ASSIGNMENT
On
“Different Types of Seam & Stich with figures and features”
Submitted to:
Ms. Ferdausee Rahman Anannya
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering & Management
Submitted by:
Name: Md Gifari Khan
ID: 191-036-811
Batch: 191
Department Name: Textile Engineering & Management (TEM)
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
December 25, 2021
Classes of seams:
Seam is a method of joining two or more layer of fabrics. Generally using thread to form stitches. I have
also published another article on definition and properties of seam. You should read that article before
read this article. There are hundreds types and classes of seams and these have been classified in six main
classes. But presently, including two more types, seams have been classified in eight classes. Each type of
seam has been discussed with diagram below. The arrangement of fabric ends along the sewing line is
called the seam type.
Seam class-1: Superimposed seam:
It is the most common classes of seams used in garments sewing. This type can be easily made and
placing one end of a fabric on the other end properly and then sewing, these seams are made. Normally
the sewn edge or the edges remain in same direction. For making this type of seam, various types of
stitches are used. This type of seam is used for joining fabrics or edge neatening of fabrics by sewing the
ends of fabric or for both the jobs. The uses of these are very frequent especially, in side of shirts or pants.
Figure-1: Superimposed seam
In figure-1, a number of superimposed seams have been shown, some of these seams are made by sewing
once and some are by twice. For example, French seam, Piped seam etc. if the folding device is used for
folding the ends of fabrics, the seams can be made easily and fairly.
features of Superimposed seam:
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Most commonly used.
This type of seam is formed by correctly placing the ends of the fabric on the other ends of the
fabric & sewn.
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Generally the seam ends are in the same direction.
Different types of stitch are used to form this type of seam.
In figure different types of superimposed seam are shown such as French seam, piped seam & so
on. These types of seam can be made in one step or in two steps.
Seam strength may be changed.
Can be used for joining the fabric & neatening the edge.
Uses: Mostly used in side seem like as shirts & pants.
Seam class-2 (Lapped seam):
The seams under this type are made by at least two fabrics. The two ends of the sewn fabrics along the
seam line, normally stay in reversed ways and one’s end overlaps the other. The most easy of this class,
this means the lap seam is shown in figure-2 (a). This seam is used less for making garments because, the
threads coming out from the free end create problem. In figure-2(b); lap felled seam has been shown
which is made by twine needle sewing machine. The strength of this seam is very strong but the sewing
thread may be damaged due to rubbing. This type of seams are frequently used in making jeans pants.
Figure-2(a): Lapped seam
Figure-2(b): Lapped seam
features of Lapped seam:
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Simplest seam is formed by lapping of the pieces of fabric.
The seam ends of the fabric are in opposite direction & overlapping one ends on other which is
shown in the figure.
Use of this seam is very less because the threads draw off from the fabric edge & create problem.
The seam thread may be damaged due to friction.
Twin needle m/c is used to prepare lap felled seam which is shown in the figure.
Uses: Used for jeans.
Seam class-3 (Bound seam):
At least two fabrics are required for making this type of seam. The end of one fabric is bounded by the
end of the other because of which it is called the bound seam. The fabric which is used in bounding is
normally of different color. A number of various types of bound seam have been shown in figure-. The
most easy seam figure-3 (a) of this type generally is not used in garments making, because threads come
out from the fabric with which bounding is made. Figure-3 (b), bound seam is widely used in garments
making and it is applicable both for functional and decorative works. The use of folder in sewing machine
is required for making of bound seam. More bound seams are there for sewing of which twin needle
sewing machines are required and the under thread is continuously connected with the two needle thread
from the under side of the seam. Generally the bound seam is used in undergarment, underwear, pant,
female dresses, sleeping suits etc.
Figure-3(a): Bound seam
Figure-3(b): Bound seam
features of Bound seam:
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Two fabrics are required.
Here one edge of the fabric is bounded by the other fabric.
There are different types of bound seam are shown in figure.
It does not use for making garments because the thread draw off from the edge of the bounded
fabric.
Mostly used bounded seam is shown in figure & this type of seam is used for functional &
decorative purpose.
Folder must be required to produce bound seam.
H can be used for functional & decorative purpose.
Mostly used for Knit fabric than Woven
Uses: generally used in T-shirts, underwear, pants, ladies wear, slipping suit & so on.
Seam class-4 (Flat seam):
This type of seam is made by joining the ends of two fabrics but the two ends stay side by side this means
the one end does not overlap the other. Sometimes for decorative purpose, seams are made by keeping
gap between the two ends, in figure-4, the example of flat seam has been shown. Generally, flat seam is
made by twin needle machine, where with the help of another covering thread, continuous connection is
made between the threads of the two needles. There is system of automatic cleaning of the two ends of the
fabric by cutting just before the making of the seam. The thickness of this type of seam is comparatively
less and for making garments with knitted fabrics and in undergarments, they are widely used.
