Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
POZNAŃ
March - June 2009
On the Verge of
Greatness
Lech Poznań gun for
glory
N°22 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)
poznan.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1642-2902
On the Cheap
a cheapskate’s guide
to Poz
CONTENTS
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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
3
Full contents of all our Poland
guides are now online:
www.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Arriving in Poznań
12
The Basics
13
Surviving Poz
Culture & Events
18
This seasons highlights
Where to stay
24
Accommodation for all pockets
Restaurants
34
The highs and lows
Cafes
49
Nightlife
51
Hedonists handbook
For the past few years the trophy cabinet at Lech Poznan
has boasted more cobwebs than cups, but that stands
to change this season with the local side standing on the
verge of greatness. See for yourself on page 6.
Sightseeing
What to see
The city inside out
61
Kórnik
70
The Piast Route
72
Castles of Wielkopolska
73
Gniezno
74
Getting around
80
Planes, trains & automobiles
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Mail & Phones
86
Shopping
87
Directory
89
Maps & Index
With the credit crunch crunching you won’t be the first
person be caught looking behind the fridge for some spare
coins. Thankfully you’re in Poznan, a city where good times
and vices are permanently set on cost-cutter level. We sift
through the bargain basement to find the best of budget
Poz on page 32.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
City centre map
City map
Country map
Street index
Listings index
Feature index
91
92
94
96
97
98
March - June 2009
4
FOREWORD
Timing is everything in Poznan. Get it wrong
and it’s not unlike walking onto a cowboy film,
nothing in the ghost town but the distant clatter
of a saloon door. This is never truer than in
March, a time when the city sleeps, the vapid
greyness sliced by shadow and snow. Sat
suspended between seasons Poznan has the
torpid gait of a stunned turtle, and it’s every
bit as sociable. But this guide covers a four
month span, and somewhere during that life
expectancy Poznan slips its guard and makes
a bolt for the good times. True, it’s not exactly
Bourbon Street circa Mardi Gras, but neither is
it the serious, suited city it is for much of the
rest of the year. Who knows, maybe it’s because
so much of the time is spent living under cloud,
but you’ll find a little wink from Mr Sun is all
the encouragement the natives need before
unpacking the patio furniture and turning the
city into one massive beer garden. Naturally,
the old town forms the focal point, and there’s
no better place to seek liquid solace than in the
shadow of the town hall tower. But do explore;
spidering off in different directions the cobbled
streets house diversions as numerous as they
are obscure – sitting between wedding cake
churches and slanting burgher houses the
investigative traveller can discover everything
from Egyptian mummies to wailing ghosts. And
once you’ve crossed the old town off your list
then head further afield to revel in the glories of
Kornik Castle, clamber around meteor craters,
celebrate the memories of the airmen shot
during The Great Escape or make contact with
the many aliens supposedly spotted flying
overhead.
As always we welcome all comments and feedback,
so long as they’re addressed to
editor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Poz.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Company office & Accounts
Basia Olszewska
WIYP Sp. z o.o.
ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot
058 555 08 31
poznan@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
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Published 15,000 copies,
3 times per year
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
Rynek Główny 6, Szara Kamienica
31-042 Kraków, tel./fax 012 421 24 48
agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl
Poznań In Your Pocket
Europe In Your Pocket
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the firstwresidence
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bie
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Ul. Wyspiañskiego 26
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Editorial
Copyright notice
Editor Alex Webber
Assistant Editor: Karolina Montygierd-Łojbo
Research Łukasz Jankowski, Artus Zalewski
Events Klaudia Mampe
Design Tomáš Haman
Photography A. Webber, Lena Wachacka
Cover Maciej Pietrzak - maciej@cgs.pl
Text and photos copyright WIYP
1999/2008. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
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copyright owner. The brand name In Your
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Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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Assistant: Bartosz Matyjas 058 555 98 18
Kraków/Katowice/Zakopane
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Warszawa/Łódź
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Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
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poznan.inyourpocket.com
60-751 Poznañ
Tel.: 0048 61 22 18 400
Fax.: 0048 61 22 18 402
notuspoznan@fortenhotels.pl
www.fortenhotels.pl
6
LECH POZNAŃ
Like all sensible nations Poland is a football country, and
the fans don’t get anymore passionate than the ones
down at local side Lech Poznan. Their trophy cabinet
might have more cobwebs than it does cups but that
doesn’t stop the fans from flocking through the turnstiles.
While Legia Warszawa and Wisla Krakow bicker over
which one is the biggest side in the country, it’s actually
little Lech who can claim to be the best supported.
They’ve 19,000 fans on average, a figure which easily
surpasses those of Poland’s more famous clubs. And,
rather incomprehensibly, that figure could rise even
further – Lech Poznan stand on the verge of greatness,
with both the domestic league and the UEFA Cup within
their grasp. That was the case as we prepared to go to
print, anyhow, whether or not it’ll be a case of smiles in
the summer remains to be seen.
The History
Playing in their trademark blue and white colours Lech
kicked their first ball in 1922, and throughout the years
have been closely a f filiated with the state railway
company – hence their nickname, The Railwaymen.
Glory days have been few and far between, the clubs
heyday lasting from 1983 to 1993. It was during this
time the club scored five league titles, including their
last to date in 1993 – albeit on a technicality after the
two teams who finished above them were punished for
match rigging. Fans still reminisce about those heady
days in the pubs of Poznan, with a particularly favourite
story being their epic clash against Barcelona in the
1989 Cup Winners’ Cup. Poznan lost, on penalties,
but memories linger and the mere mention of this
legendary dual is a surefire way of placating any scary
thugs you might come across. Since then silverware has
largely eluded Lech, though the Polish Cup was added
to the boardroom in 2004, but recent signs suggest a
renaissance is firmly underway.
This Season
A very merry Christmas it proved for fans of Lech Poznan.
As the league closed for its annual mid-winter break
Lech stood top of the pile, leading second placed Legia
Warszawa on goal difference. In what has emerged as
the tightest title race for years just six points separates
the top six teams, with highlights for Lech including a
memorable 4-1 massacre of defending champions Wisla
Krakow. Particularly gratifying have been the performances
of Robert Lewandowski. The wunderkind has proved the
capture of the season, leading the clubs goal scoring
charts with eight goals since his summer switch from
Znicz Pruszkow. Lewandowski’s red hot form hasn’t been
overlooked by national coach Leo Beenhakker, and the 20
year old hitman found his performances rewarded with an
international call-up against San Marino. While Poland’s
game was awful, Lewandowski’s wasn’t, and he crowned
his debut with a goal, alerting scouts from Europe’s top
clubs in the process – Lech fought hard over Christmas to
keep Lewandowski, though a summer move to Serie A now
looks increasingly likely. Not that Lech are a one man team;
Bosnian Semir Stilic has been a mainstay of midfield since
his arrival last year, while Peruvian international Hernan
Rengifo has proved a menace in the box with six goals
so far. Indeed, coach Franciszek Smuda has moulded a
young, fluid unit, capable of breathtaking football played
with cavalier abandon. Admirers are plentiful, and if the
Polish tabloids are to be believed, include Celtic, who have
apparently looked into the possibility of making a swoop for
Smuda when Gordon Strachan bows out in June. Far fetched
Poznań In Your Pocket
that might sound, but it goes a long way to illustrating just
how far Lech have risen in such a short space of time. And
while Poland’s higher profile clubs left the European stage
with a whimper it’s been left to Lech to fly the standard
on foreign fields.
Lech’s hopes of silverware aren’t limited to domestic cups
alone, at press time they were Poland’s sole remaining
representative in European competition. A thrilling last
gasp victory over Austria Vienna was enough to see them
qualify for the group stages of the UEFA Cup, and they
managed to scrape out of that following a dramatic win
against Dutch giants Feyenoord. Drawn to face Udinese
in the last 16 Lech did their best to shoot themselves
in the foot, surrendering a two goal lead to the visitors.
Urged on by a partisan crowd Lech fought back gallantly,
scoring twice with ten minutes left on the clock. By the
time this guide hits the newsstands the result of the return
leg will be history, though one thing’s for sure, count Lech
out at your peril.
But with good news comes bad, and it doesn’t get any
worse than the revelations that cult hero Piotr Reiss has
been charged in part of the nationwide inquiry into match
fixing and corruption. Prior to his arrest Reiss, capped four
times by the national side, had enjoyed legendary status at
Lech, having hit 109 goals in over 300 appearances for the
club. The charges are thought to relate to Lech Poznan’s
2-0 win over Gornik Polkowice back in 2004, and have left
Lech fans reeling.
Armed for the Match
Make it your mission to catch these lads in action. The ground
might have three sides but the atmosphere is cracking,
with Lech’s fans rated as the noisiest in the country. Stand
warned, however, while Poland claims to be winning the
battle against the thugs you may want to avoid a chance
encounter with Lech’s more lively element by heading
into the pricey seats. The stadium dates from 1980, and
following improvements in 2002 is now one of the most
modern in Poland. And it’s due to get even better; picked
as a host ground for Euro 2012 further work is currently
being conducted to raise capacity from 25,000 to 45,000.
Remaining home games are as follows, with tickets (35-50zl)
available in advance from locations across town, as well as
from the box office on ul. Bulgarska 5/7.
March 8 17:00 v Jagiellonia Białystok
March 21 16:00 v Arka Gdynia
April 4 18:00 v Wisła Kraków
April 18 16:00 v ŁKS Łódź
May 2 18:00 v Ruch Chorzów
May 16 v Lechia Gdańsk
May 30 v Cracovia Kraków
poznan.inyourpocket.com
TRADE FAIRS
After Poland re-emerged on the map of Europe in 1918
with the advent of the second Polish Republic, the
Poznań fair was instrumental in helping to re-integrate
economic activities. It contributed to the task of creating
a new Polish market and in demonstrating to the outside
world Poland’s readiness for economic and commercial
cooperation. It also helped with the complex task of
unifying the three areas of Poland separated during the
partitions and in which different fiscal, monetary and legal
systems operated.
In 1928, the city of Poznań and the Poznań International Fair
held the Universal National Exhibition, which showed the world
the achievements of the first decade of the new Polish state.
Over 4.5 million people visited the fair, including delegations
from many foreign countries. The Poznań International Fair
was one of the few fairs that managed to survive the great
economic crisis of 1929-1932 and by the outbreak of WWII
it was considered one of Europe’s leading fairs.
However, the war had a catastrophic ef fect on the
International Fair complex. The Germans used the buildings
for storage and to manufacture airplane parts. On Easter
Sunday 1943, a day when no Poles were at the Fair, the
British Royal Air Force bombed pavilions 5 and 8 as Stanisław
Laskowski, the Fair’s president, looked on. Pavilion 5 was
rebuilt in the 1970s with funds from the British Department
of Trade and Industry.
In 1946 rebuilding started on the same land and the first
post-war fair was held under the title Fashion and Home
(Odzież i dom). The Poznań International Fair started anew
in 1947 but was once again forced to close - this time, in the
years 1951-54, because of the atmosphere created by the
Cold War. It was only in 1955, with the multi-product Poznań
International Fair exhibit, that the Fair started cooperating
with foreign countries again.
Trade fairs
Poznań International Fairs (Międzynarodowe
Targi Poznańskie) E-4, ul. Głogowska 14, tel. 061
869 20 00, fax 061 866 58 27, info@mtp.pl, www.
mtp.pl.
World Trade Center Poznań E-3, ul. Bukowska 12,
tel. 061 866 10 50, wtc-poznan@wtc-poznan.com.
pl, www.wtc-Poznań.com.pl. The WTC fosters world
trade and promotes international business relationships.
WTC runs a visitor information desk during every fair,
where foreigners can get free fair passes and information
on the relevant industrial sector in English, Russian and
German. It also has a business centre and a bar.QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
Poznań In Your Pocket
March
03-05 Body Style: Exhibition of Lingerie and Beach
Fashion
03-05 Next Season: Contracting Exhibition
03-05 Special Days: Exhibition of Wedding and Evening
Fashion
09-11 Shoes, Leather and Leather Goods
13-15 Education Fair
13-15 Fair Meetings Books
13-15 School Equipment Exhibition
20-21 Poznań Optical Salon
31/03-03/04 Drema
31/03-03/04 Furnica
April
21-24 Euro - Reklama GIFT EXPO
21-24 Euro - Reklama OUTDOOR EXPO
21-24 Poligrafia
21-24 TeksPro
24-28 Bakepol
25-26 beautyVision
25-26 Look: Hairdressing and Cosmetics Forum
May
07-10 Poznań Automotive Meetings
07-10 TTM: Automotive Technology Fair
08-10 Fitness & Sport Park
09-10 ESWC: Electronic Sports World Cup
19-21 AUTOMA: Robotics International Fair
19-21 Expopower: Power Industry Fair
19-21 greenPOWER: The International Fair for Renewable Energy
. 2009
.10
and
Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be traced back as
far as 1254 when King Przemysław I granted special
privileges to traders. Over the following centuries Poznań
developed this trading tradition to the point where, in
1917, local merchants decided to develop a specialised
fair institution. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921,
when the first Poznań fair took place. Since then, the Fair’s
fortunes have risen and fallen according to the political
and economic changes that periodically moved through
Poland and Europe.
Trade fair schedule
Poz
ol
Most foreign visitors to Central Europe are unfamilar with
Poznań. However, those that do business in this part of the world
know the city well. If you’re here on business you are probably
already aware that Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital. It is
estimated that over 60 percent of all trade fairs held in Poland
are held in Poznań at the International Fair Centre.
21-2
4
8
nań, P
June
03-06 arena DESIGN: Design meets International
Business
03-06 Biuro: Fair of Office Furniture and Furnishing
03-06 Budma Interior
03-06 Furniture Trade Fair
03-06 Home Décor: Interior Design and Home Furnishings Show
03-06 LUMINEXPO: Exhibition of Lighting and Light
Technology
16-19 Hape: Exhibition of Hydraulics, Pneumatics and
Drives
16-19 ITM – Poland: Innovations-TechnologiesMachines
16-19 Mach – Tool: Machine Tools Exhibition
16-19 Metalforum
16-19 Science for the Economy
16-19 Surfex: Exhibition of Surface Treatment Technologies
16-19 Transporta: Exhibition of Logistics, Transport
and Shipping
16-19 Welding: Salon Welding
16-19 Work Safety in Industry Exhibition
Need a taxi?
Check our list
of trustworthy firms
on page 82
poznan.inyourpocket.com
MiÚdzynarodowe Targi Poznañskie sp. z o.o.
Poznañ International Fair Ltd.
ul. Gïogowska 14, 60-734 Poznañ, Poland
tel. +48 61 / 869 20 00, fax +48 61 / 869 29 69
e-mail: toursalon@mtp.pl
10
QUICK PICKS
QUICK PICKS
Poznań condensed
Eat
Drink
Sleep
See
Do
Local
The seminal Polski experience is offered at W-Z
(p 48), a huge wood-fitted venue where guests inflate
themselves on obscene portions of local classics.
At the other end of the price scale go upmarket
and visit Nalewka (p 36) for a piece of traditional
Poland at its peak.
Relive the days of the People’s Republic of Poland by
taking in a visit to Proletaryat (p 56) a commie themed
pub littered with detritus recovered from dark days:
Soviet issue army caps, pennants and paintings of
Marx. For something classy and capitalist sample the
local ales at the Brovaria microbrewery (p 52), or slum
it with local students and thesps at the unforgettable
Dragon (p 53). Also, how about drinking with the local
lads at the blokey Deserovnia (p 53).
Local
I f you’ve had one too many of
the brews at the aforementioned
Brovaria (p 24) then no problem,
bed down in their hotel upstairs.
It’s a lovely, upmarket effort, with
views staring onto the Rynek. For
something more traditional then
it’s got to be Młyńskie Koło (p 29), a
charismatic lodge fit for a squire.
The old town should top any itinerary, and a trip to its centerpiece,
the town hall, is an absolute must.
Check out the Historical Museum (p
64) for the full story of Poznań – from
start to finish.
Once you’ve seen the inside
of the town hall, then take
your time to circle it. Do so
at noon and you’ll have the
pleasure of noting a couple
of mechanical goats (p 68)
popping out of the tower on
the stroke of noon, a tradition
that dates back to 1551.
Cheap
This is a town of students, so finding places selling
food for buttons isn’t a problem. The problem lies in
the students; they’re not exactly known for their culinary tastes, and as such the budget options reflect
this. Spagetheria (p 34) isn’t a bad choice, and you
can rely on Sphinx (p 34) to hit your calorie quota in
one go. While it’s not exactly a giveaway, Chłopskie
Jadło (p 46) offer great return on your money with
giant portions of local peasant grub.
There’s nowhere in Poznań that will really break the
bank so drinkers can look forward to some rollicking
nights out. Committed cheapskates should head to
the student ghetto along ul. Taczaka where pubs like
Academic (p 51) and Corner Pub (p 52) sell alcoholic
liquids at cut price. If straying out of old town isn’t your
scene then stand shoulder-to-shoulder with pissed
brainboxes in Déjà Vu (p 52).
Cheap
Hostelling has yet to take off in
Poznań and choices are practically
non-existent. So it’s a bit of a result
that the Frolic Goats (p 31), not only
has a fab name, but also very decent
accommodation. Also, how about the
new Cinnamon Hostel (p 31), great
value guaranteed. Going up a level
the insolvent should consider a stay
in the Mini Hotelik (p 30).
Aspiring scrooges should check
out our What to See section (p 61),
paying particular attention to admission prices. Nearly all museums and
galleries will open their doors free
to the public once a week. If broken
pots and old spears don’t do it for you
then why not just walk around – the
old town won’t disappoint.
Pick up a Poznań City Card
(see p 81). It’ll win you free
admission to scores of museums, as well as unlimited
travel on trams and buses.
Lads
You’ll need a slab of red meat in you before hitting the
pubs, so why not get a steak down you in Rodeo Drive
(p 34). Give some consideration to Someplace Else
(p 35), a lively venue with decent pub grub served to
the sound of live bands. Best of all, they’ve got Sky
Sports, so there’s no chance of missing the game
while you wait for some pillock to finish off his food.
Finally, just opened, eat burgers served by Barbie
gals - that’s Rooster on p. 34.
Dom Vikingków (p 58) is a popular destination for
lads, especially the sports bar out in the back, and
afterwards give your chat-up lines an airing in a club
like Cute (p 59). If you need a taste of home then
Brogan’s is the best Irish pub in the country. Well,
Poznań anyway. See page 52.
Lads
If you’re traveling in a pack then
you’ll need to be checking into a
hotel that can cope with numbers. If
cash is no object then it’s got to be
the Sheraton (p 26). Failing that go
for another one of the biggies like
Novotel Centrum (p 26), Ibis (p 28) or
the System (p 28), all of which have
plenty of beds to go round.
Brit lads should make a pilgrimage
up to the Commonwealth Cemetery
(p 68), where the bodies of those
who took part in The Great Escape
are buried.
Hold a piss-up in a brewery.
The Lech Brewer y (p 68)
organize tours and testing at
their plant on the outskirts
of town.
Couples
Dine at Alexander (p 38) inside a restaurant that
bursts with cherubs and plant life. Alternatively hit
Delicja (p 35) for something equally romantic, if little
less OTT. Finally, let your hands roam freely by dining
in the pitch black Dark Restaurant (p 39). For more
schmoozy dining give Mollini a whirl (p 43).
Fuego (p 54) is so overwhelmingly cheesy it’s worth
a trip just for a cheap laugh. Or how about Czerwony
Fortepian (p 52), a posh jazz venue with frequently
outstanding music. If something more lively is in
order then rub shoulders with the local gliterrati then
put the dancing daps on and take a trip to Buddha
Bar (p 37).
Couples
The Domina Poznań Residence
(p 24) is brilliant, with some excellent
views and the sort of interiors you’d
choose for your home if you had the
cash. But to go really Cupid then
head out of town and book lodgings
at one of the manor houses found in
the sticks. We can recommend Pałac
Wąsowo (p 32) for saucy breaks.
Be syrup sweet and head to the
zoo to giggle at penguins and other
creatures who would probably bite
you given half the chance. There’s
two to choose from in Poznań (p 68).
Once that’s chalked off head to the
Parish Church of St Stanislaus (p 63).
Beautifully pink and festooned with
Baroque extravagances this is just
the place in which to start dropping
hints about settling down.
Head to ul. Żydowska and
one of the many cafes found
on it. If the weather is behaving then the courtyard
gardens here are unbeatable for a moonlit vino. In
particular, check out Bordo
or Lawka (p 48) or, closer to
the square, Cocorico (p 49)
on ul. Świętosławska.
Splurge
Le Palais du Jardin (p 36) is pretty much the pinnacle
of local dining, and Figaro is also worth the trip (p
36). Bazanciarnia (p 35) also never gets anything
less than top marks. For something less stuffy and
a little more inventive head to Fusion in the Sheraton
(p 37) to see there’s more to dining in Poznań than
ordering game.
Nowhere is going to have your bank manager hunting
you down with a shotgun, though Habana (p 39) has
some seriously pricey booze on offer in equally upmarket surrounds. This is by far the classiest drinking
option in town, and just the place where you should
leave the keys to your Hummer on view. For clubbing
SQ (p. 60) is considered the classiest danceteria in
town, with a door policy to reflect this.
Splurge
Domina Poznań Residence (p 24),
Sheraton (p 26) and the Andersia
(p 25) are excellent choices, with
little to separate them, though for
something really flash check into
the newest top-band hotel in the
city - The Notus (p 25) is simply
knockout.
See how the local bigshots live it up
by booking a table at the Sheraton’s
Sunday Brunch (p 43). An outlay of
130zł wins you unlimited booze and
food from 12:30 to 17:00.
Bring the plastic and hit
the shops. You’ll find ul. Paderewskiego lined with designer boutiques, including
Zegna, Escada, Max Mara
and Burberry.
Abstract
There’s nothing more nutty than eating in pitch
darkness, and that’s exactly the concept at Dark
Restaurant (p 39), an upmarket venue cloaked in
permanent blackness. Also give Cymes a whirl (p
45), a quaint Jewish effort replete with antiques
and heirlooms.
There’s a wealth of choices here, but none hold a
candle to Kieslice (p 64), a bonkers bar where anything goes. No trip to Poznań is complete without a
look inside the self-styled K-Hole. You’ll meet a similar
crowd of students, thesps, expats, hacks, losers and
trendies in Dragon (p 53). Alternatively visit W Starym,
Kinie (p 58) to drink in a former cinema, or head next
door Pod Minogą (p 56) for more beatnik boozing.
Abstract
Blow Up Hall 50 50 - this place is
as mad as it sounds, where the factory meets the artist. Ummissable.
See p 24
View meteor craters (p 47) in Morasko, or visit the Archaeological
Museum (p 64) to view the Egyptian
mummy of some woman called Hat.
The region is known for its
UFOs, so why not go all XFiles and track down some
martians. Alternatively, hang
around the ruins of the Royal
Castle (p 62) and go ghost
hunting.
Poznań In Your Pocket
poznan.inyourpocket.com
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
11
ARRIVING
PKS Poznań Bus Station is found on ul. Towarowa directly to
the South West of the old town. There are no 24hr exchange
bureaus (kantors) though one operates from between 09:00
and 18:00 - it’s just outside the main building. You’ll find a
PKO ATM (bankomat) right next to here. A Tourist Info point is
located next to the ticket booths and they provide information
and maps alone. Left luggage can be found in the main building
with lockers costing 4 and 8zł per day, depending on the size
you opt for. If you don’t trust the electronic lockers then leave
your bags with the porter close to the toilet.
Phone booths are found outside and phone cards can be
bought from the newsagents. They’ll also be able to sell you
SIM cards and Pre-Paid cards for your mobile.
A few taxis will usually stand outside the main hall and a trip to
the centre will cost around 10zł. If none are waiting then give
a reliable operator like MPT a call (061 9191). Trams 2 and
6 also run to the centre, as does bus 71. A 15 minute ticket
costing 2.00zł is all that is needed. Validate it on boarding.
Tickets are available from all newsagents.
Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy)
F-4, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks.
poznan.pl. Q Ticket office Open 06:00 - 19:30.
Arriving by car
The A2 leads into Poznań from east and west directions, and
the A5 and the A11from south to north. Follow the signs for
Poznań centrum to get into the heart of the city.
If for some absolutely weird reason you find yourself driving
through Poland with no Polish money than you can get your
foreign bills exchanged at any kantors you see. The one in
the train station is open around the clock, as is the one in the
Hotel Rzymski (Al. Marcinkowskiego 22). ATMs (bankomats)
are found scattered gernerously around, with a number found
in the main square (Rynek).
The most central Tourist Info point can be found in the main
square (C-2, Stary Rynek 59-60), and they offer maps, guides
and In Your Pocket. If you need to leave your luggage under
lock and key somewhere then your best bet is your hotel.
Alternatively, check luggage details as described in the
bus and train stations. SIM cards and Pre-Pay cards can be
purchased from all newsagents.
Arriving by plane
Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań Ławica) is 7km
west of central Poznan. On arrival there are two exchange
bureaus (kantors) to swap cash up, find them on the left hand
side of the exit. If you’ve got your card on you then there are
two PKO and one WBK cash machines (bankomats) found
on the ground floor. A Tourist Info point can be found on the
ground floor to the left of the check-in desk, and aside from
stocking Poznań’s best guidebook, you can also purchase SIM
cards as well as the usual array of tourist services. As with all
sensible airports there is absolutely no left luggage facility.
Calling home is no problem; find phone booths on either side
of passport control - chip cards to operate them are available
from every newsagent. They’ll also be able to sell you SIM
cards and pre-pay cards for your mobile phone.
Getting to town is a cinch. Taxis stand right outside the
entrance, though if none should be waiting call a reputable
operator like MPT (tel. 061 9191) or Radio Lux Taxi for something more flashy (tel. 061 9662). On the whole you’ll pay
around 25zł to get to town. Do be on the look out for cowboy
drivers though, and only use taxis that are clearly marked
with their company name and a list of prices. Cut costs by
getting a bus. There is a stop right outside the entrance with
Poznań In Your Pocket
two buses running from it: Line 59 (Airport-Bałtyk) heads to
Rondo Kaponiera with journey time taking 30 minutes. It
leaves every half an hour from 05:00, the last one departing at
22:55. Alternatively catch the Express Line L (Airport - Central
Station). Journey time takes 20 minutes though there’s only
one bus per hour (from 05:20 to 22:15). At other times the
airport is connected to the central train station by a night
bus (line 242), with one an hour from 23:52 till 03:52. Journey
time should take 30 minutes. Single tickets valid for the 30
minute journey can be bought for 3.60zł from any newsagent.
Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.
Poznań Ławica Airport (Port Lotniczy Poznań
Ławica) ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 23 43, www.
airport-poznan.com.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Arriving by train
Poznań’s Central Railway Station (Dworzec Poznań Główny)
is to the west of the old town, right next to the trade fair.
There is a 24hr currency exchange (kantor) in the main hall
as well as a ATMs (bankomats) operated by PKO and WBK
bank. Tourist Info, also in the hall, can sell phone cards, SIM
cards, In Your Pocket, tram tickets, maps and more. Left luggage lockers can be found at the end of the main hall with
small and large lockers priced at 4/8zł respectively per day.
If you want someone to look after your bag then look for
the sign directing you to Przechowalnia bagażu - there’s one
downstairs from platform 4. The price you pay is dependent
on numerous factors, including what you claim your luggage
to be worth. Frustrating? You bet.
Phone booths are found around the main hall and cards to
use them are available from newsagents and the Tourist Info
point. You’ll also be able to buy SIM cards and pre-paid cards
for your mobile at the same places.
Taxis to the main square will cost around 10-15zł, and there’s
always a constant line standing outside. Bus 51 also runs
to the city centre with buses leaving every 15 minutes. The
service runs from 04:51 to 23:16. Buy a 15 minute ticket for
the journey. They’ll set you back 2.00zł and can be purchased
from newsagents.
Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl.
City Card
The Poznan local government offer a city
card for visitors which allows you to visit
the city’s attractions while enjoying either
free admission or discounted prices.
Incorporating free travel on the city’s public transport
system as part of the price, you will be given a guide along
with the card explaining how to use it and informing you
of which places offer free admission (most museums) and
which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants, theatres,
cinemas and other attractions such as the zoos). The card
can also be used in selected places outside of the city such
as Kornik Castle and you can enjoy the additional benefit
of using the card there for an extra day in addition to the
number of days that the card is valid in the city.
Cards cost 30zl for 1-day, 40zl for 2-days and 45zl for
3-days and can be purchased from:
City Information Centre on ul. Ratajczaka 44,
Tourist Information Centre on the Market Square, and
the Glob-Tour office in Poznan railway station as well as
at selected hotels.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
13
The facts
Market values
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea
(528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of 20th February 2009 based on
€1 = 4.72zł
Product
Price (zł) Price (€)
MacDonald's Big Mac
7,50 zł
€ 1,57
Snickers
1,60 zł
€ 0,34
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
23,00 zł € 4,82
0.5ltr beer (shop)
3,00 zł
€ 0,63
0.5ltr beer (bar)
7,00 zł
€ 1,47
Loaf of white bread
2,40 zł
€ 0,50
20 Marlboros
9,60 zł
€ 2,01
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
3,71 zł
€ 0,78
Local transport ticket (15 min.) 2,00 zł
€ 0,42
Longest River
The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at
1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań
sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the
Odra at Szczecin.
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and
the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2007)
Poland 38,126,000
Warsaw 1,702,139
Kraków 756,267
Łódź 755,251
Wrocław 634,630
Poznań 564,951
Gdańsk 456,658
Katowice 314,500
Sopot 40,666
Local time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
last Sundays of March and October.
Twin Towns
Assen, Brno, Hannover, Jyväskylä, Kharkiv, Nablus, Nottinghamshire, Pozuelo de Alarcón, Rennes, Shenzhen,
Toledo.
Booze
While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign
community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the
country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked
sauce. The elite brands are commonly accepted as being
Chopin and Belvedere, though those who fancy themselves
as connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a tatanka
- a sweet blend of Żubrówka vodka (produced with a blade of
bison grass in the bottle) and apple juice. Drunks hankering
for something a little more fiery should look no further than
ordering Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) - a mix of vodka, Tabasco
and raspberry juice; it’ll leave you seeing stars. One more to
look for, and a specialty hailing from Gdańsk is Goldwasser - a
sweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf.
But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. If
you’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make sure
it’s not in front of the law. A trip to Poznań’s premier drunk
tank will set you back 250zł for a 15 hour stay. In return for
your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and
the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting
arrest will find themselves strapped down to a bed, One Flew
Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style, and if you’re luck is really low
poznan.inyourpocket.com
you may find yourself having daylights beaten out of you by
the guards. Refreshment comes in the form of limitless coffee,
though the mug it comes in will smell of urine for a reason.
Credit cards not accepted.
Climate
Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and cold
winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in the
west and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winter
and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tends
to hit around February although the last couple of winters
have been fairly mild. Below is a graphic showing average
temperatures and rainfall.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries
will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Poland. A work
of art produced before 1945 is classified as a ‘cultural good’
and must be authorised before it can leave the country. If
the gallery or shop can’t supply the zaświadczenie (permission) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewódzki
Konserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator’s Office). If a book
was printed before 1945, you’ll need permission from the
National Library to take it out of Poland.
Climate
20
80
18,1
Rainfall
Temperature
70
17,8
16,3
15
60
13,5
13,3
50
10
8,6
7,9
40
5
30
3,4
Temperature (°C)
Arriving by bus
BASICS
Rainfall (mm)
12
3,4
20
-0,2
0,5
-1,0
0
10
0
-5
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
March - June 2009
14
BASICS
BASICS
Electricity
Language smarts
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
Basic pronunciation of consonants
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
‘drz’ and ‘dż’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cześć
dzień dobry
dobry wieczór
dobranoc
tak
nie
proszę
na zdrowie
dziękuje
przepraszam
kocham cię
Mam ma imię
Jestem z Anglii
(cheshch)
(jen do-bri)
hi/bye
good morning/
afternoon
(do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
(dobrah-nots)
good night
(tahk)
yes
(nyeh)
no
(prosheh)
please
(nah zdrovyeh)
cheers
(jen-koo-yeh)
thank you
(psheh-prasham)
sorry
(koham tshe)
I love you
(mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
(yehstem zanglee)
I am from England
Necessities
Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety)
Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee
po angielsku?
pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
Nie mówię po
(nyeh moovyeh po
polsku
polskoo)
Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Jedno piwo
(yedno peevo pohpoproszę
prosheh)
Numbers
1
2
3
10
jeden
dwa
trzy
dziesięć
General
Airport
Train station
Bus station
Right/left
One ticket to
First/second class
lotnisko
dworzec pkp
dworzec pks
prawo/lewo
jeden bilet do
pierwsza/druga klasa
Poznań In Your Pocket
Where are the toilets?
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
I don’t speak Polish
Please write it down
Can I smoke here?
One beer please
yehden
dva
tshi
jayshench
National holidays
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming
from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our
residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without
a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If
they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one
of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of
town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in
the airport as you leave.
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar,
will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins
can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come
in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and tere
are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy chich
come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will also
be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM
card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in
your home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be
very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to
tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best
rate and we have quoted the National Bank of Poland mid-rate
in this section. The Polish currency had been exceedingly strong
in recent years and peaked at around 3.20zl to the euro (and
2zl to the US$) in the summer of 2008. However it has been
on a pretty much downward spiral since then with the value
of the dollar nearly doubling. So already competitive prices
for food, drink, cultural venues and transport now look very
cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre
or cinema will rarely cost more than 20zł while admission to
most museums costs around 5-10zł.
Queuing
Years of practice during the cold war era has meant that the
Poles have truly mastered the art of the queue: more to the
point, the art of queue barging. Whether you find yourself
at a ticket counter, or your nearest KFC, do not make the
mistake of being patient. ‘I’m late for something, can I go
first’ is a common ploy used to fool foreigners into giving up
their place in a line.
Old people in particular seem to assume that they should by
rights be able to take position at the head of a line. The only
time when the common rules of etiquette seem to apply are in
banks or outside ATMs, at which point the natives will assume
a stance as far as possible from the next man, often leading
to confusion who is and who isn’t queuing in the first place.
Note that some municipal offices and post offices employ a
ticket system to help organize queues.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine
source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more
poznan.inyourpocket.com
January 1 New Year’s Day
April 12, 2009 Easter Sunday
April 13, 2009 Easter Monday
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
May 31, 2009 Pentecost Sunday
June 11, 2009 Corpus Christi
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary also
Polish Army Day
November 1 All Saints’ Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles
genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started
the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe.
Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism
very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of
the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Safety
In general Poznań is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist,
and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working
tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re in a bar or
a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not
inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car
are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on overnight
trains are not unheard of, especially on the international routes
connecting Warsaw and Kraków with Prague and Berlin; book
a couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something
to bear in mind around the train station and airport.
Smoking
Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be
delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce
commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number of
male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population down
to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco friendly
country. Poland is fast becoming the major European production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip Morris,
Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all being major
investors in the economy. Those gunning for a lung-busting
taste of a traditional local brand should keep their eyes peeled
for brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and Meski. Bear in mind
that it is taken as bad luck to light your snout off a candle,
especially if you are close to the coast; an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor. Non-smokers are in for a
tough time, and the tobacco free sections (dla niepalących) of
restaurants are often in the nether-regions of the venue.
Street smarts
In this guide we have used the following Polish words and
their abbreviations:
street - ulica (ul.)
avenue - aleja (Al.)
square - plac (Pl.)
market square - Rynek
district - osiedle (os.)
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Tipping
Tipping etiquette in Poland can be confusing for foreigners.
While in other countries it’s polite to say thanks when a waiter
collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland
uttering the word thank you is taken as a sign that you won’t
be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get
very expensive. What’s more, the waiter will do his or her
best to make you feel deeply embarrassed if you try to get
anything back after realizing your mistake. For the most part
it is common to reward good service with a 10% tip once you
have received your change.
Toilets
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a circle
for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominal
fee for use of their facilities - no matter how much cash you’ve
already spent in the establishment. This is a practice also
used in train stations and most public conveniences.
Visas
Poland’s entrance into the EU has seen changes galore to visa
requirements. Members of the EU, and citizens of Australia,
New Zealand, Canada and the US can now enter Poland
without a visa and stay for a period of three months (British
citizens can stay for six months). Visas are obligatory for citizens of any country which does not have an agreement with
Poland - you’ll find a relevant list available at www.msz.gov.pl.
Visas are not available at airports or land or sea borders and
therefore must be procured from a Polish consulate outside of
Poland. Although there is no set price standard cost is 35Euro
and waiting time is usually 14 days. Again, visas issued apply for 30 or 90 days. Since October 21, 2007 Poland has
been a member of the Schengen agreement leading to the
elimination of border posts and between member countries.
Currently this applies to land crossings, with airports due to
fall into line on March 31, 2008. Those wishing to apply for
residency are required to visit the local Urzad Wojewódzki
office no later that 45 days before your visa expires. A short
term residency issue can then be issued. Those looking to
work in Poland must apply for permission from the Voivodeship
Work Office. The process allegedly takes 14 days though can
take longer depending on the office.
Quick currency convertor
PLN
1 zł
2 zł
3 zł
4 zł
5 zł
6 zł
7 zł
8 zł
9 zł
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1 000 zł
US$
3.70zł = $1
$0,27
$0,54
$0,81
$1,08
$1,35
$1,62
$1,89
$2,16
$2,43
$2,70
$5,41
$13,51
$27,03
$40,54
$54,05
$67,57
$270,27
Euro
4.72zł = €1
€ 0,21
€ 0,42
€ 0,64
€ 0,85
€ 1,06
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€ 31,78
€ 42,37
€ 52,97
€ 211,86
Pound
5.33zł = £1
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£0,94
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£3,75
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£18,76
£28,14
£37,52
£46,90
£187,62
March - June 2009
15
16
HISTORY
The Wielkopolska Uprising
Since the Third Partition of 1795 Poland had effectively
ceased to be a country, wiped off the map and carved
between Imperial Russia, Prussia and Habsburg Austria.
Poznań enjoyed brief freedom in 1806, when Napoleon’s
conquering troops marched eastwards, liberating much of
Poland and placing the city under the independent jurisdiction of the Duchy of Warsaw. But Napoleon’s military
disaster on the plains of Russia was to prove just years
away, resulting in the 1815 Congress of Vienna which saw
Poznań once more delivered back into Prussian hands.
There it was to remain for over a century later. With Europe
reeling after years of war, Germany in collapse and Russia
plunged into revolutionary chaos patriotic fervour once
more simmered to the surface. The people of Poznań,
overwhelmingly Polish, could sense independence was
round the corner, but there remained one crucial sticking
point: German stubbornness to relinquish the Wielkopolska region. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an independent
Poland had failed to set any boundaries, and while Warsaw
was back in the hands of a Polish government Poznań was
still answerable to Berlin.
Ever since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918,
the native Poznonian’s had been plotting an uprising.
Positions in local government and industry were forcibly
seized by Poles and the countdown was on for outright
war. Following weeks of tension the fuse was finally lit on
December 27. Historical accounts of how the Uprising
started vary; some sources claim it was the shooting of Francizek Ratajaczak on the steps of the police
headquarters that started the initial fighting, though
most point to a stirring speech given by the pianist and
patriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski on the balcony of what was
then the Bazar Hotel. While addressing the Polish crowd
assembled below a German counter-demonstration
passed by – within moments shots had been fired and
the Uprising had begun. Historians disagree on which side
started the hostilities, but either way there was no turning
back the clock. Within hours Polish forces had captured
the train station and post office, while elsewhere in the
region other towns rose up in rebellion.
Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak the
Polish forces followed up with numerous swift successes
against a German army shattered from four years of world
war. Neighbouring towns like Kórnik, and Mogilno were
liberated though several counter attacks suggested a
stiffening in German resolve. Fighting continued into the
New Year and by January the situation was out of hand. To
save the region from a descent into anarchy the government in waiting (christened NRL) took charge of all civil
and military issues, conscripting all men born between
1897 and 1899 into military service. Taking their oaths
of allegiance in what is today (B-2) pl. Wolnośći, the Polish
troops continued to march into increasingly fierce battles
with their German counterparts.
Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in no
small part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 saw
the beginning of international peace talks, and within two
days the French delegation had persuaded the Germans
to sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, this
time including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fighting continued for the next few days, but to all intents
and purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, were
liberated.
Poznań In Your Pocket
HISTORY
Some highlights of Poznań’s millennium-long journey from
Dark Ages settlement to 21st-century city commercial
awakening.
10th century
In 968 the first Polish cathedral is erected here. In 992
Mieszko I, the first ruler of Poland, is buried in Poznań
Cathedral.
12th century
Poznań begins to develop. At the end of the century, members
of the Knights of Malta settle at St. Nicholas’ Church and
found the earliest hospital in Poznań.
13th century
In 1253, Przemysł, Prince of Wielkopolska, bestows
Magdeburg Law rights to the town of Poznań. A regular street
sytem is laid out around a central marketplace and a castle
is added to the fortifications.
14th century
Poznań goes through its greatest period of expansion and
is soon a major centre of European trade.
16th century
A golden age in the city’s development, though in 1536 a fire
devastates the Jewish quarter, the Market Place, the Town
Hall and the Castle.
17th century
Prosperity falls after the devastatingly expensive Swedish
Wars of 1655-1657 and a series of fires and floods. Swedes
occupy Poznań in 1655, Brandenburgians in 1656.
18th century
Poznań runs out of luck. During the Northern War, Russian
and Saxon troops besiege the city in 1704. In 1710 a plague
largely depopulates the town and its suburbs. In 1725 a
hurricane destroys the towers of the Town Hall and the
Cathedral. And in 1736, the worst flood in the town’s history
wipes out almost a third of the town’s houses.
19th century
Napoleon has his headquarters here for two weeks in 1806.
As the Prussians convert Poznań into a military stronghold,
the local Poles resist the Germanisation process and form
their own cultural and economic organisations.
1978
Cardinal Karol Wojtyła is elected Pope and takes the name
John Paul II.
1980
The fledgeling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard
electrician Lech Wałęsa, calls a general strike.
1981
December 13 - The Prime Minister, General Wojciech
Jaruzelski, declares martial law.
1983
Pope John Paul II makes his first visit to Poznań. Martial law
is lifted and Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize.
1985-88
Poland’s economic crisis deepens and popular frustration
grows.
1989
Solidarność is legalised and the government agrees to meet
21 demands for improved living and working conditions.
Partly free elections are held. When Solidarność sweeps the
elections the communist regime collapses. Nonetheless, the
parliament elects General Jaruzelski president.
August - The first post-communist prime minister, Tadeusz
Mazowiecki, forms a coalition government.
1990
January 1 - Price and monetary restrictions are abandoned
in an attempt to find a natural economic equilibrium. Inflation
leaps, at one point reaching 79% per year. December 9 - Lech
Wałęsa becomes the first popularly elected president of
post-communist Poland.
1995
November 19 - Former communist Aleksander Kwaśniewski
defeats Lech Wałęsa in presidential elections.
2001
September 23 - Populist parties enjoy unprecedented
success in parliamentary elections and Solidarność, a major
force in 1989, disappears from the political scene.
2004
Poland enters the European Union on May 1, 2004 sparking
a mass exodus of young Poles seeking their fortune.
2005
April 2 Following a long battle with illness Pope John Paul
II passes away. His funeral in the Vatican is attended by a
million Poles.
20th century
The Wielkopolska Uprising of December 1918 starts in
Poznań and wins freedom for the region. In 1918-1919,
Poznań is the base of the National People’s Council and the
administrative centre for lands formerly under Prussian rule.
From 1939-1945, the local Jewish community is wiped out,
much of the town’s population is killed or displaced and about
half of the city’s buildings are destroyed. On January 23,
1945, Russian troops reach Poznań. With 5,000 mobilised
locals, they drive out the Germans after a month. The Warsaw
Pact is created in 1955.
1956
June 28 - 120,000 protestors in Poznań demand “bread,
truth and freedom”, and 76 are killed in street fighting with
the army. A political thaw begins that year under Władysław
Gomułka.
1970
Gdańsk shipyard workers strike in December to protest
poor living standards and rising prices. The police and army
intevene, killing 44 strikers. Unrest forces Gomułka out of
government.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
poznan.inyourpocket.com
1956 Uprising
June 2006 marked the 50th anniversary of The
Poznań Riots, the first recognized strike and street
demonstration in Communist Poland. Although brutally
suppressed this show of people’s strength remains an
intense source of pride for the local community, and
though it would be another 33 years until the people of
Poland would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlin
the uprising led to a significant liberalization of Soviet
policy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980
Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth of
the Solidarity movement.
The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certain
degree of optimism among Poles and promised an end
to the social and political terror associated with the
Soviet Union’s hegemony of Central and Eastern Europe.
