HOME
ENERGY
&
WATER
EVALUATION GUIDE
Ways to Save Energy, Water and Your Money
Congratulations on making the decision to save energy, water and your money by using a JEA Home Energy and
Water Evaluation Kit. We have many additional ways listed below to help you save. If you have any questions or need
more information, please call us at 904-665-6000 or visit us at jea.com.
My JEA Utility Tracker: This is our newest and coolest tool to save energy, water and money. Create an online
account at jea.com and log in. Click on the big blue button that says: “Track My Usage, Lower My Bill.” You are
now in My JEA Utility Tracker—a whole new world of energy and water efficiency with information about how you
use energy and water and suggestions on how to lower your monthly utility bill that are tailored to your home and
lifestyle.
The first thing you’ll want to do is create a home profile. The more information you input the more accurate the
tracker will be for you. You can compare your utility usage to similar types of homes and set alerts based on how
much you have spent to date or how much energy and water you have used so far in the month. This tool can help
you stay within your budget and become more knowledgeable about how you can control your usage.
JEA Home Energy Evaluation: To sign up for a free walk-through inspection call 665-6000. A JEA auditor will inspect
your home and make energy-saving recommendations. Do you have enough insulation in your attic? Are your
windows and doors properly sealed? Scheduling varies based on demand. Spring and fall are best for shorter wait
times.
JEA LawnSmart Evaluation: Is the controller on your pop-up irrigation system programmed correctly? Our
LawnSmart auditors will evaluate your pop-up system and make recommendations. And they’ll be happy to program
your controller. Call 1-866-664-8644 to make your free appointment. Scheduling varies based on demand.
ShopSmart with JEA: This program offers you rebates for energy-saving purchases for your home. Learn about the
latest rebate offers at jea.com/shopsmart. And if you own a business, you can get commercial rebates at
jea.com/investsmart.
JEA Investment Curve: This easy-to-read chart is a nice road map for making energy and water improvements and
upgrades to your home. It can help you decide whether it makes more sense to add solar panels or to add extra
insulation in your attic. Look for it on pages 21 and 22.
JEA Light Bulb Finder App: Want the right energy efficient lighting to fit your home? Download our free light bulb
finder app to your smartphone. www.lightbulbfinder.net
JEA Savings Coach: Our energy experts show you how to save energy, water and money on TV. Each 30 minute
episode examines a different topic like replacing your HVAC system or insulating your attic. Our guarantee: watch
just one episode of JEA Savings Coach and you’ll have a much better idea how to see energy and water savings at
home. jea.com/savingscoach.
Q&A With JEA: Every Saturday JEA’s Gerri Boyce takes to the airwaves to answer your questions about JEA. Tune in at
1p.m. on Newstalk WOKV on 104.5 FM. Have a question for Gerri during the show? Give her a call at 340-0690.
How To in Two: Does your toilet run even when no one’s flushed it? Wondering how to fix that leak yourself? Watch
“How To in Two,” our two-minute videos with host Brian Pippin. He’ll lead you through the steps to fix a leaky toilet or
a host of other things. To see them, go to our video library. Log on to jea.com and click on the little icon at the
bottom of the page that says “You Tube” or go to youtube.com/NewsfromJEA.
NewsFromJEA: : “Like” us on Facebook at NewsFromJEA. Follow us on Twitter at #NewsFromJEA. Check out our
entire video library at: youtube.com/NewsFromJEA.
1
Introduction
The JEA Home Energy and Water Evaluation Kit and guide have been created to provide JEA customers
with a simple and economical way to evaluate their home energy and water use and learn ways that
they can save resources and money. The guide is not intended to be a replacement for professional
services or advice. If at any time during the evaluation process you feel uncomfortable performing a
task, stop and do not perform it. Your safety and welfare are our number one concern.
When you are finished with this kit, please go to jea.com/backpack and take our survey. Your feedback
is critical to help us refine and improve this program.
This guide was written by: David Reed, Conservation and Efficiency Specialist JEA; with the help of Wally
Conway and Tonya Stokes of HomePro Inspections.
David Reed, JEA Conservation and Energy Specialist is with JEA’s Conservation Programs. David holds a
Bachelors of Science in Electrical Engineering and a Masters of Business Administration from the
University of North Florida. He has sixteen years of combined engineering and building experience.
He is a certified Florida Class 1 energy rater, a Certified Energy Manager with the Association of Energy
Engineers, is certified with the Residential Energy Services Network and the Building Performance
Institute. He also holds a number of other green certifications with the US Green Building Council and
the Florida Green Building Coalition.
Wally Conway is a graduate of the U.S. Naval Academy, retired Navy Pilot, licensed contractor, and ASHI
certified home inspector who is President of HomePro Inspections here in Jacksonville. Wally is a
certified Florida Class 1 energy rater, is certified with the Residential Energy Services Network and is a
qualified instructor for the Building Performance Institute. Wally has performed over 5,000 home and
building inspections as well numerous energy audits and infrared evaluations. He is a co-host for the
Home and Garden show on WOKV and when not speaking in front of a live audience, Wally writes
routinely and authored the book “Secrets of the Happy Home Inspector”.
2
Your Safety is Our #1 Concern
In order for this process to be as safe as possible, please read this manual before you conduct your audit. To
conduct your energy audit, you will want to wear appropriate clothing and safety equipment as well as make sure
you are physically up to inspection tasks. Be sure to wear coveralls, gloves, dust mask, and eye protection when
necessary. Ladders and step stools should be secured before using them; get help when needed. Crawl spaces may
contain a variety of contaminants, water, animal droppings, and even live critters. Do not enter your crawlspace if it
contains sewage. When moving about your attic, always step on the wood beams (ceiling joists) and not between
them. Stepping between joists can disrupt electrical wiring and/or damage ceilings—or injure you if you break
through the ceiling.
Items of particular concern:
䡲 Asbestos—can be found around pipes, air ducts, old heating equipment, and in vermiculite insulation. It may
look like a light gray or white fibrous material. Asbestos is dangerous, but particularly so when disturbed and the
particles become air-borne. Do not touch or vibrate anything you suspect contains asbestos. If you suspect
asbestos, do not continue with the audit or any suggestion in this manual.
䡲 Fiberglass—use goggles, a dust mask, gloves and long sleeves to protect lungs and skin from irritating
particles.
䡲 Wiring—Turn off electricity at the breaker before probing for insulation or checking in the vicinity of any
wiring. Consult an electrician if you see bare wires or connections not contained within covered boxes.
䡲 Mold—Excessive moisture in the home can lead to mold growth. consult the EPA pamphlet “A Guide to Mold and
Moisture in Your Home,” which you can find at epa.gov.
JEA is a community-owned, not-for-profit utility.
JEA is a not-for-profit municipal electric, water and sewer utility that has served Jacksonville residents for more than
100 years. JEA’s electric system currently serves more than 417,000 electric customers in Jacksonville and parts of
three adjacent counties. JEA's water system serves more than 305,000 water customers and 230,000 sewer
customers in Northeast Florida.
Why is saving energy and water important to JEA?
JEA promotes conservation for three reasons: it reduces our need to build more facilities. It saves you money on your
utility bills. And it reduces everyone’s impact on the environment.
You can improve your efficiency and comfort while lowering your JEA bill.
It is possible to save money on utility costs, have a more comfortable and healthier home, and decrease your
impact on the environment —with just a few changes.
With the help of this manual and the items in the backpack, you’ll gain insight into how well your home currently
operates so you can make informed decisions about the best energy efficiency changes and upgrades for your
home. Even small changes will have a direct impact on lowering your monthly energy bill, and that’s money in your
pocket. This manual will also help you better understand how the systems in your home are designed to function
together, and how proper maintenance can influence not only efficiency but longevity. We’ll even show you how to
make sense of your JEA utility bill so you can get a firmer handle on how your behavior influences the amount of
that bill.
3
Table of Contents
Ways to Save Energy,Water and Your Money.....................1
Introduction ..................................................................2
Your Safety is Our #1 Concern ........................................3
The JEA Do-It-Yourself Energy Audit ................................5
Should You Hire a Professional Auditor?......................5
Getting Started........................................................6
Preparing for Your Energy Audit ..................................6
Where Does Your Energy Come From?.............................7
Steps 1 and 2: Understanding Home Energy Use..............8
Where Does the Energy Go .......................................9
Your Home’s Energy Usage ........................................9
Unusually High Bills................................................10
Worksheet Action Step 1 .........................................10
Worksheet Action Step 2.........................................10
Steps Two, Three and Four.............................................25
Worksheet Action Step 2 .........................................26
Determine Water Wasted.........................................26
Worksheet Action Step 3 .........................................26
Worksheet Action Step 4.........................................26
High Efficiency Water Fixtures ......................................26
Step Five .....................................................................26
Worksheet Action Step 5.........................................26
Determine Water Wasted ........................................26
Worksheet Action Step 3 .........................................26
Shorter Showers ..........................................................27
Step Six.......................................................................26
Worksheet Action Step 6.........................................27
Water Efficient Toilets and Appliances............................27
Step 3: Energy for Heating and Cooling .........................10
Understanding the Building Envelope ......................11
Air Leaks .......................................................11
Insulation ......................................................12
Worksheet Action Step 3..................................12
Step Seven...................................................................27
Worksheet Action Step 7 .........................................27
Water Efficient Appliances.......................................27
Step 4: Air Conditioning and Heating Equipment ............13
Worksheet Action Step 4.........................................13
Ductwork ..............................................................14
Watering Restrictions Northeast Florida........................28
Step 5: Moisture Control .............................................14
Ventilation.............................................................13
Worksheet Action Step 5.........................................15
Step 6: Energy for Base Loads.......................................15
Water Heaters .......................................................15
Lighting .................................................................15
Appliances ............................................................16
Other Household Equipment ...................................16
Worksheet Action Step 6 ........................................17
Developing Your Strategy .............................................18
Behavioral Changes that Save a Lot Immediately.......19
Home Energy and Water Efficiency Resource Investment
Curve ...................................................................21
Home Energy and Water Efficiency Resource Investment
Curve Planner .......................................................22
Section 2: Water Audit..................................................23
Where Does Your Water Come From and Where Does
It Go?...................................................................23
Understanding Your Water & Sewer Bill .........................23
Step 1 .........................................................................23
Service Availability Charge—A Base Rate...................23
Consumption Charge on Your JEA Water & Sewer Bill...24
Water and Sewer Rates...........................................24
Residential Irrigation Charges..................................25
Should I Install an Irrigation Meter?.........................25
Worksheet Action Step 1.........................................25
Determine If You have Any Water Leaks..........................25
Saving Water Outside Your Home...................................28
Your Irrigation System..................................................28
Steps Eight, Nine and Ten..............................................28
Worksheet Action Step 8 .........................................28
Worksheet Action Step 9.........................................29
Micro-Irrigation Systems.........................................29
Underground Irrigation Leaks ..................................29
Rain Sensor Shut-Off Devices ..................................29
Worksheet Action Step 10 .......................................29
JEA Lawn Smart Program.........................................29
Native or Florida Friendly Plants ..............................29
Swimming Pool and Spas..............................................30
Step Eleven..................................................................30
Worksheet Action Step 11 .......................................30
Develop a Water Strategy..............................................31
Take the Pledge............................................................31
Appendix A: How to Read Your JEA Bill ..........................32
Appendix B: Utility Tracker ............................................37
Appendix C: Building Envelope Inspection Sheet ............41
Appendix D: HVAC Inspection Sheet ..............................42
Appendix E: Appliances and Lighting .............................43
4
The JEA Do-It-Yourself Energy Audit
In this section you’ll learn how to conduct what’s referred to as an “energy audit,” a diligent walk-through of your
home with an eye toward finding wasted energy. Once you finish the basic inspection, we’ll provide information to
help you develop a master plan and prioritize a timeline for improvements. Finally, we’ll suggest ways to increase
your home’s energy performance and comfort by listing what changes will give you the biggest and fastest
paybacks. We’ll also let you know when a job is probably too big to be a do-it-yourself project.
As you go through this JEA Do-It-Yourself Energy and Water Audit, remember to take a whole-house approach. In
other words, view your home as an energy system with interdependent parts. For instance, your cooling system is
not just a single piece of equipment —it’s a whole system that starts at the condenser (the outside unit) and
delivers cool air throughout your home using a network of ducts. Even
a top-of-the-line, energy-efficient system will waste a lot of energy if the ducts, walls, attic, windows, and doors are
not properly sealed and insulated. Taking a whole-house approach will ensure that your audit
is thorough.
Should You Hire a Professional Auditor?
Ultimately, this manual is not meant to be a substitute for a professional energy audit or for professionally
installed efficiency upgrades. But there are many tasks that even a novice homeowner can easily accomplish, and
this manual will focus on those activities.
