FASHIONS: Business Practices in Historical Perspective Joint Annual Meeting of the Business History Conference and of the European Business History Association 11-13 June 2009 Università Bocconi, Milan Program Our partners EBHA BUSINESS HISTORY CONFERENCE European Business History Association Contents Acknowledgements ...................................................................................................................... 3 Business History Conference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 European Business History Association . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Practical Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 The Program at a Glance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Detailed Program . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Eating and Drinking in Milan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 1 Acknowledgements SPONSORING INSTITUTION Università Bocconi PROGRAM COMMITTEE Francesca Polese (Chair), Università Bocconi Regina Lee Blaszczyk (Co-chair), University of Pennsylvania & Hagley Museum and Library Franco Amatori, Università Bocconi Per Boje (EBHA President), University of Southern Denmark Albert Carreras, Universitat Pompeu Fabra Jeff Fear, University of Redlands Ellen Hartigan-O’Connor, University of California, Davis Elisabetta Merlo, Università Bocconi Mark Rose (BHC President), Florida Atlantic University 2 LOCAL ARRANGEMENTS Veronica Binda, Università Bocconi Laura Devalba, Events and Ceremonies Office, Università Bocconi Giovanna Di Martino, Università Bocconi Elisabetta Merlo, Università Bocconi Francesca Polese, Università Bocconi Simona Prandini, Events and Ceremonies Office, Università Bocconi CONFERENCE COORDINATION Patricia Denault, Harvard University Carol Lockman, Hagley Museum and Library PARTNERS Comune di Milano Campari Fashion Institute of Technology Imprese e Storia Oxford University Press, Journals Division Routledge 3 Business History Conference Founded in 1954, the Business History Conference is an international academic association based in the United States which is devoted to promoting the study of business history, broadly defined. It holds an annual meeting, publishes both Enterprise & Society: The International Journal of Business History through Oxford University Press and the e-journal Business and Economic History, and sponsors several prizes that recognize outstanding work in the field. It also supports graduate student attendance at its annual meetings through its Alfred D. Chandler, Jr. fund and sponsors a dissertation colloquium for PhD candidates who are commencing their dissertations. Read more at www.thebhc.org BHC Board of Trustees, 2008-2009 OFFICERS Steven Tolliday (President-elect), University of Leeds Mark Rose (President), Florida Atlantic University Pamela Laird (Past-President), University of Colorado, Denver Roger Horowitz (Secretary Treasurer), Hagley Museum and Library TRUSTEES Christopher Kobrak, ESCP-EAP Duncan Ross, University of Glasgow R. Daniel Wadhwani, University of the Pacific 4 Lisa Jacobson, University of California, Santa Barbara Francesca Carnevali, University of Birmingham Peter Coclanis, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill Marina Moskowitz, University of Glasgow Robert E. Weems, University of Missouri, Columbia Christine Rosen, University of California, Berkeley Colleen Dunlavy, University of Wisconsin, Madison David Kirsch, University of Maryland, College Park Jeff Fear, University of Redlands PAST PRESIDENT ON BOARD Will Hausman, College of William and Mary Future BHC Meetings 2010: Athens, Georgia, 25 – 27 March, University of Georgia Conference Center 2011: St. Louis, Missouri, 31 March– 2 April, Hyatt Regency Riverfront 2012: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 29 – 31 March, Hyatt Regency Penn’s Landing 2009 Oxford Journals Doctoral Colloquium in Business History participants Originating as the Newcomen Society Doctoral Colloquium in Business History, this intensive one-day session is now generously supported by the Journals Division of Oxford University Press. Limited to ten students in the early stages of their dissertation research, participants work closely with a small, distinguished group of BHC-affiliated scholars, including at least two of its officers. The assembled scholars and students review dissertation proposals, consider relevant literatures and research strategies, and discuss the business history profession. Francesca Ammon, Yale University Knut-Erland Berglund, Uppsala University Christy Chapin, University of Virginia Ari de Wilde, The Ohio State University Georgina Gajewski, University of North Carolina Shennette Garrett, University of Texas, Austin Emily L. Martz, University of Delaware Drew J. Meyers, University of Michigan Laura Phillips, University of Virginia Lee Vinsel, Carnegie Mellon University 2008 Contributors to the Alfred D. Chandler Jr. Fund Some years ago a group of Alfred D. Chandler Jr.’s friends and colleagues created a fund to honor his contributions and to further the study of business history, principally by helping developing scholars take part in the activities of the Business History Conference. We wish to recognize the contributions in 2008 that have helped to support travel grants to more than 50 graduate students presenting papers at the 2009 joint meeting of the BHC and EBHA. First Movers Henry duPont Mark Rose Richard Sylla CEOs Richard John JoAnne Yates Mary Yeager Traditional Enterprises Stephen Adams Gerben Bakker Mark Billings Veronica Binda Per Boje Hubert Bonin John K. Brown Marcelo Bucheli Ludovic Cailluet Steven Campbell Albert Carreras Middle Managers Charles W. Cheape William R. Childs Peter Coclanis Naomi Lamoreaux Kenneth Lipartito Rowena Olegario 5 Adriana Castagnoli Christopher Castaneda Christy Chapin Duncan-Philip Connors Jonathan Coopersmith James Cortada Lynne P. Doti Colleen Dunlavy Stephanie Dyer Melissa Fisher Daniel Forbes Karen Freeze Nicholas Gaffney Margaret B. W. Graham Per Hansen Carol E. Heim Christienne Hinz Daniel Holbrook D.G. Brian Jones Christopher Kobrak Pamela Laird Eric Lampard Susan Lewis Thorsten Luebbers J. Carles Maixé-Altés Michelle McDonald Christopher McKenna Merck Partnership for Giving Michael Moeller Bethany Moreton Henry V. Nelles Lucy Newton Mary O’Sullivan Julia Ott Francesca Polese Daniel Pope Joseph Pratt James Reveley Lucas Richert Hugh Rockoff Christine Rosen Andrew K. Sandoval-Strausz Corinna Schlombs Paul Schmitz David B. Sicilia Andrew Smith Michael Smitka Daniel Solarz Anna Spadavecchia Howard Stanger Jeffrey L. Sturchio Kevin Tennent Steven Tolliday Niels-Henrik Topp Daniel Wadhwani Jocelyn Wills Mark Wilson Shennette Garrett, University of Texas, Austin Sabine Ichikawa, École des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales Kristoffer Jensen, University of Southern Denmark Soojeong Kang, London School of Economics Alper Kayhan, University of Sheffield Tess Koncick, Florida State University Morten Lind Larsen, Copenhagen Business School Thierry Maillet, École des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales Leandie Maritz, University of Johannesburg Emily Martz, University of Delaware Francisco J. Medina-Albaladejo, University of Murcia Laura Milanes, State University of New York, Albany María Fernández Moya, Universidad Complutense de Madrid Inga Nuhn, Westfälische WilhelmsUniversität Tomoko Okawa, Tokyo Metropolitan University Birgit Lyngbye Pedersen, Copenhagen Business School Jason Petrulis, Columbia University Laura Phillips, University of Virginia Eline Poelmans, Catholic University of Leuven Lilia Raquel D. Rosas, University of Texas, Austin Christoffer Rydland, Stockholm School of Economics Bogday Saygili, Gazi University Sarah Scaturro, Fashion Institute of Technology Janneken Smucker, University of Delaware Kevin D. Tennent, London School of Economics Francesca Tesi, Université de ParisSorbonne Ingrid Thorius, University of Johannesburg Kim Todt, Cornell University Benjamin C. Waterhouse, Harvard University Leah Wright, Princeton University Yuki Yamauchi, Hitotsubashi University 2009 Alfred D. Chandler, Jr. Travel Grant Recipients 6 Neveen Abdelreheim, York Management School Joseph Arena, The Ohio State University Lynn Barnes, West Virginia University Goran Bergstrom, Uppsala University Marco Bertilorenzi, Université de ParisSorbonne Andrew D. A. Bozanic, University of Delaware Simon Bishop, University of Nottingham Loubna Bouamane, Louisiana State University Rafael Castro Balaguer, Universidad Complutense de Madrid Christy Chapin, University of Virginia Sule Civitci, Gazi University Esen Coruh, Gazi University Robert Denning, The Ohio State University Elizabeth Field, University of Leeds Courtney Fullilove, Columbia University Michael Funke, Uppsala University Emma Hogg, University of Leeds Kajsa Holmberg, Lund University Stephanie Holyfield, University of Delaware 7 Call for Papers: Business History Conference Annual Meeting Athens, Georgia, 25-27 March 2010 The Business History of Everything Business history for many years was primarily associated with the study of firms and formal business institutions. Recently its scope has widened drastically to include a far greater diversity of economic institutions and practices. It is now widely accepted that Business History is not just about the history of businesses. One of the driving ideas behind the foundation of the BHC journal Enterprise & Society (reflected in the choice of name) was that business historians now had to grapple with much more fluid ideas of what ‘business’ was and draw on a new range of concepts and approaches to deal with this. There are in fact a very wide range of human enterprises that can usefully be conceptualized as ‘businesses’ (the organization of production and services for use and gain) and ‘business history’ provides approaches and methodologies for the historical analysis of economic and social institutions that can be applied across a huge range of fields. Work that has been primarily conceptualized in different scholarly discourses can be examined (sometimes against the grain) from a ‘business history’ perspective often with interesting or provocative implications. Just a few examples discussed in Enterprise & Society in the last few years include: the marketplace of Christianity; the culture and commerce of chewing gum; intellectual property law and musical creativity; the commercial aspects of cultural practices; and business histories of murder, sport, holidays, childhood, hunger, war, retirement, sex, fraud, sickness and beauty. However, as yet, only a limited amount of these types of studies have been fully presented directly at the annual meetings of the Business History Conference. The Conference theme of ‘The Business History of Everything’ aims to highlight the dual themes of widening the scope of business history and using its insights to re-vision many cognate areas of historical study. It also seeks to highlight the integration of the methods and practices of business history with other scholarly discourses and aims to stimulate fruitful encounters and interactions and help widen frames of reference and make kindred sub-disciplines more aware of the insights that a ‘business history’ angle on their problems might generate. Also, in light of the current global economic crisis we would particularly welcome papers on the impact of ruptures and breakdowns, destruction and reconstruction in business history. Finally, in recognition of Barack Obama’s first year as the first black President of the United 8 States, we intend to feature a major sub-theme on race and ethnicity in business history, including a projected plenary on ‘African American and Ethnic Business History’ and a series of related panels. Alongside this, as always, the BHC program committee will also be pleased