forms, put two rebar stakes every two feet.
These stakes will hold the rebar in place and keep the rebar from spreading apart
when the concrete is poured.
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We usually recommend 12” x 20” footer size reinforced with four ½ inch pieces
of rebar, two on the top and two on the bottom. Set the horizontal rebar into the
forms. (Fig. 3) Hook the rebar into the rebar stakes. (Remember to check your
local codes before hand.) A good rule of thumb, keep the lower course of rebar 2
inches from the ground. And the upper course 2 inches from the top. Rebar
stakes ensure the heights from the ground and the top of the pour. Make sure the
rebar is at least 4 inches from the sides of the forms. Consult your local codes for
further details on reinforced concrete footers. (Fig 8)
Figure 9 Form boards in place with the horizontal rebar being held in place with rebar
stakes. Strapping is used to hold the vertical members in place and to also prevent the forms
from spreading.
Place ½ inch of vertical rebar every 4 feet centered on the footer. “Tee” the
vertical rebar into the lower tier of the horizontal rebar. The rebar generally
extends 2 feet in height from the top of the footer. In a 12-inch deep footer, this
would make the height of the rebar above bend around 2 foot 10 inches. Fasten a
piece of OSB to span the form board over where the vertical rebar will be placed.
Drill a 3/4 inch hole into the center of the OSB strips. Insert the vertical rod into
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the hole and fasten the bent portion of the bottom to the parallel rebar. Make sure
you install the temporary protective caps on all your vertical rebar to avoid
injuries and to make the rebar more visible. (Fig 9)
Again remember to consult
your local codes for further details on the reinforcement of concrete footers.
Figure 10 Vertical rebar members placed through the strapping. Notice the protective caps
on the rebar and also the Ufer ground wire.
Cross wire the rebar every other rebar stake (four feet) to prevent the spreading of
the rebar. Cross wire every joint in the form boards to prevent the form boards
from spreading.
You may need to be required to install an Ufer ground wire. (Fig 10)
Use a
copper strand wire and attach it to the rebar in the footers. Run the copper strand
out the bottom of the footer. This will allow the house to be properly grounded.
Its effectiveness is based on the idea that concrete is more conductive than most
soil
You’re almost ready to pour the concrete. But before you begin, there are several
logistical tasks that you must complete:
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□ What time will the cement trucks arrive?
□ How much concrete do you need?
□ How many trucks do you need?
□ If there is more than one truck you will have to stagger their
arrival.
□ How long will it take to unload the cement?
□ Weather, will it rain, or snow.
□ Can you get the concrete to all sides of the site?
□ Can you get concrete to the site?
□ Do you need a pump truck? (Fig 11)
□ The pump truck must arrive before the cement trucks.
Figure 11 The Ufer copper ground wire is attached to the horizontal rebar inside of the
forms.
Make sure that you have the right equipment for the job. Concrete is very
corrosive. Make sure you are wearing the proper attire, rubber boots and old
clothing. Wear gloves too or your hands will get burned. It would also not be
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beneficial to have the truck show up and you do not have any wheel barrows or
hand trowels if and when needed.
Tools and supplies needed for the concrete for the footings:
□ Wheel Barrow
□ Trowel
□ Shovels
□ Water source
Figure 12 A pump truck makes it quick and easy to pour the concrete into the footer forms
and later for the concrete in the foundation.
When the concrete arrives, before you pour, make sure that it is the right
consistency. Keep in mind that concrete should roughly contain (by weight, not
volume) minimum 15% cement, 60-75% aggregate (this can be all sand, or a mix
of sand and crushed rock or pumice) and a minimum of 15-20% water. A
concrete slump test can be performed to gauge whether it is the correct mix is and
if the mixes are consistent. A low slump is preferred in construction and all the
slumps from different trucks should match.
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Basically for a slump test, the concrete is put into a container and overturned on
the ground. After about five seconds the container is removed. This container is
called a slump cone. The difference in the height of the bucket and unsupported
stabilized concrete is its slump. So if it slumps too much, it isn’t suitable for
construction. The acceptable slump is referred to in your building codes. You
may or may not have to add water or aggregate to the batch to arrive at the correct
consistency.
Figure 13 Leveling off the concrete to the form boards with a 2x4 screet.
It may be a good idea to wet the ground where the cement will be poured. This
may ensure that the ground will not absorb some of the moisture in the concrete.
This would cause the bottom of the footer to become brittle.
Pre pour checklist for the footers:
□ Concrete is the right consistency.
□ The ground beneath where the cement is to be poured is damp.
□ Everyone is paying attention.
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□ Trash is out of the way.
□ The forms are reinforced and will not “blow out”.
Now it is time to pour the concrete into the forms. If you cannot get the truck
close enough, use a wheel barrow to move the cement. Level off the form boards
with a 2 x 4 screet. (Fig 12) Make sure the concrete is as level as possible. It
may be necessary to you use a trowel in some of the corners. (Fig 13)
Cover the concrete with tarps if it looks like it is going to rain.
Make sure that the concrete has had at least 48 hours to set before continuing.
Typically at 3 days the concrete achieves approximately 40% of its design
strength and at 7 days, 60%. At 28 days concrete compression design strength
should be reached.
Figure 14 If you are kind to your pump truck driver he will help you trowel your footers.
Notice the remote for the boom for the pump truck around his waist.
Remove all form boards and stakes after the concrete has set up.
It is imperative that you keep your job site clean. Loose wood will tip your wheel
barrows, as will rocks and piles of dirt. All cardboard and straps from the ARXX
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should be thrown away, they will tangle you up and trip you. Most of all clean
the cement off the tools with water immediately. Pile up the boards into a neat
pile and have all the stakes put into buckets. Remember to pick up any and all
screws, getting one stuck in a tire will add to your cost overruns!
Now that you have your footers in place, they should all be square with the proper
elevation. It is a good time to recheck your measurements for peace of mind as
you head into the next step, the foundation.
Figure 15 The ARXX system foundation walls in relation to the bottom course, the sub floor and
the footing. Also of importance are the depictions of the anchor bolts that tie in the first course to
the foundation wall. This shows just how structurally sound the wall is from the footer to the logs.
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FOUNDATION
The ground slope will limit the type of foundation that can be built. If there is to steep of
a slope, there really is no economical way of getting a slab or a crawlspace in there. This
section is set up to explain the ARXX wall system that we use and how we use it. What
is of concern here is the bottom to the foundation and how it relates to the footer, and the
top of the foundation and how it relates to the sub-floor. (Fig. 14)
Foundation types
Too much ground slope may force you to put in full or walk out basement. If
your parcel is relatively flat, meaning that there can be no more of a rise in each
corner of twenty-four inches you can put a crawl space. If you wish to put a slab
on grade, you cannot have a difference of more than eighteen inches at the
corners. This section deals with a crawlspace or full basement.
Basement
Al1codes and regulations apply. A basement can either be full enclosed
or it can be delighted to the outside. There are minor variances in the wall
design. The delighted portion of the basement must have a frost wall.
The exact depth must be checked as per local codes.
Crawl Space
The crawl space is set up using the ARXX wall system. Other than the
lack of a basement, it is set up the same way. Rather than a concrete floor,
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coarse aggregate is used to facilitate the need for any drainage. Make sure
that you create enough room to be able to move around and to install the
HVAC. All local codes and regulations apply.
Slab on Grade
A slab on grade combines the footers and the slab as one unit. An
impermeable “bubble wrap” membrane is laid down between the slab and
the compacted soil. All topsoil must be removed from under the slab so
that biomass is kept to a minimum. A slab ensures a flat floor. Before
you pour the slab for your basement, make sure that your ground is
tamped solid and that all pipes are in place. If the ground is not tamped
solid, your slab will fail. Your slab thickness will be governed by code.
We use a slab of four to five inches depending on the usage of the
basement. For instance, general usage would have a four-inch slab; a
garage floor would have a five-inch slab. A slab on grade combines the
footers and the slab as one unit.
An impermeable “bubble wrap”
membrane is laid down between the slab and the compacted soil. All
topsoil must be removed from under the slab so that biomass is kept to a
minimum. The footers are tied into the slab. The slab is reinforced with
mesh. The slabs footings are 2’ x 2’ and tapers inward and upward from
the inside of the base. A frost wall of 1 ½” blue Dow is used to cover the
wall and to extend 2 feet from the bottom of the base outward.
ARXX Wall System
We recommend the ARXX Wall System. We believe it to be the best system you
can buy. This is a better system that costs about the same walls with the joists
resting on top of wall. Labor and material are about the same. Set up details for
ARXX can be found at www.arxxbuild.com. There is a basic list of items that you
will need to complete an ARXX System.
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Vapor Barrier
A vapor barrier is affixed to the exterior of the ARXX. This can be accomplished
several ways but we recommend two. A Stick-on is the easiest and best, however
it costs the most. Damp proofing with roll on tar is fine in most cases, however it
is messy and you will have to buy special plastic suits and breathing apparatus.
Anchor Bolts
Placements of the anchor bolts are very important and at times can be confusing.
In all reality, there are only several things you need to consider when planning
where to place them. Anchor bolts are threaded on the top, 1 foot long, and set 7
inches deep into the concrete. (Fig. 15) Anchor bolts have a 90-degree L on the
bottom that faces away from the exterior.
