L.A. BRA
TRAINING
CUP GRADING
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2
Basic Soft Bra Grading
Following on from Size Grading, we can now look at the
principle of cup grading and cross grading.
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Bra Grading Principles
Cup grading is used when making different cup
sizes within a band size
e.g. 34B - 34C - 34D
The under band remains the same length, the front
of the bra increases by 25mm, but the back must be
reduced by 25mm
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Cup Grading
Example 34B - 34C
The under band length will remain the same as we are grading
within the same band size, ie 34
0cm increase
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Cup Grading
The cradle must increase to allow for the increased
cup size but the wing must decrease to maintain the
same band size
-1.25cm
+1.25cm
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Cup Grading
The cup section is graded one size larger, 34B - 34C
+1.25cm
+1.25cm
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Cross Grading
Current industrial bra
sizing is largely based on a
system called Cross
grading. The essence of
this system is that the
complete front of the bra is
an exact copy of other bra
sizes; eg 34B = 36A = 32C
=30D
A
B
C
D
E
F
32A
34A
36A
38A
40A
42A
32B
34B
36B
38B
40B
42B
32C
34C
36C
38C
40C
42C
32D
34D
36D
38D
40D
42D
32DD
34DD
36DD
38D
40DD
42DD
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2
3
4
5
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Cross Grading
All wing patterns are unique and cannot be crossgraded. The basic soft bra 34B Wing can only be used
with the 34B front patterns it was created for.
Therefore ALL graded bra patterns will have their own
wing that corresponds to the rest of the pattern, the
cradle, cup etc.
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Cup Grading
As before, with all grading it is important that
you check the accuracy of the base pattern:
Key areas of consideration are;
1. Check the first pattern before grading
2. Accurate drafting
3. Sympathy (to block pattern shape)
4. Accuracy of measurement
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Grading Principles
+3mm
Example 34B - 34C
Bottom cup will increase by
3mm at P.O.B.
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Grading Principles
+3mm
+3mm
Example 34B - 34C
Bottom cup will increase by
3mm at base.
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Grading Principles
+3mm
+6mm
+3mm
Example 34B - 34C
Bottom cup will increase by
6mm at underarm side.
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Grading Principles
+3mm
+6mm
Example 34B - 34C
The bottom cup will also
increase by 6mm at CF.
+6mm
+3mm
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Grading Principles
Total increase is 6mm in height and 12mm in width
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Shift Grading
Y
X
Again we will also be using the process of shift
grading to complete the cup grade.
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Cup grade 34B - 34C
+6mm
+6mm
+4mm
We have discussed the reduction in wing length, 34B - 34C but 4mm must be
added to the side seam length to balance the 4mm we added to the 34C cup
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Cup grade 34B - 34C
6 mm
4 mm
The cradle pattern has increments on the X axis of 4mm and on the Y axis
6mm
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The common fault in the cradle length is a failure to
scoop out the curve. At the 2 positions below the length
should be common to all grades larger than base pattern
(34B)
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Cup grade 34B - 34C 34D
6 mm
3 mm
This bottom cup has 6mm on the X axis and 3mm on the Y axis
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Cup grade 34B - 34A
Reversing the
grading process
will give us one
cup size smaller this is suitable for
sizes A-D
-3mm
- 6 mm
- 6 mm
-3mm
The total decrease
is 6mm in the
bottom cup depth
and 12mm in the
cup volume
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Cup grade Split Bottom
Cup
3 mm
34B - 34C - 34D
3 mm
For the bottom cup we split the 12mm grade on the X axis
between the number of cup pieces and seams. For this style
this will mean 6mm on the X axis and 6mm on the Y axis.
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Cup grade Split
Bottom Cup
3 mm
34B - 34C - 34D
3 mm
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Cup grade 34B - 34C 34D
6 mm
3 mm
This top cup pattern has 6mm on the Y axis and 3mm on the X axis
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*3mm height
grade at CF
neckline edge
and underarm
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If you are finding the cup grading process
confusing remember that all the under
band patterns for each size / cup will
measure the same length from center back
hook tape to center back eye tape.
Example
34A - 34B - 34C - 34D
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Checking that the patterns ‘nest’ is a
crucial part of the grading process.