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TEXTILES COMMITTEE
1963 - 2013
VOL 1, ISSUE 4
MAY - JUNE 2013
The TC Times
TC Newsletter May 2013 Working for News.indd 1
Textiles Committee’s monthly communication
1
May - June 2013
23/07/13 4:17 PM
Contents
News & Events
4
Indian Technical Textile Association extends to Coimbatore,
Textiles Committee enters into an MoU with Government of Kerala
5
Visit of Indian Delegation to Brussels for the India-EU Joint Working Group and Bilateral Meetings.
6
Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing Factories,
7
Textiles Committee to formulate Textile Policy for Odisha,
Program on Handloom Mark Scheme
Online Report Status Through Lims
8
Lucknow Zardozi, Agra Durrie & Farrukhabad Prints of Uttar Pradesh get GI recognition
12
Review Meeting of Handloom Mark Scheme
13
Business meet on ‘Confedera business model at Karur
14
Secretary (Textiles), Government of India reviewed the activities of Textiles Committee
16
Workshop on Quality and Compliances for Wool Export
Cover Story
18 Development of Mandatory Standards For Textiles And Clothing in India: Status, Procedure And Way-Forward
Ginners’ Speak
26 Shri Anand Bhai Popat, Managing Director, Jalaram Cotton & Proteins Ltd., Rajkot, Gujarat,
Shri Ashok Agrwal, Managing Director, Mulchand Phulchand Krishi Udyog Pvt. Ltd, Jalna, Maharashtra
Editor: Mr. Ganesh Bangar, Assistant Director, EP & QA Division
Associate Editor: Mr. S. Krishna Kumar, Field Officer, Market Research Wing
For your valuable comments & any queries please write to us at newsltr.tc@gmail.com
The TC Times
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Chairman’s Message
The fourth issue of the Textiles Committee’s newsletter, The TC Times, is coming out with an
article of an interesting subject to the stakeholders of the textile industry, ‘the Status, Procedure
and Way-forward of Development of Mandatory Standards’ for the Indian Textiles and Clothing
sector. Textiles Committee has always been in the forefront of introducing new technology
into the system for the benefit of the industry in the country. The ‘Laboratory Information
Management System (LIMS)’ introduced by Committee is one such initiative of this kind. The
details of the LIMs are also featured in this issue.
I hope this issue of the Newsletter will be informative and interesting to the readers.
(S. P. Oswal)
Chairman, Textiles Committee
From The Secretary’s Desk
Textiles Committee as a facilitator to the textile trade & industry, through its activities such as
testing, consultancy services, cluster development activities, market research studies, quality
appraisal of textile products, handloom mark scheme and assessment & rating of G&P units.
As part of keeping the stakeholders of the industry informed about these activities, Textiles
Committee is publishing a newsletter, The TC Times. The current issue covers the activities
undertaken by Textiles Committee for the last two months. This issue features a lead article
on a different subject which describes the development of mandatory standards for the Textiles & Clothing sector in India.
I am sure that this issue will be interesting to the readers.
(Dr P. Nayak)
Secretary, Textiles Committee
Shri A.B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner exchanging pleasantries with Mr. Petros Sourmelis, who is leading
the seventh EU-India Joint Working Group at Brussels.
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News & Events
u
Indian Technical Textile Association extends to
Coimbatore
20th April, 2013
A B Joshi, Textiles Commissioner. Mr S Senthilkumar,
Vice-chairman of ITTA welcomed the dignitaries and
gatherings. ITTA Chairman Mr Mohan Kavire and SIMA
Chairman S Dinakaran delivered Special Addresses.
Textile Commissioner Shri A B Joshi, Guest of Honour
at the inaugural function said about 30 percent of the
requirement for Technical Textiles in India is now met
through Imports adding; around 3000 intentions for
Investment in the Sector have been registered so far.
With a market size of 60,000 crores, the sector has
The inaugural function concluded with vote of thanks by
SIMA Chairman Mr S Dinakaran.
recorded 11 to 12 percent growth in the last five years
The Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA) with 200
and with domestic demand growing at a robust pace, it
members based at Mumbai had opened its regional office
should touch 18 to 20 percent in 12th Plan period, said
in the premises of The Southern India Mills’ Association in
Shri Sujith Gulati, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles. The
Coimbatore on April 20, 2013. The inaugural function was
market for Technical Textiles is expected to cross Rs.1.5
presided by CITI Chairman Mr S V Arumugam and the Chief
lakh crore by 2016-17, he added.
Guest of the function was Mr Sujit Gulati, Joint Secretary,
The inaugural function concluded with vote of thanks by
Ministry of Textiles. Guest of Honour was bestowed on Mr
SIMA Chairman Mr S Dinakaran.
Textiles Committee enters into an MoU with Government of Kerala
Textiles Committee as part of its commitment to facilitate the Intellectual Property Rights Protection
of traditional products of the country is on the verge of signing a MoU with the Directorate of
Handlooms & Textiles, Government of Kerala. As per the agreement, Textiles Committee will extend
technical support to establish ‘Kerala Handlooms’ as a niche brand for the hand-woven products
of Kerala by Trade Mark registration and hence place it in the global map. Textiles Committee
has already placed four traditional handloom products of Kerala, namely, Balaramapuram Sarees
and Fine Cotton Fabrics; Kasaragod Sarees; Kuthampully Sarees; and Chendamangalam Dhoties
and Set Mundu on the GI map. Under the current MoU, Textiles Committee with its expertise
in Geographical Indications (GIs) and Trade Marks will register an exclusive Logo for Kerala
Handlooms.
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Visit of Indian Delegation to Brussels for the India-EU Joint Working Group and
Bilateral Meetings.
May 28th -29th, 2013
An Indian delegation from the Ministry of Textiles visited Brussels during May 28-29, 2013 for
the Joint Working Group meeting and bilateral meetings on May 28 & 29, 2013. The delegation
comprised of Shri V. Srinivas, Joint Secretary (Exports), MoT, Govt. Of India; Shri A.B. Joshi, Textile
Commissioner; Dr. P. Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee;
Shri Vijay Mathur, Secretary General, AEPC and Shri
Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director, TEXPROCIL. The
EU delegation was headed by Mr. Petros Sourmelis, Head of
Unit, Market Access, Industry and Raw Materials.
Some of the areas deliberated during the meetings are (i)
Cotton and cotton yarn export policy; (ii) two subjects on
the conformity assessment issues such as India’s Marking
and Labeling Regulation Order of 2003 and EU’s REACH
legislation; (iii) trade facilitation; and (iv) GSP benefits.
The delegation had a meeting
with the representatives of
European Apparel and Textile
Confederation (EURATEX) on
28th May 2013 on the sidelines
of the annual convention of
EURATEX.
The delegation had a meeting with the representatives of
European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX) on
28th May 2013 on the sidelines of the annual convention of EURATEX. The EURATEX representatives
were joined by Eurocotton and Turkish Textiles and Clothing Exporters Association. The discussion
centered on compliance standards in Indian apparel industries, cotton yarn exports policy for 201314. EURATEX welcomed the progress made in the “Disha” program and appreciated that the program
would be scaled up to cover 3000 factories in the 12th Plan period.
The Indian delegation held bilateral meetings with the senior officials of the EU along with their
respective Policy Officers on May 29, 2013. The issues covered in the discussions were (i) India’s
cotton and cotton yarn export policies, India achieving global competitiveness in textiles exports
and phasing out of export subsidies, both issues which had figured in WTO discussions; (ii) India’s
continued benefits under GSP and the guidelines that are to be put in place for GSP benefits from
2014-17 period; (iii) the modalities of technical assistance for enabling Indian apparel exporters to
improve compliance standards under REACH legislation; and (iv) the pace of growth of Indian textiles
industry and possible areas of collaboration in testing and laboratory standards for compliance.
The Indian delegation called on H.E. Ambassador Dinkar Khullar at the Embassy of India to the EU.
The meeting was also attended by DCM EOI Brussels Smt. Renu Sharma and Counsellor Commerce
EOI Brussels Ms. Nausheen J Ansari. The delegation briefed Ambassador of India on the progress
made in the Joint Working Group and the bilateral meetings.
Following the discussions, the roadmap for future engagement was identified as (a) review of India’s
textiles laboratories be taken up for testing azo-dyes and a comparative statement with criteria
prescribed under REACH may be drawn up; (b) paper on Technical Assistance for REACH will be
prepared by the Ministry of Textiles for sharing with European Union; (c) Given the potential for
expansion of Apparel Exports to EU in the backdrop of revival of demand in the EU markets, a
business to business forum between AEPC and representative associations in EU member countries
to be coordinated through the Embassy of India EU could be pursued; (d) The feasibility of cotton
fabric imports may be carefully assessed if relaxations are provided under the Marking and Labeling
Regulation Order of 2003.