Anchor bolt placement checklist:
□ Anchor Bolts are 16 inches from the corners and all the doors.
□ Anchor bolts will be anchored approximately every 5 feet apart.
□ The anchor bolts will not be under the doors.
□ At least 2 anchor bolts are needed per treated plate or log. You
will need to know where you have short logs that will need to have
2 anchors in them.
□ The bolts are placed after the concrete is poured and still wet.
□ Anchor bolts must stick up three inches from top of wall
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Figure 16 Wall anchor bolt assembly.
Knockouts
Knockouts in ARXX can be PVC pipes of any size to create chases and access
through the Foundation walls for:
Plumbing
Mechanical
Vents
Electrical
Joist Pockets
A Joist pocket is a plastic insert that is imbedded into the top of the ARXX wall.
These pockets hold the floor joists in place. The pockets, using ICBO, are
imbedded 3 inches (Fig. 16) into the concrete core of the ARXX. Placed 16” on
centers, the pockets are placed behind the foam. The foam is cut out after
concrete hardens and cures to reveal the joist pockets. Make sure you allow for
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the 1 ½ inches of treated plate, (pocket bottom will be 11 7/8 inches minus 1 ½
inches from the top of the ARXX foam.)
Figure 17 Cross section of a typical wall using the ARXX system. There are several different
concrete form systems.
Concrete pour
Concrete truck will need to get as close to the pour as possible.
Make sure of
access. A pump truck may be necessary due to access restrictions. When you are
ready to pour, do not fill up an entire section at once. Do a few feet of depth at a
time and work your way around the foundation. This allows the concrete to have
a uniform dispersion. It also makes vibrating the concrete a lot easier.
Pre foundation wall concrete pour checklist:
□ Make sure the difference of elevation along your wall and wall
corners is not greater than ¼ of an inch.
□ Make sure your corners are square.
□ Spray foam to seal the cracks and the joints of the wall.
□ Make sure corners and walls are reinforced with braces.
□ Reinforce vertical joints with lathes that are screwed into the
ARXX.
□ Taping of the joints is also recommended to keep everything tight.
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Concrete pour checklist:
□ Use a cement vibrator to vibrate the cement. Too much vibration
will liquefy the concrete and cause leaks and eventual blowouts.
□ Screed the top of the foundation wall.
□ Hand trowel top for best floor treated plate seal.
□ Anchor bolts are now set in before the concrete hardens.
□ Allow 48 hours for cure time.
Backfill
If the foundation is a basement, you will need to backfill the interior for the
concrete pour. Fill and tamp the gravel to the top of the footer. After gravel fill is
added, the ground is then tamped. The ground must be level to allow for a
uniform thickness for the floor slab. After the ground is tamped, all the pipes are
then dug out. This insures that the ground is solid around the pipes. If you were
to tamp after the pipes are in, you would crush the pipes. Fill in the space around
the dug out pipes and lightly tamp them.
Frame and put in floor system before backfill.
Properly replace the soil
stratigraphy, gravel then clays then topsoil. Try not to reuse any clays that are too
plastid. Do not put too much pressure on the walls while tamping. Take your
time when you tamp. Compact the soil, do 6 inches of cover at a time. This will
alleviate overpressure on the foundation walls. Concrete walls can and will bow.
You must achieve maximum compression. A motorized tamper is a must. More
effort and cost will go into your backfilling than it did to remove the soils
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THE HOUSE
Erecting a log house is a relatively simple, cost effective, and fast process when done
correctly. Reading through this manual and understanding each step will help. Each
area is explained clearly with each step outlined. Understand this and you will have a
relatively easy and fun time from start to finish of your house.
Understanding of the layout and the cut sheet is of the utmost importance. If you chose
to ignore this info, or to skip it, your errors will be large and prove costly. Studying your
layout plans will show you where your walls, appliances, doors, etc. will go. Studying of
the cut sheet will tell you where your logs will go.
After studying the layout and the cut sheets, it is time to start doing your sub-floor. For
this you will need your joists, treated plate, and your tongue and grove plywood. Glue
and screws are also needed. It is upon this sub-floor that you will draw the outline of
your house. This drawing shows not only where the logs are to be set, but also where all
the doors and windows will go.
The rest of this section deals with the placement of all of the logs upon the sub floor: the
wall logs, all the posts, the girders, the beams, the floor joists, the purlins, and the gable
ends. Also touched upon are trusses.
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Layout
Again, a well-made layout will save you time and materials. You can determine
or have determined for you the amount of materials that you need. Depending on
the quality of the layout and the experience of the design team, the material cost
divergence is kept to a minimum.
Cut Sheets
The cuts sheets are the instructions on how to assemble the logs in the log home.
When viewing the cut sheet, it must be understood that the cut sheet view is of the
inside looking out. Looking at the wall view of the cut sheet, you are seeing the
interior of that log wall. This gives the logs a left side and a right side.
If you were to be on the outside looking in, the view would be reversed. Do not
get this confused; your cut sheets are viewed from the interior of the home, not
the exterior. If you confuse this, your walls will be built backwards and will not
align with the interior design of the building.
Cut sheets are the dimensioned plans for the logs placements and lengths. All
logs are stacked in accordance to the cut sheet. All window and door openings
are taken from the cut sheet. String lines are drawn on the sub-floor from the
dimensions on the cut sheet. The cut sheet is the heart and soul of the house. It is
the directions for where all the logs go. The cut sheet maximizes the overall
effectiveness of your logs. (Fig. 17)
The placing of the joints is not as simple as it may seem. It can be called an art
form. Walls that are long cannot be made with one log. Several logs may have to
be used. Where one log touches another log on the same course is referred to as a
joint. You do not want to have the joints between two logs on one course line up
to close to the joint in the course above and below. Try to place the joints that
they coincide with an enterior wall if at all possible. Hide joints from the interior
by placing them where a closet or a shower will be. When you cannot hide the
log joints in the enterior, the log lengths on the walls will have at least a bare
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minimum of two feet apart from joints on above and below courses. This will
ensure an even symetrical and beautiful look.
Door and window openings are sized from the rough openings in the door and
window schedule. Try not to get the logs to small between window posts, door
posts, or the corners. six inches is as small as you will want to go. The log will
need space to be fastened, anything smaller may split.
Dimensioning on the cut sheet will show the elevation and the distances between
door posts and window bucks. Also there are dimensions of the rough openings
for the doors and windows. These dimensions that will be used to “draw” the
outline of the structure with “snap” lines on the surface of the sub-floor.
Figure 18 Showing a typical cut sheet with distances to wall and window openings.
Sub-Floor
The sub-floor consists of a construction phase and a planning phase.
The
construction phase is the actual placing of the material on the foundation wall.
The planning phase consists of “snapping” chalk lines to make it possible to
correctly “stack” your house.
The sub-floor of the house is the area that is on top of the foundation and beneath
the interior and exterior walls. It is made up of three different layers, floor joists,
treated plate, and plywood.
The sub-floor is where the all the walls are pre “drawn”. A chalk line is used to
“snap” out where all the walls, doorposts, window posts, and interior posts will
go. With the chalk lines in place, the scene is set for laying out the first course of
logs.
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Figure 19 The Floor Joists and the Sub floor.
Joists
Standard manufactured joists are fine (Fig. 18). We prefer to use an 11
7/8 inch “I” joists because we usually use in-floor heating. Spacing
between joists are sixteen inches between centers. The joists will rest in
the joist pockets that are embedded in the top of the foundation wall.
Floor “I” joist installation checklist:
□ 11 7/8 inch “I” joists.
□ 16 inches between centers.
□ Imbedded 3 inches into the concrete core.
□ Bottom of joist 10 3/8 inches from top of wall.
□ Top of joist will be even with the treated plate.
Treated Plate
Pressure treated plate is used anywhere between concrete and any other
material. Concrete will draw out the moisture from untreated wood and
ruin it. Also treated plate will resist fungus and insects.
Treated two by material generally the width of the log walls are used. This
is placed on top of the foundation walls. The plate will have to have a
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hole drilled in it to allow for the anchor bolt to be accessed. You may
have to cut a notch out of the treated plate to fit the floor joists.
Treated plate installation checklist:
□ Drill a 1-inch hole through the treated plate that corresponds with
the anchor bolt.
□ Place the treated plate.
□ Put a washer and a nut over the anchor bolt over the plate.
□ Screw a nut on to tighten down the plate.
□ Each plate should have at least two anchor bolts in it.
Plywood
¾ inch tongue & groove plywood or ¾ inch tongue & groove OSB is
recommended for the sub-floor.
This will make the sub-floor strong
enough to support you and your equipment.
Cut the sections to fit. Drill out 1-inch holes for the anchor bolts to pass
through. Glue the plywood on to the joists and treated plate. Nail or
screw the plywood to the treated plate and the floor joists after gluing.
Use either 8-penny ring shank or 2 ½ inch deck screws. Screw or nail
every 8 inches in the “field” and 4 inches on the edge.
Keep the surface clean and well swept, you will need to “draw” out the
door and window openings and where the logs lay with snap lines and
chalk
Plywood placement checklist:
□ Cut plywood to proper dimensions.
□ Cut holes for the anchor bolts if needed.
□ Glue plywood sections to both the joists and the treated plate.
□ Secure the plywood to the rest of the sub-floor with either nails or
screws.
□ Keep surface clear for snap lines.
