Bulletin 4001
Chemical Injection Technologies
Installation/Service Bulletin
SUPERIOR Gas Chlorinator/Sulfonator ‡
Guide to Installation, Troubleshooting and Maintenance
IMPORTANT!! READ THESE PRECAUTIONS BEFORE PROCEEDING!!!
They are very important for your personal safety, and for proper chlorinator operation.
Read these precautions and all related instructions thoroughly and follow them carefully. If you do not understand any
of the information, call your local SUPERIOR supplier or Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc. Do not attempt to install
or operate any gas chlorination/sulfonation equipment unless you are properly trained.
2. Read the "CHLORINATOR CYLINDER CHANGING PROCEDURE" card supplied with your chlorinator, and be certain you
fully understand the information presented on the card. If you do not have the card, contact your local SUPERIOR
supplier or Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc. and we will supply one.
3. Make certain all required safety equipment is in place and operational.
4. When performing any maintenance or changing cylinders, Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc. strongly recommends
that a gas mask (a pressure-demand type air pack is strongly recommended) should be available in the immediate area
of the chlorination equipment and all operating personnel should be properly trained in its use.
5. Chlorine gas or the fumes from chlorine solutions can be lethal in large enough doses. Therefore, you should always
have a co-worker observe from a safe location when you are working on any type of chlorination equipment.
6. Avoid breathing the gas or fumes of chlorine solutions and avoid contact with your skin. Work only in a well-ventilated
area. Chlorine will bleach clothing.
7. Before working on the chlorination system, make certain that the cylinder valve is shut off. If it seems to be shut off
already, open it one quarter turn and immediately close it to make certain that the valve is not frozen in the open position.
If the valve stem does not turn easily, you may use the heel of your hand to tap the cylinder wrench. Never use a hammer
or other tool to force the valve stem. If you cannot turn the cylinder valve in either direction, always assume it is open.
BE POSITIVE THIS VALVE IS CLOSED BEFORE LOOSENING THE CHLORINATOR MOUNTING YOKE OR VALVE CAP.
If you are not sure, call your chlorine supplier.
8. Do not use wrenches larger than the standard cylinder wrench and do not hit the wrench with a heavy object to open
or close the valve.
9. Do not re-use lead gaskets. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! Do not re-use a lead gasket because used gaskets will not
properly seal the chlorinator/cylinder connection and will cause leaks.
10. Use only lead gaskets. Other types may contract with temperature variations resulting in the escape of gas.
11. Check for chlorine gas leaks every time the chlorinator is connected or remounted onto the cylinder. Using a plastic
squeeze bottle of strong ammonia, approximately a full, squeeze fumes under the lead gasket connection and around
the cylinder valve bonnet and valve stem. A piece of rag or paper towel wetted with ammonia may also be held under
the connection. Do not pour ammonia onto the valve or connection. A chlorine or Sulfur Dioxide leak will create "smokelike" fumes similar to cigarette smoke. Correct the leak before proceeding.
12. Open the cylinder valve ¼ to ½ turn only, and leave the wrench on the cylinder valve when it is open.
13. The rate valve is not a shut-off valve. To shut-off chlorine, use the chlorine cylinder valve.
14. Always use safety chains or clamps to secure the chlorine cylinders so they may not be accidentally tipped over.
Protective hoods and valve caps must be in place whenever cylinders are not in use.
1.
NOTE: These instructions are also applicable to SUPERIOR Gas Sulfonators. Just substitute "sulfonator" wherever the word
"chlorinator" appears and substitute "sulfur dioxide" wherever "chlorine" appears. Parts for the two types of units, except for
the front and back bodies, the diaphragm front and back plates, and the remote meter panel bodies are interchangeable.
‡
To prevent reliquification or condensing of Sulfur Dioxide (SO2) gas in locations where the temperature may fall below 500F
(100C), sulfonator installations should be inside a heated enclosure. DO NOT apply heat directly to chlorine or sulfur dioxide
cylinders as this will cause a rapid increase in the gas pressure which could rupture the cylinder.
Pub. No. 1197-1
Copyright © 1997, Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc
Printed in U.S.A.
Contents
1.0 INSTALLATION
4.0 TROUBLESHOOTING
Handling of Chlorine Cylinders
Mounting Vacuum Regulator
Installation of Remote Meter Panel
Installation of Ejector
Piping of Ejector
Connecting Vacuum Regulator to Remote Meter and
to Vent.
1.7 Automatic Switchover systems
1.8 Multiple Feed Point Systems
1.9 Additional Installation Suggestions
1.1
1.2
1.3
1.4
1.5
1.6
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
4.6
4.7
5.0 SERVICE / DISASSEMBLY
Ejector Check Valve - Cleaning
Ejector Check Valve - Replacement
Cleaning / Inspection of Ejector Nozzle
Cleaning Chlorine Rate Adjustment Valve and
Metering Tube
5.5 Cleaning Inlet Safety Shut Off Valve and Seat
5.6 Disassembly of Vacuum Regulator Body
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.4
2.0 START-UP
2.1 Check Ejector
2.2 Check Chlorinator
3.0 SHUT DOWN
the vacuum regulator. Never use other types of gaskets
or gasket materials. Never re-use the lead gasket.
Replace the lead gasket each time the chlorine cylinder
is changed.
1.0 INSTALLATION
(See Drawing No. 1)
IMPORTANT : Before proceeding, read "Precautions"
1.2.7 Mount vacuum regulator on cylinder valve by placing
the yoke over the valve, engage the vacuum regulator
inlet properly with the valve outlet, and tighten the yoke
screw, compressing the lead gasket. Excessive
tightening will squeeze the lead gasket out of the joint
and should be avoided. Do not open the chlorine
cylinder valve until all components are installed. See
section 2.0 "Start-Up".
1.1 Handling of Chlorine Cylinders
Chlorine gas is potentially dangerous.
must always be adhered to:
Chlorine Leak
Loss of Chlorine Feed
Sticky Ball in Remote Meter Tube/Rate Valve Panel
Water in Chlorinator - "Flooding"
Vacuum Leaks
Failure to Repeat Set Feed Rate
Icing of Metering Tube - Liquid Chlorine
The following rules
1.1.1 Never move a cylinder unless the valve protection cap
is screwed on tightly.
1.1.2 Locate the cylinders where they will not be bumped or
damaged.
1.3 Installation of Remote Meter Module
1.3.1 Install remoter meter panel right side up in a location
that is convenient for the operator and/or affords
greatest security. Connect vacuum tubing from the
vacuum regulator to the remote meter panel and from
the remote meter panel to the ejector as shown in
Drawing No. 1.
1.1.3 A safety chain should be placed around the cylinders
and secured to a wall or support.