A professional energy audit comes with a fee, but gives you the immense benefit of a building expert’s experience
and judgment. The biggest benefit of hiring a professional energy auditor is they will have specialized testing
equipment for finding air leakage as well as infrared cameras, which allow the auditor to detect energy losses
quickly. Here are the most common home performance services available:
䡲 Thermal Imaging—Measures temperatures differences and then creates a visual image of those
differences. The images can usually reveal where walls, ceilings or floors are inadequately insulated or
where windows and doors aren't well sealed.
䡲 Blower Door Test—Measures the overall air leakage of the entire home by depressurizing the home with a
large fan and then measuring the airflow into the home. Also used to detect the actual location of leaks
(especially when used in conjunction with thermal imaging).
䡲 Duct Blaster Test—Measures the total leakage of the duct system in cubic feet per minute and is used to
calculate the percent of conditioned air lost via duct leaks.
䡲 Duct Flow Test—Measures airflow from each register using a flow hood. Also used to conduct a “balance
test” to determine if the right amount of air is flowing to each room for comfort and efficiency.
䡲 Duct Pressure Pan Test—Locates leaking ducts using a blower door to depressurize the entire home and
the duct system. Also used to locate air leaks from outlets, switches and ceiling can
lights.
5
Getting Started
Congratulations on taking this opportunity to “get to know” your home and appliances more intimately. Remember,
you can’t manage what you don’t measure. This guide will allow you to get a sense of what your household energy
usage is, where your problem areas are, and what steps you can take to reduce your JEA bill and be more comfortable in your home.
Preparing for Your Energy Audit
䡲
䡲
䡲
䡲
䡲
Read through this entire guide first to understand the audit process and any safety and health concerns
Collect your JEA utility bills for the past year (or view online—see step 1 on page 8.)
Plan to spend a couple of hours to conduct your inspection
Assemble the equipment from your JEA backpack:
1. Ruler—to determine
insulation depths
4. Hygro-Thermometer —
5. IR Thermometer—to measure
2. Tape measure
to measure and track
temperature of water and air
3. Kill-A-Watt meter—to
the
humidity
and
air
measure energy
temperature
consumption of
individual equipment
Assemble tools and appropriate clothing:
o Pen or pencil, evaluation worksheet and this guide
o Dust mask, eye protection, coveralls and gloves
o Calculator to calculate the size of attic and crawl space vents
o Screwdriver to remove electrical outlet and switch plate covers
o Plastic knitting needle, wooden chopstick or wood skewer to probe for insulation
o Incense stick or candle to detect air leaks
o Flashlight
o Ladder
䡲 Fill in your energy evaluation worksheet as you go.
䡲 Use the Consumer Reports book Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs as a reference.
Jacksonville area families spend thousands each year on home energy bills. Sadly, a large portion of that energy is
wasted. The good news is that by going through this audit process from JEA, you’ll find there is plenty you can do
to save energy and money in your home.
6
Where Does Your Energy Come From?
JEA provides electricity to most of Duval County, parts of northern St. Johns County and small portions of Orange
Park. JEA generates its own electricity at a number of different electric generation plants around Jacksonville. JEA’s
plants have the ability to burn coal, petroleum coke (a byproduct of oil refinement), oil, diesel fuel and natural
gas. JEA will adjust the fuel that it uses depending on the costs associated with those fuels so that generating
costs are kept as low as possible.
In addition, JEA is purchasing rights to electricity from nuclear generation facilities in Georgia so that it can add
nuclear to its fuel mix. JEA also has small generation plants at various landfills burning landfill gas (methane) and
has a 15 megawatt solar facility in Baldwin that’s the second largest in Florida (December 2010) and many other
smaller solar installations around Jacksonville that help provide power to the electric grid.
Once the electricity is generated, JEA “steps up” the voltage and puts the energy onto its transmission system
which can carry the electricity long distances. The transmission lines go out to many distribution substations
around Jacksonville that “step down” the voltage for use in that area. Distribution lines then run from the substations out to the community. Near your home is a distribution line with another transformer that serves your home.
This transformer steps down the voltage one last time so that 120 and 240 volt electricity can be used in the
home for all your needs. This system is commonly referred to as “the grid”. When you turn something on, energy
flows from the grid to your home and you are charged for that energy based on a rate that pays for the system that
provided it to you.
The more energy your home and the community uses, the more fuel JEA must burn to supply that energy. In fiscal
year 2011, JEA supplied nearly five and a half million megawatt hours of energy to its residential customers. Using
energy efficiently helps not only your pocketbook, but also our community and the environment.
Northside Generating Station
Jacksonville Solar Faciity
7
Greenland Energy Center
Understanding Home Energy Use
Steps 1 and 2
Did you groan the last time you opened your electric bill? Sometimes our energy use gets away from us and we
have no idea how much electricity we’ve used until the bill comes due. Making sense of how your home uses
energy is vital to getting a handle on how much you spend each month on your utility bill and is the first step in
our evaluation process.
If there’s only one thing you take away from this manual, it’s that there’s a fundamental law of nature that we all
must live by, “Energy (money) is neither created nor destroyed, it is only altered in form.” This means that the
energy you use must come from somewhere and it must cost something. JEA generates energy by burning fuel and
then transports that energy to you. They determine the cost of that generation and transport and figure the RATE
or unit cost of energy over time. All residential customers are charged a rate which is measured in kilowatt-hours
(kwh), and billed in dollars. Understanding your rate and your consumption is key to learning where your money is
going and how to reduce that consumption while remaining comfortable in your home.
Everything in your home that uses electricity requires a certain amount of power, measured in watts. Your electric
bill is based on the number of kilowatt-hours (1000 watt-hours) that were used each month.
1 kilowatt hour = 1000 watts of electricity used for 1 hour
You can determine how much energy anything in your home uses and how much it is costing you. Here’s how:
1. Multiply the power an electric appliance uses by the amount of time it runs.
2. Now multiply the kwh by the cost per kwh, and you’ll see how much you spent leaving that light on all month.
3. The cost per kwh can be determined by dividing the total electric charges by the number of kwh consumed.
From the example below, we can see that $117.56 divided by 893 kwh equals 13.1 cents per kwh. For this
example, this is the RATE for electricity. Be sure to calculate your rate which includes all applicable taxes
and fees.
For detailed information about how to read your JEA bill, see Appendix A in the back of this booklet.
4. The higher the power consumption (watts) of an item and/or the longer the run time of that item, the more it
will cost.
5. For example: A lamp with a 60 watt light bulb left on for 120 hours per month (4 hours per day) has used 7200
watt-hours. Then divide by 1000 to get kwh. Multiply that by the current kwh charge. You’ll find that bulb will
cost you 90 cents to operate for the month. That same bulb left on for 10 hours a day will cost $2.23.
60 watts x 120 hours = 7200 watt-hours / 1000 =
7.2 kwh x 12.4 cents per kwh = 90 cents
60 watts x 300 hours = 18,000 watt-hours / 1000 =
18 kwh x 12.4 cents per kwh = $2.23
8
Where Does the Energy Go?
As you can see in the pie chart, most energy use goes to heating or cooling the home. Water heating is
usually next followed by appliances and lighting. Finally, home electronics and other large equipment
such as pool pumps and heaters, spas, well pumps, and compressors have an impact. Depending on
the size and run time of electronics and other equipment, they can add up to a significant part of
monthly energy use.
Energy Consumption for a Typical Single Family Home
Typical Single-Family Home Energy Use
Other
10%
Heating & Cooling
40%
Electronics
6%
Lighting
10%
Clothes Washer
& Dryer
10%
Refrigerator
7%
Water Heater
17%
Residential Energy
Consumption
Survey, 2005 Survey,
via www.energystar.gov
Source:Source:
Residential
Energy
Consumption
2005 via energystar.gov
Above chart based on average price of electricity at $0.09 per kilowatt hour.
Other *represents an array of household products, including stoves, ovens,
microwaves, and small appliances like coffee makers and dehumidifiers.
Your Home’s Energy Usage
On a monthly basis, your home’s energy use can vary quite a bit. You can see your monthly usage either
online or by comparing your electric bills. You’ll see it go down in the spring/fall seasons and up in the
summer/winter seasons. Typically, this is due to the energy used for heating and cooling as a direct
result of changing weather conditions. The lowest months reveal your BASE LOAD, the energy used all
the time regardless of the weather conditions. Base load includes water heating, refrigeration, lighting,
entertainment, washing and drying. Depending on your consumption habits, these systems use pretty
much the same energy all the time. The difference between the base load and the total consumption is
the HEATING AND COOLING (HVAC) LOAD (see usage graph below).
9
Unusually High Bills
Some months, your JEA bill may suddenly be higher than normal. Often, these high bills are due to extreme
weather conditions or unusual occupancy levels or activity in your home. Extreme heat, cold, and humidity
seriously impact your heating and cooling costs, even if you haven’t touched your thermostat! Due to the weather,
your AC or heating unit may run longer to achieve those normally efficient settings of 68 degrees in the winter and
78 degrees in the summer. When you hear forecasts for extreme humidity and/or temperatures, prepare by
adjusting your thermostat setting accordingly. A few degrees could normalize your electric usage while your indoor
comfort level remains relatively the same.
Now that you understand this a bit better, let’s start the audit by looking at how your home performs
Worksheet Action Step 1: Determining your household consumption and approximate Base and
HVAC load. Pull out 12 months of utility bills or go to www.jea.com and sign into your online account. Follow
the Utility Tracker instructions in Appendix B to find your consumption history. If you don’t have an account,
we recommend you set one up. It provides lot of useful information and tools. If you don’t have your bills or a
JEA online account, call 665-6000 and ask a customer care consultant for the last 12 months of
consumption. Remember, kwh consumption, not dollar amounts!!! Put your monthly consumption into
column 2 of the worksheet. Then, follow the directions on the worksheet to calculate your Base and HVAC
load.
Now that you know how much energy you used last year and what your Base and HVAC loads are, let’s see how
much that is costing you and what you can learn from it.
Worksheet Action Step 2: Determining your energy costs and where your money is going.
On page 6 you learned how to calculate the rate you pay for electricity. Apply that rate to the
consumption calculations to determine how much you pay in a year for electricity. You can also calculate
how much you are paying to heat and cool your home which can be great information when determining
return on investments for upgrades and how much your base load is costing. Finally, you can calculate
what percentage of your total energy consumption is going to heating and cooling.
Energy for Heating and Cooling
Step 3
Remember the pie chart showing the energy consumption for a typical single family home? It shows that heating
and cooling is about forty percent of the annual energy consumption of the home. This means that heating and
cooling needs to be the place you start since this is where the bulk of your energy goes. Then, start dissecting your
Base load and find out where you’re spending your money there.
So, how much did you spend last year to heat and cool your home? What percentage of your total energy
consumption was it? Let’s look at where that energy is going and ways to create some efficiencies.
Running your heating, ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) system is the cause of your energy consumption.
However, it’s not just the equipment that is the culprit. Your entire home is a system and how well your home works
and operates will determine how much your system needs to run. HVAC equipment moves energy into and out of
your home. Jacksonville is hot and humid which makes it a cooling dominated climate. So, for most of the year,
you are moving heat out of your home. The more heat and humidity that comes into your home, the more the HVAC
system needs to run and the more you have to pay. Of course in winter, you want to keep heat in and the cold out.
This means looking at your building envelope and determining how efficient it is and where you can improve it so that
you have as little air and heat movement across it.
10
Understanding the Building Envelope
Heat moves by three forces:
䡲 Convection: Movement of heat through the movement of air.
䡲 Conduction: Movement of heat through materials.
䡲 Radiation: Movement of heat through space by energy waves (i.e. solar, fire, etc)
Air Leaks
We often think of insulation as the primary means to create an energy-efficient building enclosure. However, the
potential energy savings from reducing air leakage in a home may range from 5% to 30% per year, and the home is
generally much more comfortable afterward.This is the heat that moves in and out of your home through convection.
Windows and doors are obvious places where air leakage can occur. But even small air leaks matter! Going room by
room through your home, check for holes or cracks around your walls, ceilings, floors, light and plumbing fixtures,
switches, and electrical outlets that can leak air into or out of your home.Also check air supply and return registers,
ventilation exhaust fans, fireplaces (around and inside), attic access hatches, and pet doors. Finally, see if you can rattle
your windows and doors (movement means possible air leaks).Air leakage can be responsible for up to 1/3 of the
heating and cooling cost, so it’s a very good investment to tighten up your home.
