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Mallorca Deep Water Soloing MiniGUIDE
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PDF page 1
by Daimon Beail
Version 2.0 - July 2008
Thank you for downloading this Rockfax MiniGUIDE. We hope that you find
the information useful, inspiring and accurate. Please send any comments
you have to [email protected]
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Mallorca
Deep Water Soloing
11 extra crags not covered in Deep Water
Mallorca Deep Water Soloing MiniGUIDE
by Daimon Beail
Version 2.0 - July 2008
ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.
Published by ROCKFAX Ltd © ROCKFAX Ltd 2008
Porto Cristo Novo
Porto Colom
Cala Sa Nau
Cala Mitjana
Cala Serena
Santanyi
Es Pontas
Cala Llombards
Port de Soller
Sa Calobra
Palma
By Daimon Beail
Palma
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Porto Pi
PEA
Mallorca Deep Water Soloing MiniGUIDE
by Daimon Beail
Edited by Alex Armitage and Alan James
Version 2.0 - July 2008
1 min
ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.
Published by ROCKFAX Ltd © ROCKFAX Ltd 2008
7
All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical
or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher.
6
3
4
Foot Note
5
The inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGUIDE does not mean that you have a right of access or
the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this MiniGUIDE are recorded for
historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. Climbers
who attempt a climb of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are
proficient enough to tackle that climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment.
The authors and publisher of this MiniGUIDE do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused
to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety.
2
1
Acknowledgment
Porto Pi
Approach - This area is also used for swimming and cliff
jumping by many people so it is quite easy to access all the
lines from either the left or right side of the crag via an easy
down-climb.
Exiting - Either on the left or right of the crag, but as always,
if the sea becomes rough a rope is recommended.
1 Pepelink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
10m. The left arch on some good holds until you reach the top.
Watch the ledge at the start.
2 Pilar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
11m. Either swim, use a dinghy, or attempt to climb around to
the start of this one. Climb the pillar, move right onto the face
and then attack the roof at the top.
c
5 Cuquets
...............
6b S0
12m. Quite possibly the first recorded deep water solo on the
island, which would make it the first deep water solo route in
the world! Start as for Jaume, which avoids the hard lip climbing below, to move into the upper part of Meca.
FA. Miquel Riera 1978
6 Jaume. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
11m. On the right of the cove. Beware of brittle rock.
c
7 Sa Primera
.............
6a S0
11m. A slight alternative to Jaume, which takes a more direct
line out of the cove.
c
3
Mucho Mi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8b+ S0
12m. Porto Pi's big number cruncher. Starting on the right side
of the cove, traverse the lip and launch out onto the face to
cross the line of Pilar and into a small corner. Power over the
roof to finish.
4 Meca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S0
Way Down
3
12m. Make an early exit from Mucho Mi and finish on Pilar.
The challenges in writing this book were enormous and time consuming. I began this journey alone and
with no prior knowledge of DWS in Mallorca. All I had was Mike Robertson's article on Diablo and an
obsessive hunger to know more. Along the way things changed regarding my solo mission and in doing
this guide I have met some fantastic people who have offered information and encouragement. I have
also been lucky enough to have had the support of my family and friends. Thanks for keeping me going.
A big thank you to:
Alan James; Mike Robertson (for the 2002 Diablo article which started my journey and your help and
support throughout making this guide); Miquel Riera (the Godfather of Mallorcan rock climbing; this
edition would not have been possible without your help. Josh Lowell (thank you for the photo and
contacts); James Cole (or is it Captain Cole, thanks for all those trips); Peter Brown (for helping us
set sail); Andrew Chapman (for your big lenses, 'focus'); Peter Church (photo technical assistance);
Bernard Exley (the bionic man); Alistair MacDonald (what's with the spud gun); Dieter Werther (thanks
for joining us!!); Adam Lincoln (the president); Martin Putz (Zioggg); Heidi Spets (for all your love and
support); Ged Desforges (thank you for the photos and info on Porto Cristo Novo and Cala Sa Nau);
Iban Garayar (see you out there soon!); Neil Gresham (with help on Novo); Ben Heason (thanks for
your help and pictures); Matt Heason (its a small, small world); Mike Lloyd (thanks for the info); Stuart
Metcalf (technical genius); Thomas Starke (for showing me truth justice and TS way); Ethan Pringle,
(for introducing me to the big up crew, good luck on Es Pontas); Chris Sharma (a true local and thanks
for your help); Anna Starke (at Max Mag); Adrian G. Riber (at Mindtomotion.se); Juergen Waskowiak
(for the west coast info); Ouita Broadfoot (for the illustrator work done on Cova de Ses Puntes); Ramon
Marin (information sorcery) and Alex Armitage (for the super final text edit!).
Big respect to all those on board at dwsworld.com and to everyone who has e-mailed me with
inquires, ideas, tips, info and abuse.
I'd also like to take this opportunity to pay my respects to Damian Cook who was killed whilst soloing in
challenging conditions in Mallorca. Damian was a true pioneer in the evolution of deep water soloing.
He has contributed an array of ideas, first ascents and very much helped pave the way for deep water
soloing. May he rest in peace.
47
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
Registered to xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx REF yyyyyyyy
Palma
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Mallorca
Deep Water Soloing
Porto Pi is a small venue near the shipyards in Palma and is a convenient location for
some activity on the last day whilst waiting for your flight back. There are only a few
routes but this is enough to keep you entertained, with grades stretching from 6a to 8b+.
Porto Pi plays a historical role in the development of Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca.
It was here, back in 1978, that Miquel Riera first began exploring the possibility of
bouldering above the water. The crag is not too high, 12m or so, and is popular with city
workers wanting some after-work soloing action.
Approach
It is difficult to navigate through the city of Palma and the maps provided here are only a
rough guide. Travelling west on the PM-1 (Avenida de Gabriel Roca) you will eventually
come to an area called Porto Pi. Look out for a big shipyard on your left with two large
boathouses, and on the right, a shopping mall with a 'Porto Pi' sign on it. In front is a large
junction. Turn right and follow the road around to your left (this is a large roundabout with
the PM-1 running right through it) and take the third exit on your right. Follow this road
(named Carretera al Dic de I'Oest) for around 400m until you see a metal tank on the left
and a parking area on the right. Park here and it's a 30-second walk to the crag below.
Conditions
The rock is unfortunately quite brittle and loose near the top, so take care in places. Also,
watch out for the occasional accumulation of rubbish in the sea, which normally happens
around mid-to-late afternoon.
Son
Vida
PM-27
Vileta
Son
Muntaner
Golf
PM-20
Genova
PM-30
PALMA
PM-20
PM-1
Castell
de
Bellver
C-715
PM-19
Es
M
ol
in
ar
PM-1
S
A an
gu t
st
i
Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Porto Cristo (Tower of Falcons) . 6
Porto Cristo Novo. . . . . . . . . . . 8
Porto Colom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Cala Sa Nau . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Cala Mitjana . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Cala Serena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Santanyi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Cala Llombards . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Port de Soller . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Sa Calobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Palma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Porto Pi
Porto Pi
C-719
Son
Ferriol
rt
o
rp
Ai
Map not to scale
PM-1
PM-1
Ship Yard
This page: Adam Lincoln on The Camp
Jogger 6c+ Dominion Wall (Porto Colom)
Cover: Heidi Spets heading towards the crux
of Superwoman 7a+.
Back Cover: Axel Big catching some big air.
Photos: Daimon Beail
Porto Pi
Map not to scale
Registered to eo
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Cuquets 6b. Photo by Heidi Spets
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
46
Sa Calobra
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Torrent de Pareis - The Arena
PTA
8 min
J
J
6
The Arena
Approach - The Arena is the first area you reach just before
entering the tunnels. The crag is overlooked by a viewing
area, which means your climbing will attract a lot of attention. You can set up camp on a rocky platform just over the
left side of the railing, and descend to the climbs from here.
Exit - In calm seas exiting is extremely easy as there is an
underwater ledge at the bottom of the natural descent line
into the sea. In slightly rougher conditions a rope would be
useful. Also climb with care at the bottom, as it is normally
quite slippery and wet.
2pc
The Fulcher . . . . . . . .
6b+ S0
18m. A fantastic line that finishes with a long jump back down.
Traverse the handrail along and down past the arete of Wax
until you reach a crouching position under a crack-line. Follow
this all the way until you reach a recess and a finish to the
route. Jump off from here.
FA. Daimon Beail 17.06.05
3ftc
7
Wax . . . . . . . . . .
7a+ S0
12m. A stunning find. Still awaiting a direct finish past the large
pockets. Traverse the handrail until you reach the arete. Climb
the right-hand side of it making some sequence moves to a jug.
Continue to wind your way up the face to the pockets out left.
Jump from here or try the direct finish into the recess.
FA. J.Cole 17.06.05
45
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
Daimon Beail making the first
ascent of The Fulcher 6b+
Registered to eo
Mallorca sits off the eastern coast of Spain
and is home to some of the World's best
deep water soloing. These famous cliffs are
covered with big golden pockets and some
of the toughest solos in the World, including
Chris Sharma's route up the underside of
the Es Pontas arch. But there is also plenty
of more-moderate soloing available across
a wealth of fine crags all in a fantastic
holiday atmosphere.
Daimon Beail Pulling His Way
Out of the Water 7b
This edition of the
Mallorcan deep water
soloing MiniGUIDE (previously known as Mallorcan
Psicobloc) contains crags
that didn't get covered
in the Rockfax publication Deep Water. For the
full picture on deep water
soloing on Mallorca you will need to a copy
of Deep Water. This award-winning book
(Banff 2007 - Best Guidebook) contains the
crags of Porto Cristo, Cala Barques and
Cala Marçal, as well as many other superb
Gear
venues from all around the World. It is availWhat to take? In September and October:
able from the Rockfax web site not a lot. The water is so warm that a wet
www.rockfax.com
suit is not needed. If you are prepared
to wear a shorty then this may help with
If you find anything that you think is missing
buoyancy in the water. Two pairs of boots
or incorrect in this MiniGuide, or wish to
and a chalk bag are all you really need,
inform us about new routes and crags,
along with plenty of chalk and those
email [email protected]
sandwich bags to line the inside of your
chalk bag for when it gets wet.