Figure-4: Flat seam
features of Flat seam:
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Two or more fabric ends are joined here.
Seam can be made with the gap of the ends of the fabric for decorative purpose.
Generally twin needle sewing m/c is used to produce this type of seam where continuous binding
can be made by covering thread between needle threads.
Seam thickness is comparatively less.
Zigzag stitch may be produced.
Edge should be cleaned before sewing.
Uses: Extensively used in undergarments & in knit wear.
Seam class-5 (Decorative seam):
Formerly this type of seams would called decorative stitching. This type of seam is made and used mainly
for increasing decoration and beauty of garments and for this reason they are called decorative seam. This
type of seam is made by making one or more than one line of side by side lines of stitches within one
layer or more than one layers of fabrics. In figure-5, a number of types of decorative seams have been
shown. For making this seam, multi-needle sewing machine and folder with it are required.
Figure-5: Decorative seam
features of Decorative seam:
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This type of stitch was known by decorative stitching.
This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch lines in one or more layer of
fabric.
Multi needle sewing m/c is used.
It increases the beauty of the fabric.
Uses: Decorative purpose.
Seam class-6 (Edge neatening):
This type of seam is made mainly at the end of the fabric in such a way so that threads of the fabric
cannot come out from the end of the fabric. In this article a number of seams have been shown of which
(Figure-6) can be made most easily and it is made by overlock machine. This is mostly used. The other
seams under this type are made at a time or in multiple times with a single thread or multiple thread
sewing machines. The seams can be made easily by using folders with the machines. For making this type
of seams, various types of stitches are used, which have been mentioned in the images.
Figure-6: Edge neatening seam
features of Edge neatening seam:
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This type seam is used to bind the edge of fabric, so that thread cannot be drawn off.
Various stitches are used in this type of seam.
It can be made by over lock m/c.
Extensively used.
It is easier when folder is used.
Uses: Mostly used in knitted garments & hemming.
Seam class-7 (Applied seam):
This type of seams are largely similar to Lapped seams of class-2, but the component which is joined at
the end of the fabric is extended from the sewing line limited on both sides. This type of seams are mainly
used for joining of additional item at the ends of the fabrics. For example, joining of lace (figure-i),
joining of elastic braid (figure-ii), joining of elastics (figure-iii) etc. Multiple thread sewing machines and
folders are much helpful for making this type of seams.
Figure-7: Applied seam
features of Edge Applied seam:
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Similar to lapped seam (seam class-2), but the joined component is extended limited on both sides
from sewn line.
Used for joining different parts of garments.
Such as, lace, elastic braid, elastic.
Multi needle sewing machine & folder is used to produce this seam. It will be easier this function
is involved.
Seam class-8 (Enclosed seam):
This type of seams are also made mainly by one fabric but the edges of the fabric are sewn by folding
variously. Making of belts and belt loops are performed by this type of seams. The use of folders are very
much helpful for making seams. Seams can be made at a time with the help of twin needle sewing
machines and folders. In figure-8, a number of seams of this category have been shown.
Figure-8: Enclosed seam
features of Enclosed seam:
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Mainly one piece of fabric is used.
Belt & belt loops are made by this seam.
The edge of fabric is sewn by folding in various ways.
Twin needle m/c is used for this seam.
Folder is used for preparing the seam.
Twin needle sewing m/c & folder is used to produce this seam. It will be easier this function is
involved.
Types of stitches:
Every category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch depending on the number of needles,
loppers and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of these configurations is known as stitch
types and they are classified according to their main characteristics. There are about seventy (70) types of
stitches can be seen in common practice but among them 18 to 20 types of stitches are used in garments
manufacturing industries. In tailoring purposes there are only two to three types of stitches are used. All
stitches are classed in six (6) groups which are identified by the first of the three digits:
Stitch types are given below:
Stitch class – 100 (Single thread chain stitch):
Stitches under this class are produced with single thread by inter-looping technique. All the stitches under
this class are unsecured and used for temporary purposes. Starting and finishing end of the stitch under
this class needs bar taking or back stitching to secure the stitches. Most common uses in blind stitching,
hemming, button attaching, button holing, gathering, temporary positioning of garment components, etc.
purposes.
Fig: Stitch type- 100
features of Stitch class – 100:
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One needle thread is used for stitch formation.
Stitches are formed by intralooping.
A thread is passed through the fabric by the needle & loop is prepared which is bound with the
previous loop made by the same needle. In this way row of stitch is made.
Used in lap & flap positioning, temporary joining (because of less secured stitching), positioning,
basting, blind stitching, button holing, button attaching purposes.
If one end of the thread is pulled, then the whole sewing will be opened.
Application: Temporary stitching (e.g. basting) or for blind stitching.
Machine: Single needle chain stitch machine.
