March 2009
Copyright © 2009
Newsletter of the H. H. Franklin Club
Cazenovia College, Cazenovia, New York, U. S. A. 13035-7903
Number 123
Page 1 of 8
The H. H. Franklin Club publishes Franklin Service Station solely as a convenience to its Members. No endorsement is made by the Club or the editor, of anything advertised in FSS.
No claim or warranty is made as to the accuracy of an advertisement; no responsibility is assumed for any transactions resulting from the ads.
ADVERTISEMENTS: Please state full car and engine serial numbers (all characters) when selling cars, engines, or crankcases. Type or print your ad clearly, be brief and precise, and
specify the classification: VEHICLES, ENGINES, REPRODUCTION PARTS, PARTS, SERVICES, or MISCELLANEOUS—FOR SALE (with prices) or WANTED. Ads run once
per request/donation. A DONATION is requested, although members’ ads can be free, and suitable nonmembers’ ads may be accepted. Selected company ads (member and
nonmember) are $3 per line. One line contains 50 characters/spaces. Make payment to the H. H. Franklin Club, Inc. Misrepresentation in advertisements may result in a member being
dropped from the Club rolls. The publication of your ad entails an obligation to answer all inquiries. The acceptance of advertisements is at the Editor’s discretion. NO PHONE AD
ORDERS but Editor will answer questions 610/573-8013.
MAIL YOUR AD TO:
Tim Miller, FSS Editor, 3438 Oakhill Road, Emmaus PA 18049-4421 USA
DEADLINES: (for issues dated): MAR 7 (for March); JUN 7 (June); SEP 1 (September—Hershey); NOV 30 (December—Christmas)
Membership in the H. H. Franklin Club is open to anyone interested in air cooled cars & trucks through 1942. Ownership is not required. Dues are $30 per calendar year ($40US for
foreign). Yearly publications include three magazines (Air Cooled News), four newsletters (FSS), annual Trek notice, renewal notice, and when published, a Roster of members,
Register of Franklins, and Technical Index. Please send address changes to Membership Services, 80 Luke Avenue, Bergenfield NJ 07621-3406.
EDITORIAL POLICY:
To publish information that will enable you to make your Franklin run well and safely.
CLUB LIBRARY & PUBLICATIONS
Reprints—INSTRUCTION BOOKS: S10, $26; S11, $28.50; S12,
$24; S130, $7.50; S14, $22.50; S15,, $18; S16/19, $7..50; S17, $9;
S18, $7.50. PARTS CAT: S11, $48; S12, $43.50; S13, $34.50; S14,
$40. ACN 11—20: $67.50. Instruction book, S135-137, $24; & $2
postage. Checks to: The H.H.F.C Library, Lloyd Davis, RFD#1 Box
3899, Rutland VT 05701-9217.
CAR BLUEPRINTS: Order by drawing number from Parts
Catalog, call for others. $5 each for first 3, then $3 ea.; you’ll be
billed. Jeff Hasslen, 13311 95th St. NE, Elk River, MN 55330. Tel.:
763/441-7815
VEHICLES FOR SALE
1923 S-10B Touring (mod. To pu): S/n: 135189-1 Eng.:
E83333. Weathered original, no rear body but nice bed. Low
miles chassis w 1 stuck cylinder. Good tires, wheels. $3,500
Delivery to East possible in June. Bourke Runton, POBox
513, Tombstone AZ 85638. Tel.: 520/325-3412 eves. After
5pm, 520/326-8038 work
(123)
1924 S-10C Landau Coupe: S/n: 148900-8 Eng.: 97058
Custom body by Phillips; one of two known. Needs complete
restoration, partially apart. Engine turns, clear title. $10,500
w/ wire wheels, $8,500 w/ wood wheels. Pictured in ACN17
p. 10 & CAN 76 p. 5. Mac Dufton 327 W.Market St.,
Clearfield PA 16830. Tel.: 814/321-1892
(123)
Several ads this issue but the following are still listed in the
www.franklincar.org website as of March 12, ‘09:
• 1933 S16B 4-dr Sedan Bob, 256/345-5871 AL
• 1926 S11A Sport Touring John MacKiernan 508/746-1988
• 1929 S135 2dr Sedan 760/518-0644 j.riester@sbcglobal.net
• 1927 S-11B 4dr Dale 608/289-5701 dasanderson@jvlnet.com
• 1928 S12A 4dr Paul/Judy 845/628-0799 pj111575@aol.com
• 1930 S147 4dr Ted Urban 406/724-3277 or 406/724-7285
All of these ads in the website have detailed descriptions and photos
and asking prices. Also, included in the website are Parts Wanted,
Franklin Parts, Repro Parts and Accessories, Literature and Services.
Get on a computer or to a library and have a look !
U.S. & foreign. Walter Miller, 6710 Brooklawn Pkwy,
Syracuse NY 13211 Tel: 315/432-8282 Fax: 315/432-8256
www.autolit.com
For Sale: Color catalog for “The New Franklin Airman
Limited” Series 12B, published July 8, 1928. Excellent
conditions, $250 plus shipping. Jack Lanford, 5300 Fox
Ridge Rd., Roanoke VA 24018 Tel.: 540/520-9949
(123)
Complete set of ACN’s: Vol. 1 thru Vol. 155 (Nov ’05).