When to Go
A dinghy is essential for some routes,
The most popular time for climbers to visit
as they require a boat start. These can
tends to be late September, early October
be picked up from tourist hot spots very
when the sea is still warm and the average cheaply. One or two places could do with
air temperature is in the low 20s. Late
a rope ladder to get out of the water, so if
October is often the wettest time of the
you have one, take it along. A 30m rope is
year but its still possible to go and dodge
needed and a few slings for setting up water
the showers. November is also a possibility exits. Ropes are also useful for accessing
but it is likely to be cold and make for a
the bottom of lines safely. A harness is
less pleasant holiday. April to June is also
only needed if you intend to abseil in to the
possible for the more dedicated among
starts.
us but a wet suit might be needed. Local
climbers see July and August as a prime
time to go soloing, but for many this will be
far too hot.
7
6
Introduction
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
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REF y
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Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
2
Introduction
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Safety
Mallorca as a deep water soloing venue
does have its downside. The sea can be
very rough and you are advised to keep
well clear in these conditions. It's amazing
how hard it can be to exit the water in even
a mild swell. There is only a very small
tidal range but please be aware of possible
currents while out swimming under crags.
It goes without saying that you need to be
physically fit for deep water soloing and
being a strong swimmer is an essential part
of the sport. Always climb in teams of two or
more - never, ever solo alone!
It is also worth mentioning the jellyfish - the
large ones (Mild Rhizostoma pulmo) are
easy to spot and normally stay away from
the crags or drift away quickly on the tide.
The smaller gray jellyfish (Pelagia noctiluca)
travel around in shoals, drifting on the
currents. I personally have seen hundreds
at a crag and have been stung a few times
but found it not to be too bad. Watch the
direction of their travel if they are out and
about and head to another crag if possible.
You don't see jellyfish all the time and its
quite possible for you to spend a week or
two in Mallorca and not see any.
Getting around
A hire car is the best choice for maximum
flexibility. Lots of accommodation companies deal directly with their own car companies making things easier when booking.
If you choose to book separately there are
many to be found on the web. It is best to
book before you go.
Access
Most of Mallorca is private land but so far
access to the DWS venues has not been
an issue. As always, take great care when
approaching any of the cliffs, don’t disturb
the vegetation, fences and walls, and leave
politely if asked to do so.
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Sa Calobra
Torrent de Pareis - The Mouth
Flights
There are many flights to Palma, Mallorca
from all sorts of destinations across Europe.
OIUA
15 min
www.flybmi.com, www.britishairways.com,
www.easyjet.com, www.thomsonfly.com,
www.airtours.co.uk, www.airberlin.com
BOAT
1
Exit Point
2
The Mouth
Accommodation
There are lots of fantastic villas, apartments
and hotels on offer but no camping. Wild
camping is allowed but restrictions are in
place making it quite difficult to do safely.
Out of season the villas are a very reasonable price and highly recommended.
See www.dwsworld.com and
www.rockfax.com for more details.
Shops
There are supermarkets in most of the
towns and a large hypermarket in Palma
that will cater for all your needs. Opening
times in Mallorca are normally between
10:00 to 13:30 hrs. and 16:00 to around
20:00 hrs. Shops will normally be closed on
national holidays and Sundays.
New routes
New route and new area information can be
emailed to [email protected]
5
Approach - Sa Pose is reached by either swimming from the
beach and pulling up onto the steps using a rope, or walking
around to the no entry sign on the tunnel path and crossing
a weak railing. Water Logged is a swim from the beach as
are The Little Professor and Mad Professor. Tufa Land is at
the end of The Little Professor traverse and is a lovely wall
covered in (obviously) Tufas. Accessing The Mallorcan needs
to be done from a boat.
2fc
1
Sa Pose. . . . . . . . . . .
6b+ S0
9m. A powerful traverse. Follow the faint crack, which leaves
the massive flake, on positive holds to big side-pulls and power
upwards to a ledge. Work your way down the ledge to the start and
do it again for the spectators who didn’t spot you the first time.
5 The Mallorcan . . . . . . 3sc 7a S0
12m. From the water with a ring or a swim, climb the only tufa
line that is accessible from the sea and follow this via a lovely
jug to where the tufa fattens. Navigate around the right side of
this and head up onto the slab to the right-hand exit.
FA. Ged Desforges Sep.07
Ged Desforges's team of climbers have also accomplished high
points on the adjacent tufas to the left.
FA. Daimon Beail 30.09.03
TU
2 Water Logged. . . . . . . . . pc 6a S0
9m. Pull out of the water and follow the big flake up and right. At
the top of the flake, climb up to the sloping ledge, and jump off!
FA. Julian Chapman 30.09.03
3 The Little Professor
FA
LA
ND
5
Torrent-De-Pareis
1c
....
5+ S0
60m+. Nothing little about it. Normally done from right to left.
Pull yourself out of the water, or off your boat, and traverse at
any height, making it whatever grade you like - 5+ is average.
There are also some boulder problems along the way. It is possible to get to Tufa Land if you don’t have a boat.
FA. Daimon Beail S.Smith J.Chapman 30.09.03
4 The Mad Professor . . . . . 2c 6c+ S0
15m. From the start of Little Professor, head right on fantastic
rock to a tricky handrail and a slap for a large bucket. Continue
as far as you can and bale out just before the shallow water.
3
SW
IM
et
c
4
7
61
TUNNEL
TU
NN
Map not to scale
EL
FA. Daimon Beail 17.06.05
3
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
Registered to eo
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Registered to eo
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Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
44
Sa Calobra
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Sa Calobra is a beautiful spot that can get very busy, which means your climbing activity
can become the centre of attention every now and then. The climbing is found at the
mouth of the 'Torrent-De-Pareis' which in the winter months, after heavy rain, can be a
fast-flowing river. Normally though the river is dry and the mouth of the Gorge is just a dry
pebble beach that slopes sharply into the sea.
The climbing is currently limited but there may be many more possibilities out there.
A boat is recommended, as some of the routes are difficult to pull onto from the sea. If
you decide to visit 'Tufa Land' take a backup flotation device, because if your boat bursts
you’re going to have a long swim back. The climbs never exceed 12m.
Approach
Sa Calobra is on the north side of the island. Make your way to 'Soller' and take the
C710 towards 'Pollenca'. This road winds its way up into the mountains, passing through
many tunnels and via the odd military outpost. After this longer-than-expected drive you
eventually get to a major turn on the left which rollercoasters its way down to 'Cala Tuent'
and 'Sa Calobra'. This point can also be approached from the other direction, direct from
'Pollenca' or from 'Inca'. Following signs to Sa Calobra leads to a pay-and-display car park
on your right near the bottom of the valley. From here, walk down to the sea front and turn
right. Follow the path along the front until you eventually come to a series of small well-lit
tunnels. Try to squeeze your way through them, to emerge at the other side.
Conditions
The biggest problem on this side of the island is rain. Because 'Sa Calobra' is on the edge
of the mountain range it tends to get hit with downpours from time to time. This is obviously less of a problem in June but in mid-October you will find an umbrella quite useful.
The cove faces north west and, because of the steepness of the surrounding cliffs and
mountains, the sun normally hits the area from about midday to early afternoon.
Map not to scale
Torrent-De-Pareis
Crag
Sa
C alobr a
POLLENCA
Sa
Calobra
C710
1348m
A
DE AN
T
A
RR UN
SE AM
TR
1090m
C710
C710
TUNN
EL
SOLLER
PM213
Sa Pobla
Selva
C713
PM210
Alaro
C711
INCA
PM211
C713
PM27
43
Mallorca DWS
PM344
PM324
Version 2.0 - July 2008
Rockfax Symbols
1 a good route
2 a very good route
3 a brilliant route
t technical climbing involving complex
or tricky moves
p powerful moves requiring big arms
s sustained climbing, either long and
pumpy or with lots of hard moves
f fingery climbing - sharp holds!
r a long reach is helpful / essential
g rounded holds may be found
o a dyno is required
h heart fluttery climbing
l loose rock
Registered to eo
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KEY
Mountain peak
Minor road
Highway
Main Road
Dirt track
River or stream
River in built up area
Way to destination
Path
Boulders
Vegetation
House or Hotel
Parking
LH
Lighthouse
Town or village
Built up area
PMV401-2
Road number
Mountainous
area
Buildings
Anchorage
P
Project
J
Jump off point
Other guides
The most essential other
book you will need is the
Grades
Rockfax book Deep Water
All grades are presented in a dual format.
- this covers the three big
The main sport grade gives the overall diffi- crags of Porto Cristo, Cala
culty of the route and the S-grade gives you Barques and Cala Marçal.
an idea of how safe it is.
Psicobloc Mallorca is
Colour Code
Miquel Riera's best of guide
1 4+ and under Good for beginners
to 'Psicobloc' on the island.
Harder routes for those with It contains a variety of
2 5 to 6a+
coastal sport climbs and a
some experience
For the experienced and
small section on bouldering
3 6b to 7a
dedicated climber
on the south east coast.
The hard stuff, for expert
The book is in both Spanish
4 7a+ and up
dws climbers only
and English S0 - Safe and relatively non-committing.
Usually with a low crux move and any falls
lead to a clean projection into the water.
S1 - A caution rating. Longer and the route
may also have a high crux.
S2 - Similar to S1 but may also have
protruding ledges above or below the water.
The water may be shallow in places and
bailing out will require a bit of precision to
get into the water safely.
S3 - The connoisseur’s DWS. Heady to onsight. Often shallow, high cruxes, exposed
and often genuinely dangerous. Take care!
PM220
1102m
Port
de
Soller
Climbing Information
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
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www.edicionesdesnivel.com
Easy Block by Jurgen
Waskowiak, Oliver Fischer
and Bernd Gorten is a small
guide to the low-grade deep
water soloing that can be
found on the south west
coast of the island. This
area is ideal for beginners
and small groups as most
of the venues are easy to
access and not very high.
www.psicobloc.com
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
4
The Climbing Areas
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Port
d'Pollença
Pollença
10 min
Conditions - Cova de Ses
Puntes faces west, which
gives it the afternoon and
evening sun. It does not
dry out quickly.
