Glen had been using the Vincent triplex primary chain and doing all his gearing with the
rear wheel sprocket. I wanted to cut the weight so went to a one-row chain and ran it dry
on two smaller front sprockets I made, 16 and 18 teeth. By using these and back wheel
sprockets from 56 to 72 teeth I could get a wider range for various hillclimb courses. Dunno
if this really mattered that much but it made me ‘feel’ better.
For a tensioner I just ran the chain on the original tensioner blade. The runs were only for
a few seconds, you know, so you could get by with this. The primary chain ran on one row
of the teeth on the Vincent clutch sprocket. I deleted the Vincent mainshaft spring shock
absorber and ran the front sprockets solid on the splines of the mainshaft with a nut. This
worked fine.
BH:What about your clutch and gearbox?
BW:I brazed wider ears on the clutch drum and set the clutch up with three solid Black
Lightning primary plates, with the normal clutch shoes. This required a spacer ring between
the primary cover and the clutch cover. Rigged up a foot clutch with a cable from the pedal
to the regular Vincent release and now I had a clutch that could hold ANYTHING, and it was
either IN or OUT. Nothing in between, but this was fine for my purposes.
Everything was removed from the gearbox except the mainshafts, the double gear and its
fork because I only wanted high gear. So now I had four neutrals and top gear.
To start, with the engine running, I would step on my clutch pedal, put the gearbox in top
gear using the indicator lever on the kickstart cover, raise the revs to a suitable level —
I could tell by the sound, didn’t need a tach — turn the throttle wide open, but controlling
the revs with the kill button so they didn’t go TOO high, then step off the clutch and the
button at the same time and let ‘er RIP! On the way up the hill, if I needed to kill power
momentarily, I used the button. This is the way I had learned to do it with the Indian for
years, and it worked like a charm. Most other guys did the same thing rather than use the
throttle — the engine responded to the button quicker than the throttle.
BH:The one-row primary chain evidently could hold the power, but I imagine you replaced it
often.
BW:Well sure, it didn’t cost much. You had to do that. Rear chains too. The shocks on them were
tremendous. You didn’t want them breaking during a meet.
To be continued....
BH:Beese, for the next part let’s go into the engine internals.
Reasonable Mods For Your Vincent: Part 5
Carl Hungness (Continued from Page 27 of MPH 730.)
KICKSTARTER SPRING and SHAFT: Once your kickstarter shaft is in place you may note it
fouls the exhaust. Vin-Parts International has come up with a shaft that is ¼” longer than stock
and has proven to be a very worthwhile addition. Part number is G83L.
I read of the modification whereby the shaft is drilled and tapped at its outer end. A ¼” BSF
bolt is installed with a washer to hold the kickstarter itself on in case you have experienced
somewhat loose splines due to over tightening the clinch bolt. Mine has been in place for the
past 18 years, and initially I thought I needed a new kickstart shaft. The shaft was easily drilled.
I have experienced severe kickstart slip in the past, a condition that has led to a fractured
knee (I read of this during my first year or so in the Club of an unfortunate who actually broke
a bone while attempting to start his bike). The G46 and G47 gears are held in place by a puny
little spring G48. When not fully engaged the gears can slip with the described disastrous results.
Replace the spring, better yet, buy two and wind them together and re-install. See MO10 for a
drawing, it is an easy fix.
The Kickstarter spring G87/1 is going to lose its resilience sooner or later and will have to be
replaced. Vin-Parts International specify they have a heavy duty version, others may have as
DECEMBER 2009
PAGE 19
MPH 731
well. Jacqueline Bickerstaff changed the spring in my bike on the pavement in front of her house
without taking the cover off. With a pair of Mole grips she removed the old, wound a few twists
of wire around the loop of the new one, (to make a pull rope), inserted the spring and snapped it
on. Then she cut the now offending wire and removed it.
