Soft Medium Hard Boulder circuits of Rychleby Trails Bouldering is a sport that gains more and more devotees every year. Just like tourists travel to mountains to go for a walk in summer or to ski in winter, so do bouldering enthusiasts take a long way to realize their potential. Rychleby boulders are already quite popular among climbers from the whole Moravia and Poland. And now the boulder circuits were created to link them with Rychleby Bike Trails to be accessible for wider outdoor community. So far the boulder circuits have been established only in French Fontainbleau. Rychleby boulders become the first area in Central Europe with well mapped and elaborated information structure. A close link to the bike trails made the Boulder Circuits a unique world wide sports arena. Six natural circuits were divided into three level categories to suit both the general public and experts. Due to a high amount of boulder problems of single circuit can visitors, after they have done one, continue to try to realize another harder circuit. All the circuits start at Rychleby Trails Information Centre in Černá Voda. The length of individual circuits varies from 14 to 20 km and one should be able to complete one circuit within a single day, two days at maximum. It is possible to rent some equipment both for biking and bouldering (crash pads, climbing shoes, chalk) at the Rychleby Trails Information Centre. Štěpán Stráník, Deprese (f Ondřej Nevělík) Plans of areas related to the circuits, complex map and list of boulders (also marked in plans) are to be found in this guide. A detailed guide to the individual circuits and each related rock can be downloaded on rychlebske-okruhy.cz Do not forget to write your name into virtual summit book after completing circuit and pick up your diploma at Rychleby Trails Information Centre. Please note that the authors of this guide do not take any responsibility for damage to health or property caused by usage of this guide. http://rychlebske-okruhy.cz Financial support was given by the Olomoucký kraj. 2 3 Soft Nebel | The easiest circuit is aimed primarily at a wide range of the climbing community. It requires only the basic skills and enables climbers to try out their technique on the simplest bouldering problems. This circuit is ideally suited for beginners and is also suitable for kids supervised by more experienced climbers who take care of the relevant safety requirements. The circuit offers many opportunities to experience the thrill of this popular adrenalin activity and try out bouldering as a sport. The bouldering grades in this circuit ranges from 2 to 4B Fb. Routes | 14 routes | Wiessner (oblast): Chodníčková, Lesní kožich, Pobíhačka | Superflow: Krovka, Pozastavení, Hranka, Spárka | Bukový vrch: Včil, Vosička, Trubec | Sedm skal: Jeřabina, Rajbas, Slalom, Sjezd Medium Wiessner | The upper-elementary circuit is meant for less experienced climbers. Basic technique and physical literacy are required within this circuit, one can try out simple and mainly dynamic bouldering oves. Which may teach you the correct footwork techniques as a stepping stone for your climbing development. The circuit facilitates the preparation required for more demanding strength bouldering circuits, the bouldering grades range from 4 to 5A Fb. Routes | 19 routes | Suchý vrch: Kotník, Rajbasář, Druid | Žulový vrch – U Jedlí: David Cofferfield, Prázdná sláma | Žulový vrch – Brankopy: Úhybka, Budižkničemu | West End: Habaďůra soft, Bezruč | Central Park: Rajból | Zef Side: Ubíhačka, Lechtačka | East Coast: Modla, Rozverný