WWW.UlrichModels.com 303 447-9251 Fax: 303 447-1406 Sales@UlrichModels.com ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Athearn Veranda Gas Turbine Lighting Upgrade Kit Revised 8-4-2010 Author: Steve Gill, Ulrich Models Abstract Note: If you have purchased the Veranda Sound Upgrade Kit, install the light kit first. If you have already installed a sound system, you will have to move the decoder out of the way to install the light kit. The Athearn Veranda locomotives come with poor DCC lighting that is very dim. This was also a problem on the original gas turbine model made one year prior to the Veranda. Athearn ignored the poor quality lighting and shipped the Veranda without making any improvements. The factory lighting also has the Mars light and headlights wired to the headlight function so there is no independent control of the Mars Light. UP operated the gas turbine with the headlight on but very seldom used the Mars light. With the factory lighting, it is not possible to turn the Mars light off and leave the headlight on. The LED Upgrade kit installs bright LED lighting and supports independent control of the headlight and Mars light. Figure 1 - Before and After (shown on the gas turbine) Before – Original Lighting After – Updated Lighting http://www.UlrichModels.biz 1 Kit Design Figure 2 - LED Upgrade Kit The kit is designed to plug into the 8-pin DCC connector for ease of installation. The 8-pin connector is in parallel with the 9-pin connector and is available since the decoder installs into the 9-pin JST connector. This kit bypasses the Athearn lighting boards for headlight, reverse light and Mars light. On the end of each lead is a miniature surface mount LED glued to a 1.5 mm fiber optic tube. The tube slides into each light mount in place of the bulb. The reverse light and Mars light LEDs shine through the light tubes into the turbine lenses in the shell. The headlight LED is mounted on the front of the light tube pointing out. It is installed with the LED pointing directly toward the headlight lens openings in the shell. This is required since the headlight mount is positioned between the two headlight lenses. Note that the bulb mounting holes are 1.4 mm and the light tubes are 1.5 mm. The mounting holes do require a little reaming; this is covered in the installation portion of the document. Installation This kit is easy to install; however, care must be exercised due to the fragile components. Rough handling of the LEDs/light tube assembly can result in separation of the LED from the tube. Care has been taken in manufacturing to provide a sturdy bond but it is possible for the LED to become unattached. If this happens, we will exchange the kit. http://www.UlrichModels.biz 2 This kit is designed for the decoder programming that is loaded into the QSI decoder sold by Ulrich Models. If you are using a decoder purchased from another source, the decoder must be reprogrammed or a wiring change is required. See Appendix 1 at the end of this document for the wiring change. If you send the decoder to us, we will reprogram it free. If you have a Quantum Programmer, we can send you our turbine file. Figure 3 – Veranda Turbine as Delivered – Shell Off Front Rear Installation Steps 1. Remove the shell and tape. The shell is held on by four screws located under the front and rear trucks. Once the screws are removed, the shell slips off easily. Remove the two pieces of tape that run across the narrow width of the frame. 2. Remove the headlight and Mars light bulbs. Slide the light bulbs out of the front light bulb mount. Pull the bulbs through the tape that wraps around the front circuit board. Lift the tape along the side of the motor cover to release the wires; pull the clips off the circuit board tabs and remove the two wires. There is no need to put the wire clips back on. Figure 4 – Veranda Rear Section http://www.UlrichModels.biz 3 3. Remove the backup light bulb Remove the bulb from the rear light mount. Remove the clips from the two tabs the wires are connected to. Remove the wires. There are two additional wires on these tabs that are grey. The wires must be reinserted into the tabs and the clips put back on. It does not matter which wire goes in which tab. These wires are for the tender light. 4. Install the Light Kit Connector Lift the plastic shield and plug in the 8-pin connector for the kit. Pin 1 is marked on the circuit board and is shown in Figure 4. The yellow wire (backup light) is connected to pin 2 and will be one hole over from the marked pin 1. Route the LED wires back under the shield. Use thin tape such as Kapon tape or Scotch tape to secure the plastic shield to the frame. Figure 5 – Rear Section, Light Kit installed http://www.UlrichModels.biz 4 5. Install the Backup LED. Gently use the #51 or 52 drill in a pin vise to expand the backup light mounting hole. Test the backup light mounting hole size with the spare fiber optic tube before proceeding. Using a fine tip pair of needle nose pliers, insert the backup light tube into the rear lamp mount as shown. Position the resistors so they lie as flat as possible. Lay the LED wires and shrink wrapped resistor on top of the factory electrical tape. Slip a piece of tape around the LED wires, as shown in Figure 5, covering the resistor. Kapon tape was used in this install. Electrical or Scotch tape can also be used. http://www.UlrichModels.biz 5 6. Install the headlight and MARS light LEDs Figure 6 - Front headlight installation