But these hopes were to prove shortlived and Nikita
Khruschev’s address to the 20th Convention of the
USSR’s Communist Party in 1956 spoke of strengthening
socialism’s grip on the East, and of the dangers of
individualism. Simmering with discontent the Polish
media helped stir local discord and on June 28 strikes
broke out in Poznań’s factories – originally in the Stalin
brick factory (now the Hipolita Cegielskiego Factory),
before spreading to the city’s other major industrial
plants. An estimated 100,000 workers descended on
the Municipal National Council (now the Zamek building),
chanting slogans like ‘Bread and Freedom’ and ‘Out with
Bolshevism’, while demanding lower prices, higher wages
and a reduction in work quotas.
Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn when
it was revealed that the team negotiating on behalf
of the strikers up in Warsaw had been arrested and
detained by the authorities. Infuriated by this break in
protocol the demonstrators stormed Poznań prison,
liberating 257 inmates, destroying records and seizing
armaments. Armed with 188 assorted small arms
and petrol bombs the insurgents marched back to the
city centre to continue their protests. With a volatile
atmosphere threatening to run out of control the
communist authorities reacted in their traditional manner
– by over-reacting.
Under the command of Stanisław Popławski 10,300
soldiers were deployed to Poznań, as well as 400 tanks
and 30 armoured personnel carriers. Fierce street
battles followed, but with the city cut off from the outside
world order was eventually restored on June 30. The
clashes left 76 civilians (unofficial estimates claim the
number to be vastly higher) and eight soldiers dead,
and over 600 strikers injured. Victims included Roman
Strzałkowski, a thirteen year old boy shot through the
heart while waving a Polish flag, and the news of the
riots helped spark off an equally heroic anti-communist
uprising in Budapest.
Although Poland was to suffer another three decades of
Communist control the riots played a huge influence in
the shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish Communist
Party was left reeling from the chaos, and several Stalinst
hardliners found themselves dismissed in a bid to
appease the people. Władysław Gomułka was appointed
First Secretary and limited social reforms and a smallscale lifting of press censorship followed.
A new museum commemorating the events of 1956
has been opened in the Zamek on ul. Sw. Marcin (see
What to see). It is definitely worth taking a while to visit
to really understand the momentous events of the
Poznan June.
March - June 2009
17
18
CULTURE & EVENTS
As far as culture is concerned Poznan has an enormous
amount to offer. There are theatres and concert halls with
the Poznań Philharmonic, The Great Theatre and Polish
Dance Theatre to the fore. Events, concerts, exhibitions
and festivals are all organised by the Castle Cutural Centre
which covers Poznań and Estrada Poznańska. Other festivals include the Duende International Flamenco Festival,
Tzadik Poznań Festival, Animator, Malta International
Theatre Festival and World Press Photo exhibition. If that
doesn’t puff you out, try the marathon, the biggest in the
country.
Art Galleries
ABC Gallery (Galeria ABC) D-3, ul. Garbary 38/6,
tel. 061 853 02 91, www.abcgallery.pl. Modern art
exhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Arsenal City Gallery (Galeria Miejska Arsenał)
C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852 95 01, www.arsenal.
art.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 3/2zł.
Artistic Ceramics (Ceramika Artystyczna) D-2,
ul. Woźna 4, tel. 061 853 02 35. Ceramics, cups and
teapots. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Ego Gallery (Galeria Ego) C-2, ul. Wrocławska 19,
tel. 061 853 15 81, www.galeriaego.pl. Modern art gallery. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
FS Gallery (Galeria FS) A-2, ul. Kościuszki 74, tel. 061
853 79 86, www.galeriafs.com.pl. Paintings, sculptures,
artistic glass, graphics and jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Garbary 48 Gallery (Galeria Garbary 48) D-3, ul.
Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70, www.garbary48.com.
pl. Contemporary Polish paintings, sculptures and graphics.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Renes Gallery (Galeria Renes) D-2, ul. Wodna 8/9,
tel. 061 855 75 42, www.renes.com.pl. Changing exhibitions of contemporary Polish artists. Also on ul. Półwiejska 42
(Stary Browar). QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. Admission free.
Techne Gallery (Galeria Techne) B-2, Pl. Wolności 5,
tel. 061 851 85 43, www.galeriatechne.pl. Polish glass,
ceramic and clay design objects and jewellery. QOpen 10:30
- 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Ventzi Gallery (Galeria Ventzi) D-3, ul. Wszystkich
Świętych 3/8, tel. 0 501 63 20 92, www.ventzi.art.pl.
Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
Cinemas
Polish cinemas show most of the big international
releases in the original language with Polish subtitles. Be
warned though that most kids’ films (and that includes
cartoons like South Park) are dubbed.
Apollo B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 18, tel. 061 851 76 34,
www.apollo.poznan.pl.QBox office open depending on
repertoire. Tickets 15-18zł.
Cinema-City Kinepolis ul. Krzywoustego 72 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 871 56 00, www.cinema-city.pl. A modern
multiplex that boasts 560 screenings a week. Q Box office
open depending on repertoire. Tickets 14-23zł.
Cinema City Plaza / Orange IMAX Winogrady, ul.
Drużbickiego 2, tel. 061 662 62 62, www.kinoimax.
pl.Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets
17-26zł.
Poznań In Your Pocket
CULTURE & EVENTS
Malta I-3, ul. Filipińska 5, tel. 061 877 24 95, www.
kinomalta.pl. You can have a projection of your favourite
movies on request! Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 12-15zł.
Multikino 51 G-4, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51, tel. 061 624
09 10, www.multikino.pl. Also at ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary
Browar, F-4). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tickets 15-23zł.
Muza B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 30, tel. 061 852 34 03, www.
kinomuza.pl. Q Box office open depending on repertoire.
Tickets 5-15zł.
Pałacowe A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 64 65
204, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Q Box office open 11:0019:00. Tickets 10-20zł. U
Rialto E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 061 847 53 99,
www.kinorialto.poznan.pl. Q Box office open depending
on repertoire. Tickets 8-15zł.
Dance & Music
Music Theatre (Teatr Muzyczny) G-4, ul. Niezłomnych
1e, tel. 061 852 29 27, www.teatr-muzyczny.poznan.pl. Q
Box Office Open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 14:00, Sat 15:00 18:00, Sun two hours before performance. Tickets 30-40zł.
Poznań Estrada C-1, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel. 61 852 88
33, www.estrada.poznan.pl. An organisation which promotes
some of the most interesting cultural and artistic events from
the Polish and International stage. Today it hosts ‘Stage on the
Floor’ where once the famous Teatr Osmego Dnia (the 8th Day
Theatre) used to perform. This was one of the most successful student originated theatre groups of its time in the 60’s and
70’s and Estrada Poznanska are aiming to recreate the legend.
Amongst the 70 or so concerts, plays and cabaret performances
which they promote each year are ‘Made in Jazz’, School Confrontations with Art and Events worth meeting (Imprezy warte
Poznania). Check out their English language website for more
details and for dates of upcoming concerts.
The Ignacy Jan Paderewski Academy of Music in
Poznan (Akademia Muzyczna im. Ignacego Jana
Paderewskiego w Poznaniu) F-3, ul. Św. Marcin
87, tel. 061 856 89 00, www.amuz.edu.pl. Occasional
events including workshops and concerts performed by
emerging talents.
Theatres
Animation Theatre (Teatr Animacji) A-2, ul. Św. Mar-
cin 80/82, tel. 061 853 69 64, www.teatranimacji.pl.
Children’s theatre. Q Box office Open 10:00 - 12:00, 15:00
- 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, Closed Mon. Tickets 16/14zł.
Eighth Day Theatre (Teatr Ósmego Dnia) B-2, ul.
Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 855 20 86, www.osmego.art.
pl. Alternative theatre. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00.
Tickets 12-20zł.
New Theatre (Teatr Nowy) E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5,
tel. 061 847 24 40, www.teatrnowy.pl. Q Box office
Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Tickets 20-50zł.
Polish Theatre (Teatr Polski) B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia
8/10, tel. 061 852 56 28, www.teatr-polski.pl. Q Box
office Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun on spectacle days only.
Closed Mon. Tickets 20-35zł.
Tickets
City Information Centre (Centrum Informacji
Miejskiej) B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 851 96
45, www.cim.poznan.pl. The city information office sells
tickets for most concerts also on-line, and can inform you of
the theatre programme. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March
05 March La Traviata - Opera A-1,
Castle Cultural Centre
Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel. 061
659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.pl.
Literally translated, ‘La Traviata’ means
‘The woman who strayed’ or ‘The Fallen
One’. It tells the story of Violetta Valery,
a coutesan, and Alfredo, a nobleman, in
18th Century Paris. No prizes for guessing
there will be lots of tragic melodramatic
goings on. Q Opera starts at 19:00.
Tickets 10-45zł. Available at Great Theatre box office (Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00 - 19:00).
06 March Nosowska - Con-
cert A-2, Castle Cultural Centre,
ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, www.goahead.pl. Kasia Nosowska draws a
lot of water in these parts, she is
one of the most charismatic Polish
stars of the last two decades. This
concert sees her promoting her new project performing songs
of the great and unforgettable Agnieszka Osiecka, who has
written texts for Polish stars like Maryla Rodowicz, Seweryn
Krajewski or Irena Santor. Nosowska will perform some of her
interpretations of their hits.Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 75/45zł. Available at Acid Shop, ul. Ogrodowa 20, C-3
(Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun) and City
Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka, B-3 (Open 10:00-19:00,
Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).
06-29 March Student Graphic Biennial - Exhibition
C-2, Arsenal City Gallery, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 852
95 01, www.arsenal.art.pl. This is the 6th staging of this
event. The Gallery in collaboration with the Academy of Fine
Arts in Poznań will present the most interesting works of young
students who have been invited from all over the country.
It’s all with the aim of giving emerging artists a boost so well
worth the effort.Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00,
Closed Mon. Admission 3/2zł.
07 March Eska Rock Tour:
Happysad, Muchy - Concert
Eskulap, ul. Przybyszewskiego
39 (Jeżyce), www.go-ahead.pl.
This popular Polish rock band will
stop in Kraków as part of their
“Long Way Tour.” Their 2007 album
‘Nieprzygoda’ (Unadventure) hit first place in the Polish rock
charts and was one of the best selling records of the year. Q
Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 38/33zł. Available at Acid
Shop, ul. Ogrodowa 20, C-3 (Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:0014:00, Closed Sun) and City Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka,
B-3 (Open 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).
07 March Nigel Kennedy &
Jarek Śmietana - Concert A-1,
Blue Note Jazz Club, ul. Kościuszki
76/78, tel. 061 657 07 77,
www.bluenote.poznan.pl. World
famous spiky-haired, punk, enfant
terrible, Villa supporting violinist has
come a long way from his first performance in the Royal Festival Hall in
1977. He has strong ties to Poland being musical director at
the Kraków Philharmonic. This time he will be playing with the
Polish guitarist and jazz composer Jarek Śmietana. Q Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 106/65zł. Available at Blue Note
Jazz Club office (Open 12:00 - 19:00, Closed Sat, Sun).
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Castle Cultural Centre (Centum Kultury
Zamek) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646
52 60, www.zamek.poznan.pl. Built originally as a
royal residence (see what to see) at the turn of the 20th
century by Franz Schwechten to a design ordered by
Kaiser Wilhelm II, today this is one of Poland’s biggest
cultural institutions. Hosting over 700 events annually
in its palatial halls, rooms and courtyard, the building
acts as a theatre, gallery, cinema and concert venue.
The centre is well-known throught Poland and abroad
and often cooperates with other cultural institutions
to host exhibitions, film screenings, plays, conferences and educational workshops. Q Box office open
11:00-19:00, Closed Mon. Admission depending on
repertoire.
06-14 June XXXIV St John’s Fair C-2, Stary
Rynek, tel. 061 646 52 60, www.zamek.poznan.
pl. Developed as a means of attracting traders from
distant lands to Poznań in the days when Poznań was
an important trading post in the centre of Europe, the
fairs became an important cultural event attracting not
just traders but artists and performing groups from all
over Europe to the city. The fair today stretches over 9
days and includes concerts, theatre performances, film
screenings and a large of antique dealers and collectors.
During this year’s fair you will also find an open-air gallery
on ul. Zamkowa with the work of both amateur, student
and professional artists.
12-14 June
E t h n o Po r t 2 0 0 9
C-2, Stary Rynek, tel.
061 646 52 60, www.
zamek.poznan.pl. Forming part of the St John’s
Fair, this festival will present a series of ‘World Music’ concerts inspired by cultural traditions from around
the world where artists will be encouraged to come to
Poznań to meet and exchange their musical traditions
by performing music in many ethnic styles and with
many different kinds of instruments, many of which are
very rare. Poznań is trying to develop this festival into
Poland’s biggest event of its kind and there will also be
a number of workshops during the festival for people to
learn more about world music and its various origins.
This year we will have the chance to see Marie Boine, Iva
Bittova, Habit Koite and many more. Q Ticket prices
were undecided at press time. Please check website
for updates as they happen.
March - June 2009
19
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
Poznań Philharmonic
Poznań Philharmonic
C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 81,
tel. 061 852 47 08,
www.filharmoniapoznanska.pl. Th e Poznań
Philharmonic can trace
its origins back to the end
of Prussian rule after the
Wielkopolska Uprising of
1919. Over a decade of irregular performances followed
until a huge effort was made in the early 1930s by a group
of influential musicians to establish a strong organisation
in the city. This effort was helped by the local newspaper
Kurier Poznanski and the first performance of the city’s
Philharmonia, unofficially named the Poznań Philharmonic,
took place on the 14th of October 1931.
After the trauma of WWII, the Philharmonia was reborn,
initally under the title of the Workers’ Philharmonic
Society and opened its first season as the Poznań Philharmonic once again in 1947. Today, the concerts of the
Poznań Philharmonic are held in the historic auditorium
of the Adam Mickiewicz University. Q Box office Open
13:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance.
Tickets 15-40zł.
02 April
Don’t Star tle the
Love - Concert A con-
cer t organised to mark
the 4th anniversary of the
death of John Paul II. It’s a
pop concert in a classical
setting with young ar tists including Eurovision
contestant Miecz ysław
Szcześniak well as A gnieszka Gorączkowska,
Jan Radwan and others.Q Concert starts at 21:00.
Tickets 15-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic box
office (Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before
performance).
22 May Stars of World Stages - Concert Stephen
Hough is a well-known pianist. Together with conductor
Daniel Stabrawa he will perform a number of compositions by Tchaikovsky and Mozart. When he isn’t performing live Hough is locked in a studio by his management;
he has recorded over 40 CD’s. Q Concert starts at
19:00. Tickets 10-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic
box office (Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before
performance).
12 June
Season Finale - Concert This is a traditional
event which marks the
end of the 2008/2009
season. Marek Pijarowski
will be swinging the baton
and we can also see Adam
Mickiewicz University Academic Choir, Adam Mickiewicz
University Chamber Choir, Poznań Chamber Choir, Poznań
Boys’ Choir all performing compositions from the repetiore of Carl Orff. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets
15-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic box office (Open
13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance).
Poznań In Your Pocket
CULTURE & EVENTS
13 March Maciej
Obara Trio - Concert
A-1, Blue Note Jazz Club,
ul. Kościuszki 76/78, tel.
061 657 07 77, www.
bluenote.poznan.pl. This
group of three young, talented ambitious musicians
is inspired by the likes of
Miles Davis, Tomasz Stańko and Ornett Coleman. At the
Krokus Jazz Festival Maciej Obara was awarded the title of
the best saxophonist. In years to come you will be able to
brag to your jazz chums that you saw them first!Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Ticket prices were undecided at press time.
Please check website for updates as they happen.
14 March Indios Bra-
vos - Concert Eskulap,
ul. Przybyszewskiego 39
(Jeżyce), tel. 061 665 88
02, www.eskulap.art.pl.
Founded in 1996 by Piotr
Banach (ex-member of Hey)
and Gutek, with the help of
Polish TV star Kuba Wojewódzki, Indios Bravos are one
of the most famous and
popular reggae bands to
have come out of Poland.Q
Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 30/25zł. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Ratajczaka 44, B-2 (Open 09:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00).
28 March O.S.T.R. Concer t Eskulap, ul.
Pr zybys zewskiego 39
(Jeżyce), www.go-ahead.
pl. Involved in hip-hop since
the age of 12, O.S.T.R is one
of the most well-know Polish rappers and producers,
performing at Open’er festival in Gdynia. Known for
his freestyle raps that touch
on marijuana, current social
and political issues and
marijuana, he is one of the
only Polish emcees with a
music education and has
been working for MTV of
late. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 35/29zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and
Empik, ul. Ratajczaka 44, B-2 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00
- 18:00).
28 March Youth and
Fantasy - Concert C-2,
Poznań Philharmonic, ul.
Św. Marcin 81, tel. 061
852 47 08, www.filharmoniapoznanska.pl. Your
chance to hear some Mendelssohn and Berlioz. The
concert will be led by Marek
Pijarowski: a conductor who conducted Polish orchestras all
over the world including Germany, Spain, France. A must for
all fans of classical music. Q Concert starts at 18:00.
Tickets 15-40zł. Available at Poznań Philharmonic box office
(Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance).
poznan.inyourpocket.com
29 March Lord of the
Dance Arena, ul.
Wyspiańskiego 33 (Jeżyce),
tel. 022 827 96 83, www.
aart.pl. The original twiddly
toe-tappers arrive for more,
yes more, synchronised jumping up and down - 151,000 taps, yes count them, make up
this unique spectacle. It’s all lead as usual by Michael Flatley
with music by Ronan Hardiman and takes us on a journey
through the land of Irish Legends - well, they do say that
Flatley will get you anywhere. Q Event starts at 19:00.
Tickets 100-150zł. Available at www.eventim.pl, www.ticketonline.pl and Media Markt, ul. Bukowska 156, E-3 (Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
29 March Pure Reason
Revolution - Concert A-1,
Blue Note Ja z z Club, ul.
Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 061
657 07 77, www.bluenote.
poznan.pl. Alterntive band Pure
Reason Revolution, in the 90s
known as The Sunset Sound,
hail from Britain and will be playing in Poland as part of a tour to
promote their new album. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 49zł. Available at Blue Note Jazz Club office (Open
12:00 - 19:00, Closed Sat, Sun).
April 2009
Great Theatre
Gr eat Theatr e
A-1, ul. Fredr y 9,
tel. 061 659 02 00,
www.opera.poznan.
pl. The name is a bit
of a misnomer as the
Great Theatre today
is home to Opera and
Ballet. Built in 1910 by
Max Littman as a city
theatre house for the
German population of
what was then Prussian Posen, the last
German peformance
was held in 1919 before the Wielkopolska
Uprising. Plays continued to be performed
until 1924 when it became a full-time home to Polish
Opera. Under the Nazis the building received a renovation
led by the German architect Paul Bankarten but was soon
caught up in the whirlwind of WWII where it served as a
hospital for wounded German soldiers between 1943 and
1945. Despite extensive damage to the city of Poznan
in the German retreat to Berlin, the ‘theatre’ was able to
begin performances of Opera and Ballet again in 1945,
something which has continued to this day.
01 April Patricia Barber Concert Eskulap, ul. Przy-
Today the Great Theatre is a symbol of the histor y
of Polish opera and offers a diverse repretoire of
classical and contemporar y opera with par ticular
emphasis on the development of Polish opera. In
the permanent repretoire are 40 operas and 15
ballets with new projects continually being added
to develop the ‘theatre’ as an international venue
for Polish and world opera. International audiences
are par ticularl y at tracted to th e Polish-German
Hoffmann festival, the Poznan Days of Verdi festival
where all the works of the composer are presented
and the Poznan Spring of Ballet festival. Photo: K.
Citak. Q Box office Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00
- 19:00. Tickets 10-45zł.
03 April Strachy na Lachy
- Concert Eskulap, ul. Przy-
19-29 April
I X H o ff m a n n Fe s tival A-1, Great The-
byszewskiego 39 (Jeżyce),
www.go-ahead.pl. Barber is a
jazz pianist and singer characterised by her low moody vocals and
melancholic tone. It is the first
concert of the Poznań Jazz Fair and
also celebtrates the 30th anniversary of the Eskulap jazz club.Q
Time was undecided at press time.
Please check website for updates as they happen. Tickets
90/80zł. Available at City Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka 44,
B-3 (Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,Closed Sun).
byszewskiego 39 (Jeżyce),
www.go-ahead.pl. This popular Polish rock band will stop
in Kraków as par t of their
“Long Way Tour.” Their 2007
album ‘Nieprz ygoda’ (Unadventure) hit first place in the Polish rock charts and was one
of the best selling records of the year. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 35/32zł. Available at Acid Shop, ul. Ogrodowa
20, C-3 (Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun)
and City Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka, B-3 (Open 10:0019:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).
Events as they happen
Check what’s on and where
Point yourself to
www.inyourpocket.com
poznan.inyourpocket.com
atre, ul. Fredr y 9, tel.
061 659 02 00, w w w.
opera.poznan.pl. Th e
9 th ou tin g for this Opera festi val celebrating
th e work of th e librettist and composer wh o
li ve d in Poznań b et we en 1800 an d 1802. This
time th e festi val will b e open wi th Tannhauser by
Wa gner, a stor y of a German soldier based on a
medieval legend. Th e programme also includes
Coppelia by Leo Delib es, Aurora, Ond yna by Hoffmann and ever yb od y’s favouri te Th e Nu tcracker
b y Tch aikovsk y. A simpl y won d er ful s eri e s of
s h o ws . Q T i c ke t p r i c e s a n d s c h e d u l e w e r e
undecided at press time. Please ch eck websi te
for updates as th ey happen. Tickets available at
Great Th eatre b ox office (Open 13:00-19:00, Sun
16:00 - 19:00).
March - June 2009
21
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
04 April Sabaton - Concert Eskulap, ul. Przybyszews-
17 April Carl Craig - Concert
kiego 39 (Jeżyce), tel. 061 665 88 02, www.eskulap.
art.pl. Organised as part of the 90th anniversary of independence celebrations, this Swedish hard rock group will
perform their largely political songs for the crowds. Many of
the bands songs centre around the topic of war, especially
WWII; in fact their song ‘40:1’ about the 1939 battle between
Poland and Germany near the passage of Wizna, exemplifies
their anti-war stance. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
65zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik, ul. Ratajczaka
44, B-2 (Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00).
C-3, SQ Club, ul. Półwiejska 42,
www.illegalbreaks.com. Carl Craig
is a pioneer in Techno and electronic
music pioneer Carl Craig manages to
balance sqeaky noises and real human emotions. During the concert he
will present material from his latest
album: Sessions. Q Concert starts
at 22:00. Tickets 30zł. Available at
www.eventim.pl.
05 April - 14 June Rembrandt’s Graphics - Problem of Originals, Copies
and Late Reprints C-2,
25 April Coma - Concert Eskulap, ul. Pr zybys zewskiego 39
(Jeżyce), www.go-ahead.pl. These
hard-ro ckers from Łódz b e came
popular touring in suppor t of big
names like T.Love, Sweet Noise, Kazik
and Acid Drinkers, as well as international stars like Tool, Pearl Jam and
Linkin Park. Winners of the audience
award at the Polish Woodstock in
2006, they’ll be thumping the Katowice crowd with songs from their recently released third album, Hypertrophy.Q Concert starts
at 20:00. Tickets 38/33zł. Available at Acid Shop, ul. Ogrodowa 20, C-3 (Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed
Sun) and City Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka, B-3 (Open
10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).
National Museum, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 9, tel.
061 852 59 69, www.mnp.
art.pl. This exhibition will present one of the biggest collection of Rembrandt’s Graphics in Poland with most of the works
coming from XVII and XVIII century. The commentary during
the exhibition will be based on the latest research on the great
man. It’s not just looking at picture though, there are documentaries and workshops to take part in.QOpen . Admission
5.50/3.50zł, Sat free.
05 April The Subways - Concert Eskulap, ul. Przybyszews-
kiego 39 (Eskulap), www.goahead.pl. British youngsters The
Subways have received rave reviews
for their first two albums Young for
Eternity and All or Nothing. Their
brand of youthful guitar mayhem
guarantees a lively night out. Q
Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets
39zł. Available at www.eventim.pl.
07 April Mike Reed’s People
Places and Things C-1, Estrada, ul.
Masztalerska 8, tel. 061 852 88 33,
www.estrada.poznan.pl. Mike Reed is
a composer and drummer and The Chicago Tribute chose him as their artist of
the year 2008. This concert will be a
continuation of a cycle called ‘Made in
Chicago’, which presents the most interesting jazz artists from The Windy City
scene. People Places and Things is a new
project by Mike Reed with the quartet presenting new interpretations of compositions of Chicago jazz musicians from
1954-1960.QTicket prices and time were undecided at press
time. Please check website for updates as they happen.
16 April Lao Che - Concert
Eskulap, ul. Przybyszewskiego
39 (Jeżyce), www.go-ahead.pl.
A weird group whose name was
inspired by an Indiana Jones film,
and wh ose music mi xes Slovak
cul ture with electro music. Their
third album was released as recently as February 2008, so expect
a focus on their latest material.Q
Concer t star ts at 20:00. Tickets
32/27zł. Available at Acid Shop, ul. Ogrodowa 20, C-3
(Open 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun) and
City Information Centre, ul. Ratajczaka, B-3 (Open 10:0019:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Closed Sun).
Poznań In Your Pocket
25 April Ulf Wakenius &
AMC trio - Concer t A-1,
Blue Note Ja z z Club, ul.
Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 061
657 07 77, w w w.bluenote.
poznan.pl. Hailing from Sweden
Wakenius is a blues gui tarist
well-known all over Scandanavia.
He draws on influences from far
and wide - in the 80’s he went to
Rio De Janeiro where he recorded one of his best albums,
mixing blues with South American flavours. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Ticket prices were undecided at press
time. Please check website for updates as they happen.
28 March - A Broadway Musical
- Thriller Live Arena, ul.
Wyspiańskiego 33 (Jeżyce), tel.
022 696 99 00, www.makroconcert.pl. Owwww! You know the hits,
you’ve seen the videos, now come and
see the musical based on the gloved
one’s life. Our sources tell us that when
Michael saw the show for himself, he
couldn’t stop crying... It’s been all over
the world and finally arrives in Poland
and is full of all the later hits as well as the earlier tunes he did
with his brothers in the Jackson 5. Q Event starts at 18:00.
Tickets 90-150zł. Available at www.makroconcert.com.
May
photography in the modern world and how this role can
be used to manipulate us. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Closed
Mon. Admission free.
10-13 May Rigoletto - Opera
A-1, Great Theatre, ul. Fredry 9, tel.
061 659 02 00, www.opera.poznan.
pl. Rigoletto who is the Royal Jester
hides his daughter Gilda from the eyes
of the world. Despite his attempts to
keep her safe she is seduced by the
unfaithful prince. To revenge this Rigolet to hires an assassin to kill his
master. The song performed by the
prince made this opera famous worldwide Q Opera starts at 19:00. Tickets 10-45zł. Available
at Great Theatre box office (Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 16:00
- 19:00).
If you have had an experience to remember at any of
the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly or
downright sad, let the two million regular unique visitors
to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it.
Every venue on our website now has a module below it
for you to comment on the places we write about. You
can agree with us, scold us, praise us or damn us to
hell (in the case of angry restaurant owners unhappy
with their reviews).
29 May The Rempis Percussion
Quartet - Concert C-1, Estrada, ul.
Masztalerska 8, tel. 061 852 88 33,
w w w.estrada.poznan.pl. Another
concert from the Made in Chicago cycle,
presenting the most talented stars of
Chicago jazz industry. Dave Rempis is
also the saxophonist of the group Vandermark 5. Established in 2004 The
Rempis Percussion Quartet takes its
inspirations from Eastern African tradition, funk and free jazz. Their latest album Hunter-Gatherers
has been decribed as the best experimental albums of the
year. Q Concert starts at 20:30. Ticket prices were undecided at press time. Please check webswide for updates as
they happen.
June
23 June Chris Corea Concert A-1, A. Mickiewicz
University Hall, ul. Wieniawskiego 1, w w w.goahead.pl. Alongside Herbie
Hancock, Corea is considered
one of the finest jazz pianists
and composers of re cen t
times. He had a major impact
on the development of such
music styles as free jazz and
post-bop. It all began at the tender age of 4 when he first sat
in front of a piano, but by the end of the 60’s he had performed
in the Miles Davis group. Part of the jazz aristocracy for sure.
Q Ticket prices and time were undecided at press time.
Please check the website for updates as they happen.
Ongoing
Until 31 March Born in Revolt.
Great Poland Army 1918-1921.
(Zrodzone w Powstaniu. Wojska Wielkopolskie 1918 - 1921)
tural Centre, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 646
52 60, w w w.zamek.
poznan.pl. This exhibi tion
has the lofty aim of making
u s refl e c t on t h e rol e of
C-1/2, National Museum, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. 061 852
67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. The 90th
anniversary of the Wielkpolska Uprising is remembered by way of paintings,
photographs and other mementos
from the era. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00,
Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Thu. Admission 5.50/3.50zł,
Sat free.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
poznan.inyourpocket.com
08 May - 07 June Photo
Biennial A-2, Castle Cul-
Have Your Say
Buddha Bar, Poznan
I went to Buddha with friends in November, and have been
there twice before. But what I saw and experienced that night
was pathetic. Atmosphere: There was two pretty hot girls on
the floor. A group of drunk, black clad men approached them
and one of them threw his glass on the floor. Girls smiled,
there was conversation, anyhow one of them started fiddling
with the DJs dials, and the DJ was too scared to do anything.
Then I saw one of the drunk guys making some mess, he
saw me and hit my head! I tried to calm him down. Pointless.
I went to find a security and the manager to tell them there
was a situation. I showed them the aggressive guy (he was
hitting someone else at the time!) but the security guard
told me to go away. Apparently the drunk guy was one of
the security team! In fact, I was advised to ‘get the fuck out
here, if you don’t want me to crash your face!’. The manager
saw all of this but did nothing!
Posted by Bestja
W Starym Kinie
Irritating. Full of pseudo thesps and other studenty types
pooling together their meagre funds to share two beers
between them. Once one of the top alternative bars in
Poznan, now it’s just a noisy student trap.
Posted by Bristol Exile
SQ
oh God, I would never have guessed there were so
many morons in Poznan until I came here. As your
reviewer says, it’s Big Time Bertie Central here - fake
tans and Prada bling. What horrible people, I don’t care
how good the music is, they’d have to pay me to spend
my time with such heinous characters. Gimme a long
night knocking back the booze in puzon over this any
day of the week.
Posted by Behind You
March - June 2009
23
WHERE TO STAY
24
WHERE TO STAY
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
e th
Mor
elco
an W
me,
u
ven
Ben
ti
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
C Swimming pool
D Sauna
W Wi-Fi
Hemmer, the aim of this hotel is to allow guests to ‘experience
and participate in the creation of art’. Pretentious? You bet. But
who cares, if there’s one place you should scrimp and save to
stay in, it’s this one. Perks include in house spa, butler service,
DVDs on request and iphones for guests. There’s little point in
describing the individually designed rooms, suffice to say they
make use of the latest fads, trends and techno gimmickery;
you really have to see it to believe it. Q Prices unavailable at
press time due to a clash with the directors holiday.
Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. 061 858 68 68,
ul. Sw. Marcin 2, 61-803 Poznan
T. +48 618590 590 F.+48 618590 591
prestige@dominahotels.pl
www.dominahotels.com
In most hotels prices shoot up during fairs and they can hardly be called fair rates. Rooms rates tend to double during the
annual MTP, Polagra, Budma and Infosystem fairs and prices
will fluctuate according to the importance of the fair. On the
plus side most hotels offer substantial weekend discounts.
Prices listed include breakfast and VAT unless otherwise
noted. Hotels list their prices in either złoty, euro or US dollars
- either way your bill will be calculated using the exchange rate
of the day and presented to you in local currency.
Upmarket
NEW
Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Półwiejska 32, www.blow-
uphall5050.com. If you want wow factor then look no further,
the Blow Up Hall is the most exciting hotel development Poznan,
maybe even Poland, has ever seen. Attached to the Stary
Browar building this is little less than a work of art. Designed
by Tadao Ando, and based on a project by Rafael Lozano-
Poznań In Your Pocket
fax 061 858 68 69, recepcja@brovaria.pl, www.brovaria.
pl. The lower floors are home to one of Poland’s only microbreweries, and if that doesn’t convince you to stay, then a quick
look around the rooms will. Furnished with taste rooms bridge the
gap between contemporary styles and the classic touches their
old town location deserves. Cream coloured accommodation
includes cable TV, dataports and complicated flower arrangements, and some have views overlooking the main square.
Q21 rooms (3 singles 250 - 410zł, 17 doubles 290 - 470zł, 1
apartment 430 - 580zł). PTJHARKW hhh
Domina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2,
tel. 061 859 05 90, fax 061 859 05 91, prestige@
dominahotels.pl, www.dominahotels.com. Domina offers
luxury serviced apartments, packed with designer trappings
and gadgets. Top-class accommodation comes with sound
system, bathrobes and fully fitted lounge and kitchen areas
included in the price.Q40 rooms (40 apartments 399 820zł). PTARLGW hhhh
HP Park K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. 061 874 11 00, fax 061
874 12 00, hppoznan@beph.pl, www.hotelepark.pl. Tidy rooms
a stone’s throw from Lake Malta. Pastel coloured rooms come with
uniform three star accessories: telephone, cable TV and minibar, while
the business centre attracts a regular stream of busy looking travellers. All rooms will have been renovated by the end of November.Q98
rooms (97 singles 310 - 520zł, 97 doubles 380 - 620zł, 1 apartment
600 - 800zł). PTHAULGKW hhh
poznan.inyourpocket.com
IBB Andersia Hotel G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 667
80 00, fax 061 667 80 01, rezerwacja@andersiahotel.
pl, www.andersiahotel.pl. The location is unbeatable,
with the Stary Browar shopping centre next door and the
old town a shot away. Included in the deal are an indoor
pool, air-conditioning throughout, and top-band conference
facilities. Fitted with plasma screens and heated bathroom
floors this is a choice pampering experience, with window
side sofas proving a great spot to enjoy your complimentary
morning paper. Long term guests have the choice of three
luxury apartments located on the upper floors.Q 171
rooms (105 singles 460 - 820zł, 42 doubles 525 - 885zł,
24 apartments 545 - 1750zł). PTHARUFLG
KDCW hhhh
Mat’s ul. Bułgar ska 115 (Grunwald), tel. 061
868 78 31, fax 061 861 41 78, hotel@hotelmats.
pl, w w w.hotelmats.pl. An engaging combination of
classic and modern; antique clocks and rococo-style
armchairs next to shining glass and tennis courts. This
is not your standard three star venture, and as such is
well worth the taxi ride from the city centre. Rooms have
had a thorough refit in the last few months, cementing
the status of Mat’s as one of Poznań’s premier choices.
Q 36 rooms (25 singles 219 - 449zł, 22 doubles 269 549zł, 9 suites 339 - 599zł, 2 apartments 369 - 629zł).
PHARUGKD hhh
Mercure Poznań E-3, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. 061
855 80 00, fax 061 855 89 55, rez.mer.poznan@
orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. A two-minute walk for the
international Trade Fair, so no prizes for guessing that
most visitors hail from the business community. Excellent conference facilities and modern rooms equipped
with dataports and cable TV. Q 228 rooms (227 singles
459 - 799zł, 227 doubles 459 - 799zł, 1 apar tment
1000 - 1750zł). Breakfast 65zł. PTHARUFL
GKDW hhhh
NH A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. 061 624 88 00, fax
061 624 88 01, nhpoznan@nh-hotels.com, w w w.
nh-hotels.com. The NH wins our favour for the full y
restored ar t nouveau frontage, behind which guests will
find an upscale four star endeavor that fully warrants
the slightl y steep prices. Check-in is conducted in a
sleek room walled with dark woods, while sleeping is
reser ved for stylishly simple bedrooms, kitted out with
puffy beds, rich colours, wood floors and a chic ‘less is
more’ fashion. Q 93 rooms (93 singles €89 - 119, 93
doubles €89 - 119). Breakfast €17. PTHARUF
GKDW hhhh
Notus City Park Residence ul. Wyspiańskiego
26 (Grunwald), tel. 061 221 84 00, fax 061 221 84
02, notuspoznan@for tenhotels.pl, w w w.for tenhotels.pl. An oasis of opulence and class the Notus offers
luxur y accommodation in a low-level turn-of-the-centur y
building, wh ose ex terior makes use of sandblasted
bri ck work and pl en t y of glass. Rooms are nothin g
less than the final word in designer li ving and spor t
32 inch flatscreen T Vs, king size beds, safe and work
desk, while the bathrooms come dripping wi th plenty
of posh toiletries and goodies to secretl y swipe before
you leave. And don’t forget your swimming togs ei ther,
set under a cur v y glass roof the pool here is one of the
seven wonders of Poznań. You’ll also find microwaves
inside the rooms, which is a good job - this place is
so new the restaurant hasn’t been finished yet. Q 88
rooms (88 apar tments 265 - 840zł). PTHAR
FGDCW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
25
26
WHERE TO STAY
Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1,
tel. 061 858 71 51, fax 061 833 29 61, rez.nov.
poznan@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. Smar t, newlyrenovated rooms found inside one of the tallest hotels
in the ci ty. Each room comes wi th pristine bathroom,
datapor t, CNN and minibar. Q 480 rooms (460 singles
235 - 881zł, 310 doubles 235 - 881zł, 10 apar tments
575 - 1394zł). Break fast 60zł. Also ch eck wi th th e
hotel for special dail y prices. POTHARUF
GKW hhh
Novotel Poznań Malta K-3, ul. Warszawska 64/66,
tel. 061 654 31 00, fax 061 654 31 95, rez.nov.
malta@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. A cost-effective,
squat hotel on the edges of Lake Malta. You know what
you’re getting with Novotel, and all codes of Western practice are tightly observed. Staff have been programmed to
show patience and good humour, while rooms are bright
and modern. Q149 rooms (149 singles 179 - 639zł, 149
doubles 179 - 639zł). Breakfast 44zł. Also check with the
hotel for special daily prices. T HARUFL
GKW hhh
Royal A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. 061 858 23
00, fax 061 858 23 06, royal@hotel-royal.com.
pl, w w w.hotel-royal.com.pl. Plenty of character and
histor y inside this cour tyard hotel. Having ser ved as
army HQ during the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising, Royal
is d e cora te d wi th woo d pan ellin g, floral-pa t tern e d
du vets and plum colour schemes. The Mr Fi x-I t staff
can organize ever y thing from car rentals to sightseeing
tours, while guests can also enjoy a 24hr bar. Q 31
rooms (9 singles 224 - 380zł, 14 doubles 294 - 460zł,
7 sui tes 315 - 485zł, 1 apar t m en t 350 - 535zł).
HALGW hhh
Poznań In Your Pocket
WHERE TO STAY
Sheraton Poznań Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel.
061 655 20 00, fax 061 655 20 01, reservations.
poznan@sheraton.com, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/.
Just steps away from the Trade Fair, though this is more
than the business travellers choice. The Sheraton Poznan is
the number one hotel in town, with a chic modern style that
covers every inch of the hotel. Accommodation comes with
flat screen TVs, walk-in showers, top-notch sound proofing
and the most comfortable beds in the country. Head to the
upper floors to enjoy facilities like the swimming pool and
fitness room, or check out the executive lounge for video
games, magazines and beverages. It’s very impressive, but
what really stands out here are the staff; experts in hospitality.
Q181 rooms (168 singles 375 - 990zł, 168 doubles 375 990zł, 13 apartments 615 - 4040zł). Breakfast 90zł. Tax 7%.
PTHARUFGKDCW hhhhh
Stare Miasto (The Old Town) C-3, ul. Rybaki 36, tel.
061 659 00 43, fax 061 663 62 42, rezerwacja@hotelstaremiasto.pl, www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. Prim rooms fully
deserving the three stars they have been granted. All come
with ensuite bathrooms and internet access, and given the
old town location are surprisingly large. The studio and apartment are also open for business and are fully air-conditioned.
Conference facilities: a conference room up to 40 people, airconditioned with a screen, projector and sound system. Note
that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q23 rooms (3 singles
195 - 345zł, 18 doubles 255 - 475zł, 1 suite 275 - 530zł, 1
apartment 350 - 690zł). PJHARGW hhh
Trawiński G-1, ul. Żniwna 2, tel. 061 827 58 00, fax
061 820 57 81, office@hoteltrawinski.com.pl, www.
hoteltrawinski.com.pl. Swish rooms with modern trappings,
yellowish colour schemes and adjustable air-conditioning.
Tucked on a quiet rise overlooking Citadel Park. On-site
poznan.inyourpocket.com
facilities also include hairdresser and the full line of conference services. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.
Q 58 rooms (51 singles 240 - 430zł, 36 doubles 299
- 580zł, 6 suites 390 - 700zł, 1 apartment 900 - 1200zł).
PTHARUFLGKD hhhh
Vivaldi G-1, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. 061 858 81 00, fax
061 853 29 77, vivaldi@vivaldi.pl, www.vivaldi.pl. A
curvy, futuristic exterior shields one of Poznań’s premier
hotels. Upscale and comfortable, the highlight has to be the
two-level suite, with a downstairs bedroom accessed by a
set of spiral stairs. Rooms come armed with all the modern
trappings, including dataports and mini-bars. Q48 rooms
(38 singles 260 - 480zł, 9 doubles 390 - 690zł, 1 apartment
590 - 820zł). PTHARLGKDCW hhhh
Mid-range
Astra ul. Lutycka 31 (Jeżyce), tel./fax 061 848 94 72,
astra@astra.ta.pl, www.astra.ta.pl. With its vertical ‘HOTEL’
sign and roadside location Astra could easily be a motel in Nowhere, USA. Sterile and overpriced, the weary furnishings need
an immediate update. Six kilometres from town, so add taxi
fares to the price. Q12 rooms (5 doubles 220 - 460zł, 6 triples
320 - 620zł, 1 quad 420 - 750zł). HAUGKW hh
Campanile E-2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. 061 845
66 00, fax 061 845 66 01, poznan@campanile.com.
pl, www.campanile.com.pl. The Poznań Campanile is
everything we’ve come to expect from such a good value
chain; high standard modern rooms furnished with a colourful flourish. Bathtubs, net connection and cable TV come as
standard. Q80 rooms (76 singles 179 - 279zł, 76 doubles
179 - 279zł, 4 apartments 240 - 339zł). Breakfast 32zł.
PTHARULGKW hh
poznan.inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Derby ul. Lutycka 34 (Wola), tel./fax 061 848 30 97,
hotelderby@poczta.onet.eu, www.hipodromwola.com.
pl. Owned by the Polish Equestrian Federation though it’s unlikely you’ll meet any Arab racehorse owners in this glum excuse for a hotel. Rooms are clean, but the furniture belongs
in history. Even the plastic flowers are wilting. Surprisingly,
the restaurant serves good Lithuanian meals. Q43 rooms
(41 singles 100 - 180zł, 41 doubles 120 - 250zł, 1 suite 240
- 290zł, 1 apartment 270 - 330zł). AKW hh
Dorrian ul. Wyspiańskiego 29 (Grunwald), tel. 061
867 45 22, fax 061 867 45 59, rezerwacja@dorrian.
pl, www.dorrian.pl. Dorrian catches the eye (literally) with
pleasantly modern rooms, impeccable service and some
shocking colours. They’ve got a captive audience what with
the Trade Fair next door, so it comes as no shock to find the
prices a little inflated.Q18 rooms (18 singles 210 - 590zł,
17 doubles 230 - 700zł). PHAUGKW hhh
Feniks ul. Czeremchowa 26 (Wilda), tel./fax 061
832 60 75, pensjonat@feniks.poznan.pl, www.feniks.
poznan.pl. Essentially decent apartments decorated with
lurid yellow colour schemes that bring to mind a field of sick
daffodils. Housed inside a modern, suburban townhouse,
Feniks appears geared towards the traveller with agrophobia;
all rooms have kitchens, private bathrooms and lounges
furnished in a generic showroom style, meaning there’s no
reason to stray further than the front porch.Q18 rooms (16
singles 150 - 360zł, 8 doubles 210 - 540zł, 2 apartments
320 - 700zł). HALGW hh
March - June 2009
27
WHERE TO STAY
28
WHERE TO STAY
Gromada ul. Babimojska 7 (Grunwald), tel. 061 866 92
07, fax 061 867 31 61, hotelpoznan@gromada.pl, www.
gromada.pl. A large, ugly block conceals dull, unimaginative
accommodation. But while Gromada won’t win points for
beauty it’s clean, cheap and only a kilometre from the city
centre, and that’s good enough for some.Q73 rooms (70
singles 75 - 330zł, 66 doubles 90 - 390zł, 3 apartments 232
- 590zł). PTHARULGKDW hhh
forest. Everything from the twisty wrought iron banisters
to weird mottled wallpaper alludes to the outdoors, and
never more so than inside the Narnia style restaurant. While
they’ve been designed to look olde world the rooms are
positively 21st century, and complete with flatscreen TVs
and those trendy standalone sinks.Q14 rooms (1 single
140 - 195BGN, 13 doubles 140 - 195BGN). Breakfast 25zł.