kant jávských jinochů | Superflow: Ústup | Bukový vrch: Včelař | Sedm skal: Spára, Pískařina, Cross Ripper | Pre-intermediate circuit which requires a good grasp of footwork techniques to solve more demanding dynamic problems but also the strength of arms in some sit start bouldering problems. The bouldering grades in this circuit ranges from 5A to 5C Fb. Routes | 22 routes | Suchý vrch: Jelen v říji, Pělikáně, Hot spot, Úvěr | Žulový vrch – U Jedlí: Rámcovka, Hranař | Žulový vrch – Brankopy: Direkta, Flustačka soft | Wiessner: Šulinek, Vratká | West End: Vadí nevadí soft, Souchotina | Central Park: Runway | Zef Side: Pan Gekon, Leichtbáček | East Coast: Hare Rama, Konverz | Superflow: Sápač | Bukový vrch: Trubkač | Sedm skal: Dvojspára, Perioda, Měsíčky Schindler | The selected boulders are among the best classics within their difficulty level in the area. A moderate amount of strength is required here and besides the footwork techniques a good grasp of overhang climbing is required. The bouldering grades in this circuit range from 5C to 6A Fb. Routes | 29 routes | Suchý vrch: Futurista, Bora bora, Hawai, Bankrot | Zelená hora: Masakrowanie lewaka, Buddy, Kamerton | Žulový vrch – Brankopy: Panelák, Hadimrška, Rowenta, Obelisk | Žulový vrch – U Jedlí: Špekovina, Pětersburg, Vypočítavá | Wiessner: Kosmik, Břichomluvec | West End: Habaďůra, Vadí nevadí | Central Park: Mnoho povzdechů pro nic | Zef Side: Rádodajky marná snaha, Eskapáda | East Coast: Gertúdovic stará známost, Nemožná láska | Superflow: Pakt, Vrásčitá | Bukový vrch: Bláto na hřišti | Sedm skal: Aguirre, Meskalin, Černá šipka Priessnitz | Advanced finger strength in combination with good technique and arm strength are essential for successful achievements on these boulders. The circuit is aimed at advanced climbers with a wealth of climbing experience. On the other hand this gives one the possibility to enjoy the best upper-intermediate boulders in the Rychleby Mountains. The bouldering grades in this circuit ranges from 6A to 6B+ Fb. Routes | 29 routes | Suchý vrch: Odrzut direkt, Mr. Proper, Waikiki, Blízká setkání třetího druhu | Zelená hora: Janusz ufam tebia, Fallout, Kapadaster | Žulový vrch – Brankopy: Svlékání kůží, Nicota, Chironíko, Surfing | Žulový vrch – U Jedlí: Ležér, Levitační koutek, Jak vyjebat s Valentýnou | Wiessner: Maratón | West End: První vráska, Sexuální revoluce, Pařízek | Central Park: Milášek mé pasie, Prolomit vlny | Zef Side: Dualita | East Coast: Palič Atomkraft, Intimní osvětlení | Superflow: Chlemtač, Valpuržina noc | Bukový vrch: Medovina | Sedm skal: Špageta, Efedrin, Kotníkovka Hard Altvater | This advanced circuit aimed at the most experienced climbers. Successful sends on this circuit in single day displays a high skill level of climbing technique and great physical strength. Suitable weather conditions are essential for a selection of the boulders. The bouldering grades in this circuit ranges from 6B+ to 7A Fb. Routes | 21 routes | Suchý vrch: Pahoe-hoe | Zelená hora: Prostořekost, Maginotova linie | Žulový vrch – Brankopy: Čuňák, Zmije, Kwak, Grizzly, Onanie, Chrám spasitele Ježíše Krista | Žulový vrch – U Jedlí: Petrohradská klasika, Pravoboček | Wiessner: Kapky deště | West End: No. 9, Die Welle Extension | East Coast: Hare Krishna, Tufas too furios | Superflow: Woland, Král Duchů | Bukový vrch: Plástev páteční plachetnice | Sedm skal: Pomyšlení, Pivní pes 4 5 1 km Suchý vrch (Kóta 436) Description | The area consists of several towers and rocks made of coarse-grained granite with height up to 8 m. Chalk usage is prohibited due to the uniqueness of the area. Older ascents were made by members of HO Jeseník in 1970. Access | The area is situated on the south hillside of Suchý vrch, west of quarry Nový lom by Černá Voda. 2 10 11 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 3 4 9 3 1 2 3 4 4. 