TITLE PAGE PRODUCTION OF SENATOR WEAR USING CASHMERE FABRICS BY CHEGBENE PAUL FAS/ND/19/10020 OSEHENYE SAMUEL FAS/ND/19/10003 EFE UZUAZO MICHAEL FAS/ND/19/10005 A LONG ESSAY SUBMITTED TO THE DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN AND CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY, SCHOOL OF ART AND DESIGN, DELTA STATE POLYTECHNIC, OGWASHI-UKU. IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENT FOR THE AWARD OF NATIONAL DIPLOMA (ND) IN FASHION DESIGN AND CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY. OCTOBER, 2021 i DECLARATION This project is carried out by the following group of students in the Department of Fashion Design and Clothing Technology, School of Arts and Design, Delta State Polytechnic, Ogwashi-Uku. Under the supervision of Mrs. Ugbah B. E. (Head of Department). ________________ CHEGBENE PAUL ____________ DATE ________________ OSEHENYE SAMUEL ____________ DATE ___________________ EFE UZUAZO MICHAEL ____________ DATE ii CERTIFICATION We, hereby certify that this long essay was done by CHEGBENE PAUL, OSEHENYE SAMUEL, EFE UZUAZO MICHAEL, under my supervision and has been approved and accepted in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the Award of National Diploma (ND) in Fashion Design and Clothing Technology, Department of Fashion Design and Clothing Technology, School of Art and Design, Delta State Polytechnic, Ogwashi-uku. ___________________________ MRS. UGBAH, B. E. (Project Supervisor) ____________ DATE ___________________________ MRS. UGBAH, B. E. (HOD, Fashion Design) ____________ DATE iii DEDICATION We dedicated this project to God Almighty. iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENT First, we wish to express our heartfelt gratitude to God Almighty for his love, Kindness, grace and mercies throughout our studies as well as towards our life and stay in Delta State Polytechnic, Ogwashiuku. Our unreserved thanks go to our project supervisor Mrs. Ugbah, B. E for her patience and time taken to go through this write up to a successful completion of this project work. May God Almighty richly bless her abundantly; she is indeed a mentor and a mother to all. Finally, words cannot express our gratitude to our dear parents for their love, care, encouragement, moral and financial support. May God almighty keep them to enjoy the fruit of their labour. v TABLE OF CONTENT Title Page - - - - - - - - - i Declaration - - - - - - - - ii Certification - - - - - - - - iii Dedication - - - - - - - - iv Acknowledgements - - - - - - - v Table of Contents - - - - - - - vi Abstract - - - - - - - viii - - CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION 1.1 Background of the Study - - - - - 1 1.2 Statement of the Problem - - - - - 2 1.3 Objectives of the Study - - - - - 3 1.4 Significance of the Study - - - - - 4 1.5 Scope of the Study - - - - - - 5 1.6 Limitation of the Study - - - - - 5 - - - - - 6 CHAPTER TWO 2.0 Literature Review - 2.1 What is Senator Wears? - - - - - 6 2.2 History of Senator Wears - - - - - 8 2.3 Types of Senator Wears - - - - - 13 vi 2.4 Contemporary Usage of Senator Wears - - 14 CHAPTER THREE: METHODOLOGY 3.1 Research Design - - - - - - 16 3.2 Data Collection - - - - - - - 16 3.3 Operation Breakdown - - - - - - 16 3.4 Illustration of Design for Production of Senator’s Wear 18 3.5 Adaptation Reference - - - - - - - - - 27 - - - - - - - 33 vii ABSTRACT The study examines the production of senator wear using cashmere and plain pattern fabrics as emphasis. The study was conducted in the department of Fashion Design and Clothing Technology, Delta State Polytechnic, Ogwashi-uku. Data qualitative (physical observation) and were collected through quantitative (existing literatures of related studies). Experimental and descriptive research design was adopted to carry out the practical’s aspect of the research work. The research work adopted the international standard procedures for garment construction. The study however displayed final dresses on a fashion model. viii CHAPTER ONE INTRODUCTION 1.1 Background of the Study Production can be defined in general terms as the act of producing something or a thing being produced or a work presented on the screen and over the air. Wikipedia (2010) defined production as an act or process of making something or putting things to work that will yield result. However, Arnold (2014) emphasized that production in fashion has to do with the illustration of the designs and interpreting the designs into block by drafting the body sizes measurement, after which adoption takes place before cutting out the fabrics into pattern pieces together to achieve a full garment. Which comprises of the top and the trousers just like in senator wears. Senator wear is a special kind of men’s wear that has been trending in the past decades, Kingsley (2019) defined senator’s wears as a native shirt that has pleats, buttons with chains as accessories that beautifies known as “ETIBO”. The top with a good trouser to match or a trouser compliment the top. The senator wears became popular in Nigeria when the senators from the Riverine areas made it 1 as their official wear or dress in the legislative chambers to