A real culprit can be leaks coming in from the attic, especially in older homes. Many holes, soffits, can lights, walls and
chases which look fine from below are actually open to the attic.These openings allow air and heat to easily enter the
home without you realizing it.A simple inspection in the attic can reveal many of these problems and most can be
remedied very easily by sealing the openings.
You can often feel air leaks, especially on a windy day, by simply placing your hand in front of potential leakage spots.
You can dampen your hand to feel the air flow better. If you are having difficulty locating air leaks, a more effective
method may be to conduct a basic building pressurization test, so you can actually see where there is air movement:
1. Close all exterior doors, windows, and fireplace flues.
2. Turn off all combustion appliances such as gas burning furnaces and water heaters.
3. Turn ON all exhaust fans (generally located in the kitchen and bathrooms) and even the dryer on a
no heat setting, or use a large window fan pointed outwards to suck air out of the home.
This will create a small amount of negative pressure in your home - drawing more air from outside to the interior and
making the leaks more apparent.You can use an incense stick or your damp hand to locate these leaks. If you use an
incense stick, its smoke will waver or swirl, showing air movement. Keep a damp cloth below the burning ash of the
stick and keep well away from combustibles. Note air leaks on the checklist (Appendix C) and/or mark those locations
with tape (blue painters tape, available in hardware stores, won’t leave a tape mark). A professional auditor can
perform this test for you with the use of a blower door. A blower door can tell you definitively how leaky your home is
and help pinpoint the problem areas. If you have a fireplace, use a bright flashlight to check the damper (the metal
plate in the chimney above the firebox and used to regulate the draft). Leaving your fireplace damper open when there
is no fire is like leaving your front door wide open! Dampers should be kept tightly closed when the fireplace is not in
use (and any previous fire is completely out). If you cannot tell if the seal is tight, close the damper on a day when there
is a breeze. Hold a lighted incense stick under the damper; if the flame or smoke sways or moves, the seal is not tight.
For a detailed home air sealing guide with excellent, full-color ‘how-to’ photos, go to www.energystar.gov and download
the PDF file of "A Do-it-Yourself Guide to ENERGY STAR® Home Air Sealing."
11
Insulation
Insulation slows the transfer of heat or the conduction of heat. Its purpose is to keep heat in during the winter and out
during the summer. Placing insulation between living spaces and unconditioned areas produces a thermal barrier
around your home. Insulation products are rated by their resistance to heat flow; this is called R-value.The higher the
number, the more effective the insulation is.When looking at the type and thickness of insulation the R-value is
determined by the type and thickness of the insulation material. Fiberglass insulation has an R-value of approximately
R-3 per inch, for cellulose insulation R-3.5 per inch (see chart below).You may even see more than one layer or type of
insulation, especially in your attic. Measure the total thickness to approximate the R-value in your home. If you notice
varying levels of insulation, measure the depth in a several places and average them together. Using the infrared
thermometer you can scan your walls and ceilings for temperature that might indicate missing insulation.Temperature
differences in walls and ceilings is an indication of differing R-values.
Chart Courtesy of Building Performance Institute
Typical Insulation R-values
Insulation Type
R-value per inch
Typical Applications
Cellulose, loose fill
Fiberglass, batts
3.7
3.0*
Fiberglass, loose fill
Fiberglass, loose fill, fluffed
2.8
uncertain
Rockwool
3.0
Vermiculite
Poly-isocyanurate, rigid board
Polystyrene, expanded rigid board
Polystyrene, extruded rigid board
Low Density Urethane, sprayed foam
Urethane, sprayed foam
2.7
7.0
4.0
5.0
3.7
6.0
Urea Formaldehyde Foam
4.0
Attic Floor
Basement Ceiling, Open Stud Walls, Attic
Floor*
Attic Floor, Walls (existing)
Do not install, or correct by blowing over with
higher density below manufacturer’s standards
Attic Floor, Walls, Basement Ceiling (may be
loose or batts)
Attic Floor
Foundation Walls, Attic Access Doors
Foundation Walls, Sill Plate
Foundation Walls, Sub-Slab, Sill Plate
Attics, Walls (new construction); Sill Plate,
Attics, Walls (new construction); Sill Plate,
Band Joist, Framing Transitions Band Joist,
Framing Transitions
Attics, Walls (existing)
Measuring Insulation Depth
Measuring Insulation Depth
Worksheet Action Step 3: Building envelope inspection
Use Appendix C as a guide and inspect your home for air leaks using the techniques mentioned on page 11
and record where they are so they can be sealed. Use weather stripping, foam, caulk or any other suitable
material to seal them when you have time or bring in a professional to seal them for you.
Go into the attic and inspect the insulation. Use your ruler to measure the depth of the insulation at an
average spot (see pictures on the left) and multiply it by the approximate R-Value of the insulation using the
values from above. This is the value of blown insulation in excellent condition. If your home has fiberglass
batts in the attic, use the guide below to determine its effective R-value,
䡲 Good: R-2.5 per inch (no gaps or other imperfections)
䡲 Fair: R-1.8 per inch (gaps over 2.5% of the insulated area)
䡲 Poor: R - .7 per inch (gaps over 5% 0f the insulated area)
Using the infrared thermometer
Take the infrared thermometer and walk around the home and take the temperature of the exterior walls and
ceilings and see if you can find any places of variation that show missing or poor insulation. This is best done
when it’s hot or cold outside.
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Step 4
Air Conditioning and Heating Equipment
Heating and cooling your home uses more energy and drains more energy dollars than any other system in your
home. Typically, over 40% of your utility bill goes for heating and cooling. However, if your system is not working
efficiently, as much as 30% to 50% of this energy is wasted. That’s money we want to save!
No matter what kind of HVAC system you have in your house, you can save money and increase your comfort by
properly maintaining your equipment, as recommended by the manufacturer. Generally, you should change filters
about once every month or two, especially during periods of high usage, and have a professional check and clean
your equipment once a year.
Your HVAC system is actually made
up of FOUR separate systems: The
compressor (outside unit), the air handler
(inside unit), the refrigerant loop and the
air distribution system (duct system).
They all play an important role in how the
system as
a whole will perform.
Return Air Temperature Measurements
A quick check of your systems
performance can be made using the
infrared thermometer. Measure the
temperature at the return register as well
as the supply register closest to the air
handler. The difference between those
two temperatures should be 14-22
Central Air conditioning & Heating System
degrees. Temperature differences above
Graphic Courtesy of Air-conditioning & Refrigeration Institute
or below those ranges are indications of
performance problems that warrant
professional attention for further diagnosis and correction.
Worksheet Action Step 4: HVAC system inspection
Use the infrared thermometer and measure the temperature difference (Delta T) of your return and supply
air. Measure the temperature at the return grill, usually larger grill or bottom of the air handler, and the
supply register (smaller grills). As mentioned above, it should be 14-22 degrees. Check all of the supply
grills and see if there are variances among them. Large temperature variations may mean that there are duct
leaks or air flow problems in that particular line. In winter, if the temperature is over 100 degrees, it may mean
the strip heaters are on, or you have a gas furnace.
Inspect the ducts using the information on page 12 and also use Appendix D as a guide to the overall
HVAC system inspection.
Supply Air Temperature Measurements
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This 14-22 degree difference should be there whether you are heating or cooling. In North Florida we
predominantly use heat pumps to heat and cool our homes. Heat pumps are air conditioning systems that can
reverse the refrigerant flow and heat a home instead of cooling it. As the weather gets colder, sometimes heat
pumps can’t provide enough heat so a separate set of strip heat coils in the air handler come on to help heat the
home. These are like toaster coils that get very hot and heat the air as it passes over. They consume a lot of energy
and are usually the culprit to the high bills you see in winter.
If the supply register temperature is over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, the strip heaters are probably on or you may
have a gas furnace.
Some homes have an air conditioner for cooling and just heat using the strip heaters in the air handler. This can
be very expensive. You’ll know what type of system you have by placing the HVAC system in heat mode and going
outside to see if the outdoor unit is running. If it is running, it’s a heat pump, if not, it’s an air conditioner and
heating with strip heaters or possibly gas. You can consult an HVAC contractor for more information if you’re not
sure or would like to learn more about your system.
If your equipment is more than 15 years old, consider replacing your system with one of the newer, energy-efficient
units. A new unit would greatly reduce your energy consumption, especially if the existing equipment is in poor
condition. But remember, an energy-efficient system alone will not have as great an impact on your energy bills as
using the whole-house approach discussed earlier. By combining proper equipment upgrades with appropriate
duct repairs, maintenance, insulation, air sealing, and thermostat settings, you can cut your energy use for heating
and cooling from 20% to 50%, while reducing environmental impact at the same time.
Ductwork
Leaky ducts can be the biggest loss of energy for your heating and cooling system. Older Florida homes typically
have ducts that leak 20 to 40 percent. This is money blowing out of your system and can be fixed relatively easily,
depending on the home. Inspect your ductwork for dirt streaks, especially near seams/joints, which indicate air
leaks. These air leaks should be sealed with duct mastic (NOT with duct tape which becomes brittle with heat and
age). Mastic usually looks white or gray, and is applied over the joints. Check all ductwork runs for any constriction
(crimps) or damage, and verify that any holes or lines no longer used by the duct system are fully sealed. If your
ductwork runs through un-conditioned spaces (such as an attic or crawlspace), check for insulation and determine
its depth and R-Value. An insulation R-Value of 6 is the recommended minimum. NOTE: If you suspect that ducts
or pipes are insulated with asbestos, do not touch it! Call a professional for an assessment.
Check for air leaks around each supply and return vent (registers). Very often the holes cut into the ceiling, walls,
or floor to install the vents are not sealed and can be a major source of air leakage. USE THE IR THERMOMETER
TO MEASURE TEMPS AT ALL OF THE SUPPLY AND RETURN GRILLS.
Step 5
Moisture Control
Excessive moisture is a precursor to mold and mildew. Using the Hygro-thermometer in your backpack audit kit,
measure the humidity in various rooms in your home. The EPA recommends that a healthy and comfortable home
have humidity levels between 40-60%. Low humidity can dry out contents and occupants and too much moisture
can be uncomfortable and lead to mold problems. Excessive moisture shows up on windows that “sweat” and as
mold on walls. Moisture commonly enters the home from roof leaks, cracked foundations, uncovered dirt flooring
in the crawlspace, blocked gutters, exhaust fans that are vented into the attic, vegetation too close to the house or
poor attic or crawl space ventilation. This moist air can then enter walls and ceiling cavities through unsealed
cracks. Check the outside of your home, along with your attic and crawl space, for possible moisture problems.
Moisture is also generated inside the home from cooking, bathing and breathing —normal daily household
activities.
Ventilation
Proper attic and crawl space ventilation is critical for keeping air circulating in your attic and crawl space areas. It
may seem counter-intuitive to encourage air to enter attic or crawl spaces, but good natural venting can also
greatly increase summer comfort by allowing the warm air in the attic to escape to the exterior before it enters
interior spaces. Be sure any vents are clear of debris, insulation, etc. Many people add fans to force vent these
areas, specifically the attic. Forced venting can actually be more harmful than good by sucking so much air out of
the attic that it draws the conditioned air out of the home with it and can be less efficient and cost you money.
Forced vented systems must designed properly and tested to ensure this does not occur.
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Worksheet Action Step 5: Checking for temperature and humidity variations
Place the Hygro-Thermometer in different rooms around the home. Start with those rooms that you feel may
have comfort or moisture issues first. Let it sit for at least 24 hours and see what the maximum and minimum
temperature and humidity levels were and see if the readings indicate a problem. Also check it periodically
with regard to the thermostat setting. Anything more than a 3 degree variation from what the temperature is
at the thermostat means there is an air flow problem to that part of the home and warrants further
investigation. Problems may be leaky ducts, small ducts (insufficient flow), lots of window space, sunny part
of the home, moisture infiltration from water or air leaks, etc., or a combination of these. Also try placing the
Hygro-Thermometer in the attic or crawl space for a few days and see what the maximum and minimum
temperature and humidity levels are.
Energy for Base Loads
Step 6
Water Heaters
Heating water for bathing and washing is typically the second largest energy expense in your home, and accounts
for an average of 17% of your household energy use. There are four ways to cut your water heating bills: use less
hot water, turn down the thermostat on your water heater (it should be at 120 degrees F), insulate your pipes
and/or with a jacket or blanket (if yours doesn’t have an internal one), or buy a new, more efficient model (if
yours is more than 7 years old). Also, be sure to follow your water heater manufacturer’s instructions for
maintenance. Measuring your water heater’s temperature to ensure the temperature is 120 degrees or below using
the infrared thermometer in your Backpack audit kit will not only save money, but also reduce the scald hazard
from water that is too hot for safe use.