Vol. 1 is the first early multi-issue reprint but Vols. 2 on are
originals, not reprints. Asking $900 for whole set plus
shipping. (That’s $5.81/issue) Tim Miller 3438 Oak Hill Rd,
Emmaus PA 18049 (610)573-8013 or marmoset@fast.net (123)
HIGH SPEED Gears for S-12 through S-19 (except S17&18) This is the 4th run, over 100 sets sold, cruise at 60
MPH. We will soon place the order for these 3.92-1 ring and
pinion gear sets. If you want to get in on this order, we must
have your commitment by the end of March’09. We have over
40 orders for this run. Contact me for questions and ordering
information. Price will be $968.00, 1/2 deposit at time of
order, app. 6 month delivery. Jeff Hasslen, 763-441-7815
evenings & weekends or email: jhasslen@gmail.com
(123)
PARTS WANTED
Wanted: for 1912 Model G Touring. Front wheel hub and
hub cap, Hand crank, Brass windshield, Top assembly or top
bows, 4 tires in OK condition (32x4 or 33x4.5). Jim Weiss,
232 Barco Rd. St. Augustine FL 32080 Tel.: (904)540-5946
Cell, jamesruthweiss@bellsouth.net
(123)
Wanted: For S-9B: Headlight rims. These are approx 11
1/8" OD. Also, want front bumper, and tire pump.
For
S-10C: For Miro-Tilt headlight-need one of the "doughnut
shaped" reflectors in good condition. Has anyone figured out
how to re-build the magnetic part of these lights? Chad
Windham 3401 NE Riverside Ave. Pendleton, OR 978013431 Tel.: (541)276-4069 hagulp@oregontrail.net
(123)
There is 1 Franklin for sale in Feb.’09 Hemmings:1933 Olympic
Sedan lo mi Orig. $12K CA No Franklins in March ‘09 HMN No
parts ads listed either month.
Wanted: for 1925 S11A. 1 Amp meter, 1 tail light lens, 2
fuse box covers, 1 horn. Garth Nase, 114 E. Cherry Ln.
Souderton PA 18964-1907 Tel.: (215)723-7022
(123)
MISCELLANEOUS
Wanted: for 1927 S11B. 1 Engine cylinder, 3 complete hood
latches, 1 Front hood emblem, 1 Steering wheel. John D.
Scheringer, 343 Krumville Rd. Olivebridge NY 12461 Tel.:
(845)657-2291
(123)
ORIGINAL FRANKLIN LITERATURE: Sales brochures
and manuals for most models. SASE for free list. Please
specify Franklin as I have lists for all cars/trucks/motorcycles,
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Franklin Service Station
PARTS FOR SALE
For ~1912 Vintage Car: 2, 25” BF Goodrich wood spoke
wheels, no hubs, good condition. $300 ea, discount for both.
Jim Weiss, 232 Barco Rd. St. Augustine FL 32080 Tel.:
(904)540-5946 Cell, jamesruthweiss@bellsouth.net
(123)
Sale or Trade: From S11A, Front bumper and half of rear
bumper, 3 head lights, hood. Garth Nase, 114 E. Cherry Ln.
Souderton PA 18964 Tel.: (215)723-7022
(123)
Parts: S12A/12B hand crank $25, S12B Northeast distributor
cap $25, S12B Northeast coil $35, S12B Northeast distributor
rotor $15, S12A/12B starter Bendix spring $20, S12A/12B
sparkplug water shield
$5, Zenith carburator-good
replacement for S12/T2 $250. Jack Lanford, 5300 Fox Ridge
Rd., Roanoke VA 24018
Tel.: 540/520-9949
(123)
Blower fan for side-draft engines. Has been sand blasted
and in excellent condition. $300. Phil Bordeleau, 1811
Louisiana St. Little Rock, AR 72206 Tel.:(501)519-6663
email: pbonegreene@aol.com
(123)
REGIONS & LOCAL GROUPS
Lehigh Valley Franklinites (PA) meet on 3rd Tuesday of
each month near Allentown PA for dinner & drinks. Usually
attracts 10-15 couples. Call Tim Miller at 610/573-8013,
anytime. Can leave a message or: (marmoset@fast.net)
Midwest Region: The Midwest Region covers the states of
IL, IN, MI, OH, WI, MN, KY MO, and IA. Many faithful
members from NY, NJ, TX, AZ, PA, NC and KS meet
with us. You too are invited to join us at our planned 2009
meets. With or without a Franklin, consider joining us.
Spring meet in Quincey IL May 14—17, 2009
Fall Meet in KY in late Sept. Exact location and date to
be determined soon. See later FSS and website !
To host a meet or require information please call Ralph Gack,
President, 13900 Ridgewood Drive, Plymouth, MI 48170-2431,
email: krgack@sbcglobal.net.
Hey HHFC Club Members ! You can now pay your H H
Franklin Club, Inc. dues on-line using a credit card. If
everything works out Club member may be able to pay for
the Trek on line and than anything the club has for sale.
We are working with the dues for now, however things are
looking good. First if you check the page marked “Join
the Franklin Club” you will find you can now use PayPal
or your credit card. Check it out on the Web Page.
WEB PAGE: http://www.franklincar.org for news, more
classifieds, events & tech talk. Have a Franklin event planned
for ’08? Supply info. to WebMaster, Frank Hantak,
37770 So. Silverwood Dr., Tucson AZ 85739-2015
fbhantak@franklincar.org
H. H. Franklin Foundation Franklin Museum: Info:
Tel.: 520/326-8038 franklinmuseum@aol.com 1405 East
Kleindale Rd.,Tuscon AZ 85719
THE FRANKLIN STORE/CLUB PROJECTS
These items are in stock now, for sale by the club:
Item#
Item:
Price:
FCP-1 1930 Ser. 145 outer Tail Light Lens, clear glass.
