NOTES FROM TARANIS THREADS ON RC GROUPS
Q & A – MODIFICATIONS
(From 12/21/2013-12/29/2013)
CONTENTS
Page
Topic
2-3
3
4
RX Antenna Length & Placement
Startup Sound and Aileron Differential
THR-ELE Mix
4
5
5-6
6
7
7-9
9
9
9-10
10
10-11
12
12-13
13
13
14
15
15-16
16-17
17-18
18-19
19
19-20
Zadig, Bootlegger and Win8.
Flap setup and adjustment
Timer with reset
Keeping track of files on Taranis and your PC
Down ELE Mix
Getting the Vario to work and be heard
Binding two X8Rs – video link
How to upgrade firmware through FrSKY Smart Ports
Possible Zadig vs. USB 3.0 Solution
Differential Toggle for Glider Ailerons
Flaps on slider with sound for position
Model Settings – Module 1 & 2
Using a curve to set flap/aileron movement
Shifting servo center
Where to point TX antenna
Throttle Stick Adjustment
Hot Glue on Gimbal Wires
Differential Issue
Telemetry Ports
Update on UART – first look
UART Information from FrSKY Website
MAC Users Audio Files
Setting Maximum Altitude
1
RX Antenna Length & Placement
What do you mean by this, better quality from the sleeve dipole? I don't know what a sleeve
dipole is/means, which is part of my problem
I ordered two of the 15cm style, if I decided I wanted to swap out the PCB antennas on my
X8R. I didn't need the longer length, so I went short.
What's the benefit of the 25cm style?
Simplified, the sleeve dipole adds a ground reference for the antenna. The stock whisker
lacks that. It just gives a bit better reception. If I were buying replacement antennas, I'd get
the dipole if they were available.
I wouldn't hesitate to use the whisker though. They work fine for what most people would
want. I wonder if they use the dipoles on the longer ones to make up for the small loss that
comes from longer coax? It shouldn't be real significant at these lengths though...
One advantage of the PCB antennas is the stiffness. They won't bend with air moving over
them and such. Straighter is better with these antennas. With the whiskers and dipoles, try
to keep the active part (stripped at the end) straight. The coax can be bent and such within
reason.
For line of sight use, I've never had problems with any of the antenna types. The only time I
could see an issue coming up would be FPV or other long range situations. So I would go
with whatever fits best on your craft unless you really need range.
I have the X8R with short antennae and plastic sleeve type things at the ends (dipoles?)
Is there any better way they are to be situated in relationship to the ground ie. vertical,
horizontal or it doesn't matter?
Two antenna (not the coax cable) should be 90 degree from each other in any plane
(geometric plane). I believe you're best off considering the geometric plane you place them
in be the geometric plane that you'd see the face of the most when flying. It doesn't do as
much good to be looking edge on the geometric plane you've placed them on. For me that's
one forward and backward and one up and down. Gliders that tend to be high overhead
might do better with a catfish whisker orientation.
This is a link to a video on antenna placement:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=104
When you think about it, a geometric plane (sheet of plexiglass) can be rotated in space to
an infinite possible orientations. The trick is to figure which will benefit you the most.
If you are flying around a school yard, or a flying field and staying within a few hundred
yards and don't have the antennas shielded by aluminum, carbon fiber, or other metal,
you're probably good to go with most any configuration you choose as the practical limits
2
are far within the theoretical limits for most operations.
Only as people further separate the model and transmitter greater distances with activities
such as FPV they push the envelope on distance - and the optimal orientation becomes a
subject for increased concern - and debate.
STARTUP SOUND AND AILERON DIFFERENTIAL
I have 2 questios in companion 9x I would like to sent the volume for the start up of the
taranis so I can turn it down on start up and adjust as needed then I I have my ailerons set to
different chanels with the left aileron set at -100 it works like it sopose to I would like to add
differential to them so one dosn't go as far as the other.
