TAI4243 Foundation garments DAY SCHOOL 01 - 13.03.2021 UNIT 1 & UNIT 2 M A H S Hansadhi (B. Des) What is foundation garment ? Foundation garments can mainly be classified in to men‟s, women‟s and children‟s garments Foundation garments are the garments, which are more closely contact to the skin of a human body than other garments. people wear other clothes outer to foundation garments. This class of garments includes devices, which are specifically designed to • • • fit the human body to protect compress, support, restrain (වළක්වන්න) or alter the configuration (විනයාසය)of the body torso or a portion Another term for foundation garments as intimate apparels . Intimate means more close, therefore, the term intimate apparels Men‟s intimate apparels Men’s intimate apparels Upper part Vest Lower part Brief Boxers Socks for feet Vests vests cover our chest, back and abdomen portion of a male body protect our body well against heat and can protect us from cold and wind by providing the required insulation to the human body In addition to protective function, a vest can fulfill aesthetic aspects. A vest can affect the appearance of the garments worn over it skin contact garment Therefore, wearing comfort of a vest is very much important than in the case of a outer wear In a warm climate, vest absorbs sweat and evaporates it away. It prevents wetting outerwear in a cold climates , it prevents loosing of our body heat and keeping our body warm Briefs Briefs are close fitting, knitted undergarments with an elastic waistband, with or without an overlapping fly front This product is introduced by the famous Jockey brand Y-front brief and produced in the mid to late 20th century by many manufacturers in many designs These Briefs are originally inspired by the brief swimsuits worn in the South of France in the 1930s Briefs are used to cover growing area of a male body. It provides support and protection and compresses the components in that area. Boxers Boxers or under drawers are made with an elastic waistband, introduced into wide usage in the mid-20th century. The elastic waistband alleviates the need for button, snap or tie closures. These boxers are normally loose fitted garment. But, it is close to the skin. Thermal wear In cold climates ( in winter), males wear long under trousers, which are completely skin touching garments. It insulates the skin and prevents our lower body part from cold. usually thicker than those products for hot climates. They can also be made out of heat insulating fibers. Women‟s intimate apparels more and more fashionable than those for men The different body parts covered by female foundation garments are breast, abdomen, growing / hip area, legs and feet Women use bra / brassieres to cover breast, corsets and girdles for abdomen, bikini and panties to cover grown / hip area, stockings / thermal wear for legs and socks to cover feet Bra / Brassieres • It serves for protection • To compress • To support and firm the configuration of breast • Some bras have a function of protection against impacts, ex: sport bras • There are numerous styles with different features available in the market. Corsets and girdles • Corset is a rigid garment designed to compress the waist • usually laced at the back, and extending from a bit below the waist to the bust • It is used to compress • Corsets help to retain • Girdle is an elastic garment designed restrain and alter the configuration of the body section below the breast to waist the better configuration in the abdomen area of a female body to shape and smooth a women‟s figure from the waist to thighs Panties • Panties are a one kind of foundation garment, which is used to cover and protect growing area or some times also hip area of a female body • It has an elastic waist band and reinforced, but very smooth edges • Panties are made with different trims such as laces, braids, cords, buttons or other fastenings attached to them. Bikini • When panties are cut low in the front, but likely to have a full back, it is called a Bikini • Bikini is designed as a leisure wear or beachwear • It normally consists of two parts. They are top part and bottom part • Top bikini covers the breast and lower bikini covers growing area of a woman Socks and Stockings • Socks are used to cover our feet and protect from heat and cold climates • Stockings are a foundation garment, which covers our foot and also legs up to thigh • This is specially useful in cold climates • It is normally made in skin colours or with a transparent material not to make any difference with human skin Children ‟s intimate apparels For toddlers, people use very soft, smooth and extremely comfortable foundation garments Those foundation garments are generally not having any significant differences for different sex Mostly, girl infants use pink or red colours and blue or some times yellow colours are used for boy infants Children's wear can be further classified as boy's wear and girls wear. Those are separately based on children's sexuality Session 2 Purpose of Intimate Apparel Functions of Intimate Apparel • people want to modify coverings their appearance by using different body • In the stone age (even today among the primitive South America or Africa people) people did not wearing clothes except for special occasions • The aim of such modification of appearance also can have a hidden objective such as getting the attraction of others • People believed they need some sort of minimum attire to cover some parts of their bodies, which they think as shameful • Protection is a reality. We are clothing to protect our body from unfriendly and harsh atmospheric conditions • Clothing can tell, most of the time, what or who you are? It can give an indication about your social status, occupation, nationality or religion Specific