to entertain submissions not directly related to the conference themes. Potential presenters may submit proposals either for individual papers or for entire panels. Individual paper or poster proposals should include a one-page abstract and a one-page curriculum vitae (CV). Each panel proposal should include a cover letter stating the rationale for the session, the name of the panel’s contact person, a one-page abstract and author’s CV for each proposed paper (up to three), and a list of preferred chairs and commentators with contact information. Proposals also are invited for the Herman E. Krooss Prize for the best dissertation in business history. The Krooss Prize Committee welcomes submissions from recent PhDs (2007-09) in his- tory, economics, business administration, history of science and technology, law, and related fields. To participate in this competition, please indicate so in a cover letter, and include a onepage CV and one-page dissertation abstract. Semi-finalists will be asked to submit copies of their dissertation after initial review of proposals. Finalists will present summaries of their dissertations at the Athens meeting. BHC also awards the K. Austin Kerr Prize for the best first paper by a PhD candidate or recent PhD (2007-09). If you wish to participate in this competition, please indicate so in your proposal. Proposals accepted for the Krooss Prize panel are not eligible for the Kerr Prize. The deadline for receipt of all proposals is 1 October 2009. Notification of acceptances will be sent by 15 December 2009. Presenters will be expected to submit abstracts of their papers for posting on the BHC website. In addition, presenters are encouraged to post electronic versions of their papers prior to the meeting, and to submit their papers for inclusion in our on-line proceedings publication, Business and Economic History On-Line. The BHC also offers grants to graduate students who are presenting papers to offset some of the costs of attending the conference; an announcement of application procedures will be sent to those presenting papers at the meeting. Please send all proposals to BHC2010@Hagley.org. Hard copies may be sent or faxed to: Dr. Roger Horowitz, Secretary-Treasurer, Business History Conference, P.O. Box 3630, Wilmington, DE 19807, USA. Phone: +1 (302) 658-2400; fax: +1 (302) 655-3188. The program committee is: Jeff Fear (chair), University of Redlands; Sally Clarke, University of Texas; Tracey Deutsch, University of Minnesota; Robert Weems, University of Missouri; Shane Hamilton, University of Georgia; Steven Tolliday (BHC President-elect), University of Leeds. The Business History Conference Dissertation Colloquium will be held in conjunction with 9 the 2010 BHC annual meeting. This intensive workshop, sponsored by BHC, will take place at the conference venue Wednesday evening, 24 March, and Thursday, 25 March. Participants will work closely with a small, distinguished group of BHC-affiliated scholars, including at least two of its officers. The assembled scholars and students will review dissertation proposals, consider relevant literatures and research strategies, and discuss the business history profession. Limited to ten students, it is intended for doctoral candidates in the early stages of their dissertation projects. Those interested in participating should submit a statement of interest, a preliminary or final dissertation prospectus, and a CV, and must arrange for a letter of support from your dissertation supervisor (or prospective supervisor). All application materials should be sent to Roger Horowitz by 1 December, 2009, via email BHC2010@Hagley.org or fax 302-655-3188. All participants will receive a stipend that will partially cover costs associated with attending. The review committee will notify all applicants of its decisions by January 15. European Business History Association Call for Papers: European Business History Association Conference 26-28 August 2010 University of Glasgow, Centre for Business History in Scotland EBHA was established at the end of 1994 as the professional body for individuals interested in the development of business and management in Europe from the earliest times to the present day. The association aims to promote research, teaching and general awareness of all aspects of European business and management history. It intends to create a network of information and to encourage collaboration through shared and comparative projects and scholarships as well as the exchange of graduate students. Read more at: www.ebha.org Business beyond the Firm Business people routinely move from firm to firm, but they also frequently move into – or sometimes create – organizations located outside the world of the private profit-seeking firm, ones linked to politics, government, education, health care, philanthropy, religion, promotion of trade, and other pursuits. Movement in the opposite direction is also possible, not least owing to the fact that many of these other organizations share many of the core characteristics of the private firm, including close connection to the broader economy; undertaking manufacturing; providing services; and/or investing, selling, and employing (sometimes large numbers of) personnel. In other words, these organizations often carry out the functions and tasks associated with any business, as do most state-owned enterprises, although their main purpose is usually not to make a profit but to achieve other aims (generally while at the same time breaking even financially). As its main theme, this conference will explore the interrelationships between business practice, the firm, and the business entrepreneur on the one hand and the actors, organizations, and institutions of the broader social and political environment on the other. EBHA Council Members President: Per Boje, University of Southern Denmark, Denmark (retires 2009) Vice-President: Albert Carreras, Universitat Pompeu Fabra, Spain (retires 2009) Treasurer: Andrea Schneider, Gesellschaft für Unternehmensgeschichte, Germany Secretary: Raymond Stokes, University of Glasgow, Scotland Other Council Members Youssef Cassis, University of Geneva, Switzerland Per H. Hansen, Copenhagen Business School, Denmark Andrea Colli, Università Bocconi, Italy Joost Dankers, Universiteit Utrecht, The Netherlands Margarita Dritsas, Hellenic Open University, Patras, Greece Susanna Fellmann, University of Helsinki, Finland Harm G. Schröter, University of Bergen, Norway John Wilson, University of Central Lancashire, United Kingdom 10 Future EBHA Conferences 2010: Glasgow, 26-28 August, Glasgow University, Centre for Business History in Scotland 2011: Athens 2012: Paris Specific questions to be addressed in particular national, regional, local, and/or comparative contexts might include the following: > What constitutes entrepreneurship and/or efficiency outside the context of the private profit-seeking firm? > To what extent and how does pursuit of primary aims other than profit (e.g. promotion of trade, provision of health care to the poor, more equitable distribution of goods regardless of income, and so on) affect the nature and practices of organizations beyond the firm? > To what extent must business people moving into organizations beyond the firm change their ways of doing things, and vice versa? > What is the relationship between entrepreneurship and philanthropy? 11 > How have business people and their behavior, attitudes, and demeanors affected the structures, strategies, and practices of organizations beyond the firm? > How have the interrelationships between business and other organizations affected the structures, strategies, and practices of the firm? > How do business leaders use non-profit-making activities outside the firm to advance their own entrepreneurial activity through sponsorship, charitable donations, and other measures to create goodwill? > What impacts have charitable organizations created by business people or companies had on scientific, technological, and economic development – indeed on the development of business and entrepreneurship – in particular countries/regions? > What are the limits of the interchangeability between business practice and that required in the environment beyond the firm? Practical Information > What are the organizational and other effects when business people become politicians or vice versa? > Are some national or regional governance structures, business networks, and/or systems of innovation more conducive than others to fostering movement and mutual learning between business and organizations beyond the firm than others, and, if so, why? > In what ways has the extent and/or quality of such movement and learning changed through time? Proposals for papers and/or sessions related to the theme of the conference are especially welcome, although paper and/or session proposals not directly related to it will also be considered. For paper proposals, please submit a title and abstract of up to one A4 page along with a onepage CV to ebha2010proposals@lbss.gla.ac.uk. Session proposals should include a brief abstract of the session along with a one-page abstract and a one-page CV for each participant. Deadline for all proposals is 31 January 2010. EBHA Dissertation Prize 2010 Every two years, the EBHA awards a prize for the best dissertation in business history submitted to a European university in the previous two years. The next EBHA prize will be presented at the 2010 meeting in Glasgow, and it is sponsored by the Centre for Business History in Scotland and the William Lind Foundation. Dissertations submitted before the end of December 2009 will be eligible. Eligible dissertations may be in any European language. Three finalists will be selected from the dissertations submitted for consideration, and the authors will be invited to give a presentation at a plenary session at the Glasgow meeting. All three finalists will be eligible for reimbursement of part of their travel costs. In addition, the prizewinner will receive EUR 300 and a certificate. 12 The procedures for submission of dissertations and the criteria for eligibility and selection will be circulated widely by the end of the summer 2009, and will be available on the conference web site: http://www.gla.ac.uk/departments/businesshistory/ebha2010/ All concurrent sessions will take place in the rooms on the first floor of the building located at Piazza Sraffa 13. The Grand Opening on Thursday and the plenary sessions on Friday will instead take place in the auditorium (“Aula Magna”) in the building of Via Gobbi 5. Finally, auxiliary sessions and events, including the BHC Presidential Address, the Chandler Reception and the Gala Dinner, will be held in Via Röntgen 1 building. Coffee breaks and lunches will be served on the Ground Floor of Piazza Sraffa 13. The Business Historians at Business Schools Lunch on Friday and the Women in Business History Lunch on Saturday will be served in the Via Röntgen 1 building (floor -2). The sealed envelope contains your payment receipt and the token that you must exhibit at the Gala Dinner on Saturday. Inside your conference badge you will find a small map that will help you find your way to the campus buildings we will be using (the map also provides emergency numbers). All events will also be signposted throughout the campus, while there will be staff available to provide directions. The only event that will take place outside the campus is the “Emerging Scholars Reception” on Friday evening. The venue (Restaurant Volo, Viale Beatrice d’Este 40) is only a few blocks from Bocconi. We will have groups leaving from the registration desk (Piazza Sraffa 13) at 7:15pm. Please note that at the Emerging Scholars Reception each participant is entitled to a free drink (please exhibit the plastic token that you must pick up at the registration desk on