Water heater settings are often inaccurate, so to check your water temperature using the infrared thermometer in
your backpack. Turn on the hot water at the faucet nearest the water heater. Let it run for a few minutes and fill up
a small bowl with the hot water. Use the infrared thermometer and take the temperature of the water.
When purchasing a new water heater, look for ENERGY STAR products and the EnergyGuide label that indicates
how much energy the water heater uses in one year. If considering an alternative to traditional tank-style water
heaters (such as tankless heat pump or solar water heaters), plan early and research well the advantages and
disadvantages for your situation (number of people, size of home, location of unit, etc.).
Look at your water pipes; exposed hot water pipes should be insulated, as well as the cold water pipes at least the
first 3 feet from the water heater. Foam pipe insulation is available for various pipe sizes. Wash only full loads,
and wash in cold water using cold-water detergents whenever possible (cold water cleans and rinses as well as
warm water for most loads). Again, look for the ENERGY STAR and EnergyGuide labels when upgrading; ENERGY
STAR clothes washers clean clothes using less energy and water than standard washers, and they also spin the
clothes better, resulting in less drying time.
Lighting
Making lighting improvements to your lighting is one of the fastest ways to cut your energy bill. An average
household dedicates 10% of its energy budget to lighting. Examine the wattage size of the light bulbs in your
house. You may have 100-watt (or larger) bulbs where 60 or 75 watts would do. Better yet, using new lighting
technologies, such as compact fluorescent lamps (CFL’s) and light emitting diodes LEDs, can reduce lighting
energy use in your home by 50% to 75%. JEA offers rebates or other incentives for purchasing CFL’s. And advances
in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time lights are on but not being used.
Lighting controls include indoor and outdoor applications, such as dimmers, occupancy and motion sensors,
timers, and photocells. Study your family’s lighting needs and use patterns, paying special attention to high-use
areas such as the living room, kitchen, and outside lighting. Chances are you’ll find many areas that can be
improved!
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Appliances
Appliances account for significant energy consumption, with refrigerators at 7%, clothes washers and clothes
dryers at 10%. Using the KILL-A-WATT EZ meters you can measure the consumption of each appliance. To measure
consumption of washing and drying clothes, measure the consumption for one complete load, then multiply by the
average number of loads per month to estimate monthly consumption. For your refrigerator, measure the
consumption for 5 days, and then multiply the consumption by 6 to get the average consumption for a 30-day
month. The average monthly consumption of any household appliance can be easily estimated using one of the
previously described methods. Multiple KILL A WATT EZ meters have been included in your audit backpack to allow
you to monitor several appliances simultaneously.
Most of the energy used by clothes washers and dishwashers are from heating the water. Clean the lint filter in the
dryer after every load to improve air circulation. Periodically inspect your dryer vent exhaust line to ensure it is not
blocked or crimped (which saves energy, and may prevent a fire). Regularly defrost manual-defrost refrigerators
and freezers; frost buildup decreases the energy efficiency of the unit. Don’t allow frost to build up more than one
quarter of an inch. Make sure your refrigerator door seals are airtight. Test them by closing the door over a piece of
paper or a dollar bill so it is half in and half out of the refrigerator. If you can pull the paper or bill out easily, the
latch may need adjustment, the seal may need replacing, or you might consider buying a new unit. A well clean
and well cared to appliance most always consumes less energy! When shopping for appliances, think of two price
tags. The first one covers the purchase price—think of it as a down payment. The second price tag is the cost of
operating the appliance during its lifetime. You’ll be paying on that second price tag every month with your utility
bill for the next 10 to 20 years, depending on the appliance.
Other Household Equipment
Just because the switch says “OFF” doesn’t mean the device is totally off! Many electronic devices continue to
draw a small amount of power when they are off. These “phantom” loads occur in most devices that use electricity,
such as VCRs, televisions, stereos, computers, and even kitchen appliances (many of these items have continuous
digital displays or clocks, rechargeable batteries, etc.). Even if the device might use a small amount of energy in
terms of watts, these phantom loads consume electricity 24/7, and the cumulative effect is substantial. Avoid
phantom loads by using a power strip and then turning off the power strip to cut all power to the
appliance/device. Also unplug rarely used devices.
Plugging refrigerator into
Kill-A-Watt meter
Many people believe that equipment lasts longer if it is never turned off. This common misconception carries over
from the days of older mainframe computers, but is simply not true for today’s devices.
Please use Appendix E as a reference when looking at your base loads.
Using an extension cord for
the refrigerator
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Worksheet Action Step 6: Finding out where base loads are going
Your water heater is the largest base load in your home. It’s difficult to measure the energy consumed
without special 240 volt metering devices. We can try to approximate that load using normal household
consumption patterns. Assume 20% of BASE LOAD for one person and 5% for each additional person in the
household. So, for a family of two it would be 25% and for a family of four it would be 35%.
The kit comes with three Kill-A-Watt meters. Plug one into the main television entertainment center, one
into the refrigerator (if feasible) and use the third to plug into any other appliance or device you feel may
use a lot of electricity. Follow the instructions and make sure the meters are reset after plugging them in
and record the date and time. Once plugged in, read watts as the equipment is running. This will let you
know how much power it uses when it’s running. Leave the meter in for 4 to 7 days and read the total kwh
consumed. Mark the date and time the reading was taken and divide the kwh consumed by the total number
of days that have passed. Be sure to use decimal places for better accuracy (i.e. 5.3 days). This will give you
kwh per day and from that you can multiply by thirty to get monthly consumption. A couple of tips:
䡲 Make sure to use a power strip for entertainment center so you are recording the TV, the cable box, DVD
player, etc.
䡲 If helpful, use a small extension cord between the wall outlet and Kill-A-Watt meter to allow for better
access.
䡲 Appliances and devices like computers and entertainment centers that have sporadic and varied run
times need to have the Kill-A-Watt meter plugged in longer to get average consumption data. Refrigerators
only need a few days since their consumption varies little from day to day. For washing machines, coffee
pots and other equipment that has a per use consumption, measure the kwh for each use and multiply
that by the estimated number of monthly usages.
䡲 Read the watts and amps drawn by electronic devices in the off and/or standby positions to determine
their “phantom loads”.
For lighting consumption you can use one of two methods, whichever you prefer.
Method 1: Take 10% of your annual consumption (Page 1 of worksheet) and divide by 12 to get monthly
consumption.
Method 2: Count up the light bulbs around the home and read their wattages. Put them in batches according
to the same wattage. Try and determine approximate runtimes for the lights and multiply that times their
wattage. Then, multiply that value by thirty (days in a month) and divide by 1000 for an approximate monthly
kwh usage. Example:
䡲 5–60 watt incandescent bulbs. One runs 15 minutes, two run about an hour and two run about 2 hours
a day. This is a total run time of 6 hours and 15 minutes (6.25 hours). So, 6.25 hours per day, times 60
watts, times 30 days and divided by 1000 equals 11.25 kwh per month.
䡲 6–20 watt CFLs. Two run for an hour, two run for 3 hours and two run for 6 hours. This is a total run time
of 20 hours. So, 20 hours per day, times 20 watts, times 30 days and divided by 1000 equals 12 kwh per
month.
䡲 Add the two batches together for a total of 23.25 kwh per month for lighting. Multiply that by your rate
(page 6 & 7) to determine an approximate monthly cost for lighting your home.
Once you have determined the approximate kwh per month that these individual appliances, electronics,
miscellaneous devices and lights are using, subtract it from your monthly base load and see what’s left.This will be
predominantly other small loads or larger loads like pool pumps, well pumps, compressors, etc.
Hopefully you have learned a lot about where you are consuming energy, how much these things are costing you and
some ideas on becoming more efficient. Next, let’s start formulating a plan to save energy and MONEY!
Please go to jea.com/backpack to provide us feedback on this guide and kit so that we may improve the
program for the future.
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Developing Your Strategy
Now that you’ve completed your audit, it’s time to develop a master plan for improvements. But first, it’s important to
assign priorities to your energy goals, which will allow you to make smart purchases and home improvements that
save the most money while maximizing energy efficiency.Ask yourself a few questions to begin developing your
strategy:
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How much money do you spend on energy?
Where are your greatest energy losses?
How long will it take for an improvement to pay for itself in energy cost savings?
Do the energy-saving measures you’re considering provide additional benefits that are important to you
(for example, increased comfort, reduced environmental impact)?
䡲 How long do you plan to own your current home?
䡲 Can you do the job yourself or will you need to hire a contractor?
䡲 What is your budget and how much time do you have to spend on maintenance and repair?
As you work through the process of developing your household energy efficiency plan, remember to take a wholehouse approach. In other words, view your home as an energy system with interdependent parts. For instance, your
cooling system is not just a single piece of equipment—it’s a whole system that starts at the compressor and delivers
cool air throughout your home using a network of ducts. Even a top-of-the-line, energy-efficient system will waste a lot
of energy if the ducts, walls, attic, windows, and doors are not properly sealed and insulated.Taking a whole-house
approach to saving energy ensures that the dollars you invest to save energy are spent wisely.
And don’t forget, a good master plan is ongoing, and will typically be implemented over time to help you reach your
goals. Now it’s time to make your home more comfortable while saving money! Refer to the Consumer Reports
Complete Guide to Reducing Energy Costs book that is in your kit, or go to www.jea.com for helpful information.
Paybacks
A payback is an estimate of how long it will take for an upgrade or improvement to save enough energy to pay for
itself.The best energy-efficient improvements are those you can do yourself, either for free or for very little cost.You
don’t have to spend a lot to save a lot! For instance, sealing air leaks are low cost and usually come in first place for
payback. Insulation, especially in walls, attics, or crawlspaces that have none, is usually an excellent investment. But
paybacks are subjective, meaning your current situation, budget, and ultimate goals will all have an impact on what
improvement is best for you and your family and home.
When looking at how much an improvement will save in energy and improve your comfort, consider the source of
information. Someone selling a product may overestimate the savings of that product or miss lower cost measures.
Obtaining unbiased information from JEA or engaging the services of a third party professional with nothing to sell can
help you strategize your goals.
The following lists of energy-conservation improvements are arranged in the order of their estimated payback.
Behavioral Changes that Save a Lot Immediately (These are Free!)
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(Summer) Keep thermostat at 78°F, adjust to 83°F when home is unoccupied
(Winter) Set thermostat at 68°F, then lower to 55°F at night and when home is unoccupied
Turn off ceiling or table fans when rooms are unoccupied
Close shades/blinds to keep heat out in summer
Make sure indoor heating/cooling vents and returns are not blocked
Keep the exterior portion of your heating and cooling unit free of debris and blockages
Close fireplace damper when fireplace is not in use
Wash only full loads of dishes, and air dry instead of using your dishwasher’s drying cycle
Take short showers instead of baths (time your shower under 5 minutes for best savings)
Don’t put cleaning tablets in the toilet tank – they can corrode the rubber flapper and cause it to leak
䡲 Turn off the water faucet when brushing your teeth or shaving
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Turn water heater off when leaving home for two or more days
Wash only full loads of clothes, and use cold water
Use a shutoff hose nozzle when washing your car—letting the water run can waste 150 gallons of water!
Use a broom instead of a hose to clean your sidewalks, patios, decks, driveway and gutters.
Clean your dryer’s lint filter after each use, which will allow it to work more efficiently
Make sure your dryer exhaust line is tightly connected and not kinked or compressed
Match pan size to burner size when cooking
Use glass or ceramic pans when cooking in the oven (you can reduce the cooking temperature by 25 degrees and food
will cook just as quickly)
Use your microwave instead of the stove whenever possible
Keep refrigerator temperature at 40 degrees, and freezer temperature at 5 degrees
Use the garbage disposal sparingly, consider composting instead (save gallons of water!)
Turn off your computer, monitor, printer, and any other electronic items when not in use
Plug home electronics, such as TVs and DVD players, into power strips; turn the power strips off when the equipment is
not in use
Low-Cost Improvements that Save a Lot Immediately
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Check your heating and air system filters once per month and replace regularly as needed
Have your heating and cooling equipment serviced and cleaned
Have your dryer exhaust line cleaned
Adjust water heater thermostats to 120°F
Insulate hot water pipes and insulate the first five feet of cold water pipe lines
Install low flow efficient showerheads and faucet aerators (look for the WaterSense label)
Repair or replace any leaking faucets (if replacing, look for the WaterSense label)
Make sure the rubber flapper in your toilet tank forms a tight seal; put 3 drops of food coloring in the tank, it if shows
up in the bowl, you have a leak. Change the flapper if leaking.