Special sale price:
$5.00ea.
FCP-2 Red plastic inner lens for use with FCP1
$5.00ea.
FCP-3 1928 on Swingout W.shield Weather Seal $25/7ft+$5 s&h
No. 123 (March 2000)
FCP-3.2 Series 17 Windshield Weather Seal $40/11ft+$5s&h
FCP-4 1928 to series 151 W.shield Hinge Cover-52”
$2.00ea.
FCP-5 S10 to 130 Sp.Plug rubber Escutcheons(set of 6)$65.00/set.
FCP-6 1930-on Side draft motor. Pushrod Set of 12 $150.00/12
These are direct replacement hollow push rods with hardened solid ends.
FCP-7 12” Twilite Head Light Lens
out of stock
FCP-8 Cowl vent seal (cut to your length)
$0.25/inch
FCP-9 Hood Door Pulls for Side draft hoods 1931-1934
Bronze castings that require Chrome Plating. $10.00ea.
FCP-10 1929-1932 Brake Drums for cars with wire wheels or demountable wood wheel. Will require riveting to your hubs and turned
to finish size. Include rivets and detailed instructions. Note: For
safety reasons, to be sold only in sets of 2.
Out of stock
Make all checks out to: H.H.Franklin Club. Send Orders to:
Bob Harrison, 59 Reuben Brown Lane, Exeter RI 02822
Tel.: 401/667-0214 hm, 401/269-9122 cell
Hfranklin32@verizoncox.net
Franklin Club Projects Contact for information or to order:
Bob Harrison, (at above locations)
Prices listed do not include shipping.
AIRCOOLED EVENTS
Bakersfield CA Mini-Meet, Friday, April 17, 2009:
3pm – 11pm, during the HCCA Bakersfield Swap Meet (April
16-18) Any Franklin Folks are invited. Dinner, drinks, and
Franklin talk at the Webb’s house. Sort of a Pot Luck so bring
a bag of chips, dips, salad, your favorite drink, or whatever—
We will provide other items as needed. Can also see a number
of Franklins nearby. We have had 40-70 people in previous
years. RSVP at 661-833-1440 or at lwebb72741@aol.com or
see Lee Webb or Marlene Zimmerman at the meet concerning
what to bring.
Visit www.hcca.org/events for info on
Bakersfield HCCA meet.
WesTrek ’09 in Forrest Grove OR. Near Portland, June 21-25,
2009. Click on link at franklincar web site. Registration and
reservations are due June 1. If you need a mailing or info, contact:
Cliff or Julie Stranberg, 19122 SW Tile Flat Rd., Beaverton OR
97007
56th Franklin Trek, 2009: August 1—8, 2009, Cazenovia
College Cazenovia, NY. Detailed mailing in early summer ’09
Check Website: http://www.franklincar.org
Hershey 2009: October 6,7,8,9 & 10 — HHFC spaces RNE 812. (Red North Field) Stop & say hello to friends on “Franklin
row” in the upper North Red Field.
57th Franklin Trek, 2010: July 31—August 7, 2010
WesTrek ’10: Folsom CA near Sacramento, June 13-18, 2010
LOOKS LIKE WE’LL BE BREAKING GROUND IN
APRIL. Thanks for your great ideas. Send more.
Report from the Hickory Corners corner #2 by Arthur Einstein
The Club has made big progress on the new building at the
Gilmore since our report in the last Service Station.
In February the committee hired Cornerstone Construction
of Portage MI. to build the structure. The brick façade will be
a replica of the Ralph Hamlin dealership building pictured on
page 223 of the Vintage Franklin book and on FSS page 7
below. (This book by Mark Chaplin & Sinclair Powell is the
best $60 a Franklin enthusiast can spend).
An authentic dealership building will be a totally different
‘look’ for the Gilmore campus and will stand out among all
the red barns. The contractor expects to break ground
No. 123 (March 2009)
Franklin Service Station
some time in April, and barring complications the building
should be ready for cars by mid-August, six months ahead of
the original schedule.
The building will incorporate ‘green’ technology that’s also
good for the cars. Heat-pumps and radiant heating cost
relatively little to operate and will help preserve the cars. (I
went into one of their unheated exhibit buildings recently.
The dampness and condensation made the value of radiant
heating very obvious). Heat pumps will pay for themselves
over time in energy savings. We also will use energy efficient
lighting—another money saver that will show off the cars.
To all you readers who responded to our appeal for ideas in
the last edition of The Service Station – thank you. All your
ideas have been turned over to Jeff Bernstein, the exhibit
specialist we’ve hired to help design the interior. Jeff does
extensive work at The Gilmore and was amazed when we
showed him club member’s input. He rarely gets this kind of
information before starting a project.
While the design of the building is all but finished, the
design of interior and the exhibit is just getting off the ground.
So it’s not too late to send us your ideas, thoughts,
suggestions and recommendations for the look and feel of our
display.
You’ll find pictures of the cars and artifacts at the club
website. Please give this some thought and your ideas to
committee chairman Bob Harrison - His email address is
hfranklin32@verizon.net and his snail mail address is 59
Reuben Brown Lane Exeter RI 02822-3124. Bob and the
committee look forward to hearing from you.