1,2,3 Coordinates | N 50.29828 E 17.125311 2. 1. 1 6 3. 1 7. 6. 5. 1 2 3 4 5 6 4 5 2 1 12. 1 7 689 2 34 5 11 10 13 12 7 8 9 10,11 12 8. 13,20a 14 15,16 17 18 19 20 10. 9. 2 3 4 4 3 2 1 5 6 13. 1 14. 5 4 500 m 3 17. 1 6 7 8 1 2 1 2 3 4 1 5 7 6 2 16. 3 5 4 9 15. 2 3 4 1 1 7 11. 2 3 Kóta 436 4 Zelená hora Description | The area consists of a distinctive 8 m gneiss wall and a few rocks underneath. The material changes to granite blocks towards the direction of Žulový vrch. A climbers guide to Zelená hora was made by Sebastian Wójcik. 7. 6. 5. 8. 10. 9. 11. 12. 13. Access | Roughly 5 minutes walk by traverse road from Žulový vrch. Coordinates | N 50.278733 E 17.116018 2. 3. 27. 4. 26. 14. 16. 25. 15. 17. 24. 28. 22. 20. 21. 29. 30. 31. 8 9 Žulový vrch — Brankopy Description | Boulder area composed of large number of rocks and small towers made of fine- or middle-grained granite, height up to 7 m. Technical-strength climbing on smooth edges and slabs. The starts of climbs marked with arrow. 1a 1 2 Access | From the crossroad Žulový vrch past (left side) the old quarry to a small saddle. From there ca. 50 m to the West. Coordinates | N 50.27853 E 17.124178 3 Paseka 1. 2. 3 3 1 7 2,2a 4 3. 2 1 5 6 4 3 1 2 3 2 8 1 4. 1 6. 7 5 69 10 2 1 10. 1 7. 5. 3 4 2 1 8. 3 2 9. 7 6 5 1 43 8 2 9 11. 1 Martin Stráník, Bad Pig, Zelená hora (f Štěpán Uhlíř) 10. 1 1 12. 4 1 5 11. 3 2 1 4a 34 6 2 1 5 13. 8b 6 1 4 5 7 8a 2 3 15. 14. 9 6 7 10 Lom 11 Žulový vrch — U Jedlí Description | Boulder area composed of large number of rocks and small towers made of fine- or middle-grained granite, height up to 7 m. Technical-strength climbing on smooth edges and slabs and on crimps in distinctive overhangs. The starts of climbs marked with an arrow. The area was discovered for bouldering and first ascents were made by David Kolouch with fellows in 2012. Access | From the crossroad Žulový vrch past (right side) the old quarry. Behind quarry to the left across a glade to the forest. Coordinates | N 50.279861 E 17.131073 12. 1 1 2 3 14. 1 1 2 6. 4 2 15. 20. 22. 1 1 1 2 21. 5. 1 2 3 1 2 3 12 4. 1. 1 4,5 6 3 2. 19. 3. 2 7. 1 9. 3 6 5 paseka 1 2 16. 1 3 4 1 1 23. 1 2a 2 2 3 4 5 25. 1 1 1 29. 28. 30. 31. 2 1 27. 4 9 8 7 11. 3 2 1 13. 10,11 7 8. 2 3 2 3 1 26. 2 3 24. 2 17. 18. Sokolí vrch — Wiessner Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical and strength climbing on smooth slabs and round edges. Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím vrchem ca. 50 m in the direction of Supíkovice down the descending road to the Wiessner Bike Trail. Further approx. fifty meters down by the Wiessner Bike Trail to the rocks. Coordinates | N 50.275286 E 17.154771 3. 4. 5. 6. 8. 7. 1. 9. 10. 2. 14. 15. 16. 19. 12. 11. 17. 13. 18. 20. 21. 12 13 Sokolí vrch — West End 2b Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical and strength climbing on smooth slabs and 1. round edges. 18 Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím 1 vrchem ca. 300 m in 6. the direction of Supíkovice down the ascending road to the rocks18 on the right side of the road. 2, 2a 2b 6. Coordinates | N 50.27342 E 17.157115 1. 18 12a 6 12 9 8 7 2. 6. 1. 3 10 1 11 3. 5 4. 1 3 4 4 posed posed bouldry cesta cesta bouldry bouldry 4. 10 2. 11 12a 6 12 9 8 7 3.10 11 3. 4. 13 14 15 5. 