deliberate issues bothering their people or region. Although the styles have been recycled in the fashion scene over and over each circle comes with its own modifications that are different from the previous circles. The dress has not just gained popularity but it has come to stay and is now becoming a house-hold product, literarily the senator wears can be seen as major clothing item in every men’s wardrobe just like a three or two pieces. However, the senator clothing is not used just to create an image or impression for others, it has also helped to establish a sense of identity for the wear, although putting a certain type of clothes can make you feel different. Now both young and old like the senator clothing and there are different styles that has emerged over the past decades. This study is looking at the existing styles with a better view in producing top-notch quality designs that will be suitable for men’s fashions using plain and pattern fabrics. Plain and pattern fabrics: The production of senator wears can be seen in plain and texture fabrics, not just that alone fabrics like stripes, checks, plaids and floral too. All these fabrics are used to create an illusion of an image on a figure which gives a better view of what a senator wear looks like, Creating a style depends solely on the human figure and the fabrics. Although the plain and 2 texture fabrics seems to give the senator wear a better look since the plain fabric can be used for the production of trouser while the texture fabric with a combination of plain can be used to create an effect on the senator top. The same too goes for fabrics like stripes, checks, plaids and floral. 1.2 Statement of the Problem Based on the observation, the senator clothing has one particular style of production over the years, mostly it’s always long, it has pleats or ruffles and sometimes very big plackets with heavy buttons wrapped with chains and it’s loose fit top. This study is going to review the existing styles and to come up with trendy styles that will be suitable for modern men and the use of plain and pattern fabrics will help to create a new style for men, rather than using fabrics like plain, plaids and even check fabrics. The plain and pattern fabric tends to down tone the color of the fabrics that compliments the complexion of the skin of men. 1.3 Objectives of the Study The general aim of this study is to produce senator wears using plain and pattern fabrics, the objective of the study are as follows: i. To illustrate all the styles for the production. ii. To draft the measurement into blocks. 3 iii. To adapt it into different styles. iv. To have a layout marker and ready to cut into fabrics pattern pieces. v. To assemble the fabric pattern pieces together. vi. To display the final garment on a model. 1.4 Significance of the Study The significance of this study is as follows: The study intends to reveal the various styles of the production in the department of fashion and design and clothing technology for the students to see and observe the trendy method of producing senators’ wears (ETIBO). The fashion industries too will not be left out since the senator wears after being produced will be launched out for the fashion followers to have a view of the trendy senator wears. The students of fashion design and clothing technology will benefit from this study as they will have the opportunity to learn and observes the methods and stages of producing senator wear (ETIBO) which will help them in their course of study. And finally, the results of this study will be kept in the archive of the department of fashion design for further researchers who want to embark on such topic or they will want to build on the existing literatures. 4 1.5 Scope of the Study The scope of this study is all about the production of senator (clothing) wear for modern men and the fabrics used were plain and pattern. 1.6 Limitation of the Study The study was confronted with some challenges which affected the project. They are: Finance: the covid-19 affected most salaries earners and that affected us too because we were not given money on time due to the fact that civil servant salaries was delayed. High Cost of Material. This really affected most material, fashion accessories, and this in turn affect the choice and selection of good fabrics because the money within our disposal is not sufficient, and the available ones in the market are very expensive. Time. The time was too short because there were no much literatures and materials online. We have to source for information manually, through interview from persons who lived there and know much about the (Etibo clothing) that we are writing about which is popularly known as Senator wears. 