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Flashing
Ten foot long pieces of flashing is usually of a sheet metal, such as
aluminum, painted galvanized steel, or zinc alloy. Do not stain over the
flashing because the metal may react.
Flashing will weatherproof any place that water can penetrate.
Put
flashing underneath the bottom course of logs. Make sure the flashing
will overlap the sub-floor, the treated plate, and the foundation wall.
Flashing will normally be a 3”x3” inch “L”.
Flashing can be set either before the logs are stacked or after. The benefit
of putting it on before is that you get a better seal with the flashing under
the log. Putting it on later will insure that the flashing does not get
damaged in the construction process.
Snap line
Use the cut sheet to determine snap line placement.
Snap with a
permanent black chalk due to weather. Make sure you square up before
you snap out these lines. Line placements are taken from the cut sheets
that are in the layout book.
Snap line checklist:
□ Use black chalk (or concrete dye) it will remain visible longer.
□ Snap out where the inside of the wall will be.
□ Mark out the doorways and label them.
□ Mark out the windows and label them.
□ Mark out interior posts and label them.
□ Snap out interior partition walls.
Make sure the lines will be visible to the interior. When marking out for
doors and windows bring marks past wall snap lines. When you run your
level up for your window posts you will need to see these snap lines. By
doing this you can see your marks after the first course of logs are placed.
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If the lines do not extend at least 6 inches beyond where the logs are
resting, you will not see the marks.
It is strongly recommended to snap out on the floor all interior stud walls.
Snapping out the interior walls helps to eliminate mistakes. Knowing
where your partitions are will help you decide where to put your electrical
outlets when laying out the second course of logs.
Placing the Logs on the Site
Logs are all bundled so the lower courses are on the top and ready for erection.
Place these bundles in order of need around your foundation when you unload the
bunks from the truck. The logs that you need first should be closer to the
foundation. This avoids having to move the logs numerous times to get the
needed logs. Make sure you have room to maneuver.
When moving the logs around to be “stacked”, we use a nine hundred pound (Fig.
Figure 20 A 900 pound hoist. This crane will allow a single person to lift and maneuver the
logs for the home walls.
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19) hoist that will lift logs twenty-five feet into the air. If you rent one of these,
then you need to stack all of your logs as close as possible to the outside of the
log walls so the hoist can easily get the logs.
The hoist is maneuverable and
strong, ideal for stacking the walls and roof purlins of a log home.
Cutting the Logs to length
Two things must be considered when cutting your logs to lengths, character and
location. The character is what the log looks like. You may have to rotate the log
to get the best-looking face showing toward the house interior. The location is
where the log is on the cut sheet; it is from this location that you will get a length.
Each log will have to be cut to the length that is predetermined by the cut sheet.
When cutting the log, measure from the left side of the log to the right.
Remember, the left and right sides of the logs are dictated by the cut sheet with
you standing on the inside of your house looking out.
Stacking Issues, Where You Can Get Out of Level
Now, rather than later is a good time to address certain issues that can happen as
you stack your house. Before you begin to stack, you must either eliminate or
deal with each of these problems.
Errors in your footing elevations.
Errors in your foundation elevations.
Warped treated plate.
Inconsistency in plywood thickness.
Fastening down the logs incorrectly.
Bolt that is not countersunk enough will cause a change in elevation.
Logs left unprotected from the elements can warp. Log homes are very forgiving.
If you do in fact have large errors (i.e. errors greater than ¼ of an inch,) you can
address them by the use of proper Masonite shims.
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Log Walls, the First Course
Find the correct log. Place the logs with respect to the snap lines that have been
“drawn” onto the surface of the sub-floor. You are now ready to drill for the
anchor bolts. (Fig. 20)
Figure 21 The first course of logs attached to the sub floor.
Placing and fastening your first course:
□ Counter sink a 1 ½ inch diameter hole about 2 inches deep in the
log
□ In the center of the same hole, drill a 7/8 inch diameter hole
through the log to go over a 5/8 inch anchor bolt. (Fig. 21)
□ Remove the nuts that are on the anchor bolts that the log is to slide
over. Leave the washers in place.
□ Affix a coupler nut in place of the nut that you have just removed.
□ Screw in a piece of all thread into the coupler nut. The length will
vary depended upon your log size. This will extend your anchor.
□ Place the log over the newly extended anchors.
□ Place a washer and a nut over the anchor and tighten down.
□ Tighten down the nuts as tight as you can within reason. You want
to hear the wood “crackle”, but you do not want to strip the bolt.
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Figure 22 The wall anchor bolt assembly placement and installation.
Log Walls, the Second Course
The second course is where you will place your electrical outlets. The logs must
be routed out for outlet and electrical outlet placement. The electrical outlet
placement is in the Electrical Layout in your Layout Book.
Electrical outlets,
depending on log package, can be routed and drilled at our mill. (Fig. 22)
Placing and fastening your second course:
□ Refer to your layout plans where electrical outlets are located.
□ Make a template for your router. The template dimensions will be
dependent upon your router size.
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□ Router a pocket 3 ¾ inches wide, 2 ½ inches high, and 3 inches
deep into the 2nd course logs where your electrical outlet will go.
□ Lay the 2nd course on top of first course. Do not fasten down yet;
they will need to be removed.
□ Mark where the hole for the electrical wire will go on the 2nd
course. Refer to your electrical layout.
□ Remove the unfastened 2nd course of logs and drill a 1 inch hole
with an auger bit all the way through the log for the electric wire to
pass through.
□ Again, place the 2nd course of logs on the first, and as before, do
not affix
□ Mark on 1st course of logs where your electrical will go in from the
2nd course. These markings need to line up exactly or your holes
will be misaligned and the wire will not go through.
□ Remove the 2nd course.
□ Drill the 1 inch hole with an auger bit for the electric at an angle
through 1st course and through the sub floor. Angle the auger-bit
towards the inside of the house. Insure that you will miss the
treated plate.
□ Clean out your drill holes to remove chips using a piece of rebar.
□ Place 2nd course upon first course, make sure the holes line up, and
fasten down according to a pre-determined pattern with your
fasteners.
Doing the drilling this way will ensure that your holes will line up correctly. This
makes it easy for a licensed electrician to run wires from crawl space or basement
after logs are erected.
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If you are putting a slab on grade, your wiring will be different. You can account
for the difference simply by increasing your angle of the drill hole on the first
course to allow for the wire to come out of the side of the log. The wire can be
tucked into the seam between the treated plate and the log. A trim board and
chink can be used to hide and wires.
Figure 23 Cross section of the electrical wiring in the second course. Also shown is the
drilling through the first course and the sub floor for a chase.
Log Walls, The rest
Before we can stack the logs it is important to take note of the drill pattern for the
logs. Logs are, depending on package, pre-drilled. If not pre-drilled, drill for
bolts every 30 inches.
These bolts range from 12 to 15 inches in length
depending on the log size used. Each course is bolted into the course below it.
Because of this, you will need two different drill patterns per course, a drill
pattern for the butt end and a drill pattern for the pass end.
Drill patterns
Drill patterns are influenced by the size of the logs. This change is
apparent at the corners where the logs cross. The type of crossing that we
do is called butt-and-pass. Log A is butted up against log B, log B
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extends past where log A butts up against it forming a tail. This alternates
from course to course. The wall that had the butt end will on the next
course have the pass end. (Fig. 23)
On the cut sheet, the walls are drawn up from the inside of the structure.
If you were standing inside the building, this is how you would see the
walls and this is how the cut sheets are drawn. All the logs are measured
from left to right. The left side of the log faces the draw knifing area and
the right side of the log faces toward the finishing area. For example,
when a drill pattern is 6 inches from each end, then every 30 inches, the
30 inches is measured from the end of the log, not from 6 inches, and 30
inches after that measurement, etc. Sometimes the log will be too short to
accommodate 30 inches; it may even be too short to accommodate 6
inches from each end. Here you will have to put a drill hole where you
can. You must take care to not align bolts to the bolts in the course below.
On a label, this example would be marked 6, 30, 6. Six inches from the
left, thirty inch increments from the left end, and 6 inches from the right.
The first number is the distance from the left, the second number is the
distance in increments from the left; the third number is the distance from
the right. All distances are in inches.
The drill pattern for the butt-end course of logs is:
□ Mark off six inches from the left end
□ Mark off six inches from the right end
□ Mark of 30 inches from the left end
□ Make marks at every thirty inches till you run out of log
The drill pattern from the pass end has a different set of measurements.
Place the first drill hole from the pass end of the log using these
guidelines:
□ Four inches from the pass end of the log
□ Plus half the width of the log,
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□ Plus 1inch
□ If this were an 8-inch log, the first drill hole would be 4 inches
plus 4 inches plus one inch. This would set the first drill hole at 9
inches from the end
□ Place the next drill holes every 30 inches from the left side of the
log.
Figure 24 Drill pattern and Log Hawgs for the fastening of one course to another.
This will insure a stagger to the bolt pattern from course to course making
the wall as strong as possible.
Stacking
Follow the directions of the cut sheet.
Each log goes in its own
predetermined area. The logs are placed upon each other; this is referred
to as “stacking”. Each row of logs is called a “course”. The cut sheet
shows you how to stack these logs by showing what course and what wall
that the logs go on.