functions of intimate clothing Intimate apparel are worn in intimate contact with the wearer‟s body They are body-fitting garments Sleep wear, swimwear, which also come in intimate contact with the body, are usually visible to outside as we do not wear anything over them. That means, we can find different sub categories of intimate apparel , such as sleepwear and swimwear. Some under garments are used to shape our body by compressing some parts of the body. “Corsets” worn by women is one good example for this. Some under garments are used to retain some body parts in a particular position and shape them. The best example for this type of garment is brassieres. Some undergarments (intimate wear) are used for protection and hygiene, while others are supportive in improving comfort. There are also under garments or intimate wear designed for medical / therapy requirements. Body shaping and Retaining Some intimate apparel are used to shape our body and / or to retain some body parts at particular position Usually, this is done to have an attractive shape. Attractiveness is relative and varies from one individual to the other. Body shaping or retaining garments are mainly used by females Functions of a bra keep female breasts in a certain position. It may also be used to compress the breasts and give them a small appearance Brassieres can also be designed to give a fullness to the breasts All these functions depend on the person, her body shape, the society or the time in which she lives “Braless” look is also a fashion body shaping garment is the corset Corset is used to compress the female body section below the breast up to waist Victorian ladies used this garment to show off tiny waists. It had been a fashion at that time “Girdle” is another example for a garment having the function of compressing and shaping the body area around hips. Ladies who have (or think they have) too wide hips use them to have a smooth or flat shape. Girdle can also be used to retain the position of stockings worn by them. Stockings are then attached to the girdles by straps and buckles. Protection and Comfort Intimate-wear provides us protection from hazardous conditions The most evident form of protection is the protection from cold. In winter season, people wear few layers of clothing to protect our body from cold and wind The underwear designed for such climates are usually made out of good insulating materials Heat insulating materials such as Nylon is used for winter underwear instead of cotton, which is used in warmer climates Underwear designed for sports are also designed to protect from hazardous activities Weightlifter must wear strongly supportive underwear in abdominal area to protect from possible damages to body (e.g. hernia) Underwear can also protect our organs from germs. Undergarments, which protect us from cold also provide us some sort of comfort Under garments worn in warmer weather conditions must be able to provide some sort of cooling This is achieved by products, which are supportive on our perspiration process. That's why we use cotton or microfiber products as under-wear in warmer climates. They can readily absorb our perspiration (sweat). This will help us to keep our outer-clothes dry and we do not feel uncomfortable due to wet-cling New trend in the design of underwear is the seamless interpreted garments. These garments provide extreme comfort, because, they do not have any seams. They also enable us to wear tight body fitting outerwear such as Jeans Aesthetic Aspects and Attraction Nowadays, even under garments are made in attractive colours and with different trims They are not visible to other, the wearer has a feeling of satisfaction Contributes to our self-satisfaction Some types of intimate-wear are not undergarments. The examples are swimwear, sleep-wear stockings, panty hoses etc. Aesthetic aspects of these garments are very important Hygiene and Medical Aspects Intimate-wear is supportive in protecting us from hazardous germs Especially in the case of children, who play a lot in dusty and dirty conditions, a good underwear gives a very good protection Our swimwear or beachwear must be able to protect us from hazardous or undesirable particles found in sea / swimming pools Some types of intimate-wear are specifically designed for medical purposes They are highly engineered garments which exert a defined pressure on a defined part of the body providing therapeutic treatment to different illnesses Requirements of Intimate Apparels Physiological Requirements Heat transfer by convection (සංවහනය), by covering body surface with a lager of insulation (පරිවාරක) Control of absorption of moisture (perspiration) by the material of clothing Affecting moisture transport from body surface to the outer surface clothing and then allowing it to evaporate (වාෂ්පීකරණය) Body fitted intimate apparel knitted fabrics are employed to make such undergarments. Knitted fabrics can be produced to have an open structure making them suitable for hot condition or with a close structure with hot of air entrapped in them (high porosity) making them suitable for cold weather conditions. Undergarments produced out of cotton yarn and with a relative open knitstructure are therefore used in warmer climates. Cotton fibres have very good moisture absorption properties. Sleep-wear Sleep-wear designed for winter season are usually body fitted thick knitted cotton materials. They reduce heat loss, but, readily absorb the sweat when the wearer is sleeping under a thick blanket They allow good moisture absorption, heat transfer and very good ventilation, providing best suitable conditions for such climates Swim and Beach wear made out of fine filaments fabrics, but, with closely woven or warp knitted structures. They allow fast drying, when the wearer comes out of