1.1.4 When the vacuum regulator is mounted directly on the
chlorine cylinder valve, the cylinder and chlorinator need
not be in a heated room. For outdoor installation, when
temperatures exceed 1000 F., the cylinder should be
shaded from direct sunlight.
1.4 Installation of Ejector
(See Photo Nos. 1.2, 1.3, 1.4)
1.1.5 Do not open the cylinder valve more than ¼ to ½ turn.
1.4.1 The check valves in the ejector are designed in such a
manner that the ejector may be installed in any position.
Note: The term "Chlorinator", as used in this publication, refers to
the Vacuum Regulator, the Remote Meter Tube/Rate Valve Panel,
and the Ejector Assembly, as a complete system.
1.4.2 The point of injection should be carefully chosen so that
the water pressure at this point I(back pressure) s as
low as possible. Vacuum is created in the ejector by the
nozzle which is actually a precision designed venturi.
Water pressure to the nozzle must be high enough to
overcome the back pressure and create a strong jet in
the nozzle.
1.2 Mounting Vacuum Regulator
(See Photo No. 1.1)
Follow these steps to mount vacuum regulator on the chlorine
cylinder valve.
1.4.3 The standard ejector is designed to withstand static
back pressures in excess of 250 psig (17.5 kg/cm 2).
However, due to possibilities of water line "torque" in
high pressure on-off systems, as well as special booster
pump considerations, it is recommended that a factory
representative, or Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc.
be consulted regarding installation details in systems
over 100 psig (7 kg/cm 2).
1.2.1 Unscrew the valve protection cap from the chlorine
cylinder.
1.2.2 Check to make sure the cylinder valve is closed.
Carefully unscrew the cap nut which covers the chlorine
cylinder valve outlet.
1.2.3 Remove any dirt that may be in the valve outlet or on
the outlet gasket surface.
1.4.4 Generally, the amount of water (GPM) required to
operate the ejector depends upon the chlorine flow rate
(lbs./24 hrs. or gr./hr.). The higher the chlorine flow rate,
the greater the water flow needed.
1.2.4 Remove all shipping tape & inlet protective cap from the
vacuum regulator. (DO NOT remove the porous, white
filter which is inserted in the vacuum regulator inlet).
1.2.5 Unscrew the yoke screw until the sliding valve plate can
be pushed all the way back.
1.2.6 Place 1/16" thick lead gasket over the chlorine inlet of
2
1.2
1.1
1.4
1.3
1.5
3
1.4.5 Ejector water supply pressure must be greater than the
pressure into which solution is ejected. The amount of
pressure differential may vary with the particular
application. Generally, the greater the pressure into
recommended very strongly.
which the chlorine will be injected, the greater the
required differential pressure. However, the minimum
pressure differential and water flow for your installation
should be determined prior to installation and start-up.
1.5.4 Connect hose between the hose adaptor and the
ejector nozzle. Clamp the hose securely at both ends
with single or double hose clamps.
(Photo No. 1.5).
1.4.6 Follow these steps for installing close-coupled diffuser
and ejector.
1.5.5 When rigid piping is used all the way up to the ejector
inlet instead of hose, cut off the hose adaptor "barbs" on
the nozzle where the 1" NPT threads start. Be certain to
install pipe unions to allow maintenance.
a. Unscrew the diffuser from the assembly. DO NOT
install the diffuser when the ejector is assembled or
damage may occur.
b. Put Teflon tape on the 1" pipe threads and screw the
diffuser into the pipe. These are high-strength plastic
parts, but like all plastic pipe fittings, care should be
exercised in tightening. Tighten carefully with
properly adjusted wrench. Make sure that the holes
in the spray type diffuser are in the main stream. The
end of an open type diffuser should not allow strong
chlorine solution to come into contact with metal
pipe or fittings, as this will cause serious corrosion.
(Photo No. 1.2).
1.6 Connecting Vacuum Regulator to Remote Meter and to vent
1.6.1 Appropriate size plastic tubing is normally used for the
vacuum line between the vacuum regulator and remote
meter; the remote meter and ejector; and for the
emergency vent. Use enough length for each line to
allow for movement of the vacuum regulator from one
cylinder to another.
1.6.2 Remove connector nut from connector and slip onto
tube. Push tube onto connector and tighten connector
nut HAND TIGHT.
c. Place a gasket (GK-125) into the recess on each side
of the check valve body. Insert the nozzle through
the check valve body (Photo No. 1.3). Hold the
check valve body against the diffuser at ¼ turn
COUNTER CLOCKWISE from its final position (up,
down, side- ways).
1.6.3 Upper connector on chlorinator vacuum regulator is for
connecting the vacuum tubing to the bottom connector
of the remote meter. The upper connector on the
remote meter is for connecting the vacuum tubing to
the ejector. The lower connector on the chlorinator
vacuum regulator is for vent line exhausting to safe
location outside building. An insect screen is provided
for the outside of the vent line, and MUST be installed
to prevent insects from entering the vacuum regulator
and causing service problems.
d. Screw the nozzle into the diffuser, by HAND ONLY,
until contact is made against both gaskets. Turn the
check valve body and the nozzle, at the same time,
¼ turn clockwise to the final, tight position (Photo
No. 1.4). Attach water supply hose and tighten
clamps. (Photo No. 1.5).
1.4.7 Other types of diffuser and ejector installations may be
desired for certain applications:
1.7 Automatic Switchover Systems
(See Drawing No. 2.)
a. The ejector (nozzle and check valve assembly) may
be located near the vacuum regulator. A wall
mounting bracket can be provided for the assembly,
and the outlet can be supplied with various sizes of
adaptors for solution hose or pipe.
Mount vacuum regulators onto separate cylinder valves and
install ejector as described above in sections 1.2 and 1.4.
b. If the ejector is to be remotely installed with solution
piping or hose running to the point of application, be
certain to cut off the tip of the diffuser before
installing into the pipe or hose. Failure to do this will
result in excessive back- pressure being created in
the diffuser, causing chlorine feed rate to drop off or
stop.
1.7.2 Mount the remote metering tube/rate control panel on
wall, preferably between the automatic switchover
module and the ejector.
c. The entire diffuser-ejector assembly
submersed in an open channel or tank.
1.7.4 Connect vacuum tubing from the tubing connector on
the top of the switchover module to the tubing
connector at the bottom of the remote meter panel, and
connect tubing from the top connector of the remote
meter panel to the ejector. [Special order "Right/Left"
side remote meter panels are available which allow
vacuum connectors to be installed on either side of the
remote meter panel. Plugs are inserted in the unused
fitting holes.]
may
1.7.1 Mount Automatic Switchover Module on wall as near as
possible to the chlorine cylinders.