From North Carolina - Another donation to the Collection
at Hickory Corners
Through the good offices of President Bob Amon, the club
was given a 1928 sedan in January. It appears in pictures to
be in quite nice shape. It’s clear we will need rules to govern
donations of cars, literature, parts and Franklin memorabilia.
A sub-committee led by Marv Gage is drafting a document
that will define a gift policy and describe terms and
conditions to guide gift giving.
COMMENTS ON HYDRAULIC BRAKES FOR
FRANKLINS
(The following article was written by Bill Deibel of Seattle. His
thoughts are response to a question a member had about lined
hydraulic brake shoes on his car. That question was answered by Paul
Page 3 of 8
in FSS 122 in December, 2008)
I wish to comment on some aspect of Paul’s response to our
member’s request for clarification on proper placement of long
and short brake linings on the Series 12 car.
All hydraulic brake equipped Franklins used Wagner Lockheed
brakes of the internal expanding, leading/trailing shoe type.
Using Wagner shoe terminology, the primary (leading) shoe, as
it is pushed against the drum with the car moving forward, bears
against its anchor pin by the friction, thereby adding to the
stopping torque developed by the wheel cylinder force on the
lining. This is called “self energization” or “servo-action.”
Conversely, the friction and torque created by the secondary
(trailing) shoe counteracts or pushes against the wheel cylinder
on that lining. The wheel cylinders used on the Series 12 and
others (Wagner Part FC665) front and rear, have the same piston
diameter in both directions. As a result, the primary or leading
shoes will develop up to four times as much torque (with the
servo-action) as the secondary or trailing shoes. If the lining
composition and length were the same on both primary and
secondary shoes, the primaries would wear out about four times
as fast. In the final design, the braking effects and wear depend
on the coefficient of friction of the lining material (the
composition)—the higher the friction, the greater the self
energization and difference in braking torque and wear between
the primary and secondary shoes. Using a longer lining on the
primary shoe is one means of reducing these differences (mainly
trying to equalize wear rates). The longer linings should always
be put on the primary (leading) shoes. However, Paul is
probably correct in assuming that the longer linings were put on
the rear axle to produce a little more torque on the rear of the
car. He also noted that back then, there was a lingering fear
about the safety of brakes on the front wheels. Many engineers
at the time were worried that too much braking at the front
wheels would unfavorably affect vehicle control due to effects
on steering or brakes pulling while turning. (A more legitimate
concern with mechanical brakes because the mechanical
actuation is often affected by road bumps and/or changes in
steering angle.) Franklin was likely worried about a change in
caster from too much front brake torque could initiate wheel
wobble (shimmy)—a common Franklin bug-a-boo. Late Series
13 and subsequent series continued to use this basic brake
design (wheel cylinders), but they switched to using the same
length linings on all eight shoes (both axles) with the change
from cast to stamped shoes. I don’t agree with Paul that greater
lining area, itself, will increase
self energization weight
transfer to the front axle during braking. Harder braking causes
greater transfer. The front brakes on today’s cars do most of the
braking. This is because the brakes have been designed to do
this (e.g., Bigger drums or discs are one of many ways—I won’t
list them all here). The front and rear brakes on the Franklin,
being the same size with the same wheel cylinders front and rear
axle and brake output will do the same work, front ant rear. Self
energization and torque are also affected by where the lining
begins contacting the shoe. Thus, I strongly disagree with the
statement that “because of weight transfer to the front axle
during braking, the front brakes do most of the stopping.”
It is true that with the same lining material and dimensions,
they will do about the same work front and rear. This will
lengthen the stopping distance on dry pavement since he rear
wheels will lock before the potential braking at the front can be
Page 4 of 8
Franklin Service Station
used (assuming the lining has enough friction to lock the rear
wheels on dry pavement in the first place). I have a Series 16
and have installed larger wheel cylinders (as have others) on
the front so that my front brakes do more work that the rears.
As a result, on very hard braking I now develop some
shimmy, probably due to the front spring/axle windup. I’ve
largely reduced this by changing my caster with shims—but I
still get it in a panic stop.
I point this out because I’m not sure that Franklin’s full
elliptic spring suspension is suited to a more modern brake
balance where the fronts do more work. Prior to anti-lock
brake systems (ABS), engineers were always limited in
capturing the full potential of front wheel braking because of
the compromise that had to be made between best stopping
distance on clean dry pavement and vehicle control on
slippery surfaces.
This compromise has largely been
eliminated today because ABS prevents lockup as the weight
transfers off the rear axle in hard braking and prevents front
wheel lockup on wet or icy pavement. ABS is a marvelous
development in automotive safety.
Editor’s comments. Bill Deibel’s discussion is interesting
and important. It points out the interactions among brake
design, steering geometry and mechanical condition. The
Franklin hydraulic Brakes are an early American design and
Bill’s article (and Paul’s original comments) allude to the
contemporary thinking in the late ‘20’s.