water. In the water, they absorb less water and become saturated (සංතෘප්ත) Such garments are usually made out of dark coloured or printed fabrics to reduce the danger of sun-burns. Present trend is to use finishing agents to reduce absorption of UV-radiation that causes skin cancer. Psychological Requirements of Intimate Apparel different colours or designs or styles is also a psychological requirement Self-satisfaction about what you wear is an important aspect as that of attraction or acceptance by others. This is clearly evident in the selection of undergarments. we tend to use undergarment of attractive colours, with different trims etc. This is mainly to satisfy our ego. SESSION 3 - HISTORY OF MEN’S UNDERWEAR & SESSION 4 - HISTORY IF WOMEN’S UNDERWEAR SELF STUDY Unit II -TYPES OF INTIMATE APPARELS men‟s lower body undergarments - Long underwear trousers - Men's briefs - Men's boxers Upper Body Underwear -Vests Measurements for Underwear Boxer - Waist measurement, body rise measurement, hip measurement and thigh measurement are the necessary measurements to construct briefs and boxers. Brief - the front and back pattern pieces are marked out separately. If the briefs have a front opening, then several separate pattern pieces must be made for the front pattern piece. vests - measured similar to the measurements taken for shirts. However, the allowances added during the pattern construction are different, because under garments are body fitting garments. Required body measurements for underwear M - high chest circumference, just under the armpit N - circumference at fullest part of chest O -"Empire" circumference, 3-4" below fullest chest P - crotch length, from the front waist through the legs to the back waist Q - arm length, from the shoulder tip down over the elbow to the wrist, arm slightly bent R - cervical length of garment, from the cervical down the back to the desired hem length. The man should wear the high heels he will be wearing with the garment. Session 2 - Petticoats Two types of petticoats worn underneath the outer garment. They are full-slips and half-slips Half-slips are commonly known as underskirts Full slips are petticoats worn from top to bottom and they can be as decorative or plain as to the wearer’s desire. A slip is a very helpful .For example, if an unlined wool dress is itching, a slip between the body and the dress can make wearing it bearable. Or, if a sheer skirt is worn, in order the silhouette is not shown through, a slip can be worn. A slip can also smooth the lines of a clingy knit. Full Slips full slips are petticoats that are worn from top to bottom Full slips come in variety of styles. Basically they can be either strapped or strapless. Strapped slips are petticoats that have straps over the shoulders to keep them in place Slimming Slips petticoats that are specialty shapers designed to smooth and control a specific area. Bottom boosters are unique in helping to actually 'lift' the buttocks. available in half-slip styles to trim the body, and in full-slip silhouettes to address the bust-line and midriff areas well Bra Cut Slips Bra cut slips are petticoats that have a bra shape near the breast and have straps over the shoulder to hold them in place Full Slips Separated at Waistline Slips that have definite top and bottom and attached at the waistline fall into this category Pleated Full Slips Pleated full slips have pleats from the hemline or just above it Mini Slips Mini slips are slips that reach just above the knees Princess Line Full Slips Princess line full slips take the shape of the famous princess line shape. They are made of three body panels each in the front and the back Appliquéd Slips Appliquéd slips are slips that have appliqué work incorporated in them Half Slips half-slips are underskirts, which start from the waist up to the required length. Half-slips come in variety of styles Side Slit Half Slips These half-slips have a side slit. Some full-slips too have side slits Tight Fitted Half Slips Tight fitted half slips are styled to fit on to the body very closely. They are suitable to be worn under slim skirts Tapered Half Slip Tapered half-slips are narrower between the waist and hip area and taper out as they go down the hip area Wraparound Half Slip Wraparound half-slips do not have elastic at the waist. The waist size is adjusted with a velcro at waistband. This slip is like an open-ended sarong What is Corset? Session 4 - Corsets Corset is a woman's support under garment, it is boned and close fitting. Corsets are worn mostly by women, to shape and support the body It provides wonderful support to their back and stomachs and gives an excellent posture For the main body of the corset, a stiff fabric like linen or cotton is used to fit and mold the body To provide support for the bust and create a smooth „hourglass‟ shape, boning (thin pieces of whalebone or steel) is sewn into fitted pockets placed lengthwise along the corset, with a single thick bone or busks (small plastic buttons) at the front closure Style Variations in Corsets Corsets under-bust corsets over bust corset tennis corsets, swimming corsets, hip corsets, inflatable bust corsets, electrical corsets, abdominal strengthening corsets, men's corsets, children's corsets Over Bust Corsets Corsets that cover the bust are called over bust corsets Strapped Over Bust Corsets Strapped over bust corsets are corsets that have added straps Under Bust Corsets ● Corsets that are just below the bust are called under bust corsets Back Lacing Under bust Corsets ● Under bust corset with front lacing Buckled under bust corsets These corset styles have buckles added to the center front Waist Clinchers type of under bust corsets below the bust and just over the waist Waist clinchers are a versatile corset that is comfortable for