710
La Puebla
Soller
Valldemossa
Inca
712
Muro
Alaro
Artà
Cova de Ses Puntes
PTA
Port d'Alcúdia
Alcúdia
Port de Soller
Port de Soller
MALLORCA
Sa Calobra
Cova de Ses Puntes
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Way Down
Way Down
Cala
Ratjada
Santa Margalida
Bunyola
710
Santa María
PM27
715
Petra
Porto Cristo
713
PM111
715
Airport
Andratx
PM1
Santa
Poncça
Palma
Vilafranca
Manacor
Porto
Cristo
717
Porto Pi
Porto Cristo Novo
Felantix
Cala Barques
Porto
Colom
Campos del
Puerto
Porto Colom
Cala Marcal
Santanyi
Cala Sa Nau
Orange crags are
covered in Deep Water
Cala Mitjana
Cala Llombards
The east coast still holds a lot of potential
and there are many smaller venues dotted
around. Most of these larger areas are
known - like the cliffs between Cala Marcal
and Cala Sa Nau - but have not seen much
development yet.
Cala Marcal to
Cala Sa Nau
Cala Santanyi
&
Es Pontas
5
6
7
Small Ledge
Cova de Ses Puntes
The west coast also has a lot of potential.
Three new areas have already been developed by some local climbers on the south
west coast and offer some easier lines,
which are perfect for first-timers.
Further north, the more dedicated and
braver soloers should seek out some of
those highball deep water solos which are
still awaiting a first ascent. The amazing
Formentor peninsula hasn't any recorded
ascents to date! Accessing the cliffs on
Formentor is hard and they are rather
exposed to the elements. If you visit and
develop something new and want to share
it with the rest of the world, then document
it as well as you can with crag photos and
some good descriptions.
Approach - Follow the road along the sea front to a 'no
entry' sign. Turn sharp right up the hill and continue through
hairpin bends past the Nautilus Bar (parking for the sport
crag). Where the road curves right, turn left onto a small
road leading off onto a dirt track. This winds for about 1km
through olive trees and shrubs to a small open area - park
here. Walk along a gully/path towards the sea cliff and tower.
Go right around this and continue to the cliff edge where you
will locate the cave. To access the lines simply down climb
either the left or right side of the cave. Install an exit rope.
Metxicans to Tramontana all start from a small ledge which
means no tricky traversing.
Cova de Ses Puntes
1 Supermanolo . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
14m. Starting from the left side of the cave mouth and climb
the lip of the cave until you reach easier ground above.
2 Republica Sinestra . . . . . . . . c 7c S0
14m. Traverse right into the cave for 2m before launching up
the steep wall and out over the lip. Often wet.
3 Cristo . . . . . . . . . . . . 1fc 7a S0
14m. From the right side of the cave, traverse leftwards into the
centre and onto the slightly bulging wall. From the left side of
this, which is difficult to attain, climb left toward the roof and
then cross it to gain the upper wall.
4 PSM . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2fc 6c S0
12m. Climb the centre of the cave, which is a little crimpier
than the rest.
Tower
Sport Crags
Dirt Track
Path to Sport Crags
5 Metxicans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
14m. Just right of centre is a small incut hole. Climb left over
this and slightly to the right of PSM.
6 Tanassa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
14m. Just to the right of Metxicans is an easier but ever so
slightly steeper wall. The large holds keep this line in check.
Please e-mail [email protected] if you've
found new lines and check out
www.dwsworld.com and www.rockfax.com to
see what's new.
These cliffs contain
many caves and
vertical walls which
offer some excellent
potential for further
development.
4
1
New Areas
Although there has been plenty of development, there are more areas still to be
discovered and many of the crags in this
guide still have room for further development.
3
2
Cala Serena
7 Tramontana . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S1
OD
M
Map not to scale
14m. The right-hand side of the cave. Watch the ledge at the
start.
LH
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Mallorca DWS
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42
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Port de Soller
OIWA
15 min
BOAT
2
Porto Cristo - Tower of Falcons
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
The main crag at Porto Cristo is covered in the Rockfax book Deep Water. Since that was
published in 2007, there have been a few new additions to the Tower of Falcons Area
(page 268 of Deep Water).
The Tower of Falcons is situated on the opposite edge of Porto Cristo town to Cova del
Diablo. The landmark to locate the area is the large cliff-top tower. The stunning cave
below the Tower may one day host some absolute DWS masterpieces.
3
C715
Landing
Platform
1
C715
MANACOR
Sa Coma
Cala Moreia
PM402
3fc
1 Aqua Phobia
.......
6c S0
35m. An excellent right-to-left traverse. Climb under the shelf,
then up and left, using a big thread.
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
1fc
2
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
Tower of Falcons
Porto Cristo Novo
0 It Could Go On . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
4 A Passage to the New . . . . . . c 6a+ S1
8m. Climb diagonally left, on big holds, starting at the base of
the Big Easy Flake. Carry on until you reach the massive hole.
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
5 Pots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
16m. Follow the crackline under the ramp to the roof and finish
as for A Passage to the New.
FA. S.Smith 28.09.03
q Big Easy Flake . . . . . . . . . . . c 4 S2
7m. Climb it.
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
w Little Princess . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b+ S0
1fc 6b S0
8m. Traverse right, low down from the left side of the face until
you reach a flake. Climb this and finish as for A Passage...
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
15 min
PMV401-4
10m. The easy way up, or down.
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
14m. Follow the ramp to the roof and climb up and right.
OIWA
Porto Cristo
8 The Ease of Passage . . . . . . . c 3 S3
7m. Up the stuck-on flake is the nicest.
9m. The blank arete right of Little Blue.
FA. S.Smith 28.09.03
............
Cova Del Diablo
C714
9 Deep Sea Climbing. . . . . . . . c 5+ S1
3 It Tastes Like The Sea . . . fc 7b S2
6 Squid
9m. There is a wall right of the face, climb the part that bulges
slightly over the water and veers left at the top.
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
The Little Blue . . . . . .
6b+ S0
9m. Start as for Aqua Phobia but continue up the arete on jugs.
It gets 6b+ for the start, the rest is probably only 5+.
Cala Morlanda
7 Dim Dim . . . . . . . . . . 2fc 5 S0
80m+. The mighty traverse from the landing platform takes you
to the far end of the crag. Finish up Big Easy Flake. The harder
bits can normally be bypassed higher up.
Approach
Drive southwards out of Porto Cristo, up the hill from the small bridge, and make a left
turn down a straight road to a circular car park at the end. Here you cannot miss the
amazing stone Tower of Falcons, with its rather disturbing, eroded, inner staircase. You'll
need your shoulders for an ascent!
Conditions
There are no tidal issues but pay
close attention to the sea state.
Avoid hot sun on Morning Glory.
Porto Cristo
PM402
FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03
BOAT
Cova del Diablo
Area
See Deep Water Rockfax
10
PMV401-4
4
7
5
41
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
6
Tower of Falcons
8
9
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Mallorca DWS
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6
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Porto Cristo Tower of Falcons
AOE
1 min
Tower of Falcons
9
J
Rope Way Down
J
6
5
8
7
Port de Soller
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Port de Soller’s DWS crag is a quiet little gem. It is bigger than it looks from the beach
although there’s nothing much higher than 10m, except on the far right-hand where the
cliff rises to around 15m. This crag is best visited if you happen to be in the area; don’t
go out of your way especially if you’re enjoying the delights of the East Coast. The entire
crag is undercut and in most places the sea is deep - safe for splashdowns. There may
be some new route possibilities on the right side of this crag. On the other side of the bay
there is a fantastic cave with a lighthouse on top. Unfortunately, this is military-owned and
it is strongly recommended you stay well clear of it.
Slightly further northeast up the coast is Cova De Ses Puntes. This offers some harder
routes that top out a bit higher at around 14m but are not always in good condition. When
conditions are right though, you're in for a treat with some fantastic lines waiting to be
ticked. See page 42 for approach.
Water Exit
Water Exit
Approach
.........
5
Big Cave
Tower of Falcons
1
2
3
Map not to scale
2stc 6a S0
140m. A long and relatively easy left-to-right traverse of the
wall. It ends just to the left of the bulging face. From here it's
best to solo (not a DWS) up the spiky wall at about 3+.
FA. Gav Symonds Oct. 2002
2 Shrek Extension . . 1stc 6c+ S0
15m. Traverse another 15m beyond Shrek to pump the grade
up to 6c+.
FA. Ken Palmer Oct. 2001
3 Feist Queen . . . . . 2shc 6c S3
4
2sftc
5
Morning Glory
7a+ S1
160m. From the large platform, traverse left toward the large
cave. The hard bit comes near the end as you make a rising
traverse up to a small cave at one-third height. Jump from here.
The main crag at Port de Soller faces east so it generally gets the morning and earlyafternoon sun. It also dries very quickly.
FA. Mike Robertson Oct. 2001
6 Sa Valenta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S3
12m. Climb the block to the inner cave. Watch the underwater
ledge and don't fall! It may be possible to jump off at the end
(don't hold me to that) better still just reverse it.
18m. Not the kind of line most soloers would be happy with
doing with only 2m of water to break your fall. But if you are up
for it then continue traversing past the end of Shrek and climb
the bulging wall to the right of the spiky face. The crux is near
the top!
23m. This fantastic line climbs the steep wall at the back of the
cave (right-hand side) to a large horn-shaped tufa in the roof.
Continue to the lip and eventually the top.
FA. Mike Robertson Oct. 2002
FA. Chris Sharma 2006
4 Public Enema No.1 . . . 1tc 6b S2
8 Toni
FA. Grant FArquhar Oct. 2001
FA. Toni Lamprecht 2006
18m. Climb the line to the right of Feist Queen. Escape right up
a groove to an easier finish than the previous line.
Conditions
Port de Soller
Cova de
Ses Puntes
Sa
Calobra
1
7 La Hostia. . . . . . . 3sfc 8a+ S2
..................
c 7c S1
18m. Climb the right-hand side of the cave mouth to the roof.
Continue up and slightly rightwards to the top.
9 Forat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7c+ S1
17m. From the cave where Morning Glory finishes, tackle the
bulging wall above to a ledge. The upper section needs care.
LH
1348m
Port
de
Soller
Mallorca DWS
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A
DE N
A NTA
R
U
R
SE AM
R
T
1090m
C710
C710
SOLLER
PM213
Port
de
Soller
OD
M
LH
Landing Platform
Port de Soller
Selva
PM210
PM211
Alaro
INCA
C713
C711
PM27
Map not to scale
PM210
FA. Toni Lamprecht 2006
7
Cova de Ses Puntes
C710
L
1 Shrek
P or to C r is to
PMV401-4
TUNN
E
Tower of Falcons
Shrek, is located about 200m south of the tower at the
bottom of an easy way down. You can use Shrek to traverse
along to the starts of Feist Queen and Public Enema No.1.