Stitch class – 200 (Hand stitch):
Stitches under this class are also produced with single thread but by the use of special type of sewing
machine. Stitch class – 200 can not be produced for longer length sewing. This class of stitches is used
very rarely in the Ready Made Garments (RMG) sector as because they are very expensive to produce.
They are used mainly for coat manufacturing. Stitch type – 209 is shown in diagram which is used in the
lapel area.
Fig: Stitch type- 200
features of Stitch class – 200:
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Its looks like domestic hand stitch.
It is made by special type of m/c; this m/c is called pick stitch sewing m/c.
Special type of needle is used.
Rare is use, limited length of sewing.
Uses: lapel of jacket, coat & expensive clothes.
Stitch type-209 is used for edge of the jacket, shown in the figure.
Stitch class – 300 (Lock stitch):
Stitches under this class are produced by interlacing technique with two threads. The upper thread is
called needle thread and the lower one is called bobbin thread. Stitch type – 301 is shown in diagram
which is extensively used in domestic sewing machine, tailoring sewing machine, RMG sector sewing
machine, for general sewing for attaching pocket, collar, cuff, etc components. Stitches under this class
are naturally secured and shows good frictional resistance property. Its extensibility is about 30%, hence
used extensively in Ready Made Woven Garments products.
Fig: Stitch type- 300
features of Stitch class – 300:
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Two or more sets of threads is used.
Here one set of threads are interlaced with another set of thread & make bond.
One set of thread is called needle thread & another set of thread is called bobbin thread.
Higher strength.
Fine yarn is preferable for this type of stitching.
Both side of this stitch looks same.
More secured stitch then chain stitch.
Abrasion resistance also very good due to the sewing thread in the stitches beds on the fabrics.
Machine: Lock Stitch Machine, Button Hole Machine, Button Attaching Machine.
Stitch class – 400 (Multi thread chain stitch):
Stitch class – 400 is produced by interlacing and interloping technique. The upper thread is called the
needle thread and the lower one is called looper thread. Stitch class – 400 is stronger than stitch class –
300, hence used for joining heavy fabrics, side seam of trouser, etc purposes.
Fig: Stitch type- 400
features of Stitch class – 400:
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Two or more thread is used.
The loop of one set thread is passed through the fabric & bound with another set of thread by
interlacing & interloping.
One set of thread is called needle thread & another set of thread is called looper thread.
It is used for long sewing in the jeans & trouser.
Also this type of stitch is used with over edge stitch.
Machine: Feed of the arm machine, Kansai machine.
Stitch class – 500 (Over edge stitch):
Stitches under this class are produced with one or a group of more threads (one needle thread and two or
more looper thread) and at least threads of one group round the edge of the fabric stop fraying i.e. threads
from the edge of the fabric can not come out. The knife of the machine cuts the edge first producing a
clear edge for seaming. Stitch under this class is sometimes called over locking, but actually it is over
edge stitch. Sometimes it is used for decorative purpose. Extensibility is quite well (may be 300%) and
the width of the stitch is about 3 to 5 mm. Stitch class – 504 is shown in the figure below:
Fig: Stitch type- 504
features of Stitch class – 500:
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This type of stitch is made by two or more sets of thread & is bound by minimum loops of one set
of thread by rotating the fabric edge. As a result thread cannot be drawing off from the fabric
edge.
Before sewing the fabric edge is cleaned by the knife of the m/c which is placed at front of the
needle.
Sometime it is called over locking m/c but it is mainly over edge stitch m/c.
In figure stitch type-504 is shown which is made by a needle thread & two looper threads.
Better extensibility.
Generally stitch width 3-5mm.
It is also used for decorative purpose.
Stitch type-503, 512, 514 also positioned in this category.
Machine: Overlock Machine.
Stitch class – 600 (Covering chain stitch):
Stitches under this class are formed with at least three groups of threads and threads of two groups are
seen in both side of the fabric. Threads of first group are called needle thread and threads of second group
are called top cover threads and threads of third group are called bottom cover thread. This type of stitch
is so complex and sometimes usage of 9 threads can be seen. This type of stitch is used for sewing
underwear, for attaching lace, braid, elastic, etc. It is also used for making cover stitch, decorative stitch
and top stitching. Stitch class – 602 and 606 are shown in figure below:
Fig: Stitch type- 600
features of Stitch class – 600:
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This type of stitch is made by three sets of thread & two sets of threads are seen.
First set of thread is called needle thread & second & third set of thread is called top cover &
bottom cover (looper) thread respectively.
This type of stitch.es is more complicated & Maximum 4threads are used to make stitch.
Stitch type-602 is shown in the figure.
This stitch is known as flat lock stitch.
This type of stitch is used in knitwear & underwear.
It is also used foe decorative purpose.
Stitch type-602 is used for joining the lace, braid, elastic with the garments.
Machine: Flat Lock Machine.