Install gaskets behind electric outlets and switch plates (start with exterior walls)
Seal air leaks to attic and crawl space with spray foam
Caulk, seal, or weather-strip windows, doors, cracks and holes, especially where plumbing and electrical wiring
penetrates walls, floors and ceilings
Replace door seals on refrigerators and freezers if not tight
Install moisture sensing shutoffs on your irrigation system (and remember to clean annually)
Improvements with an Estimated One to Two-Year Payback
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Install programmable thermostats
Have a blower door test conducted to assist with air sealing
Consider some well placed deciduous trees, shrubs, and/or lattice or trellis with climbing vines for shading sunny
walls, windows, and walkways
Add overhangs to south windows—if designed correctly, they will allow the sun’s rays to enter in the winter but
block them in the summer
Add an insulation jacket/blanket to your water heater
Replace toilets manufactured before 1994 with water efficient toilets
Install compact fluorescent lights in all light fixtures (look for the ENERGY STAR label)
Install dimmer switches, photocells, timers and motion detectors to reduce lighting use (especially in high-use
areas such as the living room, kitchen, and outside lighting)
Install do-it-yourself insulated panel or cover to seal fireplace when not in use
Improvements with an Estimated Two to Four-Year Payback
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Insulate the rim joist of an un-conditioned crawlspace
Install attic insulation to achieve a minimum R-38
Install under floor/crawlspace insulation to achieve a minimum R-30
Install fireplace modifications such as glass doors, flue top damper and outside combustion air
Install window film or solar screens on east and west windows
Install wall insulation in un-insulated exterior walls
Install ceiling fans (but do not leave them on when you are not in the room!)
Improvements with an Estimated Five+ Year Payback
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Install commercial storm windows
Replace existing single-pane windows with new double, or even triple-pane, windows
Replace older air conditioning system with energy efficient model with a SEER 16 or greater
Install an energy efficient hot water tank or tankless water heater
Install active solar hot water system
When the time comes for replacement, consider a roof color other than black. A black roof will absorb the heat of
the sun and re-radiate it into your home (not good!)
䡲 When the time comes for replacement, consider equipment and appliances with the ENERGY STAR label.
ENERGY STAR products meet strict efficiency guidelines set by the U.S. Department of Energy and the
Environmental Protection Agency.
Post Audit
After you’ve completed this audit and made some changes in your home based on the recommendations in this guide,
consider doing this audit again in a few months. Did you find and fix some air leaks? Did you make small or large
improvements, or a combination of both? At a minimum, review your JEA utility bills in a few months to check for
decreases. Even with small changes in your awareness and minor improvements in the energy efficiency of your home,
the impact on your energy consumption should be significant! As outlined in the beginning of this guide, you should be
saving money on your utility bills, experiencing more comfort in your home, and finding your home healthier—which all
leads to a decreased impact on the environment.
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Home Energy and Water Efficiency Resource Investment Curve
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Set thermostat at 78° in summer,
68° in winter
Set temperature 5° warmer when not at
home in summer (or 5° cooler in winter)
Set thermostat on “auto”
Check and/or change heating and
AC filter monthly
Use fans to feel cooler in the summer
Close shades/blinds to keep heat out
in summer
Only increase thermostat by 1° or 2° at
a time in the winter
Set water heater to 125°
Turn water heater off when leaving home
for two or more days
Wash full loads and use cold water
Dump that 2nd frig and save $5 to
$20 per month
Check that toilet flapper valve for
leaks often
Ensure correct lawn irrigation times, days
and water amounts
Turn off lights when not in use
Don’t let the water run when not in use
Tier 1 Investments Varied Savings—Immediate Return
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Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Weather Strip & Caulk
Refrigerant Charge
Heating/AC Maintenance
Compact Fluorescent Light Bulb
Water Heater Blanket
Heat Trap for hot water line
Faucet Aerators
Low-Flow Showerhead
Water Heater Temp Check & Adjustment
Hot Water Line Pipe Insulation
Programmable Thermostat
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
Ceiling Insulation Upgrade
Radiant Barrier
Energy Star Electronics (TV, DVD, PC, etc.)
Duct Repair
Sunscreen/Solar Screen
Window Film
High-Efficiency Toilet Replacement
Efficient Pool Pump
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Tier 3 Investments Good SavingsTo Cost Ratio, Moderate
Payback Time—2–5 Years
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
□
Tier 2 Investments Highest Savings To Cost Ratio, Quickest
Payback Time—1 Year or Less
Energy Star Appliances
High-Efficiency Heating/AC Unit
□ Solar or Heat Pump Water Heater
□ Reflective Roof
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Water Heater 17%
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Plan Date:
Heating &
Cooling 40%
Source: Residential Energy Consumption Survey, 2005 via www.energystar.gov
Refrigerator 7%
Clothes Washer
& Dryer 10%
Lighting 10%
Electronics 6%
Other 10%
Typical Single-Family Home Energy Use
Heat or Energy Recovery Unit
Low-E Windows
□ Solar Electric Panels
□ Geothermal Heat Pumps
□
□
Tier 5 Investments Lowest Savings To Cost Ratio, Longest
Payback Time—Greater Than 10 Years
□
□
□
Tier 4 Investments Moderate Savings To Cost Ratio, Lengthy
Payback Time—6–10 Years
Home Energy and Water Efficiency Resource Investment Curve Planner
SECTION 2: WATER AUDIT
Where Does Your Water Come From and Where Does It Go?
JEA gets the water it provides you from a pristine underwater lake called the Floridan aquifer. The aquifer lies deep
underground and is a great source of fresh water for Floridians but it is also a very fragile resource. JEA does not
own, or have free access to this water. It must get permits from the St. Johns River Water Management District
(SJRWMD) to drill wells into the aquifer in order to provide water to our customers. The SJRWMD regulates this
water supply in Northeast Florida for the State. Basically, JEA is the pump that gets the water to your home.
Like a well system in an average home (just much bigger), JEA pumps the water from the aquifer into a holding
tank where it aerates the water to reduce sediments. It then filters the water, adds hypochlorite to kill any bacteria
and pumps the water through the water distribution system to your home. Much like the electric grid, this system
is a water grid. When you turn on a faucet, hose bib or shower, the water from the aquifer flows into your home and
you are charged for every one thousand gallons or for every 100 cubic feet of water you use. JEA pumps an
average of three billion gallons of water to JEA customers every month. Your monthly payment helps operate and
maintain a system that delivers water to our entire community.
As water flows down the drain and becomes sewage, it goes back into a network of pipes and lift stations
(pumping stations) that deliver the wastewater back to a wastewater treatment plant where JEA filters and treats
the wastewater. The water is cleaned to EPA standards and sent to the St. Johns River. The cost you pay to remove
and dispose of your sewage is based on the amount of water you consume. The high cost to clean sewer water is
the reason the sewer portion of your bill is much more expensive than the water portion.
Some customers may have irrigation systems that are on reclaimed water. JEA has reclaimed water systems in
certain areas of town, mainly newer developments. Reclaimed water is wastewater that has been cleaned to a
higher standard and can be used for irrigation. This water is not for human consumption but is great for irrigating
landscapes.
Understanding Your Water & Sewer Bill
Step 1
Sometimes, the water and sewer portions of your bill can be confusing. So before we get down to the business of
changing water consumption habits, let’s first examine how much water and sewer service you use and how you’re
charged for it.
Service Availability Charge—A Base Rate
All water and sewer customers pay a base rate or service availability charge for water and sewer services. These
charges are used to install and maintain the vast and expensive underground network of water and sewer pipes
that bring water and take away sewage from your home. Your service availability charges are based on the size of
your water meter. Eighty percent of JEA’s water customers have a 5/8” meter. But if your meter is larger, say ¾” or
1”, your service availability charge is higher. (See charts on next page).
Review Your Bill
23
Think of your meter as the hose that brings water into your home: the larger the hose (or meter) the more water
available to you at any one time. Large homes built with five bathrooms, a pool and a Jacuzzi need a lot of water,
right? Builders often put bigger meters on bigger homes to deliver water faster. And a bigger meter means higher
service availability charges. Don’t know the size of your water meter? Look on your water bill. It’s the number
underneath the word “Meter.” JEA does not use a separate sewer meter to measure sewer charges. The service
availability charge for sewer is based on the size of your water meter.
When you conserve water, the usage portion of your bill will go down, especially if you’re a big user. But the service
availability charges will not. These fixed fees must be paid monthly regardless of how much water you conserve. So
why save water? Because there may not be enough clean water left in the aquifer to serve our state’s needs in the
future. The Floridan aquifer is a fragile natural resource that we all must help protect.
JEA Service Availability Charges for Water
JEA Service Availability Charges for Sewer
Monthly, Residential
Monthly, Residential
Meter Size
Rate as of Oct. 1, 2012
Meter Size
Rate as of Oct. 1, 2012
5/8”
$12.60
5/8”
$14.10
3/4”
$18.90
3/4”
$21.15
1”
$31.50
1
$32.25
1 1/2”
$63.00
1 1/2””
$70.50
2”
$100.80
2”
$112.80
3"
$201.60
Consumption Charge on Your JEA Water & Sewer Bill
Besides service availability charges, JEA also charges for water and sewer consumption. Consumption is based on
every 1,000 gallons of water used, although some customers don’t see a gallon amount on their bill. They see a
charge in cubic feet instead. The type of water meter attached to your home determines whether you are billed in
gallons or cubic feet.
If you are billed in cubic feet simply multiply the number of cubic feet by 748 to convert it to gallons.
(100 c.f. = 748 gallons) or (1 c.f. = 7.48 gallons).
JEA customers do not have separate sewer meters to measure home sewer usage. Instead, JEA uses your
water meter consumption to determine your charges for sewer service.
Water and Sewer Rates
The rates you’re charged for monthly water consumption and sewer service are based on a tiered system.
Two thirds of all JEA water/sewer customers use between one thousand and six thousand gallons of water a
month. This puts them squarely in the first tier of rate charges—at .93 cents per one thousand gallons for water
and $4.94 per one thousand gallons for sewer. (See charts below.)
After you’ve used more than six thousand gallons of water and sewer service —between seven and 20,000 gallons
a month—you’re charged at two rates. The first six thousand gallons are billed from tier one, the next seven to
20,000 gallons from tier two, at $2.60 per thousand gallons for water and $6.02 per thousand gallons for sewer.
And if you use more than 20,000 gallons of water a month you must pay accordingly from all three tiers for water.
There’s no third tier for sewer service because JEA figures if you used that much water, much of it went to irrigation,
and therefore did not go through the sewer system
JEA Residential Water Rates based on Usage
JEA Residential Sewer Rates based on Usage
(Effective October 1, 2012)
(Effective October 1, 2012)
Tier
Rate
1 – 6 Kgallon
$0.93 per Kgallon
7 – 20 Kgallon
$2.60 per Kgallon
>20 Kgallon
$5.60 per Kgallon
Tier
Rate
1
1 – 6 Kgallon
$4.94 per Kgallon
7
1 – 20 Kgallon
$6.02 per Kgallon
Ever tried imagining what 1,000
gallons of water looks like? Consider
the gallon water jugs sold at the
grocery store. A big display may
contain 300 gallons. To display one
thousand gallons, grocery store
stockers would need to fill both sides
of one very long grocery store aisle
and part of another aisle after that.
Why the Tiers? The St. Johns River Water Management District is the state regulatory agency that monitors JEA’s
water operations. As part of its mandate from SJRWMD, JEA must manage Northeast Florida’s water resources
wisely. The tier system is based on the water consumption patterns of the average residential household in
Northeast Florida. JEA feels the tiers are the most responsible way to balance consumption with conservation.
24
Residential Irrigation Charges
If you have a separate irrigation meter, you will also see a monthly service availability charge and a tiered water
charge for irrigation on your bill. The monthly service availability charge for irrigation is based on the size of your
irrigation meter. As with your residential water meter, JEA must levy this charge to pay for the infrastructure needed
to bring water to your lawn when you want it. Larger meters cost you more each month. You do not need to pay a
sewer charge for irrigation because the water goes back into the ground and does not need to be treated.
JEA Residential Irrigation Rates
(Effective October 1, 2012)
Meter Size
SA Charge
Tier
Rate
5/8”
$12.60
1-14 kgal
$2.60
¾”
$18.90
>14 kgal
$5.60
1”
$31.50
1 ½”
$63.00
Should I Install an Irrigation Meter?
Many JEA customers want to know if they can save money on sewer rates by installing an irrigation meter to water
their lawn. The short answer to that question is not anymore.
Several years ago the St. Johns River Water Management District persuaded JEA to raise the rates on irrigation
meters in an effort to get homeowners to conserve water. Add in the fact you also need to pay a professional to
install the meter and you can only use it twice a week because of water restrictions, the payback on your new
irrigation meter will take years. It may be more financially advantageous for you to dig a shallow well or simply pay
to water your lawn efficiently and effectively using your residential meter.