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Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing Factories
Ministry of Textiles has entrusted the work of assessment and rating of
modernized ginning & pressing factories to the Textiles Committee. The
Ginning and Pressing factories are assessed and Star Rated as per the
scheme on “Assessment and Rating of Ginning and Pressing Factories”.
The Star Rating awarded between single star to five star to a ginning &
pressing factory depends on type of machinery available, civil infrastructure
and quality of management practices followed.
The Technical Rating Award Committee (TRAC), which awards a specific
star rating to the ginning & pressing factory, in its 9th meeting held on 6th
June 2013, awarded Star Rating to 99 fresh assessed and 17 re-assessed
ginning & pressing factories.
The ginning & pressing factories are voluntarily coming forward for re-assessment to upgrade their star rating status, shows
their interest towards clean cotton production.
State
No. of
Applications
Received
5 Star
4 Star
3 Star
2 Star
1 Star
Single
Star
(For
Limited
Period)
Provisionally
Rated Units
Total No. of
Units Rated
Andhra Pradesh
156
5
20
22
88
6
7
5
153
Gujarat
340
7
26
88
87
11
79
25
323
4
2
26
Haryana
3
2
1
Karnataka
29
2
3
4
11
Maharashtra
322
5
24
64
100
31
51
32
307
Madhya Pradesh
50
2
6
18
4
6
7
43
Orissa
13
1
5
5
Punjab
11
Total
924
u
19
76
191
3
11
1
1
1
8
11
311
53
148
79
877
Program on Handloom Mark Scheme was conducted at University Institute of
Fashion Technology and Vocational Development, Punjab University, Chandigarh
on 4th April, 2013 by Weaver Service Center with active support of Regional
Office, Textiles Committee, Panipat.
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Textiles Committee to formulate Textile Policy for Odisha
Textiles Committee has prepared a proposal on the “Roadmap for Development of Textiles Industry in Odisha” as
part of the efforts of the Government of Odisha to formulate a Textile Policy for the state. The proposal has been
submitted to the Government of Odisha and subsequently presented by Dr. P.Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee
to a group of senior officers of the state government, in the presence Smt Aparajita Sarangi, IAS, Principal Secretary,
Handlooms &Textiles, Government of Odisha on 13th June 2013, at the Conference Hall of the Directorate of
Textiles & Handlooms, Bhubaneswar. The H&T Commissioner accepted the proposal of the Textiles Committee to
formulate a Textile Policy for Odisha. As part of this project, a group of senior officers of the state government will
associate with Textiles Committee in the process of policy drafting. The proposed policy document will be submitted
to Government of Odisha by first week of November 2013.
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Online Report Status Through Lims
8th May, 2013
(from the date of Receipt of Samples to the Dispatch of Test Reports)
Textiles Committee (TC), a statutory body,
under the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India,
was set up to promote quality in Textile Trade
& Industry. TC provide services like Textiles
Testing & Technical Services, Quality
Appraisal of textiles & Export Promotion,
Consultancy on ISO 17025 (QMS), 9000,
ISO 14000, SA 8000, and Training to
industrial & Educational institutes, through
its vast network of 30 regional offices and
16 Laboratories scattered all over major
textile clusters of India. The TC has, since
then, been serving the textile industry and Hon’ble Chairman of Textiles Committee Shri S P Oswal inaugurating the LIMS Display facility
trade in the country with the objective of promoting quality
Laboratories of TC, in order to become more transparent in
with special emphasis to export sector.
its routine activities are implementing Laboratory Information
TC always strives to be customer friendly and transparent in Management System (LIMS). The Mumbai laboratory of
most of its activities. All 16 laboratories of TC are committed Textiles Committee has already implemented LIMS and is
to the timely disposal of testing activities and also maintain now working on it. In this system samples received from any
the confidentiality of test results. Wherever required, the sources are registered on LIMS. Then the sample is taken for
laboratories invite the customers to witness tests and have testing and for further action. Status of samples at any stage
indisputably demonstrated the repeatability of test results. 9 can be monitored by designated officials. Along with this,
of TC Laboratories are notified by DGFT for testing of import laboratory has also initiated a digital display of information
consignment received from different customs. The payment related to receipt of sample, status of sample such as testing,
need to be made to TC by either importer or their agents dispatch, payment, etc. This information is helpful to the
towards testing fee. After receipt of payment the test results customer to know the status of the sample. This display
are forwarded to respective custom authorities. Laboratories system was inaugurated by Hon’ble Chairman of Textiles
of TC, in order to become more efficient in its routine Committee, Shri S.P. Oswal on 8th May ’13 at Textiles
activities, have initiated a pass book system wherein any Committee’s Sample Counter.
customer can deposit certain amount as advance payment
depending upon their volume of transactions. Test charges
of a pass book holder will be deducted as soon as tests are
over and the test report will be automatically forwarded to
respective customs. This will reduce the effort of customers
to wait till the test is over to ascertain and make the payment
for further action.
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While inaugurating the new facility, the Hon’ble Chairman
appreciated the efforts taken by the Textiles Committee. He
urged Textiles Committee to be more customer friendly and
linking of LIMS information on to Textiles Committee website.
The Secretary, Textiles Committee Dr.P. Nayak and other
members of the Committee also graced the occasion.
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Lucknow Zardozi, Agra Durrie & Farrukhabad Prints of
Uttar Pradesh get GI recognition
The well known products of Uttar Pradesh namely, Lucknow Zardozi, Agra Durries &
Farrukhabad Prints have now been awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) recognition
by the Geographical Indication Registry of the Government of India. The GI registration is
provided to those products which are manufactured in the territory of a region where a given
quality, reputation or other characteristics of such products is attributable to its geographical
origin. The registration of a product under the Geographical Indications act (GI Act) helps a
community of producers to differentiate their products from other competing products in the
market and build goodwill around their products, which often fetches a premium price. For the
consumers, the Geographical Indications (GIs) are acting as a signaling device, which help
them to identify the original and genuine products and protect them against counterfeit ones.
LUCKNOW ZARDOSI
Coupattia, Tambaku Mandi, Bibignaj, Zazirbagh, Ambarganj,
Yasingaj, Thakurganj, Musahebganj, Muftiganj, Hussainbad
Khadra, Dargah, Kazmain, Niwazganj, Baba Hazarabagh,
Gullu Ka Takia, Kakori, Malihabad, Nigohan, Mal, Bakshi
ka Talab, Rahimabad, Itaunga etc. The other places which
are more or less associated with the Zardozi activities are
Textiles Committee has extended technical support to the
Bababanki (Haidergarh) Hardoi (Sandila), Unnano (Mohan),
state government for the registration of these products under
Sitapur (Sidhuli, Biswan, Misriksh and Laherpur), Sultanpur
GI which involves preparation of the application, the statement
(Musafirkhana), Kanpur, Khiri Lakhimpur (Lakhimpur urban)
of case and its submission to the GI registry, defending the
etc.
case in the Consultative Committee meeting and preparing
A range of products are produced by the weavers in these
compliance to the Examination Report.
production centres. The products are scabbards for swords
The Lucknow Zardozi produced in the historical city of
and daggers, canopies, coats, caps, ghagras, covers for
Lucknow of Uttar Pradesh and the adjacent districts is
boxes, combs and mirrors, umbrellas, fans, shoes, bags,
famous all over the country. The craft is not only providing
belts, saddle cloths, seat covers, carpets, bolsters, etc. and
employment to about 2.50 lakh artisans but also people
a variety of other objects such as embroidered saris, suits,
from non- craft base are also earning their livelihood by
dupattas and lehangas, Jackets, shirts, long skirts, and
associating in the process of marketing of the product.
longer scarves.
The number of non-artisan persons getting their bread and
butter from this craft is about one million. They are either
Zardozi as a technique is understood to be a distinctive style
contractors, manufactures, retailers, raw material providers
of stitching as it differs from other traditions of embroidery
or those employed by the manufacturers. Both urban and
like kantha, kasuti, phulkari, etc. where the movement of the
rural folk of the region are largely depends on the activities
threaded needle is guided by a variety of stitches. In other
associated with the Zardozi craft. The places associated with
embroideries silk, cotton or woolen threads are used, which
the production of Zardozi in Lucknow are Kashmiri Mohalla,
are pliable enough to move freely. However, in zardozi, the
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Zardozi as a technique is understood to be
a distinctive style of stitching as it differs
from other traditions of embroidery like
kantha, kasuti, phulkari, etc. where
the movement of the threaded needle is
guided by a variety of stitches.
thread only acts as a binding medium, whereas the body of
single colour. The main products of Agra Durrie are Chindi
the design is completed by laying varieties of metallic threads
Durrie, Cotton/Hemp/Jute Durrie and Woolen Durrie. Agra is
in several shapes and forms along with beads, stones, beetle
known for natural vegetable dyes. In the past, many colours
wings, etc. The whole process is more indicative of appliqué
were used in a durrie which were produced with natural
rather than embroidery. Thus it may be called metal appliqué.
dyes. Maddar, which grows almost everywhere, was the most
This is further corroborated by the fact that zardozi always
important colourant of vegetable origin. Its root provided the
get payments from amount of wire stitched on the cloth by
whole range of pinks and reds. Apart from Maddar other wild
weight. They never use the word kadai, the Hindi word for
vegetables, was the most important element of dying process.
embroidery, instead refer to it as salme sitar eke kam ka
Other natural elements used to make Dyes are turmeric root
takna which means laying of the salma, sitara on the body
(light yellow), pomegranate skins (darker yellow), rhubarb
of the fabric.