Thanks
Reduce the volume of the startup sound using a sound editor such as audacity then set the
volume to a custom function using a slider or
knob.http://audacity.sourceforge.net/download/
Use the servos menu (OpenTX) or Limits tab (C9x) to set the differential throw of ailerons.
THR-ELE Mix
- We want 100% of Ele to go to the elevator channel (normal operation)
- We want to 10% of Thr to be subtracted from the elevator channel. But since Thr goes
3
from -100 to 100 (and not simply 0 to 100) we need to adjust this by adding an offset of
100%.
Translating to the mix specification, using channel 3 as the output:
CH03:
(+100%) Ele
(-10%) Thr Offset(100%)
ZADIG, BOOTLEGGER and Win8.1
I downloaded the Taranis_WinUSB_driver.zip file and unzipped it. I went to device manager
as instructed in the instructions and could not find the STM32 Bootloader that should have
been in the Universal Serial Bus section. Did a global search for the STM32 Bootloader.
Does not show on my computer. Have done the whole trick 5 times.
Download Zadig.exe from https://code.google.com/p/companion9x/downloads/list
With Taranis off plug it into USB. Wait a couple minutes.
Run Zadig.exe
In Options choose "List all Devices".
FLAP SETUP AND ADUSTMENT
I want to set up 3 position flaps on my E-flite DHC Beaver and would like to be able to change
the mid and down flap positions by using S2 as a weight variable so that the mid and down
4
positions change relative to the S2 pot. Just can't seem to get this one to work properly. I think
its because the mid position would need to be either a - value or a + value depending on the S2
position to change the mid weight. Any ideas?
I have managed to get differential ailerons setup using S1 to change the differential which works
great, just can't get the flap thing figured out.
Here's one way:
Flaps
(+100%)MAX Switch(SA↑) (FlapZero)
R (+20%)MAX Switch(SA-) (FlapMid)
R (-80%)MAX Switch(SA↓) (FlapFull)
(+40%)S2 Switch(!SA↑) (FlapAdj)
Pick a switch - I used SA in the example. I set flaps up to be SA↑ (SA pushed all the way
away), flaps mid to be SA- (SA middle) and full flaps to be SA↓ (SA pulled toward you). For
mid and full I used the Replace function with MAX and a chosen value that can be changed
to suit your desire. This way of using two lines with the Replace function allows you to set
the non adjusted flaps down positions anywhere you like.
For the adjustment, I added a line at the end of the flaps channel mixers in add mode. I
used !SA↑ (flaps NOT up) as the switch to enable this mixer only in the mid or full position.
Flaps up is always at a fixed position. S2 as desired and a weight that is enough to drive full
flaps a bit more than the limit. This weight can be changed as desired - as anything else in
the example.
Another way to do it is to use S2 to set a global variable. To keep the Gvar always positive
use a custom curve that goes from 0 to 100 instead of -100 to 100 (3 point is good enough
ie: 0, 50, 100). Then you can use your flap switch settings and the gvar as your weight.
When you have the flap settings figured out, you can eliminate the gvar and use "hard"
settings on your flap switch to save memory and simplify the program.
TIMER WITH RESET
Im trying to get the timer to work correctly on my Taranis, but something is not right.. that i
am sure is obvious.
Ive set the timer to countdown from ten minutes, and using the switch SHt to turn it on. I
must be doing something wrong however as i cant work out how to pause the timer or to just
stop it counting ? Toggling the switch doesnt seem to do it as it did with my Turnigy 9Xr
In fact, Michael, you need two custom switches and one global variable: Your timer runs as
long as CS1 is ON. Now CS2 is the reset of CS1. Because you cannot set CS1 by toggling
SH, you need to use GV1 as intermediary. Finally SH Long toggle resets the timer. Enjoy!
Link to eepe file:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=6353929&d=1387760208
5
DIABLING SWITCH DEPENDENT ON ANOTHER SWITCH
Is there a way to disable a switch dependent on another physical switch position.