ARGKW hhh
Henlex ul. Spławie 43 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 879 87
Hotel System Premium ul. Lechicka 101 (Nowe
71, fax 061 870 59 03, henlex@hotel-henlex.com.pl,
www.hotel-henlex.com.pl. From the outside this stark, sandcoloured block appears quite forbidding, and the neon hotel sign
adds to an eerie look that David Lynch would love. Step through
the glass doors and Henlex takes on another guise: that of a
superb mid-range hotel. Completed only recently rooms are
furnished with soft colours and modern finishes - with corner
bathtubs in the suites. Finnish sauna also onsite.Q22 rooms
(20 singles 140 - 200zł, 19 doubles 170 - 370zł, 2 apartments
295 - 560zł). PAGKDW hhh
Miasto), tel. 061 821 07 00, fax 061 821 07 70,
premium.poz@hotelsystem.pl, www.hotelsystem.pl.
A high standard, hi-tech affair featuring pleasant cream
colour schemes and that great rarity in Poznań - a top-notch
hotel swimming pool. And there’s no problem if you left that
laptop in the strip club; each room comes equipped with its
own PC. Q107 rooms (53 singles 229 - 424zł, 47 doubles
229 - 459zł, 7 apartments 329 - 609zł). Breakfast 35zł.
PTHARUFGKDCW hhh
Hotel 222 E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. 061 869 91
00, fax 061 858 44 44, h3110@accor.com, www.orbisonline.pl. If anything goes wrong, the staff get 15 minutes
to fix it - otherwise you stay for free. It’s almost tempting to
sabotage the plumbing, but why would you want to. Ibis offers
smashing value in clean, generic rooms. Q146 rooms (146
singles 169 - 399zł, 146 doubles 169 - 399zł). Breakfast
29zł. PTJHAUGKW hh
40, fax 061 868 53 52, hotel222@hotel222.com.pl,
www.hotel222.com.pl. Excellent hotel with an absurd
position atop of a shopping mall. Bright, modern rooms and
a crimson restaurant in which to enjoy breakfast. Trams N°6
& 13 stop right on the doorstep. Note that not all rooms
have air conditioning.Q51 rooms (51 singles 150 - 399zł,
51 doubles 170 - 499zł). PHAGKW hh
NEW
Hotel Księcia Józefa ul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe
Miasto), tel. 0 61 872 63 19, fax 0 61 879 86 55, hotel@
hotelkj.pl, www.hotelkj.pl. A lovely little deal that almost
fools guests into thinking they’ve stepped into a fairytale
Ibis H-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. 061 858 44
Ikar G-2, ul. Kościuszki 118, tel. 061 658 71 05, fax
061 851 58 67, ikar@hotele21.pl, www.hotelikar.com.
pl. Located on the edge of Old Town and about a ten-minute
drive from the train station, Ikar is modest but pleasant,
with a lot of polished stone and wood, rattan furniture
and Art Nouveau-style light fixtures. One of the nine floors
was recently renovated, and all rooms have satellite TV, a
phone, a fridge and a bathroom with a shower. Note that not
all rooms have air-conditioning. Q144 rooms (57 singles
180 - 350zł, 80 doubles 260 - 510zł, 7 suites 310 - 590zł).
PTJHARULGK hhh
Lech A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. 061 853 01 51,
fax 061 853 08 80, recepcja@hotel-lech.poznan.pl,
www.hotel-lech.poznan.pl. Lech presents large, spotless rooms complete with satellite TV, datapor ts and
bathrooms. Planted in the middle of Poznań, so no need
for taxis. Q79 rooms (34 singles 142 - 310zł, 40 doubles
234 - 430zł, 4 triples 346 - 530zł, 1 apartment 264 - 580zł).
JARKW hh
Młyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37
(Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 99 35, fax 061 870 94
25, gospoda@mlynskiekolo.pl, www.mlynskiekolo.pl.
Outstanding accommodation inside an atmospheric timber
lodge. Rooms, named after the seasons, feature hand-carved
furniture, fresh flowers and paintings of peasant life. The ‘May’
apartment comes with a circular Roman bath, perfect for
savouring the good life. Downstairs the restaurant serves big
portions of hunter-ish dishes like duck, boar and ribs. Q14
rooms (12 singles 203 - 290zł, 12 doubles 252 - 360zł, 2
apartments 500 - 580zł). TAGKW
Meridian E-1, ul. Litewska 22 (Park Sołacki), tel. 061
656 53 53, fax 061 656 55 26, hotel@hotelmeridian.
com.pl, www.hotelmeridian.com.pl. A charismatic hotel
with the appeal of a private villa. The picturesque location on
the fringes of a forest is complimented by warm earth tones in
the rooms and all expected 21st century trimmings: cable TV,
air conditioning, etc. Q10 rooms (10 singles 130 - 320zł, 10
doubles 170 - 360zł). P HALKW hhh
Olimpia ul. Taborowa 8 (Grunwald), tel. 061 864 42
00, fax 061 864 42 06, rezerwacja@hotel-olimpia.
com.pl, www.reges.pl/olimpia.htm. This ugly concrete
block serves as a marvellous blast-to-the-past, with musty
furnishings straight from the Cold War era. Basic, dated
and gloomy, though the relative proximity to the Trade Fair
keeps it ticking over with a stream of bewildered looking
business travellers. Q44 rooms (16 singles 185 - 240zł,
25 doubles 250 - 340zł, 6 triples 300 - 390zł, 3 suites
330 - 430zł). HALK
Polonez G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36, tel. 061 864
71 00, fax 061 852 37 62, rez.polonez@orbis.pl,
www.orbisonline.pl. Brownish rooms in an enormous
block on the nor thern edges of the centre. While the
unimaginative accommodation does little to feed the
crea ti ve spiri t, all rooms have tel eph one, sa telli te
T V and datapor ts. Th ere’s a surprisin gl y good gi f t
shop on the ground floor. Q 369 rooms (167 singles
120 - 480zł, 191 doubles 120 - 480zł, 11 apar tments
190 - 480zł). Breakfast 35zł. OT HARUL
GKDW hhh
Rezydencja Solei D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 855 73
51, fax 061 855 73 50, recepcja@hotel-solei.pl, www.
hotel-solei.pl. Squirreled away just beyond Old Town Square
Solei present compact rooms decorated with floral patterns,
IKEA water colours and wood furniture. It’s on a quiet street,
but close to all the action, though prices sky-rocket during
trade fairs. A sister hotel, Rezydencja Solei (ul. Wałecka 2,
tel. 061 847 58 38) offers much the same though is usually fully booked with groups using the conference facilities.
Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.Q11 rooms
(9 singles 179 - 369zł, 2 doubles 249 - 489zł, 2 apartments
330 - 589zł). PARGW
Our hotel is located in a peaceful forest
A residence in the very heart of the city
Hotel Rezydencja Solei ****
ul. Wałecka 2
60-461 Poznań - Strzeszynek
tel. 061 847 58 38
faks 061 847 51 14
e-mail: hotel@hotel-solei.pl
www.hotel-solei.pl
Rezydencja Solei
ul. Szewska 2
61-760 Poznań
tel. 061 855 73 51
faks 061 855 73 50
e-mail: recepcja@hotel-solei.pl
www.hotel-solei.pl
We will surprise you with a pleasant, family atmosphere, professional staff and comfortable interiors.
It will be a great honour to have you as our guest and we guarantee your stay will be a real pleasure.
Poznań In Your Pocket
poznan.inyourpocket.com
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
29
30
WHERE TO STAY
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WHERE TO STAY
Rzymski C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. 061 852
81 21, fax 061 852 89 83, hotel@rzymski.pl, www.
hotelrzymski.pl. Right in the city centre, so do ask for a
room facing away from the street if you don’t wish to be
woken by a dawn chorus of trams and refuse trucks. Rooms
are pleasantly decorated in brownish colours, and while spotless the bathrooms come with a well-used musk - avoid such
situations by asking for one of the renovated rooms.Q87
rooms (81 singles 200 - 330zł, 53 doubles 250 - 470zł, 1
triple 375 - 660zł, 4 suites 130 - 570zł). TJHAR
ULGKW hhh
Pomorski E-3, ul. Sierakowska 36, tel. 061 867 28 31,
T&T ul. Metalowa 4 (Górczyn), tel. 061 864 12 81, fax
91, fax 061 833 24 44, sporthotel@posir.poznan.
pl, www.sporthotel.poznan.pl. Although it’s located
in the Nautilus Sports Centre you’re going to get enough
exercise humping your bags up three flights of stairs.
Rooms are clean, recently painted and fully renovated,
but come with the sort of identikit furniture and carpets
you’d find in an office. Beggars can’t be choosers, and
Sport isn’t bad value. Pay extra to use the sports complex.
Q 23 rooms (3 singles 170 - 240zł, 13 doubles 220 300zł, 5 triples 270 - 400zł, 2 apartments 350 - 525zł).
HAGDCW hh
061 864 12 82, hotel@hoteltt.com.pl, www.hoteltt.
com.pl. Situated at the end of a dead-end street, and with
a tram stop and taxi rank just around the corner, T&T has
spacious rooms that keep the business traveller in mind.
Intriguingly, not even the staff know what T&T stands for.
Q17 rooms (15 singles 185 - 330zł, 15 doubles 225 380zł, 2 apartments 295 - 490zł). PHARUGKD
hhh
Zagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. 061
842 77 90, fax 061 842 77 91, info@zagrodabamberska.
pl, www.zagrodabamberska.pl. Wooden beams, patterned
rugs and sturdy wooden furniture create a rural ambience in
this recently renovated farm-style annex. For summer the
garden boasts a huge open-air barbecue, and a collection of
wood carved animals to trip over. Q10 rooms (7 singles 270
- 495zł, 7 doubles 300 - 550zł, 3 apartments 360 - 680zł).
THALGKW hhh
Budget
Gold E-4, ul. Bukowska 127a, tel. 061 842 07 74, fax
What’s hot, what’s not
As expected, we’ve returned from our four month
hiatus with an avalanche of newbies to sort and sift.
It’d be remiss to start with anything but the best,
simply because in this case the best doesn’t just
mean ‘the best in Poznan’, it means the best, period.
The Blow Up Hall 50 50 might have a name you want
to punch, but give it a chance first. This is the most
impressive design hotel in Poland, and proof that
Poznan is flexing up to give Krakow and Warsaw a
run for their money. If you cough at their rack rates,
and most people do, then do at least make a moment
for their bar, an industrial chic cocktail spot where
the artist meets the factory. Sticking to cocktail bars
and FBI have gone for a generic sleek and shiny look
you saw emerge about a decade ago, and if their
predecessors are anything to go by this address
will be out of business by the end of the year. Unlike
Fever, whose Rynek location and 70s style is already
proving a hit. Onto food and we’re delighted to toot the
trumpets and announce the arrival of another Indian
restaurant. This one is called Reeta’s and it’s every
bit as good anything you’d find in Britain. Sushi too
continues to gain popularity, with Kyokai being the
latest sushi stop, while for something international
give Madagaskar a whirl. Finally, an RIP goes out to
the Sports Bar in Dom Vikingow, whose untimely
demise means it’s off to the Sheraton’s Someplace
Else if you require Sky Sports.
Poznań In Your Pocket
061 842 07 73, goldhotel@goldhotel.pl, www.goldhotel.pl. A small suburban hotel with boxy modern rooms
complete with sliding bathroom doors and a vase of sweets
on the reception desk. A very decent, budget option. Close
to the airport, so expect to be travelling to and from town by
chariot. Q11 rooms (11 singles 150 - 170zł, 11 doubles
190 - 210zł). AW hh
fax 061 867 53 62, pomorskihotel@neostrada.pl, www.
hotel-pomorski.dmf.pl. Pictures of Italy greet the guest from
the newly renovated walls of Pomorski’s corridors. After being
completely overhauled, the hotel now has a better reception
area, very comfy family rooms (3-bedded) but rather bland
double rooms. It’s a short walk to the tramstop on Grunwaldzka. Q68 rooms (25 singles 120 - 155zł, 38 doubles
170 - 220zł, 4 suites 255 - 300zł, 1 apartment 400 - 450zł).
HARUFGK hh
Sport F-5, ul. Chwiałkowskiego 34, tel. 061 833 05
Hostels
By The Way Hostel C-3, ul. Półwiejska 19/10, tel.
0 698 38 04 73, hostel@bythewayhostel.pl, www.
bythewayhostel.pl. Wrocław was discovered a few seasons
back by the backpackers - now it looks like it’s Poznań’s turn.
The opening of By The Way is another step on the path of
backpacking glory, and this place offers a pleasingly artistic
character, up-to-date fittings, and rooms kitted out with
reading lamps and lockers. The location is spot on, and the
no-curfew policy allows travellers full opportunity to test out
www.inyourpocket.com
dance moves learned in Morocco.Q7 rooms (3 doubles
130zł, 1 Six-person room 330zł, 1 Eight-person room 400zł,
2 Ten-person room 450zł). 16 dorm beds 45-65zł per person.
TAGW
Cinnamon A-2, ul. Gwarna 10/2, tel. 061 851 57 57,
poznan@cinnamonhostel.com, www.cinnamonhostel.
com. Enter via a shabby-looking barred gateway to find a
rather spiffy choice of budget lodgings. The common room
is right out of studentsville, what with all the IKEA bits and
pieces and band posters, while the rooms are neat and simple
and themed on colours. The curtains aren’t particularly effective in their job, but everything from beds to kitchens to
bathrooms is fresh, clean and pleasant. Q9 rooms (4 singles
100zł, 4 doubles 135zł, 2 quads 240zł, 2 Eight-person room
400zł, 1 Nine-person room 405zł). 43 dorm beds 45-60zł
per person. ARW
Frolic Goats Hostel C-2, ul. Wrocławska 16/6 (entrance from ul. Jaskółcza), tel. 061 852 44 11, bookings@frolicgoatshostel.com, www.frolicgoatshostel.
com. Accommodation ranges from private rooms to 12 man
dorms with beds being of the sturdy pine type. Everything
smells and feels brand new here, which is exactly what it is,
and details include a kitchen with a preserved stone chimney
as well as bicycle hire and the promise of round-the-clock hot
water. If mingling with backpackers washing their socks is
beneath you then ask about their private apartments on ul.
Krysiewicza 6. Q8 rooms (3 doubles 170 - 200zł, 2 quads
240 - 260zł). 36 dorm beds 50-65zł per person. AGW
Mini Hotelik A-3, Al. Niepodległości 8a (entrance
from ul. Taylora), tel. 061 633 14 16, fax 061 633
18 60, bartlomiej.baginski@wp.pl, www.trans-tor.
poznan.pl. Not much chance of finding English spoken
here, though sign language is always enough to get a
place at one of the best budget deals in town. Spotless
rooms occupy the top floor of a residential building, and
though some share bathroom facilities the small scale
of this operation guarantees queues for your morning
shower are unlikely. Rooms come with TV and furniture
that is kept religiously scrubbed. If you’re returning late
you’ll need to buzzed in by a member of staff. Q 11
rooms (2 singles 64 - 118zł, 5 doubles 128 - 160zł, 3
triples 193 - 225zł, 1 apartment 160 - 224zł). No breakfast served. G
Naramowice ul. Naramowicka 150 (Stare MiastoNaramowice), tel. 061 822 75 43, fax 061 820
27 81, hotel@naramowice.pl, w w w.naramowice.
pl. An ugl y concrete building that wouldn’t be out of
place on a council estate hides a per fectly acceptable
interior. The rooms are plain but smar t, and although
they won’t fuel the creative poet inside of you, they offer moderate comfor t and fair value. Way in the nor th
of the city. Q 54 rooms (48 singles 160 - 320zł, 48
doubles 180 - 350zł, 6 suites 210 - 400zł). Breakfast
20zł. HALKW hh
poznan.inyourpocket.com
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
31
32
WHERE TO STAY
Poznań on the cheap
Out of town
Are you the sort of person who hopes to supplement the
Friday funds with a desperate search under the sofa?
There’s certainly no shame in admitting so, the global
financial crisis has left everyman and his dog wearing
sackcloth and eating porridge. Fortunately you’re in Poznan,
and out here a bit of belt tightening doesn’t necessarily
mean having to sacrifice your finer vices. This is after all a
city of students, and as such you’ll find a town well geared
to dealing with lazy scroungers. Finding food for buttons
shouldn’t present a problem, and getting a proper feed
is even possible in the old town square – try for instance
Spagheteria, or why not keep your cabbage quotient up
with a visit to Sphinx. Better still, turn the corner and enter Chlopskie Jadlo; it’s not quite gourmet but the Polish
recipes here are ideal on a cold day, and more importantly
served in portions that could feed an elephant. If the tastebuds are hankering for something a little more exotic than
meat and veg then why not check out Reeta’s, a super
Indian venue with curries that leave you feeling nuked. A
rollicking night out is even easier to find, just follow anyone
carrying a pile of books. The chances are they’ll be walking to ul. Taczaka, a student ghetto with close on a dozen
cheap pubs to vie for your custom. Kieslice aside, most are
rubbish, but you’ll find a large percentage of the clientele
both drunk and female – we like that combination, and
so should you. If the thought of straying out the old town
makes you giddy then go no further than Deja Vu, a vast
pub that fills throughout the week with pissed brainboxes.
There’s frequent deals on cut-price lager, but you won’t find
any cheaper than in IQ where booze sinks to a remarkable
2zl a pint at some points of the week.
44 81, fax 061 832 42 30, info@batory.poznan.pl, www.
batory.poznan.pl. A modern exterior, and an interior loosely
inspired by a scrapped Atlantic liner called the Batory - bits
and pieces from the ship decorate the lobby and bar. Rooms
are comfortable and reasonably plush. With a lively interpretation of the words ‘located near the centre,’ getting to Batory
involves either a taxi or taking a tram to the end of the line
before hopping onto a bus for two stops. Q20 rooms (19
singles 264 - 500zł, 17 doubles 320 - 520zł, 1 apartment
650 - 800zł). PTHAGKW hhh
As far as accommodation goes budget travellers are
positively spoiled compared to a couple of years ago.
Back in those times a cheap bed usually came with fleas,
curfew and some challenging smells. Now there’s three
hostels to pick from, and they’re all as clean as a picked
rib. If mixing with backpackers sounds like hell then go
a rung above, and check into the Mini-Hotelik. You won’t
find much in the way of English spoken, nor any happy
faces as you get buzzed through at five in the morning, but
that’s a price worth paying to avoid college frat boys or
dreadlocked monsters. When it comes to spending your
time, then you can do so usefully by picking up a Poznan
City Card from tourist information. Not only will this buy
the privilege to travel on public transport, it also wins you
cut price – or in some cases free – admission to a healthy
list of museums. More cunning savings are available by
exploration of our What to See section – check out the
museum listings, most will open for free at least once a
week, usually Saturday.
Green Hotel ul. Jeziorna 1a, Komorniki, tel. 061 810
Batory ul. Leszczyńska 7-13 (Grunwald), tel. 061 832
Delicja ul. Mostowa 22, Oborniki Wielkopolskie, tel. 061
296 22 11, fax 061 296 15 26, delicja@delicja.eu, www.
delicja.emeteor.pl. A 20km drive from Poznań city centre,
Delicja features rooms decorated with prissy flowery patterns
and standard hotel fittings such as satellite TV and air-con.
Downstairs on-site facilities include fitness centre, sauna
and conference room. Q27 rooms (27 singles 160 - 116zł,
9 doubles 220zł). PHAUFGDW hhh
PERSONAL COMPUTER WITH COMPLIMENTARY )NTERNET ACCESS
AND FLAT SCREEN ,#$ IN EVERY 'UEST ROOM
ELEGANT RESTAURANT s 2OSSO .ERO 2ISTORANTE AND BAR
Dwór w Podstolicach (Podstolice Manor House)
FULLY EQUIPPED AIR CONDITIONED CONFERENCEBANQUET ROOMS
BLACK OUT CAPABILITY WIRELESS )NTERNET ACCESS
ul. Kasztanowa 50, Podstolice, tel. 061 438 68 08, fax
061 438 68 92, dwor@podstolice.pl, www.podstolice.
pl. Indulge yourself at this restored 19th century manor
house. Set in an old park the final effect is over-the-top, and
the glut of antiques and peacocks pose an obstacle course
in themselves. Activities include shooting, driving range and
banisters for kids to slide down. Period furnishings, oil paintings and other lavish antique trappings decorate the interior.
Q15 rooms (14 singles 200 - 595zł, 13 doubles 270 - 660zł,
1 apartment 370 - 760zł). HARLGK
UNDERGROUND GARAGE AND CAR PARK
EXCELLENT LOCATION WITH EASY ACCESS TO THE CITY CENTRE AND ALL
HIGHWAY CONNECTIONS
EXCLUSIVELY
FOR OUR 'UESTS s FREE OF CHARGE
7%,,.%33 #%.42% s SWIMMING POOL SAUNA
FITNESS CLUB AND JACUZZI
80 75, fax 061 810 81 23, rezerwacja@greenhotel.pl,
www.greenhotel.pl. If you’re looking for accommodation
away from the bright lights then Green Hotel presents a
solid choice. Located in a wooded area 11km from the city
centre, this hotel has a sleek American style, and a list of
facilities as long as your arm. Modern interiors and pleasant
colours. Q44 rooms (40 singles 240 - 649zł, 36 doubles
290 - 699zł, 4 apartments 799 - 1099zł). PTHAUL
GKDCW hhhh
Ossowski ul. Dąbrówki 1, Kobylnica, tel. 061 815 81
00, fax 061 815 81 88, recepcja@hotel-ossowski.com.
pl, www.hotel-ossowski.com.pl. A smart hotel offering
three star standards and accommodation that comes with
satellite TVs perched high in the corners, and smallish bathrooms that positively sparkle. A fitness center with Jacuzzi
and sauna looks set to be added in the not-too-distant future.
Q79 rooms (74 singles 180 - 375zł, 65 doubles 250 - 430zł,
2 triples 330 - 450zł, 2 suites 300 - 550zł, 1 apartment 550
- 900zł). HARUGKW hhh
Pałac Wąsowo ul. Parkowa 1, Kuślin, tel. 061 447
26 13, fax 061 447 26 19, wasowo@wasowo.pl, www.
wasowo.pl. Pick between staying in a baroque mansion, a
neo-gothic palace or a rustic-themed gardener’s cottage. The
Wąsowo complex is well off the radar - 40km from Poznań but you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere in Poland which
can boast the same level of history and heritage. Each room
is furnished in individual style, offering a good balance of
antiques and modern gadgets. Indoor swimming pool, wine
cellar, billiard room and horse-drawn carts are just a few of
the distractions at your disposal. Q60 rooms (51 singles
160 - 300zł, 51 doubles 220 - 390zł, 9 apartments 450 700zł). THAUKDCW hhhh
Poznań In Your Pocket
COMFORTABLE AIR CONDITIONED ROOMS WITH PRIVATE BATH SATELLITE
46 INCLUDING #ANAL
DIRECT TELEPHONE TEACOFFEE MAKING
FACILITIES AND REFRESHMENTS
poznan.inyourpocket.com
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HOTELS 34
RESTAURANTS
Quick Eats
Ali Baba B-1, Pl. Ratajskiego 10, tel. 061 853 32 71,
www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A decent sit-down venture with the
obligatory hunk of meat spinning on a skewer, and crowd of
post-club fatalities getting chili sauce down their trousers. Pics
of the middle east brighten the pastel coloured interior and the
late night snacks rate highly with anyone whose broken the
eight pint limit. Q Open 24hrs. (17-30zł). PS
Canappka B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 37, tel. 061 852 35
14, www.canappka.pl. Cheap and cheery sandwich stop
that could be the answer if you’re doing lunch on the run.
Think of it as a poor man’s Subway. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00,
Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (9-13zł). PAEGS
KFC E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1 (Poznan Railway Station),
tel. 061 633 37 77, www.kfc.pl. If you need food but
you’re at the train station then you’ve got two choices - food
poisoning or KFC. We’ve tried both, and recommend the
latter. A TV screen inside informs patrons of departures
and delays, and there’s a small hatchway facing one of the
platforms if you prefer to share dinner with the tramps and
pigeons.QOpen 05:00 - 04:00. (11-30zł). PTAS
McDonald’s B-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19, tel. 061
856 00 60, www.mcdonalds.pl. He might look like a
weird sex pest, but you’ve got to hand Ronald McDonald
his dues; the man knows how to make a good cheeseburger. Sometimes, that’s all that counts. Also on ul.
Głogowska 14 (E-4).Q Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 02:00. PTAUGSW
Roti C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15, tel. 061 851 68 87. Poznan’s
best kebab comes tightly packed in a tortilla and served up
by an enthusiastic boy clearly under the impression that
working in an all night kebab shop is every bit as good as
being an astronaut. Q Open 24hrs. (6-18zł). PGS
RESTAURANTS
Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre
of commerce but its restaurant scene is still very much
in its infancy. You will find a scattering of world-class
restaurants, but you’re ethnic options are limited in both
number and quality. The opening hours we list are flexible,
and most will stay open past their closing times if customers are still lingering. The prices we list in brackets denote
the cost of the cheapest and dearest dish on the menu. As
with most of the city’s bars and clubs, restaurants tend to
remain open past their official closing times if customers
are lingering.
SomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton
Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.
pl/poznan. It’s amazing what a good burger can do to
raise the spirits, and they don’t get any better than the
one in Someplace Else. This Sheraton based bar/eatery
gets the food right every time, and remains your only hope
for authentic Tex Mex dining in Poznan. The diner design
is right out of road trip America, and is a great backdrop
for ties-off, after office chow. Q Open 17:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (24-93zł).
PTAUEXSW
American
Chinese
Rodeo Drive C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel.
Azalia B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. 061 853 24 42,
www.azalia.poznan.pl. Size counts in Azalia, a venue with
an infinite menu and a floor plan that could fit a factory. The
chow won’t wow, with the dishes usually eclipsed by an interior soaked and drowned in dragons and lanterns. QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. (15-40zł). PTAXS
061 853 72 48, www.rodeodrive.pl. Aspiring rednecks
could do a lot worse than showing up to Rodeo Drive, a spacey
venue which combines bare bricks, steel pipes and skylights
with saloon-style touches like cacti, cattle horns and hussies
in cowgal hats. The menu includes wings and ribs, but most
people are here for the steaks - the best in town. There’s a
few to choose from, with the filet mignon winning our vote
every time; pair it up with bacon branded beans and some
loaded jacket potatoes.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. (20-70zł). PTAUXSW
Rooster C-2, Stary Rynek 49, tel. 061 853 40 65, www.
rooster.pl. Rooster is where burgers meet Baywatch; a sort of
TGI Tits if you please. The food is fine, nothing more challenging
than ribs and wings served up in interiors sprinkled with midWest number plates and telegraph poles. People come here for
the waitresses - tanorexic bombshells with plenty of bits and
boobs sticking out of lycra uniform. QOpen 11.00 - 24.00,
Fri, Sat 11.00 - 01.00. (16-40zł). TAUXS
Sioux City D-2, Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93 38,
Sioux City D-2, Stary Rynek 68, tel. 061 852 93 38,
www.sioux.com.pl. A Wild West eatery with a Clint Eastwood design and a permanent crowd of cheerful diners.
God knows what they’ve got to be happy about, the food
here is desperate stuff, and includes pizzas that taste of
cardboard and ‘ranch food’ buried in beetroot. The sign
outside reckons this to be a steak house, though with just
one bovine on the menu that’s a playground exaggeration.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (19-140zł).
PTAIEBXSW
Spagetheria C-2, Stary Rynek 76, tel. 061 852
Sioux Classic D-2, Stary Rynek 93, tel. 061 851 62
86, www.sioux.com.pl. Spaghetti Western décor and staff
dressed as cowboys and injuns lend a bit of a theme park
atmosphere to this place, and the food is just what you’d
expect coming from chefs better suited to operating a scarey
ride. The wagon and wig wam style looks great, but settle
down for something other than beer and you’ll find yourself a
long way from Texas. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 01:00. (18-99zł). PTJAXS
www.sioux.com.pl. They’re open pretty much round the
clock, though in truth no-one comes here until they’ve just
put in a nightshift on a local dance floor. It’s during witching
hours you’ll find a line of post-pub party people swaying in
unison outside, as they wait for t-shirted cooks to weave
their magic on burgers, sandwiches and kebabs. All three
look and taste the same, and come bulked out with gherkins, onions, cabbage and sauce.Q 24hrs. (7-11zł). S
32 85, www.avanti.poznan.pl. A no-frills sustenance
solution that possibly rates as the best bargain you’ll
find on the Rynek. The interiors are completely basic,
but the food does the talking here, with a variety of very
decent spaghetti combos to choose from. Q Open
09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(4-14zł). PT JUGS
Sphinx A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. 061 852 07
02, www.sphinx.poznan.pl. The Sphinx chain have
cornered the quick and simple, budget dinner market,
with fans ranging from an early twenties set to dreamy
couples making their collective funds stretch. The menu
does not challenge the imagination and is a vast list of
burgers, kebabs and pizzas. Note that only the outlet on
Św. Marcin has extended opening hours from Wednesday
through to Saturday.QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Mon, Tue,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (19-65zł). PTAXSW
Poznań In Your Pocket
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Smoking ban
L Guarded parking
I Fireplace
6 Animal friendly
R Internet
W Wi-Fi
V Home delivery
X Smoking section
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Bambus D-2, Stary Rynek 64/65, tel. 061 853 06 58.
Jack-of-all-trades, master of none. The Chinese food here is
Uncle Ben standard, while the Italian… well, they had run out
by the time we placed our order. What kind of restaurant runs
out of food you may ask? The kind which has fruit machines
in the corners, and leather jacketed apes grunting threats
down phones. Further investigations concluded after a quick
glance at the scatological surprise in the toilet.QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (23-48zł). T JAUGS
Pekin B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 33, tel. 061 852 63 70, www.
pekin.pl. Relive the age of Bruce Lee in this vivid riot of
dragons, pagodas and hanging lanterns. With Bambus
on skid row Pekin have stepped in and nicked the title
of Best Chinese. A prodigious menu covers pretty much
anything ever served in a Chinese restaurant, and the duck
dishes are always a hit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (20-49zł).
PTAUXS
Zielony Smok (The Green Dragon) B-1, ul. 23 Lutego
7, tel. 061 851 35 95. Apparently they serve Vietnamese
and Chinese food but we were stuck to find anything resembling either. Walk past, swiftly.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun
12:00 - 18:00. (14-33zł). PAGS
Fine dining
Bażanciarnia C-2, Stary Rynek 94, tel. 061 855 33 59,
www.bazanciarnia.pl. The work of celebrity restaurateur
Magda Gessler Bazanciarnia is the first, last and only choice
if you’re looking for a meal befitting a Tsar. The interior is a
bit country toff meets Laura Ashley, with lots of fruit, flowers
and chandeliers to clatter into, while the menu is everything
you’d find on a forest floor after a blindfolded squire has fired
off a few rounds; venison, lamb, boar, as well as the house
specialty, pheasant marinated in orange juice.QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (46-250zł). PTAIXSW
Delicja B-2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel. 061 852 11 28, www.
delicja.eu. Poznań fine dining doesn’t get better than this.
Winner of countless accolades, Delicja serves a combo of
French, Italian and Polish recipes including superb pieces
of cookling such as roast lamb and beef sirloin. This
definitely falls at the upper end of the food chain, and the
interior comes filled with silver candleholders, immaculate
linen and classical music. As soon as the sun comes out,
take advantage of one of the better gardens in town.
QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (48-145zł). PT
AUEGSW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
35
36
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Dom Vikingów C-2, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71
53, www.domvikingow.pl. The Viking’s House isn’t half as
primitive as it sounds. On the contrary, this Danish owned
spot has a crisp urban look and a client base that at times
feels overwhelmingly cashed-up and foreign. And yes, while
there are Danish dishes on show, there’s plenty of alternative options for the non-Scandic visitor. There’s a few places
claiming Poznan’s best steak, and the one in DV is certainly
up there on the leader board.QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (3695zł). PTASW
Figaro C-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. 061 852 08 16, www.
figaro.poznan.pl. Romantic repasts and serious business
dinners take place amongst the starched tablecloths and
vases of flowers. Prices are steep, but well within the spending
power of most western visitors. Diners can choose from a
large list of pasta, beef tenderloin and veal and an expansive
wine list. What Figaro is famous for though is their fish menu,
reputed to be the best in the city. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 13:00 - 17:00. (25-57zł). PTAS
Le Palais du Jardin C-2, Stary Rynek 37, tel. 061 665
85 85, www.lepalais.poznan.pl. Nouvelle cuisine in a
modern, cream coloured setting. The menu is considered one
of the best in the city, and is comprised of dishes like monk
fish and lamb. There’s also an impressive wine list to gargle
through, and staff far removed from the utter nincompoops
employed in some of the nearby venues.QOpen 12:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (54-99zł). PTAXSW
Nalewka C-2, Stary Rynek 2 (Waga Miejska), tel. 061
853 21 24, www.nalewka.pl. First, an explanation of the
name; Nalewki are traditional fruit and herbal vodkas, made
according to arcane recipes handed through the mists of
time. You’ll find several in here, from green walnut to pepper
with honey, and they go perfectly with the top standard food.
The menu, printed on newspaper sheets, involves European
and Polish dishes, and includes a very pleasing chicken in
cranberry. Save circling the square numerous times, this place
isn’t on the periphery, rather smack bang next to the town
hall.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (45-70zł). TJAS
Panorama K-4, ul. Baraniaka 77 (HP Park Hotel), tel.
061 874 11 56, www.hotelepark.pl. Views of Lake Malta
are the main selling point here, and come sunset it really does
get quite romantic. An inoffensive, play-it-safe interior reflects
the hotel location, but the chefs do well in creating good value
dinners that really do merit the taxi trek out here. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (45-61zł). PT AUXSW
Zagroda Bamberska E-2, ul. Kościelna 43, tel. 061
842 77 90, www.zagrodabamberska.pl. Yes it’s in a hotel,
but this is no three star, pastel colour, logo clad, looks-likea-private-hospital sort of place. Okay, the hotel is three star,
but Zagroda Bamberska has enough class and character to
be awarded a bracket of its own. So too the restaurant, a
cacophonous cross-timbered hall in which diners get to try
dishes cooked to original Bamberg recipes. QOpen 16:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (39-72zł). TAUESW
French
Patio D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 855 10 27, www.
patio-poznan.pl. A pretty old town spot that brings Provence
to your doorstep. The name alludes to the interior, which is all
patio furnishings, droopy plants and even a mock fountain set
in the corner. The crepes are overpriced and lack any ooh la
la, but the rest of the menu seems to elicit positive enough
reaction - the salmon steak is lovely. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(15-49zł). PAEXSW
Poznań In Your Pocket
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Fusion
Fusion Restaurant E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton
Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.
pl/poznan. Top class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiece
restaurant. Chic and sexy this is designer dining the way it’s
meant to be with inventive dishes like chicken marinated in
coconut milk appearing from out of the open kitchen. Floor to
ceiling windows allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the
proletariat scurrying to work. Above average prices, but with
the quality to warrant the indulgence. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 18:00. (34-78zł).
PTAUIEXSW
Pracownia D-2, ul. Woźna 17, tel. 0 508 13 16 64. A
smooth looker of a venue with lots of dark woods, clever
lighting and interesting contraptions dangling from the ceiling.
The menu is fusion inspired, with bountiful choices for our
vegetarian associates, and this long, narrow newbie looks set
to become our personal winter winner. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (16-35zł). TAXSW
Greek
NEW
Artemis C-1, ul. Wroniecka 21, tel. 0618 48 43 16.
Peering through the window and prospective diners will be
left staring at rows of empty seats. Persevere. Insist on sitting downstairs, in the vaulted brick cellar, before perusing
a classic menu touting all the lamb and grilled goodies you
can handle. It’s not life changing, but we like it. You probably
will too.
Pireus E-4, ul. Głogowska 35, tel. 061 866 51 27, www.
pireus.poznan.pl. A typical caricature of the Greek restaurant
abroad. Plaster statues and Doric pillars fill the compact
venue, and the small but straight-forward menu holds all the
usual suspects: gyros, kalamari and souvlaki. Industrious
service and a casual atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(24-60zł). TAXS
Tawerna Mykonos B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. 061
853 34 36, www.tawerna-mykonos.com.pl. Relive your
Mediterranean summer at this Greek owned joint. Blue and
white interiors come adorned with pics of Greek beach
scenes and scale models of fishing vessels while the menu
is a romp through classics like souvlaki and lamb served with
mint sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(19-48zł). PTAESW
Indian
Buddha Bar C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10 (enter from ul.
Sieroca), tel. 061 852 33 99, www.buddhabar-poznan.
pl. At last, Poznan gets the Indian restaurant it deserves.
Accessed by a red carpet this place looks like it cost a
fortune, with every inch covered with wood-carved panels,
gold braided drapes and intricate ironwork. Presiding over
it all, a rather smarmy looking giant Buddha. He’s got good
reason to be smiling, the butter chicken here is outstanding,
and the madras every bit as hot as a petrol bomb. The only
problem here is the size; this place is vast, making dining
here a ghostly experience.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (35-50zł).
PTAUS
www.inyourpocket.com
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
37
38
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
NEW
Reeta’s Haveli G-4, ul. Ratajczaka 23, tel. 061 853 47
77. These are great times we live in; after years spent waiting
for a decent Indian Poznan now boasts two. So, how does this
newbie weigh up against Buddha? Very well is your answer.
The chicken tikka masala warrants a fan club of its own, and
it’s not unlikely you’ll be ordering extra naan to mop up every
last lick of sauce. But what this place really gets right is the
atmosphere; Buddha feels haunted at times, so acute is the
lack of custom, Reeta’s on other hand positively crackles with
conversation. It looks the part as well, with figures of Ganesh
and colonial era sofas set to a voluptuous scarlet background.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-27zł). PTAEXS
Taj India J-4, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. 061 876 62 49,
www.taj-india.pl. How can one place be this bad? The
curry here looks and tastes like something that fell out of
your bottom, and you can bet your last zlotlet on your guts
gargling within minutes. Could things get any worse? Course
they can. Your suffering will be extended by at least twenty
minutes thanks to the customary wait for a taxi - thank god
for the bushes outside. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (14-42zł).
TAUGSW
International
Alexander B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. 061 852 28 12,
Habana is not only a restaurant but also a place
where you can have a business lunch, eat supper with
friends or even have a romantic evening.
We welcome guests to spend their free time
in our art deco interiors.
Monday to Friday we serve a three course lunch
for 29 zł.
Our place is perfect for guests looking to have a
few drinks with friends or a chat at the bar. Fridays
and Saturdays feature live music or DJ sets from our
friends at City Inside art project.
We organize banquets for 250 standing or 120 sitting
places. We guarantee excellent flavours, a great
atmosphere and discrete staff.
Come to a place full of positive energy.
We invite you to musical weekends under the slogan
‘Music is my life’ in Habana Club & Restaurant,
every Friday and Satursday starting at 9:00 pm.
Let the music kidnap you.
HABANA RESTAURANT
Ul Paderewskiego 10, 61-770 Poznań
tel. 61 8530 222
www.habanarestaurant.pl
reservation: a.gorny@habanarestaurant.pl
Poznań In Your Pocket
www.alexander.poznan.pl. A long standing favourite with
our staff Alexander straddles that no-man’s land between
Stary Browar and the old town. Located on a steep hill this
Mediterranean themed spot sits its diners amid twisting vines
and cherubic figures, lending something of a ‘Cupid Goes
Cooking’ tone to your meal. The lamb is faultless, and the
atmosphere high class and formal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (32-96zł). PTAUXSW
Ali Baba C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 11, tel. 061 853 29 83,
www.alibaba.poznet.pl. A cave-like interior with multicoloured lamps hanging from the ceilings and a menu that is
not too dissimilar - but far more enjoyable - to Sphinx; lusty
helpings of meat, pizzas and sandwiches with grilled fillings. A
set of hookah pipes planted by the wall complete the Arabian
Nights theme.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20-50zł). PTAXS
Bee Jay’s C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15, www.
beejays.pl. Permanently docked in the shadow of the old town
hall Beejay’s features a nutty design (quarrying explosives, a
model galleon) as well as a stained glass window depicting a
Mexican, Indian and Scotsman. If that sounds like the start of
a bad joke it most certainly isn’t - it’s the start of a bad meal.
The menu is the definition of diverse, though the results aren’t
so much varied as plain poor. The chef here is a gentleman of
shortcuts; the curry comes from a tin and the Mexican salsa is
actually ketchup - at these prices, that’s inexcusable.QOpen
11:00 - 23:30. (20-96zł). PTJAUSW
Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel.
061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. You might be here with
the lads, in which case point your nose to the left, order some
beer snacks and get stuck into their range of microbrews.
Alternately, sophisticates are going to be picking the right
door, through which they’ll find a cream dining room where
dapper business types dine alongside gushing personal assistants dressed like Lois Lane. The menu is a bit of a juggling
act, with influences from the Mediterranean, Germany and
Poland, but the results hit double six every time. Save space
for dessert - the choccy buns are a death by chocolate affair,
and feel pleasingly sinful.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (18-58zł).
PTJASW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Corcovado D-1, ul. Wroniecka 16, tel. 061 663 63 34,
www.corcovado.pl. While Corcovado occupies the middle
ground between café and restaurant, the owners say it leans
slightly more toward the restaurant end of the scale. Sure
enough, the menu is comprised of rather upscale European
dishes that wouldn’t be out of place in a more formal spot.
But a café atmosphere prevails: brick walls adorned with
artsy black-and-whites, a mellow atmosphere, and a slightly
bohemian middle-class crowd. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Sun
13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (24-62zł). TJAUS
Coxy’s D-2, ul. Woźna 11, tel. 061 221 97 74. Touted as
a challenger to Dom Vikingow’s Sports Bar the story of Coxy’s
is one of missed opportunity. There is an open kitchen, but the
only time the lights go on are when a teenage chef shuffles in
from a fag break to dunk some chips into the fryer. Indeed, what
should be a lively stage of leaping flames and flowery curses
is instead a darkened corner of an even darker pub. Even more
disappointing are the steaks; every bit as tasty as a football
boot. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. (10-43zł). TAESW
Dark Restaurant D-2, ul. Garbary 48, tel. 061 852 91 70,
www.darkrestaurant.pl. Here’s a place with a great gimmick - it’s
pitch black. The theory behind this is simple; tell the waiter how
many courses you plan on having, before being shepherded into the
darkness by the staff (they’re equipped with night vision goggles,
so abandon any thoughts of doing a runner). The contents of the
meal remain a mystery until the point of departure, at which point
diners have the opportunity to have a natter with the chef.QOpen
12:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (50-90zł). PTAGS
Deserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061 851 51
17. On the one side a manly pub with football scarves and lots
of lads, on the right hand side a pleasant restaurant with white
on white colours, high-backed chairs and a constant stream
poznan.inyourpocket.com
of sightseers taking time out from the rigors of getting lost.
The menu is a standard European effort with few surprises to
be found. Expect a rundown of mainstay dishes like chicken
breast and beef fillet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (22-55zł). PTAGS
Habana C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 061 853 02 22,
www.habanarestaurant.pl. A sublime space that’s certainly
a contender for Poznan’s best looking venue. Filled with swivelly
chairs, marble cladding and shiny surfaces this places certainly
looks the business, while the badly parked sports cars outside
are enough to tell you about the people found inside. The
international menu includes a variety of seafood options, and
somewhat surprisingly, the best pizza we’ve had in Poland.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-120zł). PTASW
Imaret D-2, ul. Wielka 9. Find post-pubbers lining up
outside the window for their traditional before bed kebab,
while inside find a basic room with cut-price furnishings and
a snack bar atmosphere. Popular at all hours, with the reason
being Imaret far exceeds your usual fast food haunts. Grilled
koftas and lamb accompanied by a spicy sauce are just two
options, and the service is leagues ahead of the twits you
usually find carving up your kebab.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00,
Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.
(17-20zł). GS
Le Bistrot G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel.
061 667 12 96. A flashy, sleek cafe/bar/restaurant inside
Stary Browar, and ample proof there’s more to this mall
than shopping. Set inside a shining cream interior Le Bistrot
offers up a super selection of antipasti snacks and modern
Mediterranean dishes served to a smart crowd laid down
with bags with designer names. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. (21-36zł). PTAUGS
March - June 2009
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40
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Lizard King C-2, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04 72,
We warmly invite you to our restaurants, which guarantee
excellent cuisine and serve a rich and varied menu.
