Journal of Natural Fibers ISSN: 1544-0478 (Print) 1544-046X (Online) Journal homepage: http://www.tandfonline.com/loi/wjnf20 Investigation on Dyeing Performance of Basic and Reactive Dyes Concerning Jute Fiber Dyeing M. A. Rahman Bhuiyan, Abu Shaid, M. M. Bashar & P. Sarkar To cite this article: M. A. Rahman Bhuiyan, Abu Shaid, M. M. Bashar & P. Sarkar (2016) Investigation on Dyeing Performance of Basic and Reactive Dyes Concerning Jute Fiber Dyeing, Journal of Natural Fibers, 13:4, 492-501, DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2015.1069233 To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2015.1069233 Published online: 29 Jul 2016. Submit your article to this journal Article views: 4 View related articles View Crossmark data Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at http://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=wjnf20 Download by: [La Trobe University] Date: 01 August 2016, At: 23:37 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 2016, VOL. 13, NO. 4, 492–501 http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2015.1069233 Investigation on Dyeing Performance of Basic and Reactive Dyes Concerning Jute Fiber Dyeing M. A. Rahman Bhuiyana, Abu Shaida, M. M. Basharb, and P. Sarkarb a Department of Textile Engineering, Dhaka University of Engineering and Technology, Gazipur, Bangladesh; Department of Textile Engineering, Mawlana Bhashani Science and Technology University, Tangail, Bangladesh Downloaded by [La Trobe University] at 23:37 01 August 2016 b ABSTRACT KEYWORDS This paper includes the investigation on the dyeing performance of reactive and basic dyestuff regarding jute fiber and discusses their benefits and shortcomings. Plain woven jute fabric samples of 261 GSM were dyed with 0.5%, 1.0%, and 4.0% shade of basic and reactive dyes. Then the dyeing performance of both dyestuffs was analyzed. It has been found that exhaustion of basic dye is considerably greater than reactive dye, while this exhaustion decreases for basic dye and increases for reactive dye with the increment of respective shade percentages. This phenomenon has also been verified through the absorption curve, i.e. K/S value of fabric dyed with both dyestuffs in three different shade percentages. Again strong covalent bond is formed during the fixation of reactive dye with the cellulose of jute fiber, and at the same time no strong bond was created in case of basic dye. Finally the color fastness properties have been assessed through rubbing and washing. Both the dye classes have shown nearly similar ratings in case of dry rubbing. However, in case of wet rubbing and wash fastness to color change and color staining; the samples dyed with reactive dyes showed superior fastness ratings over the basic dyed samples. Basic dye; cellulosic fiber; depth of shade; dyeing performance; jute fiber; reactive dye 关键词 碱性染料; 纤维素纤维; 色调深度; 染色性能; 黄 麻纤维; 活性染料 摘要 本文考察黄麻纤维的活性染料和碱性染料的染色性能,并讨论了各自的优 缺点。在本研究中,使用 0.5%、1.0% 和 4.0% 色调的碱性燃料和活性染 料对 261 个 GSM 平纹黄麻织物样品进行染色。然后,分析两种染料的染 色性能。研究发现,碱性染料的吸尽比活性染料大得多;而随着各自色调 百分比的增加,碱性染料的吸尽下降,活性染料的吸尽上升。这种现象也 被吸收曲线(即在三个不同色调百分比条件下用这两种染料染色的织物的 K/S值)所证实。研究再次证明,在定影期间活性染料与黄麻纤维的纤维素 能形成强共价键,而在同一时间内使用碱性染料则不会形成强共价键。最 后,本研究通过摩擦和洗涤对色牢度性能进行了评估。这两种染料在干摩 擦条件下表现出大致相同的色牢度。然而,如果考虑涉及到色变和染色的 湿摩擦和洗涤牢度,使用活性染料染色的样品比碱性燃料染色的样品具有 更出色的色牢度。 Introduction Jute is a natural cellulosic fiber obtained from the bark of jute plant. The main chemical constituent of jute fiber is α-cellulose along with hemicelluloses and lignin (Lewin 2006). This fiber is popular due to its bio-degradability, high tensile strength, low extensibility, and better breathability (Bhuiyan et al. 2013; Ghosh et al. 2004). In recent times, due to the improvement of people’s living standards and need for environmental protection, the demand of natural biodegradable and eco-friendly fibers like jute is increasing day by day (Wang et al. 2008). CONTACT M. A. Rahman Bhuiyan arahman@duet.ac.bd Department of Textile Engineering, Dhaka University of Engineering and Technology, Gazipur 1700, Bangladesh. Color versions of one or more of the figures in the article can be found online at www.tandfonline.com/wjnf. © 2016 Taylor & Francis Downloaded by [La Trobe University] at 23:37 01 August 2016 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 493 The coloration of jute fiber is carried out with a wide range of dye stuffs, generally used for cellulosic fibers, such as direct, vat, and reactive dyes, can also be applied on jute fiber. In addition, jute