Log Hawg Bolts are a type of fastener that does not require pre-drilling
however pre-drilling works better; the logs will have tendency to become
out of plumb when you fasten them down. When you plumb one side of
the log wall, secure it with a start screw, and then go to other end of the
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log and plumb it. A hand chisel can be used to move it. Logs may shift
when you screw them down so be careful. 8 inch logs do not need to be
predrilled on the “DIY Rustic” package. Make certain you have a correct
amp drill, keep your rpm’s low 450 to 800 rpm max.
Pre-drill the top of the logs every 30 inches.
Bolt the logs down with nothing in between the courses. The logs
do not require anything between them, if something is inserted, it
will misalign the walls.
Bolts must be countersunk into the top of the log.
Do not drill above or below where windows and doors will go.
Use an 8’ level and plumb all logs off the snap lines on the floor. Use a 4’
level to plumb up all window and door openings. Maintain elevation
along the logs. There should be no cause to do this but in case you have
stacking issues, there should be no more than 1/8” variance per course. If
there is any variation when you “shoot a level”, use a Masonite shim to
correct it.
When installing a Masonite shim, place it so that the log bolt will go
through its center. Put an 8-penny nail in the Masonite shim to secure it or
it will spin when bolt is run through. Masonite shims are 1/8 inch thick.
Crossing Corners, Butt and Pass
We recommend a 4-inch overhang because too long of a tail can allow for
moisture and rot problems. Router the edges of the log ends with a 1-inch
router bit.
Plane all 4 sides.
Pass end, place bolt 4 inches plus half the width of the log, plus 1
inch from the end. Place next screw 30 inches from that blot.
Butt end, place a log hog or a spike 6 inches from the end. Place
next screw 30 inches from that bolt.
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Butt joints
A bare minimum of two feet apart is necessary from joints above and
below the course of logs. Router the end of the log with a 1 inch router
bit. Leave a ¾ inch gap between the logs for foam and chinking.
Remember, if this is a butt-end course, a drill hole will have to be put 6
inches from the end. If it’s a pass-end, you will have to use the same
spacing that you determined.
Window Bucks and Window Opening
Window bucks are bolted in after all logs have been stacked.
Normal
installations of windows are resized about 2 inches, depending on size of window
jamb. You can hide your bolt heads behind the jambs. Butt up the log to the
window routering the end of the log with a 1-inch router bit. The log under the
window will not be bolted where the window is until sill log is cut to height (if
needed). The log above the window will have any log hog or spikes in it at the
window location. The top of the window will be the bottom of the log it is in
juxtaposition with, the top of the window will be at the bottom of the log. The
log will act as a header. The log at the bottom of the window will have to be cut
as to fit the window height.
Door Posts and Door Opening
Positioning of the door posts are marked off on the sub-floor with the help of the
cut sheet. Make certain that the distance between the posts is at least two inches
greater than the rough opening of the door. If it is not larger than the door
dimensions, the door will not fit. Consult your door schedule for the rough
opening size before construction.
Butt up wall logs against the doorposts by making a 45-degree cut into each side
of the log wall that butts up against the doorpost. This will allow room for wire.
The wire is run down the side between the doorpost and the log wall. Fasten
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posts into each wall log with 12-inch or 15-inch lag bolts (depending on log size).
Put the bolts in at a 15º angle alternating the angle up and down as you screw the
bolt into a different course.
The door opening may require some minor fitting. In order to fit the rough
opening, your door opening, and thusly your posts need to be at least 2 ½ inches
greater than the door opening. This means that a door that is 6 foot 8 inches tall
will have a rough opening and post height of 6 foot 10 ½ inches.
□ Mark heights inside and outside, left and right from the
underneath,
□ Take back down, snap chalk line on sides,
□ The log above the door does not get drilled or receive any bolts.
□ Remove excess log with skill saw or chainsaw depending on
height.
□ Set newly cut wall log back into place.
Running wire to switches, this is not done till the house is ready to be wired and
before the chinking process. Outlet center is 44 inches from the ground and is
subject to your local codes. (Fig 24)
□ Drill a 1-inch hole into the log connecting the outlet with the log
wall.
□ Run wire from outlet, through hole, and up or down the seam
between the post and the log wall.
□ Run up for outside lighting, or interior lighting.
□ Run down for interior lighting.
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Figure 25 Top view of the electrical going into a door post for switches.
Chinking will hide the wiring. Wire can run down through the sub floor or along
the top of the second course of logs.
Posts
Posts can be set at any time to hold up beams. Fasten in posts with one 12-inch
lag bolt or one 15-inch lag bolt (depending on log size) at a 15º angle into beams,
floor joists, and purlins.
Beams
The beams sit atop the interior posts to provide support to the floor joists and roof
purlins. Interior posts are fastened to the beams as well as any interior posts
resting atop of them.
Floor joists
Floor joists are on four foot centers starting from the center joist. Some
applications may call for the floor joists to have different spacing between
centers, but generally the spacing is four feet. The floor joists should be under the
purlins. Floor joists rest upon one or two “girders”. Second story floor joists
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should be string-lined and shimmed if necessary. String lining the joists ensures
that the tongue and grove that will be placed on top of them will be uniformly
flat. 2”x6” or 2”x8” tongue and groove will then set on the floor joists. It is
recommended that tongue and groove be fastened with 40-penny ring shank nails.
Hammer in two nails per board on each floor joist. This will eliminate squeaks.
Figure 26 Floor joists, posts, beams, and purlins on the second level of a log home.
Tongue and groove, flooring
Before you begin to install the tongue and groove, the surface must be as flat as
possible; the variance cannot be greater than ¼ of an inch on all sides and or
edges. When installing as a floor, the elevations cannot have an allowance
greater than the ¼ inch. What this means, that if you are at the maximum
allowance for both surface before you lay the tongue and grove and then after you
lay the tongue and grove is ½ an inch.
There is an upside and a down side to the T&G. Do not mark up or step on the
down side, this is your ceiling. The boards must be as tight together as possible.
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Use leverage and force the board to the fastened board with a cats-paw or a chisel.
Use 40-penny ring shank nails to fasten down the lumber. “Toe nail” the nails in
at an angle towards you. This will cause the boards to tighten further. Use two
nails per floor joist per piece of tongue and groove, space them evenly between
the board edges and each other.
On the loft floor, the tongue and groove will overlap the top of the wall logs by
three inches. This is to ensure a flawless connection between the floor and the
logs. The second story logs that are above the tongue and groove will have to be
cut into to accommodate the tongue and groove. This means that the bottom of
the first course of the second story will have to be notched out so that it may
overlay the tongue and groove. This makes the tongue and groove extend under
the log walls and allows for a more even floor. After the tongue and groove is all
installed, then you can trim it to length to the specs of your loft. (Fig. 26)
Figure 27 Tongue and groove fastened to a floor joist. Each piece of tongue and groove
tightly interconnects with the next to provide a squeak free highly stable and beautiful floor.
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Top Wall Logs
The top wall log is the top log on the wall that touches the roof. This is always a
pass-end that will have a cantilever that will either be 4 feet or tie into a porch
frame system. The drill pattern will be different in the top wall log than a regular
pass-end log. If you have a 4-foot overhang rather than a 4-inch overhang, plug
in 48 inches rather than 4 inches into the calculation. 48 inches is the length of
your log tail on the top wall due to the overhand to support the roof system.
This log receives a cut along the entire length of it to allow the tongue and groove
to be nailed to it. You need at least a three inch flat on the cut so that the tongue
and groove can have enough surfaces to nail in the 40-penny nails. This flat is cut
at an angle on the top wall log. The depth of this cut will depend on your roof
pitch. Generally the depth of the cut is between 1 ½ to 2 inches. This cut must
have no variation. If it does, your roof will be wavy. This is the most challenging
part for the do it yourself home builder. We cut ours on our mill saw. This cut is
referred to the purlin cut.
Gable Ends
Gable ends are the sides of your house underneath the roof. The gable ends
support the roof purlins and are cut to match the roof pitch. Tongue and groove
will rest on the gable ends. It is important to build the gable ends correctly and
with precision. Several of the ends will be cut for pockets to fit the roof purlins.
Gable end cut checklist:
□ String lines the angles; this angle is your roof pitch.
□ Place the gable end log. Do not fasten the logs down at this point.
□ Snap a line using black chalk that follows the string line.
□ Remove the gable end log,
□ Cut the angle following the snap line.
□ Place the gable end log. Fasten it down.
□ Cut out pockets for the purlins to fit into.
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Allow for “slop”. Slop allows the purlins to be “tweaked” laterally and vertically
to fit. Your margin of allowance should be 1/8 inch. This allowance is the
thickness of the Masonite shims.
When all the gable end logs are in place, grind them all down to match using the
string line as your reference. Make them as level and uniform as you can. There
should be no more than ¼ inch variation or your tongue and groove will not seat
properly and your roof could leak.
Roof Purlins
The roof purlins will receive the same purlin cut that the top wall gets. The
measurements and the procedure will be precisely the same.
Roof purlins are on four foot centers starting from the ridge purlin and ending at
the top wall log. Roof purlins should be directly over the floor joists. This may
Figure 28 Roof purlins that have been string lined and braced to be well within tolerances.
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not be necessary, but it makes placement of the interior posts easier. Roof purlins
should also be string-lined and possibly shimmed to be perfect.
Roof purlin checklist
□ String line purlins.
□ May move purlin and posts laterally to the string line.
