Experience what Batanes has to offer from the mighty stone houses covered by the rich
Ivatan Culture to the natural attractions that will surely satisfy the nature lovers.
With it’s capital: Basco Batan, the province has a total area of 219.01 square kilometres
(84.56 sq mi) comprising ten islands situated within the Luzon Strait between the
Balintang Channel and Taiwan. The islands are sparsely populated and subject to
frequent typhoons. The three largest islands Batan, Itbayat, and Sabtang, are the only
inhabited islands.
All in all, there were also 6 municipalities in the province: Basco, Itbayat, Ivana, Mahatao,
Sabtang, and Uyuganin comprising a total of 29 barangays.
Batanes Island is the best place to escape from the busy life in Manila and other cities.
Capital: Basco, Batan
Values[edit]
The Ivatan people of Batanes are one of the most egalitarian societies in the Philippines. The prime
motivator of the cultural values of the Ivatans are imbibed in their pre-colonial belief systems of
respecting nature and all people. The Ivatans, both the older and younger generations, have one of
the highest incidences of social acceptance to minority groups in the country. The Ivatans also have
a high respect for the elderly and the prowess of natural phenomena such as waves, sea breeze,
lightning, thunders, earthquakes, and wildlife congregations. Discriminating someone based on skin
color, ethnic origin, sexual orientation, gender identity, age, and traditions on nature is unacceptable
in Ivatan values. Land grabbing is also a grave crime in Ivatan societies, making ancestral domain
certification an important part of Ivatan jurisprudence since the enactment of the IPRA Law
Where to Stay
For now, there are enough rooms to let in Batanes. We had the pleasure of staying in three
different lodgings while we were in the province. While our Sabtang trip was meant to be a
day tour, the boatman refused to return to Batan because the waves were really getting
rough so we ended up staying the night at the Municipal Guesthouse by Sabtang port.
Arranged by BCTA, we had a rather spartan room of two single beds with the window
opening to the ocean. With the windows left open to let the cool ocean air in, we slept quite
soundly under a blanket.
On the second night, we ended up staying at the clean and convenient Batanes Seaside
Lodge and Restaurant in Basco on the main island, run by the very efficient Ms. Lydia
Roberto, it is perfect for groups. Batanes Seaside boasts of being the official lodging place of
film crews who shot the film Batanes and if I am not mistaken was also the base for the film
Hihintayin Kita Sa Langit, a Tagalog adaptation of the film Wuthering Heights.
Where & What to Eat
Before coming to Batanes, we had no idea of the local cuisine and we did not know what to
expect except that we asked BCTA to make sure we get authentic Ivatan fare all throughout
our stay. And we did.
Luñis
Photo by Dave Ryan
Sabtang is perhaps known for Tatus, the local name for the Coconut Crabs. While I could
not verify whether it is an endangered animal, the locals said that during the cold season,
the crabs hide and are harder to catch and while we were in Sabtang, apparently we ate the
last coconut crab on the island for the season. We do not support eating of endangered
animals, and unfortunately we weren’t informed that it is now included among the list of
threatened species and taking the Tatus out of Batanes is strictly prohibited. Skip this one
out if you can. The crab gets its diet from eating coconuts thus its name, while the meat in
its pincers is very difficult to get, the fat was incredibly creamy and has the slight coconut
aftertaste. Also in Sabtang, we had grilled Kanañiz, which is literally a squid which is
tougher and thicker than what we are used to eating. If you have sensitive teeth, you may
want to pass over the Kanañiz.
Tugi
Photo by Dave Ryan
While dry and a little too crunchy, Luñis or Adobo Ivatan Style was a tasty twist on this
famous Philippine dish. Instead of the usual vinegar, soy and herbs marinade, the Luñis only
uses salt and is cooked until dry. Due to the unpredictable weather in Batanes, the Ivatans
learned to do preserving techniques for their food to last them during the stormy months.