Friday morning) and to the finger food buffet. All drinks after the first one will have to be paid. Wireless internet connection is available throughout the campus. To set up your computer please follow the instructions that are provided in your conference package. A computer room (with desktop computers connected to internet and a printer) will be available for conference participants on the ground floor of the Piazza Sraffa 13 building (room INFO N04) Thursday and Friday from 4:00pm to 7:00 pm and Saturday from 12:00pm to 2:30pm. Please keep in mind 13 that there is a limitation to the number of pages that can be printed. A luggage deposit is available upon request at the registration desk. The Program at a Glance WEDNESDAY 10 JUNE 8:30am-4:15pm Oxford Journals Doctoral Colloquium 3:00-6:00pm Registration 4:00-8:00pm BHC Trustee Meeting Via Röntgen 1 Piazza Sraffa 13 Via Röntgen 1 THURSDAY 11 JUNE 8:00am-6:00pm 8:00am-6:00pm 9:00-10:30am 10:30-11:00am 11:00am-12:30pm 12:30-2:00pm 12:30-4:00pm 2:00-3:30pm 3:30-4:00pm 4:00-5:30pm 5:45-7:00pm 7:00-8:00pm Registration Book Exhibit Concurrent Sessions 1 Coffee break Concurrent Sessions 2 Lunch EBHA Council Meeting Concurrent Sessions 3 Coffee break Concurrent Sessions 4 Concurrent Sessions 5 Grand Opening Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Via Röntgen 1 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Via Gobbi 5 Registration Book Exhibit Concurrent Sessions 6 Coffee break FIT Exhibit Krooss Prize Dissertation Session Lunch Business Historians at Business Schools Lunch Concurrent Sessions 7 Coffee break FIT Exhibit EBHA Plenary: Fashion and Fashions between Business and Creativity Concurrent Sessions 8 Emerging Scholars Reception Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Via Gobbi 5 Via Gobbi 5 Via Gobbi 5 Piazza Sraffa 13 Via Röntgen 1 Piazza Sraffa 13 Via Gobbi 5 Via Gobbi 5 FRIDAY 12 JUNE 8:00am-6:00pm 8:00am-6:00pm 8:30-10:30am 10:30-11:00am 10:30-11:00am 11:00am-12:30pm 12:30-2:00pm 14 12:30-2:00pm 2:00-3:30pm 3:30-4:00pm 3:30-4:00pm 4:00-5:30pm 5:45-7:00pm 7:30-9:00pm Via Gobbi 5 Piazza Sraffa 13 Restaurant Volo SATURDAY 13 JUNE 8:00am-3:00pm 8:00am-3:00pm 8:30-10:30am 10:30-11:00am 11:00am-12:30pm 12:30-2:00pm 12:30-2:00pm 2:00-3:30pm 3:30-4:00pm 4:00-4:30pm 4:30-5:30pm 4:30-5:30pm 5:30-6:15pm 6:30-7:45pm 8:00pm Registration Book Exhibit Concurrent Sessions 9 Coffee break Concurrent Sessions 10 Lunch Women in Business History Lunch Concurrent Sessions 11 Coffee break Book Auction BHC General Meeting EBHA General Meeting BHC Presidential Address: The Politics of Rescuing Financial Institutions, 2008-2009 Chandler Reception (BHC Award Ceremony) Gala Dinner Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Via Röntgen 1 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Piazza Sraffa 13 Via Röntgen 1 Via Röntgen 1 Via Röntgen 1 15 Detailed Program WEDNESDAY 10 JUNE 8:30am-4:15pm Oxford Journals Doctoral Colloquium Via Röntgen, Rooms 3-C4-SR01 and 3-D3-SR01 (3rd floor) 3:00-6:00pm Registration Piazza Sraffa 13 4:00-8:00pm BHC Trustee Meeting Via Röntgen 1, Room 3-B3-SR01 (3rd floor) THURSDAY 11 JUNE 8:00am-6:00pm Registration Piazza Sraffa 13 Book Exhibit Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-9 Fashion Institute of Technology Exhibit “Beauty, Brains, Bergdorf’s, and Bytes: The Collective Memory of Art, Design, Business, 16 and Technology in FIT’s Department of Special Collections and Archives” Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-9 9:00-10:30am: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 1 | 1.A | Social Outsiders, Separate Economies, Crossover Markets: Two Centuries of Cultural Expressions in American Fashion Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Roderick McDonald, Rider University Discussant: Mary Yeager, University of California, Los Angeles Fashions in the Sex Industry in the Long Nineteenth Century: From Street Hooker to Brothels Lilia Raquel D. Rosas, University of Texas at Austin “Such Women as You Are Raised Up to Save Us”: The Business of Race and Femininity among Black Women Dressmakers in the Early 1900s Shennette M. Garrett, University of Texas at Austin African American Hip Hop Fashion Industry Entrepreneurs: Commodifying Black Culture, Building Joint Venture Conglomerates Juliet E. K. Walker, University of Texas at Austin | 1.B | Federalism in Business History Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 Chair: William Becker, George Washington University Discussant: William Becker, George Washington University From Shreveport to Phillips to Preemption: Pragmatic Federalism and Regulation in the United States in the Twentieth Century William Childs, The Ohio State University American Federalism: Design and Impact on Public Policy toward Business David Brian Robertson, University of Missouri, St. Louis Corporations and Chain Stores: Understanding the Nuances of Federalism in the United States and Germany at the Turn of the Twentieth Century Colleen Dunlavy, University of Wisconsin, Madison U.S. Electric Utility Rate Regulation and Competition at the Beginning of the Twentieth and Twenty-First Centuries William Hausman, College of William and Mary John Kelly, American Public Power Association John L. Neufeld, University of North Carolina, Greensboro | 1.C | Innovation in the Business of Fashion, 1900-1940 Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 Chair: Dilys Blum, Philadelphia Museum of Art Discussant: Francesca Polese, Università Bocconi International Couture: Expansion and Promotion in the Early Twentieth Century Lourdes M. Font, Fashion Institute of Technology 17 Retailing Innovation: The Origins of Contemporary Merchandising in an Edwardian Couture House Lewis Orchard, Independent Scholar Making a Name for Themselves: Promotion and Self-Promotion of Designing Women Rebecca Jumper Matheson, Independent Scholar The Limits of Expansion: Contraction and Collapse in the Haute Couture, 1920-1940 Molly Sorkin, Fashion Institute of Technology All That Was Solid: Learning the Lessons of Corporate Cadavers in Silicon Valley David Kirsch, University of Maryland To Design for the Future You Must Leaf Through the Past: Museums as Part of Systems of Innovation Mary Rose, Lancaster University Lorraine Johnston, Lancaster University | 1.D | From a Tool to a Marketplace: The Evolution of Company Benefit Fashions in Great Britain and the United States, 1802-1990s Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 | 1.F | The Essence of Fashion Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Jonathan Russ, University of Delaware Discussant: Janice Traflet, Bucknell University Chair: Elisabetta Merlo, Università Bocconi Discussant: Patricia A. Cunningham, The Ohio State University Something More: Loyalty and Efficiency at Joseph Bancroft & Sons Co., 1905-1933 Stephanie Holyfield, University of Delaware The Economic Impact of the Catwalk: A Historical Perspective of the Fashion Show and Its Current Economic Value to Global Fashion Centers Donna W. Reamy, Virginia Commonwealth University Retirement Planning, Pension Reform, and the Mutual Fund Industry in the United States from World War II to 1986 Emily Martz, University of Delaware 18 Designing a Genre: An Organizational Perspective on the Rise of Comic-Book Films Ralph Maurer, Louisiana State University Xavier Jouvin: Fashioning the Glove, Fashioning the Female Hand Ariel Beaujot, Laurentian University Labor’s Love for Benefits Lost: The 1950s Battle Over Healthcare Provision in the US Auto Industry Michael Smitka, Washington and Lee University Modeling Blackness in Civil Rights America Elspeth H. Brown, University of Toronto Co-operation à la Mode: Fashionability, Workers, and the Co-operative Movement in Britain Peter Wardley, University of the West of England 10:30-11:00am Coffee break Piazza Sraffa 13, Ground Floor | 1.E | Artifacts, Organizations and Institutions: Circulation, Preservation and Management of Embedded Corporate Resources Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 11:00am-12:30pm: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 2 Chair: Donald C. Jackson, Lafayette College Discussant: Michelle Craig McDonald, Stockton College Corporate Museums and Organizational Institutionalization Davide Ravasi, Università Bocconi Violina Rindova, University of Texas at Austin Ileana Stigliani, Università Bocconi | 2.A | Roundtable: Business History Job Market (Sponsored by the BHC Emerging Scholars Committee/Organizers) Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Anna Spadavecchia, University of Reading Discussant: The Audience Albert Carreras, Universitat Pompeu Fabra Alexander Engel, University of Göttingen Sheldon Hochheiser, Rutgers University 19 Kurt Jacobsen, Copenhagen Business School Christopher McKenna, Oxford University Francesca Polese, Università Bocconi Dan Wadwhani, University of the Pacific | 2.B | Making an Impression Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 Chair: Lesley K. Whitworth, Brighton University Discussant: Emanuela Scarpellini, Università degli Studi di Milano “Practically the Uniform of the Tribe”: Dress Codes among Commercial Travelers Andrew Popp, University of Liverpool Michael French, University of Glasgow “Gee! I Wish I Were a Man”: The Christy Girl Joins the Navy M. Lynn Barnes, West Virginia University Creating Images of Fashion: Consumer Magazines in Britain and the United States, 1900-1950 Howard Cox, University of Worcester Simon Mowatt, University of Auckland The Business of Fashion on Film Jill Fields, California State University, Fresno 20 Charting the History of Corporate Social Responsibility in America Kenneth Lipartito, Florida International University | 2.D | From Manufacturing to Fashion: Textile and Shoemaking Clusters in Spain Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 Chair: Franco Amatori, Università Bocconi Discussant: John Wilson, University of Liverpool International Competitiveness and Technological Innovation in the Fashion Market: The Case of Inditex Holding, 1988-2007 Luis Alonso, Universidad da Coruña Fashion and Competitiveness in the Catalan Knitting Districts, 1961-2004 Montserrat Llonch, Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona Competing in Fashion Goods: Firms and Industrial Districts in the Development of the Spanish Shoemaking Industry Carles Manera, Universitat de les Illes Balears José Antonio Miranda, Universidad de Alicante Ramon Molina, Universitat de les Illes Balears The Origins of Made in Spain Fashion. Hub-Firm Clusters and Industrial Districts in Textiles, Clothing, and Shoemaking since the Golden Age Jordi Catalan, Universitat de Barcelona Ramon Ramon-Munoz, Universitat de Barcelona | 2.C | The Responsible Corporation: International Perspectives on the BusinessSociety Relationship Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 | 2.E | Fashion Marketing and Business Strategies Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Chair: Jeffrey Fear, University of Redlands Discussant: Jennifer Delton, Skidmore College Chair: Adrienne Sockwell, University of Texas at Austin Discussant: Ingrid Giertz-Mårtenson, Centre for Business History, Stockholm The Unique Role of Shibusawa Ei’ichi in the History of Japanese Business Ethics Masato Kimura, Shibusawa Eiichi Memorial Foundation Nineteenth-Century Fashion Illustration: A Genealogical Approach to the Marketing of Lifestyle Jillian Taylor Lerner, University of British Columbia The Humanistic Side of Enterprise: Postwar Management Theory and the Dream of Collective Self-Actualization Jenna Feltey Alden, Columbia University “What Happens When the Money Runs Out?” The Corporate Veil and Multinational Liability for Industrial Disease Geoffrey Tweedale, Manchester Metropolitan University Branding in the 1930s: The Case of B.V.D. Patricia A. Cunningham, The Ohio State University Influences of Two Midwestern American