□ Keep within 1/8 inch.
□ Take your time.
Attention should be paid to exact measurements on detailed plans and your roof
will be accurate! (Fig, 27)
Overhangs
Our logs can support a four foot overhang, and in some instances a five foot
overhang. Overhangs are very important when dealing with a log home. Not
only do they provide shade, but also they protect the logs from the elements and
most of all, the sun. Wyoming Log Home Mfg Co is known for their large
overhangs and large porches.
Tongue and Groove, Ceiling/Roof
Again, before you begin to install the tongue and groove, the surface must be as
flat as possible; the variance cannot be greater than ¼ inch on all sides and/or
edges. When installing as a floor, the elevations cannot be greater than the ¼ inch
allowances.
There is an upside and a down side to the T&G. Do not mark up or step on the
down side, this is your ceiling. The boards must be as tight together as possible.
Use leverage and force the board to the fastened board with a cats-paw or a chisel.
Use 40-penny ring shank nails to fasten down the lumber. Hammer the nails in at
an angle towards you. This will cause the boards to tighten further. Make sure
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that the nail heads are embedded all the way into the board. Use two nails per
floor joist per piece of tongue and groove.
Trusses
Trusses are used when a span is too great to use a traditional post and beam
structure. In a great room, a truss will eliminate the need to have the post and
beam structure in the way of the floor plan. A truss is also of great use on the
exterior. It will remove the need for posts and open up your viewing area. Not
only are trusses structurally important, they are also very pleasing to look at and
will accent any room or overhang. (Fig.28)
A basic truss to use is the king truss. The king truss consists of two top chords, a
bottom chord, two web members (that are generally set at a 45º angle) and a king
post. 3/8 inch metal plating holds all the members together. The plating is
designed to have 2 inches of relief on each side to allow for wane.
Figure 29 Two king trusses with 3/8" reinforced plating below a tongue and groove ceiling.
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PORCHES
Pilings, posts, beams, rafters, tongue and grove and roofing are all of the items that go
into your porch. We recommend a porch that is ten feet deep. Eight will do, but six is
too narrow.
Porch Post Pilings
The porch has its own foundation, the piles. Piles can be poured at any time
before the porch needs to be made. All of the same guidelines for soil types and
backfilling apply to the piles. (Fig. 29)
Porch post piling checklist
□ Augur a hole two feet wide and three feet deep into the ground.
□ Fill the hole with concrete.
□ Insert a Sona tube at the top and fill with concrete. Make sure that
the Sona tube top is the same elevation as the top of the sub floor.
□ The top of the Sona tube should be flush with the finished grade.
□ Make sure that the elevations of the tops of all of the Sona tube
that are on the same grade are within an inch of each other.
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□ While the concrete is still soft, set an anchor bolt 7 inches into the
top of the Sona tube.
□ Use a trowel to level off the top of the cement on the Sona tubes.
□ Allow 48 hours to cure.
Figure 30 Porch post footing with sona tube and anchor bolt.
It is important to understand that the hole must be augured in. If you dig a hole
that needs to be backfilled, the tamping will cause the porch post footing to move.
The hole must be augured into undisturbed soil if at all possible.
Porch Posts
The height of the posts is determined by measuring the positive or negative
distances from the top of the Sona tube to the top of the sub floor. The pilings
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must be in place and fully cured before this can be done. Use a transit to get an
accurate reading of the different heights; you can be within 1/8 of an inch.
To install the posts, measure the anchor bolt assembly height as it is assembled
and in the concrete. (Fig. 30)
Figure 31 Porch post being anchored to the footing.
Porch post installation checklist:
□ Drill a two inch diameter hole into bottom of post six inches deep.
□ Drill a tap hole for a 5/8” lag bolt.
□ Drill past the tap hole in the post about one inch.
□ Place a moisture barrier between the post and the concrete.
□ Place post over the anchor bolt.
□ Align the “eye” on the anchor bolt with hole in the post.
□ Screw the lag bolt into the tap hole of the post and through the
“eye” of the anchor bolt.
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The lag bolt will tap into this and make the connection even more secure. You
can twist the post to tighten it down or to get the desired side of the log facing in
the direction that you desire.
Porch Beams
The beams are precut or need to be cut with the porch roof pitch. The beams sit
atop the posts; the rafters sit atop the beams. On a wraparound porch, make sure
that the posts are oversized in length. The geometry of the oversized length
depends on the width of the log; an 8”x8” requires less of an oversize than a
12”x12”. This allows a 45-degree cut to be put at all corners to fit the porch
beams together.
Porch Rafters
They are usually 4”x8” or 4”x10” rough-cut timbers. There are four feet of
spacing on centers between rafters. Fifteen inch Log Hawg bolts are used to
attach the rafters to the porch beams. Make certain that on a pre engineered roof
truss system that the rafters lay atop the pre-engineered trusses.
The pre-
engineered trusses are on two foot centers and the rafters are on four foot centers.
Refer to your layout for exact placement and spacing.
Tongue and Groove
Again, before you begin to install the tongue and groove, the surface must be as
flat as possible; the variance cannot be greater than ¼ inch on all sides and/or
edges.
There is an up side and a down side to the T&G. Do not mark up or step on the
down side, this is your ceiling. Rusty or oily nails, dirty hands or gloves will be a
constant source of irritation as you try to keep your boards free of marks.
The boards must be as tight together as possible. Use leverage and force the
board to the fastened board with a cats-paw or a chisel. Use 40-penny ring shank
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nails to fasten down the lumber. “Toe nail” the nails in at an angle towards you.
This will cause the boards to tighten further. Make sure that the nail heads are
embedded all the way into the board. Use two nails per floor joist per piece of
tongue and groove.
Porch Roof
The porch roof consists of 2”x6” or 2”x8” tongue and groove boards, tar paper,
felt or plastic sheeting, and roofing material lying atop of the porch rafters.
Flashing is used to weather-strip the roof around the edges and the contact
between the porch roofs and log walls if applicable.
The felt or plastic sheeting is a vapor barrier material that goes directly above the
tongue and groove. The felt or plastic sheeting is fastened on by galvanized nails
with plastic caps. (Fig. 31)
Figure 32 Porch rafters with tongue and groove.
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The roofing can be either an asphalt shingle or metal. Cedar shake and slate can
also be used but at a greater cost. The roof is strong enough to support slates or
other tiles.
Porch Floor
The porch floor can be made out of several different materials. Generally we
recommend the use of TREX decking. Also the porch floor can be a concrete
slab. The surface of this slab can be stained and stamped for color and texture.
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HOUSE ROOF SYSTEM
Your roof structure gets attached to the tongue and grove. The first layer is your vapor
barrier, and then you place an adhesive to affix the foam panels. We use a six to ten inch
foam panel system by Big Sky R Control. We feel that it is the best for our purposes.
The vapor barrier is a felt or plastic sheeting that goes between the foam panels
and the tongue and groove. This is attached to the specifications of Big Sky R Control.
The roofing over areas that are covered by engineered trusses does not require the
foam panels. Regular batt insulation is affixed or spray foam insulation is applied. Atop
of the pre-engineered trusses, ½ inch or 5/8 inch tongue and groove plywood is affixed.
Atop of the plywood is a vapor barrier of 30lb felt paper or any of the new synthetic
made ones. Atop of this vapor barrier will be the shingles or metal roofing you choose.
Metal roofing is generally used in areas of high snow load. It reduces friction and allows
the snow to slide off of the roof more easily than with asphalt shingles. It is not as time
consuming to put up; however, it is noisy in the rain and hail.
Cedar shake and slate can also be used but at a greater cost. The roof is strong enough to
support slates or other tiles.
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REINFORCEMENT
Reinforcement may be required in windy areas to stop wind upload from separating the
porches and roofs from the house. Metal plating can be used to attach porch posts to
porch beams. Log Hawg bolts are used to attach the rafters to the porch beams.
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FINISHING
Finishing the house consists of the interior and the exterior of the project. There is no real
order in which to do this other than what will be stated as a priority. Generally all of this
takes place when the house is or about to be dried in. Your interior finishing is what you do
to the house after it is dried in. Your walls, windows and doors may or may not be in but
most importantly your roof is on and shingled.
The exterior is basically staining and
chinking. You may also have stonework to place.
INTERIOR
The Finishing work on the interior begins with hanging the windows and the doors and
ends with your budget allowance. A lot of the interior finish can be done over a longer
period of time. Remember, do not start on your finish work till all of your doors and
windows are in.
After the house is dried in, meaning essentially that the walls are up and the roof is on.
You are ready to begin the process of putting in your doors, windows, trim, sanding, and
staining. You can put up your stud walls so you can hang drywall and paint. You can
lay your carpets and floor work so you can put up your trim. If your going to put in a
fireplace that can be done also. Your cupboards and appliances will be installed. All
your electrical outlets, switches, and appliances will also be installed.
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A lot of time and money will be spent on your interior. This is where you need to be
especially careful of your budget. Spending a little more for a better look will cost quite
a lot of money over the long haul. However, it may behoove you to keep in mind resale
value. With that said, remember, unless you are into “flipping” houses, it may not be
wise to build your house solely on resale value. Also, when finishing, think with your
head, not your heart. Years down the road, you can upgrade or add in items such as
custom outlet covers or brass fixtures.
Windows
Install your windows after your homes roof and shingles are on. This will prevent
accidents happening such as breaking the glass and injuries from that broken
glass.