(dark red and copper red), grass or kusa (green) and kikar
tree leaves (brown). These natural dyes were usually prepared
by the weavers in their home. However, presently most of the
weavers prefer to use mainly two or three colours and the
AGRA DURRIE
dyes used are synthetic direct dyes.
The weaving of Agra Durrie is mainly centred on the Agra
district of UP. With the growing demand for the product, the
production has been extended to the neighbouring areas,
namely, Etmadpur, Khandauli, Shamshabad, Fatehabad,
M
A
S
Jagner, Kheragarh, Sainya, Achanera, Akola, Bichpuri,
Fatehpur Sikri, Barauli Ahir, Bah, Pinahat and Jaitpur Kalan.
A durrie is a flat woven pileless rug having a rich variety of
designs and colours. It is essentially a thick cotton woven
E
L
P
fabric meant for spreading on the floor. It is a weft-faced
fabric on both its sides as warp is completely covered by the
weft. In its simplest form it is made in plain weave and in
simple stripes in different colours running from side to side
or broken into rectilinear sections or with simple patterns in
Specimen of GI Certificate
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Bhagalpur Silk gets Geographical Indication Tag
The
well
known
Hindustan - April 30, 2013
Hindustan - April 30, 2013
Bhagalpur Silk of Bihar
has
been
registered
under the Geographical
Indications
Act
1999
(GI)
by
the
Government of India.
The technical support
for
registering
the
product under the GI
Dainik Jagran - April 30, 2013
Act has been extended
by Textiles Committee.
Bhagalpur Silk is the
fifth
product
from
Bihar to be registered
under the GI Act after
Madhubani Paintings; Applique- Khatwa Patch Work; Sujini Embroidery
Work; and Sikki Grass Work. A logo for this product has also been registered
under the act.
The district of Bhagalpur of Bihar has been famous for its cottage industries
since long. Tussar Silk, dyeing, glassware etc. were some of the main
industries of the district. Bhagalpur, which is more famous for Silk, has been
a well known product of the place from time immemorial. Bhagalpur known
as Champa in the days of yore, produced abundantly Tussar and Mulberry
categories of silk. The industry enjoyed a royal patronage and silk, the best
in the world, was exported to the countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea
under the protection of royal troops. Then, it used to be exchanged for gold. In
the international market, Bhagalpur is specially recognized for the production
of silk furnishing, both heavy and light textures. Tussar spun out of different
stages/ wastes like Jhuri, Danti, Katiya, Balkal etc. are regional names used
for manufacturing silk fabrics. The Mulberry silk yarns of varied range are
also used here. The use of heavy coarse Jhari Tussar, Hand Spun Jattam
to finest filament yarn are used to produce the varieties like dress materials,
upholstery, scarf, stoles etc.
The silk weavers in the region are apt in blending the fine and coarser yarns
for producing quality silk fabrics. They are skilled to use cotton (fine to coarse),
Jute, Linen (flax), Viscose, wool, acrylic and polyester yarns in blending/ mixing
The industry
enjoyed a royal
patronage and
silk, the best
in the world,
was exported to
the countries
bordering the
Mediterranean
Sea under the
protection of royal
troops.
with silk yarns in producing silk blends and other varieties.
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produced by it, the method is still used in many countries
FARRUKHABAD PRINTS
in the world. The blocks used in this method are made of
several layers of common timber which are cemented
together and the portions to be printed are carved or raised
in relief on a thick block of wood. Metallic blocks such as ‘T’
japs are used for a special work in a Batik printing. Designs
with fine lines which are too fine to be cut on a wooden block
are made by inserting short pieces of copper stripes and pins.
Farrukhabad in Uttar Pradesh is famous for the artistic and
For obtaining an overall design of coloured dots, a block like
intricate hand-block printing. In many cases, the printing
instrument containing 10 to 40 needles is used. The fabric
centres as well as its special methods and practices are
is stretched over the printing table and fastened with small
extinguished. Those that survived, on the other hand, appear
pins (in the case of saris the pallu is printed first then the
to have readily inducted modern innovations such as printing
border). The printing starts form left to right. The colour is
tables, synthetic dyestuffs and new finishing processes into
evened out in the out in the tray with a wedge of wood and the
their technique. Farrukhabad is a veritable treasure house of
block dipped into the outline colour (usually black or a dark
traditional designs ranging from the classical butis (dots) to
colour). Colour in the form of a thickened paste is applied to
the famous ‘Tree of Life’ to modern print. The butis are restful
the raised parts of the block and the impression of the design
even though sparkling when tinted in solid colours. Mango,
is obtained by stamping the block by hand with a wooden
‘paisely’ as it is known in the West, is made in a vast variety of
mallet (or hammer) on the cloth to be printed. Since the block
shapes, and used in bold, medium and in even fine designs.
has to be lifted and stamped on to the cloth repeatedly, its
size as well as weight should not be unduly excessive so that
The artisans of Farrukhabad use a distinct production
it can be manipulated easily. Each fresh portion of the cloth
process for producing block printing. The process starts with
has to be printed by a separate application of the block and
the procurement of raw material. Fabrics are most important
the successive impressions have to be adjusted accurately to
raw materials of the textile printing. The traditional fabrics of
the block and in very large patterns, each individual colour
printing were fine cotton and silk. The fabric used for printing
may require more than one block. Thus in a design called
is collected from across the country. The artisans are using
‘Dutch Bouquet’ which has 23 colours in it, 126 blocks are
cotton fabrics of different qualities, silk fabrics, viscose and
used for printing the design.
different dyes for performing their artistic skills. Earlier the
artisans used natural dyes derived from plants, animals and
These traditional textile products of the country are national
minerals in the process of printing. Normally, all the regions
heritage and socio-culturally related to the stakeholders of the
use primary colours like yellow, blue, red and the combination
products and also to the consumers. It is also contributing
colours of those like brown, green and orange.
immensely to the economic development of the artisans
associated in the process of production and marketing of
The artisans of Farrukhabad use two different procedures
the products. The legal protection through GI registration
for printing i.e. (a) Printing through Block and (b) Printing
will provide much needed protection against infringement
through Screen. The block printing is the oldest and the
and provide ownership rights as well. At the same time,
simplest method of printing. Because of its artistic and
the protection will also make the consumers secure from
decorative value and the purity and richness of colour
infringed products.
The block printing is the oldest and the
simplest method of printing. Because of
its artistic and decorative value and the
purity and richness of colour produced
by it, the method is still used in many
countries in the world.
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Review Meeting of Handloom Mark Scheme
16th April, 2013
A review meeting of the Handloom Mark scheme was
organized across the country under Market Incentive
convened by the Development Commissioner (Handlooms)
Scheme as one of the major platform for creating publicity
on 16th April 2013 at New Delhi. The meeting reviewed the
of Handloom Mark Scheme. The State Handloom
physical and financial performance of the Scheme during the
Departments, Apex Societies, Weavers Service Centers,
11th Five Year Plan and also during the financial year 2012-
NHDC etc who are organising Handloom Expos under
13. In the meeting, the Director (EP & QA) informed with
Market Incentive Scheme will advise the participants to
the help of statistics that the Scheme is performing well and
display only handloom products duly fixing the handloom
progressing as per the planned targets in terms of registration
mark labels and monitoring the use of labels on the
and the label sales. The strategies to be adopted for the
handloom products.
promotion of the Scheme during the 12th Plan period was
n
The Handloom Mark Labels will be distributed at free of
also discussed and finalized. Some of the main activities to
cost to the organizers to enable the participants to affix
be taken up during the 12th plan period are:
the labels on the handloom products and popularize the
n
Engaging professional advertising agencies for creating
Handloom Mark Scheme among the public. The Cluster
publicity in an effective manner, as major part of the
Development Executives of the handloom clusters will be
budgetary provision is allotted for publicity measures. The
asked to actively promote the Handloom Mark Scheme in
publicity campaign organized through these professional
all their Handloom promotional activities and events.
agencies will comprise media plan for print and electronic
n
n
Linking the Handloom Mark Scheme with other Schemes of
media at strategic locations such as railway stations, bus
the office of the Development Commissioner (Handlooms)
stations, trains, buses, airports and for promotional events
to encourage display of promotional material / signboards
like fashion shows, cultural events and other means of
at retail outlets, licensing system for bulk users, sticker /
publicity.
fusing type labels etc.