Bistro Rzymianka
www.lizardking.pl. Ringside views of the Rynek are one of
the attractions of Lizard King, an old timer that unlike the rocks
stars it celebrates looks like it’ll never die. Packed at all hours
this place pays reverence to Doors, Stones, Beatles and Pistols,
and is pretty much a cut price version of Hard Rock. The menu is
burgers, steaks and other no-shockers, and seems to go down
well with a 20s crowd yet to discover chips don’t constitute haute
cuisine. Dodgy cover bands get wheeled out with shocking regularity, and do much to prove how easily pleased the natives can
be.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (17-50zł). PAESW
Lokanta C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061
859 64 60. Found on the top floor of Stary Browar Shopping Mall,
Lokanta proves one of the highlights of the food court. Although in
direct competition with the next-door Sphinx, this lunch-on-the-run
option fares well by cooking a range of quality kebabs and kofta.
Expect to be battling for seats with hundreds of other shoppers,
so bring a big stick to shoo them away. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (18-63zł). PTAUXSW
NEW
Madagaskar H-3, ul. Wielka 7, tel. 061 852 35 24,
Restauracja de Rome
al. K. Marcinkowskiego 22, 61-827 Poznan
tel. + 48 61 852 81 21, restauracja@rzymski.pl
www.hotelrzymski.pl
TUSCAN
CUISINE
Excellent meats
are our chefís speciality!
Admirers of delicious flavours
are highly welcome.
www.restauracjamadagaskar.pl. Safari print seats mingle
with billowing sheets inside this white, cave-like space. It looks
curious enough, treading a nervous line between kitsch and
class, and the food is nothing less than global in spirit. T-bone
steak, chicken masala and ‘Poznan duck’ give an idea of what
to expect, and for the most part the dishes are well executed
and attractively presented. Definitely one to look into. QOpen
12:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:00. PAXS
Mood C-3, ul. Półwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30, www.
moodclub.pl. Talk about a revamp, this place has gone from
looking like a student common room to a formal dining space
decorated with alarming floral patterns. The menu includes
some highly reasonable lunch deals, as well as pricey evening
options such as lamb in rosemary and rabbit.QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (16120zł). PTASW
Mosaica G-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. 061 667 80 00, www.
mosaica.pl. Celebrating their first birthday this February
the chaps at Mosaica have plenty to celebrate. This has
emerged as one of the top eateries in town, with a modern
international menu which includes Spanish tapas and pan
Asian offerings. Of note is the sorbet, which comes prepared
in front of your eyes. As the name suggests, mosaics are
the central decorative theme here, and the interior comes
topped off with a 1925 piano imported from Berlin - hearing
it in action is worth the trip in itself.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(29-86zł). PTAUEBXSW
Papavero B-1, ul. 3 Maja 46, tel. 061 853 24 82,
www.papavero.poznan.pl. It’s all very Day of the Triffids
in Papavero, a lovely little restaurant that could easily be
mistaken for an overgrown garden. Peer beyond the leaves
and the cherubs and one finds a rather fine restaurant, with
an American sirloin that does just enough to distract diners
from engaging in daring flower theft.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (28-92zł). PTAXSW
Pieprz i Wanilia C-2, ul. Murna 3a, tel. 061 851 86 64,
www.pieprzwanilia.pl. Formerly known as Piwnica Murna
this place has seen changes aplenty. The daggers and antlers
have gone, replaced by light, bright furnishing, timber touches
and a menu that encompasses recipes from around Europe.
The sirloin in devil sauce proves to be one of the tastiest slices
of animal flesh one could wish for. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(12-42zł). PTAXSW
Poznań In Your Pocket
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Portofino D-1, ul. Żydowska 26/4, tel. 061 852 48 98,
www.portofino.eu.pl. Right on the corner of Żydowska, this
class act comes with powder blue colours and an interior
that whisks you to the shores of the Mediterranean. It
looks great, and the menu does the rest with some cracking modern European cooking that warrants repeat visits.
QOpen 15:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 24:00. (10-40zł).
TAXS
Restauracja Zapadnia E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 5, tel.
061 848 48 85 ext. 202. In the cellar of the renovated Nowy
Teatr, Zapadnia looks and feels like an upmarket restaurant,
with only the prices suggesting otherwise. Sporting a flashy
bar, elegant seating and a clientele of culture creatures this
place is a pleasing surprise, with an inoffensive menu of
generic European offerings.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15-22zł).
PTAUGSW
Restaurant de Rome C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego
22 (Rzymski Hotel), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl. Don’t let the name fool you, the menu here is
Polish and European with standards like zurek and pierogi
alongside a few game dishes. It’s right at the back of a three
star hotel, with no windows and a tame interior that proves
instantly forgettable. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. (21-48zł).
PTAUEXSW
Room 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 855
32 24, www.room55.pl. This place would last three
minutes in the capital, but in Poznan a centre location,
Peroni lager, decent wifi connection and English-speaking
staff are enough to elevate a rather run-of-the-mill venue
to heights not necessarily deserved. It’s certainly not
dreadful, but it’s by no means the cutting edge bar or
eater y some of the patrons (or staff) seem to think.
It’s a bar first and foremost, and that’s reflected in the
rather standard quality of food. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (18-140zł).
PTJAUXSW
Rzymianka C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22 (Rzymski
Hotel), tel. 061 852 81 21, www.hotelrzymski.pl.
This bright, informal, cafeteria-style restaurant in the Hotel Rzymski is a popular breakfast spot. The continental
breakfast is a fair deal and they also do omelettes and
sausages from dawn. Lunch and dinner options include
g yros, cu tlets, fried salmon, grilled pork, ribs, pasta
and salads. The menu has crystal-clear colour photos
of the dishes so you know exactly what you`re getting.
Q Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (19-48zł).
PTAUXSW
Sól i Pieprz (Salt and Pepper) B-2, ul. Garncarska 2,
tel. 0 781 95 03 95, www.solipieprz.com.pl. A completely
naff name, but in the restaurant trade the buck stops with
the food and there’s no faulting the stuff that appears on the
plate in front of you. On the menu find a series of modern
Polish dishes - including super pierogi - served inside a pleasant environment which never comes close to outshining the
chef. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (15-70zł).
AIXSW
Sonata C-2, ul. Wrocławska 14, tel. 061 852 27
01, www.restauracjasonata.pl. A modern European
restaurant specialising in exotic creations like grilled
salmon in mustard sauce. Th e main dining room is
pleasant and unexciting, but downstairs you’ll find an
atmospheric brick vault with a piano and a fireplace.
Q Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (25-52zł).
PTJAIEX
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
41
42
RESTAURANTS
Polish Food
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world
of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the following to the test:
Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before
a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,
but it works like a miracle any day, especially an arctic
one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polish
restaurant worth its salt should give you lashings of this
prior to your meal. You only need ask.
Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Poland’s two signature
soups; żurek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes
floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dumplings thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when
eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.
RESTAURANTS
U Mnie Czy u Ciebie A-2, ul. Gwarna 3, tel. 061 852
58 82, www.umnieczyuciebie.pl. Lots of bare brick, white
walls and sepia photos give this place a lifestyle mag look,
and its already done a fair job on roping the customers
in. The menu - comprising of salads, snacks and mains
like chicken fillet - isn’t the most adventurous you’ll find,
but that’s by no means a handicap; what they do, they do
well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 11:00 - 21:30. (10-50zł).
PTABSW
Wejście Obok C-1, ul. Zamkowa 4, tel. 061 850
14 90, www.wejscieobok.pl. A great little find, and
one that’s fitted with the sort of country cottage interior
you’d expect in a fairy tale. Most people use this as a
café, and there’s few better ways to lose a day than by
turning up here with a clever sounding book. However,
there is reason to linger into the night, and that’s the
presence of a rather decent menu that includes salads,
pasta and roast beef. Q Open 14:00 - 23:00. (9-48zł).
PTAUXSW
Bigos: You’ll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters
stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut
before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by default.
Italian
Gołąbki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion
and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urban
myth claims Poland’s King Kazimierz fed his army gołąbki
before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the
Teutonic Order. The unlikely victory was attributed to the
hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.
prices, a friendly welcome - sometimes by Luigi himself - and
excellent pizza are enough to earn this restaurant its stripes.
Actually, calling this place a restaurant is a little fanciful. This
is more of a foggy trattoria, and mostly frequented by the
students who spill out of the bars opposite.QOpen 12:00
- 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (8-40zł).
PTJGS
Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Poland you’ll find several varieties made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for including Krakowska, a Kraków specialty which uses pepper and
garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with
carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped
sausage. Kiełbasa was also the nickname of one of Poland’s
most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.
Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionally filled with meat,
cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionally find
maverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.
Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired
with lashings of sour cream. Again, all your traditional
folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if
not you have every right to raise a few questions in the
direction of the kitchen.
Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale
baguette, pour melted cheese on it and then cover it with
mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle. Best
eaten when absolutely plastered. Where to buy it: various
fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.
Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than
a good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being a
must if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole you
have visited their country.
Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,
in this case pig’s blood mixed with groats, and is generally
served fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is not
served in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dish
is Czernina, a soup made of duck’s blood mixed with poultry
broth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was the
dish served by the parents of young women to her suitors as a
sign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.
Poznań In Your Pocket
Da Luigi D-2, ul. Woźna 1, tel. 061 851 73 11. Low, low
Donatello E-3, ul. Grunwaldzka 29c, tel. 061 865
32 99, w w w.piz za.wlkp.pl. A customar y trat toria
décor of dried flowers and brickwork doesn’t do justice
to what rates as some as the best pizza in Poznań.
Flawless cooking and budget prices account for a constant buzz of people. Q Open 13:00 - 22:00. (25-50zł).
PTAUIXS
Fidelio H-3, ul. Garbary 50, tel. 061 852 67 94, www.
fidelioristorante.pl. A Venetian style restaurant where it
appears Valentines Day never dies. Fresh pasta, seafood
and pizza are part of the repertoire, and though it’s not half
as fab as when it first opened, Fidelio is still good enough to
attract a stream of local Romeo’s bidding to bed their latest
Julia. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (18-240zł). PTAXS
Girasole D-1, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. 061 851 37 29.
Easily overlooked on account of their end-of-old town
location, though that doesn’t mean you should. Simple
but stylish, decorations include a wooden fittings, tiled
floors and vases of cheerful flowers, and the menu hits the
spot each time with homemade pastas and substantials
like pork fillet with oranges. Liberal prices leave plenty of
change for the wine. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (27-45zł).
TAGBSW
La Scala C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7, tel. 061 853 04 89, www.
lascala.com.pl. One of the priciest meals in Poznań, served
inside a fantasia of shimmery fabrics, stucco mouldings
and murals depicting Venice in its full glory. Furnished with
a flourish not a single inch has been left undecorated, with
the overall effect leaving your eyes spinning in their sockets.
In exchange of a peel of banknotes expect to be treated
to simpering service and some outstanding renditions of
upscale Italian dishes, with the carpaccio worth the visit
alone. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(24-150zł). PTAESW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Massimiliano Ferre B-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. 061 852
81 12, www.mf.art.pl. What sounds like Victoria Beckham’s
beard trimmer is actually a very decent restaurant - not that
you’d guess; togged out in stone cladding and cheapy furniture
M Ferre does bugger all to inspire confidence, and even less
with a menu that reads in Polish only. Not much makes sense
here, least of all the mystery meal called Heffalump, but what
we do know is the food really is smashing value. The pizza
here is superb, and while not quite as good as the one found
in Habana, it is a fair bit cheaper - these things count when
you’re broke.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(11-60zł). PTAEXSW
Polish Brunch
The best recipe
for a lazy Sunday
Milano Ristorante F-2, Al. Wielkopolska 42, tel.
061 852 87 45, www.milano2.pl. An interior of polished
woods, potted palms and crisp linen is the backdrop for
one of the best meals in Poznań. The waiters are immaculate, the cooking creative. The prices can be steep, but
you’re rewarded with excellent lamb, and seafood choices.
Q Open 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 19:00. (29-85zł).
PTAXS
Mollini B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. 061 852 53 33,
www.mollini.pl. Pleasant new Italian venture delightfully
free of cliché pics of Vespa’s, Loren and the Coliseum. In
fact, the only thing you’ll find on the wall is wine, racks
and racks of wine. This place takes itself seriously, and
the menu is a knockout collection of faultless meals. This
could yet become one of the top restaurants in Poznań.
Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. (20-50zł).
PTAEXSW
Piano Bar Restaurant & Cafe C-3, ul. Półwiejska
42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall),, tel. 061 859 65 70,
www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Attached to the side of the Stary
Browar Shopping Mall Piano Bar rates as one of the top options in Poz. The background aesthetics are fantastic, with
cream shades paired with moody lighting and striking art
exhibitions. Although you’ll find all the expected pasta and
meat meals it’s the fish that tends to steal the show here,
which is something of a result in landlocked Poznań.QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (20-75zł). PT AUEW
Pizzeria Rozmaitości C-1, ul. Zamkowa 5, tel. 0 664
653 375. The world turns upside down in Rozmaitosci, a
venue where the staff are fantastic and the food the utter
opposite. It is possible to get takeaway here, but only at times
when the owner has had the foresight to order some boxes;
otherwise take a seat and go to war on leather pizzas with
a set of ultra bendy cutlery. Chances are you’ll find yourself
hiding unwanted slices under the table, in plant pots and
even down your trousers - anywhere but your mouth, in fact.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-69zł).
PARS
Spend this day differently with your folks
Spare yourself the time for preparation
Try the very best from Polish Cuisine
Variety of Fine Traditional Dishes
Every Sunday from 12:30-5:00pm
109 PLN per person
(inclusive of vodka, wine, tea, coffee,
juices, still & sparking water)
Children under 6 – free of charge,
up to 12 – 50% discount.
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Brunch
Fusion Restaurant E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9
(Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.
sheraton.pl/poznan/. You’ve now got a very good reason to get out of bed on Sunday, that being the Sheraton
Sunday Brunch. Adults pay 109zl (half price kids between
6-12, free for anything younger), a price which buys a
lavish buffet spread, free flow booze, live music and a
supervised kids corner. Popular with high rolling Poles, and
expats who’ve just rolled out of bed, you’ll be hard pressed
to find a better use for a Sunday afternoon. Open between
12:30 to 17:00.Q PTAUEBXSW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Fusion Restaurant
Sheraton Poznan Hotel
Bukowska 3/9
Reservations: 0 61 655 2000
gss.poznan@sheraton.com
March - June 2009
43
44
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Sakana Sushi Bar D-2, ul. Wodna 7/1, tel. 061 853
16 39, www.sakana.pl. Five star sushi served inside a pale
vanilla coloured interior equipped with all the necessary rice
paper panels and bamboo extras. Raw fish circles the bar in
small wooden boats, ready to be snapped up by wasp-waisted
fashionista revelling in the chance to showoff deftly executed
chopstick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
(50-80zł). PTJAUGSW
Sushi 77 Noodle Bar D-2, ul. Woźna 10, tel. 061
853 33 86, www.sushi77.com. Poznan has gone mad for
sushi, though judging by the crowd figures you’d have to be
a mental oriental to eat in Sushi 77. No matter what time you
pop by you’re going to find more chance of conversation in a
pet shop - or out in the back where the staff like to lurk. The
sushi is actually not bad in the slightest, but the atmosphere
and staff leave a lot to be desired.QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
(27-49zł). PTAGSW
Open: Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00
Sun: 13:00-22:00
Sushi Bar SAKANA
ul. Wodna 7/1
Poznań
tel. 61 853 16 39
www.sakana.pl
Easter
As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter celebrations seriously; this is no place for the Easter Bunny.
Throughout the period, the visiting foreigner can expect
bars and restaurants to be either empty or closed, and the
streets deserted. In the past housewives were forbidden
from baking bread in the week leading up to Palm Sunday.
To do so would be tempting a poor harvest, and anyone
caught breaking this unofficial law would find themselves
being thrown into the nearest pond. The Poles have lightened up since those days, but this is still a time marked
by tradition and trips to the nearest church.
On the Saturday before Easter Poles will take baskets of
food to church to have them blessed. Good Friday is a
time to paint eggs and bake cakes. Saturday is a day of
sermons and processions. (In medieval times, this was
also apparently an appropriate moment to identify and
punish witches.) Come Easter Sunday, families will gather
around the dinner table and feast on delicacies like white
sausage, bigos and poppy seed cakes. A symbolic lamb,
usually made from dough, is placed on the table to symbolize the resurrection of Christ.
Things take a more lighthearted twist on Easter Monday.
Known as Śmingus Dyngus the day is dominated by public
water fights. Although it’s never pleasant to have a jug
of water thrown over your head, this is an improvement
from the past when young people would be beaten with
sticks from Palm Sunday trees - which apparently brought
luck and strength for the year ahead. In 2009 you’ll find
national holidays designated for April 12 and April 13.
Poznań In Your Pocket
Valpolicella C-2, ul. Wrocławska 7, tel. 061 855 71 91,
www.valpolicella.poznan.pl. This place hasn’t changed since
our debut issue; find 21 types of antipasti, the usual meat and
pasta dishes and wines from Veneto inside a crazily asymmetrical decor painted in cartoon colours. Certainly reliable if nothing
else.QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (25-70zł). PTJAXS
Sushi Sekai C-3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. 061 853 35
33, www.sushisekai.pl. Your sushi sets come covertly
prepared behind the scenes and presented to you inside
a smartly appointed interior that features dark lacquered
woods and square paneled lamps. Great presentation (keep
an eye for the sushi sets laid out onto a wooden bridge
structure), and good flavours, as well as a series of more
substantial main courses such as beef sirloin in teriyaki
sauce served on a hot plate. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (2870zł). PTAXS
Jewish
Cymes D-2, ul. Woźna 2/3, tel. 061 851 66 38, www.
cymespoznan.pl. Time stands still in Cymes, where Poznań’s
once rich Jewish heritage is perfectly preserved in a nostalgic
dining room sprinkled with menorahs, empire furniture and
cloth-capped jars. The menu quite literally tells the story of
Jewish cuisine and bursts with familiar dishes like carp, czulent
and chicken skewers, presented by amiable white-shirted
waiters. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00. (1834zł). TJAS
NEW
Villa Magnolia Ristorante ul. Głogowska 40, tel. 061
865 34 48. A stately venue, and one which makes abundant
use of chandeliers and marble columns. Everything looks Rolls
Royce here, from the immaculate linen to dashing wait staff. For
the most part diners will be parting with around 50 zlots for a main
course here, though high rollers should look into ordering the jumbo
prawns served in oyster sauce - a snip at 189 zeds. An excellent
venue, though whether it will survive in the post-credit crunch world
is open to debate. Q (32-189zł). PTAEXSW
Japanese
Mexican
Czerwone Sombrero B-3, ul. Piekary 17, tel. 061 852
61 01, www.czerwone-sombrero.pl. Granted, it’s better
than The Mexican, but then so is sifting through a hospital bin.
Mexican food hasn’t exported well to Poland, and here’s more
proof. The salsa is tame, the tortillas from a packet and the food
buried under verdant fields of cabbage. It’s two star stuff frankly,
though what makes it palatable is a cracking atmosphere that’s
just perfect for tanking back the tequila. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. (20-38zł). TAIS
The Mexican C-1, ul. Kramarska 19, tel. 061 851 05 36,
www.mexican.pl. Is the Polish food in Mexico this bad? Boyish
waiters dressed as cowboys greet diners at the door, then lead
you to take your chances on what might stand out as the most
shocking meal of your year. We’d like to see a picture of the cook
added to the Wanted posters, as the man is clearly a charlatan
of the most sinister design. Barely defrosted tortillas arrive hidden under sickly green gunk that wastes no time in letting the
intestines know they’re in trouble.QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00. (16-50zł). TAIEXS
Pizzerias
Estella D-2, ul. Garbary 41, tel. 061 852 34 10, www.estella.com.pl. A spacious, traditional pizzeria with 45 types of pizza
and an equally daunting number of pasta dishes. Long established,
with a faithful set of followers who won’t eat pizza anywhere else.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (12-69zł). PTJAXS
NEW
Kyokai Sushi Bar ul. Wojskowa 4 (Grunwald), tel. 0 519
37 61 82, www.kyokai.pl. Poznan’s appetite for sushi keeps
growing, and Kyokai is the latest contender in the battle of the
chopsticks. Sushi sets revolve around a circular bar, Tokyo-style,
while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. QOpen 10:00
- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (10-55zł). TAGSW
Matii Restaurant - Vodka Bar - Sushi Bar G-4, Pl. An-
dersa 5, tel. 061 850 50 20, www.matii.pl. The competition
for Poznań’s best sushi is seriously hotting up and this place
looks like a real contender for the title. Standing in the shadow of
the Stary Browar mall Matii makes use of imported sushi masters
to create a comprehensive range of top-notch aquatic choices
that delight the masses. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (19-68zł). PTAUXSW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
45
46
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Pizza Hut G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel.
0 660 70 96 42, www.pizzahut.com.pl. Just what you’d
expect. Also on ul. Szwajcarska 14, ul. Murawa 104 and ul.
Kaspra Drużbickiego 2. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00. (20-40zł). PTAUGS
Tivoli D-1, ul. Wroniecka 13, tel. 061 852 39 16, www.
pizzeriativoli.pl. A basic, intimate spot with wooden booths
and bunches of garlic and spices hanging everywhere. A
pioneer on the Poznań pizza scene since 1991, they serve
40 types of pizza with every ingredient you can think of and
a few that would never occur to you, like peach and banana.
Other locations can be found on Naramowicka 187 and
Czesława 3. Expect the same. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (1227zł). TJAXSW
Polish
Bamberka C-2, Stary Rynek 2, tel. 061 852 99 17. A
long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the complex of
buildings at the centre of the town square. Tiffany lamps,
stained glass panels and other classic touches add an awkwardly formal feel to the restaurant, though that does nothing
to detract from a strong European menu that includes several
local dishes. The pierogi are excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
(14-54zł). PTJASW
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Poznań In Your Pocket
Chłopskie Jadło D-2, Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from
ul. Franciszkanska), tel. 061 853 66 60, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. Here’s primitive dining for caveman appetites.
The menu here is meat and potatoes farmer’s fare, with
tables positively sinking under the weight of cabbage, lard
and animals. Decorated with jars of pickles and rusty saws
this is the complete Polish immersion experience, and the
number one way to get to grips with the country you’ve just
entered.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (1060zł). PTAS
Dramat C-2, Stary Rynek 41, tel. 061 856 09 38, www.
dramat.com.pl. One of the few places in the Rynek where
you can enjoy a pile of food without peeling off a number
of banknotes. Serving a breakfast menu of sausages and
eggs, late risers will head straight into their main menu which
includes a pretty definitive list of Polish dishes - ranging
from pierogi and their assorted fillings to pork chops. Vast,
with stout wooden extending into the cellars and an amiable set of staff keeping a watchful eye on their customers.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (11-27zł).
TJAIXSW
Kresowa C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel. 061 853 12 91. This
standout restaurant in the centre of Stary Rynek is pleasantly
old-fashioned, with classic furniture and brisk waistcoated
staff serving up appetisers like caviar and shrimp cocktail,
and main dishes like veal, beef tenderloin and grilled salmon.
Remember to look up: the ceiling is covered with witty
caricatures of Polish celebrities who’ve eaten here, including Nobel laureate Czesław Miłosz and tennis star Wojciech
Fibak. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (16-45zł).
PTJAEXS
Młyńskie Koło (The Millwheel) ul. Browarna 37
(Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 99 35, www.mlynskiekolo.
pl. Filled with dusty bottles and timber touches, the Mill’s
Wheel is a signature Polish restaurant with a menu that
takes its ingredients seriously; the fish are caught first thing
in the morning, while the duck apparently comes from the
adjacent lake. Tell them in advance and they’ll spit-roast a
pig for you. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-69zł).
TAUIEW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Markowa Knajpka C-1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. 061
853 01 78. The village meets the city in Makowa Knajpka, a whitewashed room featuring dark timber fittings
and some valium grooves. Excellent value local dishes
are presented to a thirty something crowd by a team of
friendly bargirls whose looks make the heart go ‘ping’.
We’ve always settled for the ‘classic steak’, and have yet
to be disappointed.QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00
- 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-52zł). PTAUE
BXSW
Pod Aniołem C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 852 98
54. Even the background din of big screen MTV doesn’t
distract from what is a pretty good feed. Fine diners are
going to run, but everyone else will appreciate the straight
forward style here - the food is deliciously simple; hunks of
meat cooked using local recipes and served with crinkly
fries. It won’t win awards, but it most certainly will fill any
gap you’ve been minding. Cellos and fiddles hang from
the ceiling, while the collection of wood furnishings and
assorted junk lend themselves well to the warming winter
atmosphere.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
(18-35zł). AXS
Pod Dz wonkiem D-2, ul. Garbar y 54, tel. 061
851 99 70, w w w.ob er za.com.pl. Res emblin g a
tradi tional mountain lodge Under the Bell features a
variety of rustic touches, wi th timber beams loaded
with rusting machiner y, pumpkins and ferns. Bar stools
are fashioned ou t of saddles, while elsewhere diners
can si t on seating car ved from barrels, before ordering lavish helpings of ribs stewed in beer and honey,
or skewered animals fresh from the grill. Simple bu t
effecti ve. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
(23-48zł). TAXSW
Pod Koziołkami C-2, Star y Rynek 95, tel. 061
851 78 68, www.podkoziolkami.pl. A long standing
restaurant that has been delighting both carni vores
and vegetarians for years. Upstairs you’ll find a huge
pantr y with the daily salads and pierogi on the menu.
Head downstairs to the grill cellar for your daily protein
quota. The interiors in this section are au thenticall y
shadowy with a medieval flavour, while the menu is a
good range of meaty choices like sirloin steak. Q Open
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-87zł). PT
JAUBXSW
Pod Złotą Jabłonią (Under The Gold Appletree) D-1, ul. Garbar y 48, tel. 061 852 91 70,
w w w.podzlotajablonia.com.pl. Th ere’s somethin g
a li t tl e cover t ab ou t dinin g h ere; lavish fi t tin gs an d
ex p e n s i ve l o o k i n g a r t wo r k l e n d s o m e t h i n g o f a
pri va te club a tmosph ere to this place. Th e m enu is
Polish in flu en ce d, th ou gh tha t do es nothin g to stop
th e ch efs from l et tin g th eir ima gina tions caper fre e
- ch e ck ou t th e du ck in anise e d an d h on ey. Q Open
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (44-118zł).
PTAEXSW
Ratuszova C-2, Star y Rynek 55, tel. 061 851 05
13, w w w.ratuszova.eu. Ei th er dine on th e ground
fl o or or d e s c en d t h e s tairs an d in to a spra wlin g
c ellar compl ete wi th vaul te d c eilin gs an d k ni gh tl y
murals. Ribs, steak, du ck an d oth er m ea t y m eals
come ser ved by an efficien t staff, and serious meat
ea ters can sa tisf y th eir bl o o dlust by ord erin g th e
Ra tu s zova pla te; i t in clu d es th re e t yp es of m ea t
and feeds a tiger. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15-69zł).
PTJA6IGXSW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Meteors
Some 10,000 years ago, the unsuspecting inhabitants
of the forests 10km north of what is now Poznań were
in for a nasty surprise when 4,500 tonnes of white-hot
rock slammed into their back yard. Forgotten in the years
that followed the Morasko meteor craters were only
rediscovered in 1914, when soldiers who were digging
trenches during World War I came across a 77kg lump of
meteorite. In total, several chunks (containing 90 per cent
iron) totalling 255kg have been found at the site, often
by farmers. When the disintegrating Morasko meteorite
came crashing from the cosmos, the impact created
eight large craters, of which seven remain today (one
having been destroyed by ploughing). The meteorites
came from the northeast, as the crater rims are highest
to the south and southwest, allegedly as part of a Perseid
meteor shower linked with the wonderfully named comet
‘Swift Tuttle’. After 10,000 years of erosion, the largest
crater is still 100m wide and 13m deep.
Since 1976 the area has been protected as a nature
reserve and is today easily accessible from Poznań.
For your slice of intergalactic drama take tram number
12, 14 or 15 from ul. Roosevelta to the terminus at Os.
Jana Sobieskiego, and then follow the bicycle route which
goes under the railway and northwest towards Morasko
forest. You can also get off the tram one stop earlier at
Szymanowskiego, and change to bus N°88, which goes to
Morasko village every 40 minutes. The craters are 600m
from Morasko and 4km from the tram terminus and the
surrounding beech forest is also home to numerous
endangered plants.
March - June 2009
47
48
CAFÉS
RESTAURANTS
Stary Marych
The bronze statue of a man with a bicycle that you may
find yourself colliding into is that of Stary Marych, one
of Poznań’s best loved exports. Found on the corner of
(C-3) ul. Półwiejska and Strzelcka the figure is based on
a fictional character who came to symbolize the typical
Poznonian. Regarded as one of Poznań’s most famous
natives this grumpy but decent man was the creation of
Juliusz Kubel and featured heavily in the writers columns,
all the time speaking a particular brand of local Poznań
dialect. The statue was the work of Robert Sobociński
and it hit the headlines last year when one local master
thief made off with the old mans left pedal. The missing
article was finally replaced in 2006, thereby restoring
the statue to its full glory.
W-Z Wielkopolska Zagroda A-1, ul. Fredry 12, tel.
061 665 88 01, www.w-z.pl. W-Z is nothing less than an
A-Z of Polish cooking, with everything from pancakes to pierogi
to pork knuckle to deal with. This place is vast, and comes
rammed with the obligatory timber décor, flower pots and
tree branches. Definitely a first stop to get acquainted with
the local dinner habits, and highly recommended. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (13-51zł). PTJAEXSW
Arkady D-2, Stary Rynek 52, tel. 061 852 06 15. A real
Chimera D-1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. 061 852 03 17,
www.chimera.poznan.pl. Walk past a counter stacked with
teas and cakes to take a seat on turquoise coloured furnishings. Spindly plants line the window stills and a strong wine
list encourages a middle-aged crowd through the doors. This
is one place where smokers are in the minority, and will find
themselves banished to a back room.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTJAX
Spanish
Atmosfera (Atmosphere) D-1, ul. Mokra 2, tel.
061 851 03 99. Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west should make a beeline here. Going
completel y against the grain these gu ys have taken
the inspired step of getting rid of their no-smoking section; good work lads. This is a cracking cafe/bar, its
two floors complete with creaking floorboards, fragile
cabinets, weird ar twork and huddles of academics leafing through notebooks. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. ASW
Cocorico D-2, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. 061 852 95 29.
Tapas Bar D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32,
www.tapas.pl. Right on the corner of the Rynek this Spanish
spot has long been popular with a cashed up local crowd.
Service is stone faced but everything else wins gold stars;
from a warm interior littered with wrought iron and Hispanic
paintings to the steaks, which we rate as some of the best
we’ve tried. The kitchen is right at the entrance, allowing
diners the opportunity to hear their food sizzle and chefs clattering around cursing less competent colleagues. Always a
good night, and sometimes excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (38-67zł). PJAB
Taste Barcelona C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar
A. Pagińska
II floor), tel. 061 278 76 86. Stary Browar keeps surprising
us. Every shopping centre now claims to be ‘more than a mall’,
but here’s one that actually justifies the hyperbole. Part of
the reason is the endless stream of top notch eateries, and
Taste Barcelona is one of the latest. The open plan design
leaves diners open to peering eyes, but there’s no faulting
the aesthetics; clean, blond woods and coloured bottles
set behind an illuminated bar. On the menu good quickie
tapas bites cooked with confidence and presented with
flair. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (15-30zł).
PAXSW
waste of prime real estate. Occupying a corner of the main
square this one room affair comes decorated in a naff mock
turn-of-century fashion with oil paintings and a chandelier
hanging from the ceiling. Top ten hits from the Polish charts
pollute the air, and you can’t help but conclude that Arkady
has all the charisma of cholera. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00.
AGSW
Behemot D-1, ul. Kramarska 16, tel. 0 784 52 25 11.
The cat lovers choice. Find cat pictures adorning every possible space, some cute, some scary. A gigantic stock of teas,
and decent selection of desserts are at your disposal. The
dark lighting makes it a good spot for an intimate encounter.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. J
Cacao Republika C-1, ul. Zamkowa 7, tel. 061 855
43 78. Full of rattan and spindly plants this slightly staid
coffee stop benefits from its location, just round the corner
from the square. Atmosphere is somewhat lacking, a fault
compensated by freshly roasted coffee beans and a wide
range of herbal teas.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 23:00. TJASW
Best known for its fairytale garden Cocorico would still warrant a visit even if sun felt out of the sky. In colder times bolt
yourself inside amid a charming topsy-turvy interior heaving
with chintz and sepia photographs. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. JAS
Cofeel’ya D-1, ul. Żydowska 29, tel. 061 851 62
19. Lined up like skittles ulica. Żydowska features an outstanding row of café stops and eateries. Cofeel’ya is the
youngest of the brood, and comes suitably dressed with
a hip, urbane motif accentuated by bright primary colours
and chillout tunes. But this place is not just about coffee,
with the menu also promising a selection of gourmet teas,
cocktails, salads and desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
ASW
Costa Coffee G-4, ul. Półwiejska 26, tel. 061 610 15
15, www.costacoffee.pl. Within the space of three minutes
the people at Costa Coffee have gone bananas and opened
in practically every major urban area - from Katowice to
Gdansk. The Poznan venture is exactly the same as the others, with a generic and sterile interior offset by what is reliably
decent coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
PTAXSW
Cafe Bordo D-1, ul. Żydowska 28/3, tel. 061 851 00
81, www.cafebordo.com. The garden is one of the best
in town; stuffed with flower pots, vines and a fountain. With
Poznań temporarily finding itself part of the arctic circle
you’re not going to see much of it, so instead head indoors
where the aroma of herbal tea hangs thick in the air, and
a middle-aged crowd whisper amid flickering candles and
bottles of wine. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
TJAXW
Cafe Sekret C-2, ul. Sieroca 5/6, tel. 0 605 41 33
The oldest Restaurant in Poznań
28, www.cafesekret.pl. A right little treasure this place,
with a scattering of chambers set amid vaulted bricks walls
and cobbled flooring. Dimly lit, and decorated with bursts
of flowers and fruit, the owner appears to have something
of a liking for brown - a nice colour for chocolate, yes, not
so striking when thrown on furniture. Nevertheless, this
café is a corker, and a bit of a favourite with the local
cognoscenti. The house specialty is the ‘apple fantasy’,
and it tastes all the better if the turtle-necked pianist is in
residence.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
EXSW
Where King Jan II Kazimierz Waza resided
You may savour authentic Polish cuisine and
dishes of an international flavour expertly
prepared by our highly experienced Chef.
Three different areas are available for
our guests: restaurant, cafe, bar
Caffe Ławka D-1, ul. Żydowska 8, tel. 061 853 43
Stary Rynek 55, Poznań, tel +48 61 8510 513
email: info@ratuszova.eu
www.ratuszova.eu
Poznań In Your Pocket
poznan.inyourpocket.com
48. A super cafe bar wi th a girl y Laura Ashley design
in the front, and a great garden ou t the back. Lying in
between is a temporar y building si te, meaning you’ll
b e steppin g over hammers and spanners as Polski
builders clank around you. I t’s well wor th th e brush
wi th the working class, the garden is ace, and if you’re
lucks in you’ll be treated to the sound of a talented
neighbour practising violin. On the menu a vast choice
of desser ts and teas, as well as frozen smoothies made
using the frui ts of the season. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00.
TAEXSW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
49
NIGHTLIFE
CAFÉS
50
Czekolada D-1, ul. Żydowska 29, tel. 061 851 92 91,
NEW
Post-Office Cafe C-2, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel. 061 670
www.czekoladacafe.pl. A trendy version of Willie Wonka’s
chocolate factory. Stark white walls, earth coloured drapes
and chill-out tunes generate an edgy atmosphere. The staff
are brilliant, the clientele wear black and the toilet has to
be the most space-age in Poznań. The menus, attached to
big wooden sticks, cover all imagainable chocolate perversions: from chocolate fondue to ‘Mexican chocolate chicken’.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. TJASW
64 48. It took us months to locate this place, it’s that small - find
it yourself by pointing your beak towards those colourful burgher
buildings right by the town hall. Set on two levels this pumpkin-sized
cafe features a postal theme with the Queen’s head embossed
onto the surfaces, and a loyal fan base who squeeze in to enjoy
Japanese-style omelettes (no, we’ve no idea either) and other
international oddities. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AESW
Filigrando Cafe & Lunch C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary
Red Erik Cafe C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel.
Browar), tel. 061 667 12 15, www.filigrando.pl. Just
as Stary Browar has proved to be much more than a mall
Filigrando proves to be much more than a café. Placed in
the part that connects the new and old wing of Stary Browar
this fancy café isn’t unlike climbing into a wedding cake, what
with all the frills and snow white colours. Crammed with bird
cages, bits of straw and racks of wine this place is an aesthetic pleasure, and far beyond the café stops usually found
in malls. QOpen 09:00 - 21.00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. PTAUEXSW
Gong D-2, ul. Wielka 22, tel. 061 852 54 67. A real oldie
this one, and still as popular as ever in spite of an obstinate
refusal to renovate the interiors. This was formerly a cinema
and Gong keeps the spirit of Hollywood alive with pics of silver
screen sirens and film director chairs. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PXS
Gruszecki D-2, Stary Rynek 50, tel. 061 826 81 07,
www.gruszecki.pl. The flagship venture of the Gruszecki cake
company, this town square café is a goldmine for both adults
and their offspring. Big cakes, cream rolls and every dessert under the sun served by a team of frosty, droid-like staff. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. AXSW
NEW
Kawka D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18, tel. 061 852 60 70. A popular
spot for afternoon coffee or an after-work beer, the windows
here always appear to catch the sunlight. Sporting a style that
falls between artsy and rural, Kawka features black-and-white
prints, a piano and a cupboard topped with a battered suitacase.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJAUS
Pożegnanie z Afryką A-2, ul. Szkolna15, tel. 061 855
33 49, www.pozegnanie.com. View coffee contraptions of
every size and style inside this nationwide chain. Equipped
with bags of beans and jars of coffee leaves this place looks
every inch a contender, and the drinks menu is truly global in
its scope. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. AGS
Pod Pretekstem (Under a Veil) A-2, ul. Św. Marcin
80/82 (entrance from ul. Kościuszki 79), tel. 061 853 30
47, www.podpretekstem.pl. A quirky café/bar/restaurant
situated round the back of the Zamek. Trumpets hang from
the ceiling and giant beetles adorn the walls. Art nouveau
details abound with several oddities thrown in, and while the
staff can frustrate with their mute and meek approach this
remains one of the top café bars in the city. Every so often the
lights dim and a pianist dressed in a cat black polo neck takes
to the stage; worth the visit alone. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTAEXSW
Pomarańcza D-1, ul. Żydowska 26, tel. 061 852 40
67. Poznań’s café strip gets better with the addition of Pomarancza. Modern art combines with decent teas and coffee
though the lasting impression will be of the orange theme;
find everything from chunky orange candlesticks to mandarins
sitting inside flowerpots in this cheerful neighbourhood café.
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. JAE
Poznań In Your Pocket
061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. Home to a number
of bars, restaurants and cafes the Dom Vikingow complex is a
self-contained ex-pat world, with Red Erik the most prominent
venue of the lot. Occupying the ground floor this restobar
crossover packs out the moment work finishes as off-duty
business bods take to the bar to size up the cocktails and
impress blonde bargirls with their faltering grasp of the local
lingo. Always a smashing night out, with an all-purpose menu
that unites dishes from across the world, including curries,
wraps, burgers and steaks. Breakfast served each day from
10:00. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. TABSW
Poznan bars are flexible - no matter what the official
closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until
the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots
are concentrated around the Old Town Square area, but
also check out ul. Nowowiejskiego and ul. Taczaka both of
whom draw students in their droves.
Bars & Pubs
Academic Pub B-3, ul. Taczaka 11, tel. 061 853 69 80. While
the name suggests you’ll find crowds of intellectual swats you can
rest assured that the last thing the students who drink here have on
their mind is tomorrows lecture. This is a plain brick cellar with décor
limited to wooden benches and promotional bumph announcing
the availability of Red Bull and Lech. The juke box seems to play a
continuous cycle of Polish pop hits, while the toilet is of the sort that
will send you skidding across puddles of urine, your fall broken by the
reels of toilet paper sticking to the floor. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat
09:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PXW
Soho D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3, tel. 061 221 70 45, www.
cafesoho.pl. A small one-window affair piled with orangeish
sofas and armchairs. The artwork on the walls changes
regularly: on our visit a quirky photographic homage to the
Mini Cooper. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JAXSW
Agawa E-3, ul. Mickiewicza 28, tel. 061 847 23 27, www.
dart.dmf.pl. Darts heaven. Do your drinking inside a colourful environment of plastic trees and orange walls while the thump of darts
missing their target sounds off in the background. The backroom
here is lined with electronic darts boards, buzzing and whirring furiously as amateur sportsmen practice their noble pursuit. If you’re
here for a while then broaden your social horizons by joining one of
their leagues. Ask at the bar for details. QOpen 13:00 - 04:00,
Mon, Sun 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PX
Stacja Cafe (The Station) D-2, ul. Woźna 1 (etrance
Balinga D-1, ul. Szewska 15, tel. 0 605 03 28 54,
from ul. Klasztorna), tel. 0 509 50 80 49. Sink into one of
the armchairs and enjoy one of Poznań’s best kept secrets.
Cluttered with board games and framed pictures expect a murky
Krakowian ambience. Clarinets and violins hang from walls, the
music is soft and moody and the interior complete with stone
cobbles and a street light. If that doesn’t set the pulse racing, a
stolen glance at the barmaid will. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PTIXSW
www.balinga.pl. A fab and scuzzy bar that shakes to the
sound of electro, minimal and old skool dance choons. Out
front saucer-eyed locals pass sheesha pipes back and forth,
while in the back room find the weekends chemical casualties
passed out amid posters advertising Tresor and a sign artfully
liberated from Cambridge Avenue. Enjoy it while you can, they’ll
be closed from April 30 onwards. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. E
Uczta Babette D-1, ul. Żydowska 27/2, tel. 061 855 77
Barcode C-2, Stary Rynek 53/54, tel. 0 668 09 10 09,
88. Ulica Żydowska has become the café capital of Poznań, and
perched in the middle of it all is this brand new effort. Decorated
with fuchsia colours and bursts of greenery this looks set to be
just the warming antidote you need after a day spent stepping
in melted gunk. Timber touches and a scattering of armchairs
add to the magnetic charm.QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. TAXSW
Umberto D-1, ul. Żydowska 28, tel. 061 851 54 52, www.
umberto.com.pl. In the thick of Poznan’s cafe quarter Umberto
has a trattoria atmosphere and a concise menu of Italian mains.
A popular destination on a street not short on culinary stars.
QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:30. AGS
Weranda D-2, ul. Świętosławska 10, tel. 061 853 25
87, www.zielonaweranda.pl. The interior, a warm jumble
of wooden clutter and soft music, is the ideal space to reheat your cockles after braving the nut-numbing cold of al
fresco Poland. And the menu is just what’s needed in such
emergencies - lots of teas, coffee and homemade puddings.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. TJAXS
Zapiecek D-1, ul. Żydowska 10, tel. 061 851 06 50. Do
your thawing out inside this home from home. Decorations
come in the form of bookcases, roses and a piano, and staff
creep around on squeaking floorboards delivering tea, coffee
and piping hot beer filled with herbs. The garden in the back will
have you counting down for summer to arrive. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. UX
poznan.inyourpocket.com
www.barcode-poznan.pl. An itsy little cocktail bar with room
for about twelve people, or fifteen if they’re small. Decorated in
muted cream and chocolate colours this place has a mildly retro
air, pre-club choons and a frightened little blond thing peeking over
the bar. It is a cocktail bar, though you’ll be lucky to find any flair or
flamboyance employed in the making of your drink.QOpen 16:00
- 24:00. From April 15 Open 09:00-24:00. PAUW
Wine
Bacchus Winiarnia D-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. 061
852 02 32, www.bartex.com.pl. A decent choice of world
wine inside a tiled interior with fake ivy and a Best of the 80s
soundtrack. In a city short on wine bars this place fills the
void well. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 19:00, Tue,
Wed 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. AGW
Vinoteka la Bodega D-2, ul. Stary Rynek 92, tel.
061 853 65 97, www.bodega.pl. Poznań’s wine lovers finally have a home to go to in this sleek bar stroke
shop. Fitted out in pale blond colours Bodega has been
cleverly decorated with corks hanging by the windows
and upturned wine glasses dangling from the ceilings.
The wine offer is first rate and includes a number of new
world wines as well as more standard bottles, and your
tipple of choice comes served either by the glass or by
the bottle. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAXW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
51
NIGHTLIFE
52
Bee Jay’s C-2, Stary Rynek 87, tel. 061 853 11 15,
www.beejays.pl. It could only work in Poznan. Find cherubs,
stained glass and bagpipes squeezed amidst flashing disco
lights and lairy promotional material supplied by Red Bullshit.