We also had Puhug (Winged Beans or Sigarilyas in Tagalog) mixed with meat which was
well cooked and all fresh and Tuhos nu Wakay (Camote Tops/ Talbos ng Kamote) sautéed in
garlic which was rather clean tasting compared to the ones in Luzon. I was never a fan of
the Luzon variety of Camote Tops, but I could not have stopped myself eating my veggies in
Batanes. After all, Ivatans don’t use chemical fertilizers or pesticides- everything is organic!
Hapa, Ivatan Style Laing
Photo by Dave Ryan
At Rakuh-a-Payaman, we had a massive lunch and extremely delicious too. We almost
devoured everything on the table (save for the plates and the cutlery). BCTA prepared such
delectable Ivatan food that we are still wistfully thinking of it until this day. Aside from rice,
Batanes main staple is root crops which better survive the sometimes harsh weather
conditions. This is exemplified with root crop dishes such as the boiled tugi (yam) and the
venes, (dried stalks of taro) where the venes is shredded and mixed with meat like beef or
pork. Of course there is the hapa, an Ivatan twist to the Bicolano laing where fresh stalks of
taro are cooked in fresh coconut milk and sprinkled with tiny dried fish on top, and with the
Ivatan classic turmeric rice, it was just heavenly. Interestingly, the Ivatans also grill pork
the way I used to, just rub the pork with sea salt and then grill it over charcoal. It gives the
meat a more natural flavor and when dipped in spiced silam, (the Ivatan sugarcane vinegar)
it is pure joy.
We also loved the fried dibang (flying fish, I guess the fish wasn’t quick enough as he
landed on my plate) for breakfast at Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant. Try the arayu
(mahi-mahi) as well, which is always freshly caught from the seas surrounding the province.
We were on our way back to Batan when we had to stop in the middle of the ocean when
one of the passengers caught two big arayus.
For those with a sweet tooth, try their own version if uvi halaya which is a mixture of uvi
(yam), dukay, and sugar cooked in fresh coconut milk.
To cap the meal, either fresh coconut juice or a warm Ivatan spirit, the palek, Batanes’
answer to the Ilocos basi (sugarcane wine) is always a great way to finish the meal. For the
aged version, try the Minyuvaheng which is dark in color and the Mavaheng which is black.
Basco Airport Terminal Building
Photo by Dave Ryan
A Batanes Faluwa
Photo by Dave Ryan
Prepare to walk around town as there is a dearth of public transportation on all the islands
(especially in Itbayat where there still no public transportation). Otherwise, you may want
to arrange with your travel agent beforehand so that vans may be provided
Getting There
The fastest way of going to Batanes is of course by plane and if coming from Manila, it’ll only take less than 2 hours. Local
airlines who cater Batanes flights include Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific, Sky Jet, Sky Pasada, Wakay Air and Platinum Skies.
There are two airports in Batanes: Basco Airport on Batan Island and Itbayat Airport on Itbayat Island. The first airport is the
main gateway to the province and by that the town center is just a short walk away.
Transportation
Tour prices vary in Batanes. Whether you’re taking a van tour or tricy tour. You’ll have to coordinate with your tour provider or
have it fixed upon arriving, your homestay can also help you with this. You can also rent bicycles in exploring through towns and
hills. If you also wish to go to a specific place within an island, e.g. restaurant, coffee shop or pizza shop-all are local, you can
rent a tricycle.
Best Time to Visit
Depending on which weather you are after, Batanes is a good year round destination, save for the stormy months of July –
September. The weather is cool, with the coldest months around December to February when the temperatures drop down to as
low as 7C-10C. During the summer months from March to June, the seas are calmer, and trips to other islands are easier. When
traveling to Batanes however, you must have a very flexible schedule as flights and boat trips can get canceled at the last
minute. If you intend to travel and sufficiently cover most of the main destinations just for Sabtang and Batan, a 4 day trip can
suffice, if you wish to head out to Itbayat as well, you may as well make sure that you stay there for a week. But trust us, once
you get to Batanes, you actually won’t want to leave.