SASMIRA’S INSTITUTE of
OF utilizing
MAN-­‐MADE Exploring
the possibility
theTEXTILES Handloom Expos
‘SASMIRA’, Sasmira Marg, Worli, Mumbai 400 030 Tel: 022-­‐24935351, 24935352, 24918201. Fax: 022-­‐24930225 e-­‐mail: principal@sasmira.org FEEDBACK
Sasmira/SIMMT/DMTC /2013 13th May, 2013. To, Dr. P. Nayak, Member Secretary, Textiles Committee, Government of India, Ministry of Textiles, P. Balu Road, Prabhadevi, Mumbai – 400 025. Sub: Report on the Union Budget 2013. Dear Sir, I acknowledge the receipt of Textiles Committee Monthly Communication “The TC Times” February – March 2013 issue. The article on Report of Union Budget 2013 has aptly analysed the attempts made by the Ministry to revitalise the textile sector and has also suggested appropriate interventions to be made in order to meet the expectations. This report is informative which will be shared with the students thereby updating their understanding about our Textile Industry. I am thankful to you for forwarding a copy to me. Looking forward to your support and co-­‐operation in all future endeavours. Thanking you, Yours faithfully, ANAND P. MODGEKAR Head, Textile Chemistry Dept. SIMMT, SASMIRA. Mobile-­‐ 9869 210 958. The TC Times
TC Newsletter May 2013 Working for News.indd 12
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u
Business meet on ‘Confedera business model
at Karur
27th March, 2013
Shri D. Dhandapani, Deputy Director during his special address.
Sampath Kasirajan during his presentation
A business meet on ‘Confedera business model - a tool for
support system in the form of a ‘Confedera’ or a consortium
improving competitiveness factors in Home textile MSME
would help in leveraging the power of federated cooperation
units’ was organized by Karur Textile manufacturers and
of MSME units in all areas of business functions provided,
exporters association (KTMEA) at
the KTMEA Hall on 27th March
2013. The objective of the meet
was to create awareness on
the ‘Confedera or consortium
business model’ for the textile
MSME units, that consolidates
their
capacities,
functions,
processes and services into a
single requirement and enables
they are willing to work together.
The unstable prices of raw
material, power shortage,
non-availability of skilled
man-power are some of
the main causes that make
the manufacturing units
uncompetitive.
Through this confedera model,
the MSME units will be brought
under one advanced planning
and
scheduling
system
of
order inflow for better capacity
utilisation. It will consolidate the
procurement of yarn, fabric, trims
& packaging material for gaining
them to function like a single entity
bulk advantage on price. Increase
without losing their individual
in productivity is achieved through
sustained training, improvement in workplace conditions and
identity for gaining cost, differential and niche advantages.
application of Information Technology. Normal and highIt is felt that the present day business environment is not
speed lanes are set in the production process for improved
conducive for the Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises/
price realisation. The confedera will also involve designers
MSME units to do business in isolation without a proper
from abroad to develop collections according to the season to
support system. The unstable prices of raw material, power
mobilise orders. This support system will also foster various
shortage, non-availability of skilled man-power are some
government schemes for their benefits in market development,
of the main causes that make the manufacturing units
technology up-gradation, prototype development centre etc.
uncompetitive. Being small, they are not able to handle big
orders and hence big customers avoid them. The increasing
Textiles Committee extended technical support to the business
new compliance requirements from customers abroad also
meet which was inaugurated by Shri. N. Rajasekaram,
create additional expenditure to these units. The lack of R &
Chairman of CII (Karur Chapter). Shri. D. Dhandapani,
D results in the MSME units adopting the ‘Cut, Make & Trim’
Deputy Director, Textiles Committee and Shri. G. Venugopal,
methodology, which doesn’t fetch good margins. In order
Cluster Development Executive, Textiles Committee were the
that the MSMEs take advantage of the various competitive
two resource persons in the programme.
factors like cost, size, compliance and value addition – a
The TC Times
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u
Secretary (Textiles), Government of India reviewed the
activities of Textiles Committee
1st May, 2013
Secretary (Textiles), Government of India reviewed the
ongoing activities of the Textiles Committee on 1st May 2013
at New Delhi. Senior Officers of the Textile Ministry and
Textiles Committee were present during the review meeting.
The major focus area of the review was the Government
Schemes implemented by Textiles Committee specially the
Handloom Mark Scheme.
in all overseas exhibitions and Buyer Seller Meets (BSM)
in order to provide visibility to the foreign buyers;
(g)Pooling the funds available with other programmes for
publicity for synergy and effective utilization.
Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing
factories
Textiles Committee has so far assessed 707 Ginning factories
and is planned to assess more than 200 units in the current
year under the scheme for star rating of Ginning and Pressing
factories. The Global Cotton Conference has conferred
‘Excellence Awards’ to Textiles Committee for promoting
excellence in cotton through Star Rating Scheme. In order
to bring vibrancy into the scheme, it was also decided to
(a) organize more awareness programmes to increase the
visibility so that high rated factories receive premium price
for their cotton; and (b) bring the scheme to the notice of
foreign buyers.
Handloom Mark Scheme
As the main objective of the scheme is to create a brand
value and secure a niche market thereby ensuring a decent
earning to the weavers with an year-long and continuous
work flow, it was decided the continuance of the scheme in
the twelve plan also with the following:
(a)Exploring the possibility of carrying out bar-coding on the
handloom mark labels;
(b)Hiring of a professional agency for development of a
media plan for better execution of the publicity measures
and visibility;
Integrated Skill Development Scheme
(ISDS)
(c)All Weaver Service Centres (WSC) to erect Hoardings of
handloom mark;
Textiles Committee has been implementing the scheme by
imparting training on the “Textiles Committee Certified Quality
Professionals”. 4500 industry personnel were proposed to
be trained over the period of five years. The scheme is now in
its third year of operation. So far 1094 personnel have been
trained. Regarding ISDS Secretary (T) desired to focus more
on industry personnel and employability. Joint Secretary has
advised to restructure the scheme considering the objectives
to train more industry personnel.
(d)Ensure mandatory use of the labels by the handloom
societies/individual handloom weavers participating in the
government sponsored exhibitions;
(e)The Indian Institute of Handloom Technology (IIHT) to
impart training on the handloom mark scheme. Textiles
Committee officers, wherever available, to participate in
the handloom mark training programme at IIHT;
(f)Handloom Export Promotion Council to arrange and
provide an exclusive stall to Textiles Committee free of
cost for publicity of the handloom mark scheme invariably
Textiles Committee has so far
assessed 707 Ginning factories
and is planned to assess more
than 200 units in the current year
under the scheme for star rating
of Ginning and Pressing factories.
The TC Times
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textiles (specialty fibers). In this regard, 272 subheadings in
respect of technical textiles have been developed and sub
group has been submitted in the Ministry of Textiles.
Cluster Development Programme
Regarding the Cluster Development Programmes, it was
decided that (a) an implementation model in the line of
Shantipur Cluster of West Bengal to be developed by Textiles
Committee so that similar action could be initiated by other
clusters in the country; (b) the Dye House, Effluent Treatment
Plant (ETP) and Common Facility Centre (CFC) of the Bijnore
cluster of Rajasthan to be inaugurated for operation at the
earliest.
Textiles Testing Services
Laboratory Information Management
Systems (LIMS) has been established
by Textiles Committee at Mumbai
and is planned to extend to all the
17 laboratories within a period of 4
months. The LIMS is aimed at providing
quick service to the customers. The
Registration Evaluation and Assessment
of Chemicals (REACH), a new
compliance standard brought in by
EU has affected the exports for nonavailability of adequate test facilities in
India. Textiles Committee has developed
test methods for 5 phthalates and 5
banned amines under REACH besides
formaldehyde. Textiles Committee
is also planned to (a) increase the
customer base; and (b) to publicize the
laboratory services in all domestic and
international exhibitions.
Secretary (Textiles) desired that parallel work should be
carried out along with DGFT, Ministry of Commerce on the
finalisation of HS lines developed by the Textiles Committee
for the specialty fibers.
The report ‘National
Household Survey:
Market for Textiles
and Clothing’ will
be put on the webportal for online
availability to the
users in the near
future.
Textiles Committee has developed a
Compendium of Non-Tariff Barriers
(NTBs) by countries and by products.