The music is loud, and often rubbish, but Beejay’s still wins
customers on account of a good spread of seats, decent
drinks selection, and some good lookers behind the bar. They
do food, but then so do prisons.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PJAIEW
NEW
Blow Up Hall G-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. 061 657 99 91.
Woah, if there’s one place that’s left an impact this issue it’s
the Blow Up. The bar is the final word in industrial chic, with
metal floors, exposed brickwork and ceilings that stretch to
the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes with
your head, as do the cocktails, truly the work of a scientific
hand. As for the bar itself, that’s a multi-angled, zinc plated
masterpiece that has no rival. It’s not often we attach the
words unmissable to a venue, so take note and visit.
Blue Note Jazz Club A-1, ul. Kościuszki 76/78, tel. 061
851 04 08, www.bluenote.poznan.pl. A vast multi-level jazz
club whose spangly interior has shades of 90s club tragedy
written all over it - don’t let that fool you, this venue is a legend,
with some of the biggest names in Polish and international jazz
performing in the past. Do check what’s cooking beforehand
mind; this space has been known to be rented out for teen hip
hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle. QOpen 19:00 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. PAUE
Bodega Cafe D-1, ul. Żydowska 4, tel. 061 851 00 94. This
is where the local night cats head to when they grow up. Popular
with a late twenties crowd Bodega features low lounge seating,
chocolate colours and subdued lighting. Find the wine room outback.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. PAB
Bogota A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. 061 853 71 33,
www.bogotaclub.pl. Bogota? Bog standard, more to the point.
This place is as Colombian as your garden shed, with nothing to
cheer this bland basement waste other than some token scraps
of Aztec art and a collection of uncomfortable benches. At a
guess there approximately 100 better bars to visit. QOpen
16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PAW
Brogans Irish Pub D-1, ul. Szewska 20a, tel. 061 852
50 73, www.brogans.pl. Loud, smoky and slightly murky,
Brogan’s is everything you expect from an Irish pub, with a
cracking atmosphere that brings to mind the hazy air of your
neighborhood local. Visual diversions come courtesy of tankards, chess boards and street signs, while a regular rotation
of international guest beers keep the crowd clinking glasses
way into the night.QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. PJAEX
Brovaria C-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel.
061 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Drink Poznań’s best
beer alongside business travelers talking contracts and native high-fliers courting the attentions of the local sex sirens.
Out in the back a large room crammed with copper vats and
dials produces the three house beers, while in the front find
a modern design that combines steel and glass in tasteful
style. Never a quiet night, and definitely a nominee for bar of
the year. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJAW
Browar Pub C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping
Mall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.slodownia.com. A huge drinking
complex featuring copper brewing vats, plenty of booze food and the
atmosphere of a ribald beer hall. Cut out queues and middlemen
by booking a table with a private beer tap.QOpen 20:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAW
Poznań In Your Pocket
NIGHTLIFE
Buddha Bar C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10 (enter from ul.
Sieroca), tel. 061 852 33 99, www.buddhabar-poznan.
pl. A nightclub inside an Indian restaurant? You’ve every right
to be suspicious. What works as a restaurant (and an outstanding one at that), simply doesn’t float our boat as a club.
It looks great, but it appears the pin-up party people have
drifted away since this venue first opened its doors. By all
means come for food, go elsewhere for the party. The music,
incidentally, is nothing like you’d expect from a venue making
use of the Buddha name - no lounge or trance tracks here,
just chart noise interspersed with the occasional bhangra
beat.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAU
Cactus Factoria D-2, ul. Ślusarska 5, tel. 0 510
11 18 02. A mul ti-level restaurant, bar, club mutant
with black/red colours, latin music and some mysterious
spongey fabric on the walls outback. Strangely, in spite of
being in possession of enough booze to sink the Titanic,
they couldn’t fix a margarita; fortunately with staff this stunning it’s a fault that gets quickly overlooked. The upstairs
section houses the club, and it’s been known to get pretty
lively come the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 03:00. AW
Deserovnia D-2, ul. Świętosławska 12, tel. 061 851 51 17.
Expect a cacophony of noise the moment the local football side
are beamed onto the plasma screen. This is your traditional sports
pub effort, with generous benched booths, posters of frothing
beer mugs and photographs of footballs finest amphitheatres.
Brass lamps and Lech Poznań scarves hang from newly varnished
surfaces, and even the dominance of Warka sponsored furnishings
fails to cool the bubbling atmosphere. No Sky Sports, but you can
catch English league action on the Canal Plus channel. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PAX
Dragon C-1, ul. Zamkowa 3, tel. 061 853 08 19, www.
dragon.krzyk.pl. If you meet any shell-shocked expats who look
like they’ve just tumbled out of bed a minute earlier the chances
are you’ll soon find them mumbling something about being ‘dragoned’. That’s local lexicon for getting completely trousered in one
of the best bars in Poz. Frequented by all-night weirdoes Dragon
is all reject furniture, steel mesh imbedded into peeling plaster
walls and the bracing smell of spillage and smoke. Artsy films and
visuals come projected onto the walls while stoned dropouts form
human pyramids on jumble sale sofas. Overlooking the bedlam is
a dragons head bursting out from above the bar area. Priceless.
QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PJAEW
Eskulap ul. Przybyszewskiego 39 (Grunwald), tel. 0 61 665 88
Café Plotka D-1, ul. Dominikańska 7, tel. 061 852 19
33, www.plotka.poznan.pl. Framed pictures of ducks sit
alongside china plates and other associated frilly extras.
We’re undecided whether this is a bar or a café - the cakes
standing on the corner suggest the former, the giggling gangs
of middle-aged girls on the razzle suggest the latter. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. JA
02, www.eskulap.art.pl. A cult venue with something always going
on. There’s plenty of live acts, concerts and DJs entering the fray here,
and while it’s not much design wise it gets absolutely chockablock
come weekends with the alternate party crowd.QOpen 21:00 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. AEXW
Corner Pub A-2, ul. Taczaka 10, tel. 061 633 23 32,
16 (enter from ul. 27 Grudnia), tel. 061 855 33 21, www.
estadio.com.pl. A big and shiny sports bar with naked brick
walls, black and white finishes and lots of reflective surfaces.
It looks pretty good, but a sports bar should be judged on
the sports it broadcasts - here it’s Polish cable only, with
Sky Sports and Setanta an aberrant fantasy. Q Open
12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 06:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat
14:00 - 11:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
www.corner-pub.pl. It’s on a corner, down a basement
and full of students. You need know nothing more about this
venue, other than it’s immensely popular with people willing
to sacrifice design extras for near giveaway beer.QOpen
08:00 - 05:00. P
Coxy’s D-2, ul. Woźna 11. There might be hope for Coxy’s
yet. When this place opened it was hyped as an alternative
to Dom Vikingow’s Sports Bar. The competition has closed
(inexplicably), making Coxy’s by default the one expat friendly
sports pub in town. Lined with framed football shirts and
assorted football detritus this venue comes into its element whenever there’s a big match on, and gets a decent
weekend following of stag nights and students.QOpen
14:00 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 04:00,
Sun 14:00 - 24:00. AE
Czerwony Fortepian D-1, ul. Wroniecka 18 (entrance
from ul. Mokra), tel. 061 852 01 74, www.czerwonyfortepian.pl. An upscale restaurant and bar that markets
itself as the classiest jazz joint in town - which might account
for the snidey, snooty, what-the-hell-do-you-want attitude of
your waiter. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a private club,
and the interiors are all the better since a recent renovation
saw all the previous furnishings auctioned off to a Paris
brothel. Now it’s a super cool vanilla design with scrubbed
bricks and a back-lit bar, with the only surviving remnant from
times gone being the 100 year old piano. QOpen 12:00 24:00. PJAEXW
Déja Vu Café D-2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. 0 502 03 38 87. A
trip to Deja Vu is essential for anyone wishing to masquerade
as a student. This place is full of them, and little more than
a series of plainly decorated rooms that simmer with noise
at all hours. Boozy and basic with a hangover guaranteed.
QOpen 09:30 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. JW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
NEW
Estadio Sports Bar & Restaurant F-3, ul. Miełżyńskigo
Fashion Cafe C-2, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. 061 855 75 57,
www.fashioncafe.com.pl. This is what happens when someone with bad taste and pots of money is given license to open a
place. With a flimsy, flashy interior you really have to be a certain
type to drink in this teenie trap. Consider it Vegas on the cheap.
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. PAEW
NEW
F.B.I Poznan C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 18. FBI to some people, the
Finest Bar in Poznan to others. It’s big, black and shiny, and while it
looks like a kick ass cocktail den you can’t help but wonder where
all the people are. It’s empty, disconcertingly so, but use that to
your advantage and test your chat on the Miss Polska bargirls
- after all, they’ve nothing better to do than entertain the sleazy
overtures of the foreign stud. Numerous bars and restaurants
have tried their luck in this location, all have failed; could this be
the one that breaks the duck? QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
NEW
Fever G-3, Stary Rynek 82, tel. 061 851 80 22, www.
fever-club.com. Pay tribute to the days of Roller Girl and
Travolta inside this kitschy seventies throwback. They’ve gone
for an orange look, and topped it off with lots of fur trim, huge
lights and those funny plastic seats that must have seemed
positively space age when they first rolled off the production
line. The retro fad has gone down a storm with the locals, and
empty seats are more the exception than the norm. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PTAUXSW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Poland in film
First there was Schindler’s List, then came Roman
Polanski’s The Pianist. After a short lull Poland returned
to the silver screen last year, with Andrzej Wajda’s Oscar
nominated Katyn – the heart rending story of the NKVD
massacre of Polish officers during WWII. This year promises even more exposure for Poland, with three potential
blockbusters adding Hollywood spin to the nation’s
recent history.
First off there’s Defiance, a big budget effort starring
James Bond hero Daniel Craig as one of the Bielski
brothers. The story is thus: Polish Jew Tuvia Bielski and
his three brothers flee the invading Nazis and take to the
forests, from where they conduct a partisan campaign
against the German occupiers. Along the way the brothers
save 1,200 Jews and avenge the death of their parents.
All the better, the film is based on fact. However, the film
has been panned in Poland, and the Institute of National
Remembrance has launched an investigation into the
brothers to ascertain if they were involved in a massacre of 128 Polish villagers in Naliboki. Polish historians
have also levelled allegations that the Bielski brothers
were involved in up to 100 clashes with the Polish Home
Army, and aided the Red Army in their campaign against
Poland’s underground armed wing. On top of that comes
the revelation that the one surviving brother, Aron, was
charged with deception recently after swindling a fellow
Holocaust survivor. But don’t let the truth cloud a good
flick, Defiance finds itself nominated for an Oscar, and
at press time had an IMDB rating of 7.5.
Next up there’s Valkyrie, a film which tells the story of
Colonel Claus von Stauffenberg, the man at the centre
of the plot to assassinate Hitler at his Mazurian HQ. A
noble cause and one certainly worthy of remembrance.
Why then, have the producers opted for Top Gun Tom
Cruise to play the lead role, American accent et al. In
fairness the film is not as bad as one expects, though
it’s certainly a bit of a missed opportunity. In the words
of Telegraph reviewer Jenny McCartney, ‘the gripping
mechanics of the plot, the scale of what was at stake,
and the varied personalities of the plotters are the
stuff of high drama, yet Bryan Singer’s film never quite
convinces as a portrait of Germany at the time. The
dialogue likes to spell out in large letter, for slow learners,
the moral necessity of this assassination to redeem
Germany’s reputation.’
Finally, the Poles themselves have decided to have a
stab at this film lark, namely with the February release
of Popieluszko. Rafał Wieczyński’s film tells the story
of Father Jerz y Popieluszko, a captivating character
who came to public attention in the early 80s for his
fierce anti-communist rhetoric. His close links with
Solidarity and Radio Free Europe brought him to the
attention of the internal security ser vices, and in
1984 they decided to dispense of him altogether. A
car accident was set up to serve this purpose, though
Popieluszko somehow sur vived. Six days later he
was abducted, beaten and murdered, and his corpse
dumped in a reservoir. His funeral drew a crowd of over
250,000 mourners, and in 1997 the church started
the process of beatification. Denied the pleasure of
a preview we’ve no idea how Wiecz yński will treat
the subject, or even explore unexplained questions
such as why the security services were so interested
in a priest?
March - June 2009
53
54
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Fontanna Czekolady C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 9, tel. 061
Hipokryzja (The Hypocrisy) D-1, ul. Kramarska
Klub Zak D-1, ul. Szyperska 2, tel. 061 855 34 83,
852 67 23, www.fontannaczekolady.pl. The tunnelshaped Fontanna looks like it never ends. It does, in fact, usually the moment you collide with the full length mirror standing
at the end of the bar. There’s a distinctly retro aesthetic here
with the purple sofas, dimmed lighting and chandeliers harking
back to the days of Boogie Nights excess. A good pre-club
stop, affirmed by the presence of the night vamps freshly
touched up for a night on the prowl.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAUX
7, tel. 061 853 32 50, www.hipokryzjapoznan.com.
A voluptuous venue where every thing comes bathed in
rich crimson shades and the dim flicker of tea candles.
Smokers get shunted up the stairs on the top floor, in a
large room decked out with dark woods, brass pots and
assorted shrubbery, while a great selection of chillout
tunes help complete the effor tless transi tion of day
into night. Q Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
PAUEX
www.klubzak.pl. Book readings, film screenings, ar t
exhibitions, sports screenings and ribald revelry make Zak
somewhat of a winner on Poznań’s student circuit. Bricks,
benches and wood are the interior ingredients, and the live
music includes jazz, blues and folk tunes, all lapped up by a
crowds of drinkers lost in the fog of smoke. Traditional pubs
sports like table football and darts encourage displays of oneupmanship. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat
09:00 - 06:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PAIEW
Fort Colomb A-3, ul. Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. 0
Johnny Rocker D-2, ul. Wielka 9, tel. 061 853 62
Kultowa C-3, ul. Wrocławska 16, tel. 061 853 43 27,
www.kultowa.pl. An urbane pre-club bar aimed at a twenty
something audience. The interior is black and modern, and
finding seats can pose a challenge come the weekend.
QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. PAEW
601 55 02 35, www.fortcolomb.pl. An old brick fortress-cum
pub found in Park Marcinkowskiego. The interior is standard:
exposed brick, local radio for music, and it appears popular with
lads wearing World Gym t-shirts and practising hard man stares.
QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. IE
Fuego C-2, Stary Rynek 25, tel. 061 851 88 02. Come for
a bit of sexual healing inside this salmon pink old town bar. R&B
tunes provide the backing sounds, while an interior of stripey
chairs, wrought iron and an even a teddy bar perched on the bar
steadily fills with young couples on first dates. QOpen 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PJAUBXW
Habana C- 2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 061 853 02 22,
www.habanarestaurant.pl. Full of mirrored decoys, padded
satin walls and extravagant arched windows this place certainly
looks the part. It looks rich and classy, words that can be applied
to the patrons as well. The booze list has clearly been given a lot
of thought, and the drinks selection is possibly the best in Poz; we
can recommend the Havana Lady Special, a gorgeous cocktail
that slips down in one gulp. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAW
Headless figures
Head up to Poznań’s Citadel Park to get utterly freaked
out over the sight of 112 two metre tall cast iron figures
seemingly making their way zombie-like across the grass.
Odd enough you might think, but not half as alarming
as when you notice none of them have heads. Titled
‘Nierozpoznani’ (Unrecognized) the batty installation is
the work of local arts graduate Magdalena Abakanowicz and was unveiled to coincide with Poznań’s 750th
birthday celebrations in 2002. We’re unclear what their
relevance to Poznań is, or for that matter birthdays, and
no-one else seems have the answer either. Explanations
have ranged from the intelligent to the downright stupid;
some pompous pillocks point out the statues reflect
the empty emotions of modern living, other critics claim
their purpose is to make individuals confront their inner
selves. Abakonwicz herself remains tight lipped over her
work, a sure sign she doesn’t have a clue either and just
came across the idea over a flagon of cider. Find out more
about the artist on www.abakanowicz.art.pl.
DariuszKrakowiak
Poznań In Your Pocket
32, www.johnnyrocker.pl. Step into Johnny Rocker and
you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve inadvertently entered
a warehouse, what with all the barrels, pipes, tubes and
dials. Worry not, take the metal stairs and follow the noise
coming from the basement and you’ll locate Poznan’s best
worst kept secret. Decked out in neo-industrial fashion this
labyrinthine cellar comes with bits of metal hanging from the
walls, a crow standing behind the bar and posters advertising avant-garde drum workshops. Add to this a staunch
commitment to rock music and whisky paraphernalia and
it’s almost possible to imagine that fella from Guns’n’Roses
walking in with his top hat and snake. Our favourite detail:
the blokes toilet, where pictures of women holding tape
measures stare directly at nervous lads using the urinal.
QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed
Sun. PAE
Kamea D-1, ul. Wroniewska 22, tel. 061 851 72 11.
A genuine labour of love, this gallery-cum-bar is filled with
jazzy sounds, vases of flowers and wooden cupboards.
Sink into one of the leather armchairs and admire the
artwork hanging from the walls, or choose from one of
the largest cocktail lists in the city. Often empty, but never
disappointing.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
PJAEX
Kisielice B-3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. 061 665 84 84, www.
kisielice.com. A one in a million haven of individuality, the
K Hole is possibly Poznań’s best known bar, and certainly
its best. The crowd comprises of a cross section of social
dropouts, to a man waiting on a book deal, record contract
or exam results, while the music policy is completely bonkers;
anything obscure will get airtime here. The Warholesque
interior is the perfect backdrop for the permissive behaviour
that is expected at nightfall, with staff matching customers
shot for shot into the daft, murky hours. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 02:00. EW
Klepsydra D-2, ul. Paderewskiego 11, tel. 061 852 15
39. A second-floor bar with a cut-price menu and ghastly
decorations that sit alongside a traditional wood-carved
bar and ceiling paintings of old Poznań. A preponderance of
plantlife hinders the views of old town, forcing patrons to focus
on the frequent bouts of karaoke. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 03:00. PJEXW
Klub Galeria Shisha A-3, ul. Taczaka 15, tel. 0
500 37 23 72, www.shisha.net.pl. On the Taczaka
pub crawl route, so find plenty of students zig-zag ging
around this Eg yptian-themed haunt. Wall-paintings of
falcon-winged gods and pharaohs keep an eye on the
fun, with a series of hookah pipes to cloud the evening.
Take to the cream leather armchairs to make the most
of the spaced out atmosphere. A great detour to the
one dimensional spit and sawdust atmosphere of the
nearby beer halls. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun
18:00 - 02:00. PW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Warm sounds,
soulful, funky, latino
Fridays and Saturdays
Lizard King C-1, Stary Rynek 86, tel. 061 855 04 72,
www.lizardking.pl. It’s not unlikely you’ll hear the live bands
from the other side of the Rynek - this is rock star heaven,
where the cocktails have names like Dylan and Cocker, and
the toilet is accessed by stepping through a cello. Vinyl discs
and brass instruments adorn the wall space, while lighting rigs
hang from the ceilings, ready to beam onto the cover acts who
play most evenings. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PAEW
Lobby Bar G-4, Pl. Andersa 3 (Andersia Hotel), tel. 061
667 80 00, www.andersiahotel.pl. Relive the glory days of
Hasselhoff inside Hotel Andersia’s glitzy ground floor drinkery.
Take to one of the swivelly chairs that surround the black marble
bar, or else repair to the white poufs lurking in the corners. Filled
with mirrored strips and neon dashes this bar works surprisingly
well, feeling cosmopolitan as opposed to outdated. Clubby tunes
get piped from invisible speakers, while a supremely personable bar tender fixes cocktails with all the skill of an alchemist.
QOpen 17:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:30. PAUW
Londoner Pub C-1, Stary Rynek 90. Our lingering impression was the toilet; broken on our visit, and home to an
unforgettable sight we would have rather avoided. You learn
to expect the unexpected in Londoner, this is after all a bar
where a small hatchway opens into a tourist information point,
and decorations include an endless list of useless junk; the
further you penetrate the more surreal your journey becomes,
with gramophones, a model goat and other curios taking up all
viable space. Beware the Kilkenny - a horrid brew at the best
of times, but even worse coming out of these taps.QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. J
Malibu Bar C-2, ul. Wrocławska 2, tel. 061 852 45
86, www.malibubar.pl. Shock white colour schemes have
punters reaching for their shades, and this place is definitely
aimed at the ‘sunglasses at night’ crowd. It takes about ten
people to fill the dance floor, so don’t be surprised to find the
local Playboy bunnies dancing around the tables - sometimes
on them. A couple of back rooms come stuffed with bright
orange ottomans, though the overriding impression is one of
stark minimalism. But the really good news here are the cocktails; the AK47 (comprised of vodka, rum, gin, whisky, tequila
and triple sec) could kill a rhino. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu
19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. PAEW
Mood C-3, ul. Półwiejska 18, tel. 061 853 05 30, www.
moodclub.pl. Poznań’s principal shopping street doesn’t
have much in the way of boozing options, so it’s no surprise
to find Mood with a monopoly on the good times and late
nights. Set down a courtyard this place gets plenty of custom
during daylight, but it’s come pumpkin hour that things kick
off in earnest - swing by at the weekend when DJs enter the
frame to pep up the crowd.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00. PAEW
LISTEN CLASSIC ROCK/POP MUSIC 1959-2009
&
DANCE THU - SAT
ul. Wielka 9
61-744 Poznan
www.johnnyrocker.pl
poznan.inyourpocket.com
TRY
FEEL
BEST WHISKEY AT THE BEST PRICE
UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE
OPEN:
Mon – Wed 17:00 – 00:00
Thu – Sat 17:00 – 03:00
March - June 2009
55
56
NIGHTLIFE
International football
Between them Polish national coach Leo Beenhakker,
and head of the Polish FA (PZPN), Grzegorz Lato, have
done a good job of dominating the back pages over the
last couple of months. Grzegorz Lato has rarely been
out of the news since his controversial appointment,
and in January a court in Szczecin heard evidence that
his election in October failed to observe the minutiae of
the voting process. Even if the former Polish international
survives this storm, reports in the newspaper Polska
suggest that representatives of the Ministry of Sport
are due to convene to discuss Lato’s future. Lato edged
out the fan and government favourite Zbigniew Boniek in
October’s flash election, and has so far caused rumbles of
discontent for his ongoing feud with national manager, Leo
Beenhakker, and his apparent lack of action in the battle
against domestic corruption. On their part, any moves by
the government to squeeze Lato out of a job will be monitored closely by UEFA and FIFA. Back in 2008 football’s
international authorities came within a whisker of banning
Poland from international football, as well as withdrawing
Poland’s right to stage Euro 2012, following interference in
footballing matters by the Ministry of Sport. Lato’s latest
woes have been compounded with revelations made in
sport.pl that the PZPN were aware that corruption was
rife in Polish football for years, but failed to take any action. Nonetheless, in spite of the criticism – or maybe
because – the last months have seen a number of high
profile names brought to book over corruption, including
legendary Poznan forward Piotr Reiss, a former national
coach and a Champions League referee.
Lato’s nemesis, the Polish national coach Leo Beenhakker, continues to live on borrowed time, with latest press
reports suggesting the wheels have already been set in
motion to find his permanent replacement. Latest speculation suggests that the Polish FA (PZPN) have already
sounded out the US based Polish/American coach Piotr
Nowak with regards the position, though Gregorz Lato,
head of the PZPN, has remained tight-lipped on the matter
claiming all that concerns him currently is Poland’s campaign to qualify for the 2010 World Cup. Nowak currently
serves as assistant coach to the American national side,
as well as coach to the Under 23s, and allegedly turned
down the opportunity to manage Poland in the wake of
the 2006 World Cup debacle.
Beenhakker’s position has looked increasingly shaky
following the election of Lato to the FA helm, and relations
hit rock bottom in December following remarks made by
the Dutchman about PZPN big shot Antoni Piechniczek.
In spite of a poor showing in Euro 2008 Beenhakker remains a popular figure among fans, and the reinvigorated
national side currently look on course to qualify for the
World Cup in 2010. In spite of being linked to a string
of vacant posts in England Beenhakker has spelt out
his desire to remain in Poland, even if the PZPN opt to
sack him. That’s looking increasingly likely, with Lato left
seething after Beenhakker announced in February he was
accepting the role of Technical Director at Dutch giants
Feyenoord. Beenhakker remains unrepentant, claiming
that moonlighting for Feyenoord doesn’t break the conditions of his contract with Poland: ‘I can do what I want in
my spare time. There is no signed contract between me
and Feyenoord, and I get no money from them’.
The national side return to competitive action on March
28 away to Northern Ireland. As things stand Poland are
second in their World Cup qualifying group.
Poznań In Your Pocket
NIGHTLIFE
Muchos Patatos D-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. 061 851 91
73, www.muchos.pl. Adobe coloured walls come decorated
with tile-shard mosaics and as evenings progress a lively
student crowd squeeze in to party like there’s no manana to a
background of salsa and Latin rhythms, strong shots of tequila
encouraging never-before-attempted dance moves. QOpen
18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PA
Piano Bar C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shop-
ping Mall), tel. 061 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.
pl. The perfect spot to take clients. A clean cream interior
punctuated by some well chosen local art. The mobile drinks
cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emergency
surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are decked
out suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEW
Piwnica 21 (The Cellar 21) D-2, ul. Wielka 21, tel.
061 852 29 26, www.piwnica21.pl. A vast underground
bar that is nothing more than your archetypal student beer
hall. You’ll occasionally hear jazz performances above the
din, and Piwnica 21 features all the expected extras: sticky
floors, bare bones basic furniture, and some flashing arcade
machines. Always a fun night, though don’t go making plans for
a bright start the following morning. QOpen 17:00 - 01:30,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. JEW
Pod Minogą B-1, ul. Nowowiejskiego 8, tel. 061 852 79
22. Formerly Poznan’s premier bar noir, what was once a dogeared local legend has since been gentrified and refurbished.
The dishevelled decor of yesteryear has disappeared, replaced
instead by a brick bar, naked girders and floorboards that no longer
squeak. To their credit the clientele stubbornly persist in honouring
the artistic legacy, with charity shop fashions and roll-up cigarettes
glued to their fingers. The music policy is as alternative as ever,
but one can’t help but think the glory years have passed.QOpen
12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 09:00. PA
Post Dali B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 40, tel. 061 855 21 03,
www.postdali.pl. Open till late, very late, Post Dali is the
final word in Poznań by night, and frequently the undoing of
those who visit; our notes from our visit being little more than
scribbles that suggest a good time was had. There’s a few
points to set it aside from the competition, the first being
it’s sky high location - find it occupying a chunk of the tenth
and eleventh floors of a Poznań office block, with views that
stretch across the city. House and Electro sounds keep the
party going till memory fades, with a committed crowd lapping
up the mayhem that ensues. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 05:00. PEW
Proletaryat D-2, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. 061 852 48
58/0 508 17 36 08, www.proletaryat.pl. Who cares
that Stalin was umpteen times the villain that Hitler ever was,
this commie-themed bar is an essential stop-off for any pub
crawler. Socialist paradise this most certainly is, with portraits
of Soviet leaders aplenty, and an even a bust of Lenin peering from the window. Drink quality local brews while Russkie
marching bands strike up from the speakers, and peruse the
manifestos and cold war keepsakes lined up along the walls.
QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. PJAX
Puzon C-2, Stary Rynek 9/10, tel. 061 851 05 40. Find
Poznań’s jazz fans slumming it inside a grubby space that
transforms as night draws in. During daylight hours this place
assumes the look of a bare college common room, complete
with tatty posters and tables scattered at random. Once
evening settles Puzon takes on a pleasing red tint as tables
fill with students aspiring to musical greatness.QOpen
09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JX
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9
(Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.
sheraton.pl/poznan. Qube is the lobby bar of the Sheraton,
and the perfect primer for pre-restaurant cocktails or while
counting down the minutes before Someplace Else opens. The
staff are top drawer, proved by the creation of the best mojito
we’ve found in town, while the low bar side seats refuse to let
you leave until you’ve tried one too many of their lethal vodkas.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PAUW
Room 55 C-2, Stary Rynek 80/82, tel. 061 855 32
24, www.room55.pl. On the ground floor find a decent bar
where the business world meet for after work drinks, as well
as an overpriced menu presented by scurrying blondes. Head
downstairs to see where the crowd moves when it gets to the
business end of the night. Find a long cellar bar with wooden
barrels to park yourself on, and enough space to impress with
your dance trickery. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PJAUBW
Sami Swoi C-2, Stary Rynek 99/100, tel. 061 855
21 65, www.samiswoi-klub.com. From the outside Sami
Swoi appears to be a traditional restaurant, filled with stripey
wallpaper, oil paintings and other prim touches. And while you
can eat here this place packs out primarily with a young, noisy
crowd looking to drink into the next day. Don’t be startled to
hear the local karaoke kings doing their party pieces. QOpen
10:00 - 05:00. PJAW
Sarp D-2, Stary Rynek 56, tel. 061 853 24 64, www.
sarp-klub.pl. Entering Sarp is like walking into a migraine.
Everything here is orange, plastic and flimsy, and the staff
don’t do much to inspire repeat visits - asking what goes into
a White Russian is bad enough, using UVH milk to then make it
an error of schoolboy proportions. On the plus side they open
late and serve beer, at times that’s all you need.Q Open
16:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00-03:00. From April Open11:0001:00, Fri, Sat 11:00-03:00. AE
Shark C-1, Stary Rynek 48, tel. 061 851 94 80, www.shark.
ecom.net.pl. A chic designer space with a sparkling bar that wondrously seems to spread from floor to ceiling. Find sexy bedroom
music, stick thin girls and salmon walls inside this smashig split
level venue. Beauty police work the door, so dress accordingly.
QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. JAW
89:)*3987:1*.3
842*51&(**18*
439-:78)&>8
50% discount upon showing
student license on Thursday
Look for this stamp
on the SomePlace Else menu
Watch all sport events on 6 LCDs
and the biggest screen in Poznan
SomePlace Else E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton
Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/
poznan. The quintessential expat bar and a lifeline to your
parallel life abroad. The layout here is simple, diner décor
featuring all the Route 66 extras and rock’n’roll pics. Setting
it aside are Sky Sports, Poznań’s best burger and a line up
of live music acts that lead the party to its inevitably blurry
conclusion. Blame your amnesia on the bar staff, some of the
best in the business, and while SPE is not a cheap night a
trip here is just the medicine if you’ve had one of those days
where you’re tempted to book the next ticket out of Poland.
QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEXW
The Dubliner A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (entrance
from Al. Niepodległości), tel. 061 851 01 69, www.
dubliner.com.pl. Possibly the largest pub in town, certainly
the emptiest. Accommodated inside the basement of the
Zamek building The Dubliner features stained glass windows,
a model train circling above the bar and wall specially painted
to feign years of tobacco smoke. This is a clinical attempt
to bring Ireland to Poland, and one that fails to capture the
intimacy and buzz of their rival Celt pub, Brogan’s.QOpen
12:00 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAE
poznan.inyourpocket.com
SomePlace Else
Bukowska 3/9, 60-809 Poznan, Tel. 061 655 2000
gss.poznan@sheraton.com
Open daily from 5pm, on Sundays from 12:00
(enter through the main door of Sheraton)
March - June 2009
57
58
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
The Fire Place Lounge E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9
Cuba Libre C-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. 061 852 31
U Honzika B-3, ul. Taczaka 21, tel. 0 504 03 72 19,
Cute H-3, ul. Wielka 27/29, tel. 061 851 91 37, www.
(Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. 061 655 20 00, www.
sheraton.pl/poznan. A tiny side room of the Sheraton
houses this gem, where cur v y seating is complimented
by violet dash es, mirrors and dark polish ed woods.
I t’s completel y lu xurious, and the presence of a roaring fireplace makes i t highl y tempting to open a book
and forget any looming appointments. Q Open 09:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
PAUSW
www.honzik.pl. If you’re going to drink in the student
ghetto then do so in here. What looks like a seedy basement bar is actually one of the finest places in the world - a
cracking Czech pub with smoke stained walls and plenty of
football paraphernalia. There’s Zlatopramen lager on tap,
though real drinkers are going to look in the fridge - filled
to bursting with hard-to-find brews hailing from Lithuania
and the Ukraine. Either stand shoulder to shoulder with
the students at the bar, or penetrate the back room to
sit on rough-cut wooden stools.QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
Closed Sun. PX
Whisky Bar C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel.
061 852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. A subterranean
tunnel shaped bar, boasting what is apparently the largest
collection of whisky in the country. Found inside the guts of
the Dom Vikingów complex Whisky Bar comes replete with
polished wooden fittings, and staff who can confidently
talk you through the enormous choice of drinks. QOpen
21:00 - 03:00, Thu 21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Sun. PAEW
Poznań Model
Poznań Model (Makieta Poznania) C-2, ul.
Franciszkańska 2 (basement of the Franciscan
Church, entrance from Ludgarda Street), tel. 061
855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. A huge model
that shows Poznań in its form as presented in BrauHogenburg’s picture sketched in 1618. Constructed
over a period of six years the model takes up a space
of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of
kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up
the school seats around it as they wait for the show to
begin. As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins
and visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of
Poznań’s development. Foreigners get given headsets to
listen to heavily accented commentary in the language
of their choice, though this is at times drowned out
by hilarious background noise that includes medieval
soldiers screaming in agony. Great fun that shouldn’t be
missed. Q Shows last 30 minutes and start every 45
minutes between 09:30 and 17:00. From June 1 Open
09:30-19:15. and by prior arrangement. Admission 12zł,
groups over 20 people 9zł per person.
Poznań In Your Pocket
W Starym Kinie (In The Old Cinema) B-1, ul. Nowowiejskiego 8, tel. 061 852 22 41, www.wstarymkinie.pl.
Out front pub poets and film buffs sit within plum coloured
walls, eyeing decorations that include film reels, projectors
and cinema seats. Any overspill gets lumped in the powder
blue back room, where only a few token posters cheer up
a rather lonely looking space. Regular screenings of cult
classics attract a crowd of budding film critics. QOpen
10:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 05:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00,
Sun 18:00 - 02:00. AEW
Za Kulisami (Behind The Backstage) D-2, ul. Wodna
24, tel. 061 853 23 97. Embedded in local folklore, Za
Kulisami is a drinking institution. The scraps of faded paper
behind the bar are travelers notes from the days before
Skype - remember them - and the shelves groan under the
weight of broken-spined books and Paddington Bear style
suitcases. Inside the gloom and plumes of smoke a crowd
of all extractions congregate to drink amid cow skins and
empty birdcages. This is drinking the way the gods would
have wanted. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00,
Sun 18:00 - 01:00. J
Clubs
NEW
Bee D-2, ul. Wielka 18, tel. 0 507 06 80 84, www.
beeclub.pl. A great looking bar which morphs into a club
the moment the calendar flicks to Friday. Honey colours and
rounded circular shapes lend a mildly retro tone, and the seats
are among the most comfortable in town; enjoy them while
you can, it’s odds on they’ll be scarred with lager stains and
cigarette burns by the time the year is out. House, funk and
lounge sounds fit into the background, while an over 21 door
policy does the job of freezing the riff raff out. QOpen 11:30 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAXW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
57, www.cuba-libre.pl. Set down a shadowy courtyard
basement the newly expanded Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin
venue replete with the requisite pics of Che, as well as cheerful
orange lighting casting down on the crowd. The disco Latino
nights on Friday and Saturday prove seriously popular, though
if you’ve got two left feet then consider attending one of their
salsa and samba classes held earlier in the week.QOpen
20:00 - 03:00, Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri 20:00 - 05:00, Sat
20:00 - 06:00. PEW
cute.poznan.pl. Found inside the guts of an old town cellar
Cute plays the best nu-house sounds in Poznań, which to
the rank and prole translates as dance tracks that are way
too cool to chart. Watch the hourglass figures take to the
dance floor while reclining from the safety of the red leather
ottomans and sofas. Strange shapes and sounds aplenty,
adding to the feeling that the pills are about to hit. QOpen
20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
PJAE
Czarna Owca C-2, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel. 0 502 28
77 55, www.czarnaowca.com.pl. A local institution.
Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar, downstairs a hot
labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more challenging than
chart hits, though they do occasionally draw reputable DJ’s,
and the crowd hell-bent on tipping lots of booze down their
gobhole.QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.
PJAUX
DV Club C-2, Stary Rynek 62 (Dom Vikingów), tel. 061
852 71 53, www.domvikingow.pl. An upmarket cellar bar
beneath Dom Vikingów, where monied expats try their faltering Polish on local blondynkas. A spotless wooden interior is
interspersed with token rustic junk and a unicycle nailed to
the wall. As the flashing disco light suggests, you’ll find DJs
entering the fray each weekend.QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Thu
21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PJAEW
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Emforiu D-1, ul. Kramarska 18, tel. 060 179 45 58,
www.emforiu.pl. Although it helps to have pneumatic
breasts and an expensive wardrobe Poznań’s latest headline
grabber is open to all; from local big shots to students pooling
their coins together for a lager. A glowing dance floor pulsates
with rainbow lights while local DJs serve up a feast of house
noise to the mass of wriggling bodies. It’s a clever set up
here, with plenty of red vinyl, stark hospital white colours
and revolving disco balls creating a great backdrop for the
weekend excess that awaits. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PW
IQ C-2, ul. Wrocławska 4, tel. 061 851 06 22, www.
iqclub.pl. A grubby, tunnel-like cellar club that grabs the
attention with a poster outside advertising two zloty beer.
Equipped with a reddish glow and a smoky mist this place
wakes up each weekend, when some of the biggest names in
Poland show up to play electro, trance and oldskool hardcore.
Don’t bother dressing up, hooded tops are worn like signs
of courage.QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. JE
Klub Charyzma D-2, ul. Ślusarska 6, tel. 061 851 79
48, www.charyzma.poznan.pl. It’s all a bit Planet of the
Apes in Charyzma, a big, brash venue where local lads head
to see whose nuts dangle lowest as they bid to impress the
local talent. The design is concrete and steel - with the occasional mannequin sticking out of an air vent - and the music
is limited to commercial dance tracks. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00,
Wed 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEW
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
59
60
WHAT TO SEE
NIGHTLIFE
Essential Poznań
DISCOVER A WARM PLACE OF POSITIVE VIBES IN POZNAN
Open: Tue-Sat 19.00-3.00, Sun 22.00-6.00
Reservation: (061)8515151, 0502273225
Poznan, Sw. Marcin 28
www.metropolitanclub.pl
www.wix.com/metropolitanclub/re-aktywacja
metropolitanclub@gmail.com
Metropolitan Club B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 28, tel. 061
851 51 51, www.metropolitanclub.pl. Give your latest
dance waggles their debut in Metropolitan, a dazzling club
space with lots of violet vanilla dashes, swooping beams of
light and razor clawed platinum pussycats on display. The
management have gone for the scattergun approach, with
different days bringing in different sounds - Tuesday - hiphop; Wednesday - live music, cinema; Thursday - students
party; Friday, Saturday - 60s to 00 party; Sunday - afterparty.
QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PA
Sansibar D-2, ul. Wodna 12, tel. 0 694 41 30 72, www.
sansibar.pl. Another student drinking dungeon in which
patrons shout, scream and gesticulate over the din of disco
hits of yesteryear. Dark, cramped and noisy the overall effect isn’t unlike sitting in a cupboard with the Village People.
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
PJAE
UFOs
Wielkopolska is something of a hotspot for the paranormal, and it’s not just the ghosts we’ve warned you about
that go bump in the night. The district has also earned a
bit of a reputation for UFOs (or NOLs as they are called in
Poland). To date the most infamous case can be tracked
to 2001 when a 20 year old woman happened upon an
alien near Sieraków Lake. The 1.5 metre tall mantis-like
extra-terrestrial allegedly stared emotionlessly into the
eyes of the startled female before beating a speedy
retreat into the surrounding cornfields. Small footprints
were found the following day at the site, though efforts
to later identify them drew a blank. Most recently reports
of aerial weirdness have been filed in the region of Lake
Malta, as well as Jeżyce Forest. Świerkowski claims that
95% of such claims can be put down to changes in atmosphere that mankind simply hasn’t discovered yet, though
the other 5% of sightings remain an utter mystery. Real
enthusiasts though will head nowhere else but Wylatowo,
a small rural village situated halfway between Toruń and
Poznań. It’s in this backwater a strange cigar shaped
object was photographed floating in the skies last year,
with lab tests since confirming that there were no camera
tricks or other such jiggery pokery involved. But that’s
not the only peculiar happening; since 2000 when crop
circles first started appearing in the neighbouring fields
Wylatowo has established itself as a mecca for Polski
ufologists, While some claim the circles are the work of
savvy farmers looking to make a quick buck X-Files style
investigations have yet to determine the cause of this
annual summer phenomena.
Poznań In Your Pocket
Monday - private parties
Tueasday - Hip-hop
Wednesday - live concerts, movie evenings
Thursday - Student Party, DJ LIVE
Friday/Saturday - clubbing, DJ LIVE
Sunday - AFTER PARTY
For everyone over 21
- safe, comfortable ambiance
- great drinks, reasonably priced
- best music of the 60s to today
SQ C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. 061 859 65 78, www.sqk-
lub.pl. Poznan’s most famous club, and packed with enough
pin-up girls to have your head spinning like a periscope. An
expensive wardrobe and silly haircut are essential, and while
the design is nothing special the nights here most certainly
are. DJs arrive from across Poland to play here, sometimes
even further, and it’s certainly the premier place in town to
puff the chest out and strut about like a big time Bertie. Find
it in the basement of the Stary Browar shopping centre.
QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PAE
Tapas D-2, Stary Rynek 60, tel. 061 852 85 32, www.
tapas.pl. A design masterstroke, the hi-tech interior is
quite unlike any thing Poznań has seen before. Full of
glass flooring, shimmery baubles and mosaic surfaces
the Tapas Club is a futuristic space, and decorated with
suggestive scarlet and granite black colours. Also, a roped
off VIP section as well as staff capable of creating the right
cocktails for the right moment. House music every Friday,
and tracks from the 60s, 70s and 80s on Saturday’s.
QOpen , Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. PJA
Terytorium D-1, ul. Mokra 7, tel. 061 853 02 92,
www.klubterytorium.pl. Drink lukewarm beer alongside
youths with fake ID in what is too all intents and purposes
a glorified school disco. Come weekends the cobbled
flooring and vast bar area become the fiefdom of off-duty
students, and the toilets the territory of sozzled lads philosophizing on the girls outside.QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. PAI
Tokyo Underground C-2, ul. Wrocławska 23, tel.
0601 70 22 40, www.tokyo-underground.pl. To call
the design minimal would be an understatement. There’s
a couple of signs from the Tokyo Underground and that’s
about it; the rest of this place is London grey with a few
exposed pipes and brick walls on show. Fortunately the
music is cracking, with great electro sets played to a
committed crowd of local hedonists. Sod the design,
this looks set to become one of the liveliest nights in
the calendar. Q Open 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
PAE
Post-pub soakage?
Kebabs, Burgers, Lager and Vomit
Quick Eats on page 34
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly wandering the
network of streets and alleyways, making chance discoveries
from one turn to the next. That said there are a number of
must-see sights that should not be left to chance. Your
natural start point should by the main square, the glorious
Rynek. Taking centre stage is the Old Town Hall (C-2,
Stary Rynek 1). Today it houses the Historical Museum
of Poznań. Other museums you’ll find in the square include
the Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (D-2, Stary
Rynek 84), which honours one of Poland’s best known
authors, the Musical Instruments Museum (D-2, Stary
Rynek 45-47), the Military Museum (D-2, Stary Rynek 9),
and the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (C-2, Stary Rynek
3) which chronicles the 1918 Uprising.
Other museums of note in the city include the excellent
Archeological Museum (D-2, ul. Wodna 27) whose
collection includes Egyptian mummies and obelisks
and charts life in Ancient Egypt and prehistoric Poland.
Art fans should head to the National Museum (C-2, al.
Marcinkowskiego 9), and don’t miss a visit to the Poznań
Model (C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2).
Churches are omnipresent, no more so than on Ostrów
Tumski. The island is dominated by the Cathedral (Ostrów
Tumski 17) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. Trek
back to the old town though to find Poznań’s most impressive
church: that of St Stanislaus (C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1).
Poznań was also affected deeply by the war, and a visit to
the former Gestapo penal camp (Wielkopolska Martyrs
Museum, Al. Polska) is a disturbing daytrip. Hardly more
uplifting is the Poznań Army Museum (G-1, Poznań Citadel),
which aside from boasting displays of modern military
hardware documents the defence of Poznań in 1939.
The Synagogue
Amazingly, what
wa s on c e t h e
prin cipal s y nago gu e i n t o w n
can still be visi ted, albei t in a
ra th er di fferen t
capaci t y than
originally intended. Consecrated
on September 5, 1907 the New Synagogue on ul.
