Design Capsule S/S 21: Men & Young Men
Stay Home Style
@labr umlo nd o n
Use the lockdown to drive change in your design development approach. New
work-life habits combine comfort and chic for a #minimalist approach to WFH
Mr Po r t er
Action Points
With Covid-19 making normal working patterns a
thing of the past, successful brands adapt, creating
easy-to-wear capsule collections that prioritise
comfort, but not at the cost of looking stylish.
Minimalism works well for #stayhomestyle, so no
need to go over-the-top. Our Coronavirus: Design
Priorities report helps to outline the bigger picture.
1. As we adjust to cocooning, what we put next to
our skin is important. Opt for natural fabrics and
finishes for comfort in the home, as technical
fabrics feel even more relevant outdoors.
2. As we spend more time in our personal space,
our wardrobes need to sit well with the decisions
we make about sustainability around our
furniture, food and possessions.
3. An eco-awareness points towards a palette
sympathetic to sustainable dyes and unbleached,
raw materials, so source them and promote their
qualities.
4. Videoconferencing will entail some smarter
outfits, especially tops. Keep designs simple, but
with the odd focal point – plackets, pleats and
feature pockets are key.
Mr Po r t er
Mood & Colour
036-89-06
11-0103 TC X
049-66-05
16-0110 TC X
@lemair e_ o f f icial
016-66-05
16-1506 TC X
030-67-08
15-1304 TC X
A-Co ld -Wall
@labr umlo nd o n
E r menegild o Z egna
024-57-21
16-1332 TC X
082-43-10
18-5308 TC X
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Mat ches Fashio n
Coloro / Pantone
Why? The urge for living simply manifests in
natural fabrics, vegetable dyes and less
structured shapes. The timeless style of
designers such as Lemaire, AMI and
Jacquemus provides inspiration. Meanwhile,
an imposed period of reflection leads to
conscious creating.
How? Use this time to rethink your
processes and future-proof your brand.
Blend smart and casual workwear themes to
create a modern wardrobe. Contrast dark
shades with cosmetic tones and indigo
hues.
Drop: Spring
Boxy,
Detailed Tee
LN -CC/ O ur Legacy
@d eveauxnewy o r k
Bo xy , Det ailed T ee
Elevating this item and taking it far from its
undergarment roots is the whole point. In
almost every aspect, the T-shirt is changed,
from a boxier (cropped, wider) shape to deeper
ribbed trims and more deeply set twin-stitch.
Use mercerised cottons or sustainable options
such as bamboo, and consider biodegradable
credentials. This piece should be well finished
and delicately coloured, fit for dressing up as
well as down. Easy jersey pieces are more
relevant than shirts within this modern
workwear capsule.
T imo Weiland
S unspel x N . H o o ly wo o d
Cut & Sew
Henley Top
N anamica
Mat ches Fashio n/
Bar ena
Cut & S ew H enley T o p
Cut-and-sew pieces that have a premium feel
continue to facilitate the blurring of smart and
casual boundaries. Although stretch fabrics
have evolved, the shirt can still feel like a hard
border between work and the weekend. A longsleeved tee with neckline detail works well with
unstructured tailoring and is a great vehicle
for colour, too. Massimo Alba uses chemicalfree pigments, which also lend the fabric an
extra-soft handle.
Source natural materials such as corozo or
mother of pearl for buttons.
Z egna x Fear O f Go d
Mat ches Fashio n/ Massimo Alba
Pleat Detail
Slouchy Trouser
Mat ches Fashio n/ AMI
Jacq uemus
Taking the smart jogger further away from its
sporty origins, this piece retains an elasticated
waistband, but isn't cuffed.
Textured natural fabrics that promote organic
qualities are key, with linen and organic cotton
blends relevant as options with low
environmental impact. The base will blur the
line between woven and knitted fabrics.
Mat ches Fashio n/
S t ud io N icho lso n
Pleat Det ail S lo uchy
T r o user
Mat ches Fashio n/
Mar r akshi Lif e
The pleated front is a simple design focus,
while the cropped length and wider leg feel
modern. The working fly is another move away
from sweatpant territory.
Wide-Leg Short
Mat ches Fashio n/
S t ud io N icho lso n
LN -CC/ Acne
Wid e-Leg S ho r t
These boxy shorts have been an important
shape for catwalk designers and premium
brands for a couple of seasons, and their
simple utility is winning them more
mainstream approval. The trend for
#utilitydetails means this item starts to look
more like a must-have.
Mat ches Fashio n/ É d it io ns
MR
Fo lgar o las T ext il
Pick out #enhancedneutral shades and source
deadstock trims or explore bio-plastic
compositions, as developed by SAB. New
natural finishes make natural (cotton/linen)
bases a viable alternative to synthetics.
Knitted fabrics deliver ease and comfort.
Smart Blouson
Mat ches Fashio n/
O d y see
Mat ches Fashio n/
S t ud io N icho lso n
S mar t Blo uso n
This piece works excellently as a standalone
item or part of a semi-formal matching set due
to its ability to look casual or smart. Use
#gentleretro styling for timeless appeal and
lean into #enhancedneutrals for masculine,
but not boring shades.
Drape and sheen are key to make this item feel
stylish and flattering, so choose worsted wools
with viscose or similar.
Our A/W 21/22 Details & Trims report
provides inspiration for recycled trims – start
to act with capsule collections like this.
Paul S mit h
@labr umlo nd o n
The Not-So-Classic Mac
Mat ches Fashio n/
S t ud io N icho lso n
Mat ches Fashio n/ APC
The minimalist theme is highlighted here, so no need for extraneous
detail. See your customer through life's daily routines with little tweaks,
such as accessible gadget pockets and collar or hood details built
for sudden downpours as welcome design features on an otherwise
classic shape.
Mat ches Fashio n/
É d it io ns MR
T he N o t -S o -Classic Mac
Consumers understand sustainability in clothing manufacturing better
than ever, so look into elements you can market to them. Use eco
finishes on natural fabrics, source recycled trims, zippers, tapes, cords
and natural alternatives, such as corozo for buttons. Enable circular
design principles by using mono-material components applicable to
outerwear, helping better end-of-life recyclability.
Range Plan
Cut & Sew Henley Top
Boxy, Detailed Tee
Smart Blouson
Pleat Detail Slouchy Trouser
Wide-Leg Short
Not-So-Classic-Mac
Influences
3 A-Cold-Wall
Samuel Ross cannily takes his
London-based brand out of the
streetwear dead end and into
sartorial territory. Cue shirts
that aren't dad-style or
normcore.
2 Hay
1 Paul Smith
As well as a crop of less-established
designers, this theme resounded in
Paul Smith's A/W 20/21 collection. Sir
Paul's long-time understanding of
men's lifestyles is in sharp focus now.
The Danish design company lives and
breathes the close relationship
between well-designed homeware and
a calming space to work and play in.