Action will be taken to revise this
compendium on the basis of the inputs
received from the Capacity Building Programmes which
are planned to be organized across the export centres in
the country. The first NTB capacity building programme
was conducted in Delhi and another 9 programmes will be
organized this year with the support of Export Promotion
Councils.
Export Promotion and Quality Assurance (EP & QA) division of
Textiles Committee has been issuing 75% of the Generalised
System of Preferences (GSP) and Certificate of Origin (Non
Preferential) for the textiles sector. EP & QA Division of
Textiles Committee has been accredited as per ISO 17020
standard by NABCB (National Accreditation Board for
Certification Bodies & Inspection Bodies) and providing its
third party inspection services to the industry including some
foreign countries. Classification of textiles and textile material
in Harmonization Coding System (HS Classification) is the
forte of the Textiles Committee and is the only organization
to providing such services in India. Textiles Committee has
been assigned development of HS lines for the technical
TC Newsletter May 2013 Working for News.indd 15
Textiles Committee has been providing
Total Quality Management services in
ISO 9000, ISO 14000, SA8000 and
other compliance related consultancy.
More than 650 units have been certified
through the consultancy of the Textiles
Committee; the single largest in India.
Textiles Committee also extended
training to more than 17500 personnel
of the industry in understanding the
quality and infusing quality culture to
the Industry. The Ministry, Office of the
Textile Commissioner and Texprocil are
some of the clients for implementation
of ISO 9000 system management
standards.
Market Research Services
Export Promotion and
Quality Assurance Services
The TC Times
Total Quality Management
Services
The report ‘National Household Survey: Market for Textiles
and Clothing’ will be put on the web-portal for online
availability to the users in the near future. In order to restrict
the import of counterfeit products into the country, Textiles
Committee will submit the details of the products registered
under the Geographical Indications (GI) Act to the office of
the Director General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) and Customs.
15
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u
Workshop on Quality and Compliances for
Wool Export
15th May, 2013
Textiles Committee in association
Shri K. K. Goyal, Executive Director,
with
CWDB coordinated the programme.
Central
Board
Wool
(CWDB),
Association
Development
Wool
(WRA)
Research
and
The Chief Guest, Ms. Monika S. Garg
Indian
in her interaction with the stakeholders,
Woollen Mills Federation (IWMF) have
opined
organized a workshop on “Quality and
business
Compliances of Wool” at Hotel Fortune
remain competitive.
on the quality of wool and woolen
export. The workshop was attended
by stakeholders of the industry and
representatives
of
research
and
development organisations of the wool
industry.
Ms Monika S. Garg, Jt. Secretary
in the Ministry of Textiles, Govt of
India chaired the workshop as the
Chief Guest. Ms Mridula Jain, Vice
Chairperson of the Shawl Club and Shri
Virendra Sharma, President, Oswal
undergoing
international
significant
to remain updated on those issues to
was to discuss and deliberate issues
to understand compliance issues for
the
environment and methods, it is necessary
2013. The objective of the workshop
also to create capacity of the industry
is
since
transformation in terms of business
Park Klassik, Ludhiana on 15th May
products for export purposes and
that
The objective of the
workshop was to
discuss and deliberate
issues on the quality
of wool and woolen
products for export
purposes and also
to create capacity
of the industry
to understand
compliance issues for
export.
Woollen Mills, Ludhiana attended the
She informed the
stakeholders that in view of the depressing
tariff levels, the major trading partners of
India are instituting non-tariff barriers
to restrict their markets. These barriers
many often create major impediments to
our exports than the tariff restrictions. It
is, therefore, necessary to be compliant
with the non-tariff measures to remain
competitive in the global market. In this
regard, she informed the House that
Textiles Committee is planning to organise
Capacity Building Programmes on NonTariff Barriers in nine export centres of the
country including Ludhiana. The booklet
on “Demystifying Non-Tariff Barriers”
published by the Textiles Committee is a
workshop as the representatives of the industry. Besides,
useful source of information for the industry in this regard.
Shri M. K. Bardhan, Director, Wool Research Association,
The Compendium of Non-Tariff Barriers compiled by the
Shri Mahesh Sanil, Executive Director, Wool Industry Export
Textiles Committee would be revised on the basis of the
Promotion Council also attended the workshop and made
feedback received from the industry and be made a useful
their presentations on issues relating to development of
document for preparing ourselves to become compliant to
research in wool testing and on the compliance requirements.
the real non-tariff measures.
Shri Kartikay Dhanda, Director (Lab), Textiles Committee
After detailed deliberations, it was decided that there would be
presented the laboratory facilities available in India specially
regular interaction programme between Textiles Committee,
focusing on laboratory services provided to industry in
industry and other organizations to evolve strategies on
Ludhiana. Dr P. Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee and
The TC Times
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23/07/13 4:18 PM
issues such as (i) upgrading laboratory facilities matching
Assistance (MDA) and other such schemes already available
with the requirements of the modern day; (ii) strengthening
in Ministry of Commerce and Ministry of Textiles; and (vi)
the Textiles Committee Laboratories at Ludhiana and Jaipur
to enhance the trade facilitation issues, the industry and the
to offer best services for wool testing; (iii) drawing a special
Government would work together with synergy.
program by Textiles Committee along with WRA to train
The workshop was attended by more than 130 delegates
man power under the Integrated Skill Development Scheme
from the industry and from research fraternity. Ludhiana is
(ISDS) to bridge the gap of technical man power availability
the largest production centre of wool and acrylic yarn in the
to the industry; (iv) Organizing industry capacity building
country with more than 11000 units, provides employment to
programmes on Non-Tariff Barriers (NTB) so as to help
more than 2.5 lakhs with a total a turnover of Rs.15000 crores.
the industry to comply with the emerging barriers to remain
The industry representatives appreciated the initiatives taken
competitive in the international market; (v) Creating a brand
by Textiles Committee and sought similar capacity building
for Indian Woollen products and to those who have developed
programs in the future.
brands are to be supported from the Market Development
Textiles Committee convened its 111th Management
Committee Meeting on 8Th May 2013 to discuss &
deliberate issues related to organization & trade
The TC Times
TC Newsletter May 2013 Working for News.indd 17
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23/07/13 4:18 PM
COVER STORY
Development of Mandatory Standards
For Textiles And Clothing in India:
Status, Procedure And Way-Forward
Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT):
A Global Perspective
by Ms. Deepti Lahane
of international trade. They serve as an important function
in facilitating international trade, including by enabling small
TBTs have come to the fore in recent years due to increasing
and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) to obtain greater
globalization and the relative decline in traditional tariff
access to foreign markets. They also enable governments to
measures. Today, standards-related measures (standards,
pursue legitimate objectives such as protecting human health
technical regulations, and conformity assessment procedures)
and the environment and preventing deceptive practices.
play a critical role in shaping the flow of international
trade. While tariffs still constitute an important source of
Standards-related measures also play a vital role in enabling
distortions and economic costs, the relative role of tariffs in
greater competition by conveying information to producers
shaping international trade has declined due to large part to
and consumers about the characteristics or performance
successful rounds of multilateral tariff reductions in the WTO
of components and end products they purchase from a
and its predecessor, the General Agreement on Tariffs and
wide variety of suppliers. These measures also enable more
Trade (GATT 1947). With these declines in tariffs, the role
widespread access to technical innovations. Standards-related
of non-tariff barriers in international trade has become more
measures can offer particularly pronounced benefits to SME’s
prominent.
from this perspective. Uniform standards and product testing
18.23
Others
4.6
procedures established under a common set of technical
The WTO agreement on Technical Barriers to Trade clearly
requirements that producers can rely on in manufacturing
recognizes that international standards can contribute in
components and end products, can facilitate the diffusion of
improving efficiency of production and facilitating the conduct
technology and innovation, contribute to increasing buyer-
Ms. Deepti Lahane, MBA (Marketing and International Business)
Research Associate, Market Research Wing, Textiles Committee, Mumbai
(The views expressed by the author are purely personal and in no way reflect the official position of
Textiles Committee to which the author is presently affiliated)
The TC Times
TC Newsletter May 2013 Working for News.indd 18
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350
300
250
200
150
100
50
0
FIG A: Members that most frequently launch TBT STC’s
200
The following graph shows the trend of Non -tariff measures
adopted by WTO member countries:
177
150
150
MEASURES INITIATED FROM 1-4-2010 to 31-3-2013
1000
100
53
50
52
50
49
39
38
South
Korea
Australia
31
100
0
EU
USA
Japan
EU
China
Mexico
Argentina EU
10
Source: IFN Working Paper No.960, 2013: In the Shadow of the DSU; Addressing specific
trade concerns in the WTO SPS and TBT Committees, Henrik Horn, Petros C. Mavroidis
and Erik N. Wijkström, Research Institute of Industrial Economics, Sweden.