everyday wear Patterns for Corsets - DO SELF STUDY Session 5 Girdles What is a Girdle? A girdle is an elastic garment designed to shape and smooth a woman’s figure from the waist to the thighs Girdle is similar to a corset because both garments are, Designed to control The shape of the figure Differences between corsets and girdles. They are, (1) Girdle is generally lighter than a corset (2) Modern girdles are often made of elastic material, whereas a corset is always made of non stretching fabrics (3) A girdle shapes waist, hips, derriere, and thighs, whereas the corset shapes only the waist and sometimes the hips (4) The corset extends to and sometimes over the bust, whereas a girdle extends from waist downwards Style Variations in Girdles Normally classified as light control, medium control or firm control The difference in these levels of control is usually a reflection of the thickness of the girdle material or the degree to which a girdle is panelled Another way of classifying the girdles are as open bottom girdles, brief style panty girdles and long leg panty girdles Open Bottom Girdles For classic figure control we can use open bottom girdles Normally they have formal affairs with stockings. Therefore, there are 4 or 6 garters at the bottom of the girdle to attach to the stockings This style was very popular in the 1950's High Rise Open Bottom Girdles high rise open bottom girdle with pull-on style/ two high rise open bottom girdles with side zippers Normal Rise Open Bottom Girdles Normal rise open bottom girdles sit on the waistline Normal Rise Open Bottom Skirt Girdles ● The style is similar to a skirt ● This style has a in-built panty ● The panties are usually cotton lined, and secured with a convenient hook 'n' eye closure ● Tummy and rear panels are reinforced for maximum control ● Silicone elastic bottom helps to prevent ride-up during wear Brief Style Panty Girdles Panty girdles provide shaping for the waist, hips, back, and derriere Long Leg Panty Girdles The long leg panty girdle is probably the most effective choice for all around shaping This type of girdles can provide excellent waist and tummy control, while giving a smooth line to hips, derriere and upper thighs as well. Zipper High Rise Long Leg Panty Girdles Long leg panty girdles come in different styles, high rise and normal rise with reference to the waist and mid calf length or mid thigh length, based on the length Pull-on High Rise Long Leg Panty Girdle three styles of pull-on high rise long leg girdles Normal Rise Long Leg Panty Girdles ● Normal rise long leg panty girdles sit on the waistline ● This is also known as a pant liner ● A pant liner is an undergarment that begins at the waist and extends down past the mid-calf ● A pant liner can be pantaloon-like and worn as a slip for unlined pants, or it can be form-fitting to slim and smooth the legs ● It can also be called an under liner Corselette Corselet is also spelled corselette. It is a woman's support undergarment that combines a girdle with a bra Corsolettes can be of brief style or open bottom style Session 6 - Thermal Wear and Stockings Thermal Wear Dressing thermal underwear means dressing in layers that will work to keep the body dry, warm and protected under a variety of conditions The best layering system consists of three layers. Layer one is the long underwear or base layer, layer two is the insulating tops and pants and layer three is the outerwear The base layer or thermal under garments should fit close to the body to absorb moisture most effectively Thermal Underwear for Top According to the neck and sleeve tops are classified into several categories Long sleeved Short sleeved Sleeveless Thermal Underwear for Bottom These type of thermal underwear is worn under the trousers to retain the warm of the body Normally, these garments are knitted to produce stretchable garments two types of underwear for bottom, such as long pants and short pants Miscellaneous Types of Thermal Wear different types of thermal underwear that are used for specific body parts Thermal Bodysuits Knee and Arm Warmers Women's Stockings Stockings, which are also known as hosiery or hose, are coverings for legs and feet socks are evolved into stockings. There were many different ways to wear stockings Stockings can be categorized into several types. This classification is based on the length of the stockings. Thus we have ankle/mid calf length stockings (also known as socks), knee length stockings, thigh length stockings, waist length stockings (also known as pantyhose), and body stockings Socks Socks can be categorized into several sub classes such as anklets, trouser socks, sport socks, boot socks Session 7 Panties and Bikinis fitting, knitted undergarments with an elastic waistband, with or without an overlapping fly front Briefs can be classified according to their length and the shape of the cut as normal length brief, high cut brief and full cut briefs Normal Briefs High-Cut Briefs Full Cut Briefs Thongs Bikinis Bikini is a panty wear style whose waistband rests below the navel, and on the hips Usually bikini has a high-cut leg line The sides can be anything from a string to a thicker side panel Back coverage depends on the style of the bikini. It normally consists of two parts, a top and a bottom. The top bikini covers the breast and the lower bikini covers the groin area of a woman. Bikini is designed as a leisurewear or a beachwear Bikini Tops Bikini tops come in different style variations. Triangle top bikini, strapless bikini tops, sports style, and push up style Triangle Top Bikini Push-Up Bikini Tops Strapless Bikini Tops Sport Tops Full Support Bikini Tops SELF STUDY ABOUT BIKINI BOTTOMS AND PATTERNS ANY INQUIRY PLEASE CONTACT ; TAI4243 Foundation garments course coordinator - M A H S Hansadhi mahan@ou.ac.lk