1.7.3 Connect vacuum tubing from the "vacuum" outlet of
each vacuum regulator to the tubing connectors on
each side of the automatic switchover module.
be
d. Diffuser tubes with corporation cocks can be
supplied for either close coupled or remote ejectors.
e. Special diffusers can be supplied for use with PVC
Ball valves.
1.5 Piping of Ejector
1.8 Multiple-Point Feed Systems
(See Drawing No. 3)
1.5.1 For most installations, the ejector water supply line
should be brought to within 3-5 feet of the nozzle with
rigid copper or iron pipe, or schedule 80 PVC pipe.
Mount vacuum regulator onto cylinder as described in section
1.2. Mount each individual ejector as described in section 1.4.
Connect vacuum tubing from vacuum regulator to remote
meter panels, using tubing connector "Tee's", and from
individual meter panels to respective ejectors as shown in
Drawing. No. 3.
NOTE: Each ejector must be installed as if it were a
completely separate chlorination system, with the proper water
flow and differential pressure.
1.5.2 A shut-off valve followed by a Y-type strainer and the
ejector is desirable as a service tool, and is highly
recommended.
1.5.3 A pressure gauge installed between the Y-type strainer
and the ejector is desirable as a service tool, and is
5
2.2.5 Re-connect plastic vacuum tube. Open chlorine cylinder
valve 1/4 turn and close immediately.
1.9 Additional Installation Suggestions
1.9.1
Many operators find it convenient to install a "hook" on
the wall behind the chlorine cylinder, slightly above the
vacuum regulator. When changing cylinders, the
vacuum regulator can easily be hung on this "hook"
while moving new cylinders into place.
1.9.2
A beam-type scale should be used to weigh chlorine
cylinders while in use to determine the amount of
chlorine remaining.
2.2.6 Wet small piece of cloth in household ammonia (avoid
breathing fumes) and hold below the lead gasket inlet
connection and below the cylinder valve bonnet. If
chlorine is leaking, a smoke will appear similar to
cigarette smoke. Tighten bonnet or replace gasket and
eliminate leaks. (NOTE: Do not pour ammonia solution
on the vacuum regulator or cylinder valve).
2.2.7 Open chlorine cylinder valve 1/4 turn, leave open, and
recheck for chlorine leaks.
2.0 START-UP
2.2.8 Turn on water supply valve to ejector and adjust rate
valve to desired chlorine flow rate. Flow rate in lbs./24
hrs., or gr./hr. is read on the meter scale at the center of
the ball for all flow rates except 200 to 500 PPD which
are read at the top of the ball. Don't forget to reset the
"Loss of Chlorine" indicator.
2.1 Check Ejector
2.1.1 The ejector, with its water supply and solution lines,
must be properly installed and operating before
checking the chlorinator: IMPORTANT: do not connect
ejector to the chlorine vacuum tubing before applying
water pressure to the ejector assembly. Dirt or debris
can become lodged in the check valve during
installation. Cycle the ejector on and off several times to
insure tight closing. Failure to follow this procedure can
cause water to enter the chlorinator, requiring
disassembly.
NOTE: NEVER use the rate valve to shut off the chlorine
supply. This valve is for adjusting flow rate while the
system is in operation. To shut off chlorine flow close the
cylinder valve.
3.0 SHUT-DOWN
2.1.2 Unless the ejector is creating a vacuum, the chlorinator
will not work. Follow these steps:
IMPORTANT : Before proceeding, read "Precautions".
a. Make sure the plastic vacuum tube is disconnected
from the ejector.
b. With the booster pump running, or pressurized water
supply connected, open the ejector water supply
valve. The ejector should be in operation and
creating a vacuum.
c. Put your finger on the vacuum connector opening of
ejector and feel the vacuum. This is a strong vacuum
and there should be no doubt that a vacuum exists.
If there is no vacuum, refer to Section 1.4 and be
certain the supply pressure is sufficient and that the
nozzle or piping is not plugged.
Correct the
condition and obtain proper vacuum before
proceeding.
d. Be sure that no water is coming out of the vacuum
tube fitting when the ejector is shut off. If water is
observed leaking past the check valve, see Service
Section 5.1 and correct before proceeding.
e. Re-connect the vacuum tube to check chlorinator.
Leave the ejector running.
2.2 Check Chlorinator
(Have strong household ammonia and a piece of cloth
available to check for chlorine leaks. Avoid breathing the
fumes).
2.2.1 With the ejector operating, and the chlorine cylinder still
closed, the ball in the metering tube will remain at the
bottom. If the ball does not remain at the bottom, or
bounces up and down, there is either a leak at the lead
gasket where the vacuum regulator connects on the
cylinder or a loose connection in the system. Check and
correct.
2.2.2 The supply indicator on the face of the vacuum
regulator will be visible as RED. Double check by
attempting to RESET the indicator. It should NOT be
able to be reset.
2.2.3 Close the ejector water supply valve or turn off the
booster pump to stop operation of the ejector.
2.2.4 Disconnect the plastic vacuum tube at the vacuum
regulator and pull off the tube to allow air to enter
system.
IMPORTANT : Before proceeding, read "Precautions".
6
3.1
Shut off water supply valve and/or booster pump.
3.2
Shut off the chlorine cylinder valve - not the rate valve.
3.3
When changing cylinders, follow the procedure on the
cylinder changing chart supplied with your SUPERIOR
Gas Chlorinator. Make certain that the cylinder valve is
closed before removing the vacuum regulator.
4.1.4 Vacuum Regulator inlet capsule seat (adaptor face seal
O-ring OR-103)
Care and Maintenance of Your Superior
Gas Chlorinator.
Chlorine leaking out between the back body and the
yoke assembly, or from the space between the front and
back bodies usually indicates a leak at the o'ring seal
between the inlet valve capsule and the inlet adaptor.
The usual causes are listed below.
See section 5.5 under "Service".
GENERAL
This section covers all phases of service on SUPERIOR Direct Cylinder
Mounted Gas Chlorinators. Normally it is not necessary to completely
disassemble the chlorinator unless the unit is to be cleaned throughout,
or the unit has been severely flooded. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE
UNIT MERELY FOR THE SAKE OF DISASSEMBLY . All units have been
factory tested and are in perfect condition when they are shipped.
a. Improper tightening of the inlet valve capsule after
disassembly.
b. Dirt or impurities on the o'ring or sealing surfaces.
This text describes some of the things that can cause a chlorinator to
stop working. Read it carefully and find out what the problem is before
corrective measures are taken.
c. Failure to re-install
disassembly.
4.0 TROUBLESHOOTING
the
OR-103
o'ring
after
d. Damaged or worn OR-103 o'ring.
4.2 Loss of Chlorine Feed
(There are four possible reasons for loss of chlorine feed.)
