RACE READY PERFORMANCE CORVETTE C6 CUSTOM ELECTRIC CUT OUT KIT
NO WELDING or Drilled Holes Required
(Fits ALL 2005-2011 Models with 2 ½ o.d. inch exhaust with MN6 Transmission)
(additional modifications may be required on Convertibles and/or Automatic Transmisions)
Finally, an exhaust cut-out that requires NO welding and can easily be converted back to stock
exhaust in just minutes! There is no other product on the market that offers this 100% bolt on
package, complete with everything you need.
Minimal tools are required: A deep well socket set (metric/SAE), a couple of end wrenches,
and a metal cutting saw and other basic tools. That’s it! Can be done in your garage or on a
lift.
THE INSTALL: (without a lift)
Put your car on 4 Rhino Ramps (drive on either the front or rear – then use a jack to lift the car
high enough to put the other 2 ramps under either the front or rear wheels. (FIG A & B) DO
NOT ATTEMPT ANY OTHER METHOD OF PUTTING YOUR CAR OFF THE GROUND – DO
NOT USE JACKS AND JACKSTANDS! DO NOT USE “HOMEBUILT” ANYTHING! No 2x12’s
stacked, no cinder blocks, or any other Rube Goldberg contraption! THIS IS YOUR LIFE
UNDER YOUR CAR. IF IT FALLS, YOU DIE – GAME OVER
This step’s goal is to remove the H pipe from the car
Start at the rear of the car and loosen the exhaust clamps (2) where the mufflers join the “H”
pipe. *NOTE- the mufflers are NOT removed! No need to take the nuts all the way off.
LIBERALLY use WD40 on all clamps, bolts and nuts. (See Fig 1)
Next – Remove 2 nuts on the “Spring Hangars” located just aft of the tunnel plate (about the
middle of the car). (See Fig 2)
Next, remove 2 nuts on each of the 2 header flanges; carefully remove the gaskets then
disconnect the H pipe from the Collector Flanges, and place on the ground. (See Fig 3)
Try to get some WD40 on the connection of the mufflers to the H pipe…let soak a few minutes.
Try spreading that clamp some to allow penetration of WD40 into that union. Start wiggling and
twisting the H pipe as much as necessary to separate the H pipe from the muffler connection on
both sides – this may take some effort and assistance if you have it. The goal is to completely
remove the H pipe from the car. If needed, use a wood block and large hammer and hit hard on
the retaining clamp may help. (This is bar far the hardest step of the entire process)
Once disconnected, slide the entire pipe from under the car to get in a position to measure and cut about
a 10 inch section of the H pipe off.
The next step’s goal is to measure, cut , and ready the H pipe for the Y pipe
With the H pipe free and clear of the rear of the car, lay the Y pipes on top of the H pipe (make sure to
use correct Y pipe on each side (the cutout flange faces inwards) This is a Measure TWICE and cut once
procedure! Using a black Sharpie pen, mark where the cut is to be made on each of the two H pipe
sections. (Fig 5)
Using a Sawzall, Hack Saw, or Angle grinder, CUT off the H pipe where marked on both sides. Use a file,
wire brush on a drill or coarse sandpaper to get rid of any rough edges. Make SURE your cuts are
perpendicular to the pipe at 90 degree angles! Mark those parts of the exhaust pipe RIGHT and LEFT
with a Sharpie and put aside (store in a safe location. It you ever want to go back to stock, you will need
that section of pipe and the clamp)
The next step’s goal is to RE-install the H pipe and pre-fit the Y pipe in place
Slide the H pipe back underneath the car and LOOSELY re-connect the header flanges and spring
hangar brackets. Make sure all is lined up properly and everything is equal and straight.
Slide a heavy duty clamp onto the Y pipe or muffler exhaust pipe. (Fig 6) Take either R or L side Y pipe
and slide the flared end over that part of the exhaust pipe that goes to goes to the mufflers. (DO NOT
tighten clamps yet) Loosely assemble the band clamps and slide those over the H pipe on each side.