has a strong affinity for basic dyes, which commonly have little or no dyeing capability for cotton or rayon fiber (Lewin 2006). These dyes are attractive as textile dyes from the point of view of the consumer and the designer due to their brilliant shades (Carr 1995). However, the dyeing of jute with basic dye suffers from several shortcomings. The application of basic dye on the jute fiber is performed in slightly acidic medium, while it is well known that acid degrades the cellulose (Gohl and Vilensky 2005). Hence it is more likely that dyeing of jute fiber with basic dye will decrease the fiber strength. Again the achievable color range with basic dye is not as wide as the reactive dye. Moreover the jute fiber dyeing with basic dye is complicated and many of the basic dyes are not fast to acids, alkalis, washing, and particularly to light (Shenai 2000). On the other hand, basic dyeing of jute fiber has an impressive prevalence for excellent dye exhaustion over other cellulosic fiber dyes like reactive dyestuff. Reactive dye is the worldwide acceptable dye for the coloration of cellulosic fibers like cotton, flax, and rayon due to its ease of applicability, cost, brilliancy of color, and high wet fastness properties (Houshyar and Amirshahi 2002). However, in spite of being a cellulosic fiber, jute is, in practice, not dyed with reactive dye. Reactive dyeing of jute is not economical for its high crystallinity and high degree of orientation (Wang et al. 2010) which hinders high color yield. Again the exhaustion of reactive dye is low due to presence of comparatively less amount of cellulose (58–63%) in jute fiber1 than cotton (94%) (Cook 2001). Apart from these, poor dye exhaustion leads to higher dye concentration in dyeing effluent which generates additional environmental hazards. Current study has investigated the dyeing options of jute fiber with both basic and reactive dye considering their pros and cons. At one side, the dyeing of jute fiber with basic dye is economical due to high exhaustion and brilliance of shade. But poor color fastness to washing and rubbing limits its commercial application on jute fiber. On the other hand, reactive dyeing of jute satisfies the color fastness requirements while suffers from the unprofitableness due to insufficient exhaustion and fixation. This paper presents the performance of reactive and basic dye in respect of dye bath exhaustion, depth of shade, fixation of dye with fiber and fastness of color after dyeing with jute fabric. Materials and methods Materials Scoured, bleached 100% plain hessian jute fabric (261 GSM) was used in all the experiments. The dyeing of jute fabric was carried out with Reactive dye (Novacron Red FN2BL) form Swiss Colors Ltd., Bangladesh and Basic dye (Sandocryl Red C-4 G) from Clariant, Bangladesh and used as received. Auxiliary chemicals like Detergent (Imeron PCLF) and Leveling agent (Drimagen E3 R) were collected from Clariant, Bangladesh. Glauber salt (Na2SO4·10H2O), Sodium acetate (CH3COONa), Soda ash (Na2CO3), and Acetic acid (CH3COOH) were brought from Merck, India, and all of them were of analytical grade. ISO standard soap, without optical brightening agent for wash fastness testing of dyed fabrics was collected from Jame’s H. Heal & Co Ltd., UK. For the ease of identification, all the test fabric samples were coded as shown in Table 1. Table 1. Test fabric sample coding. Test fabric sample type Fabric dyed with 0.5% Reactive dye Fabric dyed with 1.0% Reactive dye Fabric dyed with 4.0% Reactive dye Fabric dyed with 0.5% Basic dye Fabric dyed with 1.0% Basic dye Fabric dyed with 4.0% Basic dye Code R1 R2 R3 B1 B2 B3 494 M. A. R. BHUIYAN ET AL. Equipments The dyeing of fabric both with reactive and basic dye was performed in Sandolab Infrared lab dyeing machine from Copower Technology Ltd., Taiwan. The weight of dyes and chemicals during dyeing was measured by digital electronic balance, Model AV-412 from Transcat, USA. The initial and final concentrations of dye in the bath were measured by UV-visible spectrophotometer, Model T60 from PG Instrument UK. The color properties of dyed goods were analyzed by spectrophotometer, Data color-650 from USA. The analysis on formation of chemical bond between dye and jute fiber was carried out by FTIR spectrophotometer, IR Affinity-1, from Shimadzu Corporation, Japan. The fastness properties of dyed jute fabrics i.e. color fastness to washing and rubbing was assessed by wash fastness tester (Gyrowash, Model: 415/8), rubbing fastness tester (Crock meter, Model: 670) from Jame’s H. Heal & Co Ltd., UK. Downloaded by [La Trobe University] at 23:37 01 August 2016 Method Recipe for dyeing Fabric samples were dyed with reactive dye (Novacron Red FN2BL) and basic dye (Sandocryl Red C-4 G) at 0.5%, 1.0%, and 4.0% on the weight of fabric (owf) indicating light, medium, and deep shades, respectively. The weight of the dyes was taken in gram on the weight percentage of fabric; whereas the auxiliary chemicals were measured in gram per liter (g/L) on the basis of total liquor in the dyebath. Recipes for both types of dyes are given in Tables 2 and 3. Dyeing procedure And 3.0 g (±5%) jute fabric samples were dyed with reactive and basic dye in exhaust dyeing method using 250 mL stainless steel pot for 60 min at the temperatures 60°C and 100°C, respectively. After dyeing, both hot and cold wash with soap was performed for reactive dyed fabric. The soaping of basic dyed fabric was carried out with 2 g/L soap at 50ºC temperature for 15 min. The dyeing procedures for both reactive and basic dye are shown in Figures 1 and 2, respectively. Dyeing performance test The exhaustion of the dyes by the jute fibers was measured by UV–visible spectrophotometer. The dye solution of before dyeing was diluted several times and different concentrations were run into the machine and subsequently λmax of the solutions were measured. After that, the absorbance of the Table 2. Recipe for dyeing of jute fabric with reactive dye at different shade percentages. Ingredients Dyes Soda ash Salt Wetting agent Leveling agent M:L* Sample R1 Sample R2 Sample R3 0.5% 8.0 g/L 20.0 g/L 1.0 g/L 1.0 g/L 1:30 1.0% 12.0 g/L 40.0 g/L 1.0 g/L 1.0 g/L 1:30 4.0% 20.0 g/L 60.0 g/L 1.0 g/L 1.0 g/L 1:30 *Material liquor ratio. Table 3. Recipe for dyeing of jute fabric with basic dye at different shade percentages. Ingredients Dyes Sodium acetate Salt Acetic acid as required M:L* *Material liquor ratio. Sample R1 0.5% 0.5 g/L 10.0 g/L To control pH 4.5 1:30 Sample R2 1.0% 0.5 g/L 10.0 g/L To control pH 4.5 1:30 Sample R3 4.0% 0.5 g/L 10.0 g/L To control pH 4.5 1:30 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 495 Downloaded by [La Trobe University] at 23:37 01 August 2016 Figure 1. Dyeing curve of jute fabric with reactive dye. Figure 2. Dyeing curve of jute fabric with basic dye. different sample after dyeing was measured and% Exhaustion was calculated according to the following equation (Broadbent 2001). % Exhaustion ¼ C0 CS 100 C0 (1) where C0 and Cs are the initial and final concentrations of dye in the bath, respectively. The color strength of the dyed jute fabric was measured by Data-color with the setting: illuminant D65, large area view and CIE 10° standard observer. Each sample was folded twice to give an opaque view and color. Then the depth of color was analyzed by measuring the K/S values of dyed samples through Kubelka-Munk equation as follows (Broadbent 2001). K ð1 RÞ2 ¼ (2) S 2R where R = reflectance percentage, K = absorption co-efficient, and S = scattering co-efficient of dyes. This value was derived from the attenuation ratio of light due to absorption and scattering, which was found based on reflectance. FTIR spectra of undyed and dyed jute fiber were taken by transmission mode spectra (20 scans, 4 cm−1 resolution) and measured with potassium bromide (KBr) pellets of finely cut and ground jute fibers to produce disc. Colorfastness to washing was performed according to ISO 105 C03:1989 by wash fastness tester. Dyed fabric sample size was maintained 10 cm × 4 cm and the test was carried out at 50:1 liquor ratio in a 2.0 L wash wheel vessel that was rotated at constant speed 40 ± 2 rpm and at temperature 496 M. A. R. BHUIYAN ET AL. 60ºC. The SDC multifiber DW (Saville 1999) was fixed with the colored fabric to perform color staining test of dyed fabric during washing. The change and staining of color was assessed by comparing the untreated fabric with the treated fabric samples with respect to the ratings of color change and color staining grey scales. Color fastness to rubbing was assessed according to ISO 105 × 12: 2001 by rubbing fastness tester. The dyed specimens were rubbed 10 times each in warp and weft direction by using Crockmeter which has a weighted finger covered with piece of undyed cotton cloth 5 cm × 5 cm. For wet rubbing the cotton cloth was wetted out before being rubbed on the dyed sample. The cotton rubbing cloth was