Doors
Install your doors after your homes roof and shingles are on.
Sanding
The interior of your house’s logs must be done before any other finishing steps.
Each interior log should be sanded smooth. Start sanding with 80 grit and end
sanding with a120 grit. Orbital hand sanders are used. Make certain that you use
a respirator for this. Sanding takes a long time and it can be a trying process. Do
not skimp on your sanding, you will have to live with it forever. While the home
is being built, the logs are exposed to weather and sun, and will turn amber color.
(This is why Wyoming Log Home Mfg Co always wraps the logs in a protective
plastic barrier after the milling process.) To bring back the natural light color, the
logs must be sanded.
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Interior Log Wall Coating
Before staining, make certain that all of the particles from the sanding process
have been cleaned up and all the surfaces washed down and dried.
We
recommend one coat of Prelude sealer on the interior as a base layer and two
coats Sure Shine after the initial coat of Prelude is dry. (Prelude does not amber
over time like most other products)
Stud walls
Your stud walls can be put up as you sand. This can alleviate some of the
boredom of sanding. Make sure you have all of the interior partitions snap lined.
This should have been done at the beginning on the sub-floor. If the marks have
worn off, redo them. Stud walls are made up of 2x4 or 2x6 dimensioned lumber.
Each stud is sixteen inches apart from center to center. 2x4’s are used for general
construction and 2x6’s are used to contain plumbing.
Electrical wiring
The electricians will need to see an electrical layout. They will tell you when he
needs to come over to inspect your project to begin with. They will tell you when
you need them to come out to do the electrical work.
HVAC
Ductwork can be run at anytime, but if installed after sanding, it will reduce the
particulates that need to be cleaned.
We are firm believers in floor heating. It is a more efficient and comfortable way
to heat your house. It requires tubing in a gypcrete floor. A central hub with an
“on demand” water heater or boiler is also needed. This is initially a greater cost,
but it is one of the things that will save you money in the long run.
For in floor heating, place your tubing on the sub-floor 1½ inch of gypcrete will
be poured on the top.
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Drywall
Sheetrock comes in 4’x12’ sheets. It is a good idea to keep your interior walls 8
feet high to reduce labor and material costs. Make sure you cut the drywall to fit
the contour of the logs. A textured wall is easier to finish than a smooth wall.
Smooth walls will show any and all flaws during the life of the wall. Chink the
seam between the drywall and the log wall after the wall is painted.
Paint
Paint the walls that are adjacent to the log walls before you chink the seam
between the log wall and the finished interior partition.
Interior Chinking
Chink the interior log joints after sanding and coating. All dust must be removed
for maximum adhesion of the chink. Perma-Chink brand chinking compound is
recommended as the best for any and all uses. If a clear latex product is used on
your logs, you can chink the logs beforehand.
Flooring/Carpeting
Carpet your floors after the logs are coated
Trim and Base Boards
Trim after the walls are coated and the partitions are painted. We use a wane
wood trim that we make at the mill. Trim out around the interior doors and at the
bottoms of the interior partitions.
Fireplace
The fireplace can be built after the house is dried in.
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Appliances
What you want and what you need is the story of appliances. This is a definite
think with your head and not your heart. A six-burner stove may look great, and
you probably can think of what you could cook on it, but is the expense really
worth it? Remember, if you want something out of the budget, you will have to
cut corners elsewhere. An appliance can be replaced with a fancier model years
down the road. Focus on energy efficient model. This is a trade off in price that
you should consider.
Cupboards
Custom built cupboards can and will cost you a lot of money. It is important to
compare several quotes on all the cupboards, counters, countertops, and sinks. It
may be that you will save the most money buying them direct from the factory
chain and installing them yourself.
EXTERIOR
The exterior is fairly straightforward. Coating and chinking, but note: the longer the logs
go uncoated the more the sun can damage them by turning them amber or grey in color.
Chinking can be put off until everything else is done. Your Hydrants, or spigots, and
electrical, such as lights and exterior outlets, should be done as soon as you can.
Coatings
Logs and tongue and groove can all be sprayed at the same time. We use a darker
stain on the exterior; this gives a better UV protection.
Chinking
Perma-Chink brand chinking compound is recommended as the best for any and
all uses. Logs are chinked after…
The roof is on.
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The drywall is up.
The interior is sanded.
The drywall is sanded.
The log walls are stained and/or clear coated.
The drywall is painted.
Figure 33 A typical dark stained wall showing a light colored elastic chink.
Hydrants
These provide water to the outside from the house for the watering of lawns, etc.
They are put in with rough-in plumbing before the sheet rock.
Exterior Electric
The electrician will put in exterior lighting and outlets when he does the interior.
This wiring is done before the sheet rocking.
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UPKEEP
If everything has been done correctly there is very little upkeep. With that said, even with
the porches and large overhang keeping the sun and elements to a minimum, the home will
need some attention from time to time. For a long lasting appearance and to maximize your
log beauty for generations, following these steps will be of great value.
COATING
The coating on your logs will have to be reapplied per makers’ recommendations. The
logs must be kept stained or the sunlight can damage them. Porch roofs will protect your
walls from the harmful rays of the sun. The initial stain should go on a couple of months
after you build it. Depending on what product that you use, it will be anywhere from
four to six years. Your climate will also be a factor, again, consult the manufacturers
application specifications. Different finish will be used for different climates.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
81
PORCH FLOORS
Due to the fact of the porch roofs, porches need minimal care. If a composite material
such as TREXX is used, then the only maintenance will be that of sweeping leaves and
hosing off dirt.
CHINK
The elastic chink may need some upkeep. Pull cracks can develop after the product
shrinks after a year or two. These cracks can be repaired quickly and will look like new.
The manufacturer of the chink sells kits to reapply chink to the damaged portions. Use
the chink as per manufactures specifications.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
82
APPENDICIES
R-values and how they relate to log walls.
Air insulates, log and wood are made out of plant cells. These plant cells when dried capture
air when the moisture content of the wood is lower than the “fiber saturation point”. This
point is around 28 percent saturation.
R-value is not the only way to measure the heating and cooling efficiency of a log wall.
A straight R-value would be about 1-1.5 per inch of wood.
R-Value is not an accurate way to measure thermal mass.
Thermal resistivity (R-Factor) of different softwood species varies, but not significantly.
Generally speaking, the higher the wood density, the lower the thermal resistivity. However,
the greater the density the greater the Thermal Mass.
Log to log interface. Interior and exterior chinking reduces. Fastening the logs together
reduces the air space between the interfaces.
Log corner interface. Spray foam and interior and exterior chinking reduces the leakage.
Structural detail makes a great importance.
According to the National Research Council of Canada, one inch of Northern Pine White
gives resistance of 2.21 (R = 2.21), hence:
o 6” log wall = R-13.26
o 8” log wall = R-17.68
o 10” log wall = R-22.10
o 12” log wall = R-26.52
o 14” log wall = R-30.94
o 18” log wall = R-39.78
o Reference: Technical guide for Milled-log Buildings, report 13142, published by the
Canadian Construction Materials Center National Research Council of Canada
Ottawa (Ontario) Canada K1A 0R6 [3]
R-value for 2x4 fiberglass batt ranges between R-11 and R-15 and for 2x6 the range is R-19
and R-21.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
I
Thermal Mass
Log walls have an attribute called thermal mass. Adobe wall and more specifically water
have thermal mass.
In building design thermal mass describes how the mass of the building provides "resistance"
against temperature fluctuations.
Thermal mass will absorb thermal energy when the surroundings are higher in temperature
than the mass, and give thermal energy back when the surroundings are cooler, without
reaching thermal equilibrium
For example, when outside temperatures are fluctuating throughout the day, a large thermal
mass within the insulated portion of a house can serve to "flatten out" the daily temperature
fluctuations.
Properties that are required for a good thermal mass are materials with a high specific heat
capacity and a high density.
The correct use of thermal mass is dependent upon the prevailing climate in the area.
In a Temperate to cold climate, the thermal mass is warmed passively by the sun or
additionally by internal heating systems during the day. Thermal energy stored in the mass is
then released back into the interior during the night. It is essential that it be used in
conjunction with the standard principles of passive solar design.
Log homes have a moderate R-value however they have a significant thermal mass.
A stick frame wall will have a high R-Value and a low thermal mass.
Thermal resistivity (R-Factor) of different softwood species varies, but not significantly.
Generally speaking, the higher the wood density, the lower the thermal resistivity. However,
the greater the density the greater the Thermal Mass.
Log to log interface. Interior and exterior chinking reduces. Fastening the logs together
reduces the air space between the interfaces.
Log corner interface. Spray foam and interior and exterior chinking reduces the leakage.
Structural detail makes a great importance.
Thermal mass R-Value credits. If a certain R-Value is needed, a thermal mass credit is
applied to the number (a percentage) and the new lower number is used.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
II
U-Value
Log Wall
U-Value is the reciprocal summation of the R-Values of each component in the walls, doors,
windows, and chinking included. With this statement it can be seen that there can be many
variables that would determine a thickness of a wall to get the proper U-Value.
The more the windows and doors on a wall, the thicker that wall will have to be to stay
within U-Value parameters.
Windows and U-Factor
U-Factors.
Low-E coatings on south facing windows. Three basic types of low-E coating. Dark,
medium, and light. These vary to suit your desired U-Factor. The coating tints the window.