The start to Morning Glory is slightly north east along the
cliff where it is possible to make your way down to a large
ledge. La Hostia and Toni are best reached via a ropeassisted descent to the right of Forat. Sa Valenta is a dry-bag
to a ledge in the cave.
Exits - For Shrek, Feist Queen and Public Enema use a preplaced rope. Morning Glory is a swim back to the ledge.
Routes near La Hostia requires a swim into the cave to exit.
Sa Valenta is just a swim back to the ledge under the route!
Always install a rope for exiting the water where you can.
From Palma take the C711 towards Soller through the toll tunnel. When you reach a
roundabout near Soller keep going and follow signs to 'Port de Soller'. Follow this road to
the port. Parking is best found around the back streets. From the left-hand side of the bay,
make your way along the water’s edge until it gets rocky. Continue along a disused pipe
(covered in concrete) down as far as the rocky beach. There is a large dusty rock pillar,
which prevents you from continuing any further without getting wet. Launch your dinghy
from here and paddle across, or alternatively dry-bag it to the crag.
Aqua Phobia and The Little Blue start from the landing platform. Be careful getting onto
the start as there are one or two ledges sticking out and the odd greasy hold. Descend by
clambering over the top and back to the landing platform or jump off into the sea.
A Passage To The New to Big Easy Flake are reached by either traversing Little Princess
from the platform or walking slightly above the crag through all those nasty bushes.
Alternatively, you could just use a dinghy, as it is quite easy to get onto land.
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40
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Llombards South
The spectacular cave of Porto Cristo Novo
was first discovered by Ken Palmer and
Adam Wainwright in 2002 and is Mallorca's
equivalent to the Grandegrotta in Kalymnos
with its giant stalactites hanging from the
roof of the cave. This obvious appeal soon
attracted a team exploring the cave's possibilities. Unfortunately the only line to have
been done though was Neil Gresham's
mega He Who Dares Rodders. Shortly after,
the cave was also visited by Klem Loscot
and his team but ascents weren't recorded.
In September 2007 Ged Desforges, Cas
Ladha and Nick Ward visited the area and
put up six new lines in and around the cave
and documented them.
OPEA
15 min
1
2
3
Rope Way Down
Approach
14m. The easiest of the three lines on this wall. Trickier near
the top.
2 Locat Matador . . . pthc 7c S1
15m. Follow the line of Sa tangent to the lip of the cave and
move out right to a block at the base of a flake. Climb this and
the shallow groove above with care.
2pc
Esplendor Geometrico
8a+ S1
22m. Esplendor Geometrico is the big daddy of this wall. From
where Locat Matador launches up the block, continue to the
arete and navigate your way on the steep underside of the face.
Pull round slightly left near the top to make those final moves
to victory.
Once again this is a venue that holds potential for future
development. The long wall to the right (photo right) although
friable and dusty in places, could well hold a long and sustained
traverse to put many forearms to the test.
Also the wall beyond Llombards South looks to hold some
potential lines. Always check the depth and all safety aspects
when exploring these new possibilities.
39
Mallorca DWS
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PMV401-2
P or to C r is to
PMV401-4
S on
C714 M ac ia
P or to C r is to N ovo
C ala Crag
R om antic a
S on Pr ohe ns
F E LA NIT X
C alas de M allor c a
PMV401-2
C ala M ur ada
C714
PM401
Es
C ar r itx o
LH
PMV401-2
C as
C onc os
P or to C olom
Map not to scale
Porto Cristo
Porto Colom
PMV401-4
P or to C r is to N ovo
Crags
C ala R om antic a
Map not to scale
From Porto Cristo, follow signs to Porto
Colom (PMV 401-4 / MA-4014) and follow
this road for about a mile to a small roundabout. Take the second exit and follow this
road all the way to the coast where the road
bends around to the right. Keep following it
around until you are heading back inland on
the road 'Paseo de la Infanta Carlota'. Park
and locate signs to the beach, which lies
below on your left.
From the beach, head out along the lefthand side of the bay along the small cliff
until you reach a small area where it is
possible to enter the water. Use your boat
to paddle around to the left until you reach
the cave.
1 Sa tangent . . . . . . . . . . . tc 6b+ S1
3
PM402
a
am
Approach - Head south along the cliff edge and past some
large boulders which block your path. From here you can
see Llombards South and the path that runs around the cliff
edge to the cave. A rope is needed to descend to the base of
the crag. Use a rope to gain the left side of the cave.
Exit - Install a rope on the exit point before you set off.
M A N A C OR
aG
Llombards South
C715
S on S ervera
C715
PM332
d
sco
Va
de
Av
The main reason that this crag has not seen
much development is because you need a
boat to get to the routes. Also, the top of the
crag is overgrown so most top-outs normally
see people taking a long plunge. Another
unfortunate issue is that tourist boats drive
into the cave in the summer months, which
makes climbing on the stalactites potentially dangerous. Outside school and public
holidays - October onwards - this is less of
a problem.
Water Exit
Porto Cristo Novo
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
P or to C r is to N ovo
Over-Grown Area
Cave
Right Wall
Map not to scale
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8
Porto Cristo Novo
PEA
8 min
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
The Main Cave
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Llombards
IPEA
BOAT
10 min
North
BOAT
4
5
Way Down
1
2
3
Llombards North
2
3
1
Water Exit
The Main Cave
There are only three lines at present in the cave which all
require a dingy to access. The Exit point is to the right of the
cave and is easy to attain in calm conditions.
2pc
1
Up the Anty . . . . . . . .
6c+ S1
25m. Start at the left-hand side of the main cave and climb
diagonally right over some steep terrain to the featured upper
wall. Don't pump out!
FA. Cas Ladha Sep. 2007
2 He Who Dares Rodders 2pc 7b S1
19m. Start on the right-hand side of the cave. Traverse left
around the arete and into the cave where you will eventually gain some huge black stalactites, just to the left of the
arete. Pull around on undercuts to finish direct on the crimpy
headwall, which may well see you in the drink.
FA. Neil Gresham July 2002
Approach - Head to the small pinnacle which sticks out to
sea, to the left of the steps. The cave is visible from here.
Down climb the right side of the crag to reach Balams and
Te Lo Juro Por Snoopy - no rope required. A boat is advised
to reach the left-hand side although down climbing is still
possible. Sa Rossaguera and Aresta. Follam Balam is much
trickier so a dinghy is probably in order.
Exit - A natural exit is possible on the left-hand side of the
cave (looking in). It is probably more convenient and safer to
install a rope to exit on the right-hand side of the cave.
There is definitely more potential here for new lines especially near the stone staircase.
4 Te Lo Juro Por Snoopy. . . fc 8a+ S0
11m. A harder and more direct finish to Balam.
5 Balam
3pfc
6 Lama
c
........
7c S0
11m. From the ledge at half height, launch onto the roof and
power your way up and right on good holds to the upper wall.
More technical face climbing awaits before you reach the top. A
favourite line for that photo opportunity in that no-hands rest.
.................
7b S1
9m. A short face climb on the right-hand side of the cave.
1 Sa Rossaguera . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
14m. From just above sea level, climb easily to the top.
3 Geordie Racer . . . . . . . . 1c 7a S1
2 Aresta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007
3 Follam Balam. . . . 2pfc 8a S0
17m. Climb the right side of the arete to just above the lip of
the cave. Swing left for a couple of meters and finish to the
right of He Who Dares Rodders.
Nic Ward climbing Up the Anty 6c+.
Photo by Ged Desforges
15m. Right above the mouth of the cave.
22m. When the conditions are right, this is the one to bag!
A boat is helpful to get the start. Navigate your way over the
roof and join Balam. There is a lovely no-hands rest near the
lip of the cave so take full advantage of that. The upper wall is
quite thin and technical.
Easy Way Down
6
The cave of Llombards South
Photo by Daimon Beail
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38
Cala Llombards
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Porto Cristo Novo
Cala Llombards is for climbers seeking solitude away from the crowds. There are two
crags; Llombards North, which is the main attraction; and Llombards South, which is a
short walk south and gets few visits. The cliff face is cut into two - the lower wall is a sea
cliff and very soloable, mostly above clean water with no rocks.
Sector Esperenza
OEA
8 min
BOAT
Approach
From Santanyi follow signs for 'Es
Llombards' and follow the PM610 to a
roundabout. Take the second exit on the
right sign posted 'Cala Llombards'. Follow
this road for about 1km to a bend to the left.
Continue for about another 2km until you
reach a built-up area. Take the first major
left turn signed 'Platja' as well as 'Cala
Llombards'. Follow this for a short way and
take the first right and continue down here
to where the road curves around to the
left and winds its way through the housing
estate. Where the road splits in two, take
the road on the right down to a dead end
where you can park and walk down some
stairs to the cliff edge. Alternatively you
can continue on the left road at
the split to a junction, turn right
Es
Llombards
and right again which will take
you down a semi-tarmaced road
PM610
to another parking area, which
is down by the cliff edge. Upon
reaching the sea you can either
head left for a short way to reach
the cave of Llombards North, or
head right along the sea cliff for
about 10 minutes to Llombards
South.
PMV401-2
Alqueria Blanca
C714
C717
C717
C717
Es
Llombards
PM610
Cala
d'Or
3
4
1
Porto
Petro
SANTANYI
2
610-2
Cala
Figuerai
Cala
Santanyi
CalaLlombards
Crags
Sector Esperenza
A handful of shorter lines, which are easier than those in
the cave. There are a number of ways to access the area but
most people tend to traverse in from the right side of the
cave along Retro Cruiser. Upon topping out you can either
jump off or reverse to the right of Esperenza as there is no
walk-off due to the vegetation. Exit at the cave.
Approach - Routes 2, 3, 4 are approached by a long traverse
from a water exit point way right (dingy required). Route 1
is approached from the water exit at the right-hand end of
main cave.
Santanyi
Son
Moger
610-2
Cala
Santanyi
Cala
Figuerai
CalaLlombards
Crag
1 Retro Cruiser . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
14m. From the left side of the wall, traverse the slab to the
bulge. Use the pocket to climb over the bulge and gain the big
flake. Finish direct from here.
2 My name is Jackie . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
10m. Start from Baby Loader and make tricky moves into the
left groove to join Retro Cruiser.
FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007
c
3
Baby Loader. . . . . . . . . . . . .
6b+ S0
9m. From the ledge, move left and down, to swing left into the
right of the two grooves. Climb up this, and move right to the
large pocket, and finish direct.
FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007
4 Esperenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 5 S0
9m. The easy crack.
FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007
FA. Cas Ladha Sep. 2007
Crag
Conditions
As with all cave venues, you
are always going to get some
greasy rock from time to time.
On the plus side these crags are
exposed to the wind so this may
well prevent large build up of
moisture in the caves. The topouts to some of the lines are a
little bit friable in places but this
is slowly changing as more and
more people attempt the lines.
The Main Cave
Sector Esperenza
Llombards North
Staircase
Llombards South
Map not to scale
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10
Porto Colom
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Hidden away underneath the Porto Colom
C alas
lighthouse is an exciting venue, which is
PMV401-2
de
F E LA NIT X
M allor c a
more suited to the roof-hungry boulderer.
Sa
PM401
P lana
The classics of the area are The Princess of
V e lla
E s D om ingos
Transilvania 7a+ and I Live in a Cave 6b.
S ant S alvador
Dominion Wall
The lines on the lower section are short
which suits most soloers but the longer routes
PM401
P OR T O
C714
which top out are quite committing and generC OL OM
PMV401-2
C as C onc os
ally don't see that many ascents. Retreat is
Lighthouse Area
S 'H or ta
usually by jump or reversing I Live in a Cave.
C ala M ar c al
A lque r ia
To the right side of the crag is a large
B lanc a
C ala S a N au
platform where you can stow your gear and
C ala S e r e na
hang out. It is also one of the few soloing
C ala F e r r e r a
C717
C717 C ala
d'Or
venues were you can easily spectate without
Map not to scale
having to actually climb.
Also in the area is the Dominion Wall which has a huge potential but only limited development at present.
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Santanyi
Es Pontas
Es Pontas - the King Line
The first ascent of Es Pontas was captured
by Big Up Productions and appears in
the film 'King Lines'. This photo comes
courtesy of Josh Lowell at Big Up.
www.bigUpProductions.com
PONTAX
8a+ line
7b line
7b line
PWA
5 min
Conditions
The Lighthouse Area is situated in a sheltered cove. The main part of the crag gets the
sun in the middle of the day. With all cave-style routes some of the holds can get soapy
but there is little seepage. Take plenty of chalk with you because it can get quite humid at
times and grease you right off those holds.
Easy way up
or down
1
Es Pontas
Approach
Dominion Wall
PM401
The Es Pontas arch is home to one of the hardest routes in
the world. With no bolts to hang on, the line of Es Pontas
requires time, patience and super human abilities to conquer.
Approach - Gaining the arch is tricky and requires either a
short swim from the mainland to the right side of the arch
(indicated as Water Exit 1 on the topo) or use an inflatable
boat to the same location. Be extremely careful if you are
trying to get there in rough seas.
Exit - Take a rope and an inflatable back-up device to help
you exit from the water. Water Exits 2 and 3 on the topo are
slightly easier and safer exit points.
1
Porto
Colom
TE
L
LH
HO
Follow the PM-401 takes you all the way
to Porto Colom. At the main roundabout
turn left and follow the road round the
bay and up towards the lighthouse. Take
the last exit on the left just before the
lighthouse and follow this for a short
way round the sharp corner until you
see a white house with a driveway on
the right. On the left side of the entrance
is the name 'Aldea Ibicenca N12' and
on the right is a 'No Entry' sign for cars.
Park somewhere on the left side of the
road. Walk through the entrance (being
discreet as this is an access road to
property) and head straight across to find
some concrete steps leading down to
the sea. At the bottom of the steps, turn
right and head for about 200m along the
rocky path (which requires a little bit of
easy traversing in one or two spots) until
you arrive at the crag (see map on next
page).
Cala Marcal
Lighthouse Area
BOAT
3sfgc
Es Pontas . . .
9a+ S2
23m. Start at the base of the pillar on a small ledge about 2m
above the water. Tackle a V10 boulder problem over a small
roof and onto the overhanging face to reach some slightly better holds. Continue for about 15 more moves using a series of
pinches, pockets and the odd tufa before moving right into the
barrel of the gun. At this point it's make or break as you take
on a huge dynamic lunge from two undercuts to a large and
impossibly hard to stick pocket. (Continuing up and then heading leftwards for another 6m via a series of finger pockets, and
topping out on the seaward side of the arch gives you PONTAX
8c S1. This was done in November 2005 and was Chris
Sharma's original finish to the line). From the pocket, continue
up and right to cross the belly of the whale via a small juggy
rail where you may quickly chalk up. Head out to reach the
lip of the arch on the landward side and follow a series of fat
slopes until you reach the central point of the arch. With willpower and anything else you can conjure, power on to the top.
2
1
Water Exits 2 & 3
Water Exit 1
2 Stop Look and Listen
To Route 1
c
......
5+ S1
20m. A very easy anti-clockwise tour of the left pillar of Es
Pontas.
Two other lines have been reported but the authenticity of
them has yet to be confirmed. The first is an 8a+ variant to
Es Pontas that starts at the right-hand side of the arch, and
crosses over, to top out on the seaward side. The second route
is a 7b that climbs the left side of the arch, and pulls through
onto the headwall where things start to go horizontal. A 7a as
well as a 6b can be found on the vertical seaward side of the
arch (left side looking in), as well as a few other fun outings.
There is an isolated traverse on the other side of the cove to
the west.
3 Treasure Island . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
90m. Swim across the cove and traverse to the next bay.
Something to do if you want to see the area. Keep wandering
and you will eventually come to Cala Llombards.
FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004
FA. Chris Sharma Sept. 26 2006. A truly amazing achievement!
11
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36
Santanyi
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Santanyi
OPUA
5 min
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Porto Colom
Lighthouse Area
PUA
BOAT
15 min
J
2
1
Platform
19
Exit Point
18
17
J
6
1 Super Sonic . . . . . 2fpc 7a S0
1
11m. Traverse left from the platform into the cave. Climb out
across the lip of the cave on good holds until almost half way.
Climb diagonally up from here.
2
J
5
13
3
4
7
FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003
8
10
11
Close-up on next page
Super
Sonic
Area
3 Naked Germans . . . . . . . . . . c 4+ S0
15
16
...........
6b S0
15m. From the platform, climb the flake and then traverse the
break-line to the other platform.
FA. Julian Chapman Oct. 2003
14
12
9
c
2 Bird Watching
J
J
6m. This is also a good descent route.
FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003
4 Wave Machine
..........
Lighthouse Area
c 5+ S0
6m. Traversing right into the cove leads to a slightly steeper
wall. Climb up just right of the arete and past the left side of
the lip.
Approach - All the lines are reached via the traverse Drop
Zone 6b+. The only exception is Future Barny to Omprakash
for which you need to use a dry-bag to get your gear to the
other side and climb out onto a large ledge.
S'atic to Cris Rabbit can be reached from I live in a Cave
6b+ and traversing left along the ledge, or one of the lines
directly below them.
Exit - Most people exit to the right of the crag onto the large
platform. A rope is not needed but is handy when rough.
The Cove
FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003
c
5 Vino Master
Sport Crag
............
6a S0
6m. Climb up to and over the right side of the lip. Careful as it's
a bit loose at the top.
FA. Julian Chapman Oct. 2003
6 Mr. Smith
C ala S antanyi
..............
c 6a S1
18m. It gets a bit shallow towards the back of the cave, which
is where you should really finish this one.
Staircase
FA. Steve Smith Oct. 2003
Map not to scale
35
Mallorca DWS
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c
............
7a S1
16m. Climb the overhanging arete to easier climbing above.
2 Wenga Xavi . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S1
16m. Traverse in past the overhanging arete and climb the wall
to its right. Pull over the overlap to an easier wall above.
3
1c
4 Omprakash
1c
No Me Puedo Quejar . . . .
7a+ S1
17m. The finish marked on the topo continues over a small
roof. Alternatively move right to join the roof section of
Omparakash. Both finishes are thoroughly enjoyable.
..........
7b S1
17m. Difficult climbing up a blank corner to an increasingly
steep wall above. Manoeuvre across the roof on good holds to
the top.
5 Ren Culo Superchulo . 1fc 7b S0
Cala Santanyi
Approach - The Super Sonic Area is reached by
swimming or boating across to the platform (as
marked on the topo). Alternatively you can walk
there from the beach. Routes on the left side
of The Cove require you to swim across to the
slightly submerged platform. Then traverse right
from here. Mr. Smith is gained by climbing down
the right side of the cove.
1 Future Barny
12m. The last boulder line to be found on this lower wall. After
traversing in along Drop Zone, move across the roof on small
crimps and up the blank wall. This sees most people in the
drink.
3
4
5
6
6 Lu.Ci-Ana
LH
Lighthouse Area
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1c
...........
7b S1
20m. The link-up between Ren Culo Superchulo and the top
half of Omprakash. Also quite popular as an alternative midclimb exit from the routes to its right.
Map not to scale
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12
Porto Colom
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Lighthouse Area
PUA
15 min
9
7
8
5
Santanyi
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
The small bay of Cala Santanyi is best left to those seeking a bit of fun when the weather
gets too hot for sport climbing on the cliffs of Tijuana. The soloing here is limited, however
the routes are great fun, especially Super Sonic. The rock can be brittle in places and
the bay itself has been known to be hit by freak waves - all this adds to the excitement of
the place. Take care in the Cove Area since the water is shallow in places and a boat is
useful for reaching the Super Sonic Area.
When news began to emerge that Chris Sharma was working something big in Mallorca
back in 2005 it was no surprise that the project was on the arch of Es Pontas. This
impressive arch, is isolated from the mainland, and situated slightly further down the coast
and is easily reached via a short drive from the beach at Cala Santanyi. It is easy to get
to in calm seas but much more difficult when the conditions are rough. Chris’s efforts are
now legendary and have left us with one of the World’s hardest routes - Es Pontas.
Approach
Cala Santanyi - From Santanyi, follow signs for Cala Santanyi out of the village. Take the
second turning signed to Cala Santanyi, off this road (ignore the first turning). Then take
the first left turn followed by a right turn (signed ‘HR Palmaria’). Continue along this road,
past a roundabout with a tree and park by the barrier which is across the private road that
leads to a tower. Leave nothing valuable in the car. From here walk towards the tower and
turn right at the end. Follow the path and descend to the platform below. When you reach
the sea, turn right and walk along the mini cliff until you get to The Cove.