Many Franklin owners have used and benefited from fitting
the larger front wheel cylinders(Wagner F1430 1-3/8” Dia,
see FSS, Vol 75, Mar’97 Old Std p/n F695). I’ve installed
them on three Franklins with good results (two Airmen and
an Olympic). The braking system was more controllable and
better balanced with less pedal pressure. In a panic stop on
one of the Airmen, I didn’t experience what Bill did (start of
a shimmy). However he noticed and understood the problem
and installed shims between the front springs and axle to
increase the caster (rotate axle backward). This may have
cause slightly heavier steering but the car was more
controllable. Over the years who knows what wear and tear
occurs on our cars. The important thing is if you experience
such symptoms (whether or not from installing larger
cylinders, get it looked at; DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT !
Brakes are very important and our membership has learned
a lot to improve them. Bill’s right, we can’t make them work
like your modern car but with careful design improvement
and diligence in their upkeep, they can be predictable and
safe.
Thanks Bill Deibel !
More WEB Q&A from Tom & Paul
QUESTION: 1928 SERIES 12A STARTER: My '28
Franklin (12A) had been at rest for about a month when I
decided to take it on a warm-up run to the local Stop & Shop.
When starting, it turned over for about 5 seconds, gave a
cough, but didn't catch. Normally she starts on the first or
second try and I didn't notice any strange sound or whatever.
However, when I attempted the second try, the electric fuel
No. 123 (March 2009)
pump stopped and nothing was heard from the starter. I tried it
again with the headlights turned on and they almost
completely dimmed out .
My first thought was that the starter was jammed into the
flywheel. But, I hand cranked the engine but other than a
compression check [seemed very good], the engine turned
freely. No jam.
This left an electrical short as the problem. Checking the
resistance from the starter post [wire removed] to ground
indicated about 0 ohms.
I guess that the next step is to remove the starter. This
appears to be "easy" but are there any surprises (other than its
weighing about 500 lbs!)? Should I then disassemble the
starter and look or measure for something out of place? Any
and all suggestions would be appreciated.
ANSWER: My first question is always, how old is that
battery ? Four or five years for a small 6 volt is about all that
can reasonably be expected. Six to eight years for the large
Interstate U4-XHD. An older battery, especially one that's
been doing a lot of sitting uncharged for long spells, can loose
a good percentage of charge in just a month. Then, if the
battery is not too old, I'd start at checking the battery and it's
connections before pulling the starter motor out. It's much
easier to get at the battery, etc ... and it's a good excuse for
cleaning the battery terminals anyway. Plus, it's the real
'starting' point of the starting circuit.
If there is road dust on the battery case (dirt salts), that
combined with the increase in air moisture this time of year
lets voltage bleed-off over the battery case. I've seen big 6 volt
batteries that were fully charged be stone dead 4-5 weeks
later because the case was dusty and it was getting into damp
weather. Once the battery case was rinsed with warm water,
the same batteries would hold a good charge for months.
The battery also has more in common with a dead fuel
pump, and dim head lights, if the starter motor and it's cable
aren't shorting to ground (we'll get to that later).
Clean and charge the battery, check the starter switch to
starter motor cable to see if it's touching and shorting out
anywhere is what I recommend before pulling the starter
motor.
A fully charged 6 volt battery should read at least 6.4 volts,
but don't rely on just a volt meter - check the fluid in each cell
for specific gravity–even if it's just with one of the
inexpensive 'floating ball' type battery testers. You could have
a weak cell and still read just over 6 volts, but not have
enough 'guts' to turn the starter motor and keep lights on, or
fuel pump working.
Checking the switch terminal to ground ohms doesn't tell the
whole story.
Two ways to check....
One is, disconnect the starter switch lead at the battery.
Make sure the transmission is in neutral and parking brake
on. Clamp a jumper cable on the battery terminal. Then
briefly touch the other end of that jumper cable to the starter
terminal. If the motor spins over there is either a break, or a
short to ground, in the cables, or starter switch.
No. 123 (March 2009)
Franklin Service Station
Second method, to narrow things down more. Set the volt
meter on at least the 6 volt scale. Put the meter's leads from
the hot battery post to the starter motor terminal, then have
someone hit the starter motor. Ideally it should only read
about 0.2 -0.4 volt
If the meter reads higher than that there is excessive
resistance to current flow in the starting circuit (not likely if
head lights are going dim).
Now do the same thing touching the meter leads to just each
'section' of the starting circuit in turn, ending with the starter
motor terminal to ground, as someone taps the starter switch
each time. Each section should show some slight increase in
voltage as the starter switch is hit - even if it's just that you
notice the needle twitch slightly.
The section of the circuit that reads 0 volts, or shows least
needle movement should be where the short to ground is, if
that's what the problem is. Paul
Rather than a short - it is more common that this is an open
circuit. The high load to the starter cannot get through a poor
connection and the lights dim, pump quits, etc. When you
release the starter, the current dribbles through and the lights
& pump work. It gets worse quickly as an 'iffy' connection
arcs each time it is used and each arc oxidizes the connection
a bit more. Eventually, nothing can get through.
If it were a dead short, which it could be, things heat up and
smoke develops very quickly.
Try removing each battery terminal and cleaning the
terminal and post. Check also the ground connection to the
transmission and the connection at the starter switch. Then try
again and hold for a couple seconds only. Put you hand on
the starter to see if it is HOT. If so you have found the source.
It is not hard to remove - 3 bolts and you can wiggle it out.
I am betting it is a poor connection and that you will solve it
by cleaning terminals and connections. tom
FOR CORK FLOATS IN GAS TANKS: Cork floats can
get "gas logged" and not float as high -throwing off the tank
level. The good news is it's less likely to run out of gas. The
lower float will make you think the gas level is lower than the
tank actually is.