13 17 16 14 15 Lukáš Abt, Špekovina, U Jedlí (f Patrik Pompe) 9 8 7 2.5 12a 6 12 posed cesta 2, 2a 3 4 5 2, 2a 2b 13 5. 16 17 14 15 16 5. 17 Sokolí vrch — Central Park Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical and strength climbing on smooth slabs and round edges. Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím vrchem ca. 500 m in the direction of Supíkovice down the ascending road to the turn-off of the Wales Bike Trail. From there ca. 50 m down to the rocks on the left side of the road. 6 7 8 5 4 3 1 2. 2 1. 9 1 1 2 3. Coordinates | N 50.275104 E 17.164588 West End S cca 100 m Zef Side East Coas 14 15 Patrik Pompe, Mnoho povzdechů pro nic, Central Park (f Lukáš Abt) Sokolí vrch — Zef Side Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical and strength climbing on smooth slabs and round edges. Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím vrchem ca. 500 m in the direction of Supíkovice down the ascending road to the turnoff of Wales Bike Trail. From there ca. 400 m up to the rocks in the forest on the left side of the road. Coordinates | N 50.273296 E 17.165039 2 1 6 4. 2,3 4 1 9. 6 1 32 7. 8. 1 1 32 5. 1 1 6. 7 2 1 2 3 12. 11. 5 DO NIA 10. 5 1. 2 54 4 3 2 21 2 4 32 1 1 SN OW 4 2. 3. 1 1 13. 14. 15. 1. BASKERVILLE 17. 16. Sokolí vrch — East Coast Description | The area consists of coarsegrained granite rocks and provides technical and strength climbing on smooth slabs and round and often overhang edges. Access | From the crossroad Pod Sokolím vrchem ca. 500 m in the direction of Supíkovice down the ascending road to the turnoff of the Wales Bike Trail. From there ca. 200 m down to the rocks in the forest on the right side of the road. Coordinates | N 50.274429 E 17.167982 9 8 7 6 5 32 1. 3,4 3 2 1 2. 3. 3 4 5a, b 1 2 1 1 4. 1 2 1 9. 21 2 7. 6. 1 5. 10. 3 4 8. 3 1 2,2a 13. 3 1a 11. 1 1 12. 2 SNOWDONIA 16 17 Superflow Description | The area consists of two massive rocks and several smaller rocks. Climbing primarily on friction on blunt edges and smooth slabs. Coordinates | N 50.290762 E 17.202477 21 Access | From Nová Červená Voda ca. 1 km in the direction of Supíkovice down the forest asphalt road to the crossroad. From there go on in the opposite direction along Superflow Bike Trail (Section 4) ca. 1 km to the 12 11 rocks. 10 1. 2 1 4 5 9 8 20 6. 19 15 4. 14 13 3. 18 17 16 2. 22 5. 6 7 8 3 Bukový vrch Description | The area consists of two small towers and several coarse-grained granite rocks, weatherworn on some spots. Climbing primarily on smooth walls and slabs. Access | From Nová Červená Voda ca. 700 m in the direction of Černá Voda (in the direction of Sedm skal) to a meadow. Rocks are located on a small ridge on the right side of the meadow. Coordinates | N 50.299332 E 17.172266 13 14 12 11 2. 15 2 1 7 6 8 9 4 3 16a 16 1. 5 10 17 Sedm skal Description | Boulder area composed of three small towers and several rock made of solid coarse-grained granite, height up to 8 m. There is a summit book on top of the Main tower (Hlavní věžička). This area lived through a bouldering renaissance at the turn of the millenium. Mostly members of LK Javaanes continued in search for new routes eight years later. Access | From Nová Červená Voda ca. 1 km in the direction of Černá Voda. To the left on the forest crossroad and then 200 m to rocks. Coordinates | N 50.294667 E 17.166557 5 1 9. 1 4 9 4 3 6 7 1 2 8 56 7 2. 2 1 3 8 1 6, 7 5 5. 7 10. 2 2 3 6 3 4 4 5 3 6 7 6. 2 8 2 3. 10 9 1 5 3 5 8. 5 12 4 11 10 9 4 3 7. 1 1 1 2 4. 4 3 2 1 1. 2 9 6 3 4 5 7 8 18 19 Ondřej Nevělík, Svlékání kůží, Brankopy (f Štěpán Uhlíř) 2015