Where to stay
Batanes has several hotels, inns, lodges, hostels and home-stay facilities that you could choose from.
One of recommended accomodation is the Fundacion Pacita Batanes Nature Lodge.
Batan Island
1.
Photo by Bingbing via Wikimedia Commons
Basco Lighthouse
This six-story-tall lighthouse is one of Basco's most renowned landmarks. Together with the
lighthouses of Sabtang and Mahatao towns, it was constructed by the former congressman of
Batanes. Basco Lighthouse was the first to be finished in 2003.
2. Diura Fishing Village
Not far from the Mahatao town proper is the Diura Village. The community's primary livelihood is
fishing and to kick off the beginning of fishing season, its members perform the age-old ritual they
call kapayvanuvanu in the hopes of a bountiful catch. If you want to witness this amazing ritual
performed, you might want to time your visit in March or April.
3. San Carlos Borromeo Church
Photo by KisekiLacroix via Wikimedia Commons
Mahatao's parish church is declared as a National Cultural Treasure in 2001 due to its architectural
prowess and impressive state of preservation. Built during the Spanish colonial era, it is made of
stone and lime and set in the Baroque architecture style.
4. House of Dakay
Photo by The Official Website of the Provincial Government of Batanes
If you want to see the oldest stone house ever to be constructed in the entire province, then House
of Dakay is worth visiting. This stone house has retained its original foundation, with its cogon roof
replaced every few decades.
5. Honesty Coffee Shop
Photo by Lino Jubilan, Jr.
Perhaps Batanes' best known example of its low crime rate is the Honesty Coffee Shop. This novelty
café does not have any cashier or staff and instead banks on people's honesty to pay for the coffee
and goods that they got from the store.
6. Rakuh a Payaman (Marlboro Hills)
Photo by Greenthumb331 via Flickr Creative Commons
Featuring rolling grasslands and an amazing view of the coast, Rakuh a Payaman is one of the most
beautiful sights in Batanes. It is often referred to as Marlboro Hills or Marlboro Country by many
locals and travelers.
8. Valugan Boulder Beach
Photo by Allan Ascana via Flickr Creative Commons
Batanes has numerous beaches but what makes Valugan Beach unique from others is its shore,
which is dotted with smooth volcanic rocks. Swimming is not recommended because of the
monstrous waves, but it remains a sight to behold. This magnificent beach faces the Pacific Ocean.
9. Fundacion Pacita
Photo by tharty via Flickr Creative Commons
Pacita Abad is a world-renowned painter who hails from Basco. Fundacion Pacita was once her
home studio and is now a hotel. Adorned by her artworks as well as of other artists, the homey
accommodation sits atop a hill and gives way to an amazing landscape and seascape view.
10. Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel
For a touch of history on your tour, make sure to visit the Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel. Built
during World War II by locals, this interconnected network of tunnels served as a hideaway for
Japanese soldiers.
11. Tukon Church
This small but beautiful church was constructed by local artisans in the style of the traditional Ivatan
stone house. Also known as Mt. Carmel Church, its façade and interiors are adorned by religious
artworks that were crafted by local artists.
12. Mahatao Hedgerows
Photo by bingbing via Wikimedia Commons
The stunning pattern of tall crops known as liveng that surround Mahatao's farm fields not only
makes for a remarkable and picture-perfect sight, but also protects the locals' produce from
destruction brought on by wild animals as well as unfavorable weather and other bad environmental
conditions.
14. Ruins of Songsong
Photo by anne_jimenez via Flickr Creative Commons
Barangay Songsong in Uyugan was ravaged by a tsunami in the 1950s and as a result, buildings
and homes were destroyed, forcing the locals to relocate. Now a ghost town, Sonsong features
various ruins that serve as reminders of its past.
15. Vayang Rolling Hills
Another iconic attraction in Batanes is the Vayang Rolling Hills, which will entice you to sing like Julie
Andrews in the Sound of Music. You can also expect an impressive view of the West Philippine Sea.