If my SB would turn off as soon as I hit the SD switch that my solve my issue. I think.
Got it. Just put it in the beginning and it works.
KEEPING TRACK OF FILES IN TARANIS AND YOUR PC
Companion9x does not play sounds.
To setup your sounds and graphics, Make an exact copy of the SD card on your computer.
Call the folder something like "SD CARD" Next set the SD Structure Path in the Preferences
to that SD card directory. Now when you look for model icons, our sounds they will be in the
right place so they'll work on the Tx.
Common mistakes are to set the SD structure Path too deep. Just to the directory that is
analogous to the root of the SD card.
Alternately, you can set the SD Structure Path to your actual Transmitter SD card and work
directly on it. The drawbacks are 1. you have to have the Tx connected to the Computer
and turned on whenever you're sounds or model icons, 2. that any changed (such as
deletions) will be permanent on the SD card.
I prefer to have a back copy of the SD card, and a working copy on the HD so I don't phrap
up my SD card - but the drawback to that is keeping them synchronized.
GLIDER DOWN ELE MIX
I have an oldtimer glider with a V-tail that has been upgraded to Brushless.
It now needs some serious downmix on the elevator.
6
I don't understand how this can be achieved, I thought a GV should be used.
But the transmitter is somewhat too complex at times.
CH1: (+100%) Thr (THR)
CH3: (+100%) Ail (ELE)
(+100%) Ele (ELE)
CH4: (+100%) Ail (RUD)
(+100%) Ele (RUD)
Ok. I'm going to approach this from scratch.
With Taranis you start at the end and work backwards.
Ch 1 is Throttle
Ch 2 is vacant
Ch 3 is Right Ruddervator
Ch 4 is Left Ruddervator
There are no ailerons and you want your yaw on the aileron stick. You also want to increase
the down elevator as you increase throttle.
There are probably other ways to do this. But my approach is to use Channel 6 with a curve
that limits input from S1 from 0 to 25 - this is used to set GV1. Thus the S1 allows you to
fine tune that amount of downthrust you're giving. I think I'd add a the read value of GV1 so
you'd know what value was the right value - then replace the GV1 with that value once you
get it tuned. If your tail surfaces are reversed, just swap servo channels and it should be
good. I have the EEPE link below:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=6355369&d=1387825883
GETTING THE VARIO TO WORK
Hi.im trying to get my high precision Variometer Sensor to work.ive bound my X 8 R reciever
in Di6 and put soce in the telementry screen as vario,connected the S port up but no
display,a couple of questions from this old man wher do I connect the data out and data in
leads to,many thank's,Marty.
I don't quite understand so will try to clarify.
"ive bound my X 8 R reciever in Di6 " → Do the servos respond? What do you mean by
Di6?
"connected the S port up" → Do you have a photo of the connection? You've connected the
S.Port right above the antenna on the Rx --- right? You paid attention to the polarity of the
plug at both ends?
There are two S.Port connections on the vario. There is not specifically an in and an out.
There is one S.Port connection on the Rx. It's NOT below the servo connections - but on
the other side.
7
To see vario display you long press the Page button. To HEAR the vario you need to set a
custom function.
Setting SW A up to hear vario tones.
C9X view showing the input for altitude and display of altitude and max altitude.
Below are TX views of the C9X screens:
8
BINDING TWO X8Rs
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=8a24c98a696b4e5723db293f62190b87&loc
=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rcgroups.com%2Fforums%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D2053353&
v=1&libId=15240645-89af-419b-b7ddaaa41f954438&out=http%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FYFuSzOhe1bE&ref=https%3A%2F%2F
www.google.com%2F&title=FrSky%20X8R%20receiver%20help%20%20RC%20Groups&txt=Taranis%20How%20To%3A%20Bind%20Two%20X8R's%20toget
her%20to%20get%2016%20Channels&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13878514769906
Notes: You will need to power both TXs – various ways to do this such as two batteries or
one battery with a Y-connector. Note that if bound this was there is no telemetry from the
second 8XR because you cannot receive telemetry from two RXs at the same time.
