Uploaded by Rudy Radman

790 bashplate installation instructions

KTM 790 Adventure Engine Protection Plate
Installation Instructions
Only competent persons should attempt to install this skidplate. If in doubt, ask, or find a suitably qualified and
experienced person to undertake the work.
It’s possible that this skidplate could suppress the loudness of the horn. Verify that it’s sufficiently loud after fitting the
This plate will not make your bike indestructible! Inevitably it’s only as strong as what it’s mounted to, and is designed
to be a sensible compromise between lightness and strength. If you hit it hard enough, something will break!
This plate is incompatible with a centre‐stand.
If mud builds up on the front of the plate, blocking vent holes, overheating may result. Clear any build‐up of mud or
other debris.
Regularly check fixings for tightness.
Check all parts are present. You should have:
a. One aluminium skidplate
b. One black powder‐coated steel hanger bracket
c. 4 off – M6 x 16 socket‐head cap screw (stainless)
d. 4 off – M6 plain washer (stainless)
e. 6 off – M8 x 16 countersunk socket‐head screws (stainless)
Remove both tank guards from the bike. You will re‐use the three screws each side, but don’t need the nut on the
lower screw. Note that there’s no need to remove the screw into the rubber block that slots into the fuel tank, just pull
the tank guard firmly downwards and the block will come away still attached to the tank guard.
Remove the existing sump guard. Four screws at front, and the two rear screws to the underside only need be
Unscrew the two rear rubber mounting bushes from the engine. You won’t be re‐using these!
Loosen screws (1) as shown, one each side (Torx T45).
Right side view
Left side view
Remove the lower screws (2), one each side (Torx T45), and remove the 20∅ x 25mm long bushings (3) behind.
Install the steel hanger bracket in place of the two bushes (fingers pointing forwards). Apply some Loctite®243™ or
similar threadlocker to the screws (2) removed in the previous step and reinsert, but do not tighten yet.
If the bolt etc (4) of the exhaust joint clamp appears lower than the bottom of the hanger bracket, rotate it slightly so
that the joint of the clamp is in a higher position.
Attach the new skidplate to the bike at the front using the four M6 screws and flat washers provided. Do not tighten.
Be sure to avoid pinching the fuel tank balance pipe!
10. Fix the skidplate to the hanger bracket using one M8 countersink screw in the hole nearest the right‐hand bushing.
11. IMPORTANT! It is very unlikely that the holes will align between bracket and plate, due to large tolerances when the
bike was assembled in the factory and the bushings commonly being slightly offset. Don’t panic! We need to:
Loosen the swingarm left‐hand pivot bolt (5) slightly (it will be tight!) (Torx T50).
Using a rubber mallet, tap the LH footpeg and/or kickstand mount until the screw‐holes in the bracket and
plate align. Typically this will need a slight tap towards the rear of the motorcycle:
If alignment is still not possible, it could be necessary to loosen the RH side footpeg bracket mounting screws
also, but this is not usually required.
12. When the holes align, insert the remaining five M8 screws and tighten all six. You may wish to apply some copper
grease or similar to these screws.
13. Tighten the front four screws fixing the skidplate.
14. Tighten the swingarm pivot bolt. Torque to 100 Nm (73 .8 lbf ft). (Torx T50)
15. Tighten all four lower screws (loosened and removed in steps 4 and 5). Torque to 45 Nm (33.2 lbf ft). KTM specifies
Loctite®243™, but you may judge that the screw that was only loosened still has sufficient un‐hardened threadlocker.
16. Replace the tank guards using the existing screws. Note that the nut on the lower one is no longer required, as the hole
is threaded.
17. Clean off any grubby grease and finger marks from the plate using brake cleaner or similar.
18. You’re finished. Happy Riding!
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