Action Step One: Determine Your Household Water/Sewer Consumption, Tier Charges and Service
Availability Charges.
Get a year’s worth of water bills and put the water consumption for each month in column 2 [Note: You can
go to jea.com and log into your account to get your consumption information—See Appendix B.] Then, break
out how much water/sewer was used in each tier.
For Example: In February you used 10,000 gallons of water. 10,000 goes in column 2, 6000 goes in columns
3 and 6 and 4000 goes in columns 4 and 7. If you have an irrigation meter, use a separate worksheet to do
the same calculations for irrigation.
Once you have all 12 months broken down, add all the columns up and put those values in the corresponding
tier calculations section and multiply by that tier rate to determine how much money you are spending in
each tier. Now you can easily determine how much money you can save when you start using less water.
Once you have calculated your cost for water, write down the size of your meter (found on your bill below
meter size). Find the corresponding monthly service availability charge for water and sewer, write it down and
multiply by 12 to get the annual cost for service availability.
Determine If You have Any Water Leaks
Steps Two, Three and Four
Now that you understand your bill and how you’re charged for the water you consume, let’s look at ways to start
saving water and money inside your home.
25
First, you need to determine if anything is leaking. A leaky toilet, for instance, can silently steal hundreds of dollars
from your wallet before you even realize you have a leak.
Action Step Two: Determine If You Have Any Water Leaks.
Turn off all water sources both inside and outside your home, including icemakers, misters even automatic
pool filters. Grab a large, flathead screwdriver and go outside to the water meter. It’s usually a box in the
ground with a lid on it in the front yard beside the sidewalk or the road. Use the screwdriver to pry off the lid.
Be careful when opening —there could be critters inside. Brush away any dirt and look at the meter.
1. If the small red dial is still spinning you have a leak. Recheck to be certain you turned everything off.
2. If the dial is not moving, note its position. Recheck in 10 minutes. If the dial has moved even a tiny bit,
you likely have a slow leak.
3. If the dial has not moved when you recheck, you do not have a leak.
4. Still unsure? Go to www.jea.com/waystosave and watch a two minute “How To in Two” video on how to
diagnose a water leak.
It’s a good idea to perform this check every 4—6 months to make sure a leak hasn’t popped-up. It will also
help you keep your water meter box clean.
Typical Water Meter
Determine Water Wasted
Ever wonder how much water is wasted by just one leaky faucet or a leaky showerhead? Our next action step will
show you.
Action Step Three: Determine If Your Toilets are Leaking.
Put three drops of food coloring or a glass of tea in your toilet tank. Do not flush. Wait 10 minutes. If you see
any of that food coloring or tea in the toilet bowl, you have a leak and chances are an old or faulty toilet
flapper is the cause. (Be sure and flush the toilet after this experiment to avoid staining the tank.) Sometimes
it’s a quick fix, stuck chain or mineral build up, other times the flapper valve needs to be replaced.
According to the EPA, 10 percent
of all homes in the United States
have leaks that waste 90 gallons
or more a DAY!
If it needs replacing, you can replace the toilet flapper yourself. Go to www.toiletflapper.org for a step-by-step
tutorial on how to replace a leaky flapper. Depending on the severity of the leak, you will save a lot of water
once the flapper is replaced.
If you hear the toilet’s fill tank come on when not in use, that’s a sure sign you have a leaky toilet.
Action Step Four: Calculate Water Being Wasted By Dripping Fixtures.
Hold the plastic drip gauge from the JEA backpack under a dripping faucet or showerhead for 5 seconds and
then remove quickly. Look on the drip gauge to see how many gallons of water are dripping away every day
and every year!
On the worksheet, log the gallons per day (GPD) from the drip gauge and multiply by 30 to see how much
water that leaky fixture is wasting every month (GPM). Do this for all leaky fixtures in the house.
Toilet Flapper
If you don’t have a drippy faucet or showerhead and would like to do this Action Step, turn a faucet on low so
the water drips out. Use the drip gauge as instructed above.
High Efficiency Water Fixtures
Step Five
If your house was built before 1994, chances are your faucets and showerheads are not as water efficient as they
could be. New high efficiency showerheads can deliver water below 2.5 gallons a minute, which can save you a lot
of water.
Action Step Five: Determine The Flow Rate of Faucets and Showerheads.
Starting in the kitchen, hold the plastic water flow bag from the JEA backpack tightly over the end of the
kitchen faucet. Turn on the water to a normal flow for 5 seconds and turn the water off quickly. Examine the bag.
If the bag is filled above the water efficient mark, chances are you need a new faucet or a high efficiency
aerator. Aerators are small screens easily purchased in the plumbing department of hardware stores that
screw onto the end of your faucet. They save you money by mixing the water that comes out of your faucet
with air.
Repeat this process with every faucet and showerhead in your home. Some showerheads have the flow rate
stamped on the face. You can look for that instead of testing, or you can test it to verify that it is correct.
Water Flow Bag
26
Shorter Showers
Step Six
Older faucets tend to gather
lime deposits at the end, making it
difficult if not impossible to screw
on an aerator. To get rid of
these deposits, fill a small plastic bag
with white vinegar and tie it around
the end of the faucet. Leave it on for
several hours. When you remove it,
the lime deposit should be gone,
or at least loose enough to
clean away with a brush.
One of the best ways to significantly save water inside your home is to take shorter showers. According to the EPA,
pre-1992 shower heads use an average of 5 gallons of water a minute while post 1992 shower heads use an
average of 2.5 gallons or less each minute. Since the average shower time in America is 8 minutes, you will save 6 15 gallons of water per shower (depending on your shower head) by cutting your shower time by just 3 minutes.
Shorter showers save more than water. They save energy, too, because you use less hot water from your water heater.
Action Step Six: Calculating Water Used During Showers.
1. Determine the flow rate of your showerhead [Action Step 5].
2. Place the shower timer on the wall in the shower.
3. Take a normal shower and record the length. The timer is set up for 5 minute increments. So, going through
the timer twice is a 10 minute shower.
4. Using the chart, multiply the length of your shower by gallons used.
5. Repeat this process for every member of your family.
6 Add each family member’s time to get total average gallons used per day.
7. Multiply the average gallons used per day by 30 to get the average gallons used per month
Pre-1992 Showerhead
5 gpm
Post 1992 Showerhead
2.5 gpm
High Efficiency
Showerhead 1.5 gpm
Time
Gallons Used
Time
Gallons Used
Time
Gallons Used
10 min.
50 gallons
10 min.
25 gallons
10 min.
15 gallons
8 min.
45 gallons
8 min.
20 gallons
8 min.
12 gallons
5 min.
25 gallons
5 min.
12.5 gallons
5 min.
7.5 gallons
Shower Timer: Five Minute Shower
Water Efficient Toilets and Appliances
Step Seven
Older toilets use a lot more water per flush than newer ones. That’s why many people are replacing old models
with new High Efficiency Toilets (HETs). Your water consumption will go down considerably if you do. By replacing
just one 3.5 gallon toilet with a new 1.6 gallon HET model, a family of four will save 11,096 gallons of water a
year. You can also install a flapperless toilet so you’ll save water and never have a flapper valve leak again.
Consider installing a water-stop valve
on your shower. This allows you to stop
the water while you soap up and
quickly turn it back on again when
ready to rinse. These devices are
common aboard Navy ships where
fresh water is scarce.
You can convert your current toilet to a dual flush one by installing a kit that you can buy at the hardware store.
Dual flush toilets handle waste differently by giving you a choice of flushes —more water for solid waste, less for
liquid, which brings us to our next Action Step.
Action Step Seven: Determine Age of Toilet and Gallons per Flush.
Remove the tank lid. Look underneath it for any date stamped on the porcelain. If you don’t find a date there,
look inside the tank itself on the back wall just above the waterline. Still no date? Find the make and model
and call the manufacturer.
Pre-1982: 5-7 Gallons per Flush
1982-1992: 3.5 Gallons per Flush
After 1992: 1.6 Gallons per Flush
Water Efficient Appliances
Your clothes washer is another big water user in your home. If you’ve been thinking about upgrading to a more
efficient model, the cost saving per load is worth it. High efficiency washing machines can save up to 50 percent of
the water used and 65 percent of the energy used compared to conventional top-loading washing machines.
27
If you own a clothes washer manufactured before 1998, you’ll definitely want to consider buying an ENERGY STAR
rated washer. New ENERGY STAR qualified clothes washers use less than a third of the energy—and less than half
the water—of other models. These washers use superior designs that require less water to get clothes thoroughly
clean. The machines also use sensors to match the hot water needs to the load, preventing energy waste. And, JEA
will give you a one-time rebate if you buy an ENERGY STAR rated washer. Visit jea.com/shopsmart for more.
And while you’re shopping for a new clothes washer, check out the new dishwashers, too. According to the
Environmental Protection Agency, if your dishwasher was built before 1994, you are wasting more than 10 gallons
of water per cycle. Remember: try not to rinse your dishes before putting them in the dishwasher. Scrape them and
let the dishwasher take care of the rest.
Find out more about JEA’s ShopSmart Appliance rebate program at jea.com/shopsmart
Saving Water Outside Your Home
Thirty to forty percent of the water JEA supplies its customers is used outside the home. Of that amount, almost
half is wasted by inefficiently watering landscapes. Think about that. Almost half the water that you use outside
your house is wasted. The good news is that there are some simple steps you can do to begin saving on your
outdoor water use.
Start by knowing the outdoor water restrictions in Northeast Florida. The water restrictions below may change, so
be sure and check out the website for the St. Johns River Water Management District for the latest.
www.sjrwmd.com/wateringrestrictions.
Watering Restrictions Northeast Florida (as of 3/13)
Source: Courtesy St. Johns River Water Management District
Time of year
Daylight saving time
Homes with
odd numbered or
no addresses
Homes with
even numbered
addresses
Nonresidential
properties
Wednesday/Saturday
Thursday/Sunday
Tuesday/Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Tuesday
Eastern Standard Time
䡲
䡲
䡲
䡲
䡲
䡲
䡲
䡲
Daylight saving time: Second Sunday in March until the first Sunday in November
Eastern Standard Time: First Sunday in November until the second Sunday in March
An odd numbered address is one that ends in 1, 3, 5, 7 or 9.
An even numbered address is one that ends in 0, 2, 4, 6 or 8.
Water only when needed and not between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.
Water for no more than one hour per zone.
Restrictions apply to private wells and pumps, ground or surface water and water from public and
private utilities.
Some exceptions apply.
Sprinkler Head
When you water on your designated days, you want to be sure and lay down ½” of water per cycle for a total of
one inch per week.Your grass will actually do well on this schedule because it forces the roots to grow deep in
search of water instead of hanging around the surface waiting to be watered. But you must be sure to get down
½” every time you water.
Your Irrigation System
Steps Eight, Nine and Ten
In order to make sure your lawn gets 1/2” of water twice a week, you need to make sure your sprinkler system is
working efficiently and effectively. The best way to do that is to put on a raincoat or a poncho and head outside.
Action Step Eight: Check Your Irrigation System.
Turn on your sprinkler system. Walk around your yard and check to make sure all your sprinkler heads are
pointing on the grass. If not, adjust them. If necessary, use the sprinkler tool in the JEA Backpack or small
screwdriver (see page 113 in the “Sprinklers” book in the JEA backpack), or, you may want to call a
professional. Now walk your lawn with the system off. Are any sprinkler heads still dribbling or spewing water?
If so, the heads may need to be replaced or otherwise fixed.
Also check the timer and make sure you are only watering two days a week in summer and one day a week in
winter.
28
Action Step Nine: Check Distribution Performance of the Irrigation System.
Take out the yellow sprinkler gauges from the JEA backpack. Place the gauges around the sprinkler zone being
checked. Focus heavily on brown or consistently wet areas since these are indications of poor water
distribution.
Turn on your irrigation system for exactly: 15 minutes. Turn it off. Measure the depth of water in each container.
Add those amounts together and divide the total by the number of containers to get the average amount of
water. Then, multiply that number by 4 to calculate the precipitation rate of your irrigation system in inches
per hour. Repeat this process until the output and functionality of all sprinkler heads is determined. Page 111
of the Ortho Sprinkler book explains this test in more detail.
Catch Can Close Up
If you notice a big difference in the amount of water in the gauges, you will need to adjust the sprinkler heads
or call in a professional to give your lawn equal coverage.
Your irrigation system should evenly provide ½” of water per run cycle to your landscape. So, if your
precipitation rate is 1” per hour, the run cycle should be 30 minutes. 2” per hour means a run cycle of 15
minutes. Adjust the zone run cycles on the irrigation timer to achieve ½” of water per cycle.