HOW TO UPGRADE FIRMWARE THROUGH FrSKY SMART PORTS
You'll need http://www.alofthobbies.com/smartport-cable.html connected
to http://www.alofthobbies.com/usb-upgraded-cable.html The attached manual, and this
link http://www.frsky-rc.com/download/
Link to file: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=6355143&d=1387815855
POSSIBLE Zadig vs. USB 3.0 solution
As I continue to search from time to time for a solution for a friend that has a laptop with
USB 3.0 that simply won't properly configure to Flash new firmware to his Taranis... I've
come up useless time after time.
Maybe not this time.
9
Tonight I found a new version updated November 20, 2013 and NOT in sourceforge where
updates have been posted in the past.
Version 2.0.1.162 (2013.11.20)
Fixed support for devices that have a comma in their description
Fixed usage of relative directories for driver files
Added support for VIA VL805 USB 3.0 Host Controllers
Added 'exit_on_success' option in zadig.ini (courtesy of JaggedJax)
Embedded drivers: WinUSB v6.1.7600.16385, libusb-win32 v1.2.6.0 & libusbK v3.0.6.0
This is from http://zadig.akeo.ie/ and the download address for Vista or later
is http://zadig.akeo.ie/downloads/zadig_v2.0.1.162.exe
Differential Toggle for Gliders ailerons
This is a way to use the Throttle Trim buttons for switching the Aileron differential between 3
positions: Center: normal differential, Up: Split differential (100%), Down: no differential.
The programming uses a special stepped curve in CH14, one CF and one GV.
Neat, no frills.
Links to files:
Toggle Differential
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=6356577&d=1387867344
Stepped Curve for Differential
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=6356578&d=1387867363
FLAPS ON SLIDER WITH SOUND FOR POSITION
I control my flaps with the left slider. Can one set the the audio to play a track based on
slider position? Example " flaps takeoff", "flaps land" or "flaps 20" "flaps 40" dependant upon
slider position.
You should be able to, but you need to have the sound files for "flaps land", "flaps takeoff"
etc loaded.
I have mine say "flaps up", or "flaps down + the value"
My settings are:Flaps work of a slave CH20 , so CH20 value is determined by the position of LS. I use a
slave CH because I use two CHs for Flaps. You can alter my settings to work on the actual
Flap CH/s.
CUSTOM SWITCHES
CS1 a<x. CH20. 1. ( True if CH20 is less than 1)
CS2 ldl>= CH20. 5. (True if CH20 changes by +/- 5 or more)
10
CUSTOM FUNCTIONS
CF1. CS2 PLay Track. Flapdn (FLAPS DOWN) No repeat
CF2. CS2. Play Value. CH20. No repeat
CF3 CS1. Play Track. Flapsup. (FLAPS UP). No repeat
As the Taranis activates functions in order, if LS moves 5% 0r more it will anounce "FLAPS
DOWN. VALUE " and if LS is moved fully up it will anounce "FLAPS UP"
Getting it to anounce things like "FLAPS TAKE OFF" at an exact position is difficult, not
because the Taranis can't do it, but it is unlikely you can move LS to an exact position,
However, you can use the approximate operator to play a track when the slider is in an
approximate position.
Another approach:
I do this, it's probably not the simplest but works well enough. I tried having it say "flaps"
and then the number of degrees but it was easier on my brain to just hear "flaps
up,one,two,down" If anyone is curious the bottom half of my LS is for raising the ailerons for
crow.
11
Model Setting – Module 1 & 2
Could someone clarify if the internal/external module settings remain with the model?
Eg, if model 2 is using an external Spektrum module, when I select model 2 on the radio, will
it automatically retain the setting to have the internal module off & the external module on?
(once initially set up) Or does this need to be changed manually when required? Will this
effect the bind between the internal module & the Frsky receivers (when the internal module
is switched off?