Department Stores on Retailing Practices, 1883-1941 Gayle Strege, The Ohio State University 21 | 2.F | Entrepreneurs and Fashion Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Lise Skov, Copenhagen Business School Discussant: Valeria Pinchera, Università degli Studi di Pisa German Jews as Nineteenth-Century Pioneers in the American Apparel Industry Phyllis Dillon, Independent Scholar Trends in the Building Industry: The Case of France after World War II Pierre Jambard, Université Paris-Sorbonne The Fashion Group: Women and Business in 1930s New York Rebecca Arnold, Royal College of Art | 3.B | Managing Intellectual Property in Europe and the United States in the Nineteenth Century Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 The Japanese Fashion Creation System in the 1920s Yuki Yamauchi, Hitotsubashi University Chair: Marina Moskowitz, University of Glasgow Discussant: W. Bernard Carlson, University of Virginia Perfumes, Pragmatism, and Princesses: Lucien Lelong, President of Paris Fashion Sarah Scaturro, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, Smithsonian Institution Keeping Secrets: Profiting from Innovation at Mustad & Son, 1830-1920 Kristine Bruland, University of Geneva 12:30-2:00pm Lunch Piazza Sraffa 13, Ground Floor 12:30-4:00pm EBHA Council Meeting Via Röntgen 1, Room 3-D3-SR01 (3rd floor) 2:00-3:30pm: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 3 22 The Design of a Private Corporate Culture in a “Public Service” Activity: A Comparison of the French and British Approaches in the Suez Canal Company, 1869-1956 Caroline Piquet, Université Paris-Sorbonne | 3.A | L’Ideal et la Pensée: The Role of National Identity and “Thought” in Shaping French Multinational Enterprise Management and Practices Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Matthias Kipping, York University Discussant: Eric Godelier, École Polytechnique Paris A Chemists’ Community as a Forerunner in Management Change and Innovation in France During the Second Part of the Twentieth Century? The Case of the Institut de Chimie des Substances Naturelles, a CNRS Laboratory Muriel Le Roux, CNRS Advancing Camaraderie Through Chemistry: The Role of French Corporate Partnership in Du Pont’s Development of Rayon Jacqueline McGlade, College of Saint Elizabeth Professor Morse’s Lightning: The Political Economy of Innovation in the NineteenthCentury U.S. Telegraph Business Richard John, University of Illinois at Chicago A Wonderbook of Rubber: Anglo-American Claims to the Parã Rubber Tree Courtney Fullilove, Columbia University Patenting Strategies in Nineteenth-Century Britain: The Battle over the Electrical Transformer Anna Guagnini, Università di Bologna | 3.C | Business in Hitler’s Europe, 1940-1944 Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 Chair: Hartmut Berghoff, German Historical Institute / University of Göttingen Discussant: Stefan Schwarzkopf, Queen Mary University of London American Business and France, 1940-1944 Martin Horn, McMaster University Keeping the Brand Alive: BMW’s Advertising Department during the Second World War Pamela E. Swett, McMaster University The Growth of Dutch Multinationals in Germany: The Case of Philips, 1920-1960 Ben Wubs, Erasmus University 23 | 3.D | Can the Fashion Industry Sustain Ethical Fashion: Or Is It a Passing Trend? Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 Chair: Francesco Morace, Future Concept Lab Discussant: Mo Tomaney, Central St. Martin’s College of Art and Design Introduction to Ethics in Fashion Efrat Tseëlon, University of Leeds The Ethics of Promoting Skinny Fashion Models Elisabeth Field, University of Leeds Emma Hogg, University of Leeds Ethics in Fashion: The Case of Comme-il-Faut: Can There Be an Ethical Fashion? “Comme-il-faut” as a Model Example Sybil Goldfiner, CEO, Comme-il-faut Hair Dyes and Cancer: In Search of a Practical Solution to Ethical Practice Richard Blackburn, University of Leeds | 3.E | Internationalism before World War II Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Chair: Mira Wilkins, Florida International University Discussant: Peter Hertner, Universität Halle-Wittenberg The Organization of British Textile Exports to the River Plate and Chile: The Case of Hodgson & Robinson, an “autonomous free-standing house” c.1817-1843 Manuel Llorca-Jaña, University of Leicester, Birkbeck College, and National Audit Office, London A Fashion for Investment or Management? Scottish Free-Standing Companies in the United States, 1880-1900 24 Kevin Tennent, London School of Economics American Businesses Assess Foreign Merchants, 1890-1940 Rowena Olegario, Vanderbilt University “A Spider’s Web that Covered All of Russia”: The Singer Sewing Machine Company and Imperial Russia’s Economic War, 1914-1917 Christine Ruane, University of Tulsa | 3.F | Innovation, Fashion, and Modernity in the Management of Consumer Product Marketing in China Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Hazel Clark, Parsons, The New School of Design Discussant: Simona Segre Reinach, Università IULM, Milan / Università IUAV, Venice Selling Knitting as Modernity: The Dongya Corporation in Tianjin, China, 1932-1937 Brett Sheehan, University of Southern California “The Show Must Go On”: Department Stores and the Making of Fashion in Shanghai during World War II Ling-Ling Lien, Academia Sinica Selling Chinese Dreams: Fashion, Culture, and Discourse in Advertising in China between the Two World Wars Stephen L. Morgan, University of Nottingham Licensing, Branding, and Cooperation in the Japanese and Chinese Fashion Industry Sabine Ichikawa, EHESS, Paris | 3.G | Using Sources Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-7 Chair: Colin Divall, York University/National Railway Museum Discussant: Laura Linard, Harvard Business School Teaching American History Through the Eye of the Needle Kim Hewitt, Empire State College Mark Soderstrom, Empire State College Dan Levinson Wilk, Fashion Institute of Technology H&M – Documenting the Story of the World’s Largest Fashion Retailer Ingrid Giertz-Mårtenson, Centre for Business History, Stockholm 3:30-4:00pm Coffee break Piazza Sraffa 13, Ground Floor 25 4:00-5:30: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 4 | 4.A | Drink Up Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Michelle Craig McDonald, Stockton College Discussant: Alfred Reckendrees, Copenhagen Business School Domesticating Drink: Refashioning Alcohol Consumption and the Male Drinker in 1940s and 1950s America Lisa Jacobson, University of California, Santa Barbara Seagram Comes to Scotland: The Role of Local Players in the Overseas Expansion of a Canadian Multinational, 1949-1965 Graham Taylor, Trent University A New Brand for a New Consumer: The Success of Campari between the Nineteenth and the Twentieth Century Valerio Varini, Università degli Studi di Milano-Bicocca Changing Fashions in Drinks, Pubs, and Management in the UK Brewing Industry since 1960 Gerald Crompton, University of Kent Business School | 4.B | Whither Enron, Worldcom, and Sarbanes-Oxley: Fraud in Twenty-First-Century American Business Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 Chair: Angel Kwolek-Folland, University of Florida Discussant: Margaret B. W. Graham, McGill University 26 The Criminal Sanction for Executive Fraud in the Post-Enron Period Virginia A. Maurer, University of Florida The Corporate Attorney-Client and Work Product Privileges: Things of the Past? Cindy A. Schipani, University of Michigan Whistleblowing and SOX: A Failure to Heed History Terry Morehead Dworkin, Indiana University Corporate Scandals: A UK Perspective Chizu Nakajima, City University London | 4.C | IT in Shaping Business Practices and Organizations Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 Chair: Kurt Jacobsen, Copenhagen Business School Discussant: Lars Heide, Copenhagen Business School Push and Pull: IT, Cashless Wage Payments, and Business Practices: The Case of the German Savings Banks and Mutual Banks in the 1950s and 1960s Paul Thomes, RWTH Aachen University Computers in Business: The Swedish Way? Gustav Sjöblom, Chalmers University of Technology Self-Service in the Digital Age: Convergence of Technology and Business Models in the Retail Markets Bernardo Bátiz-Lazo, University of Leicester J. Carles Maixé-Altés, Universidad de Coruña | 4.D | Collective Trademarks in Transnational Perspective, from the Seventeenth to the Twentieth Century Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 Chair: Patrick Fridenson, EHESS, Paris Discussant: Philip B. Scranton, Rutgers University/Hagley Museum and Library Fashioning French Food: Marketing Terroir and Twentieth-Century Food Culture Kolleen M. Guy, University of Texas at San Antonio French Collective Wine Branding in Comparative Perspective, Nineteenth-Twentieth Centuries Alessandro Stanziani, CNRS / EHESS, Paris Appearing Patriotic: The Application of Nationality to Chinese Men’s Fashions Karl Gerth, Merton College, Oxford University Collectives and Individuals: Trademarks (Brands) in Early Modern Markets in Europe Corine Maitte, Université Paris-Est Marne la Vallée | 4.E | Entrepreneurship Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Chair: Margaret Walsh, University of Nottingham Discussant: Andrew Godley, University of Reading 27 The Demise of Thomas W. Dyott: Personal Finance, Entrepreneurship, and Panic in Nineteenth-Century America R. Daniel Wadwhani, University of the Pacific | 4.H | Rags to Riches: Entrepreneurs and the Survival of Family Business in the Fabric, Clothing, and Fashion Industry Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-8 Fashioning Black Cosmopolitanism: Freddye Henderson and the Creation of the Postwar African American Travel Industry Tiffany Gill, University of Texas at Austin Chair: Kersti Ullenhag, Uppsala University Discussant: Margrit Müller, University of Zurich Fashioning Thai Silk: Queen Sirikit, Jim Thompson, and the Silk Business in Thailand, 1950s-1960s Villa Vilaithong, Chulalongkorn University | 4.F | Internationalization in the Twentieth Century Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Takeshi Ohtowa, Hiroshima City University Discussant: Carlo Brambilla, Università degli Studi dell’Insubria Old Empire’s Revenues? The Internationalization of the Spanish Publishing Sector in Latin America Maria Fernández Moya, Universidad Complutense de Madrid Internationalization Strategies in the Grangeberg Company during the Postwar Period Göran Bergström, Uppsala University The “Vending Machines”: French Hypermarkets in Spain since the 1960s Rafael Castro Balaguer, Universidad Complutense de Madrid | 4.G | Fashion Cities Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-7 28 Chair: Michele Ruffat, CNRS Discussant: Lou Taylor, Brighton University The Evolution of London as a Fashion Center: Case Study of the Early Career of Victor Stiebel Michelle Jones, University for the Creative Going to the Fair? A History of Fashion Fairs and Fashion Week Events in Hong Kong Anne Peirson-Smith, City University of Hong Kong Fashioning an Antidote to Globalization and Fast Fashion: Can Toronto’s Fashion Designers Compete? Shauna Brail, University of Toronto Deborah Leslie, University of Toronto Fashions, Business Practices in Historical Perspectives: The Case of Jaff and Company on the Witwatersrand, 1930-1990 Hanlie dos Santos, University of Johannesburg Entrepreneur, Social Capital and the Survival of Poor Whites on the Witwatersrand, 1930-2000: The Case of Burgers Brothers Clothing Enterprise Grietjie Verhoef, University of Johannesburg “Your Satisfaction, not mere profit is our aim.” Colonial English Enterprise and the Textile Industry: Arthur Bales and Son, since 1902 Leandie Maritz, University of Johannesburg Ingrid Thorius, University of Johannesburg Fashions in Doing the Business of Fashion: Insights from Family Firms in Turkish Textile and