5 CHAPTER TWO 2.0 LITERATURE REVIEW This chapter has to do with the review of related literatures that will aid this study. The chapter has the following sub-heading: i. What are senator wears? ii. History of senator iii. Types of senator wears? iv. Contemporary use of senator wears 2.1 What is Senator Wears? Senator wear is a kind of attire or regalia from the south-south people, precisely Rivers and Bayelsa state. The attire can be seen as a long flowing top with pleats, bibs, ruffles and a big placket with gold or silver buttons wrapped with chains. According to Briggs (2009) stated that the senator wear is popularly called or known as “ETIBO”. That Etibo is a special shirt that is meant for the Ijaws and Ikwerre peoples of both Rivers and Bayelsa state, Etibo is their royal robes which they put on for special occasions. Kingsley (2010) defined the Etibo as a native shirt which is worn for special occasions like wedding ceremony, political meetings and so on. 6 The shirt consists of pleats, small tucks, big or small placket gold or silver button wrapped with chains also, it is a loose-fitting shirt “Etibo” has two types, three-quarter length and full length. West (2009) described the shirt as a special shirt. Also, he said that the shirt signifies the cultural heritage of the Ijaws and the Ikweri people. The shirt has it’s own origin from the two states which is now popular in the country, just like formal shirt which is a household name, Etibo too is equally a house-hold product. Kenneth (2010), buttressed more by adding that Etibo is a special traditional robe for the Ijaws and Ikweri people. Originally, the Etibo is worn on George wrapper, but now it has taken a new dimension in the fashion industry in Nigeria. Any new trend that is launched into the fashion circle, so long the fashion leaders lead the way, after a while it will gain it’s popularity. Today senator wears is virtually becoming a house-hold name and can be seen more in every man’s wardrobe and this has proven that just the way Babariga and Kaftan in the North, Agbada and Danshiki, in the South-West and Isiagu in the South-East and senator which is “Etibo” is for the SouthSouth people which has an identity through clothing. 7 2.2 History of Senator Wears Historically, the senator wears which is known as “Etibo” originated from the South-South region of Nigeria. Precisely from Bayelsa and Rivers state. The attire was their traditional robes worn for special occasions. The senator wears, which is Etibo was usually long and loose-fitting attire with a wrapper and walking stick. Due to the fact that the political scene of Nigeria has opened a new era where legislatives needs to move for motion in the plenary on issues bothering their regions, becomes a major factor to consider, just the way clothing plays a major role in shaping an individual impression or status. Kingsley (2010), Said the senator wears was seen among legislative representing the South-South geo-political region. The Ijaws and the Ikweri’s people made the dress as their official attire in the legislatives chamber that was when it started to gain its popularity. Clothing is a mode or symbol of identification just like when people that put on Babariga, one will know that they are from the Northern region of Nigeria the same goes with the Ishi-agu of the South-East region, likewise Agbada of the South-West region. The former President Goodluck-Ebele Jonathan made it more popular in the country at that time by making it his official attire and with this 8 based on identification, one will know that he represents the SouthSouth region of Nigeria. It is obvious that the kind of information that is communicated by clothing is of a restricted and specialized kind. Clothing signs could not be used to express a desire for a door to be opened or to argue the case for euthanasia. We could use another mode of communication, one better suited to our purpose such as word or gesture even if those words were “worn” displayed on a T-shirt or badge. Our bodies and clothes constitute our physical presence in the world, particularly the social world we live in. They are the means by which our place and our participation in that social world are signified. Clothing like senator wear expresses an individual’s social identity. It is one of the basis conditions of social life that individuals have to be able to recognize each other social identity. They need to know the role or roles each person is playing, the group they belong to, their status within this groups and even their status within the society as a whole. These are innumerable ways that this kind of information is conveyed to an onlooker but senator wears (Etibo) can be an important vehicle for social communications in many situations. There are so many ways in which senator clothing and other various forms of body modification 9 acts as forms of social communication transmitting information about the social identity and activities of the Southern Ijaw people. They tell us about the individual in relation to the community to which he belongs. As we have seen senator clothing or wears and other forms of adornment are used to emphasize social similarities to communicate a common identity. There are many examples of senator clothing being used to suppress individual differences and an illusion to total conformity according to George (2009). History of Plain and Pattern Plain weave is a weave in which every thread alternatively passes over and under the threads of the other system, and in which each thread weaves exactly opposite to the adjoining threads. Plain weave gives the simplest form of interlacing but it is used for more than any other weave. It gives a greater number of intersections per unit space than any other weave and, other factors being equal, will give a stronger fabric. There are many ways of ornamenting and varying the weave are used; e.g by using threads of different color, material, count or twist. Common examples of plain weave fabrics are sheeting, lawn, muslin, chiffon, and so on. Other names for the plain weave are: tabby, calico, taffeta. 