Es Pontas - Follow signs all the way to Cala Santanyi. When you reach the bottom of
the steep hill you will find signs to Es Pontas. Follow the road back up the bay, past a car
park, and turn left to head up a steep hill. Once at the top of the hill, turn left to take the
coastal road and keep a sharp eye out for the Es Pontas signs. If you are lucky you will
find yourself eventually reaching a dead end. Park here but do not block the entrance to
the wooded area or park on the yellow lines.
Enter the wood and turn right. Follow the
track until you reach a wall and a path which
veers off left towards the cliff. This leads
down to the Es Pontas arch.
610-2
Drop Zone
7 The Rabbit is Dead . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
12m. The left-hand variation to Mataconejos which crosses the
roof and heads out over to the arete on the upper wall.
8 Mataconejos
c
C ala
S antanyi
............
7a S0
12m. Climb the roof to gain the upper wall and the crack line
which curves around to the left. Pull around the side of the roof
and finish as for The Rabbit is Dead.
PMV401-2
A lque r ia B lanc a
9 Princess of Transilvania3pc 7a S0
C714
12m. An absolute classic! Climb the stalactite rib on the roof
using good pockets to the lip. Pull up on big holds to the
stalactite formation and a rest. Move up and right to gain the
upper face and layback your way up the crack to the ledge.
Walk off right or jump into the sea.
Es
L lom bar ds
PM610
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Map not to scale
P or to
P e tr o
Crags
Tijuana Sport Crag
610-2
C ala
L lom bar ds
yyyyyyy
C ala
d'Or
S A NT A NY I
C ala
S antanyi
Andrew Chapman making an early exit from
Princess of Transilvania 7a. Photo: Daimon Beail
E s P ontas
C717
C717
C717
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Cala
Santanti
C ala
F igue r ai
Crags
Map not to scale
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Es Pontas Arch
Route 3
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
34
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena Prest Area
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
OPEA
Porto Colom
J
5 min
16
18
20
12
21
22
Prest Area
11
A nice selection of routes on good rock. A rope is
useful for descending to the base of the cliff and
also make sure a rope is set up for a water exit.
Probably the best location for the exit is under the
way down, but check other locations as well.
10
9
Drop Zone
t Es Xirimollo . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
p Prest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
y Xapapote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 8a+ S0
a Gasolina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
u Superguapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 8a S0
s Europa
14m.
13m.
12m.
i Malle
.................
c 7b+ S0
8m.
9m.
9m.
................
c 6b S0
d Sense Casc . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
12m.
o Diedre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
10m.
f Trobador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
12m.
0 Tequila-men
............
12m. Big roof climbing to the upper wall.
c 7b+ S0
q
c
w
2pc
Baby Nate . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7a+ S0
12m. A shot corner to overcome with some tricky roof climbing
thrown into the equation.
Way Down
33
Mallorca DWS
23
Version 2.0 - July 2008
u
c
The rest of the routes are shown on the topo on page 12.
S'atic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7b+ S2
12m. The first of three lines taking you over the final roof and
to the top of the crag. Many people do this as a continuation to
The Rabbit is Dead.
e Mi LLamo Chris . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
i Niagara Will Fall
c
18m. The only route on this part of the wall which tops out.
Climb the left side of the bulging face. Take care near the top.
c
r
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14m. The right-hand version of Titan. Again this line finishes
rather high and a down-climb is recommended if jumping off.
c
Titan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6c+ S0
12m. Traverse onto the face and cross the white streak diagonally then power your way up onto the small ledge. It's quite far
to jump from this height so a reverse a bit first.
24
t Topspin . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1c 7a S0
y
I live in a Cave . . . . . .
6b+ S0
12m. A popular line. A short roof leads to a small deep cave squirm in for a rest. Unfortunately there is also a big rest possible on a ledge on the right, but this is off route. From the cave,
continue up and right to a small roof and a sharp jug out right.
Heave your way over onto the upper wall and to the ledge.
22
15 min
J
19
17
15
11m.
PUA
J
J
Lighthouse Area
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Drop Zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6b+ S0
35m+. This is the only way to access the lines on the lower wall
but makes a fun outing in its own right. This line is normally
finished just past the start of Rene Culo Superchulo where there
is a small shelf to rest. It is possible to continue to the other
side but this is rarely done. Watch out for the polish at the start.
.........
7b S2
12m. A hero's medal awaits anyone trying this one! A possible
continuation to Princess of Transilvania.
o Cris Rabbit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S2
12m. Some serious highball action and watch that ledge at the start.
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
14
Porto Colom
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Dominion Wall
Dominion Wall
Slightly further north of the lighthouse is the
hidden Dominion Wall. It is a great playground
and should be visited by any pioneer who
wishes to seek out further possibilities in the
area. With over 300+ metres of crag to explore
there is surely a classic or two here waiting to
be discovered. Take a rope and abseiling gear
as well as a dingy to explore the Dominion's
potential.
Approach - Drive through Porto Colom as if
approaching the lighthouse. As the road turns
head right up the left side of the bay (looking
out) to a dirt track heading north east. Follow
this to a rocky bay by the sea and a path along
the cliff edge. Park here and head through a
gate to the top to the hill. Continue until you can
see an easy way down the cliff to a platform.
Scramble down about 4m to a sloping ledge
leading down towards the sea. Continue down
and round to the right (looking out) to an easy
way down towards the sea. Traverse right
(looking in) back around the corner (now at a
lower level) towards the wall and the start of the
routes. All lines are reached by traversing along
Techno Mancore which is fairly easy at the
start. The only problem is the section beyond
Dominion Wall where you have to complete the
traverse.
Conditions - The wall is made up of sandstone
and limestone. It has not seen much traffic so
the top-out is still a bit loose in places.
Exit - Not too many problems here as a short
swim round the corner leads to a ledge and an
easy exit. Ropes are always advised for rough
conditions.
Exploration - For those seeking the future
realm, grab a dingy and head right (looking out
to sea) to explore this giant landscape. There is
one obvious area which is a large cave on the
left side of the wall (photo below). Remember
to check the water's depth if attempting any of
these lines.
1 Techno Mancore! . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
20m. The main way to access all the lines on this wall. Watch
out for those tricky bits near the end.
FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06
1c
2
2D 3D . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6b+ S0
17m. The first route to be put up on this wall. Make a diagonal
crossing past a large horn which you can sit on for a rest. The
rest is highball climbing on large jugs.
FA. Adam Lincoln 25.09.06
3 IMAX. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b+ S0
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena
Mi Primera Flinada Area
OPEA
PEF
5 min
15 min
3
5
4
11
7
8
12
10
9
13
14
2
1
2pc
4
The Camp Jogger . . . .
6c+ S0
16m. Probably the best line here. Traverse along Techno Mancore
to the bulging overhanging feature. Pumpy climbing on good
holds takes you up to a mini-roof section and on to victory.
FA. Adam Lincoln 25.09.06
8 Terra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
14m.
9 Guantanamo
14m.
5 Dominion Wall . . . . . . . . 1c 6b S1
18m. This line is very odd and quite adventurous. From the
platform, climb the left side of the face using a crack and various hidden jugs. When you reach the break, traverse right until
you reach an exit point up a shallow corner.
FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06
17m. Follow 2D 3D to the upper wall and make an airy traverse
out over the lip of this bulging feature and onto the nose. The
rest is easy.
............
c 7b S1
0 Mi Primera Flinada . . . . . .3c 6b S1
14m. An awesome route. Traverse to where the lower cave
begins and head up some super slopers and side-pulls to
reach the bulging upper wall. Power on to the top using some
humongous and ever-so-slightly sharp jugs.
q Banyada
8m.
...............
c 7b S0
Mi Primera Flinada Area
The routes from Espases to Mi Primera Flinada are definitely
worth seeking out. They feel a bit high at the top but are still
less than 15m. Banyada to Submarina need to have calm
conditions as it can get very wet at the start.
w Acuatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b+ S0
8m.
e Abugraib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b+ S0
9m.
r Submarina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b+ S0
9m.
FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06
15
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32
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena Tort Area
OEA
4 min
Cala Sa Nau
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Sa Nau is a small sandy cove, sheltered from the sea by two headlands, one of
which is home to an exciting DWS venue. The headland on the right (looking out) starts
quite small and offers one or two mid-grade lines. The crag increases in height further
right eventually leading to a large cave. This is where the hard routes are with their big fall
potential. The amazing Hupolup Kempf crosses the roof of the cave at the lofty grade of
8b. Further right, around the headland, is a small cove with a mini-cave at the back. This
is a good starter spot known as the 'Virgin Area'. The climbing is limited but it can keep
you entertained for a few hours with mostly short, mid-grade lines.
Approach
Way Down
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
From Felanitx, navigate your way around the one-way streets to find the PM-401
signposted to Porto Colom. Follow this to meet the road from Porto Cristo. Turn right,
keeping on the PM-401 to Porto Colom. When you eventually come to the junction, turn
left and then quickly make a right onto the PMV401-2 to Santanyi. Follow this to the little
village of S’Horta. Turn left, following signs to Cala Ferrera, and after a short distance is
a sign pointing to Cala Sa Nau on the left. Follow this road to its end and park. From the
narrow parking area, walk along the right-hand side of the bay until you reach some steps
cut into the rock. From here you can cut across right to reach the Virgin Area or continue
straight on to the Hupolup Kempf Cave.
Sa
Plana
Vella
PM401
Water Exit
Calas
de
Mallorca
PMV401-2
FELANITX
Es Domingos
Sant Salvador
Tort Area
The routes here all start off with wonderful holds, only to
deliver you at a blank upper section that may well see you in
the drink.
Approach - Either follow the way down the line drawn on the
topo, or traverse in from the Sosec area.
Exit - Normally back at the Sosec area, or a rope can be
installed as marked on the topo.
PM401
PORTO
C714
COLOM
PMV401-2
Cas Concos
Cala Marcal
S'Horta
Alqueria
Blanca
Cala Sa Nau
Crag
1 Romani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
C717
8m.
C717
Cala
d'Or
Cala Serena
Cala Ferrera
Cala Egos
2 Dimiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
8m.