Clothing Industries Alper Kayhan, University of Sheffield 5:45-7:00pm: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 5 | 5.A | Fashioning Transportation: Creating and Challenging Gender Norms on Roads and Railroads in Britain and the United States Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Mathieu Flonneau, Université Paris-I Discussant: The Audience “You see, my husband’s so partial to a mantel-shelf”: The Railways’ Gendered Construction of Britain’s Passenger Trains, 1920-1939 Colin Divall, York University/National Railway Museum The Clothes Make the Women: Skirts, Pants, and Railway Labor during World War II Albert Churella, Southern Polytechnic State University Women and the American Automobile Industry: Changing the Gendered Landscape of Car Consumption after 1945 Margaret Walsh, University of Nottingham 29 | 5.B | Culture, Institutions, and Overseas Investment: British Investment in the Dominions in the Age of High Imperialism Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 “By June the Affair Was a Hopeless Tangle”; and Other Tales in the Failure of Personal and Business Relationships Jocelyn Wills, Brooklyn College, CUNY Chair: Harilaos Kitsikopoulos, New York University Discussant: Duncan Ross, University of Glasgow “The Personal is the Professional, or Is It?” Families, Friends, and Feminists at Harvard Business School, 1929-2000 Mary Yeager, University of California, Los Angeles The Dollars and Cents of British Imperialism: The Political Economy of the Investment in Canada, 1867-1914 Andrew Smith, Laurentian University Empire and Risk: Edwardian Financiers, Australia, and Canada, c.1899-1914 Andrew Dilley, University of Aberdeen Investors, Information, and the British World, 1860-1913 Gary Magee, La Trobe University, Bundoora | 5.C | Individuals Who Influenced the Business of Fashion Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 | 5.E | Black Men, White Women, and the Dark-Skinned Other: Fashioning Race and Business in Modern Japan Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Chair: Steven Zdatny, University of Vermont Discussant: Juliet E. K. Walker, University of Texas at Austin Situating the Dark-Skinned Other: Self-Colonization and Japanese Industrial Modernity in the Twentieth Century Christienne L. Hinz, Southern Illinois University, Edwardsville Chair: Lisa Jacobson, University of California, Santa Barbara Discussant: Paul Schmitz, Boston University Feminized Diplomacy: Japanese Fashion Magazines and U.S. Censorship in Occupied Japan J. Malia McAndrew, John Carroll University Early Female Managers at Two Leading American Department Stores Judy K. Miler, Florida State University Japanese Soul Brothers? The Afro Meets the U.S. Military in Japan, 1970 Douglas Bristol, University of Southern Mississippi Changing Business Practices in Fashion: Liz Claiborne, A Personal Narrative Lisa Hayes, Drexel University Fashion Illustration for Retail Store Advertising in America: Challenges That Illustrators Face in an Evolving Industry Cynthia Golembuski, Drexel University 30 | 5.D | Unfashionable Topics in Business and Business History: Gender and Failure Studies Meet Ordinary Workers, Micro-Business Owners, and Business Historians Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 Chair: Pamela Walker Laird, University of Colorado at Denver Discussant: Pamela Walker Laird, University of Colorado at Denver “Plodding Along as Usual”: Microentrepreneurs in Nineteenth-Century America Susan Ingalls Lewis, State University of New York, New Paltz | 5.F | Data for Business Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Paul J. Miranti, Rutgers University Business School Discussant: Luca Zan, Università di Bologna Accounting in Pre-Industrial Venice: Balance Sheets, Law Suits, and Managerial Tools Riccardo Cella, Università di Verona Business Attitudes toward Official Statistical Investigation: Italian Wool Industrialists from Reticence to Influence, 1861-1895 Giovanni Favero, Università Ca’ Foscari di Venezia Fred Carlin: The Unknown Founder of the Oldest French Prediction Company Thierry Maillet, EHESS, Paris 31 | 5.G | What’s New? Charitable Fashions in Business Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-7 Chair: Marsha Lynn Shapiro Rose, Florida Atlantic University Discussant: Ellen Hartigan O’Connor, University of California, Davis 8:00am-6:00pm Registration Piazza Sraffa 13 Fashions in Philanthropy and the Management of Charities in the Early National United States Amanda Moniz, Yale University Book Exhibit Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-9 Making Charity Fashionable: Female Reformers and the Prevention of Pauperism in Antebellum America Sharon Ann Murphy, Providence College 8:30-10:30am CONCURRENT SESSIONS 6 Corporate Social Responsibility: A Current Fashion? Inga Barbara Nuhn, Westfälische Wilhelms-Universität 7:00-8:00pm Grand Opening Aula Magna, Via Gobbi 5 Guido Tabellini, Rector, Università Bocconi Alessandro Benetton, Deputy Executive Chairman, Benetton Group Franco Amatori, Director, Institute of Economic History, Università Bocconi Francesca Polese, Chair of Program Committee, Università Bocconi Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Co-Chair of Program Committee, University of Pennsylvania / Hagley Museum and Library Reception Sponsored by Campari 32 Friday, June 12 | 6.A | Business, Technology, and Infrastructure Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Joost Dankers, Universiteit Utrecht Discussant: Takeshi Yuzawa, Gakushuin University Population Densities, Political Structures, and the Early Corporation: The Transportation Revolution in Britain and the United States Dan Bogart, University of California, Irvine John Majewski, University of California, Santa Barbara Going with the Flow: The Pattern of Norwegian Shipping in the Nineteenth Century Camilla Brautaset, University of Bergen Stig Tenold, Norwegian School of Economics and Business Administration Inter-modal Competition in Artificial Lighting around 1900: A Twelve-Country Comparison Leslie Hannah, London School of Economics Institutional Change and the Breaking-Up of Path Dependency in Danish Telecom Development Kurt Jacobsen, Copenhagen Business School | 6.B | Family Firms: Comparative Perspectives on Management and Governance Styles Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 Chair: Harold James, Princeton University Discussant: Guido Corbetta, Università Bocconi Ownership, Governance, and Strategies in Large Italian Family Firms Andrea Colli, Università Bocconi 33 Entrepreneurial Dynasties and the Competitive Advantage of Regions: The Case of Catalonia in a Long-Run Perspective Paloma Fernández Pérez, Universitat de Barcelona Nuria Puig, Universidad Complutense de Madrid Family Business, Employment, and GDP Hans Sjögren, Linköping University Dan Johannson, The Ratio Institute Carl Magnus Bjuggren, The Ratio Institute Family Firms in Switzerland: Continuity and Change in the Context of Globalization Margrit Müller, University of Zurich Governance Transitions in Family Firms: A Meta-Analysis Abe de Jong, Rotterdam School of Management Gerarda Westerhuis, Universiteit Utrecht | 6.D | Profits without Ethics Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 Chair: Ray Stokes, University of Glasgow Discussant: Christopher Kobrak, ESCP-EAP Directing German Firms by Investment and Procurement Contracts in the Third Reich Jochen Streb, University of Hohenheim Working for the New Order Joachim Lund, Copenhagen Business School The Profits of Entrepreneurs in Occupied France, 1940-1944 Marcel Boldorf, Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität, Munich Profits and Ethics in Nazi Autarky Jonas Scherner, German Historical Institute | 6.C | Textile Fashions in Pre-Industrial Times: Products and Market Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 Capitalism and the Fascist Challenge: British and American Multinationals in the 1930s Neil Forbes, University of Coventry Chair: Paola Lanaro, Università Ca’ Foscari di Venezia Discussant: Miki Sugiura, Tokyo International University Business and Morals in a Dictatorial Setting Steen Andersen, Copenhagen Business School Florentine Woollen Manufacture in the Sixteenth Century: Crisis and New Entrpreneurial Strategies Francesco Ammannati, Università di Firenze | 6.E | Regulating Business Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Wool and Silk: New Products and New Manufacture in the Venetian Mainland (15th and 16th Centuries) Edoardo Demo, Università di Verona The Manufacture of Linen in Early Modern Westphalia: Fashions of Products, Fashions of Organizing Production 34 Christof Jeggle, Bamberg University Chair: Mark Rose, Florida Atlantic University Discussant: William R. Childs, The Ohio State University Health Care Fashions: Meeting the 1950s Consumer Ideal Christy Chapin, University of Virginia Silk and Sales in Eighteenth-Century France Daryl M. Hafter, Eastern Michigan University Learning to Cope with Consumerism: The Management of Domestic Waste in Britain and West Germany, 1945 to the mid-1970s Roman Koester, University of Glasgow Stephen Sambrook, University of Glasgow Dressing for God, Dressing for Men: Liturgical Vestments in the Christian Church as a Sign of Spiritual Richness and Political Strength Sara Piccolo Paci, Fashion Institute of Technology, Florence “Governmental Participation” and the Concentration of the Coal Producing Companies in the ECSC Countries between 1952 and 1967 Eline Poelmans, Catholic University of Leuven Water Pollution in the Creative Society: Industry and Environmental Regulation under California Governor Ronald Reagan Robert Denning, The Ohio State University 35 The Emergence of Safety Issues: Risk, Road Safety, and Expertise Marine Moguen-Toursel, Centre of Historical Research, EHESS, Paris Industrial Modernization and Transatlantic Relations: Technological Drift and Resistance in the Case of the U.S. Military Assistance to Italy in the Early Cold War Years Simone Selva, Università di Bologna | 6.F | Corporate Governance Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 The Internationalization of Production and the Balance of Payments in the 1960s: An Anglo-American Comparison Neil Rollings, University of Glasgow Chair: Ioanna Pepelasis Minoglou, Athens University of Economics and Business Discussant: Hubert Bonin, Science Po Bordeaux The Place to Be Seen? Annual General Meetings in the UK, 1860 to 1960 Janette Rutterford, Open University Business School Merchants and Moguls on the US Securities Markets, 1885-1930 Mary O’Sullivan, The Wharton School A French Wave of Multiple Voting Shares, 1927-1929 Muriel Petit-Konczyk, University of Lille 2 South African Trust Companies and Boards of Executors and the Bank Act, 1942: From Self-Regulating “Financial Aristocrats” to Statutorily Controlled Deposit-Receiving Institutions Anton Ehlers, University of Stellenbosch Mother Merrill: The Corporate Culture of Inclusion at Merrill Lynch & Co. Teresa A. Koncick, Florida State University | 6.G | Reassessing Americanization Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-7 Chair: Jacqueline McGlade, College of Saint Elizabeth Discussant: Luciano Segreto, Università di Firenze 36 Marketing the American Way: The Failed Campaign to Sell the American Economic System, 1946-1950 Jason Petrulis, Columbia University The Rise and Fall of the World Bank’s Economic Department: Economic Research at the World Bank in the Early 1950s Michele Alacevich, Università di Palermo The Americanization of the European Cement Industry: The Case of LaFarge in Comparative Perspective, From Fashion to a Structural Change Dominique Barjot, Université Paris-Sorbonne | 6.H | Selling Beauty Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-8 Chair: Per Boje, University of Southern Denmark Discussant: Sabine Ichikawa, EHESS, Paris Selling Fashion and Beauty: Avon