Repairing & Maintaining the
Home Plumbing System
Instructional Materials Service
Texas A&M University
Introduction
• An individual able to make minor repairs to
the water system will:
Minimize downtime
Save money
Maintain a constant supply of fresh water
• A wise individual owns the necessary tools
and is prepared to make minor repairs.
Plumber’s Toolbox
Additional Plumbing Tools
Plumbing Wrenches
Closet Auger
DWV and Supply Systems
Repairing Faucets & Valves
Replacing the Washer
A faucet that drips when closed or has a
―water hammer‖ when opened has a worn washer.
• Shut water off at valve nearest to faucet
• Disassemble in order:
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Handle
Packing Nut
Packing
Spindle
• Remove screw & worn washer from spindle
• Install new washer in cup
Washerless Faucets
• Utilize a cartridge in place of the valve stem &
washer
• Cartridge: plastic insert with a neoprene Oring
• Replace O-ring by cutting off worn ring and
rolling a new ring in its place
Repairing Water Closets (WCs)
• Modern water closets use about 2 gallons per
flush.
• A leaking toilet wastes enough water in a
year to fill a swimming pool — about 70,000
gallons!
• The flush valve, refill valve, and float ball are
the parts most often replaced.
Fill Valves
Ballcock Valve
Refill Valve
Replacing Flush Valve
• Leaky flush valve is usually caused by a
defective flapper
– A broken trip lever or an improperly adjusted
lift chain can also be the cause
• New flapper valves, trip levers, and lift
chains available at most grocery,
hardware, and plumbing supply stores
Replacing Lift Chain & Flapper Valve
• Cut off the water supply and drain the tank.
• Remove the old flapper valve from the mounting
bracket on the overflow pipe.
• Snap the ―ears‖ of the new flapper onto the pins
of the mounting bracket.
• Adjust the trip chain length.
• Turn on the water and refill the tank.
• Flush water closet to check action and length of
trip chain.
Replacing the Fill Valve
• Fill valves are generally more cost-effective
to replace.
• Be sure that the fill valve you purchase has
an anti-siphon feature.
– Prevents fill valve from pulling water stored in
tank into home water supply
Tank-to-Bowl Washer
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Shut off water supply
Empty tank & bowl
Disconnect water supply line from tank
Disconnect tank from water bowl
Remove seat and cover
Remove bolt covers & bolts holding bowl to flange
Replace washer, gaskets and bowl
Re-install tank and reconnect water supply line
Flush toilet a few times to check for leaks
Install seat & cover
Caulking Tools & Caulk
Repairing Leaks in Pipes
• Small pipe leaks:
– Rubber patch, metal clamp, or sleeve for
emergencies
– Replace pipe as soon as necessary
• A leak at a threaded connection:
– Can often be stopped by unscrewing the
fitting and applying a pipe joint compound
• Large leaks in a pipe:
– Old pipe can be removed and plastic pipe
put in its place
• Not inside buildings
– If near a joint, cut damaged pipe out and
install new pipe with a union
• Leaks at soldered joints:
– Due to vibration or some other reason
– May be re-soldered if accessible
Selecting & Using Pipe
Copper
• Three kinds:
– Type L (standard medium-wall copper pipe)
– Type M (thin-wall copper pipe)
– Type T (thick wall copper pipe)
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Resistant to corrosion
Life expectancy 40 -100 years
Can freeze several times before it will burst
Useful where rigid pipes are difficult to place
May be purchased in 10’, 25’ & 50’ coils
Sizes = ⅛‖ – 1‖
Sweating Copper Tubing
• Use a propane torch for sweating fittings.
• Use a flux for the particular solder.
• Procedure:
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Cut tubing squarely
Remove burrs
Allow ⅜‖ additional length for each fitting
Clean outside area of tubing thoroughly
Clean inside of tubing thoroughly
Test fit all parts for accuracy
Step 1
Sweating the Joint & Fitting
– Apply flux to cleaned portions of tubing
– Check fit again
– Place fitting on tubing, push against shoulder of
fitting, and turn several times to distribute flux
– Heat tubing until flux boils
– Touch solder to seam of joint
– Solder will melt and flow into joint by capillary action
when joint is properly heated
– Remove flame as joint is filled with solder
– Allow joint to cool
– Wipe off excess flux and set joint
Step 2
Simplest Method
Flare Fittings
• Slip flare nut on the copper tubing.
• Remove the burr from the end of the
tubing.
• Wrap the tubing with cloth to prevent
damage and place it in a vise.
• Apply a few drops of oil to the flaring tool.
• Place flaring tool over end of tubing
• Place tubing flush with surface of tool
• Screw the flaring tool into the end of the
tubing to make a flare.
• Remove tool, place flare nut in position.
• Tighten the flare nut on the fitting.