U-Factors vary with zones. A northern zone U factor would be 0.30 – 0.32
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
III
TOOLS
Chainsaw
Planer
Hammer
Cat’s-paw
16 lb sledge
Worm drive saw
Perozzi
½” Drill
Auger bits
Router
Crane (rent)
Drawknife
Whirly-gig (for tying down ARXX)
Chink Gun
Trowel
8’ Level
Level
String Line Snap thing with Black chalk
Saws all
Crowbar
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
IV
MATERIALS
BUILDING
½” rebar
5
/8” rebar
5
/8” anchor bolt
5
/8” all thread
5
/8” Coupler
1 ¾” washer
5
/8” porch post anchor bolt
5
/8” all thread
5
/8” Coupler
5
/8” Nut
Mesh for ARXX
Metal or plastic ties for ARXX
Log Hawg or other bolts
Nails
Screws
Fascia
Sofit
Sona Tubes
LUMBER
2x4 for bracing purlins posts and beams
2 x materials for treated plate
2 x materials for forms
Stakes for forms
Pre engineered Trusses (if applicable)
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FINISHING
Chink
Stain
Foam Panels
Decking
Log Siding
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VI
CHECKLISTS
1. Drain Tile supplies needed:
□ 4” Drain Tile.
□ Gravel.
□ Tar paper.
2. The order to laying out your forms is as follows:
□ Set up a stake a properly measured string line.
□ Check your diagonals at the stakes
□ Check your elevations at the top of the stakes
□ Insert the proper planks.
□ Stake the planking every 4 feet to 6 feet (depending on soil).
□ Screw all the stakes to the planking.
□ Reinforce joints with additional stakes.
□ Install bracing OSB or 1x4 bracing straps every six inches.
□ Recheck your diagonals.
□ Recheck and fine tune the elevations to within a ¼ of an inch.
□ Re-screw all the stakes to the planking to make elevation adjustments if needed
3. Tools needed for laying out the forms:
□ Sledge Hammer.
□ String Line.
□ Two 100’ tape measures.
□ Power Drill.
□ Level (laser if possible)
□ Transit
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4. Supplies needed for laying out the forms:
□ Screws.
□ Stakes.
□ Form boards.
□ Pry bar for disassembly.
5. Logistical tasks that you must complete before concrete pour:
□ What time will the cement trucks arrive?
□ How much concrete do you need?
□ How many trucks do you need?
□ If there is more than one truck you will have to stagger their arrival.
□ How long will it take to unload the cement?
□ Weather, will it rain, or snow.
□ Can you get the concrete to all sides of the site?
□ Can you get concrete to the site?
□ Do you need a pump truck? (Fig 11)
□ The pump truck must arrive before the cement trucks.
6. Tools and supplies needed for the concrete for the footings:
□ Wheel Barrow
□ Trowel
□ Shovels
□ Water source
7. Pre pour checklist for the footers:
□ Concrete is the right consistency.
□ The ground beneath where the cement is to be poured is damp.
□ Everyone is paying attention.
□ Trash is out of the way.
□ The forms are reinforced and will not “blow out”.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
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8. Anchor bolt placement checklist:
□ Anchor Bolts are 16 inches from the corners and all the doors.
□ Anchor bolts will be anchored approximately every 5 feet apart.
□ The anchor bolts will not be under the doors.
□ At least 2 anchor bolts are needed per treated plate or log. You will need to know
where you have short logs that will need to have 2 anchors in them.
□ The bolts are placed after the concrete is poured and still wet.
□ Anchor bolts must stick up three inches from top of wall
9. Pre foundation wall concrete pour checklist:
□ Make sure the difference of elevation along your wall and wall corners is not
greater than ¼ of an inch.
□ Make sure your corners are square.
□ Spray foam to seal the cracks and the joints of the wall.
□ Make sure corners and walls are reinforced with braces.
□ Reinforce vertical joints with lathes that are screwed into the ARXX.
□ Taping of the joints is also recommended to keep everything tight.
10. Concrete pour checklist:
□ Use a cement vibrator to vibrate the cement. Too much vibration will liquefy the
concrete and cause leaks and eventual blowouts.
□ Screed the top of the foundation wall.
□ Hand trowel top for best floor treated plate seal.
□ Anchor bolts are now set in before the concrete hardens.
□ Allow 48 hours for cure time.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
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11. Floor “I” joist installation checklist:
□ 11 7/8 inch “I” joists.
□ 16 inches between centers.
□ Imbedded 3 inches into the concrete core.
□ Bottom of joist 10 3/8 inches from top of wall.
□ Top of joist will be even with the treated plate.
12. Treated plate installation checklist:
□ Drill a 1-inch hole through the treated plate that corresponds with the anchor bolt.
□ Place the treated plate.
□ Put a washer and a nut over the anchor bolt over the plate.
□ Screw a nut on to tighten down the plate.
□ Each plate should have at least two anchor bolts in it.
13. Plywood placement checklist:
□ Cut plywood to proper dimensions.
□ Cut holes for the anchor bolts if needed.
□ Glue plywood sections to both the joists and the treated plate.
□ Secure the plywood to the rest of the sub-floor with either nails or screws.
□ Keep surface clear for snap lines.
14. Snap line checklist:
□ Use black chalk (or concrete dye) it will remain visible longer.
□ Snap out where the inside of the wall will be.
□ Mark out the doorways and label them.
□ Mark out the windows and label them.
□ Mark out interior posts and label them.
□ Snap out interior partition walls.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
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15. Placing and fastening your first course:
□ Counter sink a 1 ½ inch diameter hole about 2 inches deep in the log
□ In the center of the same hole, drill a 7/8 inch diameter hole through the log to go
over a 5/8 inch anchor bolt. (Fig. 21)
□ Remove the nuts that are on the anchor bolts that the log is to slide over. Leave
the washers in place.
□ Affix a coupler nut in place of the nut that you have just removed.
□ Screw in a piece of all thread into the coupler nut. The length will vary depended
upon your log size. This will extend your anchor.
□ Place the log over the newly extended anchors.
□ Place a washer and a nut over the anchor and tighten down.
□ Tighten down the nuts as tight as you can within reason. You want to hear the
wood “crackle”, but you do not want to strip the bolt.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
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16. Placing and fastening your second course:
□ Refer to your layout plans where electrical outlets are located.
□ Make a template for your router. The template dimensions will be dependent
upon your router size.
□ Router a pocket 3 ¾ inches wide, 2 ½ inches high, and 3 inches deep into the 2 nd
course logs where your electrical outlet will go.
□ Lay the 2nd course on top of first course. Do not fasten down yet; they will need
to be removed.
□ Mark where the hole for the electrical wire will go on the 2nd course. Refer to
your electrical layout.
□ Remove the unfastened 2nd course of logs and drill a 1 inch hole with an auger bit
all the way through the log for the electric wire to pass through.
□ Again, place the 2nd course of logs on the first, and as before, do not affix
□ Mark on 1st course of logs where your electrical will go in from the 2nd course.
These markings need to line up exactly or your holes will be misaligned and the
wire will not go through.
□ Remove the 2nd course.
□ Drill the 1 inch hole with an auger bit for the electric at an angle through 1st
course and through the sub floor. Angle the auger-bit towards the inside of the
house. Insure that you will miss the treated plate.
□ Clean out your drill holes to remove chips using a piece of rebar.
□ Place 2nd course upon first course, make sure the holes line up, and fasten down
according to a pre-determined pattern with your fasteners.
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17. The drill pattern for the butt-end
□ Mark off six inches from the left end
□ Mark off six inches from the right end
□ Mark of 30 inches from the left end
□ Make marks at every thirty inches till you run out of log
18. The drill pattern from the pass end
□ Four inches from the pass end of the log
□ Plus half the width of the log,
□ Plus 1inch
□ If this were an 8-inch log, the first drill hole would be 4 inches plus 4 inches plus
one inch. This would set the first drill hole at 9 inches from the end
□ Place the next drill holes every 30 inches from the left side of the log.
19. Door fitting checklist
□ Mark heights inside and outside, left and right from the underneath,
□ Take back down, snap chalk line on sides,
□ The log above the door does not get drilled or receive any bolts.
□ Remove excess log with skill saw or chainsaw depending on height.
□ Set newly cut wall log back into place.
20. Door post electrical checklist
□ Drill a 1-inch hole into the log connecting the outlet with the log wall.
□ Run wire from outlet, through hole, and up or down the seam between the post
and the log wall.
□ Run up for outside lighting, or interior lighting.
□ Run down for interior lighting.
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XIII
21. Gable end cut checklist:
□ String lines the angles; this angle is your roof pitch.
□ Place the gable end log. Do not fasten the logs down at this point.
□ Snap a line using black chalk that follows the string line.
□ Remove the gable end log,
□ Cut the angle following the snap line.
□ Place the gable end log. Fasten it down.
□ Cut out pockets for the purlins to fit into.
22. Roof purlin checklist
□ String line purlins.
□ May move purlin and posts laterally to the string line.
□ Keep within 1/8 inch.
□ Take your time.
23. Porch post piling checklist
□ Augur a hole two feet wide and three feet deep into the ground.
□ Fill the hole with concrete.
□ Insert a Sona tube at the top and fill with concrete. Make sure that the Sona tube
top is the same elevation as the top of the sub floor.