10 3 plain weave is popularly called tabby by many weavers. The American Heritage Dictionary describes plain weave as a weave in which the filling threads and the wrap threads interlace alternatively, forming a checkerboard pattern. The diagrams above show plain weave formed by using only two shafts or sheds which are mainly found on a rigid heddle loom or a simple loom with only two shafts. The diagram on the right above is a plain weave structure threaded on four shafts and treadled or used on a dobby, table or electronic loom. The treadles would be shown as they would be tied up in the diagram above (treadles shown in black squares and used in the sequence shown in the treadling area). Note that colour bar; appear above the threading or warp area and to the side of the treadling or weft area. In most computer weaving programs this is how colour is depicted. If the colour area is show in black convention dictates that black indicates warp and white indicates weft but this does not always hold true. Similarly, few programs show numerals in their draw down diagrams but the norm is black squares in both warp and weft. A good program will allow the diagram to be read from top to bottom or vice versa. Although many of the older conventions used in weaving show the top to bottom method, this will not be successful if figures or linear 11 designs are used as they will appear upside down as the weaving progresses. A man standing on his head is rather unusual. While many weavers still thread from right to left (probably because the loom is situated with light coming from the right or because it seems easier to thread heddles from right to left). This is not how most of us read. The weaving industry and most modern weavers look at a diagram reading from left to right. When threading, it does not matter if it is done from the center out to the sides, from left to right or from right to left as long as it appears on the loom as shown in the diagram. Plain weave does not have a preference for direction, but pattern weaving if not symmetrically must be done according to the diagram or it will not be successful. Relationship between the diagram and the actual thread interlacement (note the black squares or vertical bars indicate warp). Warp faced plain weave with pick up areas. When reading old European weaving books, the word Leinwand meaning linen is used to indicate plain weave. Another reference to plain weave is from the Ha-ovufa Technology & Trade Company where, in addition to their Plain and Weave wire, they weave wire called Hollander (Dutch) Weave where the warp wires remain straight while the weft wires are plain weave to lie as close as possible against each other in “linen” weave. 12 All of these plain weave drawdowns could be done on two shafts but the examples show that they can also be done on four or more even numbers of shafts. The tie up in the upper left corner will always have to show over other shaft being lifted for the first weft shot and opposite shafts being lifted for the second weft shot. This is repeated throughout the weaving. The colour bars show the sequence of colours to be used for both the warp and the weft. The numbers on top and beside the bars give the number of threads of each colour to be used Of course. 2.3 Types of Senator Wears Senator clothing comes in two different types, majorly long and short. In recent times the short ones seems to be more fashionable in style rather than the long one, that look more like a traditional robe, most men today, put on the short length due to it’s uniqueness of styles for some, the style has just round neckline with invisible zipper at one side of the drop shoulder, in from with small embroidery or contrasting colours complexion, while that seems sometimes the to compliment styles has the placket persons that is proportionate to the body size of the wearer or figure and sometimes it has plastic buttons to serve as a decorative instead of functional. 13 However, no matter how one wants to design and sew the senator wears clothing it comes out beautifully made depending on the special events that is meant for and it signifies the region where the person is representing. Senator clothing is one type of dress that create an image or impression for others to see how influential you are and it also helps to establish a sense of identity for the wearer. 