3 Tort. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
8m.
4 BBC
8m.
..................
c 6b S0
Cala Sa Nau
5 Cantabrica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
8m.
Bounty Sector
6 Sa Multa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
Hupolup Cave
8m.
7 Espases. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
14m.
31
Mallorca DWS
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Dieter Werther on the three-star
line of Mi Primera Flinada 6b
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Virgin Area
Map not to scale
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Ged Desforges on Attack of the Killer
Spindly Fish 7a+. Photo: Steve Burdett.
Mallorca DWS
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16
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Sa Nau Virgin Area
OPUA
10 min
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena
Sosec Area
OEA
4 min
Bolt
7
4
8
Way Down
6
2
3
5
1
Virgin Area
Approach - Virgins Are Only Human is gained by a simple
down-climb and a little walk along a ledge until you start
climbing. Attack Of The Spindly Killer Fish to Little Fish are
traditionally approached from the water or by reversing Frogger.
Exit - Under the start of Virgins Are Only Human.
Conditions - Big holds but a little greasy when humid.
1 Virgins Are Only Human . 1c 6a+ S0
12m. Walk up the simple ramp until you reach the roof. Then
traverse out right and nip up the right side of the roof.
8 Little Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 5+ S2
15m. Start as for Frogger and make your way along the cliff
until you reach the sandy arete, which you finish up. Half way
through the traverse is a little cave. The climbing here is above
a small ledge, so take care!
FA. Heidi Spets Oct. 2004
6
There is also a line inside the cave (on the right-hand side),
which goes at 7a. Unfortunately this line is often damp, and has
not been included on the topo.
Broker
1
2
3
4
5
7
FA. Bernard Exley Oct. 2004
2 Attack of the Spindly Killer Fish
...................
2sc 7a+ S0
Maria Becerril getting to grips with
Frogger 4+. Photo: Daimon Beail
8m. Climb the arete on the right-hand side of the cave to a
break below the bulge. Move up and right to make some hard
moves over the bulge.
...........
Sosec Area
2c 6a S0
8m. Starting from the water ledge, make your way up to the
roof and find those hidden buckets, then power to the top.
FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004
4 I Tell Thee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 4+ S0
10m. Start as for Gen Lock and then make a rising traverse
right to the exit.
1c
1
Mapau. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6a+ S0
9m. Pocketed first half followed by an awesome crimp feast on
the top wall.
FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004
c
5
Water Exit
Tis is probably the most popular section of the crag. All the
routes are a good height and each one comes in two parts
- a pocketed lower wall and a thin and technical upper wall.
Approach - Climb down the rope from a bolt at the top of the
crag to the platform below (good place to stow some of your
gear). Continue down a gully on the rope to the start of The
Tortilla Traverse which leads to all the routes in this sector.
Exit - It is vital to install an exit rope before you start as it is
impossible to exit the water without it.
FA. Nic Ward June 2006
3 Gen Lock
Water Exit
Coldron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5 S0
8m. Start slightly right of I Tell Thee and make a direct ascent
of the wall to the same exit.
2 Vip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2c 6b+ S0
9m. A little more taxing and committing than Mapau.
FA. James Cole Oct. 2004
3 Rasputin . . . . . . . . . . . . 1c 6a S0
6 Frogger . . . . . . . . 2stc 4+ S1
4
2c
5 Mano Negra
2c
Sosec . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6a+ S0
8m. Easy climbing to the grove on the left side of the block.
.........
6c S0
8m. Long moves to the lip and some powerful climbing above
on sharp holds.
c
6
The Tortilla Traverse . . . . . . .
7a+ S0
80m+. Start at the bottom of the way down and traverse to
Vinga Bou in the Sa Fundacio Area. Climb up this or, alternatively, you swim back to the start. An average grade of 7a+ has
been given but it's so long that you deserve a 7b tick for sure.
FA. Many explorers and one recogniser on 29.09.06
7 Bag Puss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
14m. Straightforward climbing up a pocketed and crimpy wall.
The angle eases the higher you get.
FA. James Cole Sept. 06
9m. Large pockets take you to the thin upper wall which has
many golden crimps everywhere.
11m. Start from the same ledge as Coldron, traverse rightwards to the arete and then climb to the top. Watch out for the
little ledge below.
FA. Heidi Spets Oct. 2004
7 C++
..................
c 4+ S0
9m. Start as for Frogger, and then climb the faint arete.
FA. Peter Brown Oct. 2004
17
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30
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena Dreta and Meteoro Area
OEA
4 min
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Sa Nau
Hupolup Cave
OPUA
14 min
4
1
2
3
5
6
Way Down 2
1 Hupolup Kempf. . . 3fsc 8b S2
19m. Showing the way of things to come, Klem Loskot's testpiece goes up the right-hand side of the cave to the roof which
is then crossed using crimpy holds. Prepare yourself for some
serious air time.
FA. Klem Loskot 2003
2 The Weather Man - Left-hand Start
................
16
11
10
17
12
13 14
18
19
9m.
w Ali Muma Ye
9m.
............
c 6c S0
e Meteoro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
9m.
r Nomas
9m.
................
c 6a S0
t Aromes de Margrony. . . . . . . c 6a S0
3fsc
3
FA. Chris Sharma 2003
y Soller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
9m.
4 Vadage . . . . . . . . 1stc 7c S1
16m. Make a more direct ascent to the bulge and continue over
making some harder moves to reach easier ground.
1pc
8
Hupolup Kempf Cave
Hard and intimidating lines for the more daring deep water
soloers. Luckily, things ease off moving rightwards.
Descend - Either Way Down 1 which is a 4 scramble and
traverse off left (facing the rock) into the back side of the
cave. Or use Way Down 2 which is an easy 5.
Exit - Tricky in rough waters and should be avoided. In
calmer seas it is easy to clamber out directly under the
mouth of the large cave.
7 Scalfament
FA. Chris Sharma 2003
The Weather Man
8a+ S2
18m. Similar ground as Hupolup Kempf but at a slightly easier
grade. Nevertheless it requires an immense amount of mind
control when making those final moves to the jug.
15
Water Exit
q Alcaeda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
3fsc 8a+ S2
18m. A left-hand start to the next route.
7
.............
c 6a S1
18m. Follow the left-hand dark streak to the top.
8 Scalfament 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a+ S1
18m. Follow the right-hand dark streak to the top.
Bounty Sector
The Bounty Sector has an easy descent scramble (Way
Down 3) to reach Under a Dark Sky and a short down climb
slightly further along the crag is needed to access Bounty.
Exiting both lines is either done by a rope or a tricky climb
out of the cave.
9m.
u Es Baluart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a+ S0
Cheers Chartle . . . . . .
6c+ S0
9m. The bulging wall on chalked up pockets is a popular one.
The next two routes are at the north east end of the crag.
i Calvia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a+ S0
6 Wesatrocity . . . . . . . . . . 1c 6a+ S0
S0
14m. A good left-to-right traverse. Climb down into the scoop and
traverse the finger-rail to join the last part of Under a Dark Sky.
9m.
5
8m. The first line you come to just left of Way Down 2.
c
o
Broker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6a+ S0
9m. The last line on the large rail which belongs to the Sosec
area. From the large bucket power up on spaced holds to a thin
upper wall.
9 Bounty. . . . . . . . . . . . 1fc 6c
0 Under a Dark Sky . . . . . . 2c 6b
S0
11m. Climb up and left to a series of flutings and a break under
the roof. Move slightly left and over the lip on good holds.
Cala Sa Nau
9m. Climb the right-hand side of the tufa.
OPUA
Way Down 3
14 min
Way Down 2
Bounty Sector
9
Way Down 1
10
Way Down 3
Hupolup Sector
Map not to scale
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18
Cala Mitjana
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Down the coast from Cala Sa Nau is Cala Mitjana - a fantastic cliff of good height offering
a small range of steep mid-grade lines. There are two recorded lines in the 7s to challenge the more daring soloer. Cala Mitjana is only a 15-minute walk from the main cliff at
Cala Sa Nau and is easily recognisable from the ship-like mast which is situated on top
of the cliff. Several strong teams of climbers have visited the crag but unfortunately no
official record was made on these visits except for magazine articles and documentary film
footage. It is highly possible that there are a number of other lines on this crag, but until
these are declared, here is a selection for you to enjoy.
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena
Dreta and Meteoro Area
OEA
4 min
Approach
It is possible to drive to the bay of Cala Mitjana but it is quite difficult to access the crag.
Instead most people visit Mitjana on the same day they climb at Cala Sa Nau, since it is
only a short walk over the hill. From the Virgin Area at Cala Sa Nau (see page 17) head
up the hill with the sea on your left. At the top is the ship's mast - head for that.
Mega
3
2
1
Virgin Area
at
Cala Sa Nau
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Wall
4
The Dreta and Meteoro Areas
1
6
Cala Mitjana
Map not to scale
Calas
de
Mallorca
PMV401-2
FELANITX
Sa
Plana
Vella
PM401
Es Domingos
Sant Salvador
A fine selection of routes. If you are planning to spend a lot
of time here install a rope to use for descending to the base
as well as a rope to exit the sea. In this area it is easy to top
out by traversing right to the point above Noman where there
is only a small amount of vegetation to battle through.
Exit - The main water exit should be installed under the
Sosec Area. It is also possible to install and exit under Soller.
1 Setze Jutges
9m.
............
2 Mengen Fetge
PM401
PORTO
C714
COLOM
PMV401-2
Cas Concos
Alqueria
Blanca
Cala Sa Nau
Cala Mitjana
C717
C717
Cala
d'Or
3 Dolby
9m.
Cala Marcal
S'Horta
9m.
Crag
9m.
9m.
6 Dreta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
9m.
7 Coloms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0
9m.
8 Toques
9m.
...........
c 6b S0
................
c 6b S0
9 S’aixeta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
9m.
.................
4 Tot Petit
c 6b S0
5 Pop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
c 6b S0
0 Down
9m.
...............
.................
c 6b S0
c 7b S0
Cala Ferrera
Cala Egos
An Island classic, Illuminations 6b+.
19
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28
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena Tokio Area
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Mitjana
OPEA
OPEA
25 min
4 min
Easy Way Down
2
3
1
Water Exit
2
Cala Mitjana
Approach - There is an easy grade 4 down-climb 10m to the
right (looking in) of Illuminations. Then traverse for 10m to
the start of Illuminations. For Animal Magnetism abseil in to
the giant thread in the wall. Midnight Mast and Mitjana Party
are easily accessed by making a short down-climb (grade 3)
as marked on the topo and traversing right to a ledge.