Plastic (PVC) Pipe
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Water and fire resistant
Easily placed, no special tools required
Completely replaced cast iron pipe
Easily punctured
Loses strength under prolonged exposure
Perforated: septic tank & field drainage
Solid: house-to-sewer connections, irrigation
systems, municipal water and sewer lines,
downspout drainage, and more
Plastic
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Mark pipe
Cut to length
Ream burrs
Clean interior surface of fitting & exterior
surface of pipe
– Chemically & mechanically
• Check accuracy of fit
• Apply PVC cement to surfaces
Preparing the Connection
Making the Connection
• Press pipe and fitting firmly together
– Turn pipe 1/4 turn to evenly distribute cement
• Hold for 15 - 20 seconds
• Clean off excess solvent
• Check for accuracy and allow to set before
pressurizing connection
• CAUTION: Be sure adequate ventilation is
available when working with PVC solvent.
Making the Connection
Clearing Clogged Drains
and Traps
Plungers
• Water should be standing in fixture when
using a plunger
• Cover overflow openings to prevent air from
coming in or out
Cleanout Augers
• Flexible cables used to clear obstruction in drains.
• If drain is closed by root growth, use a power auger
• If necessary to use a root saw, drain should be
replaced
Water Pressure
• Breaks up obstructions / forces objects through pipe
• Insert hose well into the pipe
– Use rags to minimize backflow of water
– Jet nozzles can increase the effectiveness
• A ―clog remover‖ can break up obstructions in pipes
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Placed on end of hose
Insert hose into pipe until the obstruction is reached
Turn water on
Bladder swells & seals off the pipe
Valve opens and forces a strong jet of water into clog
Clog Remover
Removing the P-trap
• Necessary to unclog some drains
• Use a bucket to catch water overflow
• Make certain washers are firm and tight to
prevent leaking
Chemical Cleaners
• For loosening grease, clogs, and soap
• Don’t use in pipes that are completely stopped
up
• Must directly contact the stoppage to be
effective
• Do not allow to contact porcelain finish
• Only CuSO3 or NaOH based drain chemicals
• Flush pipes with cold water after use
• Follow label directions
Traps & Cleaners
Sewage Disposal System
• Develop plans for sewage disposal system at
the same time as the water system.
• Residential DWV systems operate on gravity.
• Fall in drain and waste lines is very important.
– Fall of ⅛‖ to ½‖ per foot of run is adequate in most
situations
• Three stages for sewage to become
harmless:
– Sedimentation: solids separate by weight
from liquids
– Decomposition: by aerobic and anaerobic
bacteria
– Purification: liquid is aerated through soil in
disposal field
Most common, least expensive method of
rural sewage disposal is a septic tank with
an conventional drain field system
– May not be possible in some areas
• Heavy, impervious soil or a high water table
will prevent use of septic tank
• Spray systems are used if a percolation test
determines they will function properly
– After installation, no costs other than periodic
pumping to remove sludge
Line from House to Tank
• Length determined by:
– Slope of the ground
– Location of house and well
– The disposal field
• Locate to prevent well contamination
• Laid in a straight line / at a uniform grade
• Grade of drain determined by size of line
– Minimum fall of ⅛‖/ft of run for a 4‖ diameter drain
– Lesser slope may be used on larger diameter
pipe
Septic Tank
• Purchased or constructed on site
• Adequate to hold sewage for three days
– Allow at least 40 gallons per person per day
• Place downhill from home and no closer than
30 ft.
• Contents:
– Scum: grease & lighter solids rise to the top
– Sludge: heavier solids sink to the bottom
– Liquid: remains between layers of scum and
sludge
Final Disposal System
• Liquids only - not easily clogged
• Minimum slope 2 ft. per 100 ft. of run
• Liquid purified by aerobic bacteria
– After leaching through disposal field, liquid
should be free from odors, suspended
solids, and harmful bacteria
Spray Distribution Systems
• WastewaterSeptic Tank Treatment
TankDisinfectant TankPump TankSpray
NozzlesLawn or grassy area
• Treatment Tank:
– Decomposition/purification continues
– Aerator continuously bubble air into bottom of tank
• Disinfectant Tank:
– Chlorine added for further purification
• All types of soils
Lawn & Garden Irrigation System
Layout
Irrigation System Components
• Backflow preventer
• Cutoff riser
• Automatic controller
Licensed Landscape Irrigators
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Design irrigation systems
Install backflow preventers
Excavate trenches
Assemble PVC tubing
Install pumps and controls
Supervise technicians & laborers
Water Hose Repair
• Male end
• Female end
• Hose splice
Residential Property Inspection
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Structural systems
Electrical systems
HVAC systems
Plumbing systems
Appliances
R/E Inspectors Note
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Leaking faucets & hose bibs
Showers & WCs working improperly
Age, brand, & energy source of water heater
Water heater installation details
– pressure relief vented to exterior?
– drain pan?
– raised above floor?
Acknowledgements
Kirk Edney, Curriculum Specialist,
Instructional Materials Service,
developed this PowerPoint presentation.
Vickie Marriott, Office Software Associate,
Instructional Materials Service, assisted in the
development of this PowerPoint presentation.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Reproduction or redistribution of all, or part,
of this presentation without permission is prohibited.
Instructional Materials Service
Texas A&M University
2588 TAMU
College Station, Texas 77843-2588
http://www-ims.tamu.edu
2006