International Emanuela Scarpellini, Università degli Studi di Milano Going Green: The Growth of Natural Beauty Geoffrey Jones, Harvard Business School Branding Indigenous Knowledge: The Business of Beauty in Malaysia Shakila Yacob, University of Malaya 10:30-11:00am Coffee break Foyer, Via Gobbi 5 Sponsored by Imprese e Storia Fashion Institute of Technology Exhibit “Beauty, Brains, Bergdorf’s, and Bytes: The Collective Memory of Art, Design, Business, and Technology in FIT’s Department of Special Collections and Archives” Foyer, Via Gobbi 5 11:00am-12:30pm Krooss Prize Dissertation Session Aula Magna, Via Gobbi 5 Chair: David Hancock, University of Michigan Discussant: The Audience 37 Your Job is Your Credit: Creating a Market for Loans to Salaried Employees in New York City, 1885-1920 (UCLA) Michael Easterly, University of California, Los Angeles “Industrial Legislatures”: Consensus Standardization in the Second and Third Industrial Revolutions (Johns Hopkins University) Andrew Russell, Stevens Institute of Technology Pharmaceutical Networks: The Political Economy of Drug Development in the United States, 1945-1980 (University of Pennsylvania) Dominique Tobbell, University of Minnesota Chair: Steve Tolliday, University of Leeds Discussant: Matthias Kipping, York University Is There Such Thing as Fashions in Branding? Teresa da Silva Lopes, University of York Fashion, Institutions, and Management Practices: Evidence from Strategic Planning at Air France from the 1960s to the 1990s Ludovic Cailluet, University of Toulouse Graduate School of Management 12:30-2:00pm Lunch Piazza Sraffa 13, Ground Floor Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), a Deeply Rooted Fashion? The Aluminium of Cameroon Company Case, 1954-2005 Anne Pezet, Université Paris-Dauphine Business Historians at Business Schools Lunch Via Röntgen 1, Floor -2 Management Fashions and Management Consultants: The Case of Trebor 1907-1989 John Wilson, University of Liverpool Simon Bishop, University of Nottingham 2:00-3:30pm: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 7 | 7.A | From Vionnet to Dior: Strategies of Exclusivity and Dissemination of Paris Haute Couture Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Mukti Khaire, Harvard Business School Discussant: Dilys Blum, Philadelphia Museum of Art Paris-New York: The Problem of Copyright and the Dissemination of Haute Couture, 1925-1955 Veronique Pouillard, Harvard Business School 38 | 7.B | Fashions in Management Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 Christian Dior: Forging a Global Network from Postwar France Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontario Museum Aux Galeries Lafayette and the Couture Industry, 1893-1952 Florence Brachet Champsaur, EHESS, Paris The Mathematics of Fashion: Jean Patou’s “Américainisme” Caroline Evans, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design | 7.C | Intangible Assets in Capital-Intensive Industries Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 Chair: Geoffrey Jones, Harvard Business School Discussant: Maria Inés Barbero, Universidad de San Andrés, Buenos Aires Human Capital in Hostile Environments: The Process of Slow Creation and Quick Loss of Talented Individuals in the Industrial Labour Markets of Mexico and Chile, 1850-1930. The Case of Railways Guillermo Guajardo, UNAM, Mexico Creation and Development of Intangible Assets in Large Spanish Construction Firms during the Twentieth Century Eugenio Torres, Universidad Complutense de Madrid Social capital, Competitiveness and Internationalization: The Electronics and ICT Cluster of the Basque Country Jesùs M. Valdaliso, Universidad del País Vasco Santiago López, Universidad de Salamanca Aitziber Elola, Orkestra – Basque Institute of Competitiveness Mari Jose Aranguren, Orkestra – Basque Institute of Competitiveness Transport and Intangibles: The Spanish Airlines Javier Vidal, Universidad de Alicante 39 | 7.D | Banking Models Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 The Norwegian Selbu Mitten Industry Monika Værholm, Nowegian School of Economics and Business Administration Chair: Tsuneo Sakamoto, Meiji University Discussant: Youssef Cassis, University of Geneva The Institutional Control of Innovation: The Case of Embroidery of Madeira Benedita Camara, University of Madeira Fashion in European Banking Business Models, from the 1850s till Today Hubert Bonin, Science Po Bordeaux Crafting Fashion: The Niche Market for Amish Quilts Janneken Smucker, University of Delaware Great Expectations: Dividend Policy and Financial Fragility in Norwegian Banking before 1914 Lars Fredrik Øksendal, Norwegian School of Economics and Business Usability of Our Historical Heritage: Buldan Woven Fabric in the Fashion Industry Fatma Ozturk, Gazi University Esen Coruh, Gazi University Is a More Regulated Investment Banking Sector More Efficient? Tendencies in Regulatory Policies and the Italian Case, 1936-1993 Giandomenico Piluso, Università di Siena / Università Bocconi Starting a Fashion in the 1960s: First National City Bank, the “Everything Card,” and the Consumer Movement in the United States Christine Zumello, Université Sorbonne Nouvelle, Paris 3 | 7.E | Science and Business Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Chair: Louis Galambos, Johns Hopkins University Discussant: Knut Sogner, Norwegian School of Management Medical Fashions: The Traditional Medicines Industry in Modern Japan, 1868-2005 Maki Umemura, Cardiff Business School 40 Science within Industry: A Fashionable Enterprise? Vera Hierholzer, Goethe-Universität, Frankfurt Michael Schneider, Goethe-Universität, Frankfurt Before Bayh-Dole: Interactions Between NIH Grantees and Pharmaceutical Firms from 1945 to 1962 Roberto Mazzoleni, Hofstra University | 7.F | Reinventing Tradition Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Glenn Adamson, Victoria & Albert Museum Discussant: Sara Piccolo Paci, Fashion Institute of Technology, Florence | 7.G | Refashioning Business Communities through Economic Regime Transitions: Entrepreneurs, Firms, and the Marketplace Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-7 Chair: Parks Coble, University of Nebraska at Lincoln Discussant: Parks Coble, University of Nebraska at Lincoln From Colonial Enterprise to Socialist Work Unit: Railroad Companies and the Transformation of Chinese Society and Economy Elisabeth Köll, Harvard Business School Get Some Class! Socialist Transformations of Commerce in Chengdu City, 1949-1960 Regina Abrami, Harvard Business School Business Styles Development in Post-Soviet Russia and Belarus Sergey Kizima, Academy of Public Administration, Belarus Marina Kizima, Belarusian State University 3:30-4:00pm Coffee break Foyer, Via Gobbi 5 Sponsored by Imprese e Storia Fashion Institute of Technology Exhibit “Beauty, Brains, Bergdorf’s, and Bytes: The Collective Memory of Art, Design, Business, and Technology in FIT’s Department of Special Collections and Archives” Foyer, Via Gobbi 5 41 4:00-5:30pm EBHA Plenary: Fashion and Fashions between Business and Creativity Aula Magna, Via Gobbi 5 Chair: Guido Corbetta, Università Bocconi Maurizio Borletti, Chairman of La Rinascente srl and Upim srl Giancarlo Iliprandi, Iliprandi Associati Carlo Rivetti, Sportswear Company SpA 5:45-7:00pm: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 8 | 8.A | Automobile Industries and Auto Industry Historiography in Comparative Perspective Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Richard John, University of Illinois at Chicago Discussant: Sigfrido M. Ramírez Pérez, Università Bocconi / Université Catholique de Louvain-la-Neuve Decoding Cultural Values in Alcoholic Beverage Advertising: A Semiotic Analysis of 100 Years of Beer Advertising by the National Beer Company of Ecuador John Uggen, Willamette University | 8.C | East-Asian Shopping: The Fashions of Buying and Scholarly Fashions Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 Chair: James Watson, Harvard University Discussant: Hazel Clark, Parsons, The New School for Design Everything Also I Want: Another Look at Consumer Culture in Contemporary Singapore Peter A. Coclanis, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill Internalizing Finance in Industry: The Case of Simca, 1956-1962 Patrick Fridenson, EHESS, Paris The Symbolic Fashion of Buying: A Case Study of Malay Teens at Starbucks in Singapore Bryant Simon, Temple University Killing an Icon in the Name of Speed: Production Managers and the Decline of Lancia in the 1970s Giuliano Maielli, Queen Mary University of London Awareness and Penetration of European Luxury Goods in Japan, Especially in the Context of Postwar Mass Consumption Tomoko Okawa, Tokyo Metropolitan University | 8.B | A Long-Run Approach to Intangible Assets Creation through Branding Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 42 Intangible Assets and Competitiveness in Spain: An Approach through Trademark Registration Data in Catalonia, 1850-1946 Paloma Fernández Pérez, Universitat de Barcelona Patricio Sáiz, Universidad Autónoma de Madrid Hermés in Asia: Haute Couture, High Art, and the Marketplace Chin-Tao Wu, Academia Sinica Chair: Mary B. Rose, Lancaster University Discussant: Teresa da Silva Lopes, University of York | 8.D | Political Economy Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 International Branding and Marketing Activities of American Companies in Argentina between 1900 and 1939 Andrea Lluch, Harvard Business School Chair: Mark Rose, Florida Atlantic University Discussant: Neil Rollings, University of Glasgow Intangible Assets in the Long Run: The Experience of the Grimoldi Brand in Argentina, 1895-2005 Maria Inés Barbero, Universidad de San Andrés, Buenos Aires A Crisis in Economic Thought and the Rise of the Fair Trade Controversy: Changing Business Fashions, 1880-1940 Laura D. Phillips, University of Virginia Innovation and British Regions in the Interwar Period: A Preliminary Discussion John Cantwell, Rutgers University Anna Spadavecchia, University of Reading 43 “The Black Cabinet”: Richard M. Nixon and the Emergence of the Black Business Program Leah M. Wright, Princeton University | 8.E | Roundtable: Teaching Styles in Business History Cases: Problems, Experiences, and Perspectives Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Chair: Richard Sylla, Stern School of Business, New York University Discussant: Markus Venzin, Università Bocconi Andrea Colli, Università Bocconi Ludovic Cailluet, University of Toulouse Graduate School of Management Martin Jes Iversen, Copenhagen Business School Matthias Kipping, York University Jeffrey Fear, University of Redlands David Kirsch, University of Maryland | 8.F | European Fashions and Manufacturing Strategies in Pre-Industrial Times Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Paola Lanaro, Università Ca’ Foscari di Venezia Discussant: Miki Sugiura, Tokyo International University Fashionable Accessories: Tradition and Innovation in Button Manufacturing in Northern Italy (17th-18th Century) Barbara Bettoni, Università di Brescia After Foreign Fashions: Ceramics Import Substitution and Privileged Manufactuers in the Venetian Republic, 17th-18th Centuries Giovanni Favero, Università Ca’ Foscari di Venezia 44 Liége-Made Sport and Hunting Guns and Their Decoration Marion M.A. Huibrechts, Leuven University Following the Fashions: Old Styles, New Styles in Textile Manufactures (North-Eastern Italy, 17th-18th Century) Andrea Caracausi, Università Ca’ Foscari di Venezia | 8.G | Fashionable Corporate Networks in Periods of Continuity and Change Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-7 Chair: Giandomenico Piluso, Università di Siena / Università Bocconi Discussant: Joep Schenk, Universiteit Utrecht The Individual Manager and the Transfer of “Corporate Fashions”: Measuring the Effects of the Dutch Corporate Network, 1948-2003 Gerarda