When you set the model up you will specify if you want internal module active - extrenal
active - both - or neither. This is in the model setup menu. It will remain that way each time
you choose that model until changed. Each model has its own settings.
USING A CURVE TO SE FLAP/AILERON MOVEMENT
I have a Blu-baby that have 4 servos, 2 for aileron and 2 for flap.
Since i got my taranis a few weeks ago i want to see what it is capable of.
Is it possible for me to set it up so that if i move the aileron rudder just a tad bit to the right,
only the inside flap move for aileron. If i move the stick more the outer aileron along with the
flap will move.
how would i set this up ? any pointer ?
To get what you want on the ailerons, Set up a 5 point Custom curve something like:Curve 1
-100
0. -25
0
0. 25
100
This gives a 25% dead-band either side of centre.
You can increase or decrease the 25/-25 to give the required dead-band.
Then go to the mixes menus and change the aileron CH04 "Curve/DIfferential" box to
"Curve 1", do the same for the other aileron.
Then add a mix line to each Flap CH:Source "Ail"
Weight "50 (or whatever % mix you want)"
12
I would normally use slave channels and use them as source for the ailerons and flaps, as it
makes it a little easier to make changes. If you are not sure how to set up the slaves and
would like to give it a try let me know and I will explain.
Shifting Servo Center
How do you move the servo center on a Taranis?
From the Taranis Manual on Model setups, Servos section:
Using the Taranis Tx setup screens. Select Model screen 7 of 12, Servos.
3rd column for each channel is 'Offset' or 'Sub Trim' - this will set the centre of the servo.
The last column is 'Sub Trim behavour', which only shift the centre of the servo throw. The
servo will still move the servo +/- 100% of the upper and lower limits, without clipping or
deadband.
So you have a choice to center the servo with a small amount of clipping or shift the whole
servo output movement slightly one way or the other.
Where to point TX antenna
Every one except me points it at the plane. From my mobile radio days a few years before 2.
4 Hz I was all ways taught the the strongest signal was from the side of the antenna so I
always put mine side ways though I have tested with pointed straight up towards the plane
and had no noticeable difference in the Rssi as read out every 30 seconds at the distance I
fly it staying at around 80 db
Now that you have RSSI you can demonstrate this by setting the plane on a table - backing
up and having the RSSI displayed or read aloud as you point the antenna different ways.
Turn your body as you would when flying..you know..the flight line dance we do when
landing...etc. I've done this and concluded that the optimal placement for the antenna is
pointed directly at my face. I never fly behind my head and never at my feet - which is
where the lowest signal is with this orientation (I fly with a Tray).
EDIT: I found that when I had the antenna horizontal with the handle I would inadvertently
point it at the aircraft when landing. This was because I was slightly turning my body in the
direction of the aircraft travel (sub consciously) and looking a bit over my shoulder at the
aircraft.
13
Throttle Stick Adjustment
In going through my new Taranis, I've noticed that my throttle stick (left stick) feels different
than the rest, when it hits the down-travel stop.
Everything else, in each direction, hits the travel stops with a nice crisp "thunk", and stops
precisely. They all show -100 and +100 in Analog Outputs, and in the Channel Monitor.
Raising the throttle does the same thing, nice and crisp, but when I lower it, it hits kind of a
mushy stop, and bounces back to -99. I had the case open to set spring tensions, and I can't
see anything that's getting caught in there.
There are 2 plastic bumps, which look like maybe travel stops, on the gimbal assemblies. My
guess is perhaps those aren't both hitting properly against the case, in the stick-down
position? I tried slipping a piece of paper between the case and those bumps, then moving
the sticks to their end of travel. Other positions seemed to grab the paper, but throttle-down
let the paper slide out more easily.
I'm not trying to be overly-picky. But especially as this is the throttle, it makes me a bit
nervous, I don't want something to start to spin up at the wrong time (plus the fact that it just
doesn't feel right). Have other people seen this as well? Any thoughts on how to fix it?