Wroniecka was a lavish structure designed by Berlin
architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective, the cost of
the Imperial Castle came to five million). Holding 1,200
worshippers (600 men, 600 women) it was financed
by the Jewish superrich and included a copper-plated
dome and a floor plan based on the Greek cross. Following the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming
pool and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers.
Although returned to the Jewish community in 2002
it still functions as a municipal pool – leading some
wags to re-christen it the ‘swimagogue’. Of late plans
have been mooted to convert it into a community
centre complete with prayer halls, a kosher restaurant
and conference facilities. Delaying the development
is the problem of raising US$50 million, so for the
time being at least, bring your swimming togs if you
fancy a look round.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Essential Poznan
Old Town Hall
(Ratusz) C-2, Stary
Rynek 1, tel. 061
856 81 91, www.
mnp.ar t.pl. Firs t
built at the beginning
of the 14th century,
the seat of Poznań’s
municipal authorities
was rebuil t following the great fire of
1536. Italian architect, Giovanni Quadro
of Lugano, was commissioned to oversee
the reconstruction,
and a renaissance
loggia and attic were
added, offset by a
classical tower. Once
revered as the most
Lena Wachacka
b eau ti ful b uil din g Town hall
north of the Alps, the
town hall has been beset by a catalogue of disasters. A fire
in 1675, a hurricane in 1725 and then bomb damage during
WWII mean that little of the original structure remains. The
oldest surviving parts are the cellars with their early-Gothic
cross-vaulted ceilings. Today it houses the Historical Museum
of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits from the
10th century till the present day. The biggest draw is the Great
Entrance Hall with its elaborately decorated vault, supported
by two huge pillars. The tableaux are inspired by the bible,
astrology and figures from mythology. The crowds you’ll see
gathering outside the building at noon are waiting for the two
mechanical billy goats to emerge. On Sundays and holidays,
a bugle call also comes from the tower; legend has it that
a town-hall bugler took care of the King of Ravens, and in
return the birds helped to save the city during a siege. Directly
outside the town hall is a whipping post, dating from 1535. It
was here that miscreants were
whipped, executed or led to the
city boundaries before being
banished from Poznań. The
figure standing on top depicts
the executioner of Poznań, and
funds for the statue were raised
from fines levied on maids who
would dress above their station.
Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri
12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 5.50/3.50zł,
Pillory
A. Webber
Sat free.
Ostrów Tumski This island is where the city originated
and ‘where Poland began’ according to Pope John Paul II.
Legend has it that three Slav brothers called Lech, Czech
and Rus met at this island having not seen each other for
years. The city was named to commemorate their reunion,
poznać being Polish for ‘to meet’. A castle was built on the
island in the 9th century, and by the 10th century it had
become a major centre of the Piast state. This is the spot
where Poland adopted Catholic baptism and where the first
bishopric was established in 968. Mieszko I and Bolesław
Chrobry, the founders of the Polish state, are buried in the
cathedral. Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications
are still visible on the Cybina riverside.
March - June 2009
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62
WHAT TO SEE
The Castle (Zamek)
A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82,
tel. 061 646 52 76, www.
zamek.poznan.pl. Construction on Poznań’s fearsome
castle began in 1905, with the
keys officially handed over to
Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Designed by Franz Schwechten
the building was built following neo-Roman aesthetic with living
quarters for the Kaiser located in the west wing, and the throne
room in the east. The small park and rose garden in the back was
inspired by the Lion’s Courtyard in the Alhambra. Between the
wars it became the seat of Poznań University though Poznań’s
incorporation into the Third Reich saw sweeping changes. Albert
Speer, Hitler’s pet architect set to work transforming the castle,
with a view of turning the tower chapel into the Fuhrer’s office,
and the second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser (Nazi
governor of the Warthegau district). By 1944 renovation work
had finished, with all the original interiors completely remodelled.
The castle was badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and
there was even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing
the principal tower to a third of its original height. Used by the
university in the two years following the war, and then as the
seat of local government, the castle building has operated as a
cultural centre since 1962. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission depending on repertoire.
WHAT TO SEE
Churches
Cathedral I-3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. 061 852 96 42,
www.katedra.archpoznan.org.pl. Poland’s first bishopric
was established in Poz in 968AD, and from 1138-1295
Poznań briefly operated as the home of Poland’s Royal Court.
The oldest point of interest is Ostrów Tumski, and though
nothing remains of the 9th century fortress that once stood
here the cathedral, Poland’s first, is open to visitors. The
cathedral has had a tough time, destroyed and remodeled
numerous times, though the crypt has survived the vicissitudes of time and contains the bodies of Poland’s first
rulers - Mieszko I and Bolesław the Great. A Romanesque
cathedral was built on the spot in the 12th century and a
Gothic structure went up in 1356-1410; in 1772 it received
Late Baroque additions and classicist façade. Burnt down
in 1945, it was reconstructed in 1946-1955 in the Gothic
style. The oldest remains are in the cathedral crypt, where
you can see sections of excavated walls that date back to
the founding of Poland. St. Stanislaus’ Chapel features an
epitaph by sculptor Marian Konieczny; each November 1 a
special mass in the chapel celebrates the souls of the kings
and princes buried here. The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament
houses several outstanding examples of Renaissance sculpture, including the multilevel tomb of the Gorka family. St.
Martin’s Chapel houses a painting by Poznań artist Krzysztof
Boguszewski of the saint entering Amiens. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00. No visiting during mass please.
The Old Town Square (Stary
Rynek) C/D-1/2, . The Old Town
Square was the centre of old Poznań,
and to this day is rich in historic
architecture, museums and restaurants. Around 60 per cent of the
old town was flattened during WWII,
though most of the houses were
meticulously rebuilt in the 1950s
following Baroque and Renaissance
styles. Aside from the two concrete
carbuncles planted needlessly in the
middle, the town square remains one of the most picturesque
in Central Europe. Behind the town hall lies the City Scales
building that once housed the hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to the market.
Keep your eyes peeled for several interesting buildings that
rim the Rynek:
Stary Rynek 43 - Poznań’s oldest chemist, Under the White
Eagle has been operating since 1564.
Stary Rynek 48 - Originally built in the 12th century the
house boasts the oldest gothic cellars in the city. During
the 16th century it was residence of town mayor Kacper
Goski. Author of Plague in the Air, Goski also dabbled in
astrology. His unlikely, but ultimately accurate, prediction
of the Turkish defeat at the Battle of Lepanto immortalized
him across Europe.
Stary Rynek 50 - Worth noting for its gothic façade and the
small portico over the doorway. During a bawdy drinking bout
King August II of Saxony tumbled out
of the window; the roof broke his fall
and saved his life. Nearby a tablet
marks the level that floodwaters
reached in 1736.
Stary Rynek 52 - Once owned by
Mikołaj Ridt, the trader was apparently turned into a werewolf after a
foul-mouthed outburst directed at a
neighbouring convent. Following war
damage the house was rebuilt in 1945
in renaissance style.
Poznań In Your Pocket
to the early 16th century and features a stellar vault and
neo-Gothic furnishings. In the small courtyard outside the
presbytery you`ll find the entrance to the Jesuit Gallery, where
you can see the mannerist interiors of the library, cloister and
Chapel of St. Hyacinth. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. No visiting
during mass please.
Fr a n c i s c a n C h u r c h
( K o ś c i ó ł Fr a n c i s z kanów)
C-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2,
tel. 061 852 36 37, www.
of mconv.opoka.or g.pl/
poznan. Erected 1674-1728.
Hidden behind the bland exterior is a riot of baroque decoration, with car ved wood,
stucco and paintings by local
monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni, designed the high
altar and ornamented stalls.
Lavish decorations aside,
visitors flock to the church to
see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous picture
of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as the Lady
of Poznań, for 300 years. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00.
Parish Church of St. Stanislaus (Kościół Farny
Św. Stanisława Biskupa) C/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1, tel.
061 852 69 50, www.fara.archpoznan.org.pl. One of
Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments, the Parish
Church of St. Stanislaus was created as a Jesuit temple in the
17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who
of Roman Baroque artists. The striking interior is 55 metres
long, 35 metres wide and 27 metres high, with huge columns
providing dramatic light-and-shade effects. Fine specimens
of Baroque ornamentation can be fond in the chapels of the
Holy Cross, which features a 16th-century crucifix, and the
Virgin Mary, which has a precious copy of the painting of The
Mother of God of Incessant Help. Every Saturday at 12:15,
the church hosts an organ concert played on an instrument
dating to 1876. QOpen 06:00 - 19:30. No visiting during
mass please.
St. Adalbert`s Church (Kościół Św. Wojciecha)
Corpus Christi Church (Kościół Bożego Ciała)
H-4, ul. Strzelecka 40, tel. 061 852 32 00, www.
bozecialo.poznan.pl. A strange legend attaches to the
church, involving the theft and unsavoury use of three
three communion wafers. The unfortunate wafers were
later found on the common, and King Władysław Jagiełło
had the Gothic Church of Corpus Christi erected on the
spot. Construction ended in 1470 and renovations were
added during the Baroque period. The Gothic elevations
and Baroque gable and tower are preserved in their original
state. Points of interest include paintings of King Jagiełło
and Queen Hedwig from 1685, the high altar designed by
Pompeo Ferrari, and the Baroque Chapel of the Virgin Mary.
To this day, Corpus Christi processions are remarkably
colourful and impressive, with the local houses brightly
decorated and women and girls wearing Bamberg costumes. Q Open during mass only.
Dominican Church (Kościół Dominikański) A-1, Al.
Niepodległości 20, tel. 061 852 31 34, www.poznan.
dominikanie.pl. Built in the 13th century, this church was
later given a Baroque interior, tower and gables. The stalls
feature sculpted mannerist scenes from the legends of Saints
Dominic and Hyacinth. The Late Gothic Rosary Chapel dates
poznan.inyourpocket.com
G-3, ul. Św. Wojciecha 11, tel. 061 852 69 85. This small,
uniquely-shaped Gothic building was constructed in the early
15th century and is notable for its adjacent wooden belfry
and Art Nouveau murals. The high altar features a Late Gothic
relief of the assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the other
altars are manneristic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923
it has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska,
the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words of
the Polish national anthem, and the urn containing General
Jan Henryk Dąbrowski`s heart. The church also contains the
sarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the famous doctor and
social activist. Every Christmas, visitors come to see the
nativity scene with its mechanical figures of Polish kings,
scholars, artists and other national heroes. Q Open by
prior arrangement.
St. Francis of Assissi Church (Kościół Św. Franciszka z Asyżu) D-3, ul. Garbary 22, tel. 061 851 26
00, www.franciszkanie.net. This church was built in the late
17th century on a spot chosen according to the principles of
Baroque town planning. Its two-towered façade, designed
by Jan Adam Stier and decorated with figures of saints, was
added in the early 18th century. The original furnishings and
decorations were destroyed in the war and replaced with
replicas. QOpen 06:30 - 19:00.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
St. John of Jerusalem Church (Kościół Św. Jana
Jerozolimskiego) J-3, ul. Świetojańska 1, tel. 061 877 17
17. The oldest standing church in Poznań and the city’s secondoldest building after the Cathedral. It was built for the Knights of
Malta at the turn of the 12th century in the Romanesque style,
with the nave and presbytery in a Venedic arrangement. After
a fire in 1512 a star-vaulted ceiling was built over the nave and
a nave and tower were added to the north side. Age aside, the
building’s main draw is a rare Late Gothic painted triptych from
the early 16th century. Q Open 07:00-08:00, 17:45-19:00.
St. Joseph`s Church (Kościół Św. Józefa) G-2, ul.
Działowa 25 (St. Wojciech Hill), tel. 061 852 92 93,
www.karmelici.info. Opposite St. Adalbert’s Church you’ll
find St. Joseph’s, a Carmelite church whose late 17th century
design typifies the Wielkopolska Baroque style. It houses the
grave of Mikolaj Skrzetuski, who defended the town of Zbaraż
against the Tartars and Cossacks in 1649 and inspired the
main character in Henryk Sienkiewicz’s novel, With Fire and
Sword. Q Open by prior arrangement.
St. Martin`s Church (Kościół Św. Marcina) C-2/3, ul.
Św. Marcin 13, tel. 061 852 32 63, www.marcinpoznan.
hg.pl. First mention of a church standing on the site dates from
1252 though it owes its current Gothic look from the 16th century.
Although this was Poznań’s most damaged church in WWII its
interior is still a sight to behold. The wooden Gothic sculpture of the
Madonna in the nave dates back to 1510, and the Gothic Silesian
altar triptych is from 1498. Don’t miss the grotto that stands outside the church, built in 1911 after the vicar Tadeusz Wierbiński was
miraculously cured of blindness by the healing waters of Lourdes.
The grotto was built in thanks, and features a garden gnome like
figure kneeling in front of Jesus. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. No visiting during mass please.
Jewish Poznan
The history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the first days
of the city though like so many other towns in Central and
Eastern Europe this heritage was all but extinguished
with the horrors that came with Hitler’s rise. The Nazi’s
were meticulous in their destruction of Jewish heritage
and today traces of it are few and far between. The early
19th century cemetery on ul. Głogowska was destroyed
by the Nazis, the tombstones used to pave roads,
and the area found itself incorporated into the Trade
Fair grounds after the war. A special dispensation was
granted to exhume hundreds of bodies, and today you’ll
find them buried in the municipal cemetery in Miłostowo.
However in recent times steps have been taken to
commemorate the existence of the former graveyard,
and in November of last year a memorial plaque was
unveiled on ul. Głogowska 26a. Most recently, on June
3, 2008, a ceremony took place to unveil an ohel marking the hitherto unmarked grave of Rabbi Akiva Eiger,
commonly accepted as being Poznań’s greatest ever
Rabbi. Previously used as a parking lot, the site of his
grave has now been turned into a grassy square, and
has also been renamed to honour his memory. The fate
of the Jews who perished in the stadium labour camp
is commemorated by a memorial which stands by the
Multikino, and Poznań’s only functioning prayer house
can be visited on ul. Stawna 10.
www.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
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WHAT TO SEE
The Great Escape
Found some 150km southwest of Poznań, the town of
Zagan was the site of one of the most celebrated prison
breakouts of all time. Immortalised in the 1963 Hollywood
blockbuster, The Great Escape, the daring break from
the Nazi prisoner-of-war camp Stalag Luft III has since
been ingrained into English and Commonwealth culture.
Opened in 1942 outside the German town of Sagan (now
Polish Zagan), the camp was designed to hold thousands
of captured allied airmen, including the most persistent
escapees inside the Reich’s network of prisons. Undeterred by tight security a hardcore band of 250 POWs, led
by Squadron Leader Roger Bushell, planned to tunnel out
of the complex before setting off independently for neutral
territory. Even though the chances of success were slim,
Bushell hoped that the very notion of 250 allied airmen
loose inside the Third Reich would be enough to create
an internal security headache, hence diverting important
Nazi military resources.
Having assembled a team of forgers, craftsmen, tailors
and engineers Bushell’s ‘escape committee’ spent
months building a trio of tunnels, all the time averting
detection in what was to become a game of cat and
mouse with the camp guards. Using improvised materials
as diverse as tables, water cans and spoons, the tunnels
were a triumph of ingenuity. Displaying a meticulous attention to detail, Bushell and his cabal ensured escapees
were provided with civilian clothes, forged papers, currency and maps. Around 200 tonnes of sand and earth
were excavated, then carefully deposited in the exercise
yards by POWs with long bags hidden inside their trouser
legs, or inside the two other storage tunnels.
The tunnel was completed on March 24/25, 1944, but
unexpected air-raids and tunnel cave-ins allowed only 76
men to make it through before camp guards uncovered
the escape.
Those who did make it through set off on foot or by rail,
though poor directions and pitch darkness meant many
escapees hoping to catch trains couldn’t find the station
until daybreak - by which time the dye had been cast. In
total only two Norwegians and one Dutchman made it to
England. Of the rest of the escapees, 50 were executed,
17 were returned to Sagan, four were sent to Sachenhausen and two were delivered to Colditz.
In Poznań
Following cremation, the ashes of the executed men were
buried in the local cemetery - these were later moved to
the Old Garrison Cemetery in Poznan. To visit the graves
enter the cemetery at al. Niepodległości; turn right and
you’ll see a large white cross and the graves of most of the
murdered. A particular name to look for is that of Roger
Bushell, the driving force behind the escape.
In Żagan
The site of the original camp was until recently little more
than overgrown scrub. Thanks to the work of diehard
historians and RAF personnel Hut 104 – the barracks
from which the escape was hatched – has been fully
recreated to serve as a living memorial to those who
took part. Further plans include rebuilding part of the
tunnel. Other points of interest include original wash
basins and several foundations that can be found lying
among the weeds and foliage. For more info check out
www.thegreatescapememorialproject.com. Buses and
trains run daily from Poznań, though with journey time
weighing in at between 4 and 6 hours a day trip is a
far fetched idea.
Poznań In Your Pocket
WHAT TO SEE
Museums
Applied Ar ts Museum (Muzeum Sz tuk
Użytkowych) C-1, Góra Przemysła 1, tel. 061 852
20 35, www.mnp.art.pl. Housed in what was formerly the
Royal Castle of Poznań the route consists of three floors, the
cellars being dedicated to temporary exhibits. Permanent
exhibits include craftwork dating to medieval times, as well
as clothing, furniture, glass and clocks, with an emphasis on
decorations formerly housed in castles, palaces and other
moneybag domains. While most hail from European shores,
a few of the displays are as from as far as Japan. Of note are
a lion-shaped vessel to wash princely hands that dates from
18th century Saxony, as well as glass decanter produced in
1813 picturing a pre-Bomber Harris Dresden. QOpen 09:00
- 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 5.50/3.50zł, Sat free.
Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne)
I-2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. 061 852 61 95, www.
muzeum.poznan.pl. Arts and crafts, paintings, sculptures
and antiques. The oldest exhibits date from the 12th century.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission 6/4zł.
Archeological Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne)
D-2, ul. Wodna 27, (Pałac Górków), tel. 061 852 82 51,
www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Ever wanted to see the Egyptian
mummy of a woman called Hat? Then step right in. Poznań’s
Archaelogy Museum contains a collection of 42,000 rare
and mystifying objects that chart life in Ancient Egypt and
prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum takes you
through the earliest settlements in the region, with life-sized
figures as well as miniature-sized dioramas depicting life
from the Older Stone Age to the Iron Age. It’s here you’ll find
everything from flints and urns to models of hairy men holding
aloft dead rabbits. The other permanent exhibit, Death and
Life in Ancient Egypt, features 120 rare pieces - of note are
the granite obelisk of Rameses II the stands in the courtyard
outside, and the granite statue of the lion-headed god Sachmet. The section on death presents colourful coffins, guides
to the afterlife titled ‘Book of what is on the other side’ and
the mummified remains of Hat, a boy called Padiseb and
sacred animals including two cats, a falcon and a crocodile.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free. Guided tours by prior
arrangement 20zł. Audio guides avaliable in English for 12zł
per person.
Atelier of Józef Ignacy Kraszewski (Pracownia
Józefa Ignacego Kraszewskiego) D-1, ul. Wroniecka
14, tel. 061 855 12 44. Original manuscripts, over 200
rare first-editions and assorted writing equipment that once
belonged to the author of Stara Baśń (Old Legend), a fanciful
account of Polish prehistory. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Envir onment Museum (Muzeum Wiedzy o
Środowisku) E-3, ul. Bukowska 19, tel. 061 847 56
01, www.zbsril.poznan.pl. Displays of stuffed and mounted
Polish animals with accounts of their living habits, and information on indigenous plants. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sat. Admission free.
Historical Museum of Poznań (Muzeum Historii
Miasta Poznania) C-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. 061 852 56
13, www.mnp.art.pl. The show-stealing Town Hall proves a
fitting venue for a museum of this stature. The gothic cellars
- originally the municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to
the earliest times of settlement in the 10th century. On the
poznan.inyourpocket.com
ground floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits
covering the city’s urban and economic development during
that time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on
the first floor hold the most valuable documents and artifacts,
and the opulent vaulted ceilings - depicting griffins, lions and
eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone. Exhibits
include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a table clock
with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a globe from
1688 - resist the temptation to give it a spin lest you wish
to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of the second
floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the city was under
Prussian rule, and features everyday objects and portraits
of prominent citizens. The final part of the museum depicts
the history of 20th century Poznań, and exhibits include the
disturbing photograph of a swastika fluttering from the town
hall. A few posters from the Nazi era are on display, as well as
a scattering of pictures showing Poznań in ruins after Soviet
liberation, and the rebuilding efforts that followed. QOpen
09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 5,50/3,50zł, Sat free.
June 1956 Poznań Uprising Museum (Muzeum
Powstania Poznańskiego - Czerwiec 1956) A-2, ul.
Św. Marcin 82/80, tel. 061 852 94 64, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. The 1956 anti-communist demonstrations that took place in Poznań finally find themselves
honoured with a permanent exhibit inside the Zamek. Making
use of multi-media displays visitors are sucked back through
time as they wonder around a series of dioramas that include
a replica of a typical 50s flat, military vehicles and various
keepsakes recovered from the era. Numerous photos have
been collated, including the pictures of those killed, and a big
part of the exhibition is taken up by a fabulous collection of
socialist realist art from those times. Point of pride however is
reserved for the shirt of Roman Strzałkowski, a 13 year old boy
shot dead by militia forces during the rebellion. QOpen 9:00 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free.
Literary Museum of Henryk Sienkiewicz (Muzeum
Literackie Henryka Sienkiewicza) D-2, Stary Rynek
84, tel. 061 852 24 96. Winner of the Nobel Prize in 1905,
Sienkiewicz is best known as the author of Quo Vadis, a
birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50
languages. The museum is located in a house that once
belonged the Italian architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that’s his
bust you can see outside), and the collection is the life work
of Igancy Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after paying the ransom to free Sienkiewicz’s only son
from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the authors John
Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts,
correspondences and a collection of his novels including an
English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899. The opulent
rooms are crowded with chandeliers, portraits and period
furniture, his writing desk and pictures of our hero posing
with his series of wives. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Admission 3/2zł, Fri free.
Motoring Museum (Muzeum Motoryzacji) E-3,
Rondo Kaponiera, tel. 061 847 63 59, www.aw.poznan.
pl. A supreme example of how not to run a museum. The old
battleaxe sitting at the kasa ignored us, staring defiantly at
paperwork in spite of our plaintive rattling on the window and
a growing queue behind us. We gave up waiting, so we’ve no
idea if any exhibitions may have changed since our last visit.
Expect cars, of what sort we’ll leave you to find out. Found
in the subway beneath Rondo Kaponiera.QOpen 10:00 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon,
Thu. Admission 4/3,50zł.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Musical Instruments Museum (Muzeum Instrumentów Muzycznych) D-2, Stary Rynek 45-47,
tel. 061 852 08 57, www.mnp.art.pl. The only Polish
museum of professional and folk instruments, with over
2000 items from Poland and around the world. The ground
and first floors are given over to harmoniums and brass
and wooden wind instruments. The stringed instruments
inlcude a selection of lutes dating back to the 15th century.
A collection of 160 pianos illustrates the development of
the instrument from 1750 to the early 20th century. A
seperate room holds the relics of Frederic Chopin such as
documents and personal effects. The second floor rooms
contain Polish and European folk instruments as well as
fascinating instruments from all other continents. Rounding
off the exhibit is a collection of mechanical instruments:
music boxes, barrel organs, juke boxes, player pianos
and gramophones. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission
5,50/3,50zł, Sat free.
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-2, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. 061 852 59 69, www.mnp.
art.pl. An excellent museum with a rich collection of modern Polish art (including interesting impressionistic works)
in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch
and Flemish paintings in the connected old building. The
museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish art
(including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland. Selected paintings have extensive English explanations about the artist
and topic. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3.50zł,
Sat free.
Pharmaceutical Museum
(Muzeum Farmacji) C-2, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. 061
851 66 15. One of the smallest
museums in Poznań, and certainly
the trickiest to find - go through
the cour tyard, ring the doorbell
then climb to the second floor.
Th e series of rooms h ere are
filled with rusty pots, scales and
cast iron mortars from the 19th
century, and vials dating from as
far back as the 17th century. Unless you speak German or
Polish you’ll find yourself wandering around in ignorance,
though the thick smell of medicine and scattering of pots
for mixing potions is liable to bring out the Harry Potter
in you. One room has been designed to mimic a 19th
century pharmacy - complete with a box for morphine while another includes over 1,200 rare medical books, a
stuffed alligator and an inmates uniform recovered from
Mathausen. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat,
Sun. Admission free.
Poznań Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Poznań)
G-1, Al. Armii Poznań (Po. Armii Poznań Citadel), tel.
061 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.
pl. Militaria, documents and photographs comprising
three permanent exhibitions. The History of the Poznań
Army covers this fighting force from 1918 to 1939; The
Fighting Wielkopolska 1939-1945 details the underground
resistance movements that operated during German occupation in World War II; and Battlefield items from the
Bzura is a collection relating to the famous battle at the
river Bzura in September 1939. Outside an array of military
hardware includes a T34 tank, Katyusha rocket launchers,
an Studebaker truck and a MIG. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free.
March - June 2009
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WHAT TO SEE
Hindenburg
As Poland’s fifth largest city, and one of its
oldest, it’s sensible to
assume a few famous
faces have been born
h ere. In d e e d a qui ck
glance through history
reveals an almost pantomime lineup of goodies
and baddies. And as far
as famous faces go they
don’t get more distinctive than the lumbering
walrus fram e of Paul
von Hindenburg, field
marshal extraordinaire
and one of th e most
recognizable statesmen
of the 20th century. His life started here, on Podgorna
6 to be precise, where he was born in 1847 in what
was then known as the Prussian city of Posen. Raised
by a family of vague aristocratic bearing, and a mother
of distinctly less noble blood, he spent his youth on
Podgorna, and his house still stands to this day. In fact,
it’s actually possible to pop in for a beer, though to do
so would mean stepping foot inside a ghastly bimbo bar
called Fashion Cafe.
In all likelihood Hindenburg would have slipped into
obscurity had it not been for WWI. Recalled to military
service at the grand age of 66 the hitherto unknown
military man masterminded Germany’s victory at Tannenburg in 1914, a battle which left the defeated Russian army crippled. The result catapulted the whiskered
Hindenburg to fame, and further victories, acclaim and
promotions followed, culminating in his 1916 appointment as Chief of General Staff. A personality cult took
root, and it wasn’t rare to find donations to the war
effort nailed onto the wooden statues of him which had
mushroomed across Germany. In fact, to all intents and
purposes, Hindenburg had become more important than
the Kaiser, certainly more popular. He withdrew gently
from the public view in the wake of the armistice, but
returned with a bang when he was elected President of
Germany in 1925. In spite of the perilous social state of
Germany Hindenburg’s time at the helm is remembered
fondly, and as the 1920s rolled to a close he did what
he could to limit the growing influence of Hitler’s Nazis.
‘Gentlemen, I hope you will not hold me capable of appointing this Austrian corporal to be Reich Chancellor’,
he is noted as telling his inner circle. However he was
forced to do just that in 1933, and by this time the
now senile Hindenburg had lost much of his standing.
Nonetheless, the ailing Hindenburg still vetoed Hitler’s
proposed bill which called for the immediate sacking of
all Jews employed in the civil service. Although Hitler
was keen to present a public show of respect for Hindenburg, he privately resented him and could often be
overheard cursing the ‘old reactionary’ and wishing for
his death. Hitler’s hopes were heard, and the following
year Hindenburg succumbed to lung cancer, giving Hitler
a free reign on Germany. He was buried a national hero
at Tannenberg (now called Stebark in Poland), though
with WWII reaching its close his remains were spirited
away by the retreating Germans to Marburg an der Lahn.
He rests there to this day.
Poznań In Your Pocket
WHAT TO SEE
Poznan Bamber Museum (Muzeum Bambrów
Poznańskich) D-2, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. 0 603 64 51
62, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Learn everything you ever
wished too about the Bamber people inside an interesting
museum that includes a 19th century timber house once
owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays number a
17th century bonnet, spinning wheels, paintings, clothing and
timber furniture - everything you’d expect in an ethnographic
museum. Outside view clunky farming equipment and other
such detritus. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. Admission free.
R e s i d e n c e & Wo r k s h o p o f K a z i m i e r a
Iłłakowiczówna (Mieszkanie-Pracownia Kazimiery
Iłłakowiczówny) E-3, ul. Gajowa 4/8, tel. 061 847 36
45, www.bracz.edu.pl. The works of the poet and writer
Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna (1892-1983) stand preserved in
the studio in which she formerly lived. Everything remains
as it once was, from writing desks to personal possessions
such as original manuscripts, books and paintings. Although
Iłłakowiczówna’s fame is largely limited to native academics
the exhibition isn’t a bad diversion if you have a passing
curiosity in how poets live. If not, give it a miss. QOpen ,
Mon 13:00 - 15:00, Thu 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed, Fri,
Sat, Sun. Admission free.
have been killed. The windswept grassy grounds make for
a thought provoking walk and visitors can view the ‘death
wall’ where up to seven prisoners were executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark tunnels used as improvised
gas chambers - a metal plaque outside reads: ‘Here in
October 1939 Nazi Germany began the mass extermination of mentally ill people with the use of poisoned gas’.
Elsewhere a vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display that includes a guillotine, an execution block,
truncheons, whips and arrest warrants. The personal
effects of prisoners have also been preserved including
hand written letters, playing cards, rosaries and identity
papers. Chillingly graffiti etched into the walls by prisoners
can still be discerned, the writing framed with red and white
ribbons. Reaching Fort VII is not an easy task however.
Found in the western suburbs your best bet is a taxi, with
reputable drivers charging around 20zł for the journey. To
get back into town you’ll usually be able to flag a cab down
on the main road, though you may wish to avoid this game
of chance by getting your driver to wait for the half an hour
it takes to view the museum. Q Open 9:00 - 16:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Monday. From 9:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Monday. Admission free.
Wielkopolska Military
Museum (Wielkopolskie
Muzeum Wojskowe) D-2,
Wielkopolska Ethnographic Museum (Wielkopolskie Muzeum Etnograficzne) D-2, ul. Grobla
25, tel. 061 852 30 06, www.mnp.art.pl. Once one of
Europe’s greatest Masonic lodges, this 19th century building now houses a permanent collection of Wielkopolska
folk culture. Exhibits include sculpture, painting, clothing,
embroidery and decorative art, as well as musical instruments and religious objects. Look out for the display of
valuable gifts, as well as a bronze statue of the Hindu
goddess Parvati - this was the first addition to the museum
following the aftermath of WWII. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00,
Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 5,50/3,50zł, Sat free.
Wielkopolska Mar tyr s Museum (Muzeum
Martyrologii Fort VII) Al. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. 061
848 31 38, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl.
Completed in 1880 to serve as a Prussian fortress Fort
VII gained notoriety when it was used as a Gestapo penal
camp between 1939 and 1944. It processed around
18,000 Polish prisoners, of which 4,500 are estimated to
Tourist information
City Information Centre (Centrum Informacji
Miejskiej) B-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. 061 851 96
45, www.cim.poznan.pl. Tourist office with detailed
tourist and business information. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Glob-Tour E-4, Dworzec Główny (Main Train Station),
tel. 061 866 06 67. This round-the-clock office in the
train station offers a large selection of maps, guidebooks
and videos. They also arrange tours and accommodation. Open 24hrs.
Tourist Information Centre C-2, Stary Rynek
59/60, tel. 061 852 61 56. Maps and guides in
Polish and English. German, French and some English
spoken. Q Open 10:00 - 19:0, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. From April 15 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Mon. Admission 3,50/2,20zł.
Stary Rynek 9, tel. 061 852
67 39, www.mnp.art.pl/
oddzialy/wmw/index.php.
Situated inside a brutal post
WWII pavilion the Military Museum documents the history
of the Polish military from the
11th century onwards, though
will be temporarily closed for
renovation through to February. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Wielkopolskiego) C-2, Stary Rynek 3, tel.
The Enigma Code
The vital role played by Polish exiles during the Battle of
Britain, who represented one in eight Allied pilots and
whose 303 Squadron boasted the best hit rate against
the Luftwaffe, is today common knowledge. As is the
role Polish forces played in breaking the siege of Monte
Cassino, and the daring raid on Dieppe in 1942. A lesser
known Polish contribution towards the Allied victory in
1945, but equally significant, is the battle that took place
inside the minds of Poland’s finest academics to crack the
German Enigma code. What’s this got to do with Poznań,
we hear you ask. Well, it all began here, namely in the
mathematics class of Poznań’s University. Ace students
Jerzy Różycki, Marian Rejewski and Henryk Zygalski came
to the attention of Polish intelligence services on account
of their excellent German skills and sharp mathematical
minds. Recruited to attend cryptology courses in Warsaw
alongside 17 other Poznań University alumni, the three
were set to work in 1932 on cracking German ciphers. It
was here they made the first vital Engima breakthrough
using a mathematical theorem since described as ‘the
theorem that won WWII.’
On the day before the Nazi invasion of Poland the three
fled to Romania where they immediately sought contact
with the Allies. Originally they turned up at the British
Embassy in Bucharest, but having been told to ‘come
back in a few days’ decided to try their luck with the
French instead. This proved more successful and from
there they found themselves in France, working in Cadix,
a secret intelligence cell operating in the unoccupied
south. With the risk of discovery by the Germans growing
greater the team were forced to flee. Różycki drowned at
sea in 1942 after the boat carried him sank in suspicious
circumstances, Zygalski and Rejewski however made it to
Spain, in spite of being robbed by the man guiding them
over the Pyrenees. More calamity followed: the pair were
arrested by Spanish police and imprisoned, only freed the
following year after intervention by the Red Cross.
Wilson Park (Park Wilsona) E-5, between ul.
Seeking sanctuary in England they were employed in
Boxmoor cracking simple SS codes. In spite of having
done the groundwork that broke the original Enigma
code their knowledge was not called on by the American
and British codebreakers who were cracking new and
improved Enigma codes at Bletchely Park, hence the
vital Polish contribution has been allowed to fade in
the memory. After the war Rejewski returned to Poland
where he spent the rest of his days under scrutiny from
internal security services, and working in a succession
of menial jobs. When he published his life story in 1973
he became an unwitting superstar, and his work was
finally recognized with a series of honours. He died in
1980, buried in Warsaw’s Powązki Cemetery. Zygalski
chose to remain in England and spent the post-war
years working as a maths teacher. He died in 1978 and
is buried in London.
www.inyourpocket.com
Although the trio have since received numerous posthumous awards their role in winning the war remains
a little-known fact in the West, a cause not helped by
silver screen rubbish like the 2001 movie Enigma. Since
1983 a memorial tablet at Poznań University’s Collegium
Majus has been in place honouring the three, and in
2006 an obelisk bearing their names was unveiled on
ul. Św. Marcin in what was formerly the Maths Department of the uni.
061 853 19 93, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.
pl. Chronicling the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising this museum
occupies a rebuilt structure that once served as home to the
Royal Guard. The exhibition includes a 1908 Maxim heavy
machine gun sitting behind a row of sandbags, a copy of
the uniform worn by the risings commander-in-chief, as well
as original state decorations awarded to him. Other points
of interest include a banner flown on the night of the uprising’s outbreak, photos of troop formations and a series of
postcards issued to commemorate the event.QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 4/2zł. Sat free.
Parks & Cemeteries
Głogowska, ul. Matejki and ul. Berwińskiego. Opened
in 1902. Opposite the main entrance is a bust of the park’s
patron. It also contains a large fountain with an 1891 monument of Perseus saving Andromeda by Johannes Pful, and
the latest incarnation of the Palmiarnia, completed in 1992.
QOpen 05:00 - 22:00.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
67
68
WHAT TO SEE
Lech Visitors Centre
Places of interest
Lech Visitors
Centre ul. Szwa-
Winiary Hill, north of the Old Town, was transformed into a fortress
from 1828 to 1839 by the Prussians. It was destroyed in the siege
of 1945, and the remains of the fortifications house the Museum
of the Poznań Army and the Citadel Museum, which has open-air
displays of military equipment. The rest of the area the fortress
occupied is now a large park. Of note are the cemeteries that
lie on the south west of the park boundaries. A commonwealth
graveyard includes the remains of allied airmen shot down over
Poland during WWII and is also the resting place for several of those
captured during The Great Escape - yes it was a true story (minus
Steve McQueen). Next to it a cemetery dedicated to Red Army
soldiers killed during the 1945 siege, with a soaring monument
standing out as an awesome display of Socialist Realism. The red
star that once topped it was long removed, the rumours that it was
filled with jewels proving to be urban myth. Jammed in between
Soviet and Commonwealth memorials are plots dedicated to
Poles killed under Fascism, and also during the 1956 Wielkopolska
Uprising. After all the gloom and death the installation titled ‘The
Unrecognized’ by Magdalena Abakanowicz comes as light relief.
Some 112 cast iron headless figures stand at over two metres
high and make for curious viewing. Added to the park in 2002, the
meaning of the controversial installation is open to debate. For
more about the artist visit www.abakanowicz.art.pl.Q
jcarska 11 (Nowe
Miasto), tel. 061
878 74 60, www.
kp.pl. A must for
all beer aficionados. What could
be better than half
a day out at one
of Poland’s biggest breweries? The Poznan Brewery,
which produces Lech, Tyskie, Żubr and Redds lies on the
outskirts of the city.
There is no minimum number of people required for a tour
so you can happily book by yourself. They do ask that
you make an appointment for a tour the day before or at
very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite
this, our un-announced arrival presented no significant
problems - although we were naturally disappointed
thatwe would have to wait half an hour in the bar before
a guide could be rustled up.
The first hour consists of a waltz through the production
process, fermenting and mashing as well as theusual guff
about water purity and the like. The most striking thing
about the first hour’s tour through the production plant
is the lack of humans and the sheer amount of steel and
technology. The two hour tour, which is available in English,
German and Russian is both informative and thorogh
and your guides are employees of the brewery chosen
for their years of experience and interest in the brewing
process. The brewery, dating from 1980, is fairly impressive, and having been treated to a facelift in the 1990s
is thoroughly modern; you’ll find yourself surrounded by
sparkling steel on all sides.
For your second hour you’ll be whisked off to the multimedia centre. Here you’ll be treated to a film on the
history and production of beer, as well as a galaxy of new
attractions telling the story of Lech. We recommend that
you take notes because you will be quizzed on the film
when it finishes, we kid you not. Take the opportunity to
have your photo taken inside a huge can of Lech which
you can then instantly email to all of your friends or get
involved in the bottling process which is guaranteed to
bring out the child engineer in all of you.
After your exhausting cultural experience you’ll finish the
tour with a well-earned beer which you can choose from
their portfolio of brands, and you can complete your
immersion into the world of Lech by buying up fleeces,
keyrings, pens and beer mugs from the souvenir shop.
To get to the Brewery take a tram over to Rondo Rataje
over the river and then take the M1 bus out to the shopping mall on the edge of town. Hop off and you can’t
miss the brewery as it has
three huge towers draped
in bright green Lech flags.
Alternatively a taxi ride from
the centre will set you back
about 20zł. QOpen 10:00 14:00, Mon, Wed, Sat 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Poznań In Your Pocket
Citadel Park (Park Cytadela) G/H-1, Wzgórze Cytadela.
The Goats
Butting Heads Poznan Town Hall, Stary Rynek 1. The crowd
you see outside the Old town Hall just before noon each day is waiting for the goats to appear. At 12:00 precisely, the two tin creatures
appear from a door in the façade and butt heads a dozen times.
The first goats were installed in 1551 by Bartłomiej of Gubin, and
over the years have been restored and replaced. The present
goats date from 1954. The legend goes as follows: when the clock
was unveiled in 1511, it was to be shown off to the governor of the
Poznań province. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory feast
burnt the venison. Panicking, he went out and stole a pair of goats
to cook instead. But they escaped to the City Hall tower where the
bemused guests saw them butting heads up on a ledge. The governor whimsically decreed that mechanical goats be added to the
clock. The fate of the cook remains a mystery, though the chances
are he would have been tied up to the whipping post directly outside
and given a bloody good thrashing.
Zoos
New Zoo (Nowe Zoo) ul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto),
tel. 061 877 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. The 116 hectare
New Zoo was opened to the public in 1974 after seven years
of construction. Housing over 2,000 animals representing 140
species, it’s comprised of 60 per cent pine and mixed forests
with an artificialy-created creek and string of ponds running
through the grounds. This way, the creatures live in recreations
of their natural habitats rather than inhumane concrete pens.
A pavilion for nocturnal animals was added in 1995. Q Open
09:00-16:00. From March 1 Open 09:00-17:00. From April 1
Open 09:00-19:00. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing.
Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł.
Old Zoo (Stare Zoo) E-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel.
061 848 08 63, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Poland’s oldest zoo
dates to 1874 and still has some picturesque old pavilions.
Beasts occupying the 4.39 hectare zoo include lions, zebras,
giraffes, hippopotami, monkeys and apes. It officially became
a Poznań historical site in 1972. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Last
entrance 60 minutes before closing. Open 09:00-16:00. From
March 1 Open 09:00-17:00. From April 1 Open 09:00-19:00.
Admission 9/6zł, family ticket 25zł.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
70
KÓRNIK
KÓRNIK
Kórnik Castle (Zamek Kórnik) ul. Zamkowa 5,
Kórnik, tel. 061 817 00 81, www.bkpan.poznan.pl.
Originally built at the tail end of the 14th century by the Górka
family, the castle has been extensively remodelled through
the centuries, and is one of the few cultural treasures that
was spared the hurricane of destruction of WWII. The ideal
backdrop for a supernatural horror, the corridors of Kórnik
represent a marvellous trip through time.
Hailed as one of the great castles in Poland the neo-Gothic
Kórnik lies 20km south east of Poznań and makes for an
easy day trip for those looking to see a little more of the
region.
Getting there
If you’re in Poznań the easiest way to reach Kórnik is by bus.
You have two choices. Either take the private Kombus bus
(tel. 061 898 06 66, www.kombus.com.pl), numbers 501,
502 or 560 which leave from the Kombus bus station (I-5,
Rataje Roundabout, ul. Krzywoustego 19). Tickets are bought
directly from the driver - just ask for Kórnik Rynek, hand the
man 5.80/2.90zł (for students up to the age of 26, children
under 4 travel free) and away you go. Your journey will take
around 30 minutes. There is at least one bus every hour
departing around 12 minutes past the hour on weekdays
with an extra bus running at peak times. At weekends buses
leave once an hour, most hours, at the start of the hour.
Buses run from 05:12 until 23:37. There is also a PKS bus
(tel. 061 664 25 25, www.pks.poznan.pl) that runs from Main
Bus Station (F-4 ul. Towarowa 17/19). The first one leaves
at 05:30 and the last 22:30. Buses leave Poznań at least
once an hour with additional buses between 11:00 and 17:00.
Ticket costing 6.50zł may be bought in the ticket office in the
station or from the driver.
The castle is a ten minute walk from the bus stop, and the
closer it looms the more impressive it appears. Founded by
the Górka’s this noble family fell into extinction and, after bitter ownership wrangles, the castle passed into the hands of
the Działyński family at the end of the 17th century. It would
remain the family domain until 1880 when it was inherited
by their closest (legitimate) relative, Władyslaw Zamoyski,
who before his death in 1924 bequeathed the castle to the
Polish nation.
Kórnik
Penned in by lakes and forests Kórnik (pop. 6,500) is your
signature provincial town, with its principal high street lined
with trees and two storey townhouses dating from the 18th
and 19th century.
On alighting from the bus you’ll be met with the sight of All
Saints’ Church, a beautiful brick building founded in 1437
and funded by the Górka’s. It was rebuilt in a neo-Gothic
style in 1826 after being gutted by fire, and its crypt holds
All Saints’ Church
Poznań In Your Pocket
A. Webber
Kórnik Castle
A. Webber
members of the Działyński and Zamoyski families - more of
them later. Other points of interest include ‘the eye of the
needle’, a narrow passage leading to a now defunct Jewish
prayer house (find it on the main high street as you go into
town, keeping an eye out for the Hebrew inscription on the
wall), as well as the neo Baroque town hall, now serving as the
seat of local government. Built in 1907 its stand out feature
is the mechanical rooster that appears out of the clock on
the strike of noon.
