Educator’s Licence
2010
What is a Seam Allowance?
A seam allowance is the distance between the seam line (where you stitch to join two or more
pieces of fabric) and the cut edge of the fabric.
Click here to learn more about measuring seam allowances in garments.
As a recapitulation from sewing terms and terminologies, understanding pattern markings
and construction markings will highlight the technical terms as used in garment making.
This online video will guide you as how to trace and transfer basic pattern markings onto
your fabric.
When choosing and selecting seams for textile items or garments, the following factors governing
the appropriate choice of seam would need to be considered:
The weight and type of fabric being used; more specifically: is it a lightweight fabric, such as Cotton
Voile, or a heavy weight fabric like Gaberdine or Denim? Obviously, the type of seam finish will be
different.

The garment being made, i.e, is it an undergarment or an outergarment?

The position of the seam in the garment, is it lengthwise ( side seams) or crosswise ( across
the waist)

The shape of seam, is it straight or curved?

Whether the garment is to be dry-cleaned or laundered
(Edinburgh Book of Sewing, 1984)
A.Engutsamy-Dept of Home Economics, MIE
Educator’s Licence
2010
Points to bear in mind when working seams:

The thread chosen must be appropriate for the fabric

The width of the seam (again depending on the type of fabric chosen)

The stitch length, machine tension and appropriate machine needles (for lightweight fabrics,
shorter stitches are used, whereas for thicker fabrics, longer machine stitches are used to
avoid puckering)
To learn more about the factors that qualify for a ‘perfect seam’, the following online PowerPoint
will enable you to get a deeper understanding of seam features and its parameters. A study of the
standard indicators that determine seam quality, like seam stability, abrasion, resistance, elasticity,
and look as well the study of process parameter to control seam quality will provide an overview of
the importance that is given in the technological research for a ‘perfect’ seam. 
Even though the notes are generally geared towards industrial production of textile items, the notes
are quite explicit and provide an overview of how much importance is given to a garment process as
basic and simple as SEAMS are concerned. Further to going through the presentation, one would
realize that seams, being the basic structural element of any garment/textile item CANNOT BE
NEGLECTED!
Further reading on Stitches & Seams Analysis by S. H. Shin, Ph.D.
A.Engutsamy-Dept of Home Economics, MIE
Educator’s Licence
2010
Preparing your samples for the Face to face session:
1. Prepare ten A5 size calico fabrics [ half the size of an A4]
2. On each one measure 2 cm from the raw edge of the fabric and mark the seam line. [DO
NOT USE PENCILS OR PENS!!!]. You may prepare a paper pattern and transfer the line using
dress maker’s carbon paper and tracing wheels, or using tailor tacking or using fabric
markers/pens.
3. Take two pieces of fabrics, Right sides facing:
a. Matching the fitting lines,
b. Pin, tack in position. Remove the pins and
c. Machine stitch on the fitting line (seam line). Leave two ends of threads (abt 15 cm
long) on each side.
d. Remove the tacking stitches and press the seam open.
4. Prepare 4 such samples ( In all you will have 4 seams already stitched)
Raw edge
2 cm
Seam allowance
Fitting
line/Seam
Line
W.S.
A.Engutsamy-Dept of Home Economics, MIE