Westerhuis, Universiteit Utrecht Abe de Jong, Erasmus University The Construction of the Fortress of the Alps: Business Networks in Switzerland, 19001938 Thomas David, University of Lausanne Martin Lüpold, University of Zurich Gerhard Schnyder, Cambridge University State-owned Enterprises in the Italian Corporate Network, 1972-1983 Alberto Rinaldi, Università di Modena e Reggio Emilia Michelangelo Vasta, Università di Siena The German-Jewish Economic Elite, 1900-1933 Paul Windolf, University of Trier 7:30-9:00pm Emerging Scholars Reception Restaurant “Volo”, Viale Beatrice d’Este, 40 Sponsored by Fashion Institute of Technology 45 Saturday 13 June 8:00am-3:00 Registration Piazza Sraffa 13 Book Exhibit Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-9 Fashion Institute of Technology Exhibit “Beauty, Brains, Bergdorf’s, and Bytes: The Collective Memory of Art, Design, Business, and Technology in FIT’s Department of Special Collections and Archives” Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-9 8:30-10:30am: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 9 | 9.A | Transportation in the United States and France: Structural Factors in Railway Transport Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Richard Vahrenkamp, University of Kassel Discussant: André Straus, CNRS Nationalization of Railroads: France and the U.S. during the Inter-War Period Jim Cohen, John Jay College, CUNY The Conquest of the Telegraph: Train Dispatching, Telephony, and the 1907 Hours of Service Act Benjamin Schwantes, University of Delaware High-Speed Rail in France and in Italy in Comparative Perspective Michèle Merger, CNRS 46 Parisian Railway Stations as Place of Social Regulation Stéphanie Sauget, Université Rennes 2 Fashionable Pricing Systems for Railroad Services in Europe in the 1880s Maria Eugénia Mata, Universidade Nova de Lisboa | 9.B | All in the Family Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 Chair: Daniela Felisini, Università di Roma Tor Vergata Discussant: Paloma Fernández Pérez, Universitat de Barcelona Poor Thomas Buddenbrook! Family Business and Literature Fermín Allende, University of the Basque Country Preparing for Family Business Succession: Evolutionary Selection and Variation in American and Finnish Family Firms Juha Kansikas, University of Jyväskylä Tuomas Kuhmonen, University of Jyväskylä Anne Laakkonen, University of Jyväskylä The All-American Success Story: Wiffle, Inc. Eldon Bernstein, Lynn University Fred Carstensen, University of Connecticut Family, Inc. – Fashions in Family Business Management and Corporate Culture, Germany ca. 1960 to 2005 Christina Lubinski, University of Göttingen | 9.C | Exploring “the European Enterprise”: Strategy, Structure, and Market Integration Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 Chair: John Wilson, University of Liverpool Discussant: Harm Schröter, University of Bergen Business Groups and Family Enterprises: Italy and the Strategy-Structure Responses to the Economic Integration Process, 1980-2005 Andrea Colli, Università Bocconi The Transition from European Periphery to Mediterranean Core: The Largest Spanish Corporations and the Responses to Economic Integration, 1980-2005 Veronica Binda, Università Bocconi Strategic and Structural Responses to International Dynamics in the Open Dutch Economy, 1957-2007 Abe de Jong, Erasmus University Explaining the Transformation of the Banking Sector: An Analytical Model of Corporate Responses to European Integration Martin Jes Iversen, Copenhagen Business School Gerarda Westerhuis, Universiteit Utrecht 47 | 9.D | Organizational Change Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 | 9.F | Advertising Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Renato Giannetti, Università di Firenze Discussant: Susanna Fellman, University of Helsinki Chair: Paul Schmitz, Boston University Discussant: Veronique Pouillard, Harvard Business School Transplanting Trendy Organizational Forms: Does It Always Work? Marina Nicoli, Università Bocconi What Was Advertising? The Invention, Rise, Demise, and Disappearance of Advertising Concepts in Nineteenth- and Twentieth-Century Europe and America Stefan Schwarzkopf, Queen Mary University of London Service Bureau: From “Local Processing” to Outsourcing, 1930s-1970s Pierre E. Mounier-Kuhn, CNRS Fashions in Business Names: The Demise of an Organizational Form in Dutch Warehousing, 1871-2007 Hugo van Driel, Rotterdam School of Management Jeroen Kuilman, Hong Kong University of Science and Technology Media Influence in Corporate Organizational Processes: Business History Contributions to the Debate? Laura M. Milanes-Reyes, State University of New York, Albany | 9.E | Managing Big Business Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Chair: Francesca Fauri, Università di Bologna Discussant: Adoración Álvaro Moya, Universitat de Barcelona Studying the Absence of a Fashion: Entrepreneurship in Germany during the 1970s Jan-Otmar Hesse, University of Göttingen 48 Management Development in Germany’s Big Business Werner Plumpe, Goethe-Universität, Frankfurt Christian Reuber, Goethe-Universität, Frankfurt Making Business Fashionable: American Corporate Leaders and Their Discontents in the 1970s Benjamin Waterhouse, Harvard University Growth of Four UK Hotel Companies with the Use of Merger and Acquisition Activities, 1979-2004 Mary Quek, University of Hertfordshire The Function and Mission of Advertising in the Nineteenth Century Damayanthie Eluwawalage, State University of New York, Oneonta Sold! Advertising and the Middle-Class Female Consumer in Munich, c. 1900-1914 Monica Neve, University of Constance Marketing to the Masses: The Weekly Cycle of Working-Class Expenditure and the Growth of Mass Marketing Strategies in 1930s Britain Peter Scott, University of Reading James Walker, University of Reading Advertisements Used in Fashion Products and Customer Perceptions Concerning Advertisements Sule Civitci, Gazi University Basak Bogday Saygili, Gazi University | 9.G | Synthetics Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-7 Chair: Andrew Popp, University of Liverpool Discussant: Regina Blaszczyk, University of Pennsylvania/Hagley Museum and Library Lead User Innovation and the UK Outdoor Trade since 1850 Mary B. Rose, Lancaster University Mike Parsons, Lancaster University Synthetic Fibers and the “Revolution of Clothing”: Art, “Haute-Couture,” and Popular Culture in Fashion Advertising in Brazil in the 1960s Maria Bonadio, SENAC College Managing Technology to Achieve Industrialization: The Korean Nylon Chaebols in the 1960s-1970s Soojeong Kang, London School of Economics 49 Coloring Markets: The Industrial Transformation of the Dyestuff Business Revisited Alexander Engel, University of Göttingen | 9.H | Fashion, Production and Place Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-8 Chair: Norma Rantisi, Concordia University Discussant: The Audience Taste, Technique, and the Mechanization of Papermaking in Britain and France Leonard N. Rosenband, Utah State University The Export Performance of the Italian Fashion System in the EU Context, Post-World War II Years Valeria Pinchera, Università di Pisa Gilding the Italian Design: The Compasso d’Oro Award as Institutional Support to the Design System, 1954-2008 Michela Barbot, Università Bocconi Manufacturing, Trade, Consumption. Firms and Goods in Lombardy between the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries Silvia Conca Messina, Università degli Studi di Milano Emerging Markets: Giorgio Armani and the Designs of Expansion John Potvin, University of Guelph Fashionable Productions: Cotton and the Industrialization of Milan Monika Poettinger, Università Bocconi | 10.B | Nationalism and Development around the World Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 “Made in England”: The Manufacturing and Marketing of English Household Goods, 1851-1914 Francesca Carnevali, University of Birmingham Lucy Newton, University of Reading Chair: Pierangelo Toninelli, Università degli Studi di Milano - Bicocca Discussant: Stig Tenold, Norwegian School of Economics and Business Adminstration Competition and Cooperation for the Fashion Market: A Comparison of the Modern Development of Textile Districts in Japan and Europe Tomoko Hashino, Kobe University Takafumi Kurosawa, Kyoto University 50 The Variety and the Evolution of Business Models and Organizational Forms in the Italian Fashion Industry Paola Varacca Capello, Università Bocconi Davide Ravasi, Università Bocconi 10:30-11:00am Coffee break Piazza Sraffa 13, Ground Floor Sponsored by Routledge 11:00am-12:30pm: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 10 | 10.A | Made in Italy Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Louise Wallenberg, Stockholm University Discussant: Lise Skov, Copenhagen Business School Business Groups and Energy Nationalism in Latin America: A Comparative Study of Colombia, Chile, and Argentina Marcelo Bucheli, University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign Oil Nationalization and Managerial Response: The Case of Anglo-Iranian Oil Company, 1951-1953 Neveen Talaat Hassan Abdelreheim, York Management School Josephine Maltby, York Management School Steven Toms, York Management School Kaiser, Nkrumah, and the Cold War: Negotiating an Integrated Development Project in Newly Independent Ghana, 1959-1966 Stephanie Decker, University of Liverpool | 10.C | Striking a Bargain: State and Labor Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 Chair: Marc J. Stern, Bentley College Discussant: Barbara Hahn, Texas Technological University 51 Supplying the Cheap Labor for the South’s Postwar Textile Industry: A Case Study of Greenville County, South Carolina, 1860-1885 Bruce E. Baker, Royal Holloway, University of London The Confederation of Danish Industry and the Shaping of the Welfare State Morten Lind Larsen, Copenhagen Business School “No Steel, No TV, and No Burgers”: How Industrial Action in a Single Company Threatened to Bring British Economy to a Standstill Ray Stokes, University of Glasgow Ralf Banken, University of Frankfurt | 10.F | Cooperation and Cartels Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Dominique Barjot, Université Paris-Sorbonne Discussant: Margaret C. Levenstein, University of Michigan The Little Car That Did Nothing Right: The 1972 Lordstown Assemble Strike, the Chevrolet Vega, and the Unraveling of Growth Economics Joseph Arena, The Ohio State University Concentration on the Catwalk: Competition and Concentration in Dutch Business: The Sequence of Collusive Practices, 1900-2000 Bram Bouwens, Universiteit Utrecht Joost Dankers, Universiteit Utrecht | 10.D | Networking and News Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 The “Aluminium-Rush”: International Cartels and the Birth of the Japanese Aluminium Industry, 1926-1939 Marco Bertilorenzi, Università di Firenze Chair: Margaret B. W. Graham, McGill University Discussant: Andrea Giuntini, Università di Modena e Reggio Emilia Trading Facts: Arrow’s Fundamental Paradox and the Emergence of Global News Networks, 1750-1900 Gerben Bakker, London School of Economics Business, Politics, Technology, and the International Supply of News, 1850-1945 Jonathan Silberstein-Loeb, Oxford University Networking and Corporate Governance in the Regional Swedish Daily Newspaper Industry Christoffer Rydland, Stockholm School of Economics 52 Trading Places: Women Offer a Different Take on Downtown St. Paul Business, 1939-1971 Katalin Medvedev, University of Georgia | 10.E | Merchants, Markets, and Stores Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Chair: Ellen Hartigan O’Connor, University of California, Davis Discussant: Andrea Caracausi, Università Ca’ Foscari di Venezia The Role of Mercers in Early Modern Venice Isabella Cecchini, Università Ca’ Foscari di Venezia Taking on the Fashion Business: The Rising