Rotate and position the Y pipe until satisfied all lines up properly. That part of the Y pipe where the cutout
attaches should be horizontal to the plane of the car (not facing down or up). Snug up, but DO NOT
TIGHTEN each of the clamps on both sides. (Fig 7)
Take the RaceReady cutout and hold in position with the motor and gearbox facing UP so as to get an
idea how these are to be connected to the flange on the Y pipe. Once held in position by hand about
where it will be attached, make a mark with a Sharpie on both the cutout and flange for reference. (Fig 8)
REMOVE each Y pipe by sliding the clamps off each end, and slide the flared part of the Y pipe off the
exhaust pipe going to the mufflers.
Next step’s goal is to bolt cutouts in place then make final assembly
Take each Y pipe and electric cutout and line up the marks then assemble the cutout to the Y pipe flange
making SURE to place an exhaust gasket between the flange and cutout. Using the 3 bolts and nuts,
moderately tighten into place. Put each assembled Y pipe back on as you did during the initial fitment
part above using the band clamps and heavy duty clamp on the flared end of each Y pipe.
Make your FINAL check that the Y pipes are horizontal to the plane of the car / ground. Check for
clearance between Y pipe and cutout so if clears the transmission and the side of the car. Once
satisfied, start tightening, constantly checking that nothing moves. By now, ALL clamps should be tight
as you can get them between the Y pipe and H pipe as well as Y pipe and rear exhaust coupling. The
cutouts DO NOT NEED to be fully tightened yet (makes it a lot easier to pull the wiring, connect, then
install and do final tighten of the electric cutout to the Y pipe flange.
NOW – GO BACK AND FULLY TIGHTEN THE SPRING HANGAR NUTS AND ALL FOUR
HEADER/COLLECTOR NUTS. MAKE SURE ALL BOLTS ARE TIGHT – REALLY TIGHT! (Fig 9)
THIS COMPLETES THE HARDWARE INSTALL
ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
Remove or Partially Remove the Center Console ** Note – This applies to a C6 with MANUAL (MN6)
Transmission. Convertibles and/or Automatics may involve additional steps. The goal is to access the
Shifter Boot, remove 4 nuts to expose the shifter assembly and tunnel plate. (Fig 10)
Here is a Bookmark Link reference to assist in removing console. (Only use the info short of removing
radio)
LINK: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-corvette-general-discussion/1490531-c6-install-avn6600-fullwrite-up-w-pics.html
Use about a 4 or 5 foot long piece of stiff heavy gauge wire (12 ga romex will work, or similar) and feed it
facing back into the open area of the tunnel plate until it comes out underneath the car between the
tunnel plate and torque tube. Use this as a fish for pulling the wiring harness from inside the car to the
rear for connection to the cutouts. (Fig 11)
Once both connectors are hanging, route them up and over the transmission down to the cutouts and
make plug in the connectors to the cutouts- Make sure they ‘click’ into place. Use tie wraps to remove
most of the slack and tie off the wiring cable so it is nowhere near the heat source of the exhaust system.
Continue working backwards to the tunnel plate removing slack and tie wraps to secure the cables.
(Fig 12)
Inside the car – pull up all the slack cable to the inside of the car. CUT a notch in the Shift Boot Plate so
the wires are not pinched when you re connect the shifter boot using the 4 nuts to secure it. Route the
remaining wire someplace out of the way tucking it in wherever you can find room. Keep the connector
close to where the switch will be mounted. (Fig 13, 14, 15)
If only using the switch and NOT the remote control module, hide all the wiring, replace the console then
wire to an electrical source in the footwell fuse box using an “Add-a-tap” connector - this can either be
‘hot’ all the time or on a switched circuit (use the fuse box diagram to locate the best place to add the
“Add-a-Fuse”) – Ground the black wire to complete the circuit. (Fig 16, 17)
TEST TO MAKE SURE all is working correctly Finish cleaning up the routing of the wires and mount the switch. This is all unless you are adding in the
REMOTE CONTROL UNIT - If adding the Remote – Follow directions on the instruction sheet, then find
a suitable location to place the remote control box.
Test again to confirm all is working correctly.
JOB DONE!
ENJOY YOUR CUTOUTS!