2.4 Contemporary Usage of Senator Wears The senator clothing can be seen as one of the regional attires worn today in this country. The fact that it speaks volumes of the South- South people it also gives the sense of identity. Most men today that has or put on this type of clothing pay little attention to where it’s originates from and what it signifies. The fashion circle of senator clothing has transformed significantly over the years and is one of the official native dresses in the country today. Ever since it gained its popularity most men wear it to formal occasions, just like the Kaftan in the North. Although, of lately, women too are not left off this noble gesture, they too are partaking in the wearing of senator wear, they too want to enjoy what the men folks are enjoying. The senator clothing has different styles for children, young and the elderly and women too as well, so depending on the creative mind of the designer on what he wants to create and sew. Whatever style 14 that is being created, it only shows that the clothing or dress has come to stay and the fashion circle will continue to re-circle to produce beautifully and interesting styles that will fascinate the fashion industry in Nigeria. 15 CHAPTER THREE METHODOLOGY This chapter is all about the methodology which the study adapts in the course of the research work. The chapter has sub-headings as follows: Research design Data collection Operation breakdown 3.1 Research Design This study is experimented and descriptive. It would be based on innovation studio experiment 3.2 Data Collection The data collection in this study are classified into primary and secondary data. The primary data collection gathered through direct observation and experiment while the secondary data collected through books, journals and internet articles. 3.3 Operation Breakdown Under this production, operational process involved are the illustration, pattern drafting, adaptations laying and cutting, sewing 16 and exhibition. Below are the procedures taken under each operational process. Materials Used Measuring tape Tape Brown paper Making tape Pencil Erasers T-square Set square French curves Push pins Rulers Scissors (paper) Tracing wheel Tool and equipment Cutting shears Office pins Pressing iron 17 Sewing machine (thread) Over locking sewing machine List of Materials Plain and pattern fabrics Pencil Threads Buttons Interfacing Fuse web 3.4 Illustration of Design for Production of Senator’s Wear Illustration is defined according to Hanstech (2019), as the basic transmission of an idea into a creative design, through diagrams and drawings. It is a visual way of explaining different design ideas from the above definition, it can be said that illustration is one of the visual tool used by fashion designers in production of styles. Illustration is the decoration, interpretation or visual explanation of a text, concept or process, design for integration in print and digitally published media such as posters, flyers, magazines, books teaching materials, animation, video games and films. From the above definition, illustrate is majorly used by fashion designers to represent their ideas 18 on paper or computer using digital software such as Adobe Photoshop and illustration. According to Sawa B. (2020) illustration is simply a visual imaginary that is known for interpretation defining, explaining and decorating the words in books, newspaper and online media. Illustration forms the initial face of every style. It is also the realization of an idea into a drawing model or pattern on which actual production of an item can be achieved by a team or an individual. Illustration helps in visualizing ideas, promotes and introduces new trends and also eliminate waste, as fashion designers make sketch of design patterns of cloth such as senator wears to preview and visualize design before the actual clothing. Designers uses medium such as gouache, market, pastel and ink to convey details of garments and the feeling involved by the artist. Before a senator wear can be made, there is need for design innovation to be identified and considered. The overall purpose for design illustration is to make plan for what the designer wish to achieved. 19 Procedure of Drafting Shirt The first stage is the plain empty brown paper The second stage is to rule out the 2 inches at the top line and an inch at the top left-hand corner of the brown paper 20 Thirdly is to square out the chest, waist and seat lines 21 The measurement for the drafting of a shirt which will be used to adapt to the senator’s wear, (Etibo) length: 34, shoulder: 20, chest: 44, waist: 42, seat; 46, sleeve; 9/9 Steps For Back: i. The first step is to add the recommended ease to the horizontal measurements, which is 6 inches. ii. The seat measurement which is the biggest is what will be used in drafting. iii. The seat measurement plus the ease is 53 inches, this will be divided into 2 or half of the measurement will be applied at the top line iv. Again, it will be divided into two, the line in the middle separates the front and back shirt. Although, based on the measurement 111/2 inches will be measured downwards to chest line, while the remaining distance between the chest line and seat line will be divided into two and two inches upward to get the waist line. v. The seat line remains the same. vi. After getting the chest line, the next to do is to get the neck 2 ¾ of an inch is applied at the top line. Then on the same spot, 1½ inches upward, then you curve back to the