SUPERIOR Gas Chlorinators will require minimum service if
operated with reasonable care. Problems which could arise are
listed below.
4.2.1 No vacuum.
4.1 Chlorine Leak
This can readily be checked by removing the chlorine
gas line at the ejector-diffuser and holding your thumb
over the fitting. Suitable vacuum will exert a strong pull.
If there is no vacuum, the ejector nozzle may be
plugged. Refer to section 5.3 under "Service" (Cleaning
the Ejector nozzle).
IMPORTANT : Before proceeding, read the "Precautions".
There are four possible points of chlorine pressure
leaks. These are not unusual, but if a chlorine leak is
detected it should be immediately located and stopped.
Even small leaks can create a safety hazard and cause
serious corrosion to equipment in the area. Ammonia
should be used to detect leaks (as described in 2.2.6
under START-UP).
4.2.2 Insufficient water pressure to operate ejector-diffuser.
This can be readily checked in the same manner as
above by holding the thumb over the ejector vacuum
fitting.
4.1.1 Chlorine cylinder valve packing.
4.2.3 No chlorine supply.
The chlorine cylinder valve is a high quality valve
designed specifically for chlorine service. Chlorine
suppliers should service this valve at each filling and
leakage at this point is unusual. Should a leak develop,
tighten the cylinder valve packing nut without exerting
excessive force. If this does not eliminate the leak,
close the valve and call the chlorine supplier.
This should be obvious.
When the chlorine cylinder becomes empty, the
metering ball will not indicate chlorine feed and the
supply indicator on the vacuum regulator will show RED.
4.2.4 Plugged vacuum regulator inlet filter.
4.1.2 The lead gasket seal between the vacuum regulator and
the chlorine cylinder valve.
Dirt from the cylinder may completely plug the highefficiency, porous filter, The filter may be removed for
inspection and cleaning. See section 5.5.10 under
"Service".
A leak at this point is caused by:
•Reusing a lead gasket
•Dirt on the gasket surfaces
•Under or over tightened connection
•Installation without a gasket
•Using a "fiber" type gasket (only lead gaskets should
be used).
4.2.4 Broken or leaking vacuum line(s).
4.3 Sticky Ball in Remote Meter Tube/Rate Valve Panel
4.3.1 Deposits
Use a new lead gasket. Make certain the gasket and
gasket surfaces are clean and smooth. Tighten clamp,
but not excessively. (Photo No. 4.1)
a. Chlorine gas may contain traces of organic
compounds. These compounds can cause deposits
on the ball or the glass tube. The deposit is often
sticky, causing the ball to adhere to the surface of
the glass. This can cause erratic operation. When
this occurs it is necessary to clean the meter tube
assembly. The cleaning procedure is outlined in
section 5.4 under "Service" (Cleaning Chlorine
Meter).
4.1.3 Chlorinator shut-off valve - "Venting"
Chlorine leaking out of the vent is an indication of a leak
at the safety shut-off valve. The usual cause is dirt on
the valve seat. Test to make certain the problem is a
leak at this point.
b. Excessive amounts of lubricants applied to o'rings
during service re-assembly can cause deposits to
form on the metering tube ball and tube walls.
a. Shut off water supply to ejector-diffuser.
b. Submerge the end of the vent tubing in a glass of
water. Continuous bubbling is an indication of a
chlorine leak.
c. The frequency of cleaning depends on a number of
factors, Small chlorinators (below 10 PPD or 200
gr./hr.) will require cleaning more often than higher
capacity units. The quality of the chlorine and the
operating temperature of the installation affect the
frequency of cleaning. Our experience indicates that
a 10 PPD unit may have to be cleaned as often as
every 4 or 5 months or may not require cleaning for
several years.
c. Before removing the unit from the cylinder, close the
cylinder valve, turn on the water supply, and allow
the chlorinator to operate until the metering ball
drops to the bottom.
d. Refer to section 5.5 under "Service" (cleaning safety
shut-off Valve and Seat).
7
d. When the ball drops to zero, shut off the ejector
supply water. Note that the chlorine supply indicator
can not be reset to GREEN. With a perfectly tight
system this condition will remain. Usually a 5 or 10
minute check is all that is required. If a leak exists in
the system, the diaphragm assembly will move
allowing the chlorine supply indicator to be reset. If
you are unsure about the position of the indicator,
remove the "vent" tubing from the lower vacuum tube
connector. Using some "soapy" water (water and
dishwashing detergent are best) place a soap
"bubble" over the connector hole. If the bubble gets
larger it indicates that a vacuum leak exists.
4.3.2 Moisture in the system
a. In the normal course of operation, moisture
should not be present. However, it is possible in
changing cylinders that very moist air could be
drawn into the inlet. This can cause the metering
tube ball to become "sticky" particularly on the
bottom c to ¼ of the tube.
b. If the chlorinator has been previously "flooded" (see
section 4.4) it is possible that all moisture has not
been removed from the gas passageways in the
vacuum regulator and/or remote meter/rate valve.
c. A severe vacuum leak can allow moist air to enter
the system. (see section 4.5).
4.5.3 The most common cause of vacuum leaks is improper
assembly of units that have been taken apart for
servicing.
4.4 Water in Chlorinator - "Flooding"
4.5.4 The most common points of leakage are listed as
follows:
4.4.1 During chlorinator operation, vacuum draws chlorine
gas through the system and water cannot enter the
chlorinator. When the system is shut down, water under
pressure is prevented from backing up into the
chlorinator by means of a back flow check valve. Any
water observed in the chlorinator indicates a failure of
the back flow check valve to seal properly. If the leak is
severe or the check valve is damaged, water may be
observed coming out of the "vent" tubing:
a. Chlorine metering tube gaskets
If the chlorine meter is not installed straight or the
rate valve seat (RV-130) is not tightened properly a
leak could develop.
NOTE: Excessive tightening can also cause a leak. Metering
tube gaskets can be re-used. However, except for "Lip"
type gaskets, they should be turned over to re-use.
a. Shut off the water supply to the ejector and the water
in the main, so there is no pressure in the ejector
piping.
b. Rate valve o'rings
b. Remove the vacuum tube from the ejector and follow
instructions for "Cleaning Ejector Check Valve",
Section 5.1 and for "Replacing Ejector Check Valve",
Section 5.2, if damage is observed.
Rate valve o'rings (OR-102) may become worn.
Fouling of the surfaces might cause abrasion of the
o'ring surface.
c. Sealing surface at main diaphragm
c. Close the chlorine cylinder valve and remove the
vacuum regulator from the cylinder. Remove the
metering tube from the remote meter module and
follow instructions in Section 5.4 "Cleaning Rate
Adjustment Valve and Metering Tube".