But, if not coated, the floats can start to deteriorate. When
that happens bits of cork can come loose and can eventually
plug the pick-up tube.
I give them a thorough cleaning in lacquer thinner - then let
dry over night. Next, coat by poring gas tank sealer (slosh)
over it - let dry over night. Re-coat a second time to get any
pin holes that can appear as it soaks in and dries. Again, let
dry overnight before re-installing in tank. Paul
QUESTION: MIRRO-TILT HEADLIGHTS / FENDERS:
I have been looking for some information on the Mirro-Tilt
headlights, but have found nothing.
My other concern today, (because I have no S-9 or S-10
parts books) is the differences in front fenders. Mine with
both series has no "hood shelf" - the part of the fender that
lays on top of the frame, rather they go down the outside of
the frame. If you look at e-bay, #380103005809,the fender
there goes on the top of the frame- thus having a "shelf. Can
you tell me which series this fender would be for.
ANSWER: I do not have a Series 10 parts book, so I cannot
identify it. The Series 9 had hood sills - wood on the early
Page 5 of 8
cars, steel on the later ones. This has a built-in hood shelf, so
I assume it is a Series 10, but cannot tell the year.
The Mirro-Tilt headlamps were used on the 10-C, but I have
no experience with 10A or 10B, and no parts book. I don't
recall ever reading anything in ACN about these lights. I had
a set - they were fun to use!
Someone who knows a lot more will respond. What exactly
are you looking for? Tom
(S-10A & B used the same Mirro-Tilt mechanism, rims and
shells.
The lenses while very similar and physically
interchangeable, were slightly different in the embossed
lettering—ed.)
Thanks for the reply. I was wondering if anyone had a
replacement "magnet" or whatever makes these actually "tilt"
worked out. I bought a pair at Hershey last fall, now need to
make them work! On the fender, (series 10-C) my car was
wrecked early on, and I have some front fenders with it, but
they have no shelf, and may be incorrect? So was interested in
seeing if this would be correct.
The lights had an electro magnet inside that tilted the
reflector via a button on the floor under the carpet. I would
think there would be some parts laying around. I don't have
any, but perhaps someone else does. I'll keep my ears open.
Good luck –Tom
A few years ago, when I was with the Franklin Museum, I did
some research on Franklin's tilting headlights. First, please
understand I'm getting old and I don't remember everything
but here goes; I think I found Franklin installed the tilting
headlight on the first 3 or 4 months run of the series 10-C (I
have seen one still on a Franklin that was stored away for
many, many years) but after the "Magnet" (Franklin called it
a solenoid) kept burning out, they requested all the dealers to
remove them from the cars. The tilt was meant to be used only
for a max of 1 minute no longer, however people would hold
the floor button down for a very long time burning the
solenoid out.
Hope that helps on why there are few out there to see or
operate. Frank
(Ed. Comments(again): My S-10B Mirro-Tilt lights work at
both high and lo beams. But, the solenoid never gets much
use here in PA. We are not allowed to drive antiques at night.)
QUESTION: GASKETS for VACUUM TANK: After a
full day of trying to stab the engine back in the '28 , I walked
away, to get a nights rest, then try again Sunday afternoon.
After ten minutes the next day, it went it great! Happens every
time. Sometimes you just have to get a nights rest and try the
next day. Also, I ordered some gaskets from Jeff Hasslen, but
he didn't have the vacuum tank gaskets and seals. Where can I
get them? Thanks
ANSWER: You can cut them yourself out of cork gasket
material, or else you can order them from: Restoration Supply
Company, 15182-B Highland Valley Rd., Escondido, CA
92025, Order Desk (800) 306-7008, Other Inquiries (760)
741-4014
Fax (760) 739-8843
or
info@restorationstuff.com
QUESTION:
1928/34
REAR
AXLE
INNER
DIFFERENTIAL SEAL: Since this is no longer on the
Timken website, do you have an old book that shows the
dimensions and type of this one?
Page 6 of 8
Franklin Service Station
No. 123 (March 2009)
lines.
I
got
the
nickel/copper
line
from
England.
ANSWER: A few choices: CR# 534952 is a good fit. The
Where do I get double-flaring tools - any parts house?? Paul
seal OD is a couple thousandths small, so it might need a bit
Fitz
sent me the one piece of larger line that I need, and that
of help to hold it in place - such as a dab of Loctite. The bore
appears
to be just copper. He also sent me parts numbers for
it goes into is pretty roughly machined, so there is some
new
fittings
after that one broke.
tolerance here. It might fit just fine.
Even
after
I lifted the floor boards and saw the brake line
CR# 13582 is about 0.012" too big. Usually I can fit a
petcocks
I
drove
the car practically 15 miles. Fortunately it's a
+0.010 seal by polishing down the OD on a Scotchbrite wheel
very
slow
car.
on a bench grinder. 0.012" might take a bit of work. But it
Answer: Any industrial supply house should have a double
could be used.
flaring tool.
CR# 13985 This seal will fit nicely inside the original felt
For modern cars ....... Most tubing flair kits sold in auto
seal retainer. If you have your old felt seals, you can pull out
parts
stores will say 'double flair' on them. Modern car steel
the felt ring, press the two hales apart and this seal will fit
brake
tubing has been flared double by first flaring inward
inside the outer retainer, which you then press back into the
using
a
special forming die included in the kit. Then that flare
axle housing.
is
pressed
outward to form the 45 degree 'cone' shape. When
As another alternative - if you have the old felt retainers,
done
correctly,
it looks like the outer most part of the flare is
and if they came out in decent condition, you can shim behind
"rolled"
in
on
itself.