□ The top of the Sona tube should be flush with the finished grade.
□ Make sure that the elevations of the tops of all of the Sona tube that are on the
same grade are within an inch of each other.
□ While the concrete is still soft, set an anchor bolt 7 inches into the top of the Sona
tube.
□ Use a trowel to level off the top of the cement on the Sona tubes.
□ Allow 48 hours to cure.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
XIV
24. Porch post installation checklist:
□ Drill a two inch diameter hole into bottom of post six inches deep.
□ Drill a tap hole for a 5/8” lag bolt.
□ Drill past the tap hole in the post about one inch.
□ Place a moisture barrier between the post and the concrete.
□ Place post over the anchor bolt.
□ Align the “eye” on the anchor bolt with hole in the post.
□ Screw the lag bolt into the tap hole of the post and through the “eye” of the
anchor bolt.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
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TABLES
ARXX Block Information [5]
# of Courses
Total Height
1
1'-4
2
2'-9
3
4
4'-2
5'-7"
5
6'-11
6
8'-4
7
8
9'-0
11'-2
3/4"
1/2"
1/4"
3/4"
1/2"
1/4"
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XVI
Log Course Height
10 x 10
8x8
c
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
ft
0
1
2
3
4
5
5
6
7
8
9
10
10
11
12
13
14
15
in
10
8
6
4
2
0
10
8
6
4
2
0
10
8
6
4
2
0
c
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
ft
0
1
2
2
3
4
4
5
6
6
7
8
8
9
10
10
11
12
in
8
4
0
8
4
0
8
4
0
8
4
0
8
4
0
8
4
0
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
XVII
GLOSSARY
Anchor bolt
assembly
The anchor bolt and all its parts. Te all thread, coupler, nut, and
washer.
ARXX
Insulated Concrete Wall System (ICW).
Batter boards
Horizontal boards nailed to corner posts located just outside the
corners of a proposed building to assist in the accurate layout of
foundation and excavation lines.
Bonded Inkjet
Silica-based, chemically bonded porous coatings that are used as
coatings for inkjet image printing. This improves the image fade and
humid fastness properties of the coating.
Bottom chord
Lower horizontal member in a truss.
Bunks
A unit of cut logs strapped and wrapped.
Butt and pass
Logs are not notched or milled in any way. They are in a single
course and do not overlap, and vertical pairs of logs are fastened tight
with steel bolts.
Butt end
The end of the log on the log wall that terminates at the corner on the
side of another log.
Butt joints
The joint between two logs where they are abutted next to each other
on the log wall.
Cement vibrator
In order to minimize any air bubbles, that would weaken the
structure, a vibrator is used to eliminate any air that has been
entrained when the liquid concrete mix is poured around the
ironwork.
Chalk lines
Tool for marking long, straight lines on relatively flat surfaces.
Chinking
Material that is used on the outside and inside of the log/log
interfaces. This material has evolved from straw and mud into an
elastic material.
Cut sheet
The directions for assembling the logs. They are read from the inside
of the house looking out.
Day lighted
When the object mentioned is exposed to the “daylight”.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
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Dimensional
lumber
Lumber that is finished/planed and cut to standardized width and
depth specified in inches.
DIY Rustic
package
A do it yourself log package offered by Wyoming Log Homes Mfg
Co at a reduced price. The package comes as raw linear feet of logs
that are draw knifed and planed.
Door schedule
The pricing, quantity, rough openings, and dimensions of all the
doors in a project, this is made up by the sub-contractor and also
includes the window schedule.
Dried in
This is the step in which the house has its roof on and is now “dry”
inside.
Easement
Non-possessory interest to use real property in possession of another
person for a stated purpose.
Electrical layout
A type of technical drawing, shows information about power,
lighting, and communication for an engineering or architectural
project.
Fasteners
Any hardware that secures an object to another object, e.g. nails,
screws, lag bolts, and Log Hawgs.
Field
The center or middle portions of the sub floor that is not the edge.
Form boards
2 x planking material that makes the forms for concrete to be poured
into for construction.
Gypcrete
Used as a floor underlayment used in construction for fire ratings,
sound reduction, radiant heating, and floor leveling. It is a mixture of
gypsum, Portland cement, and sand.
HVAC
Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning, sometimes referred to as
climate control.
Hydrants
ICBO
King post
Water delivery spigots on the home exterior.
Layout book
A set of plans that are used to build a house.
Laser Level
A laser used to achieve a straight line weather angles or level.
The center vertical member of a truss sits perpendicular the bottom
chord.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
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Landscaping
spikes
Spikes that are over a foot in length that are used to mark lot corners
hold forms amongst other uses.
Log Hawg bolts
Bolts that are used to screw down logs.
Masonite shim
a type of hardboard The long fibers give Masonite a high bending
strength, tensile strength, density and stability.
Moisture barrier
A semi permeable or non permeable membrane that controls the
moisture.
OSB
An engineered wood product formed by layering strands of wood in
specific orientations. In appearance it may have a rough and
variegated surface with the individual strips lying unevenly across
each other.
Paper weight
The basis weight of a paper is the designated fixed weight of 500
sheets, measured in pounds, in that paper's basic sheet size.
It is important to note that the "basic sheet size" is not the same
for all types of paper.
Pass end
The log end that sticks out of the corner of the walls, also referred to
as the tail.
Photovoltaic
Solar cells for energy by converting solar energy (sunlight, including
ultra violet radiation) directly into electricity.
Piles
In this sense a hole drilled into the ground from three to four feet
deep and filled with reinforcing rebar and concrete.
Pre-engineered
truss
Trusses are used in home construction as a pre-fabricated
replacement for roof rafters and ceiling joists (stick-framing). It is
seen as an easier installation and a better solution for supporting
roofs as opposed to the use of dimensional lumber's struts and purlins
as bracing.
Pump truck
Boom pumps are used on most of the larger construction projects as
they are capable of pumping at very high volumes and because of the
labor saving nature of the robotic arm.
Purlins
The beams in a house that support the roof through direct contact.
Purlin cut
The lengthwise cut on a purling that is the same angle of the roof
pitch. The bearing surface of this cut should be at least two inches to
allow for a nailing surface.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
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Roofing Felt
The layer of asphalt saturated paper that goes underneath roofing
shingles in order to ensure that no water leaks into your home.
Screet
A flat board generally a 2 x 4 that is used to level off the tops of
freshly poured concrete that has been placed in footer forms, form
walls, etc.
Slab on grade
A structural engineering practice whereby the concrete slab that is to
serve as the foundation for the structure is formed from a mold set
into the ground.
Slump cone
A cone used to perform a slump test.
Slump test
A test to insure that the concrete is of the correct consistency.
Snap lines
A chalk line that has been snapped onto a surface to create a straight
line.
Snapping
The process of making a snap line.
Soil engineer
Determines and designs the type of foundations, earthworks, and/or
pavement sub grades required for the intended man-made structures
to be built.
Sona tube
Concrete forms that create columns for buildings, entranceways,
structural support, and other commercial and residential structures.
Stacking
Placing a log on top of another.
Start screw
A temporary or permanent screw used to hold material in place while
a bolt is run through it.
String line
A string put in place to achieve a straight line.
Structural
engineer
Analyze, design, plan, and research structural components and
structural systems.
Sump pump
Used to remove water that has accumulated in a pit commonly found
in the home basement.
Surveyor
The services of a licensed land surveyor are generally required for
boundary surveys.
Top chord
Upper diagonal members in a truss.
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Trace paper
Translucent paper.
Transit
Used by the surveyor to measure both horizontal and vertical angles.
Translucent bond Paper that allows light to pass through them only diffusely, used for
paper
making copies.
Treated plate
Lumber treated with a preservative that protects it from being
destroyed by insects, fungus or exposure to moisture. Generally this
is applied through combined vacuum and pressure treatment.
Wane
An imperfection in the wood, beneficial in a log home for character.
Web members
Internal diagonal members in a truss, connecting the top chord and
the bottom chord.
Window schedule The pricing, quantity, rough openings, and dimensions of all the
windows in a project, this is made up by the sub-contractor and also
includes the door schedule.
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
E
ACKNOWLEGMENTS
Bob Szewc
Jason Szewc
Mike Butcher
Gay Hale
Bloedorn Lumber
Sterling at Big Sky R-control
Dave Wills at Wyoming Builders Supply
Dave Philpot at BC Timber
Mikes Electric
Total Comfort
Wyoming Log Home Manufacturing Company Construction Manual 2011 www.wyomingloghomemfg.com
F
REFERENCES
1. A Field Study of the Effect of Wall Mass on the Heating and Cooling Loads of
Residential Buildings (aka Log Home Report). D.D. Burch, W.E. Remmert, D.F.
Krintz and C.S. Barnes, National Beurau of Standards, Washington DC, 1982
2. Wyoming Log Home Estates Spec Home Data. M.D. Veillet, T.L.Tromble, B. Szewc
et all. Ranchester WY, 2008
3. Technical guide for Milled-log Buildings, report 13142, published by the Canadian
Construction Materials Center National Research Council of Canada Ottawa
(Ontario) Canada K1A 0R6
4. “The Energy Performance of Log Homes” prepared Technical Committee of the Log
Homes Council, Building Systems Councils, National Association of Home Builders,
2003
5. ARXX Installation Guide
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NOTES
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