Some soils hold more moisture and require less water. It may not be necessary to water as frequently if the soil
retains moisture.
Micro-Irrigation Systems
Micro-Irrigation is a watering system that delivers water through small devices called emitters. The water can drip
from the emitter, bubble from the emitter or spray/mist from it. Emitters can deliver water from underground near
a plant’s roots, or above ground by drip or spray. The feeder tubes and emitters are small and easily covered by
mulch or soil. Micro-irrigation systems save water because they’re precise and because there’s less evaporation
and runoff than with traditional sprinkler systems. The sprinkler book inside your JEA Backpack contains an entire
chapter on micro-irrigation beginning on page 72. Like all irrigation systems, micro-irrigation systems require
periodic maintenance to ensure the emitters are clear and free of debris and mineral buildup.
Underground Irrigation leaks
The best way to determine if your grass
needs a drink is to step on a healthy
patch of green lawn for ten seconds.
Step off. If the grass bounces back,
it’s fine. If you still see the imprint of
your foot, give your grass a drink.
Underground leaks in your irrigation system can be difficult to find. The best way to tell if you have one is to look
for a section of your lawn that stays extremely wet, with water forming puddles or even pools in one spot. If so, this
MAY be where the leak is located. Refer to page 116 in the “Sprinklers” book inside your JEA Backpack for details.
We recommend calling a specialist at this point, preferably a member of the Florida Irrigation Society
(www.fisstate.org). This indicates the specialist goes to meetings and cares enough about his or her profession to
stay up to date on the latest technology. Make sure your specialist is bonded. It also never hurts to ask how long
he or she has been in business.
Rain Sensor Shut-Off Devices
Rain sensor shut-off (RSS) devices are an important part of your irrigation system. Whether you irrigate with clean
potable water or well water or even reclaimed water, you must have a shut-off device. In May 1991, state
legislators passed a law requiring all irrigation systems to have a functional RSS device installed.
Your RSS device will not work until a pre-determined amount of water falls into it —usually half an inch. Most
people think the RSS device will turn their irrigation system off as soon as it starts raining. This is not the case. The
cylinder must contain a half inch of water before the RSS device signals the controller to shut down the system.
Action Step 10: Cleaning Your RSS Device.
In order for your RSS device to work correctly, it must be positioned so that rainfall can enter it easily. Make
Rain Barrel
29
sure yours is not located under the roofline or covered by shrubbery. At least once a year you should unscrew
the cylinder head and carefully wipe out any dust or debris inside. You should also remove the cork rings,
clean them and reinstall. When used properly, rain sensors are a simple, effective way to conserve water.
Rainwater harvesting is a fancy term for saving water in a barrel in your backyard when it rains. This water can be
used to water plants and vegetables during dry days. And you don’t have to buy an expensive cistern either. The
Duval and St. Johns County Extension Services in conjunction with the University of Florida Institute of Food and
Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) hold periodic programs on how to make your own rain barrel. (duval.ifas.ufl.edu/)
(stjohns.ifas.ufl.edu/) Often the barrels they use are recycled 50 gallon plastic drums that once were used for
shipping olives to the USA from Greece. Experts will help you add a spigot to the barrel during class, and he or she
will give you a screen to allow water into the barrel when it rains and to keep mosquitoes out. Be careful where you
position your rain barrel. You will gather far more water if you place it under an eave or, better yet, below a valley.
That’s where two parts of your roof come together and water pours down when it rains.
JEA LawnSmart Program
LawnSmart is a free program available to all JEA customers, particularly those who use
LawnSmart
23,000 gallons of water a month or more, much of it to irrigate their lawns. LawnSmart
experts will come to your home, analyze your irrigation system and find ways for you to save.
Irrigation experts will examine your water meter, program your controller, inspect the sprinkler heads (check
direction, etc.) and check your rain sensor to make sure it’s placed where it should be. They cannot actually fix
anything. But they will give you a complete, unbiased assessment of your system that you can give to your
irrigation professional.
Typically, customers see up to a 35 percent saving on their monthly water bill after a visit from LawnSmart’s
irrigation experts. To set-up your free irrigation inspection, call LawnSmart at 1-866-664-8644.
Native Plants
Native or Florida Friendly Plants
Just because we must be careful when we water our lawns, doesn’t mean we have to settle for a brown landscape.
There are scores of native or Florida friendly, drought tolerant, sun-loving plants that will beautify your yard and not
be a water hog. Who knows? You may like these plants so much you’ll want to get rid of your turf and ‘go
completely native!’
To find the best native plants for your yard go to www.floridayards.org. The website is operated in part by the
University of Florida/IFAS Extension. And remember, grasses and plants can be trained to use less water. When
you use less water, you’ll force your grass and in-ground plants to grow deeper roots in search of underground
moisture.
Swimming Pool and Spas
Step Eleven
The number of homeowners with a backyard swimming pool or spa is only expected to grow in the coming years.
Thus, pool owners and spa owners need to be mindful of water savings. Buy a pool or spa cover if you don’t have
one already to reduce evaporation. These covers work so well, some would like to make them mandatory.
Remember: warmer water evaporates faster than cooler water. Just make sure your pool cover fits properly over
the pool. Also, tell the kids to stop the water fights. Experts say boisterous play causes an inordinate amount of
water loss due to “splash-outs.”
Swimming pool with cover
Action Step 11: Check Your Pool for Water Leaks.
Set a gallon jug of water on the first step in your pool. Mark the high water line with an indelible marker. Take
out the jug. Repeat this process several hours later. If the water level has dropped the second time you
measure it, you have a leak. An inch-a-day leak in a 15 x 30 foot pool can waste approximately 102,000
gallons of water a year. If you must add water to your pool because of a leak, JEA will allow you to fill it once
a year without paying sewer charges, only water charges. Call 665-6000 and ask for a swimming pool affidavit.
This must be filled out in order to get the savings.
Before you add water to your pool, check your bill. You want to input water at the beginning of the month when
your water billing cycle is in the first tier, not later when you could be in the third tier, and it’s more expensive.
30
Develop a Water Strategy
Now that you’ve completed a water check both inside and outside your home, it’s time to develop a master plan
for improvements. You need to assign priorities to your water goals, which will allow you to make smart purchases
and home improvements that save the most money while maximizing water efficiency. Here are a few questions to
ask yourself to begin developing your strategy:
1. How much money do you spend on water?
2. Where are your greatest water losses?
3. How long will it take for an improvement to pay for itself in water cost savings?
4. Do the water-saving measures you’re considering provide additional benefits that are important to you?
(For example: will a new clothes washer also help you save on energy costs and make clothes washing faster
and easier?)
5. How long do you plan to own your current home?
6. Can you do the job yourself or do you need to hire a professional?
7. What is your budget and how much time do you have to spend on maintenance and repair?
A good master plan is ongoing and will typically be implemented over time to help you reach your goals. You’ll
also want to take into account how long it will take for an upgrade or improvement to save enough water to pay
for itself. The best improvements are the ones you can do for free or for very little cost. So stop jiggling the handle
on your toilet to make the leak go away and change that leaky flapper instead!
Take the Pledge
You don’t have to raise your right hand and swear an oath, but we’re asking every member of your family to take this
pledge. Saving water is easy. And you’ll feel good about helping to save a precious natural resource.
[
I acknowledge that water is an increasingly precious natural resource in Florida.
I pledge to save at least ten gallons of water per day by following these simple water saving practices:
Pledge
I will turn on the dishwasher only when full
I will turn off the water when I brush my teeth, wash my face and shave
I will take just one two to five minute shower a day
I will fix leaky toilets
I will fix leaky faucets
I will fill the bathtub only halfway
I will wash only full loads in the washing machine
I will install at least three low flow aerators on kitchen and bathroom faucets
[
31
Savings
2 gallons
8 gallons
5 gallons
30 gallons
15 gallons
18 gallons
15 gallons
14 gallons
I pledge to save at least ten gallons of water per day on my lawn and garden
by following these water saving practices outside:
Pledge
I will plant only native Florida plants in my yard
I will water my lawn and plants in the late evening or early morning
I will eliminate one irrigation cycle a week
I will reset irrigation controllers and replace batteries in early spring & fall
I will adjust sprinklers to prevent overspray and runoff
I will repair leaks and broken sprinkler heads
I will mulch 2—3” around trees and plants to prevent evaporation
I will install a smart controller that automatically shuts off when it rains
]
]
Savings
30 gallons
20 gallons
15—20 gallons a minute
Up to 250 gallons per cycle
15—25 gallons a day
10 gallons a minute per leak
20—30 gallons
40 gallons
For more ways to save water both inside and outside your home, read the water section in the Green Team Project book in
this backpack.
Appendix A: How to Read Your JEA Bill
Knowing what charges on your bill are due to your actual energy and water consumption can help you
understand how reducing energy and water usage can save you money at the end of the month. Here’s a
look at how your JEA bill breaks down line by line, based on the charges on an average residential utility
bill, what each charge means and where that money goes.
1. Customer Name
2. Account #
3. Cycle: JEA has 20 billing cycles. Each account is assigned to one of the 20 billing cycles and is
billed once a month.
4. Bill Date: This reflects the date you are billed for your services.
5. TOTAL SUMMARY OF CHARGES: This reflects the total of all the services you receive from JEA.
A complete breakdown for each of these services is listed on Page Two.
6. Message area: Check this space for important information about your account status, along with
money-saving conservation tips and updates on new power.
7. Previous Balance: This reflects the amount that was due on your account last month.
8. Payment(s) Received: This area reflects any payments received since your last bill.
9. Balance Before New Charges: This reflects the
difference between your previous balance and
payments received since your last bill.
10. New Charges: This reflects any charges that were
posted to your account for the current month.
11. Please Pay: This area reflects any past due amount, as
well as any new charges for the current month.
12. Neighbor-to-Neighbor/Prosperity Scholarship Fund
check box: Check this box if you’d like to donate to
JEA’s Neighbor-to-Neighbor program or the Prosperity
Scholarship Fund. The Neighbor-to-Neighbor program
provides financial assistance to families who find
themselves in a crisis situation and are not able to
pay their utility bill. The Prosperity Scholarship Fund
supports the community's Blueprint for Prosperity
initiatives to provide higher education and training for
workforce and economic development. Please be sure
to fill in the amount you would like to donate. This
tax-deductible amount amount will be added to your
bill each month until you tell us you no longer wish to
contribute.
13. Change of address box: Check this area if you need to
update your telephone number or address. Please be
sure to fill out the reverse side of this form with your
new telephone number or address.
1
2
3
4
5
7
8
12
9
6
10
11
13
JEA CUSTOMER EWS
21 W CHURCH ST - EWSI
JACKSONVILLE FL 32202-5336
32
17
A
B
C
E
15
19
21 W CHURCH ST - EWSI
21 W CHURCH ST - EWSI
D
F
G
H
I
18. Electric Service: You’ll find a detailed breakdown of all electrical service charges in this section:
A. Billing Rate: This refers to the rate for which you are billed. This sample customer is a
residential customer and receives Residential Electric Service.
B.Service Address: The address for which this service is being billed.
C.Service Period: The period of time you have received service during this billing cycle and for
which you are now being billed.
D.Reading Date: The date your meter was read.
E. Service Point: The actual point of service; i.e. the electric meter socket.
F. Meter Number: The unique number on your meter.
G.Days Billed: This reflects how many days for which you are being billed.
H.Current Reading: The reading on your meter on the day it was read for billing purposes.
I. Reading type:
Regular—the meter was read by the meter reader and fell within normal limits;
Estimated—the meter reader was unable to read the meter, so the reading was estimated;
Verified—the meter reading fell outside normal limits and had to be verified.
J. Meter Constant: A variable used to calculate your
true consumption.
K. Consumption: The amount of (kwh) electricity you
consumed in this billing period.
L. Electric Charges: Electrical charges for this billing
period.
A
B
M.Conservation Charge: A conservation charge of
D
C
E
$.01/kwh will appear on the bill for any residential
F
G
H
J
K
I
customer who uses greater than 2750 kwh during
that billing period.
N. City of Jacksonville Franchise Fee: Franchise fees
are charges made by governments to utilities for
exclusive/non-exclusive rights to operate within
A
B
municipal boundaries. Florida statute requires
D
C
E
franchise
fees to be charged to customers directly
F
I
G
H
J
K
and not included in rates. The City of Jacksonville
(COJ) Franchise Fee is a 3 percent fee on the
electric, water, irrigation and sewer usage of JEA
customers living in the city of Jacksonville, effective
April 1, 2008. City ordinance directs JEA to collect
the fee on behalf of the City,which receives all of
the revenue produced by the Fee. On electric usage
only: The COJ Franchise Fee is capped at $72,000
per year on electric service usage only. There is no
fee cap on any other JEA service to which the fee is
applied.