The name of Kórnik is thought to refer to the locals’ skill in
raising roosters (kur) and as such you’ll find no shortage of
game on offer in the local restaurants. The best address
in town is Biała Dama (Pl. Niepodległości 20, 061 817 02
16), a vast restaurant hidden inside a squat reminder of the
1960s. Festooned with plants, ceremonious lighting and the
obligatory picture of The White Lady, they have the benefit
of an English menu on which you’ll find dishes like boar and
venison. Unless you have the fortune of having your moment
of quiet contemplation hijacked by a wedding party its more
than likely you’ll be doing your dining in echoing silence. For a
more down to earth experience hit Kórnicka (ul. Poznańska
19/21, 061 898 06 22) - a locals restaurant with yellow
walls, local radio and the lonely chime of grandfather clocks
to remind you of the desperation of living in the sticks. No
booze license, and no English menu, though the greasy
plates of Polish food will do enough to keep you from cannibalism. If you’re keen to linger on in Kórnik then consider
booking a night in Hotel Daglezja (ul. Woźniaka 7, tel. 061
897 27 00, www.hoteldaglezja.pl, singles 160zł, doubles
199zł, apartments 249zł). The bad news is the exterior, a
complete work of insanity; although given a modern look
the horror includes a mock castle tower complete with
pieces of stone cladding, and a connecting wing painted in
ghastly rainbow colours. Fortunately the accommodation
is great, with a very decent contemporary standard, new
fittings and highly commendable restaurant serving local
and European dishes.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Today the castle owes its appearance to the Działyński family,
with the last reconstruction occurring during the 19th century
while the castle was under the stewardship of Tytus Działyński.
Having originally commissioned the Italian architects Corazzi
and Marconi to draw up plans Tytus was put off by the
extravagant costs of their suggestions so commissioned
a third architect, the German K.E Schinkel (responsible for
many of Berlin’s neo-classical structures). Although Schinkel
prepared detailed sketches he never actually visited Kórnik,
so a frustrated Tytus - a savvy engineer - took matters into
his own hands and used a conglomeration of his own ideas
and previously submitted plans. Taking a hands-on approach
both he and his wife designed all the interiors themselves,
leaving their indelible mark on the castle.
Accessed across a wooden draw bridge a visit to the castle
does not begin until you’ve strapped a pair of oversized slippers to your feet and done a couple of deft ice-skating moves
on the slidey surfaces. Immediately to your right lies the study
of Zamoyski, the last owner. Furnished with 17th century
Gdańsk cupboards the room also includes a mahogany desk
from England, a 19th century Webster’s dictionary and a travelling chest that the workaholic Zamoyski would sometimes
use as a pillow. Further on the route takes you through a
variety of chambers, each packed with paintings and ornate
furnishings. The drawing room is one of the highlights of the
ground floor, and features a grand piano owned by Tytus’
sister, Claudyna. Given to her in Dresden, legend has it that
Chopin once tickled these ivories in his bid to seduce her. The
fireplace, grand as it is, should be noted for other reasons.
It’s in here that a patriotic Tytus hid to escape arrest for his
involvement in the 1831 Uprising. Other treasures to look for
include a rotating table, made from 16 different species of
wood, thereby allowing guests to whimsically decree which
particular segment they would dine on, and the room is also
home to a French pedal harp, its strings made from animal
intestines. Carrying on visitors can view an original mosaic
from Pompeii depicting a slavering hound and a warning to
‘Beware of the Dog’, while the wooden ceiling of the dining
room features 71 coats of arms belonging to the Polish aristocracy. At the end of the room, a giant portrait of Teofila,
who is said to float down from her portrait on occasion as a
White Lady and stalk benignly around the grounds.
On your way out don’t pass by the mirror; look straight into the
middle of it, and make a wish instead. Known as the Morskie
Oko (a lake in Zakopane), this mirror is something of a point
of pilgrimage for newlyweds. Last on your tour of the ground
floor is the Hunting Room. Of note are the interlocked antlers
of a pair of a deer, the remains of a deadly fight in the forests
of Kórnik. A host of anthropological treasures fill the rest of
poznan.inyourpocket.com
the room, including Melanesian masks crafted from human
bone and a necklace made from human teeth. The seashells
on display are the collection of Zamoyski who planned to use
them to build a subterranean chapel - a plan abandoned after
his death. Walking up the stairs a huge hall designed to mimic
the Alhambra contains Tytus’s collection of military weaponry,
from the uniforms of winged hussars, to five metre lances.
Other curios include two handed battleaxes, lances from the
15th century and a 16th century Spanish chest. Used to store
valuables this 13 lock monstrosity can be viewed as being
the precursor to the safe. From there on you’ll find a dizzying
arrange of personal effects, from Napoleon’s spoon to military
medals and even a death cast taken of Jan Działyński’s hand
- a supreme example of the sepulchral art of the day.
Kórnik is also an important seat of academia, and the
library found inside the castle rates as one of top five in
Poland. Founded by Tytus Działyński in 1828 it boasts over
400,000 tomes, including approximately 30,000 books
over 150 years old. The prize possession is the Order of
Benedict, a 9th century manuscript which is the oldest in
Poland. Since 1953 it has operated as part of the National
Library of Poland, with an onus on science, and you’ll find
many of the more interesting books frequently put out on
public display; available for view on our visit were a map
from 1482, a first edition of Copernicus’ defining work, De
Revolutionobis and a 16th century bible penned in twelve
tongues. Although the library suffered looting courtesy of
the Nazi forces the castle itself was saved from an ignoble
end by the sharp wits of a curator; keep your eyes to the
ground by the entrance, close to the Zamoyski’s study; it’s
here you’ll spot a tile arrangement vaguely resembling a
swastika; this was pointed out to a group of visiting German officers as a sure sign of Nazi supremacy, and they
left peacefully satisfied in the knowledge that Kórnik was
German enough to be saved from destruction.Q Open
10:00-16:00, Closed Mon. from May 1 Open 10:00-17:00.
Admission 12/7zł, family ticket 28zł. Guided tours up to
35 people 60zł.
The Arboretum
Having toured round the castle don’t make the mistake of
ignoring the arboretum outside. Originally it was our favourite
white lady, Teofila, who founded the gardens, creating a park in
the popular French style with trimmed shrubs, artificial ponds
and stone statues. The garden was completely remodeled
by Tytus Działyński, who expanded the park, imported many
of the trees currently standing and gave it its English look.
Today the fifty hectare site serves as a marvellous walk, with
numerous protected species and trees from as far away as
China. Winding pathways take you round the site, providing
many memorable scenes no matter what season you’re visiting in. Linden trees dating back 350 years line the principal
route, taking you round the various lakes and rivers. Like the
castle, the Arboretum was saved from the ravages of WWII by
a quick thinking member of staff. Alarmed that Soviet soldiers
were chopping down trees for firewood the gardener appealed
to the patriotism of the Soviet commander, declaring that the
forest was also home to the Siberian apple tree. Appalled
by this desecration the commander stopped his troops in
their tracks and the park was saved. Battered by storms
in January 2007, the park has stood the tests and trials of
time, its status confirmed by the presence of the National
Institute of Dendrology.
www.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
71
72
THE PIAST ROUTE
Those looking to trace the birth of the Polish nation should
make it in their interests to follow the Piast Route, a tourist
trail specifically designed to take in the key sights associated with Poland’s formative years. Consisting of dozens
of castles, churches, cathedrals and museums the route
encompasses a vast variety of sights, some relevant to
Poland’s beginnings, others whose inclusion is a little baffling. Below are our favourites:
Biskupin
CASTLES OF WIELKOPOLSKA
Strzelno
Łagów Castle
Although a tiny town of
just 12,000 Strzelno is
one of the most important
points on the trail of the
Piasts. Visit St. Adalbert’s
Hill to view the Church of St.
Prokopus, a rotund house
of worship whose history
allegedly goes back to the
12th century. Next to it is
the Basilica, and though it
was retouched in Baroque
style its history goes way
beyond those times; in
1946 routine restoration work by professor Zdzisław Kępinski
revealed a set of Romanesque columns which had been hidden from view for over 200 years. These columns are thought
to be over 800 years old, and the only similar ones on record
are to be found in Venice and Santiago de Compostella.
ul. Kościuszki 3, Łagów, tel. 068 341 21 19, www.
zamek-lagow.pl.
Lying halfway between Poznań and Berlin Łagów Castle is
surprisingly easy to access. If you’re traveling by car make
the 100km trip past Świecko and Świebodzin, before leaving
the main road and turning right at Gronów. Łagów lies 6km
away. Alternatively take a train from Poz to Świebodzin, and
from there take a bus to Łagów.
Gołuchów Castle
The Castle
First off you’ll need
to know that while
Łagów makes for
an easy journey
this is no daytrip;
since being
renovated by the
Centre for Sports
a n d To u r i s m i n
1971 Łagów has
functioned solely
as a restaurant,
h otel
an d
conference centre,
so if you want to
snoop around
you’ll need to shell
out on one of the
aforementioned.
Jan Jerszyński The good news is
that this place is
as cheap as a bag of buttons – doubles cost from 180200zł per night, and not only do you get to live the dream
of staying in a castle for the night, you can even opt for a
night in a ‘torture room’. Fitted with a huge solid wood bed
this is every gimps dream and comes complete with clunky
manacles suspended from the walls and other scary bits
and pieces. Bear in mind there’s only 14 rooms here, so do
book in advance to avoid disappointment.
First mention of Łagów, or castrum Lagowe, can be traced
back to 1299 when it was awarded to a knight named Albert
von Klepzig by a group of Brandenburg magistrates. The
history books concerning the fortress are vague to say the
least, though we do know that in 1347 it was leased to the
Johanniter Knights, who belonged to the Order of St John, and
it was also in this century that ramparts were built and the
castle started taking on the form of which we are now familiar
with. The castle only saw action once, during the 30 Years
War (1618-1648), though passed its acid test with flying
colours; its stoic defenders successfully beating off an attack
by Swedish troops. As time passed the Johanniter’s became
an evangelical knighthood which allowed them to marry, with
the first commander of the castle to advantage of this being
Andreas von Schlieben. He died in 1571 and was buried in the
local church, but that doesn’t mean you’ve got no chance of
meeting him. In 1820 the president of the Poznań Treasury
was visiting the castle when he saw the ghostly shape of a
knight engulfed in flames standing at the foot of his bed. The
ghost apparently bore a canny likeness to the image on von
Schlieben’s tomb and has been spotted several times since;
though only in spring and summer, and only by men. There
is no sane explanation for the flames that accompany him,
but don’t let that ruin a good story.
As time passed the Johanniter order was secularized on
the whim of Frederic Wilhelm III and the estate was taken
over by the state, before being sold on to a series of private
landowners. It escaped WWII undamaged and today original
details like the 15th century brick gate can still be viewed.
The Castle
A marvellous castle with an absolute feast of delights lying in
wait for those who make the journey. The elaborate Gołuchów
has taken many forms over the years, though its beginnings
were less than auspicious. It was in 1560 when the local
governor Rafał IV Leszczyński chose to build a fortified tower
on this spot, filling it with only the most spartan of fixtures and
fittings. The castle started taking shape in the following decades
when Wacław Leszczyński, no doubt inspired by his studies in
Italy and Germany, decided to attach a palace complex to the
tower, as well as adding several elaborate details to the original
structure. These included carved stone fireplaces, ornamental
doors and his vast collection of paintings, though by the 18th
century the castle – badly damaged during the course of the
100 Years War – had fallen into disrepair.
A new lease of life was granted when Tytus Działyński (see
Kórnik Castle, What to see) bought the castle in 1853 and
gifted it to his only son, Jan Kanty. Having returned from
political exile in Paris (for his part in the January Uprising,
1831) Kanty set about remodelling the castle to follow neogothic and renaissance forms. It was Kanty’s wife though,
Izabella Elżbieta Czartoryska, who set about making the
castle famous. It was her who didn’t accept original plans
for renovation on account of them being too austere, and it
was her who made the decision to open a museum. By her
death in 1899 the halls of the castle were filled with paintings,
tapestries and sculptures dating from the 16th century. The
outbreak of WWII spelled disaster for this collection. Although
the treasures were stacked away in metal trunks and hidden
in Warsaw they were discovered by the Nazis, with the biggest
museums of the Third Reich squabbling over the riches.
Although much of the collection was recovered after the war
most of the spoils were split between the National Museum’s
in Warsaw and Poznań, while the castle itself – used as a
warehouse for Nazi uniforms – was left a broken shadow of
its former glory. The efforts to restore both museum and
castle have been Herculean, and today your first sight of it
may remind of the Loire Chateau.
The museum is well worth the visit alone, with antiquities
including vases from 3BC, 16th century books and manuscripts,
gothic artwork and a number of relics that formerly belonged
to t h e p r e - wa r
m u s e u m . Th e
annex near th e
castle contains a
forestry museum
with all manner
of stuffed beasts
on display, and
you may be lucky
enough to spot
a Polish bison
lumping around
the surrounding
grounds.
Mausoleum
Trzemeszno
In 1933 an eagle-eyed school master spotted wooden stakes
sticking out of some lakeside reeds and like a conscientious citizen went to investigate. What he had inadvertently
stumbled on was to become known as the Polish Pompeii:
a Lusatian fortified settlement dating from the early Iron
Age. Excavation work was launched the following year, and
carried on under the request of Himmler once Poland fell to
Germany. Situated 90km north east of Poznań Biskupin has
since become a popular symbol of patriotism, proof to many
that Poland has always proudly defended its borders against
the Germans. Today the wooden fortress has been fully reconstructed and is open throughout the year as an open air
museum. Although not connected with the Piast dynasty it
is seen as a vital part of the route that traces Poland’s early
origins. Without a doubt Biskupin rates as one of the great
wonders of Poland, but that doesn’t mean tourists will find
it easy to get there. Your best bet is to either hire a car or
hijack a helicopter. If you’re travelling from Poznań using public
transport you’ll be left with no choice but spending a night in
the local town of Żnin. For more info check the comprehensive
English language website at www.biskupin.pl.
Kruszwica
Found on the banks of Lake Gopło this is a historic market
town that became one of the first fortified settlements in the
region. Your camera lens is going to primarily be zooming in on
the Mouse Tower (Mysia Wieża), a 32 metre structure sitting
on the Rzępowski Peninsula. Apparently built during the reign
of Kazimierz the Great the tower was awarded its name after
a plague of rodents allegedly ate Prince Popiel - a devious
chap who had poisoned some rivals.
Ostrów Lednicki
Found between Poznań and Gniezno a trip to Lake Lednicki
allows the opportunity to visit the Museum of the First
Piasts - Poland’s largest open-air museum. Situated on an
island tourists get to wander around the 10th century ruins
of a castle and church once used by both Mieszko I and his
son. Once connected to the mainland by a pair of bridges the
fortress is thought to have played its part during in repelling
the Czech invasion of 1038 and archaeological relics that
have been recovered since include weaponry, cutlery and
the skeleton of a fallen Czech warrior.
Poznań In
Poznań
In Your
YourPocket
Pocket
Before St. Adalbert’s corpse made it to Gniezno it was originally laid to rest in this town. Apparently founded in the 10th
century Trzemeszno features a baroque church dating from
the 18th century, as well as a monument to the local-born
hero Jan Kiliński. A cobbler by trade he went on to become the
unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being
wounded twice Kiliński led his men to capture the Russian
Ambassador’s Warsaw residence, and he is said to embody
the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism.
Wenecja
Five kilometers south of Żnin, Wenecja (Venice) is a small
settlement whose name alludes to its picturesque location
tucked between three lakes. Known as the ‘Pearl of Pałuki’
the town is home to a Narrow Gauge Railway Museum, with
its collection featuring a number of steam locomotives (the
oldest dating back to 1900), various detritus recovered from
the age of steam and a working line that takes captivated
visitors all the way to Żnin (stopping at Biskupin). But the real
point of interest here are the skeletal ruins of a former Piast
stronghold. A leftover from the 14th century the castle once
came under the ownership of Mikołaj Nałęcz, a nasty judge
who originated from Kalisz. Nicknamed the ‘devil of Wenecja’
his ghost is said to stalk the ruins at night.
Wylatowo
Founded in 1358 - right at the tail end of King Kazimierz’s rule
- the town of Wylatowo has the most tenuous connections
with the Piasts, however you’ll find it included in all the bumph
related to the Piast Route because of two factors. Firstly, it’s
home to the only triple-aisled wooden church in Poland (built
1761). Secondly, it’s famous for extra-terrestrial activity. We
kid you not. It’s in this backwater a strange cigar shaped
object was photographed floating in the skies last year, with
lab tests since confirming that there were no camera tricks
or other such jiggery pokery involved. But that’s not the
only peculiar happening; since 2000 when crop circles first
started appearing in the neighbouring fields Wylatowo has
established itself as a mecca for Polski ufologists. While some
claim the circles are the work of savvy farmers looking to
make a quick buck science geeks and X-Files style investigations have yet to determine the cause of this annual summer
phenomena. For more info, including live transmissions from
the affected areas visit www.ufotv.pl.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
poznan.inyourpocket.com
See Kórnik Castle:
page 70
Gołuchów, tel. 062 761 50 94.
Situated 115km from Poznań, and 20km north west of Kalisz,
Gołuchów can be reached directly by bus from Poznań’s
main bus station.
March - June 2009
73
74
GNIEZNO
GNIEZNO
Adalbertus ul. Tumska 7a, tel. 061 426 13 60, fax
Sphinx ul. Chrobrego 4, tel. 061 426 13 73, www.
sphinx.pl. Definitely not a gourmet experience but say
it quietly, Sphinx is one of the best chances you have of
eating well in Gniezno. You’re probably already familiar with
the concept by now; shoarmas, gyros, pizzas and steaks
all served with an accompanying spade of cabbage amid
an interior of plastic trees and multi-coloured lanterns.
The authenticity is definitely there to be questioned.
This is after all a Polish chain serving middle eastern
food with recipes apparently coined by Tom Mal tom.
Correct me if I’m wrong but it’s highly unlikely the pharaohs had their feasts prepared by a bloke named Tom.
Nonetheless Sphinx is cheap, simple and hits your daily
calorie count in one swoop, and that can’t be faulted.
Q Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (20-45zł).
PTAXSW
061 426 13 60 ext. 160, adalalbertus@pietrak.pl,
www.pietrak.pl. Younger sister of the Pietrak Hotel, this
one situated within eyeshot of the Cathedral and set around
a courtyard filled with shrubbery. Found inside a restored
18th century building the Adalbertus features a serene atmosphere as well as all the modern day creature comforts
necessary for a smooth stay. Q24 rooms (6 singles 128
- 160zł, 14 doubles 152 - 190zł, 4 apartments 240 - 300zł).
THAUGKW hhh
AWO ul. Warszawska 32, tel./fax 061 426 11 97, re-
cepcja@hotel-awo.pl, www.hotel-awo.pl. A superb deal
accessed via an arched courtyard. Toothpaste smile service
checks you in at reception before leading you up the stainless
steel stairs to spacey rooms that come fitted with cable TV,
vast beds and heating that is guaranteed to melt any icicles
that have formed on your nose. Under-equipped travelers
will appreciate the house computer for your internerd needs
and the mini-shampoo in the bathrooms. Q40 rooms (15
singles 160zł, 17 doubles 210zł, 1 triple 250zł, 1 suite 300zł,
3 apartments 300zł). THARUGKW hhh
While the people of Poznań are eager to claim their city
as Poland’s first capital anyone with a passing knowledge
of history will identify this as a fib. That title belongs to
Gniezno, a picturesque town lying 50km east of Poz.
Of all the towns, villages and cities in Poland nowhere
is more synonymous with the foundation of the Polish
state than Gniezno. Although the capital was eventually
shifted to Kraków and then Warsaw, Gniezno remained
an important centre of worship and to this day is still
regarded as Poland’s ecclesiastical capital. For the visitor
it is an intriguing town full of spires and cobbles, a superb
medicine to the frantic flap of urban Poland.
Getting there
Nothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from Poznań.
Trains run frequently throughout the day with the last one in
the evening leaving Gniezno at approximately 22:40. You’ve
got two class of trains to choose from, either the Pospieszny,
which has a habit of packing out with students buried under
backpacks, or the Osobowy, which lurches to a stop at every
hamlet. Journey time will take anything from fifty minutes to
an hour and a quarter and one way tickets retail at little more
than 10-12zł. Travellers using the Pospieszny train should note
that Gniezno is the first stop on the route; don’t expect any
tannoy announcements alerting you to your arrival. The train
station is a simple affair featuring an ATM, an upstairs internet
cafe, newsagent and cafe. Getting to town is ABC stuff with
the Rynek lying little more than a ten minute from the station.
Simply follow ul. Dworcowa until you reach ul. Mieszka I, and
then follow the latter to its conclusion. Alternatively live the
high life and splash out on a cab: five złoty should be enough
to get you dropped off in the Rynek.
Where to stay
While there may be no international brands present in
Gniezno, the city does offer a pretty decent selection of
places to rest your head at very impressive prices if you
are travelling from the west.
Poznań In Your Pocket
Gewert ul. Paczkowskiego 2, tel. 061 428 23 75, fax
061 425 33 43, recepcja@gewert.gniezno.pl, www.
gewert.gniezno.pl. Set inside a modern brick building the
Gerwert touts all weather tennis courts, conference facilities
and rooms decorated in vivacious shades of blue and yellow.
Clean, comfortable and a short cab ride from the Rynek. Q24
rooms (24 singles 126 - 140zł, 15 doubles 153 - 170zł, 5
triples 207 - 230zł, 1 suite 207 - 230zł, 2 apartments 189 210zł). THAGKW hh
Lech ul. Bł. Jolenty 5, tel. 061 426 23 85, fax 061 424
57 33, recepcja@hotel-lech.pl, www.hotel-lech.pl. A
brutalist, blockish structure offering cheap rooms decorated
with plastic plants and furnishings not seen for a couple of decades. Expect lots of dark brown; a great colour for cake, not
for carpet. Nonetheless it’s decent and clean and apparently
a popular choice for conferences. Q32 rooms (28 singles
110 - 140zł, 30 doubles 130 - 170zł, 4 triples 160 - 200zł).
THAFGKDC h
Medical Vocational School Boarding House ul.
Mieszka I 27, tel./fax 061 426 34 09, medykgniezno@
op.pl, www.medyk.gniezno.pl. The best bargain in town
and as such it should come as little surprise to find no room
in the inn. The lodgings here are basic but the fittings are
new and kept meticulously scrubbed, and many of the rooms
stare out onto a quiet courtyard. TVs and spanking clean
bathrooms are part of the price. Good luck finding it though:
you’ll need to walk deep into the medical academy that runs
this place, before taking your chances with a monolingual
receptionist.QNo breakfast served. 50 dorm beds 35-40zł
per person. G
Pietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel./fax 061 426 14 97,
gniezno@pietrak.pl, www.pietrak.pl. Set inside a restored
townhouse overlooking the high street the Pietrak has long
been considered the best hotel in town, which is why you’ll
find political luminaries such as Lech Wałęsa and former
president Aleksander Kwaśniewski listed in the guestbook.
The feast of facilities includes a fitness club and spa, though
if you’re tired of running around then get someone else to
do it for you; room service is available at your beck and call.
Lodgings feature internet, mini-bar and cable TV and the neoclassical rooms come decorated in swish green and cream
colours. Q54 rooms (9 singles 180zł, 28 doubles 210zł, 8
suites 250zł, 9 apartments 320zł). PTHARUFG
KDW hhhh
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Złoty Smok ul. Kaszarska 1a, tel. 061 426 78 04.
Like so many of the Chinese restaurants in Poland the
Golden Dragon goes straight for the eyes, blinding the
visitor with a carnival of lanterns, painted screens and
other ghastly bits and pieces. This is not Chinese food
the way it’s served back home, but that’s not to say it’s
not wor th visiting. The prices here are derisor y, your
coins winning you steaming bowls of all the beef, duck
and chicken dishes you’d expect. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00.
(8-25zł). PS
Bars & Clubs
Restaurants
Hotel Pietrak ul. Chrobrego 3, tel. 061 426 14 97,
www.pietrak.pl. The best hotel in town, but definitely
not the best meal. Pietrak looks like it fits the bill with
its bow-tie waiters, creeping ivy and classical columns
but there’s no masking a disappointing meal. The menu
claims the Chancellor of Germany dined here in 2000 and
guests can still eat from the tailor made menu prepared for
him. We can only assume the chefs have since changed.
We opted for steak in Bernaise sauce accompanied with
jacket potatoes and dumplings. The potatoes turned out
to be crinkly fries, the dumplings must have got lost in
the kitchen and as for the steak; we asked for medium,
it came back alive. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. (11-50zł).
PAUIEXSW
Ratuszowa ul. Chrobrego 40/41, tel. 061 424 32
23, www.ratuszowa.gniezno.pl. Rated by many as the
top restaurant in Gniezno, and it certainly looks the part:
black and white flooring, parlour palms and soothing cream
colours. It all looks very ballroom and the menu is suitably
high end with offerings that range from zander fillet to
saddle of deer. Diners be warned, their opening hours are
rigorously enforced, which is exactly why we were turned
away at 10pm on a Friday night. Better luck next time.
Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (18-48zł).
PTAUES
Restauracja Polska ul. Tumska 5, tel. 061 426
18 00, w w w.5.gniezno.pl. A super restaurant spli t
into different sections: cafe, restaurant, bistro - not
to mention a heavenl y garden that will no doubt be
closed th e moment you read this. Inside numerous
chambers come decorated wi th framed oil paintings,
fragile crocker y and pointy linen napkins. The menu
promises all the standards of Polish countr y cooking,
and if you’re luck y you’ll find your meal complimented
by li ve jaz z per formances. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00.
(20-47zł). PTAIS
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Dracula Pub Rynek 15. To find that Gniezno has a
nightlife comes as an unexpected plus, to then find it
has a Dracula pub is enough to have you considering
relocating. ‘Love never dies’ proclaims a sign above the
threshold, and from thereon it’s a cheery romp through
the under world as a maze of subterranean chambers
reveal walls adorned with scary zombie masks, lanterns
with Halloween faces and coffin-shaped doors. Find a
solitary bargirl looking completely bemused by it all as
she attempts to multitask between homework and finding
a radio signal. Completely unexpected and a fantastic
diversion, even if none of the locals seem to agree.
Q Open 16:00 - 24:00.
Play Club ul. Kaszarska 3, www.klubplay.pl. While the
rest of Gniezno sleeps Play goes way into the night, waving the
banner for provincial clubbing. Filled with Eminem replicants
and girls dripping in blingy trinkets Play is, if nothing else,
an interesting study in how far the general twittery of MTV
has penetrated backwater Poland. But while the punters
are desperately trying to feel part of the 21st century the
interiors are anything but; here it’s all fake fog, strobe lights
and stainless steel. Don’t be surprised to find the music is
nothing more challenging than dance anthems played at ear
popping volume.
Pub ul. Rzeźnicka 7 (entrance from ul. Chrobrego 3),
tel. 061 426 14 97 ext. 158, www.pietrak.pl. Possibly
the most popular drinkery in town, and while the name
lacks imagination the interior doesn’t. Murals of cacti, a
couple of wagon wheels and a wood frame bar suggest an
attempt at a Dodge City bar, and other extras include an
unexplained mannequin staring from atop of a mezzanine.
The visual diversions don’t end there; the moment work
finishes you’ll find half of Gniezno choosing to drink here,
and it won’t take for outsiders to note that they’re a good
looking bunch. Plenty of eye candy here, a screen for football
and a background noise of party tunes lend this place a
permanent buzz that lasts long into the evening. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. PAUEX
March - June 2009
75
76
GNIEZNO
The Birth of Poland
Seeing that Poland occupies a fair chunk of Europe it’s
safe to assume it has a history to match the greatest
of nations. Indeed, to pen the full story of Poland and its
origins would be to come up with a tome thick enough
to stun an elephant. So we’ve skipped a few steps and
come up with the idiot’s guide to the birth of Poland, and
the key sights that the amateur historian should view.
Poland’s first ruling family were the Piast’s, and although
legend has the family line going back to the 8th century
we’ll start our story with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’s
the fella on the face of the ten złoty note). Born in 935AD
his life generally revolved around the battlefield, leading
his troops into battle from the Baltic Coast to the plains
of Silesia. When he wasn’t hacking heads off he spent
most of his time in the Wielkopolska region, specifically
in his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrow Lednicki.
Baptised in 966 he founded the cathedral in Poznań two
years later, a move seen by many as the beginning of the
nation’s Christianisation. Following his death in 992 he
was succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on the 20zł
note), and it’s around this time where our story gathers
pace. Adalbert had been the first Bishop of Prague, though
the strains of the job proved too much for him. Seeking
a quieter life he took up residence in Gniezno. Persuaded
out of exile he set off to convert the barbarous Prussian
tribes to Christianity. It turned out to be a foolish move:
he was killed immediately, his head ending up on a spike.
Bolesław decided to recover the corpse, and made the
perilous journey westwards to do so. A ransom was paid
and he headed back to Poland with the corpse in tow.
It was a selfless act, and one that so impressed the
Pope that he sent Otto III - the head of the Holy Roman
Empire - to Gniezno in 1000 to view the body and meet
with Bolesław. It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was established in Gniezno, and 25 years later
Bolesław had himself crowned king. Commonly known
as Bolesław the Great or Bolesław Chrobry the nation’s
first regent is credited with unifying the regions of Poland,
as well as strengthening Poland’s international standing
through his smart diplomacy. His son and heir, Mieszko
II, didn’t fare so well, dying in suspicious circumstances
nine years into his reign. In spite of his sticky demise the
Piast’s remained in power, and continued to rule Poland
for centuries to come. Their successes were hit-and-miss,
and the rulers frequently found themselves at conflict with
the landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened
to disintegrate, and it wasn’t until the coronation in 1320
of Władysław I that concerted efforts were once more
made to unite Poland’s different provinces. The work of
Władysław was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would
later be known through history as Kazimierz the Great - he
doubled the size of Poland, stabilized the economy, and
commissioned the construction of a number of castles
and forts. What he failed to do, however, was have a son.
Not one of his four wives was able to bear him a son, and
his death in 1370 marked the end of the Piast dynasty.
Although the royal court was moved to Kraków in the 11th
century the Wielkopolska region is synonymous with the
Piasts and their time at Poland’s helm. The Piast Route
covers the most important sites connected with Poland’s
early beginnings, and presents the mobile tourist with a
number of forts, cathedrals, ruins and miscellaneous locations to visit. For a comprehensive list visit the website of
the Piast Route Tourist Organization at www.turystyka.
powiat-gniezno.pl.
Poznań In Your Pocket
GNIEZNO
Pub Cafe ul. Warszawska 32, tel. 061 426 11 97, www.
hotel-awo.pl. Inch your way down a set of spiral stairs to find
this basement bar. Filled with sporting trophies, mirrors and
timber this is where the local lads head to in order to catch
the match, their beer poured with panache by a personable
gentleman with a theatrical moustache. Check out the posters on the walls to see what games stand to be broadcast.
QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. AW
The Gniezno Cathedral (Archikatedra
Gnieźnieńska) ul. Łaskiego 9, tel. 061 426 19 09.
Churches
Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the principal highlight of the
cathedral is the ‘Gniezno doors’, a pair of winged bronze
doors dating from the 12th century, and it’s here you’ll begin
your tour. Regarded as one of the most important pieces
of Romanesque art in Poland the doors feature 18 panels,
each masterfully engraved with scenes from the life of St
Adalbert. Start from Adalbert’s birth on the bottom left panel,
and then follow his story upwards and around. Of note are an
exorcism illustrated on the sixth panel, and his murder on the
fourteenth. That’s his head on a stick in the next.
Holy Trinity Church (Kościół Św. Trójcy) ul. Farna 6, tel.
061 426 15 55. An interesting church with a Gothic tower whose
key feature is a ‘millennium clock’ complete with a moving figure
of St Adalbert. Much of the church was destroyed by fire and its
interiors were thereafter treated with a baroque brush. Outside are
the only skeletal remains of the ancient city walls which once ringed
Gniezno. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Museums
Museum of Gniezno Archdiocese (Muzeum Archidiecezji Gnieźnieńskiej) ul. Kolegiaty 2, tel. 061 426
37 78, www.muzeumag.pl. If you’re eyes are still hankering
for the sight of more treasure then head here to view a lavish
collection of ecclesiastical riches: gold goblets, embroidered
vestments, state gifts received by cardinals, oil paintings, coffin
portraits and even a chalice purporting to have once belonged
to St. Adalbert are all presented here. An absolute feast for the
eyes that is sure to present moral dilemmas for kleptomaniacs.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. From May Open
09:00-17:00, Sun 09:00-16:00. Admission 4/3zł.
The Museum of the Origins of the Polish State
(Muzeum Początków Państwa Polskiego) ul.
Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. 061 426 46 41, www.mppp.pl.
Housed in a functional concrete carbuncle this museum features numerous audio-visual presentations designed to appeal
to the numerous school trips that file through the doors, as
well copies of archaeological relics dating back to the founding
of the Polish state - that means lots of pots, vases, bowls and
daggers. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. From May Open
09:30-17:30. Mon closed.Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket 18zł, group ticket over
10 people 5,50/3,50zł per person, Sun free.
Old town
Gniezno received its city charter in 1285, and as with all towns the
action came firmly centred around the market square (Rynek). The
great fire of Gniezno in 1819 gutted this area, and most buildings
have been rebuilt since that day. Look closely and you’ll see red
bricks marking what once formed the town perimeter, as well as
nameplates dedicated to the cities and firms who have funded
more recent restoration work. The little pyramid structures denote
where the town gates once were. What remains of the old city walls
can be found south of the Rynek close to ul. Słomianki and the
Holy Trinity Church. You’ll notice religious buildings at every turn,
though predictably none representing the Jewish faith; the towns
one synagogue suffered a fiery fate after a high-ranking nazi official
broke his leg while clambering up it in a post-party alcoholic stupor.
Infuriated by his misfortune the budding fascist ordered the buildings destruction. In recent years the towns finest moment came
when the Congress of Gniezno was held here in 2000. The leaders
of Germany, Poland, Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia met in
Gniezno to celebrate the town millennium, and in a symbol of unity
planted five oak trees in the ‘reconciliation valley’ running north of
the Rynek. The German chancellor later dined in the restaurant of
the Hotel Pietrak (itself a former vodka factory), and diners have
the opportunity to order exactly what he ate.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Gniezno’s cathedral is regarded as the spiritual home of
Poland’s former monarchy - it’s here Poland’s first five kings
were crowned. To truly enjoy it requires two visits; a guided
tour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, while
a follow up solo tour allows you to take stock of the riches
and relics before you.
Now, here’s the interesting part. This might be one of the
most important treasures in Poland, but no-one has a clue
who designed it. In fact, it’s highly likely the pair of doors
weren’t even made together. Look closely and you’ll see that
the left side is higher and wider, as well as more detailed in
its engravings, indicating that the set of doors are possibly
the work of a master and his apprentice. We do know they
probably originated in Germany, but the trail stops there.
The portal that frames the door is worth further investigation
in its own right. Dating from 1400 it features an engraving of
Jesus sitting on a rainbow (rainbows were believed to mark
the entrance to heaven). The two swords in his mouth are
symbolic of the power he wields in both heaven and earth,
while the animals carved in stone represent human vices - for
instance the rabbit is cowardice, the squirrel greed and the
fox cunning. Keep your eyes peeled for the scratching on the
left side - what looks like the work of a vandals key is actually
the sign of the craftsmen who built the portal (in those days
artists marked their work with a sign, not a signature).
Next up on your tour is a trip to the crypt. In it there’s Poland’s
oldest gravestone, as well as the remains of a fireplace that
pre-dates the cathedral - indication that the site was most
probably a pagan place of worship. Early foundations and
details have also been excavated, and one can view remains
of an early alter, walls and tiled flooring (whose patterning is
copied on the ten złoty note). It’s here you’ll also be able to
view the coffins of the past primates of Poland, as well as a
collection of mysterious looking urns and pots.
And so, onto the cathedral proper. Recently subject to
renovation work Gniezno Cathedral looks finer than ever.
Originally built between 1324 and 1370 the cathedral has
been patched up and embellished over the course of time,
and nowadays it is the baroque flourishes that steal the show.
It’s impossible to put a figure on the number of must see
details, and it’s at this stage where having a guide becomes
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre Rynek 14, tel. 061
428 41 00, www.szlakpiastowski.com.pl. An Aladdin’s cave of Gniezno related info. Expect English language
pamphlets, maps and brochures, as well as hotel and
restaurant lists and guided tours supplied courtesy of
an amicable young team of local enthusiasts.QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From April Open 09:0018:00, Sat 09:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-14:00.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
invaluable. First off, you’ll
have differences between
the nave and presbytery
pointed out - the style of
the former suggests it was
built in Germany, while the
latter has a design more
familiar with English and
French workshops. The 13
arcades around the presbytery are symbolic of Jesus and
the 12 apostles, and there’s a heavy emphasis on allegorical symbolism.
Head to the furthest side chapel on the left of the main entrance to see paintings of Polish saints, passing on your way
one of only two works by Wit Stwosz found outside Krakow.
In total the cathedral is surrounded by 13 side chapels, whom
when grouped together constitute the largest collection of
ecclesiastical grating in the country. Behind these metal
grills are a number of points of interest, including a miracle
working crucifix found in the Chapel of Jesus. The cross has
accompanied the Polish army into battle since the 17th
century when it was first seen to bleed.
The confession, situated at the top end of the cathedral, is
stunning, and said to be modelled on the Confession of St
Peter’s in Rome. Behind it is the silver sarcophagus of St
Adalbert, designed by Gdańsk master craftsman Peter van
Rennen. Considered the most important relic in the country
the silver coffin is balanced on six eagles, and carried on the
figures of a priest, peasant, townsperson and knight.
Unfortunately visitors are denied the opportunity to view the
library. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book (dating
from 880AD), a papal edict that features the first recorded
use of the Polish language, and numerous letters penned by
Poland’s former regents. As frustrating as this locked door
policy is it’s fully understandable. The cathedral has had
misfortune served up by the spade. Its significance to the
Polish state has not been lost on invaders and as a result it’s
been burned, looted, battered and destroyed on numerous
occasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into a stable, while the
‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no apparent reason.
The Nazis, on the other hand, had other plans. Hitler’s portrait
replaced that of St Adalbert and the cathedral was earmarked to
serve as a concert venue for high ranking fascists. However, on
the opening night, just when these Nazi nabobs were settling into
their seats a bishop drifted unannounced across the hall, disappearing into the crypt below. Shots were fired at the unannounced
gatecrasher, but none hit their mark. Was this a ghostly apparition,
or simply the work of a local prankster? Thoroughly spooked the
Nazis weren’t hanging around to find out, and plans to turn the
cathedral into a concert hall were shelved thereafter.
Although the German occupiers refused to set foot in the
cathedral it still wasn’t safe from their beastly designs.
Employing Volksdeutsch workers they set about stripping
the building of its valuables, melting the gold and shipping off
countless treasures to shady vaults. The confession escaped
them, however, hidden single-handedly by one conscientious
worker. The organ too survived, only to be blown to smithereens by the Soviets in 1945. The bell shared the same fate,
and the original one now lies outside the main entrance. The
bell tower is open in better weather and its 214 steps lead to
panoramic views across town. What you won’t find however is
a bell - ever since the Russians re-arranged the cathedral all
the bells have been housed in a separate building. Q Open
09:00 - 11:45, 13:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From May Open
09:00 - 11:45, 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
March - June 2009
77
78
ŁÓDŹ
Łódź In Your Pocket
Your first lesson in Polish.
ŁÓDŹ
Łódź may look like it’s pronounced Lodz, but it most
certainly isn’t. Think of it as
Woodge, and three hundred
years ago a visit here would
have produced the sight of
little more than one man and
his dog. In terms of age Łódź
is one of the youngest cities
in the country, and a direct
product of the Industrial
Revolution. And while Łódź
cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Kraków
a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller
with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and
some of the countries finest after-dark venues – you’ll
find them all inside the current issue of Łódź In Your
Pocket; Poland’s first comprehensive English-language
guide to the city.
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
January - April 2009
Radogoszcz
The prison and its story
Łódź in a
Nutshell
The best of a city
shrunk to fit
N°9 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1896-1169
Getting there
Łódź lies South East of Poznań and is easily accessed by train. If
you’re travelling from Poznań you’ll need to book a ticket running
to Łódź Kaliska train station, allowing approximately four hours
for journey time. Only a few trains a day run from Poznań, so if
you’re determined to get there then your best bet will be going
via Warsaw. If travelling from the capital you’ll need a ticket to
Łódź Fabryczna station. The city centre is directly across the
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry
on walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street,
ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys taxis
stand directly outside the main entrance, though travellers
should only use cabs that are clearly marked. Those taking the
Poznań train will arrive at Łódź Kaliska station, approximately
two kilometres from the centre. Taxis stand outside and you
should pay no more than 15zł to get to the city centre.
Some basics
Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the name
of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater for
the following centuries, with a population numbering just 800
as late as the 16th century. The birth of modern Łódź as we
know it can be traced to 1820, when statesman, philosopher
and writer Stanisław Staszic began a campaign to turn the
Russian-controlled city into a manufacturing centre. The first
cotton mill was opened in 1825 and by 1839 the first steampowered factory in Poland was officially christened. A massive
influx of workers from as far afield as Portugal, England and
France flooded the city, though the mainstay of the town’s
population remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a
matter of decades Łódź had grown into the biggest textile
production centre in the Russian Empire, during which time
vast fortunes were made by the major industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich. The following six years
of occupation left the population decimated with 120,000
Poznań In Your Pocket
Poles killed, and an estimated 300,000 Jews perishing in
what was to become known as the Litzmannstadt ghetto.
Following the war, and with much of Warsaw in ruins, Łódź was
used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. The wholesale
war-time destruction of Warsaw also saw many of Poland’s
eminent artists and cultural institutes decamp to the nearest
big city; that city was Łódż, and today the town can boast a
rich cultural heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, one
of the most important modern art galleries in Europe, and an
exciting underground culture.
Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history. Overlooked
by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of hidden charms:
from the awesome palaces that belonged to the hyper-rich
industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s longest pedestrian
street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest municipal park in Europe.
You’ll find everything you need to know about the city in our
print guide to Łódź, as well as our full content online at www.
inyourpocket.com.
Manufaktura
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself
‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura,
for once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed
more than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’t
be calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of
150,000m2 Manufaktura does of course feature a mall
with endless shopping opportunities, but that would not
tell the full story.
Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation
project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the
1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed
in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the
old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed.
Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file
through everyday on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at
the projects ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main square).
Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square is the cultural
hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema crowded
around it. A full program of events is planned to keep things
lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and big screen
showings of sports events.
With a catchment area of 1.8 million people in a 50km radius
Manufaktura expect 15 million visitors in the first year alone.
For the more languorous character two electric tramlines
have also been added to ferry visitors from one end of the
complex to the other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura
remains very much a work in progress; further additions
include the transformation of the showpiece Spinning Mill
into a conference centre, office block and a four star hotel,
as well as the addition of a huge modern art centre, children’s
museum and technological museum.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
80
GETTING AROUND
Car rental
Avis ul. Bukowska 285,
(Ławica Airport), tel. 061
849 23 35, w w w.avis.pl.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Telephone line manned 24 hrs a day.
Budget ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 0 601
35 46 89, www.budget.pl. Phone reservations recommended on weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
Eur opcar ul.
Bukowska 285
(Ławica Airport),
tel. 061 849 23
57, www.europcar.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30.
Hertz ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061 868
41 77, www.hertz.com.pl. Twenty-four hour number 0 605
15 04 23. Q Open 08:00 -18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun
14:00 - 17:00.
Lucas Car Rental ul. Rolna 35 (Wilda), tel. 061 670
75 75, www.lucasrental.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Sun open on request.
National ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061
849 23 84, www.nationalcar.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sat, Sun Open on request.
Sixt ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. 061 847
14 68, www.sixt.pl. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 13:30, 16:00 - 18:30.
Poznań In Your Pocket
GETTING AROUND
By bus
Public transport
Poznań lies on the main highway (E30) between Warsaw and
Berlin, and is served by frequent Eurolines buses. While the
bus station is not one of the most modern you are likely to
visit, it does have all the services you will need including
toilets, tourist information and left luggage lockers.
Poznań is criss-crossed by 20 tram routes (of which one runs
at night), and 56 bus lines (21 at night). During the day these
run from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams running approximately every ten minutes, and buses every twelve.
Eurolines C-3, ul. Półwiejska 41, tel. 061 853 12 28,
www.eurolinespolska.pl. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Main Bus Station (Główny Dworzec Autobusowy)
F-4, ul. Towarowa 17/19, tel. 061 664 25 25, www.
pks.poznan.pl. Q Ticket office Open 05:30 - 19:30, Sat,
Sun 06:30-19:30.
By car
Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30 highway
between Warsaw and Berlin. Driving around Poznań’s one way
streets can be trying and as the Market Square is closed to
traffic you may have to drive half way around the city to get
from one side to the other.
Most parking spaces in Poznań are paid and marked by a blue
line. Fancy parking meters need chip-cards, costing 1.20zł/
half hour and 2.40zł/hour weekdays 10:00 - 18:00 and Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Chip cards are sold in some shops, cafés and
from the parking authority SOP. A combination of traffic jams
and car crime make it advisable to leave your car in one of
the guarded car parks dotted around the city and use the
local transport system to get around.
Guarded Parking G-2, Al. Niepodległości 36.