An imperfection or speck of dirt on this surface
during reassembly may cause a vacuum leak, but
SUPERIOR's use of a compression sealing o'ring
(OR-108) makes this unlikely.
d. Follow instructions for "Disassembly of Vacuum
Regulator Body" in Section 5.6 and be certain all
moisture is removed before reassembling. Also, be
certain no moisture remains in the vacuum tubing
between the vacuum regulator and remote meter
panel.
d. Vacuum tubing and connectors
Check vacuum tubing for cracks, particularly under
tubing connector nuts. Check vacuum tubing
connectors.
e. Other possible points of leakage which are not as
common:
e. Follow "Start-Up" procedure in Section 2.
(1) O'ring at inlet capsule (OR-106)
(2) Vent seal on diaphragm (OR-110)
4.5 Vacuum Leaks
4.5.1 For best operation all parts of the chlorinator system
should be air-tight, since vacuum leaks will permit air to
enter the system. All units are vacuum tested at the
factory prior to shipment, therefore, a vacuum leak on a
new unit is unlikely. Furthermore, it is very unusual for
leaks to develop during operation unless the unit has
been disassembled.
4.6 Failure to Repeat Set Feed Rate
4.6.1 On start-up (where the chlorinator is actuated
automatically with water flow) a chlorinator with a dirty
meter or rate adjustment valve may not repeat.
This is particularly true of low capacity units below
10 PPD chlorine feed rate. Correction of this situation
can be accomplished by:
4.5.2 A simple test determines whether or not a chlorinator
system is free of vacuum leaks. Proceed as follows:
a. Cleaning the rate adjustment valve as outlined in
Section 5.4.
a. Operate the chlorinator normally at any arbitrary
chlorine setting.
b. Cleaning the chlorine meter as outlined in Section
5.4. The frequency of cleaning depends on the
quality of chlorine.
b. Shut off the chlorine cylinder valve. (It is assumed
that the cylinder valve will shut off tightly. A defective
valve will give erroneous results).
4.6.2 Failure to repeat may also occur if the chlorinator has
been flooded and moisture remains in the metering and
rate adjustment areas.
c. The ball in the chlorine meter should drop to zero.
(For very low capacity units this may take as long as
5 minutes). If the ball does not drop to the bottom
this indicates a vacuum air leak at some point in the
system, usually between the chlorine inlet and the
metering tube.
8
4.1
5.3
5.6
5.2
5.1
5.5
5.4
5.7
9
5.8
5.9
5.10
5.11
5.12
5.13
5.14
5.15
5.16
10
5.17
4.7 Icing of Metering Tube - Liquid Chlorine
4.7.1 If ice is observed forming on the remote meter tube it is
a definite indication that liquid chlorine has entered the
chlorinator from the cylinder. While this is extremely
rare, our experience has shown that chlorine suppliers
have been known to overfill chlorine cylinders (rarely)
causing liquid to enter the chlorinator. Also, if the
cylinder should be tipped over while the chlorinator is
operating, liquid may be drawn into the system.
Ton Containers; If the vacuum regulator is mounted
directly onto the gas outlet valve of a ton container
(using a ton container adaptor), it is possible that the
"dip" tube inside the container has been broken off or a
hole has developed, allowing liquid chlorine to be drawn
into the vacuum regulator instead of gas. Also, check
to be certain that the heater on the adaptor is keeping
the drip leg warm. It is possible for liquid chlorine that
is trapped in the inside "dip" tube of the container to be
drawn through the adaptor, when a ton container is first
used. Make sure that the regulator is connected to the
TOP valve, and that the two valves are aligned vertically.
Wall Manifolds; Gas vapor can condense and form
droplets of liquid chlorine, particularly when there is a
sudden temperature drop in the flexible connectors.
Make sure that the "drip Leg" heater is connected and
that the drip leg is warm to the touch. Do not allow
cylinders or ton containers to be in an area where they
can become warmer than the flexible connectors or
manifold piping (example: cylinder placed where
sunlight through a window can shine on it but not on the
manifold piping ).
4.7.2 If the chlorinator has been subjected to liquid chlorine,
do the following:
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read "Precautions"
a. Shut off the cylinder valve.
b. Leave the ejector running and pulling vacuum on the
chlorinator for several minutes.
c. Remove the vacuum regulator from the cylinder.
d. Keeping your face away from the regulator, quickly
remove the vacuum tubing from the "vacuum" outlet
on the vacuum regulator, to "break" the vacuum lock
in the regulator.
e. Re-connect the vacuum tube. Observe that the
metering tube ball indicates gas flow (air). The
chlorinator will now draw air into the chlorinator inlet
and through the chlorinator, vaporizing any
remaining liquid. If the metering tube ball drops to
the bottom, it means that the vacuum regulator has
"locked up" due to excessive air flow rate. If this
happens close the rate valve, remove the vacuum
tube from the regulator again and quickly reconnect
it. Open the rate valve until air flows at a steady rate.
Allow the chlorinator to draw air for several minutes.
f. Shut off ejector.
g. Either OUTDOORS or in a WELL-VENTILATED
ROOM, follow instructions for "Disassembly of
Vacuum Regulator Body" (Section 5.6). Clean with
wood alcohol or Apple Cider vinegar and replace any
parts that show signs of chlorine attack.
h. Reassemble and follow START-UP procedure in
Section 2.
11
5.2 Ejector Check Valve - Replacement
5.0 SERVICE/DISASSEMBLY
5.2.1 HIGH PRESSURE CHECK VALVE: After inspecting the
check valve as described in 5.1 above, if wear or
damage is noted, the check valve (CV-150) should be
replaced.
IMPORTANT : Before proceeding, read the "Precautions for
Personal and Chlorinator Protection" on Page 1.
Before attempting to disassemble any of the SUPERIOR Gas
Chlorinator components, refer to Section 4.0 TROUBLE HINTS
to isolate the cause of the problem. Below are listed the
various sections under SERVICE.
a. Grasp the outer edges of the check valve (CV-150)
and apply a steady pulling force until the "umbrella"
tip pops free. Be certain it is completely removed.
Section 5.1 Ejector check valve - cleaning.
b. Examine the check valve seat sealing surface for
deposits and clean with wood alcohol or apple cider
vinegar.
Section 5.2 Ejector check valve - replacement.
Section 5.3 Cleaning/Inspection of ejector nozzle.
c. Check the seat sealing surface with a straight-edge
to be certain that it is completely flat. If the center is
slightly raised, you will see light under the straightedge or it will "rock" over the center. If the seat
sealing surface is not flat, use a very fine sand- paper
or emery cloth on a flat surface (plate glass), and
gently move the check valve seat in a figure 8 pattern
only. Do not rub back and forth or the seat will
become distorted.
Section 5.4 Removing and cleaning chlorine rate adjustment
valve and metering tube.