O.Gross Receipts Tax: This tax is assessed by the Florida Department of Revenue on JEA electric
revenues, as well as all other Florida electric, gas utilities, telecommunications and cable
television service.
J
K
[
[
15
20
L
21 W CHURCH ST - EWSI
18
A
B
C
E
21 W CHURCH ST - EWSI
D
F
G
H
I
J
K
[
15
15
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[
P. Public Service Tax: Is applicable to any electric service account located within the corporate
limits of Duval County. JEA collects a public service tax on any electric service it serves in the
City of Jacksonville, the City of Atlantic Beach, the Town of Baldwin, and the unincorporated
portions of Clay County. This public service tax is collected on behalf of, and remitted to, the
City of Jacksonville, the City of Atlantic Beach, the Town of Baldwin, and Clay County. The
monthly public service tax is 5 percent for Atlantic Beach, and 10 percent for Baldwin
and Jacksonville, and 4 percent for Clay County of the taxable portion of electric base revenue.
The Public Service Tax is not applicable to electric service accounts in Orange Park, St Johns
or Nassau Counties.
Q.Total Current Electric Charges: The sum of your Total Electric Charges, Conservation Charge,
City of Jacksonville Franchise Fee, Gross Receipts Tax and Public Service Tax for this billing
period.
R.Non-Taxable Fuel Amount: A cap on taxes imposed by the Florida Legislature Oct. 1973.
The Florida Legislature exempts electric customers from paying city Public Service Tax on any
increase to JEA’s cost of fuel above $.00511 per kWh. This amount is referred to as nontaxable fuel amount. To calculate non-taxable fuel amount multiply consumption i.e. kwh by
the current non-taxable fuel rate, $0.03905.
19. Irrigation Service: You’ll find a detailed breakdown of all your irrigation service charges in this
section.
A. Billing Rate: This refers to the rate for which you are billed. This sample customer is a
residential customer and receives Residential Irrigation Service.
B.Service Address: The address for which this service is being billed.
C.Service Period: The period of time you have received service during this billing cycle and for
which you are now being billed.
D.Reading Date: The date your meter was read.
E. Service Point: The actual point of service.
F. Meter Number: The unique number on your meter.
G.Days Billed: This reflects how many days for which you are being billed.
H.Current Reading: The reading on your meter on the day it was read for billing purposes.
I. Reading type:
Regular—the meter was read by the meter reader and fell within normal limits.
Estimated—the meter reader was unable to read the meter, so the reading was estimated.
Verified—the meter reading fell outside normal limits and had to be verified.
J. Meter Size: The size of your meter. Water, sewer, and irrigation charges are calculated based
on the meter size and consumption usage.
K Consumption: The amount of water used.
L. Irrigation Charges: Irrigation charges for this billing period.
M.Environmental Charge: Provides funding for specific major environmental and regulatory
programs.
N City of Jacksonville Franchise Fee: See Section 18, line N.
O.Public Service Tax: Tax by the City of Jacksonville on all water and irrigation services.
P. Total Current Irrigation Charges: The sum of your Total Irrigation Charges, City of Jacksonville
Franchise Fee and Public Service Tax for this billing period.
34
21
21 W CHURCH ST - EWSI
21 W CHURCH ST - EWSI
551.67
22
35
20. Sewer Service: You’ll find a detailed breakdown of all your sewer service charges in this section.
A. Billing Rate: This refers to the rate for which you are billed.
B.Service Address: The address for which this service is being billed.
C.Service Period: The period of time you have received service during this billing cycle and for
which you are now being billed.
D.Reading Date: The date your meter was read.
E. Service Point: The actual point of service, sometimes referred to as the water meter tap.
F. Meter Number: The unique number for your meter.
G.Days Billed: The number of days for which you are currently being billed.
H.Current Reading: The reading on your meter on the day it was read.
I. Reading type:
Regular—the meter was read by the meter reader and fell within normal limits.
Estimated—the meter reader was unable to read the meter, so the reading was estimated.
Verified—the meter reading fell outside normal limits and had to be verified.
J. Meter Size: The size of your meter.
K. Consumption: The amount of sewer treated from this service address in this billing period.
L. Sewer Charges: Sewer charges for this billing period.
M. Environmental Charge: provides funding for specific
major environmental and regulatory programs.
N. City of Jacksonville Franchise Fee: See Section 18,
line N.
O. Total Current Sewer Charges: The sum of your Total
Sewer Charges and City of Jacksonville Franchise Fee
for this billing period.
21. Water Service: You’ll find a detailed breakdown of all
your water service charges in this section.
A. Billing Rate: This refers to the rate for which you are
billed.
B. Service Address: The address for which this service is
being billed.
C. Service Period: The period of time you have received
service and are being billed.
D. Reading Date: The date your meter was read.
E. Service Point: The actual point of service; i.e.:
meter box, water or sewer tap.
F. Meter Number: The unique number on your meter.
G. Days Billed: The number of days for which you are
currently being billed.
H. Current Reading: The reading on your meter on the
day it was read for billing purposes.
I. Reading type:
Regular—the meter was read by the meter reader and
fell within normal limits.
Estimated—the meter reader was unable to read the
meter, so the reading was estimated.
Verified—the meter reading fell outside normal limits
and had to be verified.
J. Meter Size: The size of your meter.
K.Consumption: The amount of water used from this service address in this billing period.
L. Water Charges: Water charges for this billing period.
M.Environmental Charge: provides funding for specific major environmental and regulatory
programs.
N.City of Jacksonville Franchise Fee: See Section 18, line N.
O.Public Service Tax: For JEA water customers, the City of Jacksonville has assessed a 10
percent Public Service Tax on the water (not sewer) portion of the bill. JEA does not currently
serve water customers in the City of Atlantic Beach or the Town of Baldwin. The Public Service
Tax is not applicable to water service accounts in St Johns, Clay or Nassau Counties.
P. Total Current Water Charges: The sum of your Total Water Charges
22. Other Activities: You’ll find a detailed breakdown of all other activities in this section:
A. Branch Transaction Charge: A $2.00 charge will be placed on an account as a convenience
fee for making a payment, pay plan or pay arrangement in person at a JEA location, instead of
using www.JEA.com, our telephone system (IVR) or one of our third party vendors.
B.Neighbor-to-Neighbor: The Neighbor-to-Neighbor program provides financial assistance to
families who find themselves in a crisis situation and are not able to pay their utility bill. The
Prosperity Scholarship Fund supports the community's Blueprint for Prosperity initiatives to
provide higher education and training for workforce and economic development. Please be
sure to fill in the amount you would like to donate.
C.Service Address: The address for which this service is being billed.
D.Fraud Charge: A $50.00 fee shall be assessed once it has been verified that fraud has been
committed against JEA.
E. Tampering Fee: A $100.00 adjustment shall be put on an account when tampering of the
meter or service connection has been verified.
F. Same Customer Reactivation Charge: This charge is for irrigation service reactivation. A
$125.00 charge will be placed on a residential account if, within 6 months of a customer
requested disconnect, the same customer requests the service to be reconnected at
the same address.
G.Total Other Activities: The sum of total other activities.
23. Consumption History: You’ll find a detailed breakdown of consumption history in this section.
36
Appendix B – Utility Tracker
Go to jea.com and log into your account.
“Track My Usage. Lower My Bill.”
37
Click on “Bill History.”
Then click on “Basic Summary.”
38
Appendix B – Utility Tracker Continued
Use dropdown menu to change
between your water account
to your electric account.
The third column from the left
is your consumption history. You can
also click on the graph button
to get this information in an
easy to read bar graph.
39
If you click on the “My Usage” tab at the
top, a graph of your daily consumption
will appear so you can see how much
energy you are using each day. If you
double click on a bar on that graph, it
will open another graph, showing hourly
consumption for that day. (NOTE: the
hourly feature is not available to all
customers. If the hourly graph does not
open, the meter you have installed in
your home does not have that
functionality.)
40
Appendix C – Building Envelope Inspection Sheet
Air Leaks—Did you find any air leaks or holes:
Where?
At any Walls/Ceilings/Floors/Baseboards?
Around light or plumbing fixtures?
Around electrical switches or outlets?
Around HVAC supply or return vents?
Around exhaust fans or fireplaces?
Around attic access hatches or recessed light cans?
Around wall, floor, or ceiling penetrations (plumbing
or electrical pipes, ductwork)?
Around window/wall-mounted air conditioners or pet
doors?
At the joints between different types of construction?
At joints between different types of construction,
especially in attic.
Windows and Doors
Number of windows?
Thickness of windows?
Any broken latches?
Did you find window leaks? If so, where?
Are exterior doors weatherstripped?
Thresholds and door sweeps at exterior doors?
Any loose windows, doorknobs or other hardware?
(mail slots, etc.)
Description
Single Pane Double Pane Triple Pane Storm-rated
Did you find door leaks? If so, where?
Insulation
Attic insulation type?
Attic insulation thickness? R-value?
Wall insulation type?
Wall insulation thickness? R-value?
Recessed lights IC rated? (insulation covered)
Attic
Attic vents, location?
Number of blocked attic vents?
Crawlspace
Vapor barrier under flooring?
Plastic ground cover (covers every inch of dirt)?
Crawlspace / floor insulation type?
Crawlspace / floor insulation thickness?
R-value?
Exterior
How many trees/shrubs provide shade to your
home?
41
Description
Loose Fill/Batts/Styrofoam/Spray Foam
Loose Fill/Batts/Styrofoam/Spray Foam
(if not IC rated, make sure no insulation covers
these lights!)
Description
Under Eaves / Gable Ends / On Roof
(by insulation, paint, debris, etc.)
Description
Loose Fill / Batts / Styrofoam / Spray Foam
Description
Appendix D – HVAC Inspection Sheet
HEATING, AIR CONDITIONING AND VENTILATION
Heating and Cooling System
Type of system?
Year manufactured?
SEER? (energy efficiency rating)
Date filter last changed? Current status?
Date of last system service?
Daytime temperature setting? (average)
Nighttime temperature setting? (average)
Programmable thermostat?
If programmable, is it set to reflect when home is
occupied and not occupied?
Description
Date:
Status: Clean/Dirty
Summer:
Summer:
Winter:
Winter:
Do you have any space cooling? If so, how many,
where, and hours used?
(e.g., used 20 hours/week in summer)
Do you have any space heating? If so,
how many, where, and hours used?
(e.g., used 40 hours/week in winter)
Ductwork
Description
Ductwork insulated?
Ductwork mastic sealed at seams/joints?
Did you find duct leaks? If so, where?
Did you find duct crimps or restrictions?
Leaks at Supply Vents?
Supply Vents blocked/sealed? Adjustable?
Temperature at Supply Vent?
Leaks at Return Vents?
Return Vents blocked?
Temperature at Return Vent?
Exhaust Fans
Description
Working? (bath, kitchen, attic)
Vented to exterior? (bath, kitchen)
Crawlspace
Description
Plastic ground cover (covers every inch of dirt)?
Number of vent openings around crawlspace perimeter?
Number of blocked crawlspace vents? (by insulation,
debris, etc.)
Attic
Attic vents, location?
Number of blocked attic vents? (by
Description
Under Eaves / Gable Ends / On Roof
insulation, paint, debris, etc.)
42
Appendix E – Appliances and Lighting
Light bulbs
ELECTRICAL
Description
Total number inside and out?
How many are used for 2 or more hours per day?
How many are CFL or LED?
Number of recessed lights?
Lights turned off when room is empty?
Timer(s)
How many timers in use (lights, exhaust
Ceiling Fan(s)
Description
fans, etc)?
Description
How many?
Turned off when room is empty?
Photocell(s) and Motion Sensor(s)
Description
How many in use on the interior?
How many in use on the exterior?
Refrigerator(s)
How many?
Type?
Temperature?
Year manufactured?
Energy Star model?
Date refrigerator coils last cleaned?
Seal(s) tight?
Extra freezer(s)? How many?
Washer and Dryer
Year manufactured? (each)
Number gallons used by Washer?
Typical wash temperature?
Type of Dryer? (heat source)
Energy Star rated? (each)
Drying rack or clothesline in use?
Other Equipment
Number of devices plugged in 24/7?
How often do you turn off devices when
leaving the room? (TV, computer, cable box, etc.)?
43
Description
Side by side / Bottom Freezer / Top Freezer
Description
Electric/Gas
Description
Always/Sometimes/Rarely/Never
Notes
44
Notes
45
Notes
46
21 West Church Street
Jacksonville, Florida 32202-3139
jea.com