1
Q2
Q3
2010
Safeguard
seller confidence, and assist SMEs to participate in global
Q4
Q1
Q2
Q3
2011
Countervailing
Technical Barriers To Trade
supply chains. Conversely, outdated, overly burdensome,
Q4
Q1
Q2
Q3
2012
Q4
Q1
2013
Antidumping
Sanitary and Phytosanitary
Source: http://i-tip.wto.org/Forms/GraphView.aspx
discriminatory, or otherwise inappropriate standards related
measures can reduce competition, stifle innovation, and
create unnecessary obstacles to trade. Even when standardsrelated measures are used appropriately, firms – particularly
In comparison to the WTO member countries, India has not
SMEs can face significant challenges in accessing information
been able to develop technical regulations at the same pace
about, and complying with, diverse and evolving technical
as depicted below:
requirements in major export markets. The following graph
MEASURES INITIATED FROM 1-4-2010 to 31-3-2013
depicts the ten most active members raising specific trade
concerns (STC’s) in WTO TBT committee. As is clearly seen
100
European Union and The United States of America lead the
list (Refer Fig A).
10
FIG B: Members that most frequently face TBT STC’s
350
300
250
200
150
100
50
0
1
306
Q3
2010
Q4
Q1
Q2
Q3
2011
Q4
Q1
Q2
Q3
2012
Q4
Q1
2013
Source: http://i-tip.wto.org/Forms/GraphView.aspx
76
EU
Q2
USA
69
BRAZIL
45
Canada
87
China
38
59
India
South
Korea
27
26
Australia Indoneisa
25
The numbers of TBT notifications have consistently
Vietnam
increased during last five years, as also the modifications
Source: IFN Working Paper No.960, 2013: In the Shadow of the DSU; Addressing specific
trade concerns in the WTO SPS and TBT Committees, Henrik Horn, Petros C. Mavroidis
and Erik N. Wijkström, Research Institute of Industrial Economics, Sweden.
done to the introduced notifications. It is clearly seen that the
trend has changed from tariff barriers to non-tariff barriers
in international trade. It is necessary for India to develop
On the other hand shown in Fig B is the graph that depicts
certain stringent technical regulations in order to protect and
the top ten countries that most frequently face specific trade
promote the T &C sector.
concerns in WTO TBT committee. Although European Union
dominates here as well but majority of eastern nations also
come into picture:
The TC Times
TC Newsletter May 2013 Working for News.indd 19
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May - June 2013
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2500
2000
1500
1000
500
0
1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012
Notifications
Addenda/Corrigenda
Source: http://i-tip.wto.org/Forms/GraphView.aspx
Need for developing standards:
arising out of disposal of packaging material such as
recyclability.
a. To rationalize quality issues in textile trade
n
b. To tackle the consistent increase in import of T&C products
Marking and labeling requirements: labeling needs
to include ingredients, intended use and shelf life. For
c. To improve the competitiveness of domestic producers in
example: CE marking
international market
n
Administrative provisions: inspection, testing, certification
d. To address issues pertaining to environment, fair trade,
and approval from competent authorities.
fulfillment of social objectives etc.
Product Standards
Technical regulations/standards encompass the
n
following important aspects:
n
For products, standards that contain specifications are
the most common; they cover the requirements for a
Product characteristics: Dimensions, Design criteria,
material or product in a comprehensive manner. These
Performance criteria, Materials used
n
specifications provide a complete guidance for producing,
processing, selling, purchasing and using the product.
Process and production methods: when they affect the
They may also include requirements for dimensions,
safety and health requirements of the product
n
performance, packaging, labeling, methods of sampling
Packaging: to ensure that the product arrives intact at
and test methods.
its destination and may also include environmental issues
900000
2008
800000
2009
2010
IMPORT VALUE
700000
2011
600000
2012
500000
400000
300000
200000
100000
0
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
HS-CODE
58
59
60
61
62
63
Source: Calculations done on data reported by ITC, Geneva
The TC Times
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The specifications are further
classified into three categories:
a.Obligatory
requirements-
essential
characteristics
needed
to
ensure
the
usefulness of a product
b.Optional or recommendatory
requirements-which help to
International standards
forming organizations
issue new product
standards or revise older
ones to keep pace with
market requirements and
changing technologies.
standards and classifying the
standards:
The national standards forming
body in India is the BIS. There are
about 1135 voluntary standards
developed by BIS for the T&C
sector. Out of these are about
636 product related standards,
improve the serviceability of
328 methods of test, 33 codes
a product
of
practice,
57
terminology,
11 dimensions and 70 in others. A detailed description is
c.
Informative requirements-necessary to make the
available on the BIS website-http://www.bis.org.in/sf/pow/txd.
consumer aware of the contents of the product
n
Identifying existing Indian BIS
pdf
International standards forming organizations issue new
Sr.No. Description
product standards or revise older ones to keep pace
No. of
standard
with market requirements and changing technologies.
With new technologies emerging in the textile industry,
new standards need to be in place and should be made
mandatory. In India, the surge in import of few products
over last few years has been exceptionally high; to counter
this surge in imports and to rationalize the quality issues
in textile trade we need to introduce product standards.
1
Product related standards
636
2
Methods of test specific standards
328
3
Codes of Practice
33
4
Terminology
57
5
Dimensions
11
6
Other
70
Total
These standards would also contribute towards making
1135
our domestic producers internationally competitive. The
Linking these standards to 6 digit HS code:
following is a graphical representation of the import
It was a tedious task to link the HS code at 6 digit to the
figures of India from the world for T&C for last 5 years (in
available standards by BIS. Not only the end user had to be
USD 1000)
considered but also the fact that the existing standards by
BIS give a wide view of the situation but our aim is to arrive
at precise standards for crucial products.
Analysis and classification of
BIS developed standards
About 143 IS
standards have been linked to the HS product line.
Studying the world wide scenario in mandatory
Studying the specifications of the linked standards:
textile standards:
All the specifications of these 143 standards have been
Almost all the developed nations have some or the other
thoroughly studied to improve/alter the same. The IS
technical regulations in T&C products to restrict the amount
standards are available both for product specification
of imports and using Non-Tariff Barriers rather than tariffs
standards, physical methods of test and chemical methods of
in order to do so. Majorly the mandatory standards exists in
test. To prepare a comprehensive specification it is essential
to streamline the product specifications, physical methods of
the segments of baby clothes, technical textiles, products
test and chemical methods of test in to one precise standard.
with direct skin contact like apparels and home textiles like
At the same time keeping in mind that our own industry will
curtains, bedspreads, textile wall fabric etc.
The TC Times
TC Newsletter May 2013 Working for News.indd 21
have to be ready to abide by these standards.
21
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Product wise suggestion for mandatory standards:
S. No
HS Code
Description of products
Import value 2012 into Top Exporters to India
India in 1000 USD
1
500720
Other woven fabrics of silk (silk
content 85% or more)
69369
China, USA, Italy
2
500790
Other woven fabrics of silk or of silk
waste
3735
China, USA, Republic of
Korea
3
510129
Other
degreased
wool
(not
carbonized; not carded or combed)
77014
Australia,
China
4
540210
High tenacity yarn of polyamide
filaments
83963
China, Germany, USA
5
540233
Textured yarn of polyester filaments
49907
Republic of Korea, China,
Indonesia
6
590320
Textile fabrics impregnated, coated,
covered with polyurethane
65401
China, Republic of Korea,
Italy
7
590390
Textile fabrics impregnated, coated,
covered with other plastics
140381
China, Republic of Korea,
China
8
590310
Textile fabrics impregnated, coated,
covered with polyvinyl chloride
115220
China,
Turkey
9
550320
Polyester staple fibers, not processed
for spinning
42760
China, Republic of Korea,
Chinese Taipei
10
540410
Synthetic monofilament of 67 decitex
or more
17421
China, Germany, USA
11
540269
Multiple or cabled yarn of polyester
filaments
9329
Republic of Korea, China,
Vietnam
12
560811
Made up fishing nets of man-made
textile materials
4401
China, Malaysia, Thailand
13
560750
Twine, cordage, rope and cables of
other synthetic fibers
4049
France, China, Thailand
14
591131
Textile fabrics and felts, weighing
less than 650g/m2
3764
China, France, UK
15
591140
Straining cloth of a kind used in oil
presses and the like
2867
France, USA, Germany
16
520851
Plain woven fabrics of cotton (cotton
85% or more, printed, not more than
100g/m2)
2606
China, Pakistan, Republic of
Korea
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New
Zealand,
Chinese
Taipei,
May - June 2013
23/07/13 4:18 PM
S. No
HS Code
Description of products
Import value 2012 into Top Exporters to India
India in 1000 USD
17
520833
Twill woven fabrics of cotton (cotton
85% or more, dyed, not more than
200g/m2)
2590
China, Pakistan, Italy
18
520819
Other woven fabrics of cotton( cotton
85% or more, not more than 200g/
m2; unbleached)
1485
China, Singapore, Pakistan
19
590610
Adhesive tape of a width not
exceeding 20 cm
1426
Germany, China, Republic of
Korea
20
611710
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas,
veils, knitted or crocheted
1179
China, Italy, Austria
21
560900
Article of yarn, strip or the like of
artificial textile materials, rope
1047
China, Germany, UK
22
540500
Artificial monofilament of 67 decitex
or more
1007
UK, USA, Thailand
23
610711
Men’s or boy’s underpants, briefs, of
cotton, knitted or crocheted
892
China, Sri Lanka, Thailand
24
621410
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas,
veils of silk or silk waste
887
Italy, France, Nepal
25
590800
Textile wicks; Incandescent gas
mantles
850
Germany, USA, China
26
560749
Twine, cordage, rope and cables of
polyethylene or polypropylene
704
China, Germany, South Africa
27
621430
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas,
veils of synthetic fibers
622
China, Spain, Germany
28
611593
Stockings, socks of synthetic fibers,
knitted or crocheted
617
China, Switzerland, Israel
29
610821
Women’s or girls briefs, panties,
knitted or crocheted
572
Sri Lanka, China, Republic of
Korea
30
520821
Plain woven fabrics of cotton (cotton
85% or more, not more than 100g/
m2, bleached)
554
China, Singapore, Italy
31
580810
Braids in the piece
517
China, Hong Kong China,
Turkey
Source: ITC, Geneva and WITS database
Note: The first seven products in the list above have been notified by the ministry for mandatory standard development. The specifications of the
standards developed by Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) are available on their priced CD-ROM.