Section 5.5 Cleaning inlet safety shut-off valve and seat.
Section 5.6 Disassembly of vacuum regulator body.
5.1 Ejector Check Valve - Cleaning
d. Coat the tip of new check valve with a very light film
of DC33 silicone grease. Put the tip of the check
valve in the check valve seat hole and using the
handle of a screwdriver or other rounded object,
push against the center of the check valve until the
tip snaps into seat. (Photo No. 5.2).
5.1.1 Two check valves are installed in the standard ejector
assembly to prevent water from backing into the
chlorine gas system when the ejector is shut off. (Note:
a special "Low Pressure" ejector is sometimes provided
for installations where chlorine solution is being applied
directly into an open tank - This ejector contains only
the Low Pressure check valve. Follow directions that
apply only to low pressure check valves). The check
valves are designed so that it is extremely difficult for
dirt to get under the valves, but dirt can enter from the
chlorine side of the valve, or work its way under the
valve from the water supply if large amounts of sand or
other impurities are present.
DO NOT TWIST CHECK VALVE OR DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.
5.2.2 LOW PRESSURE CHECK VALVE: if water has been
observed coming out of the vacuum tube fitting on the
check valve assembly, it will be necessary to
disassemble the check valve housing, and replace the
check valve seat o'ring, and possibly the check valve
diaphragm if it is damaged.
To remove and clean the valves:
a. Hold the check valve seat/outlet body (CV-110) with
a wrench or place the wrench lugs in a vise. Using
a 1 inch open-end wrench, place the wrench on the
"outside" of the raised wrench lug on top of the
check valve inlet body (CV-111). This is the side into
which the vacuum fitting is screwed. Turn the inlet
body counter-clockwise to unscrew it.
a. Shut off the water supply to the ejector and the water
in the main.
b. Remove vacuum tube.
c. Unscrew the check valve assembly counterclockwise from the ejector body (EJ-110). Wrench
lugs are located on the underside of the check valve
assembly if you cannot unscrew it by hand.
HIGH PRESSURE CHECK VALVE:
b. When disassembling, note the position of the
diaphragm and spring. Usually, the spring will
remain attached to the diaphragm bolt (CV-103).
(Photo No. 5.3)
a. Carefully lift the edge of the check valve (CV-150)
(Photo No. 5.1) and inspect. Clean both the valve
and the seating surfaces with wood alcohol or apple
cider vinegar. Do not use any solvents.
c. Inspect the check valve seat o'ring for dirt or
deposits. The o'ring may be cleaned and re-used,
but it is recommended that the o'ring be replaced
whenever the unit is disassembled. (Photo No. 5.4)
b. When re-installing the check valve assembly, put a
small amount of "Fluorolube" or Dow Corning DC33
silicone grease on the seat o'ring (OR-105) and seat
gasket (GK-120) for lubrication.
d. Inspect the check valve sealing surface on the
diaphragm bolt (CV-103) and clean with wood
alcohol or apple cider vinegar.
e. If the diaphragm (CV-104) has been damaged or has
been severely distorted, it must be replaced. When
re-assembling the diaphragm assembly, be certain
that no dirt or debris is on the sealing surfaces of the
diaphragm, the diaphragm bolt (CV-103) or nut
(CV-105). Be careful when tightening the diaphragm
bolt and nut to avoid tearing the diaphragm.
(Photo No. 5.5)
c. Screw check valve assembly (clockwise) into ejector
body. USE NO TOOLS, HAND TIGHTEN ONLY.
d. Pressurize the ejector and cycle several times before
reconnecting the vacuum tubing to insure that the
check valve is sealing properly.
LOW PRESSURE CHECK VALVE:
a. The low pressure check valve is housed inside the
check valve assembly. Any cleaning or service
requires disassembling the entire check valve
assembly. Unless a leak is observed, or you wish to
replace the low pressure check valve seat as
preventive maintenance, it is recommended that you
do not disassemble the unit. If disassembly is
required, follow instructions under "Replacement",
below, and always replace the low pressure check
valve seat o'ring (OR-114).
12
f. Re-assemble by placing the spring and diaphragm
assembly into the recessed hole in the outlet body
(CV-110). Make sure that the diaphragm assembly
is centered and carefully place the inlet body
(CV-111) over the threads of the outlet body. Hand
tighten until resistance is felt. Using a wrench or vise
to hold the outlet body, and a 1" open-end wrench
on the inlet body (see 5.2.2.a), tighten down the inlet
body until snug. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN.
c. Screw the nozzle into the diffuser, BY HAND ONLY,
until contact is made against both gaskets.
d. Turn the ejector body and the nozzle, at the same
time, ¼ turn clockwise to the final tight position. (See
Installation Section, Photo No. 1.3).
e. Re-install the ejector supply hose and chlorine
vacuum tubing.
5.2.3 Examine seat o'ring (OR-105) and seat gasket
(GK-120)for wear or damage and replace if necessary.
5.3.7 Open all valves and check for proper vacuum.
(See Section 2.1).
5.2.4 When reinstalling the check valve assembly, put a small
amount of DC33 silicone grease on the seat o'ring (OR105) and seat gasket (GK-120) for lubrication. It is
recommended that Teflon pipe sealing tape be applied
to the threads of the check valve assembly.
5.4 Cleaning Chlorine Rate Adjustment Valve and Metering
Tube.
5.4.1 Unscrew the rate valve plug assembly (RV-140) from the
top of Remote Meter Assembly, (Photo No. 5.7) and pull
the plug assembly with steady pressure until it "pops"
out of the rate valve seat. (Photo No. 5.8).
5.2.5 Screw check valve seat (clockwise) into ejector body.
USE NO TOOLS. HAND TIGHTEN ONLY.
5.4.2 Insert a nail or thin screwdriver through two of the four
holes in the top of the rate valve seat. While holding the
chlorine flow metering tube with one hand, turn the seat
counter-clockwise. The metering tube will loosen and
may be removed, (Photo No. 5.6).
5.3 Cleaning/Inspection of Ejector Nozzle
5.3.1 To remove the ejector nozzle for cleaning, the water
pressure in the main must first be shut off unless the
ejector was initially installed with a valve on the inlet side
and a ball valve or corporation stop in the outlet so that
isolation of the ejector is possible.
5.4.3 Continue unscrewing the rate valve seat until it is free of
its threads. Grasp the rate valve seat and pull up until
it pops out.
5.3.2 Remove the ejector supply hose and chlorine vacuum
tubing from the ejector assembly.