That gives greater strength and more
the felt ring and put it back in for new life. It will never seal as
'crush"
for
better
sealing
the higher pressure of modern brake
good as a lip seal, but it is original.
systems.
We are restoring a rear axle just now, so I will find out what
But for Franklins..... NEVER, NEVER use double flares
works best on ours We’ll go for the 534952 first. tom
when
making new brake lines using the original Wagner
Thought you and other club members might be interested in
Lockheed
brake line male threaded fittings. The double flare
my locating these bearings. I will forward e-mails from
will
not
let
even new flare nuts thread on far enough to have
Timken and suppliers where I located the bearings. It appears
enough
threads
engaged to be safe. A properly made single
there are few available and the club may be interested in
flare
(which
double
flare kits can also make) which has been
buying them up as Timken no longer makes the 415T. They
annealed
is
sufficient
to hold with these early low pressure
are very expensive however, the best price I got was through
systems.
Paul
Fitz
LocateBallBearings.com @ $108.25 for the 412A and
$131.90 for the 415T.
I hope to have the car back this month. When I do I will
assemble what has been done and where I located parts and
provide the information and perhaps some pictures.
QUESTION: MANY QUESTIONS ABOUT A 1928
SERIES 12B: What is the firing order on my '28 - 12B.
Figured they were all the same, but didn’t find it.
Answer: 1-4-2-6-3-5 Same for all six-cylinder franklins.
Unfortunately the 415T is obsolete and we do not make
another cone with a tapered bore for this series. The 421A
comes back as a cone, not a cup. Is it a 412A cup? If so we do
still make the 412A and a 421. The 421 does not have a
tapered bore though, so I do not believe this will help you.
You may check with bearing supply houses and see if they
have old stock of this piece? I'm sorry we could not be of
much help. (Respnse of a supplier)
I put the generator back on the engine. Any rule of thumb on
tension on the timing chain with the generator? Don’t want it
too tight, I presume, for the sake of the bearings, but never
had an engine with an adjustable chain.
Answer: The chain must have slack or it will whine and be
hard on bearings, as you suggest. If you remove the plug that
is in front of the generator, you can see the chain. Bend a coat
hanger into a small hook, reach down through this hole and
hook the chain. You should be able to pull the wire up 3/8 1/2 ". Too slack and the chain may slap.
I saw some discussion on the oil filter system. Did I
understand right that the original tank system is no longer
around? I thought about cutting the filter top off, cleaning it
out and finding a sock type filter and re-soldering it together.
Answer: There are a few options here. If you are crafty, you
can cut an old filter apart and retro fit a new filter inside. The
Franklin system is a by-pass system and only a small amount
of oil flows through the filter. You can also buy a cartridge
filter from Roberts Motor Parts, Inc., 17 Prospect Street, West
Newbury, MA 01985
phone 978/363-5407 or 800/231-3180
web site
www.robertsmotorparts.com
Ask for the 1035 filter replacement. This is easy to plumb in,
but the lines run in each end, rather than both in the top as
OEM. Painted black with a Purolator decal, they look good.
Or you can buy a new OEM-looking canister that has a
spin-on element inside. These are beautiful and I have
installed many of them. They are expensive. Contact is Burr
Ripley in New York Ph:(607) 844-8473
(Questioner emailed another Supplier:) I have a need for two
bearings. The Franklin Club has Timken numbers as follows:
Cup 412A Cone 415T These are tapered roller outer axel
bearings with the following measurements: I.D. = 1.483
tapering to 1.405 (approximate, believed to be 25
degrees) O.D. = 3.250 412A thickness = 0.930 415T thickness
= 1.155 All dimensions are in inches. Do you have these or an
equivalent ?
(Supplier responds)We can supply the following:
2 pcs 412A Timken cup @ $120.00 each + shipping cost from
Ohio.
2 pcs 415T Timken cones @ $149.25 each + shipping from
Ohio, same place.
I can give you a shipping cost if you provide your zip code.
Let us know.
Thanks and Regards,
Jamie Kershaw Talon Bearing Ph: 215-703-0605 Fx: 215703-0607 www.talonbearing.com
QUESTION: What is double-flaring brake lines? Is it
going through the process twice? I've never made new brake
No. 123 (March 2009)
Franklin Service Station
Page 7 of 8
camshaft
rebuilders
around
the
country.
When taking the clutch, pressure plate and all, I noticed the
Here is what we know:
pressure plate had a lot of small cracks, I suppose from heat,
- SL rated motor oil ,still be found on shelves, contains high
and wondered if you do anything about those, I didn’t know
enough ZDDP levels for the protection we are concerned with.
if the cracks could be carefully welded, then turned, or if a
- SM rated oils are reformulated oils w/ the low ZDDP levels.
guy has to come up with another pressure plate somewhere.