then examined for dye which may have been removed and assessed using the grey scales for staining. Results and discussions Downloaded by [La Trobe University] at 23:37 01 August 2016 Dyebath exhaustion Dye exhaustion is defined as the leaving of a dye particle from the dye bath and its migration to the fiber interior. For a bath of constant volume, this exhaustion can be calculated as the mass of dye taken up by the material divided by the total initial mass of dye in the bath. Figure 3 Exhaustion of dye by fabric samples dyed with reactive and basic dye at different shade percentages. Figure 3 shows the exhaustion percentage of dyes by the jute fiber from the reactive and basic dyebaths. It has been seen that the exhaustion of basic dye is much higher than that of reactive dye. Again, the exhaustion decreases with the increment of shade percentage for basic dye and increases in case of reactive dye. The higher exhaustion of basic dye by the jute fiber is due to its strong affinity for this dye (Lewin 2006). Although no clear evidence have been found yet for the affinity of basic dye to jute fiber, it can be assumed that the presence of lignin in jute fiber offers the additional affinity. The affinity of basic dye to lignin is due to its acidic nature (Meshitsuka et al. 1982) for the presence of phenolic group in the structure of lignin. On the other hand, jute fiber does not absorb reactive dye as much as its basic dye equivalent. It is well established that reactive dye is substantive to cellulose and the percentage of cellulose in jute fiber is much lower than other common cellulosic fibers like cotton and flax (Cook 2001; Lewin 2006). Hence jute fiber cannot absorb as much reactive dye as cotton from a similar dye bath. Figure 3. Exhaustion of dye by fabric samples dyed with reactive and basic dye at different shade percentages. Downloaded by [La Trobe University] at 23:37 01 August 2016 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 497 Figure 4. The depth of shade i.e. K/S value (at λmax = 530 nm) of jute fabric dyed with reactive and basic dye. Depth of shade The depth of color of dyed fabric was analyzed by K/S value. This value numerically represents the nature of the coloring material layer and an easy way to determine a color as a concentration. The color concentration decreases as the value for reflectance increases, and vice versa. The depth of shades, i.e. the K/S values found for all the dyed fabric samples and their absorption with wavelength details are shown in the Figures 4, 5, and 6. The elevated K/S values of basic dyed samples due to higher exhaustion show better depth of shade than fabric dyed with reactive dye of same shade percentage. The K/S value of reactive dyed fabric is about 5.8 at 4% shade whereas it is 16.8 for the fabric dyed with basic dye. The higher K/S value indicates greater dye absorption by the fabric. However, lower fixation of reactive dye by jute fiber is due to the less amount of cellulose in the fiber for the formation of covalent bond with the dye (Shore 1995). Figure 5. Absorption spectra (K/S value vs. wavelength) of jute fabric dyed with basic dye. Downloaded by [La Trobe University] at 23:37 01 August 2016 498 M. A. R. BHUIYAN ET AL. Figure 6. Absorption spectra (K/S value vs. wavelength) of jute fabric dyed with reactive dye. Fixation of dye with fiber The fixation of dye, i.e. formation of chemical bond with fiber was carried out by Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR). This is an analytical technique used to identify mainly organic materials which provides information about the chemical bonds and molecular structure of a material. The FTIR spectra of undyed and dyed jute fabric (both basic and reactive dye) are presented in Figures 7 and 8. From the Figure 7, it has been found that, the spectrum of both undyed and dyed jute fabrics (with basic dye) are alike and show almost similar curve. However, in case of dyed fabric the peaks having strong intensity at 2420.66, 2459.24, 2490.1 cm−1 region indicates the presence of C-N triple bond stretch or S-H stretch which may be present in dye structure. Figure 7 also illustrate that, the change in jute fiber is not significant after dyeing with basic dye. This insignificant change indicates that, very weak bond such as Van der Waals force or few hydrogen bonds are formed between dye and fiber in the interior. No formation of strong bond with jute fiber specifies the feeble fixation of dye in fiber