5.4.4 To clean the rate valve plug (RV-140):
5.3.3 Rotate the complete ejector body counterclockwise,
making certain that the solution outlet remains fixed
(use wrench if necessary). This loosens the threaded
portion of the nozzle from the solution diffuser and
simplifies removal.
a. Clean the silver tip and shaft using a cloth dipped in
lacquer thinner or acetone. CAUTION: Do not use
any lacquer thinner or acetone on o'rings. This can
cause the material to soften or become damaged.
b. Use a mild solvent, such as alcohol to clean o'rings.
Examine the o'rings (OR-102) and make sure they
are free of bruises or scratches.
Replace if
necessary. Use a light film of DC33 silicone grease
on the o'rings and threads.
5.3.4 Unscrew the nozzle (EJ-130). The ejector body, the
nozzle and the diffuser (EJ-150) are now separated.
(Photo No. 5.6).
5.3.5 Nozzle plugging can be caused by:
5.4.5 To clean the rate valve seat (RV-130):
a. Piece of foreign material (pipe sealer, stone or dirt
accumulation). This can be readily blown out or
pushed out very carefully, with a wire in the reverse
direction. Do not use sharp tools or alter the size of
the orifice in any way.
a. Use a cotton swab (Q-Tip) with a small amount of
wood alcohol and clean out the inside of the rate
valve seat.
b. If dirt or deposits have formed in the metering orifice
of the rate valve seat, a pipe cleaner dipped in
alcohol can be carefully inserted through the orifice
and gently moved back and forth. (Photo No. 5.9).
b. Excess plastic pipe solvent used during initial
installation of inlet piping. If such solvent has
chemically bonded to the nozzle orifice, the nozzle
must be replaced.
c. Clean the metering tube gasket surface with the
cotton swab.
c. Build-up of deposit. This could be a chemical buildup of iron, manganese or other material which
usually can be removed by immersing the nozzle in
muriatic acid and rinsing. CAUTION: Read all
warning labels on Muriatic Acid bottle and avoid skin
contact. It is recommended that safety goggles or
face shield be used when working with any strong
acid. Some waters are such that this build-up can
cause an ejector to become inoperative every two
months. If build-up is excessive and requires
constant cleaning, you may consider the possibility
of adding "sequestering" chemicals (such as
hexametaphosphat e) into the ejector water supply
line. Consult local regulatory agencies before adding
any chemicals to a potable water system.
d. Inspect and clean the rate valve seat o'rings
(OR-103) with alcohol. Replace if damaged or worn.
5.4.6 To clean the metering tube assembly:
a. Use tweezers or needle nosed pliers and pull out the
float stops on each end of the glass tube. MAKE
SURE THE METERING BALL IS NOT LOST.
b. Clean the inside of the glass tube with a pipe cleaner
using wood alcohol and rinse thoroughly with warm
water. Clean the metering ball float.
5.3.6 To re-install the nozzle:
a. Insert the nozzle through the ejector body and fasten
to the solution diffuser outlet (EJ-150) using new
gaskets (GK-125) on each side of ejector body.
b. Hold the ejector body (EJ-110) against the diffuser at
¼ turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE from its final
position; up, down, sideways, etc. (see installation
Section, Photo No. 1.3).
13
c. Dry out the glass meter with an air hose. (NOTE:
Never use compressed air when the metering ball
float is in the tube). If none is available, a hot water
rinse will dry out by itself in a few minutes.
of crystalline organic material or a hard varnish like
material will form along the valve stem below the valve
seating surface. Wipe the surfaces clean with a clean
cloth and inspect the tapered valve sealing surface, and
the rounded vent plug sealing surfaces. These surfaces
must be completely free of dirt, nicks and scratches.
d. Re-install ball float and float stops.
5.4.7 Place Teflon pipe tape on threads of the rate valve seat
(RV-130)and apply a thin film of DC33 silicone grease to
the o'rings. Snap valve seat in place until the threads
can engage. Turn the rate valve seat clockwise 1-1/2
turns.
5.5.8 Clean the inlet adaptor (YK-150) before proceeding with
assembly. A small tube or bottle brush (or cotton swab)
with lacquer thinner or acetone works well here.
Remove and inspect the adapter face seal o'ring (OR103) before applying any cleaning solvent to the
adaptor. Replace the o'ring if scratched or damaged.
5.4.8 Replace the chlorine metering tube:
5.5.9 The adaptor face seal o'ring (OR-103) and all other parts
may be cleaned with a clean cloth dipped in wood
alcohol.
a. The metering tube gaskets can usually be re-used. If
damaged, replace them. Place one gasket on the
bottom of the rate valve seat and one gasket in the
recess of the chlorinator body at the bottom of the
metering tube area. (NOTE: some sizes of metering
tubes use larger "Lip" type gaskets on the top than
on the bottom).
5.5.10 The inlet filter disk (YK-165) may be removed for
inspection of dirt build-up and for cleaning by pushing
a pencil eraser tip through the inlet adaptor (YK-150),
(See Photo No. 5.14). Dirt and deposits can usually be
removed by immersing the filter in muriatic acid.
CAUTION: Read all warning labels on muriatic acid
container. Use only in a well ventilated area. Avoid skin
contact. Do not breath vapors. Safety goggles or face
shield should be worn. Dry filter thoroughly with air hose
or dryer. If local, state, or federal regulations prohibit
storage or use of Muriatic acid at your site, try using
some apple cider vinegar. If this does not get the filter
clean, then replace the filter.
b. Center the top of the metering tube under the rate
valve seat and center the bottom over the hole in the
lower gasket.
c. Using the rate valve removal tool (nail) or pliers
tighten (clockwise) the rate valve seat while holding
the metering tube in place with numbers of proper
scale facing front. Be sure the tube is centered over
the gasket holes.
5.5.11 TO REASSEMBLE proceed as follows:
d. When the metering tube no longer can be rotated
easily, tighten the rate valve seat another ¼ to ½
turn. Do not over tighten so as to squash the gaskets
since this can cause a vacuum leak.
a. Replace the filter in the adaptor inlet using finger
pressure.
b. Replace the inlet valve seat (IV-110) and valve seat
o'ring (OR-104) if they were removed from the
adaptor plug. A very light film of DC33 silicone
grease should be put on the o'ring and the seat
slowly "pumped" into the adaptor plug.
5.4.9 Replace the Rate Valve Plug assembly (RV-140) by
placing it into the top of the rate valve seat and gently
pushing down until the O-ring pops into the seat and the
threads can engage. Tighten down the rate valve a few
turns.
c. Insert the inlet valve plug (IV-130) through the valve
seat.
5.5 Cleaning Inlet Safety Shut Off Valve and Seat
5.5.1 Remove the two screws holding the yoke body bar
(YK-100) to the vacuum regulator body.
d. Place the inlet adaptor plug with the inlet valve plug
facing down on a smooth clean surface and
proceed.
5.5.2 Pull the entire yoke assembly from the vacuum regulator
body. A clockwise rotation helps if the o'ring seal is tight.