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Simultaneously developing a possible maneuver for introducing these standards:
Apart from trying to develop new standards, it is being explored how to evolve and introduce these standards. Since,
currently no mandatory standards exists in T&C sector, it is required that a suitable manner of introducing these
standards to the industry must be developed in a systematic and sustainable manner. The developed standards might
be introduced under the existing acts and orders pertaining to textiles. Given below, the existing provisions to introduce
these standards:
S.No
Parent Act
1
Textiles Committee Act, 1963
Provision
Textiles Committee Act; functions of the committee:
1*(c)- establish or adopt or recognize standard specifications for
textiles and packing materials used in the packing of textiles or textiles
machinery, for the purposes of export and for internal consumption
and affix suitable marks on such standardized varieties of textiles
and packing materials.
2
BIS Act, 1986
BIS act, Chapter IV; powers and functions of the bureau
10.(1) a- establish, publish and promote in such a manner as may be
prescribed the Indian Standard, in relation to any article or process;
10.(1) b- recognize as an Indian Standard, in such a manner as may
be prescribed, any standard established by any other institution in
India or elsewhere, in relation to any article or process
10.(1) (i)- undertake research for the formulation of Indian Standards
in the interests of consumers and manufacturers
14. If the central government after consulting the bureau, is of
the opinion that it is necessary or expedient so to do, in the public
interest, it may, by order published in the official gazettea. Notify any article or process of any scheduled industry which shall
conform to the Indian standard and;
b. Direct the use of the standard mark under a license as compulsory
on such article or process.
3
The Central Silk Board Act, 1948
The Central Silk Board (Amendment)act, 2006; Powers to make
regulations:
13A.2(ii) laying down of various standards relating to kinds or
varieties, production, testing, supply, distribution, trade and
commerce and export and import of silk worm seed under subsection (2 )of section 8B
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The following Maneuvers are suggested:
Maneuver-1
Textiles Committee
MOT validates it and a
second round of discussions
begin with trade & industry
opinions
On mutual consent
MOT may notify itself or
authorize TC, TXC, to notify
concerned authorities
Identification of products
for which mandatory
standards have to be
developed
BIS develops the
standards and notifies
MOT
MOT informs WTO of
the newly developed
regulations, WTO informs
all member countries
MOT validates the list
through discussions with
trade & industry, TXC,
EPC’s etc.
MOT may ask BIS to
develop certain mandatory
standards for textiles
Implementation process
takes place through
Department of Customs
Maneuver-2
Textiles Committee
MOT may assign TXC/TC
to notify the new
regulations
Identification of products
for which mandatory
standards have to be
developed
MOT approves as per the
provision
TC requests BIS to
develop standards for
identified products
TC receives the developed
standards from BIS and
submits to MOT for
validation or BIS notifies
MOT directly
MOT informs WTO of
the newly developed
regulations, WTO informs
all member countries
MOT/TXC/TC may
implement regulations
and coordinate with the
department of customs to
enforce them and bring
into practice
Conclusion and way forward
The due diligence requirements for developing standards
development of standards as they can validate with a better
have been carried on by Textiles Committee (TC). Bureau of
required insight of the specifications in a standard and
Indian Standards (BIS) has requisite expertise in developing
also the crucial products for whom developing mandatory
voluntary as well as mandatory standards for various products.
standards is of utmost importance. These discussions would
To develop mandatory standards and specifications for T&C
also bring out the possible constraints that the industry might
products, it is required that a joint committee must be made
face in order to comply with the mandatory standards. Once
among the two organisations to work closely on standard
the standard development process is over, the ministry can
development for specific T&C products. It is also necessary
further strengthen the approach by taking necessary actions
to involve the industry and trade people in the process of
for implementing it in a systematic and sustainable manner.
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T
ex
s C o m mi
tt
Ginners’ Speak
ex
tile
ee
Shri Anand Bhai Popat, Managing Director, Jalaram
Cotton & Proteins Ltd. Rajkot, Gujarat &
General Secretary, Saurashtra Ginners Association
T
u
tile
ee
Concept 5
s C om mi
tt
15
Star Unit
Star rating is a unique system introduced by Textiles Committee through which the Ginners
could be able to know the existing status of their factories with regard to the level of infrastructure
such as Machinery, Civil structure and their work practices. Based upon the star status we can
find out the scope for further improvement and enhance their capacity to face the competitive
market with greater confidence”.
“Textiles Committee should continue the scheme of grading the G&P units in the country. At
the same time, there should be wide publicity about star rated Ginning & Pressing factories
among the Textiles Trade & Industry so that the Spinners and other stakeholders in the cotton
supply chain would look for star rated units. Besides, the high star rated units should be given more benefits such as
concessions in insurance premium, allocation of more export quota for cotton and also preference in reaping the policy
benefits. Government should introduce best ginners award among star rated units with a view to increase modernization
and ethical work practices. It is also necessary to modify the rating system periodically in accordance with introduction of
new technology”.
u
Shri Ashok Agrwal, Managing Director, Mulchand
Phulchand Krishi Udyog Pvt. Ltd. & Ex-President,
Cotton Ginning & Pressing Association, Jalna, Maharashtra
Star Unit
Cotton Trade & Industry should look into the overall set up of Ginning & Pressing factories and
not just the quality of cotton while procuring bales of the Ginners. High star rated units are
definitely well equipped in terms of improved technology and better work practice and thereby
capable of producing quality cotton. Therefore market should privilege star rated units and also
pay premium price to their products. There should be periodic training programme to Ginners
to improve their star rating and enhancing the bargaining capacity.
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Concept 5
T
tile
ee
Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing Factories
ex
s C om m
itt
Textiles Committee has launched an Assessment and Star Rating System for Ginning & Pressing Factories
leading to a Rating Certificate. Each factory is placed in any one of the 5 grades ranging from “Single
T
tile
ee
Star “to “5 Star”. The rating methodology involves objective assessment of the quality of machinery, civil
ex
s C om mi
tt
structures and management practices.
15
The Benefits of the Star Rating for:
Spinning Mills
• Easier selection of ginnery for sourcing cotton.
• Undertake own ginning by choosing factories of desired rating.
• Select ginneries for contamination-free cotton.
Cotton Traders & Merchants
• Can choose ginneries of modernized facility quality with culture.
• Greater confidence to get the best returns on investment in cotton.
• Maximize output in the ginning process.
List of 5 Star Rated Ginning & Pressing Factories
Amit Cottons Pvt. Ltd.
Raghuvir Cotex Pvt. Ltd.
Loknayak Jayprakash Narayan Shetkari
Mahabubnagar,
Gondal, Gujarat- 360 311
Sahakari Soot Girni Ltd.
Andhra Pradesh- 509 202
Lezend Cotton Corporation,
Andhra Pradesh- 506 001
Swathi Ginning Mills Pvt. Ltd.