matrix. Again the spectrum of reactive dyed fabric of Figure 8, shows the peaks at 1716.65, 1741.72 cm−1 (functional group region) indicates the presence of carbonyl group and peaks at 1203.58, 1234.44, 1242.16 cm−1 (finger print region) denote the presence of C-O stretch which signify the formation of covalent bond between reactive dye and the cellulose of jute fiber. The development of covalent bond between reactive dye and the cellulose (Shore 1995) of jute fiber indicates strong fixation of dye with fiber. The reactive system of this dye enables it to react with the hydroxyl groups in cellulose and to form covalent bond by nucleophilic addition or substitution reaction (Renfrew 1999). Moreover, the broad peak at 3500–3200 cm−1 of dyed fabric samples (both reactive and basic) is sharper than undyed jute which indicates that the OH groups of cellulose may replace by dye molecule. Color fastness properties of dyed fabric The color fastness to wash and rubbing of the dyed samples were analyzed. Color fastness to wash was assessed by color change and color staining options with respect to medium cellulosic wash JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 499 B3 B2 B1 105 Undyed jute %T 97.5 90 82.5 75 67.5 Downloaded by [La Trobe University] at 23:37 01 August 2016 60 52.5 45 37.5 30 22.5 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1750 1500 1250 1000 750 500 Figure 7. FT-IR transmission spectrum of undyed and dyed jute fabric (with basic dye) taken by KBr pellet. (Saville 1999). Rubbing fastness of dyed fabric samples was evaluated in dry and wet condition for both warp and weft direction. The fastness ratings (washing and rubbing) of dyed samples are furnished in Tables 4 and 5. The fabric dyed with basic dye shows lower fastness ratings than reactive dyed fabric in case of both types of fastness properties. In general, deeper shade shows inferior washing and rubbing fastness than a lighter one on similar type of fabric. Hence, as a general consequence of achieving deeper shade, the basic dyed fabric samples have shown lower fastness ratings in comparison to lighter reactive dyed fabric. Again, the very poor fastness ratings exhibited by basic dye is due to the formation of a very weak bond with the fabric. However, the creation of strong covalent bond of reactive dye with the cellulose of jute fiber (Meshitsuka et al. 1982) demonstrated the very good fastness ratings of reactive dyed fabric. Conclusion The performance of basic and reactive dyes after dyeing with jute fiber has been investigated. The detail study demonstrated that, the exhaustion of basic dye by jute fiber is significantly higher than reactive dye. Again, fabric dyed with basic dye shows higher depth of shade than the equivalently reactive dyed fabric. However, the fixation of basic dye in jute fiber is very weak due to the formation of very weak bond. But strong covalent bond between reactive dye and the cellulose of jute fiber fixed it firmly within the fiber interior. This results in the higher color fastness ratings of reactive dyed jute fabric than the basic dyed fabric. Basic dye can be extensively used for the dyeing of jute 500 M. A. R. BHUIYAN ET AL. R3 R2 R1 Undyed jute 97.5 %T 90 82.5 75 67.5 Downloaded by [La Trobe University] at 23:37 01 August 2016 60 52.5 45 37.5 30 22.5 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1750 1500 1250 1000 750 500 Figure 8. FT-IR transmission spectrum of undyed and dyed jute fabric (with reactive dye) taken by KBr pellet. Table 4. Color fastness to washing (color change and color staining) of jute fabric dyed with reactive and basic dye. Washing fastness Fabric samples R1 R2 R3 B1 B2 B3 Color staining Color change Diacetate 4/5 4/5 4 1/2 1/2 1 4/5 4 4 1/2 1 1 Cotton 4/5 4 3/4 1/2 1/2 1/2 Nylon 4/5 4 4 1/2 1/2 1/2 Polyester 4/5 4/5 4/5 1/2 1/2 1/2 Acrylic 4/5 4/5 4 1/2 1 1 Wool 4/5 4/5 4 1/2 1/2 1/2 Table 5. Color fastness to rubbing (warp and weft direction) of jute fabric dyed with reactive and basic dye. Fabric samples R1 R2 R3 B1 B2 B3 Rubbing fastness (Warp direction) Dry 5 4/5 4/5 4 3/4 3/4 Wet 4/5 4/5 4 2/3 2 1/2 Rubbing fastness (Weft direction) Dry 4/5 4/5 4/5 3/4 3 3 Wet 4/5 4/5 4 2/3 2 1/2 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 501 fiber where cost and brilliancy of color is considered. Again reactive dye is applicable for the dyeing of jute fiber where superior color fastness properties are expected. 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