It should slip out relatively easily.
(Photo No. 5.10)
e. Insert the inlet spring guide/vent plug onto the inlet
spring and snap into place. Insert the inlet spring
with guide/vent plug attached, into the inlet adaptor
plug recess.
5.5.3 To disassemble the inlet capsule, turn the inlet adaptor
plug (IV-120) counter-clockwise. If the plug is tight, use
a narrow pliers but be careful not to damage the
adaptor o'ring (OR-106). The end of the valve plug
(IV-130) is now exposed (Photo No. 5.11).
f. Compress the spring guide/vent plug and screw it on
to the inlet valve plug a few turns by hand.
g. Place a screwdriver in the inlet valve plug slot, hold
the spring guide/vent plug with the other hand and
screw down the spring guide/vent plug until the
spring guide bottoms on the shoulder of the inlet
valve plug. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN (Photo No.
5.15). The spring should compress until
approximately 1/32" (1mm) of clearance is observed
between the top of the adaptor plug and the bottom
of the spring guide/vent plug. (NOTE: A screwdriver
tip that fits the inlet valve plug slot is a good
measuring tool).
5.5.4 Insert a screw driver into the slot in the end of the inlet
valve plug (IV-130) and unscrew the inlet vent plug/
spring guide (IV-145). This can often be unscrewed by
hand. (Photo No. 5.12). If pliers are necessary make
sure the rounded seat surface is not scratched. (NOTE:
This assembly is in tension with the inlet spring(IV-160)
so be careful not to lose the vent plug/spring guide).
5.5.5 Remove the inlet valve plug (IV-130) and inlet spring
(IV-160).
5.5.6 Inspect the sealing surface of the inlet valve seat
(IV-110). This surface must be completely free of dirt,
nicks, or scratches. A magnifying glass gives a good
indication of the quality of the seat. Use a cotton swab
dipped in lacquer thinner, acetone or alcohol to carefully
clean the seat. DO NOT attempt to clean the seat with
a sharp tool. Replace the valve seat if it is not in perfect
condition. (Normally it will not be necessary to remove
the valve seat from the inlet adaptor plug (IV-120) unless
it needs to be replaced). To remove, use one of the
chlorinator body screws inserted through the inlet spring
side of the adaptor plug. Place the head of the screw
against a hard surface and push firmly on the adaptor
until the valve seat pops free. (Photo No. 5.13).
5.5.7 Immerse the inlet valve plug (IV-130) and vent plug
(IV-150) in lacquer thinner or acetone. Usually a deposit
14
5.18
5.19
5.20
5.21
15
h. Check alignment of valve stem assembly. It should
appear straight when viewed from any direction.
NOTE: Excessive use of lubricants can cause additional
service problems.
j. Screw the inlet adaptor plug assembly into the yoke
assembly, clockwise. Use pliers and tighten until you
are certain the plug is bottomed. The plastic used in
this plug is very strong, just be careful that you do
not damage the inside of the adaptor plug OD
sealing o'ring groove. (Photo No. 5.16).
5.6.8 Reassemble the unit using the reverse procedure and
check the following:
a. Be certain that the main diaphragm seal o'ring
(OR-108) is properly seated.
b. Be certain that the diaphragm assembly moves freely
in the front body. Press it forward several times to be
certain it returns to "neutral position". (Photo No.
5.20).
i. Place the adaptor face seal O-ring (OR-103) into the
groove in the inlet adaptor.
5.5.12 Put a light film of DC33 silicone grease on the adaptor
plug OD sealing O-ring (OR-106). Also put a light film of
lubricant on the back body inlet seal (OR-113).
c. Place the back body (VR-110) on a table with the
diaphragm body seal o'ring (OR-108) in place and
lower the front body (VR-120) * onto it.
5.5.13 Insert the entire yoke assembly into the chlorinator
body using a slight CLOCKWISE ROTATION. DO NOT
turn the yoke assembly counter-clockwise as a
precaution against unscrewing the inlet safety
capsule.
e. Grasp the entire unit and turn it over so the back
body is on top and re-assemble the four 1-1/2"
(38mm) long screws. These screws should be run in
until they just begin to tighten.
5.6.9 Replace the yoke assembly using procedure described
in Section 5.5.13, turning it slightly CLOCKWISE as it is
inserted.
5.6 Disassembly of Vacuum Regulator Body
Normally it is not necessary to completely disassemble the
unit unless a thorough cleaning is necessary or parts need
replacing.
5.6.10 Tighten all bolts in a criss-cross pattern until they are all
snug. Do not over tighten. Sealing is accomplished by the
large o'ring between the bodies (OR-108). THERE SHOULD
BE A GAP OF APPROXIMATELY 1/16" (1.6mm) BETWEEN
THE TWO BODY HALVES. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLOSE
THIS GAP BY TIGHTENING THE BODY SCREWS. (Photo
No. 5.21).
5.6.1 Remove the yoke assembly as described in Section
5.5.1 and 5.5.2.
5.6.2 If Necessary, remove the two small screws which hold
the faceplate onto the front body. Carefully remove the
faceplate.
5.63 Remove the four screws which hold the body assembly
together and separate the body halves. (Photo No.
5.17).
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT USE ANY LUBRICANT (DC 33 GREASE)
ON THE FOLLOWING O-RINGS
OR107
OR-108
OR-109
OR-110
5.6.4 Grasp the diaphragm back plate (VR-141) * and pull the
entire diaphragm assembly out of the front body.
(NOTE: VR-140 and VR-160 are assembled as VR-141).
If the white indicator pin is sticking in the front body,
carefully use a nail to push the pin through from the
front of the vacuum regulator.
(Photo No. 5.18).
5.6.5 Examine the diaphragm. It is normal for some wrinkles
to be present. The diaphragms are made of special,
very tough, chlorine resistant material and failure is
extremely unlikely.
Should it be necessary to disassemble the diaphragm
proceed as follows:
a. Grasp both the front and back diaphragm plates and
unscrew them. (Photo No. 5.19). If the plates cannot
be unscrewed by hand you may use a vise to clamp
one of the plates and use a strap wrench or marine
deck plate spanner wrench to unscrew the other.
b. The diaphragm can now be removed. Note the
position of the "convolution" on the diaphragm. The
raised portion should always face the back of the
chlorinator when installed.
Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc.
5.6.6 Clean the parts thoroughly using wood alcohol or Apple
Cider vinegar.
4796 S. US 1, Ft. Pierce, FL, 34982, USA
(772) 461-0666
Fax: (772) 460-1847
E-Mail: chlorine@gate.net
www.chlorinators.com
5.6.7 Carefully inspect all o'rings for damage or wear and
replace if necessary.
16