I had what sounds like the exact same thing on my throttle stick after converting from mode
1 to mode 2. There are various screws to adjust things in the gimbal, and one of them
"retracts" the spring so it doesn't affect the stick. I had the exact same feel in the stick
(some "springiness" at the very bottom of the range), and I had to turn the screw a bit more.
It felt like it was at the bottom, but I could turn it just a little bit further.
Attached a photo of the left-hand side gimbal (that I shot last time I had it open), the circled
screw is the one to adjust (at least I'm pretty sure that's the one). The right-hand side gimbal
is the same, but just upside down.
14
Hot Glue Pot Wires to Avoid Possible Wire Break
I used some hot glue to "pot" my potiometer wires on each gimbal. I only did it to the pots
that actually move around as the gimbal rotates, of course.
It should help distribute the flex in the wire, and avoid too much of it happening right where
the insulation is cut back, as they go into the housings, which would risk fatiguing the wire.
Especially after Ohio_Danimal's incident (wire on gimbal broke causing loss of aileroan
control and a crash), it will make me feel better, at least.
I also experimented a bit with the fit of the sliders into the case. My left-hand slider was now
rather loose in the case, though the right-hand one was still good. I tried a small piece of
Scotch tape over the "leading edge" of the slider module, just on the edge that goes in first,
and faces the back of the TX. It did a nice job of snugging up the fit on both of them. And it's
removable/reversible, which is how I prefer to do things. Unlike gluing them in place, I can
still easily remove the sliders later, if there's an upgraded set, etc.
Differential Issue
For whatever reason, the offset value of a mix is applied BEFORE things like the weight
and differential. This is true in er9x/erskt9x and openTx. It seems to me that this is not
only wrong, but makes programming mixes more difficult than it needs to be. e.g. if you
have the weight set to 80%, then an offset of 25% turns out to be only 20% (80% of
25%).
On er9x/ersky9x, I've added an option to each mix where you can select the offset to be
applied AFTER things like weight and differential. This makes more sense to me, an
offset of 25% is just that, and differential works the way you expect it to work.
15
Perhaps an option to be added to openTx?
I haven't had the time to play around with a solution lately. But the problem still exists. I'm
sure there is a programming-heavy workaround, but as I said I haven't had time to play with
it.
I haven't tried using the "Trims" to zero out the control surfaces, but I'm assuming it will work
just like the "Offset" field in the mix. Anything "negative" gets differential applied, regardless
of whether it's an Offset, Trim, or a stick movement. That's definitely not correct.
I've even tried making my own differential using a 50% base mix, then adding another 50%
depending on x>0 or x<0, but I run into the same problem. Adding negatives and positives,
along with "not" curves and negative GV variables for mixes can get very confusing very fast.
Another Response to Differential:
Set up the differential in the mixer screen, only one line per surface is required.
Then use the Subtrim in the SERVOS screen to correct for the linkage issues, and be sure
to set the Subtrim mode to = .
The servos screen is there for exactly this reason, to correct for linkage/mechanical issues
without interfering with the "logic" of the mixes.
I have attached an example, with 50% differential and 50% offset. It will work with other
values, these just show full servo throw.
There is a second model in the eepe which uses the mixes to do the same thing, by adding
the offset using MAX. (edit - as I now see MikeB suggested )
This would have an advantage if for example you wanted the offset to vary by flight mode,
since you could set up a Gvar to control the offset.
Link to files:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=6365123&d=1388233321
Telemetry Ports
RSSI has it's own channel,
16
A1 is voltage at the receiver if the receiver does not have a A1 Port, otherwise it's telemetry
data from whatever is connected to A1.
A2 is Telemetry data from whatever is connected to A2 if the receiver has a A2 port.
A2 is currently unused on the Tx - but there is an analog Sbus adapter that can utilize
it. http://www.alofthobbies.com/x8r2analog.html
Also soon FrSky will have a UART with 2 analog ports.