Medak, Andhra Pradesh- 502 277
Aditya Cotton & Oil Agrotech Industries,
Karimnagar, Andhra Pradesh- 505 122
Giriraj Cotex Pvt. Ltd.
Rajkot, Gujarat- 360 050
PCK Cotton Pvt. Ltd,
Dist. Jalgaon, Maharashtra
Jayshri Ginning & Spinning Pvt. Ltd.
Rajkot, Gujarat- 360 370
Rimtex Engineering Pvt. Ltd.
Sri Kailasanadha Cotton Syndicate (P) Ltd.
(Unit Cotton Ginning & Pressing),
Guntur, Andhra Pradesh- 522 007
Surendranagar, Gujarat
Nandurbar, Maharashtra
Gima Manufacturing Pvt. Ltd.
Maharashtra- 442 301
Shri Balaji Fibers,
Yavatmal, Maharashtra- 445 304
Shrigopal Rameshkumar Sales (P) Ltd.
(Ginning & Pressing Factory), Nagpur,
Maharashtra
Classic Knits India (Pvt.) Ltd;
Dist. Dharwad, Karnataka- 580 004
Jalaram Cotton & Proteins Ltd,
Mep Cotton Ltd.
Rajkot, Gujarat- 360 050
Gujarat- 360 311
Shiv Cotton Industries,
Tungabhadra Ginning & Pressing
Rajkot, Gujarat- 360 311
Factory, Bellary, Karnataka
For detailed information about all Rated Ginning & Pressing factories please contact:
EP
QATimes
Division, Textiles Committee, Mumbai. Tel. 91-22-66527600/603/604/610,27
66527507 Email: secy.tc@nic.in, depqa.tc@nic.in, pro.tc@nic.in
The&TC
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Textiles Committee - Regional Offices
1)AHMEDABAD
“Ankur” Building, 2ND Floor,
Shanti Sadan Estate, Opp. Dinbai
Tower, Mirzapur Road, Lal-Darwaja,
Ahmedabad- 380 001
Gujarat
Telefax- 079-25507612
E-mail-abd.tc@nic.in
2)BENGALURU
FKCCI, WTC Building, 1st Floor,
Kempegowda Road,
Bengaluru- 560 009
Karnataka
Tel- 080-22208010
Telefax- 080-22261401
E-mail- blr.tc@nic.in
10)ICHALKARANJI
Hall No.1, Ward No.10,
Rajaram Stadium,
Near Shivaji Putala,
Ichalkaranji- 416 115
Dist- Kolhapur
Maharashtra
Tel- 0230-2420838
E-mail-ichl.tc@nic.in
11)INDORE
C-1/F, “Vikas Towers”,
Indira Complex, Navlakha,
Indore- 452 001
Madhya Pradesh
Tel- 0731-2401243
Fax- 0731-4230381
E-mail-indore.tc@nic.in
3)BHUBANESWAR
Hastatanta Bhawan
Unit-IX, Janpath
Bhubaneswar- 751 022
Odisha
Telefax- 0674-2543723
E-mail - bbs.tc@nic.in
12)JAIPUR
NGR-1, Nehru Place, Tonk Road,
Jaipur - 302 015
Rajasthan
Tel- 0141-2743453, 5105234
Fax PP- 0141-2740141
E-mail-jpr.tc@nic.in
4)CHENNAI
Old No.212, New No.130,
R. K. Mutt Road, Mylapore,
Chennai- 600 004
Tamilnadu
Telefax- 044-24615901 /
24610887 / 24640740
E-mail-chennai.tc@nic.in
13)KANNUR
2nd Floor, Platinum Centre,
Bank Road, Kannur - 670 001
Kerala
Tel- 0497-2706390
Fax- 0497-2706390
E-mail-kannur.tc@nic.in
5)COIMBATORE
Raj Chambers, 978-A,
Thadagam Road,
Coimbatore – 641 002
Tamilnadu
Tel-0422-2473094
0422-2478758
Telefax- 0422-2472689
E-mail-cbe.tc@nic.in
14)KANPUR
Ground and First Floor,
117/48, Near Bank of Baroda
Sarvodaya Nagar
Kanpur- 208 005
Uttar Pradesh
Tel- 0512-2212548, 2240066
Fax- 0512-2212548
E-mail-kanpur.tc@nic.in
6)GUNTUR
Sai Ram Complex, Door No-25-1-9,
Near Mastan Darga, G. T. Road,
Guntur- 522 004
Andhra Pradesh
Tel- 0863-2218951
E-mail-gnt.tc@nic.in
15)KARUR
II Floor, K. V. R. Complex,
21-J, 80 Feet Road,
Karur- 639 002
Tamilnadu
Tel- 04324-238610
Telefax- 04324-274871
E-mail-krr.tc@nic.in
7)GURGAON
Showroom No. 205, Apparel House,
Institutional Area, Sector-44,
Gurgaon- 122 003
Haryana
Tel- 0124-2572564
16)KOCHI
Office No. 52, 4th Floor,
Marine Drive Commercial Complex,
Shanmugam Road,
Kochi- 682 031
Kerala
Tel- 0484-2360814
8)GUWAHATI
Quality Control Office Building,
2nd Floor, Industrial Estate,
Bamunimaidan,
Guwahati- 781 021
Assam
Tel- 0361-2653020
17)KOLKATA
Block- GN, Plot– 38/3, Sector– V,
Salt Lake, Kolkata- 700 091
West Bengal
Tel- 033-23575155/ 23571008
Telefax- 033-23575202
E-mail-kol.tc@nic.in
9)HYDERABAD
D. No.: 10-1-1200, 1st Floor,
UNI Building, A. C. Guards,
Masab Tank Road,
Hyderabad – 500 004,
Andhra Pradesh
Telefax- 040-23327153
E-mail-hyd.tc@nic.in
18)LUDHIANA
48-B, Tagore Nagar, Civil Lines,
Ludhiana- 141 001
Punjab
Tel- 0161-2305635
Telefax- 0161-2304906
E-mail-ldh.tc@nic.in
19)MADURAI
11-B, Jawahar Road, Chockikulam,
Madurai- 625 002
Tamilnadu
Tel- 0452-2535758
Telefax- 0452-2535748
E-mail-mdu.tc@nic.in
20)NAGPUR
“Brindavan” 1st Floor,
744, West High Court Road,
Dharampeth, Nagpur- 440 010
Maharashtra
Land Mark: Near Laxmi Bhawan Chowk,
Besides State Bank of India.
Telefax- 0712-2561564
E-mail-ngr.tc@nic.in
21)NEW DELHI(EoK)
39, Community Centre,
East of Kailash
New Delhi- 110 065
Telefax- 011-26483476
E-mail-ndl2.tc@nic.in
22)NEW DELHI(N)
40, Community Centre, Phase I,
Naraina Industrial Area,
New Delhi- 110 028
Tel- 011-65496570/ 25791380
Telefax- 011-25896150/3241
E-mail-ndl1.tc@nic.in
23)PANIPAT
SCO 32, First Floor, HUDA , Sector 11,
Near R. P. Stone Clinic, Panipat- 132 103
Haryana
Tel- 0180-2668325
Telefax- 0180-2668324
E-mail-pnp.tc@nic.in
24)SALEM
S. K. Complex, 2nd Floor, 54/598,
Trichy Main Road
Gugai , Salem- 636 006
Tamilnadu
Tel- 0427-2467740
E-mail- salem.tc@nic.in
25)SOLAPUR
162/11, Railway Lines,
Solapur- 413 001
Maharashtra
Telefax- 0217-2312698
E-mail-slpr.tc@nic.in
26)SRINAGAR
Raj Baugh, Opp. Radio Colony,
Srinagar- 190 008, Jammu & Kashmir
27)SURAT
Block No. 2(A), 2nd Floor, Resham Bhawan,
Lal Darwaja, Surat- 395 003, Gujarat
Tel- 0261-2423167
E-mail-surat.tc@nic.in
28)TIRUPUR
Plot No. 8, 9,Thiru Vika Nagar, 1st cross,
College Road, Tirupur- 641 602
Tamilnadu
Tel- 0421-2201402/2237935
Telefax- 0421-2202500
E-mail-tpr.tc@nic.in
29)VARANASI
C/o Eastern U. P. Exporters’ Association
B-2, Gurukripa Colony,
Nadesar, Varanasi- 221 002
Uttar Pradesh
Tel- 0542-2500616
E-mail-var.tc@nic.in
Printed & Published by:
The Secretary
Textiles Committee, Government of India, Ministry of Textiles
P. Balu Road, Prabhadevi, Mumbai – 400025
T:022 +66527507 F:022 +66527509
E: secy.tc@nic.in W: www.textilescommittee.nic.in / www.textilescommittee.gov.in
TC Newsletter May 2013 Working for News.indd 28
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