top line. 22 vii. Half of the shoulder measurement is applied at the top line and the square downward to meet the chest line. viii. From the top line, measure 5 inches downward to get the yoke line and square out to meet the shoulder line. After which ¼ of an inch is extended at the top line, which will be drawn downwards to meet the yoke line ix. ¼ of the chest measurement plus ease is applied at the waist line and mark x. ¼ of the waist measurement is applied at the waist line xi. The same goes for the seat too xii. Then you connect the points together to form the back shirt Front Shirt i. 1 ½ and half inches will be measured downward from the top line. After which it will be squared out. ii. The same 2 ¾ inches is the same that will be applied at the neck in front while 3 inches downwards. iii. 1 ½ inches to get the shoulder slope iv. The same shoulder measurement is applied at the front v. The same chest line measurement is applied to the front 23 vi. The same for the waist, and the seat vii. Connect all the markings to the complete shirt, both front and back inclusive. viii. The sleeve ix. The sleeve is the total circumference of the armhole x. The sleeve length is 25, Bicep is 18, wrist is 13 xi. Half of the total armhole is divided into two and applies at the top line xii. Is further divided again into two. xiii. Measured 3 ½ and half inches from the top line and square it. xiv. Draw the slant line from Apex to where the 3 ½ line is xv. Divide the lines in between and get the middle and mark the first part xvi. Curve the line from the apex to where it will stop, after which, mark all the spots and curve out the sleeve/block out. Trouser The measurement for the trouser is length: 42, waist: 33, seat: 43, waist to knee:23, knee:20, ankle; 18, crutch: 10 ½ 24 25 26 STEPS: i. ¼ of the seat plus ease is what is applied at the top line. ii. Then where it stopped, apply the crutch to get the square. iii. After which the square will be divided into four, ¼ of it is the fork-extension. iv. To get the crease line, ¼ of seat plus ease plus the forkextension divided by two v. Measure downwards 23 inches to get the knee line. vi. Measure the full length of the trouser. vii. Apply half of the knee measurement at the knee, the same goes to the ankle viii. Then connect all the points to get the front trouser and to get the back is to extend with two inches in the knee and ankle, while the fork-extension is the same with half inch ix. The slant of the back line to connect to the center back line. x. Complete the whole trouser and trace the whole patterns place, 3.5 ADAPTATION ADAPTATION 1 The style is long sleeve with a placket and welt pocket in front of the top. The colour is maroon (which is known as ox-blood colour) the trouser is the same plain 27 The second style is the same but different colours, brown was used and floral pieces was attached towards the hemline. ADAPTATION 2 The style has multi-colours in front that gives it a mosaic shape but well pattern, the trouser is sky blue while the second style is mint green with round neck with a combination of ash or grey color while the trouser is plain mint green. 28 29 ADAPTATION 3 The style is the senator top with plain and pattern fabrics, sky blue and navy blue, the combination gives it a better style, the top has the combination of the two colours, while the trouser is sky blue, The second style is almost the same with the first but some alteration were made with the top that make it different from the rest of the various styles. 30 ASSEMBLING PROCESS TOP i. Overlock all the edges and press. ii. Prepared the placket or the bias neck line iii. Stich the front and back together with the yoke exclusive and press open. iv. Prepared the welt pocket very well and seal temporary. v. Attached the zipper at the neck. vi. Attached additional piece that beautifies the top. vii. Attached the sleeves and close the sides. viii. Then press it very well and attach all fasteners to it. TROUSER i. Overlocking all the edges and press. ii. Prepare the side pockets and press. iii. Attached the fly with the zipper. iv. Attach the welt pocket at back of the trouser. v. Stich the trouser both front and back at the outside seams. vi. Attached the waist band and press. vii. Finished their waist band with a prefer sham. viii. And close the inside seam and press both seam lines open. 31 ix. Press the entire trouser and hem. x. And package it well. 32 REFERENCE Ben Arnold (2014). The Cultural Regalia of the Ikweris and Its Significance to Fashion. A Journal; page 19 Published 2014. Benson Kenneth (2010). The Life Style of The Ijaw Nation. A Journal page 35 published 2010. Frank Kingsley (2010). The Ijaw’s Fashion Magazines on Men’s Clothing. Page 50, published 2010. Gregorg Geoge (2009) The Rule of Etibo: The Modern Fashion, Published 2009. John West (2009) The Cultural Heritage of the South-South People. A Journal, Page 14, Published 2009. Retrieved from www.wiripedia (2010) on Production Management. Timipere West (2016) The Significance of Etibo to The South-South People. A Journal, page 25, published 2016. Tom Briggs (2009) The Ikweris Traditional Outfit. A Journal, page 10 published 2009. 33