Fortunes of the Mercer in Fifteenth- and Sixteenth-Century Florence Elizabeth Currie, Victoria & Albert Museum Swedish Business Associations, Regulatory Regimes of Advertising and Fashions in Political Economy, 1950-1976 Michael Funke, Uppsala University | 10.G | Piracy and Fraud Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-7 Chair: Corine Maitte, Université Paris-Est Marne la Vallée Discussant: Alessandro Stanziani, CNRS / EHESS, Paris A Nice Pair?: Fashion and Piracy from a Legal Historical Perspective Marianne Dahlén, Uppsala University Dodgy Business, After a Fashion: A Historical Framework for Understanding Fraud and White Collar Crime Christopher McKenna, Oxford University Edward Balleisen, Duke University The Fashionable Business of Design Piracy in the Apparel Industry: The Historical Perspective Jean Louise Parsons, Iowa State University Sara B. Marcketti, Iowa State University 53 | 10.H | Urban Business Politics Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-8 | 11.B | Women at Work Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 Chair: Stefania Licini, Università di Bergamo Discussant: Bryant Simon, Temple University Chair: Susan Ingalls Lewis, State University of New York, New Paltz Discussant: Liná Galvez Muñoz, Universidad Pablo de Olavide Regulatory Regime Change in the Swedish Residential Mortgage Market Frida Östman, Uppsala University An Early Modern Supply Chain: The Roles of Women in the Beaver Trade from Procurers to Consumers Kim Todt, Cornell University Un-Learning Institutions: Louisiana Contractors’ Response to the Post-Katrina Relaxation of Set-Aside Programs Loubna Bouamane, Université Paris VII and Louisiana State University Ralph Maurer, Louisiana State University 12:30-2:00pm Lunch Piazza Sraffa 13, Ground Floor Women in Business History Lunch Via Röntgen 1, Floor -2 54 When the Salesgirl Sniffs Perfume: Interference of Bourgeois and Corporate Culture in European Department Stores around 1900 Heinrich Hartmann, Free University of Berlin Invisible Business: Private Dressmaking in Soviet Russia Olga Vainshtein, Russian State University for the Humanities Setting a Trend: Feminization of Bank Telling in Twentieth-Century Sweden Maria Stanfors, Lund University Kajsa Holmberg, Lund University 14.00-15.30: CONCURRENT SESSIONS 11 | 11.C | Fast Cars Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-3 | 11.A | Nordic Design Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 Chair: Jonathan Russ, University of Delaware Discussant: Mathieu Flonneau, Université Paris-I Chair: Louise Wallenberg, Stockholm University Discussant: Dirk Gindt, Stockholm University Motor Racing Competitions as Fashion: The Influence on Alfa Romeo’s Image, 19241951 Alan Guido Mantoan, Università Bocconi The Role of Fashion in the Development of the Swedish Garment Industry and Garment Distribution, 1950-2005 Carina Gräbacke, University of Gothenburg Finnish Design, Functionality, and Ease: Brand Management in Finnish Household Product Industry from 1960s to the Early 1990s Jaakko Autio, University of Helsinki Changing Business Fashion within the Danish Fashion Industry, 1965-2000: Deliberations Relating to Moving Production Abroad Kristoffer Jensen, University of Southern Denmark In the Wake of Scandinavian Modern: A Study of Danish Fashion Promotion, 1960s to 2008 Birgit Lyngbye Pedersen, Copenhagen Business School Car Design under a Marketing Paradigm: The German Automobile Industry and the Challenges of the Energy Price Crisis in the 1970s Ingo Köhler, Georg-August University, Göttingen | 11.D | Brands and Trademarks: Views from the Periphery Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-4 Chair: John Wilson, University of Liverpool Discussant: Kolleen M. Guy, University of Texas at San Antonio The Emergence of Brand: Transatlantic Markets for Wine, 1750-1820 David Hancock, University of Michigan 55 Service Marks and Union Labels Paul Duguid, University of California, Berkeley New Trends in the World Wine Consumption and the Impact in the Spanish Enterprises during the Second Half of the Twentieth Century Francisco J. Medina-Albaladejo, Universidad de Murcia Who’s Kidding Who? National Marks of Origin and Protection: The British Experience during the Interwar Years David Higgins, University of York Dev Gangjee, London School of Economics | 11.E | That’s Entertainment! Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-5 Chair: Seiichiro Yonekura, Hitotsubashi University Discussant: Gerben Bakker, London School of Economics Business History and Economic Value Creation: A Discussion of the Problems and Opportunities Christopher Kobrak, ESCP-EAP | 11.G | Applying “Science” Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-7 Chair: Harm Schröter, University of Bergen Discussant: Fabio Lavista, Università Bocconi Introduction of New Business Practices: When Scientific Management Came to Europe Jørgen Burchardt, National Museum of Science and Technology, Denmark Democracy or Seduction? The Demonization of Scientific Management and the Deification of Human Relations Kyle Bruce, Aston Business School Fashioning the Sounds of Hawaii: Roy Smeck and the Business of Hawaiian-Style Guitars Andrew D. A. Bozanic, University of Delaware The Application of Taylorism in France: The Role of the Michelin Family in Giving Birth to a French Working Rationalization Francesca Tesi, Université Paris IV-Sorbonne Global Firms and Local Tastes: U.S. Film Multinationals in Their Largest Foreign Market in the 1930s and 1940s Peter Miskell, University of Reading Industrial Design and Organizational Learning: The Development of the Hand-Set Telephone at the Bell System in the 1920s Paul J. Miranti, Rutgers University Business School Controlling Fashion: Enterprise and the Popular Music Industry in Britain, 1950-1980 Richard Coopey, Aberystwyth University Terry Gourvish, London School of Economics | 11.H | Fashion Spread Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-8 Creativity and Place in the Evolution of a Cultural Industry: The Case of Cirque du Soleil Norma M. Rantisi, Concordia University Deborah Leslie, University of Toronto 56 | 11.F | Reflections on Business History Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-6 Chair: Louis Galambos, Johns Hopkins University Discussant: Franco Amatori, Università Bocconi The Rediscovery of the Heroic Entrepreneur Dalit Baranoff, Johns Hopkins University Business History and European Integration: From Fashion to a New Research Agenda Sigfrido M. Ramirez Pérez, Università Bocconi / Université Catholique de Louvain-la-Neuve Chair: Sarah Johnson, Carnegie Mellon University Discussant: Diana Crane, University of Pennsylvania In Europe and Abroad: Fashion Diffusion Theories in Differing Cultural Contexts Sheila Gies, Manchester Metropolitan University Fashion Spread: The Diffusion of California Men’s Leisure Styles, 1930-1970 William Scott, University of Delaware Defining Fashion: The Role of Media in Constructing the Meaning of the Fashion Industry in India Mukti Khaire, Harvard Business School Fashion and National Identity: Interactions between Italians and Chinese in the Global Fashion Industry Simona Segre Reinach, Università IULM, Milan / Università IUAV, Venice 57 3:30-4:00pm Coffee break Piazza Sraffa 13, Ground Floor 4:00-4:30pm Book Auction Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-9 4:30-5:30pm BHC General Meeting Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-1 EBHA General Meeting Piazza Sraffa 13, Room N.1-2 There are three main areas where you can easily find restaurants and bars open also on Sunday. Navigli, at walking distance from Bocconi. This area offers reasonably-priced restaurants and some of the city’s most exciting nightclubs. Duomo, about a 20-minute walk from Bocconi. This is the area around the famous Duomo (Cathedral of Milan). There are many shops (entrance to the Vittorio Emanuele gallery) and restaurants. Be aware of high prices. Brera, very close to the City Center, about ten minutes walking from Duomo. This is one of the liveliest areas of the city with chic antique shops, galleries, cafes, restaurants and bars. 5:30-6:15pm BHC Presidential Address Via Röntgen 1, Aula Magna Restaurants: here you can find Italian dishes and Milanese specialities. Pizzerie: here you can have pizza but you can usually also find salads, pasta, meat, fish. Happy Hour: the famous Happy Hour is based on drinks and a finger food buffet. You pay for drinks but can eat all you want. Price range for Happy Hour is between 8 and 10 €. All prices are to be considered a rough approximate. The Politics of Rescuing Financial Institutions, 2008-2009 Mark Rose, Florida Atlantic University Restaurants 6:30-7:45pm Chandler Reception (BHC Award Ceremony) Via Röntgen 1, Foyer 58 Eating and Drinking in Milan 8:00pm Gala Dinner Via Röntgen 1, Foyer Giulio Pane e Ojo Via Ludovico Muratori 10, near the M3 Porta Romana tube Station. Phone: +39 02 5456189 Italian cuisine and mainly traditional Roman specialities (bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti with cheese and pepper, pasta with string bean, lamb, artichoke) in a refined tavern. Price: roughly 35 € per person Credit Card: all Opening hours: Sunday closed Al Penny Viale Bligny 42. Phone: +39 02 58321230 Italian cuisine and traditional Tuscan specialities (mainly meat) Price: roughly 45 € per person Credit Card: Diners, Visa, Mastercard Opening hours: Sunday closed L’Approdo Viale Bligny 42. Phone: +39 02 58305681? Fish and Italian regional specialities. Price: roughly 45 € per person Credit Card: all Opening hours: Saturday closed; Sunday closed at lunch 59 Amici Miei Viale Bligny 19. Phone: +39 02 58321197? Italian regional cuisine and Milanese specialties (osso buco, risotto alla Milanese) in a country and cozy tavern. Price: roughly 35 € per person Credit Card: Diners, Visa, Mastercard Opening hours: Sunday closed at lunch La Madonnina Via Gentilino 6. Phone: +39 02 89409089 Milanese specialties. Price: roughly 35 € per person Credit Card: Diners, Visa, Mastercard Opening hours: Sunday closed La Rinascente Food & Restaurant At the 7th floor of the Rinascente, on a terrace just in front of the Duomo. In the “Food Hall” you can find: a sushi bar, mozzarella bar, a sandwich bar, a restaurant, a juice bar, a lounge bar, a wine shop. Price: roughly 30-35 € per person Credit Card: Diners, Visa, Mastercard Opening hours: Monday closed Pizzerie Fratelli La Bufala Viale Sabotino 1. Phone: +39 02 58328448 Pizza and Italian regional cuisine. Price: roughly 30 € per person Credit Card: Diners, Visa, Mastercard Opening hours: 12-3pm; 7pm-midnight 60 Osteria dell’Oca Giuliva Viale Bligny 29. Phone: +39 02 58312871 Pizza and Italian regional cuisine, mainly Apulian specialities. Price: roughly 30 € per person Credit Card: all Opening hours: Monday closed Antica Pizzeria Fiorentina Viale Bligny 41. Phone: +39 02 58306292 Pizza Price: roughly 20 € per person Credit Card: Diners, Visa, Mastercard Opening hours: Tuesday closed Happy Hours and Brunch Al volo Viale Beatrice d’Este 40. Phone: +39 02 58325543 Cocktail bar and open garden Opening hours: 12-2:45pm (restaurant) and 6pm to 02am (happy hour and cocktail bar) Twelve Viale Sabotino 12. Phone: +39 02 89073876 Sandwiches, salads at lunch. Happy hour with finger buffet from 6pm. Brunch. Opening hours: 7am-2am Gattullo Piazzale di Porta Lodovica 2. Phone: +39 02 58310497 Gattullo is one of the most famous Milanese pastry shops. Sandwiches and salads at lunch. Happy hour with finger buffet from 6pm. Opening hours: 7am-10pm. Monday closed. California Bakery Piazza Sant’Eustorgio 4. Phone: +39 02 76011492 Brunch Opening hours: Monday to Friday 11am-5pm; Saturday and Sunday 5pm-midnight Henry’s Cafè Viale Col di Lana 4. Phone: +39 02 8373335 Restaurant at lunch and dinner. Happy hour from 6pm. 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