Exit - To the left of the crag (as marked on the topo) which
requires a sharp but fairly easy climb.
To reach Rich Bitch down climb to the right of the route
(looking in) and then make a short traverse. There are many
exit points dotted around here.
1
3
4
5
Aspergilo Area
6
7
8
Around into the bay to the right is a small cliff. In the middle is
a small cave and above this is a line of pockets, leading up an
otherwise blank face.
6 Rich Bitch . . . . . . . . . . . 2c 7a S1
7m. Start just to the right of the hole at the back of the cave on
the ledge. Leap to the first pocket, and heave yourself up the
wall. Make a tricky move onto a small ledge and finish with a
few thin moves near the top.
FA. Ged Desforges June 2006
c
1
Midnight Mast . . . . . . . . . . .
6b+ S0
8m. Trickier than it looks. Needs some laybacking near the top.
Water Exit
Way Down
FA. 2002
sc
2
Tokio Area
The cave to the right of the Aspergilo Area also tends to have
a rope in place to exit the water. The line Tokio is a golden
gem to try with the tricky bit at the top to get your heart
pumping. Top-outs are the same as for the Aspergilo area.
1 Es Pate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
17m.
2 Es bol.leti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
13m.
3 Es Papa
10m.
...............
c 7b S0
4 Medalles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a+ S0
5 La Xina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
9m.
c
6
Tokio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6b+ S0
9m. From the right-hand side of the cave climb the overhanging
wall on big holds to reach the vertical wall. A few thin moves
and the odd mega pinch lead to a sloppy finish on the head of
a tufa. It is quite easy to just wander over onto Galactics at the
end which reduces the grade to 6b.
7 Galactics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
9m. Start just outside the cave and climb similar territory to
Tokio with an easier finish.
8 Mega
9m.
.................
c 6b S0
9m.
Mitjana Party. . . . . . . . .
7a+ S1
16m. Traverse rightwards to the bulge and up to the roof. Make
some tricky moves over the lip and power on to the top.
FA. 2002
5
3 Animal Magnetism . . . . . sc (8b+)
10m. Not yet climbed - a suggested grade of 8b+ has been
rumoured. Abseil down the cliff to a large thread and hook
your leg into it. Make some dynamic moves out left followed by
some shallow pockets to tackle the blank wall above.
3fc
4
Illuminations . . . . . . .
6b+ S0
9m. Probably the best line at Mitjana. Traverse left into a giant
side-pull which takes you straight into the crux. Gain the break
via some shallow pockets and continue up. Move left slightly
into a recess to a rest before continuing to the top.
4
3
FA. 2002
3fc
5
New Forms . . . . . . . .
6b+ S0
12m. Climb Illuminations to the break and traverse left for
about 4m until you see a pocketed line rising above you. Use
these to ride to the top. Another great line.
FA. 2002
27
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Cala Serena
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena is now the biggest venue on the Island, with almost 100 routes in total, most
of which consist of golden juggy walls low down, and thinner, technical sections near the
finish. It was developed, mostly by local Mallorcans, in 2003.
The cliffs rise to about 18m in places, but almost all the lines finish way below this mark
with a maximum fall of around 15m if you are unlucky. Topping out is generally a breeze
with most of the shorter lines finishing on some sort of a ledge. The rest of the climbing
to the top of the cliff is on easier-angled slabs (about grade 2 or 3). There are some more
vegetated top-outs but these can be avoided by heading down a rope to try other lines or
traversing to another section of the cliff.
Serena is not all good news. The left side of cliff (looking in) is sharp and grey. Most
people generally avoid this area, which is from Mallorca es Fonki to the start of the Adosat
Area. Another downside is that towards the late afternoon, hundreds of jellyfish have been
seen streaming by. This is not a constant feature, but something to watch out for.
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena
Aspergilo Area
OPEA
4 min
Safety - Water Exits
Before venturing onto any of the routes make sure you have a rope in place to get out of
the water since escaping is a big problem here. Also having an inflatable around is a good
idea. Some of the lines require you to ‘dry-bag it’ to an area, where there may be fixed
ropes but you may have to install the ropes yourself by traversing across to that area or
abseiling in. Water exits are marked on topos where it is possible to install a rope.
Sa Fundacio Cave
Approach
Cala Serena is very close to Cala Mitjana. So just follow the same direction as you would
for Cala Sa Nau (see page 16) to get to the village of S’Horta. Then follow signs for 'Cala
Ferrera' and continue on the main road (past the turning for Cala Sa Nau) to a roundabout. Take the second exit, and follow this to the end (where the road curves around to
the left and ends) - park here.
Walk down a driveway, which leads to an abandoned swimming pool overlooking the cliff
edge. This area is the remains of a closed holiday park, which is slowly being bought up
by private owners. It is very easy to just walk right across their land without realising it. But
generally where the grass is greener, that is private land.
Good behaviour is essential here especially around the entrance to the cliff top. The future
of Serena depends on it!
Calas
de
Mallorca
PMV401-2
FELANITX
Sa
Plana
Vella
PM401
Fe
n
Es Domingos
Sant Salvador
Vinga Bou
1
PM401
Cala Marcal
S'Horta
Alqueria
Blanca
4
Aspergilo Area
This is a great area to get stuck into if the lines out of the
caves are dry. There are usually ropes dangling in the water
from the cave where Manca and Les Ajudes start and most
people dry-bag it to this point. The tops have become overgrown, so either battle your way through the plant life to the
wall, and onto the top path, or head back down a rope, which
you fixed earlier from the top.
ce
1 Llet negra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
13m.
2 Aspergilo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S1
13m.
3 Manca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
13m.
4 Les Ajudes
13m.
.............
c 7a S0
PORTO
COLOM
PMV401-2
Cas Concos
3
Water Exit
C ala F e r r e r a
C714
2
C ala
S e r e na
Cala Serena
Area
Cala Sa Nau
Crag
C717
21
C717
Mallorca DWS
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d'Or
Cala Serena
Cala Ferrera
Cala Egos
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MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena Sa Fundacio Area
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena
Mallorca es Fonki and Bombas Area
OEA
PE&A
4 min
8 min
Way Down
Way Down
Way Down
4
7
2
6
3
2
8
9
5
1
15
10
3
11
12
13 14
16 17
18
19
20
1
4
Mallorca es Fonki and Bombas Area
Sa Fundacio Area
This cave is often damp and many of the routes seldom dry
out near the base. You may want to use a rope to gain the
starts and install one for exiting the water.
This area is generally avoided by most people due to the
short routes and sharp and brittle nature of the rock.
Approach - Most routes are generally easy to get to by down
climbing, either of the 'way down' lines drawn on the topo.
A rope is needed to exit the water so make sure one is in
place before attempting any of the lines here.
Heidi Spets, pulling hard on
one of Serena's many 6cs.
1 Chanelance . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
8m.
1 Diedre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
2 Vacaciones en el mar . . . . . . c 6c S0
12m.
8m.
c 7a S0
3 Mallorca es Fonki
........
c 6c S0
3 Bou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0
4 Escupe La Flema
.........
c 6c S0
5 Batalla de Cazalla
........
c 6b S0
2 Sa Fundacio
18m.
............
8m.
8m.
18m. Rumour has it that this one climbs the roof of the cave,
left to right on big holds!!
4 Vinga Bou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
8m.
18m.
6 Estilo Pancho Villa . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
9m.
7 La Escuela
9m.
.............
c 6c S0
8 Zafarrancho . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
8m.
9 Golpe Bajo
8m.
25
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c 6b S0
yyyyyyy
0 El Mas Fardon . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
8m.
q Tacon Cubano
7m.
...........
c 6b S0
w Pasate el microfono . . . . . . . c 6b S0
7m.
e Bombas
7m.
...............
r Sifon y jena
8m.
............
c 6b S0
c 6b S0
t Don Simon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
8m.
y La Manicura. . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
5m.
u La Corna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0
5m.
i Cap Torero Sense Banyas
5m.
...
c 6b S0
o Guais Estails . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
5m.
p Nora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
5m.
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
22
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena Adosat Area
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
Cala Serena
Adosat Area
OEA
6 min
C ala
S e r e na
Fen
ce
Adosat Area
Mallorca Es Fonki
to Bombas Area
Sa Fundacio
Area
7
Way Down
Aspergilo to
Sosec Area
3
Tort to Prest
Area
4
5
4 Vuitmil
8m.
Things begin to improve and the rock slowly turns to the
golden pocketed walls people are used to in Mallorca.
Approach (Routes 1 to 7 - next page) - Most routes are
generally easy to get to by down climbing, either of the 'way
down' lines drawn on the topo. A rope is needed to exit the
water so make sure one is in place before attempting any of
the lines here.
Exit - The right-hand side (looking in) of the cave entrance.
................
c 6b S1
5 Efecto Especial Verbal. . . . . . c 6b S0
Way Down
9
12
10 11
Water Exit
Map not to scale
Adosat Area
8
6
8m.
6 Toreros Muertos
10m.
.........
c 6b S0
Approach (Routes 8 to 12) - Walking south along the clifftop path you come to a set of stairs set away from the cliff
edge (photo right). These lead down to the entrance of the
cave which has bars across it. Squeeze through and carefully
follow the carved stone and concrete stairs to the bottom.
There is no need for a torch but go carefully and watch out
for one or two obstacles on the way and the glare of the sun
shining in.
7 Albornoz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
11m.
1 Anselm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
8 Mocs i Po . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
10m.
Way Down
17m.
2 Especula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
9 Moc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S2
10m.
10m.
3 Adosat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1
Path
10m.
0 Efecto Especial Verbal. . . . . . c 6b S0
6m.
OEA
6 min
q Toreros Muertos
6m.
.........
12
13
c 6b S0
w Mini Me. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0
6m.
Way Down
Way Down
3
2
1
Nora
Serena's cliffs are a perfect height for deep water soloing and jumping off if things get too hot. Photo: Andrew Chapman
23
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
Registered to eo
rdo
REF y
yyyyyyy
Registered to eo
rdo
REF y
yyyyyyy
Mallorca DWS
Version 2.0 - July 2008
24
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