Guarded Parking E-3, ul. Roosvelta (Hotel Mercure).
poznan.inyourpocket.com
When buying a ticket travellers
are presented with a galaxy of
options. Fares are as follows:
Tram/bus tickets:
Journeys of up to fifteen minutes:
2.00zł (concessions 1.00zł)
Up to 30 minutes:
3.60zł (1.80zł)
Up to 60 minutes:
5.80zł (2.90zł)
There are also express lines which run to the airport amongst
other places and whose numbers are prefixed with either
‘A’, ‘P’ or ‘L’.
Express lines for up to 15 minutes: 4.00zł (2.00zł)
Express lines for up to 30 minutes: 7.20zł (3.60zł)
Express lines for up to 60 minutes: 11.60zł (5.80zł)
Tickets valid for 24 hours are also available (13.20zł/6.60zł),
as are weekly passes (32zł/16zł).
If you thought it couldn’t get anymore complicated you’d be
wrong. Those using the bus (and bus only), can also choose
from one ride tickets for up to ten stops (2.20zł/1.10zł), for
over ten stops (3.70zł/1.85zł), as well as express and seasonal lines for up to ten stops (4.20zł/2.10zł), and over ten
stops (7.00zł/3.50zł).
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Children under four and adults over 70 travel for free, and discounts are available for students aged under 26 and youths
in possession of an ISIC card. Tickets can be purchased from
the newsagent kiosks around town and the Polish word for
ticket is ‘bilet’.
Long term visitors can also buy a KOMkarta, an electronic card
that is valid for 30 days. These can be purchased from one
of the eleven MPK ticket points in the city, and then topped
up in the same place, or at one of the Ruch kiosks you see
around the town.
Our advice if you are here for a few
days is to pick up the Poznan City
Card which gives you free unlimited
use of the public transport system
as part of the price. It’ll save an
awful lot of headaches.
It is extremely important that you remember to validate your
ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’ found by the bus/
tram exit as soon as you board. If you don’t have a valid ticket
and find yourself nicked by a plain clothes inspector you’ll be
fined 100zł on the spot. Many don’t look very official so you
are within your rights to ask for their ID. You can opt to pay
within seven days (in which case the fine rises to 140zł), or
within 14 days (200zł).
Foreigners thinking they can slip out of the country without paying up are in for a nasty surprise. You’re passport
details will have been noted, and border guards will gleefully place you in custody - it’s not worth the trouble, trust
us. Finally, although crime is rare be on guard against
pickpockets, par ticularly if making the journey to and
from the airport.
March - June 2009
81
82
GETTING AROUND
Airlines
Unless stated otherwise the following offices are based in
Warsaw. Phone numbers listed are central call centres and
all should have English-speaking staff. For full local flight
schedule visit www.airport-poznan.com.pl.
Aer Lingus tel. 022 626 84 02, www.aerlingus.com.
Aeroflot al. Jerozolimskie 29, tel. 022 628 25 57/022
628 17 10, www.aeroflot.com.
Air Europa ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 022 455 38
40/022 455 38 44, www.aireuropa.com.
Air France ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 556 64 00,
fax 022 556 64 15, www.airfrance.com.
Alitalia ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 692 82 85, www.
alitalia.it.
American Airlines al. Ujazdowskie 20, tel. 022 625
30 02, www.aa.com.
Austrian Airlines ul. Sienna 39, tel. 022 627 52 90,
www.austrianairlines.pl.
Belavia ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 650
23 14, www.belavia.by.
British Airways ul. Krucza 49, tel. 022 529 90 00,
www.ba.com.
Centralwings tel. 801 45 45 45, www.centralwings.
com.
CSA pl. Zawiszy 1 (Jan III Sobieski Hotel), tel. 659 67
99/668 74 71, www.csa.cz.
easyJet www.easyjet.com.
European Air Express tel. 071 358 11 00, www.
eae.aero.
Minibuses
Biznestransport ul. Trakt Lubelski 358, Warsaw, tel.
0 505 31 16 99, www.biznestransport.pl. Save considerable sums, and even time, on train travel by hiring a minibus to
travel inter-city. Full size luxury buses and limousines are also
available and these guys can also stretch to courier services
and even warehousing. Q Open 24hrs.
Taxis
Most taxis these days are reliable and use their metres but
be aware of rogue taxis which hang around train stations
and certain hotels. Make sure that your cab as a sign on
the roof marked with the name of the company rather than
just a simple ‘taxi’ sign. Once inside make sure the driver
turns on the metre and you should be fine. Under Polish law
the driver should now have a cash register in the cab and is
obliged to give you a printed receipt for your fare. You should
expect to pay 5zl on entering the taxi followed by 2zl per
kilometre. Prices rise at weekends and late at night and for
travel outside of the city limits. Taxis are obliged to display
their prices in the windows of the cab so you can compare and
check prices. Note that many firms offer a discount to their
published prices if you phone and book one in advance.
Travelling on?
Online guides to Poland at
www.inyourpocket.com
Poznań In Your Pocket
Eurowings ul. Skarżyńskiego 36 (airport), tel. 071
357 70 03, www.eurowings.de. Lufthansa agent.
Finnair ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Plaza), tel. 022 657 01
29, www.finnair.com.
Germanwings www.germanwings.com.
LOT ul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport, Poznań), tel.
022 95 72/0 801 70 37 03, www.lot.com.
Lufthansa ul. Sienna 39 (Warsaw Towers), tel. 022
338 13 00, www.lufthansa.pl.
Norwegian Air Shuttle ASA www.norwegian.no.
RyanAir www.ryanair.com.
SAS ul. Sienna 39 (Warsaw Towers), tel. 022 850 05
00, www.scandinavian.net.
SkyEurope ul. Żwirki Wigury 1 (Courtyard by Marriott), tel. 022 433 07 33, www.skyeurope.com.
Swiss ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 697 66
00, www.swiss.com.
Wizz Air tel. 022 351 94 99, www.wizzair.com.
Express Taxi , tel. 061 96 24, www.taxiexpress.pl.
Also vans and microbuses.
Hallo Taxi , tel. 061 96 23.
M1 taxi , tel. 061 96 69/061 822 22 22.
MPT Taxi , tel. 061 91 91.
Radio Lux Taxi , tel. 061 96 62, www.luxtaxi.com.
pl. Poznan’s most reliable taxi firm. All taxis are Mercedes
and drivers wear a collar and tie. Ordering a taxi in Poland
can still be a lottery as there are no apparent standards
for how the taxi should look so if you want to make sure
that you or your guest is picked up by something that
doesn’t look like it has a dog sleeping in the back you
should really give these guys a call. They also accept
credit cards.
Radio Taxi Poznań , tel. 061 96 22, www.taxi.com.
pl.
Travel agencies
Almatur B-3, ul. Ogrodowa 9/43, tel. 061 855 76 33,
www.almatur.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Blue Sky Travel F-2, ul. Roosevelta 2, tel. 061 841 09
00, www.bluesky.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
Fly Away Travel D-1, ul. Wroniecka 17, tel. 061 853
03 57, www.flyaway.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Orbis Travel C-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 21, tel. 061 851
20 00, www.orbistravel.poznan.pl. Q Open 09:30-17:30,
Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun.
Tui Centrum Podróży E-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 7, tel. 061
847 11 78, www.tui.pl/wct. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
84
GETTING AROUND
Train schedule
Train smarts
From Poznań
To Poznań
Dep. Arr.
Destination
Dep. Arr.
10:27 13:15
BERLIN Ostbf
06:40 09:27
14:27 17:27
BERLIN Hbf
12:29 15:27
02:02 09:18
KRAKÓW
05:47 13:12
05:47 13:19
KRAKÓW
07:47 15:12
07:35 15:19
KRAKÓW
12:47 20:11
12:35 20:18
KRAKÓW
15:47 23:07
08:23 14:18
GDYNIA
04:37 09:37
12:23 18:22
GDYNIA
10:31 15:34
18:10 00:12
GDYNIA
14:30 19:30
02:20 06:05
WARSAW
05:55 09:19
07:00 10:00
WARSAW
07:35 10:24
09:30 12:20
WARSAW
09:55 13:28
10:26 14:05
WARSAW
12:35 15:26
12:30 15:20
WARSAW
13:35 16:35
15:30 18:20
WARSAW(1)
15:35 18:21
18:30 21:25
WARSAW
17:35 20:30
19:30 22:20
WARSAW
18:00 21:32
02:02 04:32
WROCŁAW
06:35 09:12
06:45 09:20
WROCŁAW
10:06 12:27
07:35 10:20
WROCŁAW
10:35 13:12
09:40 12:20
WROCŁAW
12:35 15:12
12:35 15:18
WROCŁAW
14:06 16:27
13:46 16:50
WROCŁAW
14:35 17:15
14:35 17:20
WROCŁAW
15:35 18:07
15:35 18:02
WROCŁAW
15:54 18:57
18:35 21:19
WROCŁAW
16:35 19:15
18:45 21:50
WROCŁAW
17:35 20:11
19:45 22:20
WROCŁAW
19:35 22:12
(1) - Mon - Fri, Sun
Most trains running to and from Gdynia (Berlin apart)
stop at Gdańsk and Sopot. Journey time is 30 minutes
to Gdańsk and 10 to Sopot.
Trains are subject to change on public holidays.
Train schedule is subject to change due to ongoing
works (track improvements).
For a full schedule check www.pkp.pl
The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape even if
the rolling stock is by and large something you may have
travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly better than
Britain’s railways; you’ll find most trains run on time, are
cheap, and don’t crash. Travelling times are generally pretty
slow even on express and Intercity trains with limited highspeed sections of track throughout the country. That is
being remedied but in turn this is causing increased travelling
times on many lines. Tickets are by western standards very
cheap with a first -class ticket to Krakow from Warsaw for
instance setting you back about 130zl (about €35).
By train
The main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is opposite the
fairgrounds and about 10 minutes by taxi from the Market Square.
There is a Poznań City Information (Informacja Miejska Poznan)
counter in the station, however your best bet is Glob-Tour, a private
tourist office-cum-bookshop that sells guides, maps and organises
apartment rental. Glob-Tour also exchanges currency. If you are
only staying for a couple of hours leave your luggage in the left
luggage room (przechowalnia bagażu). It costs 2zł per item per
day plus 1.5% of value in your bag; Open 06:00 to 22:30. Tram and
bus tickets can be bought from the MPK kiosk on the right when
leaving the train station building, open 06:00 - 20:00.
Tickets for domestic trains can be bought at windows N°2-14
in the main hall and while most are open 24hrs you will find
queues. Do allow yourself time to get your ticket although it
is now possible to purchase tickets on board the train for a
small fee. International tickets are sold at windows N°1 and
7 (open 08:00 - 19:00). You can return tickets at all windows,
but talk to the information office first.
Trains are reached by heading into the tunnel under the Relay newsagents where you will see signs for the different platforms (peron).
The station has a coffee shop, KFC and a few snack bars
but if you have time to kill, it is recommended to take the
10 minute walk over to the nearby Sheraton where you can
wait for your train in comfortable surroundings without being
bothered by beggars every 2 minutes.
Main Train Station (Dworzec Główny) E-4, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. 061 633 39 92, www.pkp.pl.
Poznań In Your Pocket
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types
of train. Intercity (also known as Eurocity or just IC) trains
are the fastest, newest and most expensive of the lot,
with first and second class compartments holding up to
six people. New rolling stock is appearing with open carriages and 220v AV sockets. Ekspress are supposed to
be older and slower and pack more people into less space
than the former, but this distinction is slowly disappearing
as both tracks and rolling stock get older. Use either of
the above for long-distance journeys. Both come with
dining carriages, though be warned, anyone falling asleep
will incur the full wrath of the steward. Smokers should
not make the mistake of booking a seat in a smoking
compartment - you will die within minutes. Cheapskates
looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper
Tanie Linie Kolejowe (TLK), Pospieszny (posp) or Osobowy
(os.) trains; you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your
journey is guaranteed to try your good humour.
With the exception of pociąg osobowy trains, ticket
prices include a seperate seat reservation charge. More
information on train times and prices check the very
useful www.pkp.pl which has an English option. There
is the functionality to book tickets online once you have
registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp) but
you will need the help of a Polish speaker present. This
option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one without
the hassle of queuing at the station.
If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train
station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on the
desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor.
You’ll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 8zł), and
credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected
to greet others in their compartment with a curt ‘dzien
dobry’, and it is taken as given that a male passenger
will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage.
Travelling by train should hold no fear, though you may have
the misfortune of sharing a compartment with a woman
who has no qualms with silencing errant children with a
thump to the head. Or even worse, sharing a compartment
with perky army discharges. Upgrading to first class for a
cursory fee is usually enough to avoid these pitfalls.
Finally most stations throughout the country are appalling lacking in signs denoting the station name and
it’s surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicating
with your fellow passengers can save a lot of time and
frustration.
Arrivals Przyjazdy
Departures Odjazdy
Platform Peron
poznan.inyourpocket.com
86
MAIL & PHONES
Here you’ll find all the information you need from the pirates at TPSA who’ll require you to mortgage your house to
phone home to the minefield that is the Polish Post Office.
We’ll tell you where to do it and how with the least amount
of hassle possible
Express mail
DHL ul. Komornicka 1, Głuchowo, tel. 0 801 34 53 45,
www.dhl.com.pl. A damn site easier and quicker then using
the bog standard post. That said its also not the cheapest
way to send your bits and bobs. Biggest plus is they will at
least to communicate with you in English. QOpen 08:00 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
EMS Pocztex , tel. 0 804 10 41 04, www.pocztex.pl.
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
TNT ul. Wybieg 5/9 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 878 25
00, www.tnt.com.pl. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
UPS ul. Bałtycka 6 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 815 14 00,
www.ups.com.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Internet cafes
Cafe Cz@towa ul. Głogowska 142 (Grunwald), tel.
061 661 55 31. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
3.50zł per hour. Printing and cd-burning services available.
Ecafe F-3, ul. Roosevelta 10/5, tel. 061 843 26 69,
www.ecafe.net.pl. Q Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. 4zł per hour. Printing and cd-burning services
available.
Post
The going price for a non-priority letter under 20g:
Poland 1.35zł
Europe 2.40zł
the rest of the world 2.50zł
Main Post Office (Główny Urząd Pocztowy) A-2, ul.
Kościuszki 77, tel. 061 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska.
pl. If you read the introduction above you’ll already have a
vivid picture of what to expect. Poznan is no exception to the
rule. You can expect to play musical windows for the best part
of half an hour followed by a short lesson in the customers
always wrong. Keep smiling and they may let you out alive.
QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Post Office C-1, ul. 23 Lutego 28, tel. 061 886 55 01,
www.poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
SHOPPING
Country codes
Australia
Austria
Belgium
Bulgaria
Canada
Czech Rep.
Denmark
France
61
43
32
359
1
420
45
33
Germany
49
Greece
30
Hungary
36
Ireland
353
Israel
972
Italy
39
Japan
81
Netherlands 31
Poland
Romania
Russia
Spain
Sweden
UK
Ukraine
USA
48
40
7
34
46
44
380
1
Polish city codes
Gdańsk
Katowice
Kraków
Łódź
Lublin
58
32
12
42
81
Poznań
Rzeszów
Szczecin
Warsaw
Wrocław
61
17
97
22
71
Wi-fi access
If you’re travelling with the laptop then you’ll find a growing number
of internet hotspots in and around central Poznań. All three of
Poland’s mobile networks offer Wi-Fi connection, and you will be
able to go online in most of their major retail outlets.
W Throughout our guide we have highlighted those
establishments (hotels, cafés, restaurants and bars) which
offer wireless free internet connection. This covers both
free access, where you are likely to need a network key and
password from the bar/reception, and paid access where you
will have to buy a card. Most places will have cards available
for sale. A typical choice is the cards necessary for Orange
hotspots. You can buy a card for a straight 2 hours connection
or you can pay 19zł for a card which allows you 2 hours
connection over a period of 2 months. Useful if you don’t want
to use up 2 hours wi-fi time in one go. In both cases you will be
given a scratch card which carries a number. Open an explorer
window and follow the on-screen instructions.
Post Office (Poczta Polska) os. Orła Białego 3 (Nowe
Miasto), tel. 061 886 57 01, www.poczta-polska.pl.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Post Office D-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. 061 886 55 19,
www.poczta-polska.pl. The post office in the old town area.
Send and receive packages and letters from windows N°1-3,
and buy stamps at N°2 and 3. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Prepaid cards
Avoid steep roaming costs when visiting Poland by buying a prepaid SIM card and sticking it in your mobile. Several companies now
offer a prepaid service. Below is a comparative list of what it costs to set up and use each of them. Top-ups are available in most
press kiosks unless otherwise noted. All prices quoted are for peak time calls and were correct at the time of going to press.
Price
Local
London
Top-up
SMS
Coverage
(zł)
(zł/min)
(zł/min)
(zł)
(zł)
(%)
Orange
5/10/20
0.65
2.71
5/25/50/100
0.20
97
Heyah
5/20
0.68
1.71
5/20/30/50
0.20
95
Era Tak Tak
9/20
0.77
2.83
5/25/50/100/150
0.22
95
5/10/30/40/50/60/80/100/150
Simplus
9/18
0.78
2.06
0.20
99.5
Sami Swoi
9.99
0.66
2.00
10/20/40/80/160
0.24
99.5
Play
9/30
0.59
1.60
10/30/50/100/150
0.18
99.5
Mobilking
20
0.39
2.00
10/20/50
0.15
99
Subscribers to Heyah benefit from a 'równa taryfa' tariff - calls to all EU countries are priced at 0.44zł per minute, and
each SMS 0.14zł per message.
Card
Poznań In Your Pocket
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Despite the rumors you may have heard Poland does now
have toilet roll, in fact Poland represents somewhat of a
shoppers paradise. A fantastic selection of shops, and
generally cheaper or, much cheaper then the prices you’ll
find at home. Poles are particularly fashion conscious and
accordingly there is a dazzling array of clothes to choose
from.
Antiques
Antykwariat (Antiques) B-2, ul. Kantaka 10, tel.
061 851 88 10. Solid collection of antiques collected by
Piotr Sobisiak. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Antykwariat Kolekcjoner (Antique Shop) D-1,
ul. Kramarska 20, tel. 061 853 07 82. Eclectic mix of
antiques with antique Roman coins. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00,
Sat 12:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Desa D-2, ul. Wielka 24, tel. 061 851 53 91, www.
desa.art.pl. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Filatelistyka B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 37, tel. 061 853 63
68. Coins and stamps in the courtyard. QOpen 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Galeria Michał Skowron D-1, ul. Wroniecka 2/3,
tel. 061 853 01 97, www.galeriaskowron.pl. Classy
old furniture. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Horn D-2, ul. Stary Rynek 42, tel. 061 851 56 27.
Antiques and an art gallery on the main square. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Books & Paper
Empik C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061
667 12 00, www.empik.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
Ksiegarnia Powszechna (World Bookshop) C-2, ul.
Stary Rynek 63, tel. 061 851 82 07, www.powszechna.
pl. Your one stop shop for intellectual stimulation. A large
bookshop in a prime spot with late opening hours. There
is a wide selection of English-langage books near the back
and to the left on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Ksiegarnia Uniwersytecka (University Bookshop) E-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 7, tel. 061 847 02
81, www.ksiegarnia-uam.win.pl. The main university
bookshop. Q Open 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:30.
Closed Sun.
Omnibus B-2, ul. Św. Marcin 39, tel. 061 853 61 82,
www.omnibus.com.pl. Language books. QOpen 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Clothes
Ermenegildo Zegna C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel.
061 852 14 22, www.zegna.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Max Mara C-2, ul. Paderewskeigo 8 (Bazar Poznański),
tel. 061 852 12 51, www.clubmode.pl. Also on ul.
Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Mode Boutique C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. 061
852 66 07. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Paryżanka-Moschino C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7
(Pasaż Niebieski), tel. 061 852 28 70. Also on ul.
Ratajczaka 45. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Stary Browar shopping mall
Stary Browar Shopping Mall G-4, ul.
Półwiejska 42, tel. 061
859 60 50, www.starybrowar.pl. Housed in an
old brewery dating from
1844, the
award-winning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art, leisure and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of Poznań’s
economic renaissance. Its completion also marks a move
away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend
for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home to the
Huggera Brewery, the building has always cast a huge
influence on the city with beer production hitting 72,000
hectalitres in 1918. Even under German occupation the
building continued to churn out piwo, with production only
ceasing in 1944 when the basement was converted into
bunkers and air-raid shelters.
Heavily damaged in the siege of Poznań the hulk of a
building finally stopped brewing beer in 1980. Stary
Browar carried on operating at a fraction of its capacity
producing mineral water, though it was only in 1998 that
it was finally awarded a new lease of life. Bought by the
Fortis group, an original investment of US$66 million saw
the building transformed. Opened amid much fanfare in
November 2003 the shopping mall now covers an area
of over 100,000m2, and draws an average of 40,000
people daily. With over 210 retail units, including the
Van Graaf designer store, bookshops and Alma gourmet
delicatessen, the complex has become one of the most
talked about developments in the country.
The complex won the prize for the world’s best shopping
centre in the ‘new centre medium’ category, as judged
by award the International Council of Shopping Centres
(ICSC). Summer 2007 marked the completion of phase
II of the Stary Browar project - the expansion of a new
wing, thereby nearly doubling SB in size. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Flowers
Baccara - Art B-3, ul. Ratajczaka 21, tel. 061 853
71 78. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun.
Kwiaciarnia Lewkonia A-2, ul. Św. Marcin 63, tel.
061 853 78 38, www.kwiaciarnialewkonia.com. Send
flowers to your loved ones through the Euroflorist. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Poczta Kwiatowa , tel. 022 828 95 95, www.pocztakwiatowa.pl. Flowers, fruits and vegetables. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Furniture
Abra ul. Szwajcarska 14 (Nowe Miasto-Rataje), tel. 061
652 77 11, www.abra-meble.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21.00,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Ikea ul. Szwedzka 10 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061 650 71
00, www.ikea.pl. Assemble your own furniture. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Mebest ul. Obornicka 245 (Stare Miasto), tel. 061
825 05 77, www.mebest.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
March - June 2009
87
88
DIRECTORY
SHOPPING
Mydlarnia C-2, ul. Wrocławska 8, tel. 0 501 64 61 19,
www.mydlarniapoznan.republika.pl. Q Open 10:00 -
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Sabon G-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. 061
859 62 88, www.sabon.pl. Choosing a gift is often quite
a challenging experience so the opening of the latest in a
chain of Sabon outlets, this time in Poznan’s Stary Browar
shopping mall, should make this easier. Sabon means ‘soap’
in Hebrew and the store offers a comprehensive range of
entirely natural products comprising of soaps, scrubs and
bath and body products. The soaps themselves are made
using a 70-year old Australian recipe and ingredients include
Dead Sea extracts, aromatherapy oils as well as herbs and
flowers from the Israeli countryside. All the soaps are made
at a co-operative in Northern Israel and are shipped around
the world.
Sabon in Poznan is now one of over 50 stores worldwide
which were founded in Israel. The first store opened there
in 1997 with other branches now in New York amongst others. The first store opened in Poland on St. Valentine’s day
2004 in Wrocław and you’ll now find them also in Warsaw
as well as Poznań.
One of the biggest boons for those looking to buy gifts is the
award winning packaging which include vintage apothecary
style glass jars. Sabon pride themselves on their opposition to
animal testing and the fact that all their products and packaging are made from recyclable and biodegradable products.
Check out their selection in either the Stary Browar shopping
mall (G-4) or online at www.sabon.pl QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Sephora ul. Głogowska 348 (Komorniki), tel. 061 893
66 70, www.sephora.pl. Also at ul. Szwajcarska 41 (Nowe
Miasto). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:30 - 20:00.
Hypermarkets
Auchan ul. Głogowska 432 (Grunwald-Komorniki), tel.
061 656 86 44, www.auchan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Real ul. Szwajcarska 14 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061
874 56 00, www.real.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00.
Perfume & Beauty
D’or C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. 061 852 85 53,
www.perfumeriador.eu. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun.
Escada C-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. 061 852 21
88, www.escada.com. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.
L’Occitane C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar
Shopping Mall),, tel. 061 667 13 47, www.loccitane.
com. Drawing inspiration from Mediterranean art de vivre,
L’occitane creates beauty products devoted to your well-being
and that of the environment, rich in active natural ingredients and oils and dermatologist-tested - not animal-tested.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Marionnaud C-3, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2, tel. 061 850
89 01, www.marionnaud.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
www.inyourpocket.com
Poznań In Your Pocket
Shopping malls
CH Panorama ul. Górecka 30 (Wilda), tel. 061 650
01 03, www.galeriapanorama.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
King Cross Marcelin E-3, ul. Bukowska 156, tel. 061
886 04 02, www.kingcrossmarcelin.com.pl. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Pasaż Rondo J-2, ul. Zamenhofa 133, tel. 061 874
22 90, www.pasazrondo.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
Souvenirs
Cepelia D-2, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. 061 852 58 14,
www.cepelia.pl. A leading chain of souvenir shops selling
native arts and handicrafts. Also at ul. Woźna 12 (H-3; 061
852 07 94) and ul. Ratajczaka (Żabikowo; 061 853 15 99).
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Speciality
Wine Shop G-3, Stary Rynek 62, tel. 061 852 71 53,
www.domvikingow.pl. Global wines for purchase at the
back end of the Dom Vikingow complex. QOpen 12:00 18:00.
Tax refund
Non-EU residents can claim VAT refunds on purchases
made in shops bearing the Global Refund logo. The only
condition is a minimum outlay of 200zł on your part on the
item purchased. Claim your Global Refund cheque, have it
stamped at customs before claiming your money back at
your nearest cash refund office. For full details check www.
globalrefund.com.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Whether a traveller or an ex-pat our directory has many
useful contacts for you. Click on the left for listings.
Remember to email us if you find any of our contacts
paticularly helpful or, for that matter, unhelpful. We also
welcome new additions.
24-hour pharmacies
Apteka Centralna C-1, ul. 23 lutego 18, tel. 061 852
26 25. Q Open 24 hrs.
Apteka Galenica C-3, ul. Strzelecka 2/6, tel. 061 852
99 22, www.aptekagalenica.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Business facilities
Domina Poznań Residence C-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2,
tel. 061 859 05 90, www.dominahotels.pl. Domina
Residence in Poznań will be offering conference facilities for
up to 25 people with multimedia projectors, wifi, cordless
microphones, full speaker system, 3 x 2.5m projector screens
and a 50” plasma screen. For further information please
contact Łukasz Uliszewski at Domina Residence.
Novotel Poznań Centrum G-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. 061
858 70 00, www.orbisonline.pl.
Sheraton Poznan Hotel E-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel.
061 655 20 00, www.sheraton.pl/poznan/. A choice of
7 conference rooms ranging from 35 to 210m in size with
videoconferencing and wifi available.
Consulates & Embassies
Czech Republic F-3, ul. Bukowska 285, tel. 061 849 22
92. Honorary consulate, open every day 10:00 -18:00.
Denmark E-5, ul. Strusia 10, tel. 061 866 26 28. Honorary consulate. To contact the consul, call first to arrange
a meeting.
Dentists
Radus C-3, ul. Szymańskiego 7/3, tel. 061 855 12 43,
www.radus.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
Genealogy
National Archives B-1, ul. 23 Lutego 41/43, tel. 061
852 46 01, www.poznan.ap.gov.pl.
Language schools
Private clinics
Klinika Grunwaldzka E-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 324, tel.
061 867 99 01, www.klinikagrunwaldzka.pl.
Luxmed E-3, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. 061 845 11 11,
www.luxmed.pl.
Real estate
Ewa Tracz ul. Chełmońskiego 22 (Grunwald), tel. 061
866 21 33. Sale, purchase and hire.
Global Invest ul. Powidzka 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. 061
879 48 48, www.globalinvestpoland.com.
Mamdom , www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Polands
largest Anglo-Polish Property Portal listing thousands of real
estate offers from estate agents, private individuals, government organisations and companies. Every single offer has at
least one image and the descriptions are all translated into
English by a native speaker, not a computer. You can choose to
deal directly with the sellers (who often speak English) or make
use of interpretors, drivers, and other services. Mamdom
charges no commission on any property purchases.
Relocation companies
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23,
Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, www.
corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services, excellent storage facilities and relocations to and within Europe. Office and
local moves also handled.
Universal Express Worldwide Movers C-3, ul.
Ogrodowa 9, tel. 061 896 15 02, www.uer.pl. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Spa
La Beaute’ ul. Kościelna 39d (Jeżyce), tel. 061 851 32
37, www.thalgo.poznan.pl.
Translators & Interpreters
Biuro Tłumaczeń Delta ul. Starowiejska 1a/5 (Stare
Miasto), tel. 061 828 80 81, www.delta-translators.
com.pl. English & German translations.
Business Service ul. Szeherezady 47 (Grunwald), tel.
061 868 44 47. European and oriental languages.
Lingua-Service ul. Słubicka 19a (Stare Miasto), tel.
061 823 06 19, www.tlumacz.icpnet.pl.
Berlitz G-4, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2, tel. 061 850 95 95,
www.berlitz.pl.
EMPiK B-1, ul. 27 grudnia 17/19 (2nd floor), tel. 061
851 00 62, www.empik.edu.pl. 30/05 p.r. they have also
division on ul. Św. Marcin 46/50, and ul. Ratajczaka 44
Local government
Poznań City Hall H-3, Pl. Kolegiacki 17, tel. 061 878 52
00, www.poznan.pl. Ryszard Grobelny mayor 061 878 55 06.
Department of Information and Development: 061 878 56 95.
Department of Culture and Art: 061 878 54 55. Department of
Sports, Recreation and Tourism: 061 878 53 51.
Places of worship
Muslim Culture & Recreation Centre
(Muzułmańskie Centrum Kulturalno-Oświatowe)
ul. Biedrzyckiego 13 (Wilda), tel. 0 507 75 43 01, www.
islam.org.pl. Q Services on Fridays at 13:00.
poznan.inyourpocket.com
March - June 2009
89
Domina
Residence
Brovaria
Stare Miasto
Sheraton
Poznan
96
STREET REGISTER
23 Lutego
B/C-1
27 Grudnia
B-2
3 Maja
B-1/2
Al. Armii Poznań
G-1/2
Al. Cytadelowiczów
G-1
Al. Marcinkowskiego C-1/2
Al. Niepodległości
A-1/3
Al. Republik
H-1
Al. Wielkopolska E-1/F-2
Barzyńskiego
E/F-2
Bastionowa
G-1
Berdychowo
I-4
Bnińska
K-2/3
Bolesława Krzywoustego
H/I-5
Brandstaettera
H-1
Bukowska
E-3/4
Bydgoska
J-2/3
Cegielskiego
H-4
Chopina
F-2/3
Chwiałkowskiego
F/G-5
Cicha
F/G-2
Czartoria
H/I-3
Długa
C/D-3
Dominikańska
D-1
Dożynkowa
G-1
Droga Dębińska
H-5
Drzewna
F-4/5
Drzymały
E/F-1
Dworcowa
E/F-4
Działowa
G-2
Działyńskich
B-1
Dziekańska
I-2/3
Ewangelicka
H-3/H/I-4
Filipińska
I/J-3
Franciszkańska
C-2
Fredry
A-1/2
Gajowa
E-3
Garbary
D-1/2
Garncarska
A-2
gen. Dąbrowskiego
E-3
gen. Maczka
F-1
Głogowska
E-4/5
Główna
J-1/2/K-1
Gołębia
C/D-2
Góra Przemysła
C-1/2
Górna Wilda
F/G-5
Graniczna
E-5
Grobla
D-2
Grochowe Łąki
G-2/3
Grudzieniec
E/F-2
Grunwaldzka
E-3/4
Gwarna
A-2
Inflancka
K-5
Jana Pawła II I-4/5/J-3/4
Jaskółcza
C-2
Jeżycka
E-2
Kaliska
J-4
Kanałowa
E-5
Kantaka
B-2
kard. Wyszyńskiego
I-3
Katowicka
J-4/5
Kazimierza Wielkiego H-4
Klasztorna
D-2
Kochanowskiego
E-2/3
Poznań In Your Pocket
Kopernika
G-4
Koronkarska
J-2
Kościuszki
A/B-1/2/3
Kozia
C/D-2
Kórnicka
I-4/5/I/J-5
Krakowska
G-4
Kramarska
C/D-1
Krasińskiego
E/F-3
Kraszewskiego
E-3
Królowej Jadwigi
G-4/5
Krysiewicza
C-3
ks. Posadzego
I-3
ks. Wujka
F-5
Księcia Józefa
G-2
Ku Cytadeli
H-2
Kurpiowska
F-2
Kurza Noga
C-2
Kwiatowa
G-4
Libelta
A/B-1
Lubrańskiego
I-2/3
Ludgardy
C-2
Łady
E-2
Łaskarza
J-3
Łazienna
H-3/4
Łąkowa
G-4
Łucznicza
I-5
Majakowskiego
J/K-4
Małachowskiego
J-2
Małe Garbary
D-1
Małeckiego
E-5
Małopolska
E-1
Mansfelda
E-2/3
Mariacka
K-1
Masztalarska
C-1
Mazowiecka
E-1
Mączna
E-2
Mickiewicza
E-3
Mielżyńskiego
B-1
Młyńska
B-1
Mokra
D-1
Mostowa
D-2
Murna
C-2
Muśnickiego
D-3
Mylna
E-2
Na Podgórniku
G/H-2
Na Szańcach
H/I-1
Nad Bogdanką
E-2
Nad Wierzbakiem
E-1
Niedziałkowskiego F/G-5
Noskowskiego
F-2/3
Nowowiejskiego
B-1/2
Ogrodowa
C-3
Ostrów Tumski
I-3
Ostrówek
I-3
Owsiana
F/G-1
Paderewskiego
C-2
Panny Marii
I-2/3
Pasaż Apollo
G-4
Piaskowa
H-3
Piastowska
H-5
Piekary
B-3
Pl. Andersa
G-4
Pl. Wolności
B/C-2
Podgórna
C/D-2/3
Podolska
E-1
LISTINGS INDEX
Podwale
Powstańców
Wielkopolskich
Poznańska
Północna
Półwiejska
Prużańska
Przemysłowa
Przepadek
Przystań
Pszenna
Pułaskiego
Ratajczaka
Ratuszowa
Roosevelta
Rybaki
Rynkowa
Serafitek
Sienkiewicza
Sieroca
Składowa
Skośna
Sochaczewska
Sokoła
Solna
Sowia
Spadzista
Stary Rynek
Stawna
Strusia
Strzałkowskiego
Strzałowa
Strzelecka
Szelągowska
Szewska
Szkolna
Szymańskiego
Śląska
Ślusarska
Śródka
św. Czesława
św. Jacka
Rynek graffiti
J-2/3
A-3
E-2
H-2
C-3
K-5
F-5
G-2
I-4
G-1
F-2
B-2/3
C-2
E/F-3
C-3
C-1/2
I-4/5
E-3
C-2
A-3
F-3
F-1
E-1
G-3
J-5
G-5
C/D-2
D-1
E-5
E-2/3
C-3
C-3
I-1
D-1
C-2
C-3
E-1
D-2
I/J-3
F/G-5
I-3
św. Marcin
A/B-2/3
św. Marii Magdaleny D-3
św. Michała
J/K-3
św. Wawrzyńca
E-2
św. Wojciech
G-3
Święcickiego
E-4
Świętojańska
J-3
Świętosławska
D-2
Święty Marcin
F/G-3
Taczaka
A/B-3
Taylora
A-2/3
Topolowa
H/I-3
Warszawska
J-3
Wąska
E-2
Wenecjańska
H-3
Weteranów
I-5
Wielka
D-2
Wieniawskiego
A-1
Wierzbięcice
F-5
Wierzbowa
H-4
Wieżowa
I-3
Winogrady
G-1
Wodna
D-2
Wojska Polskiego
E-1
Wolnica
C-1
Wołyńska
E-1
Woźna
D-2
Wrocławska
C-2
Wroniecka
D-1
Wszystkich Świętych D-3
Wysoka
B/C-3
Za Bramką
D-3
Za Cytadelą
G/H-1
Zachodnia
E-4/5
Zagórze
I-3
Zamkowa
C-1
Zdrojowa
K-3
Zeylanda
E-3
Zielona
D-3
Żniwna
G-1
Żydowska
D-1
Alex Webber
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Academic Pub
51
Adalbertus
74
Agawa
51
Alexander
38
Ali Baba
34, 38
Applied Arts Museum 64
Archdiocese Museum 64
Archeological Museum 64
Arkady
49
Artemis
37
Astra
27
Atelier of Józef Ignacy
Kraszewski
64
Atmosfera
49
AWO
74
Azalia
35
Bacchus Winiarnia
51
Balinga
51
Bamberka
46
Bambus
35
Barcode
51
Batory
32
Bażanciarnia
35
Bee
58
Bee Jay's
38, 52
Behemot
49
Biskupin
72
Blow Up Hall
24, 52
Blue Note Jazz Club
52
Bodega Cafe
52
Bogota
52
Brogans Irish Pub
52
Brovaria
24, 38, 52
Browar Pub
52
Buddha Bar
37, 52
Butting Heads
68
By The Way Hostel
31
Cacao Republika
49
Cactus Factoria
52
Cafe Bordo
49
Café Plotka
52
Cafe Sekret
49
Caffe Ławka
49
Campanile
27
Canappka
34
Cathedral
62
Chimera
49
Chłopskie Jadło
46
Cinnamon
31
Citadel Park
68
City Information Centre 66
Cocorico
49
Cofeel'ya
49
Corcovado
39
Corner Pub
52
Corpus Christi Church 62
Costa Coffee
49
Coxy's
39, 52
poznan.inyourpocket.com
Cuba Libre
59
Cute
59
Cymes
45
Czarna Owca
59
Czekolada
50
Czerwone Sombrero
45
Czerwony Fortepian
52
Da Luigi
42
Dark Restaurant
39
Déja Vu Café
52
Delicja
32, 35
Derby
27
Deserovnia
39, 53
Domina Poznań Residence
24
Dominican Church
62
Dom Vikingów
36
Donatello
42
Dorrian
27
Dracula Pub
75
Dragon
53
Dramat
46
DV Club
59
Dwór w Podstolicach
32
Emforiu
59
Environment Museum 64
Eskulap
53
Estadio Sports Bar &
Restaurant
53
Estella
45
Fashion Cafe
53
F.B.I Poznan
53
Feniks
27
Fever
53
Fidelio
42
Figaro
36
Filigrando Cafe & Lunch 50
Poznań facades
Fontanna Czekolady
54
Fort Colomb
54
Franciscan Church
63
Frolic Goats Hostel
31
Fuego
54
Fusion Restaurant 37, 43
Getting there
70
Gewert
74
Girasole
42
Glob-Tour
66
Gold
30
Gong
50
Green Hotel
32
Gromada
28
Gruszecki
50
Habana
39, 54
Henlex
28
Hipokryzja
54
Historical Museum of
Poznań
64
Holy Trinity Church
76
Hotel 222
28
Hotel Księcia Józefa
28
Hotel Pietrak
75
Hotel System Premium 28
HP Park
24
IBB Andersia Hotel
25
Ibis
28
Ikar
28
Imaret
39
IQ
59
Johnny Rocker
54
June 1956 Poznań Uprising
Museum
65
Kamea
54
Kawka
50
KFC
34
97
Kisielice
54
Klepsydra
54
Klub Charyzma
59
Klub Galeria Shisha
54
Klub Zak
55
Kórnik
70
Kórnik Castle
71
Kresowa
46
Kruszwica
72
Kultowa
55
Kyokai Sushi Bar
44
La Scala
42
Le Bistrot
39
Lech
29, 74
Lech Visitors Centre
68
Le Palais du Jardin
36
Literary Museum of Henryk
Sienkiewicz
65
Lizard King
40, 55
Lobby Bar
55
Lokanta
40
Londoner Pub
55
Madagaskar
40
Malibu Bar
55
Markowa Knajpka
47
Massimiliano Ferre
43
Matii Restaurant - Vodka
Bar - Sushi Bar
44
Mat's
25
McDonald's
34
Medical Vocational School
Boarding House
74
Mercure Poznań
25
Meridian
29
Metropolitan Club
60
Milano Ristorante
43
Mini Hotelik
30
AP
March - June 2009
98
LISTINGS & FEATURES INDEX
Młyńskie Koło
29, 46
Mollini
43
Mood
40, 55
Mosaica
40
Motoring Museum
65
Muchos Patatos
56
Museum of Gniezno
Archdiocese
76
Musical Instruments
Museum
65
Nalewka
36
Naramowice
30
National Museum
65
New Zoo
68
NH
25
Notus City Park Residence
25
Novotel Poznań Centrum26
Novotel Poznań Malta 26
Old Town Hall
61
Old Zoo
68
Olimpia
29
Ossowski
32
Ostrów Lednicki
72
Ostrów Tumski
61
Pałac Wąsowo
32
Panorama
36
Papavero
40
Parish Church of St.
Stanislaus
63
Patio
36
Pekin
35
Pharmaceutical Museum
65
Piano Bar
56
Piano Bar Restaurant &
Cafe
43
Pieprz i Wanilia
40
Pietrak
74
Pireus
37
Piwnica 21
56
Pizza Hut
46
Pizzeria Rozmaitości
43
Play Club
75
Pod Aniołem
47
Pod Dzwonkiem
47
Pod Koziołkami
47
Pod Minogą
56
Pod Pretekstem
50
Pod Złotą Jabłonią
47
Polonez
29
Pomarańcza
50
Pomorski
31
Portofino
41
Post Dali
56
Post-Office Cafe
50
Pożegnanie z Afryką
50
Poznań Army Museum 65
Poznań In Your Pocket
Poznan Bamber Museum
66
Pracownia
37
Proletaryat
56
Pub
75
Pub Cafe
76
Puzon
56
Qube Vodka Bar and Cafe
57
Ratuszova
47
Ratuszowa
75
Red Erik Cafe
50
Reeta's Haveli
38
Residence & Workshop of
Kazimiera Iłłakowiczówna 66
Restauracja Polska
75
Restauracja Zapadnia 41
Restaurant de Rome
41
Rezydencja Solei
29
Rodeo Drive
34
Room 55
41, 57
Rooster
34
Roti
34
Royal
26
Rzymianka
41
Rzymski
30
Sakana Sushi Bar
45
Sami Swoi
57
Sansibar
60
Sarp
57
Shark
57
Sheraton Poznań Hotel 26
Sioux City
34
Sioux Classic
34
Soho
50
Sól i Pieprz
41
SomePlace Else
35, 57
Sonata
41
Spagetheria
34
Sphinx
34, 75
Sport
31
SQ
60
Stacja Cafe
50
St. Adalbert`s Church 63
Stare Miasto
26
St. Francis of Assissi
Church
63
St. John of Jerusalem
Church
63
St. Joseph`s Church
63
St. Martin`s Church
63
Strzelno
72
Sushi 77 Noodle Bar
45
Sushi Sekai
45
Taj India
38
Tapas
60
Tapas Bar
48
Taste Barcelona
48
Tawerna Mykonos
37
Terytorium
60
The Arboretum
71
The Castle
62
The Dubliner
57
The Fire Place Lounge 58
The Gniezno Cathedral 77
The Mexican
45
The Museum of the Origins
of the Polish State
76
The Old Town Square 62
Tivoli
46
Tokyo Underground
60
Tourist Information Centre
66, 77
Trawiński
26
Trzemeszno
72
T&T
30
Uczta Babette
50
U Honzika
58
Umberto
50
U Mnie Czy u Ciebie
42
Valpolicella
44
Villa Magnolia Ristorante
44
Vinoteka la Bodega
51
Vivaldi
27
Wejście Obok
42
Wenecja
72
Weranda
50
Whisky Bar
58
Wielkopolska Ethnographic
Museum
66
Wielkopolska Martyrs
Museum
66
Wielkopolska Military
Museum
67
Wielkopolska Uprising
Museum
67
Wilson Park
67
W Starym Kinie
58
Wylatowo
72
W-Z Wielkopolska Zagroda
48
Zagroda Bamberska 30, 36
Za Kulisami
58
Zapiecek
50
Zielony Smok
35
Złoty Smok
75
Features index
1956 Uprising
Climate
Easter
Essential Poznan
Facts & Figures
Have Your Say
Headless Figures
Hindenburg
International Football
Jewish Poznan
Language Smarts
Lech Poznan
Lech Visitor's Centre
Market Values
Meteors
National Holidays
Poland in Film
Polish Food
Poznan City Card
Poznan Model
Poznan on the Cheap
Poznan Synagogue
Quick Currency Convertor
Quick Eats
Quick Picks
Stary Marych
The Birth of Poland
The Enigma Code
The Great Escape
Trade Fairs
Train Smarts
UFOs
What's Hot & What's Not
Wielkopolska Uprising
17
13
44
61
13
23
55
66
56
63
14
6
68
13
47
15
53
42
12
58
32
61
15
34
10
48
76
67
64
8
84
60
30
16
poznan.inyourpocket.com