Remove the headlight / Mars light mount assembly from the frame by removing the two screws. Take a #51 or #52 drill bit in a pin vise and gently use it to increase the size of the headlight and Mars holes. It does not take much to enlarge the hole so don’t be too aggressive. The Mars light hole is the top hole and the headlight hole is the bottom hole. Test the hole size with the extra piece of light tube included in the kit. Insert the headlight into the lower hole as shown. The headlight is attached to the white wire. Insert the headlight from the front. Be careful to not dislodge the LED from the light tube. You can use a pair of needle nose pliers to carefully insert the tube and then push it in with your fingers. If the orientation is not correct, it can be rotated from the backside with the pliers or tweezers after it is installed. Note: The LED light pattern is not always the same. If the two headlight lenses are not evenly lighted, remove the shell and rotate the LED 90 degrees to vertical. Some trial and error may be required to find the best angle for the LED. Insert the Mars light into the top hole as shown. The Mars light is connected to the green wire. Placing a small piece of tape over the wires and taping them to the flat part of the headlight mount assembly will help to secure the installation. Reinstall the headlight mount. Figure 7 shows the competed headlight LED installation and the wire routing. The wires need to be run similar to what is shown. The shell mounting posts are located so they are a major problem. When the shell is put back on, those posts will grab any wire near them and trap the wire between the post and the screw hole. It is a very poor layout. Use a piece of tape to secure the LED wires to the top of the Plexiglas cover as shown. Do not secure the rest of the wires at this time because the sound decoder has wires that need to be routed and secured. http://www.UlrichModels.biz 6 Figure 7 - Front LEDs Installed and Wiring. 7. Complete the installation Place a small piece of black tape over the Mars light to prevent stray light from escaping. There is no way to use tape on the rear LED fiber optic. Use black paint on the exposed fiber optic tube and LED edges to close off the light. Install the Sound Upgrade Kit next. There are instructions in the Veranda Sound Upgrade Installation procedure for routing and securing the wiring. Be sure that all wires are inside the shell mounting holes in the frame; any wires outside of the holes will be caught and crushed during the shell reinstall. F12 turns on the Mars Light. Figure 8 - Completed Install 8. Tender Lighting There is a 51 Ohm resistor in the light kit. This replaces the resistor that Athearn installed in the tender to increase the tender backup light intensity. Remove the tender shell by removing the 4 screws in the bottom frame. Remove the bulb from the backup light. http://www.UlrichModels.biz 7 Remove the shrink wrapped resistor by cutting it out Replace the resistor with the 51 Ohm resistor and new shrink wrap. Reassemble the tender 9. Headlight Notes. The design of the factory headlights for the gas turbine model is quite poor. There is a single 1.4 mm bulb mount pointing at the two headlight fiber optics. The headlight openings in the shell are located to the right and left of the bulb mount on the frame. This is not a good design. There should have been a bulb for each headlight optic with direct alignment to its respective fiber optic tube or a more sophisticated fiber optic design used. Furthermore, incandescent bulbs should not have been used in this model; LEDs are required due to their greater brightness. To compensate for the headlight design flaw, the kit uses a high intensity miniature LED mounted on the front of a fiber optic tube. Miniature LEDs have a wide light spread and are not directional like the 3 mm LEDs. Mounting the LED pointing at the holes offered the best light spread to support light entering both of the headlight optic tubes. Mounting the LED to the rear of the tube would make the light beam to narrow. Unfortunately, the turbine manufacturer was very sloppy with the installation of the headlight optic tubes. On some turbines, the optic tubes do not reach all the way to the back of the shell. On these models, it may be necessary to use the #53 drill to enlarge the backside of the headlight holes in the shell. I encountered one model where the fiber optic tubes were either not installed or had fallen out. I had to insert new Details West lenses in to make the headlights work properly. Check your lenses carefully; they may be loose and could fall out. If there are headlight difficulties after installing the kit, some tweaking may be required due to the above issues. Appendix 1 - Wiring Change for decoders purchased from other dealers. Our decoders are programmed for the rear Mars light on function output 3 and the front Mars Light on output 5. The standard QSI turbine file has the Mars light on output 5 only. We added Port 3 for the rear Mars light to allow the 8-pin DCC connector to be used for the kit install. There is not a function 5 output on the 8-pin connector. The front and rear Mars light outputs are both programmed to operate when F12 is pressed. To move the Mars light to output 5 for other decoders, the green wire from the 8-pin connector must be removed and then connected to the green-stripe wire from the rear Revolution decoder (P2) connector. http://www.UlrichModels.biz 8