Sabtang Island
16. Savidug Village
Photo by Iris Emata
Savidug Village is one of two villages in Sabtang Island known for their traditional stone houses. This
destination is ideal for those who want to know more about the unique architectural styles and other
customs of the native people of Batanes.
17. Chavayan Village
Chavayan Village is another village that was able to preserve and continue the tradition of living in
stone houses in Batanes. The locals have a shop here where you can rent or purchase various
handcrafted items including the vakul, the traditional Ivatan headdress.
18. Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint
Photo by Greenthumb331 Wikimedia Commons
It seems that Batanes does not run out of rolling hills. Chamantad Tinyan Viewpoint, much like
Marlboro Hills and Vayang Hills, also has rugged pastures and features a view of the gorgeous
Sabtang coast.
19. Nakabuang Beach and Mahayaw Arch
Photo by Jcabatuan via Wikimedia Commons
Batanes also has its own white sand beach. Nakabuang Beach, also known as Morong Beach,
features majestic waters and a shoreline dotted with powdery white sand. A special feature of the
beach is the Mahayaw Arch, a natural geological formation that is truly Instagrammable.
21. Sabtang Lighthouse
Photo by Allan Ascano via Flickr Creative Commons
Greeting tourists as they arrive at Sabtang Port is Sabtang's very own lighthouse. Out of the three
lighthouses in Batanes, it is the only one not located in Batan Island.
22. Chawa Viewdeck
If you haven't had enough of seeing views of the coast, then Chawa Viewdeck is an attraction that is
not to be missed. Feel the adrenaline as you hike to the top and be rewarded with the breathtaking
view of the West Philippine Sea when you get there.
Itbayat Island
23. Torongan Cave
Photo by Rodrigo C. Yap
Torongan Cave gives you a taste of adventure in Itbayat Island. A one-to-two-hour hike leads you to
this amazing cave filled with interesting formations and archeological finds.
24. Rapang Cliff
Photo by Rodrigo C. Yap
If the trek to Torongan Cave is not enough to satisfy your craving for adrenaline, then maybe the
hike to Rapang Cliff might. This beautiful spot allows you to encounter nature and wildlife like the
grazing animals of the locals.
25. Ivatan Burial Mound
Photo by Wilbert Gonzales
At the top of the Torongan Hill is a boat-shaped burial marker, which is believed to be the burial
grounds of the ancient Ivatan settlers. It can be attributed to the indigenous Ivatan's belief that their
final resting place is the sea.
Lifestyle and values
When it comes to lifestyle, the typical way of life in Batanes is very old fashioned. Locals dont depend on
technology too much in their everyday lives and their majority human life span would reach 90+. Batanes
is also close to zero pollution and has 0% crime rate.
The Ivatan people of Batanes are one of the most egalitarian societies in the Philippines. The prime
motivator of the cultural values of the Ivatans are imbibed in their pre-colonial belief systems of
respecting nature and all people. The Ivatans, both the older and younger generations, have one of the
highest incidences of social acceptance to minority groups in the country. The Ivatans also have a high
respect for the elderly and the prowess of natural phenomena such as waves, sea breeze, lightning,
thunders, earthquakes, and wildlife congregations. Discriminating someone based on skin color, ethnic
origin, sexual orientation, gender identity, age, and traditions on nature is unacceptable in Ivatan
values. Land grabbing is also a grave crime in Ivatan societies, making ancestral domain certification an
important part of Ivatan jurisprudence since the enactment of the IPRA Law.
ENTERTAINMENT
Batanes is heaven for photographers and videographers. A lot of prenuptial shoot sand
weddings happend in the island of chain.
There are no movie houses, nor malls in Batanes and that is a good thing because people will
only get close to nature and the simplest form of living. Network signal for mobile data is also
very weak in all the island, so you might as well leave your phone in you bag and enjoy the
breathetaking view with no distraction but if access to email or browsing the internet is very
urgent, there is still an internet café available in town.