- If you can buy SL oil, you have nothing to worry about. Look
Answer: These small cracks are caused by heat & stress
for the API Service Rating circle on the bottle label. If it says
within the plate casting. Sometimes they get severe and
SL/SM, then it is SM oil and has reduced ZDDP.
result in a slight warping of the surface adjacent to the
- Some feel that the SM oils may lead to early breakdown and
cracks. In minor cases they do not alter the surface at all. If
failure of high load surfaces on a NEW engine, such as solid
they are minor, you can re use the plate without worry. If
camshaft lifters. (Franklin uses solid lifters)
severe, it is best to replace the plate. Welding is not advised,
- Most seem to agree that it is the early wearing-in period that
unless by a very experienced welder who can weld the plate
is critical. Once lifters are worn-in, low zinc levels are OK.
while hot and then slowly cool over several hours to
- This would seem to indicate that using an SL rated oil, or an
minimize stresses. IF the plate is badly grooved, it can be
SM rated oil with an additive is a good idea on new engines for
turned but keep such to a minimum. The plates were not
the 1st 1,000 miles.
designed to be machined. A thinner plate will be more
- Some feel that the low valve spring pressures in a Franklin
susceptible to the stress cracking. Just leave it alone and
are below the rate at which trouble might develop and that we
run with it unless it is really bad, in which case, replace it.
should not worry about it.
- Some feel that there are other high-load areas in early engines
I don’t see a fuel pump anywhere. I have a large canister on
(oil pump drive gear off camshaft) that will surely suffer
the firewall. I was going to see if it comes apart.
without ZDDP.
Answer: The can is a Stewart Warner Vacuum Tank. It
- Personally, we use either SL rated oil or SM oil with a zinc
fills with fuel from the tank via engine vacuum and then
break-in additive from Crane Cams in our new engines. I have
drops by gravity to the carb. They must be cleaned out,
used SM synthetic in my 1931 for several thousand miles. We
most likely rusty inside. Mostly a cleaning and resealing
are monitoring oil pump drive gear wear and have seen no
with new gaskets will put them in good shape. Top cover is
problems yet from any oil.
fragile pot metal, so use caution disassembling it.
An aircraft engine builder told me that aircraft oil has no Zinc
as it fouls plugs. They rely on case-hardened lifters against a
QUESTION: ZINC REMOVED FROM OIL: I've been
case-hardened cam. Franklins also run hard lifters against a
hearing a lot in the old car hobby on the subject of zinc (aka:
hard cam during the Classic Era. For the little extra cost, we
zddp) in motor oil. It seems the oil companies have removed
continue to run SL oil or break-in additive on NEW engines
it as it harms the exhaust components in modern cars. It is a
only. Tom
lubricant. What I hear is that the lack of this lubricant in the
(Ed. Comment: FSS, Vol 116, June ’07 also had an article
motor oil can harm some engines, especially newly rebuilt
based on an interview of a Shell-Pennzoil Research Engineer on
engines, and particularly engines with certain types of cams.
the ZDDP issue. That article agrees closely with what Tom
ANSWER: There is lots of heated discussion on this. I
reports above.)
have read all I could find and talked to engine and
The FACHC building will be a replica of the Ralph Hamlin Los Angeles dealership of the 1920's. Cars will enter and leave the
building through the service department entrance at the right. See it in color on the franklincar.org website.
FIRST-CLASS MAIL
U.S. POSTAGE
PAID
Bethlehem, PA
Permit No. 100
The H. H. Franklin Club, Inc.
c/o Cazenovia College
Cazenovia NY 13035-7903
MARCH
2009
Page 8 of 8
Franklin Service Station
No. 123 (March 2009)
The Gilmore Committee is looking for your VOTE !
They are very friendly and helpful.
Hopefully, you will find an enclosed post card ballot so you
The system also works for hackers who stumble on or
can vote for your favorite Logo for the Gillmore Collection.
want to get onto the franklincar.org website. Then your ads
All you have to do is to circle your favorite and put a stamp on
have potential exposure beyond the mailing.
it and drop it in the mail. We apologize to our Canadian and
If you are looking to “cheap out”, the ad rates stay the
International friends. You can vote, but it will probably cost
same, you just get better coverage.
you more than 27¢ and we don’t know foreign postal
After a long Winter . . .
regulations. But we do want to hear from you and we hope
I went to a local flea market 20 miles down the road in
you will come to the USA in the future and visit the Gilmore.
Hamburg PA. As a result, I no longer have withdrawal shakes
High Speed Gears — get your order in soon !
from not being near old auto parts and books for the last 6
Jeff Hasslen has just ordered about 40 gear sets. You can
months. But that won’t last long. As my mother used to say,
still get in on an “adjust-order” by March 31. After that, no
“You’ll live.”
more orders!! See the ad and contact Jeff if you want to
squeeze in at the last minute.
Sometimes I wonder if I will live—shake, shake. So to
FSS ads and Website ads !
Frank Hantak, the web-master, and I are gradually
meshing our ads together. Don’t worry, the FSS is not going
cyber. This is “syncro-meshing.” Only about 40% of our
members use or have access to a computer.
So for better coverage, Frank is running an image of the
FSS ads on the web site and I run a summary of the Web site
ads. (Also included are a brief list of recent Hemmings
Franklin ads.)
This “meshing” enables computer non-users to know
what is on the web. If you see something of interest, get to a
friend with a computer or to your local library. Most libraries
have some decent public PC computers for internet searches.
assuage my habit, I’m going to the west coast to visit my
daughter, my brother and . . .
BAKERSFIELD !!
I hope to see many of you at Bakersfield in April (see Lee
Webb’s ad about the HCCA Bakersfield flea market and
Franklin party, page 2 under AIRCOOLED EVENTS).
Tim Miller