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Home  Finishing 
Types of Dyes – classi⑉�cation based on
chemical structure
List of different dyes and chemical used in textile ⑉�nishing
The Dyes are classi⑉�ed based on the ⑉�bers to which they can be applied and the chemical nature of
each dye. Dyes are complex unsaturated aromatic compounds ful⑉�lling characteristics like intense
color, solubility, Substantiveness, and fastness. Dyes can be de⑉�ned as the different type of coloring
particles which differ in each type from the other in chemical composition and are used for coloring
fabrics in different colors and shades which are completely soluble in liquid media.
By Textile School
Last updated Feb 21, 2019
FINISHING
PRINTING/DYEING
https://www.�ickr.com/photos/nrdc_media/5009249315
Type of Printing Dyes
Dyes may be classi⑉�ed in several ways (e.g., according to the chemical constitution, application
class, end-use). The primary classi⑉�cation of dyes is based on the ⑉�bers to which they can be
applied and the chemical nature of each dye. Table 6 lists the major dye classes, ⑉�xation rates,
and the types of ⑉�bers for which they have an a⑉�nity. Factors that companies consider when
selecting a dye include the type of ⑉�bers being dyed, desired shade, dyeing uniformity, and
fastness (desired stability or resistance of stock or colorants to in�uences such as light, alkali,
etc) (FFTA, 1991).
Most commonly in use, today are the reactive and direct types for cotton dyeing, and disperse
types for polyester dyeing. Reactive dyes react with ⑉�ber molecules to form chemical bonds.
Direct dyes can color fabric directly with one operation and without the aid of an a⑉�xing agent.
Direct dyes are the simplest dyes to apply and the cheapest in their initial and application costs
although there are tradeoffs in the dyes’ shade range and wet fastness (Corbman, 1975).
Direct and reactive dyes have a ⑉�xation rate of 90 to 95 percent and 60 to 90 percent,
respectively. A variety of auxiliary chemicals may be used during dyeing to assist in dye
absorption and ⑉�xation into the ⑉�bers. Disperse dyes, with ⑉�xation rates of 80 to 90 percent,
require additional factors, such as dye carriers, pressure, and heat, to penetrate synthetic ⑉�bers
(Snowden-Swan, 1995; ATMI, 1997). Disperse dyes are dispersed in water where the dyes are
dissolved into ⑉�bers. Vat dyes, such as indigo, are also commonly used for cotton and other
cellulosic ⑉�bers.
Characteristics of Textile Dyes
Dye
Class
Acid
Description
Method
water-soluble
anionic compounds
Exhaust/ Beck/
Continuous
(carpet)
Fibers
Typically
Applied to
Typical
Fixation
(%)
wool,
nylon
80-93
Typical
Pollutants
Associated
with
Various
Dyes
color;
organic
acids;
un⑉�xed
dyes
Dye
Class
Fibers
Typically
Applied to
Typical
Fixation
(%)
Typical
Pollutants
Associated
with
Various
Dyes
Description
Method
Basic
water-soluble,
applied in weakly
acidic dyebaths;
very bright dyes
Exhaust/ Beck
acrylic,
some
polyesters
97-98
N/A
Direct
water-soluble,
anionic
compounds;can be
applied directly to
cellulosics without
mordants (or metals
like chromium and
copper)
Exhaust/
Beck/Continuous
cotton,
rayon,
other
cellulosics
70-95
color; salt;
un⑉�xed dye;
cationic
⑉�xing
agents;
surfactant;
defoamer;
leveling and
retarding
agents;
⑉�nish;
diluents
Fibers
Typically
Applied to
Typical
Fixation
(%)
Typical
Pollutants
Associated
with
Various
Dyes
Dye
Class
Description
Method
Disperse
not water-soluble
High temperature
exhaust
Continuous
polyester,
acetate,
other
synthetics
80-92
color;
organic
acids;
carriers;
leveling
agents;
phosphates;
defoamers;
lubricants;
dispersants;
delustrants;
diluents
Reactive
water-soluble,
anionic compounds;
largest dye class
Exhaust/ Beck
Cold pad batch/
Continuous
cotton,
other
cellulosics,
wool
60-90
color; salt;
alkali;
un⑉�xed dye;
surfactants;
defoamer;
diluents;
⑉�nish
Dye
Class
Fibers
Typically
Applied to
Typical
Fixation
(%)
Typical
Pollutants
Associated
with
Various
Dyes
Description
Method
Sulfur
organic compounds
containing sulfur or
sodium sul⑉�de
Continuous
cotton,
other
cellulosics
60-70
color; alkali;
oxidizing
agent;
reducing
agent;
un⑉�xed dye
Vat
oldest dyes; more
chemically complex;
water-insoluble
Exhaust/Package/
Continous
cotton,
other
cellulosics
80-95
color; alkali;
oxidizing
agents;
reducing
agents

coloring
dye
dyeing
�nishing
Textile School
printing
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2 Comments
Colin Says
 2 years ago
dye it so messy if you get it on youre skin
Textile Apex Says
 5 years ago
To be a Dyeing master, it is necessary to know about the dye classi⑉�cation. This post will help to know about
dyes and its classi⑉�cation. The students as well as the Teachers will be bene⑉�ted from it. Thanks for sharing the
post.
Textile Apex – A blog site on Textile and Apparel
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