UART Update – first look
There are two components (interchangeable) and A and a B. One component plugs into the
XJT module and one into the S.Port on the X8R Reciever. As you can see from the cell
phone shot to give 2 analog sensors (A1 and A2) a pathway via S.Port -- or a UART
device.
Clearly the UART component is a forward looking option so that other sensors which
require high speed protocol (upto 160 bytes/s) can be useful with the X series of receivers
and modules.
The biggest attraction right off the bat will be those folks who have a collection of legacy
analog sensors - since they can use the A1 and A2 data pathway. I was never a fan of the
itty bitty connectors FrSky used with those devices, so the servo pin sized connectors will
be a welcome change - although require a simple modification.
Well... now you know more than I do about the "S.Port to UART Converter with 2 ADC
Ports".
17
UART Info from FrSKY Website
Product Functions:
1, Serial port Data-Transmission at S.Port BUS.
2, Analog Signal AD input via S.Port.
Specifications:
Mode: SP2UART
Operational Voltage: DC 4 -10 V
Weight: 3g
Size: 44mmX15mmX7mm
Current Draw: 20mA @5V
Operating Temperature Range: -40℃~85℃
UART Definition & Data-Transmission:
Baud Rate: 300 bps (default), 8N1, no parity.
The Baud Rate is possible to reconfiguration within 300bps, 600bps, 1200bps, 2400bps, 4800bps, 9600bps.
Capacity: Normal capacity (Mode 1) and High capacity (Mode 2)
To Enable Data-transmission at S.PORT BUS, the Host (Type A) and Remote (Type B) devices are requiring use as pair and set in same
Capacity Mode.
Here we take the example by XJT module and X8R receiver to introduce how to Data-transmission at S.Port BUS:
- We definition the Host (Type A) is connect with XJT by S.Port, Remote (Type B) is connect with S.Port of X8R receiver.
(The Mode A and Mode B position is exchangeable)
- When input data from Type B UART port will output the same data at Type A UART port. Vice versa.
Obtain AD analog input via X8R & SP2UART adapter:
Many customer contact us how to connect Frsky battery voltage sensor with X8R receiver, because the X8R receiver is not built-in the AD
port, which is not support connection FBVS with X8R directly.
Now, you can, through this adapter:
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The SP2UART have two ADC port, supporting link with external analog devices.
It is very simple, just need enable the ADC function by SHORT CIRCUIT S1/S2 & GND is ok, and now you can connect /solder the FBVS to
SP2UART as connect with D8R-II plus rx.
MAC Users Audio Files
For any Mac users:
I made a script to batch-create Taranis-compatible sound files using MacOS built-in text-tospeech. It now has some optional downloadable voices from Nuance that are pretty darn
good (and possible to tweak for pitch/speed). Requires sox to convert files to the right
format since for some reason those coming out of the Apple tools won't play on the Taranis.
Available here:
https://github.com/jstck/opentx-makesounds
SETTING MAX ALTITUDE
I would like to be able to set the max altitude if possable,many thanks,Marty
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You can have the throttle reduce / close at a predetermined altitude. I plan to use 400ft as
that is a CAA max altitude for over 7kg models.
Method:- ( substitute appropriate numbers for the "??"s)
Set a Custom switch:- "CS??", Function "a>x" , V1 "Alt", V2 "396" ( settings jump 4 at a
time, so 396 is the nearest value below 400ft) duration "15" (keeps the function true for 15
seconds, even though the model should have dropped below 396ft).
Then set a custom function :- "CF??, Switch "CS??" Function " Saety CH!!", Param "-50 " (I
chose -50 for IC engines to avoid the risk of the engine quitting, with helicopter type models
you would want to use a higher setting, to prevent them dropping too quickly) and check the
"ON" box.
Safety CH question marks to be replaced by the Throttle CH number. (Example "safety
CH02").
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