NUTS and BOLTS and TOOLS: Here we refer not to the fastening devices used on our
Vincents, but to those that are not. In the USA the Whitworth fastener is easily pronounced but
painstaking to locate. We recommend www.britishfasteners.com Tel: 315 946 9400. Owner Tom
Caswell will sell a single tool or bolt. Also check Metric and Multistandard Components Corp. at:
www.metricmcc.com/catalog/catalog.aspx
To our friends in the UK we have to say: ‘You are on your own. There are so many places listed
in Old Bike Mart that specialise in British fasteners and tools we don’t have space to list them all.’
However we know that if you contact: www.custom-fasteners.co.uk they will ship not only to
the UK but US as well. Thanks once again to Jim Wilson for the addresses.
You do not require many specialised tools to fettle your machine, but a couple are worthwhile.
Years ago I purchased a pair of thin (1⁄8”/3mm) wrenches to accomplish E80 nut tightening. Those
are the nuts located between the brake backing plates and the forks. They are also used on the
battery carrier and speedo drive. Neal Videan now makes these wrenches available again and has
added a ring end to one that allows work on the FF23 head stem nut. Contact information at
end of the article.
Removing and reinstalling, particularly the front spring boxes presents a problem. You’ll find
at least three separate procedures for removal in Forty Years On in chapter one. Plus, if you can
locate a copy of MPH 522 the late Roger Haylett devised an extremely simple threaded rod/angle
iron device that is illustrated in the magazine. You can make the tool in about half an hour. Trevor
Southwell leaves the top bolt in place and utilises a rope/windlass to remove the bottom, so as to
make the projectile hit the floor and not the fuel tank if your operation goes pear-shaped on you.
To install and remove longer rear springboxes on the rear couple of pieces of aluminum, slotted
to clear the centre bolt and just long enough to go past the diameter of the can itself can be used.
Simply drill a couple of holes in the extended part of the aluminum and use a pair of threaded
rods to clamp the cans (springboxes) and therefore reducing their length.
Dan Smith gives me yet another worthwhile suggestion for working on our bikes as he notes
the new ratcheting combination wrenches, some with pivot heads are extremely useful. We won’t
see them in Whitworth sizes so Dan suggests we purchase: 7⁄16”, 13mm, 15mm and file them to
our respective sizes 1⁄4” BSF 0.448; 5⁄16” BSF 0.525; 3⁄8” BSF 0.601.
Ironically, while the USA is six times larger than the UK, our largest publication that caters to
the old bike market, Walneck’s, doesn’t come close to containing the amount of advertisers or
editorial content found in Old Bike Mart.
Consequently, we highly recommend Old Bike Mart for anyone interested in, particularly, old
British machinery. Contact: www.oldbikemart.co.uk Walneck’s website: www.walnecks.com
CABLES: While we know all of our cables are stocked by Vincent suppliers, some have gone to
extra trouble to locate adjustors in sensible places. Clutch cables with the adjustor 16” from the
clutch end and throttle/air cables with adjustors three inches from the bar end are available.
The Twin pull twist grip available from (at least) The VOC Spares Company Limited is a popular
modification along with a nylon throttle cable junction box. Coventry Spares displays a nice
looking brass cable splitter for US$35.82.
Personally, one of the best mods I have enacted on my machine is a device called the Throttle
Rocker, for US$10. It is similar to a shark’s fin, slips over the twist-grip and relieves nearly all
of the wrist pressure required to actuate the throttle. There was a patent argument over this
device and it was taken off the market for a time, but available in Canada. There are other similar
devices on the market that utilise Velcro to hold it in place, but I much prefer the naked version
as it can easily be slipped to a most comfortable position depending upon how much you want
the throttle open. E-mail: www.throttlerocker.com
MPH 731
PAGE 20
DECEMBER 2009
For those who have to construct their own cables in the UK we can recommend JJ Cables Tel:
01926 651 470. E-mail: cableman@btinternet.com and T. Johnson. E-mail: tjohnsongb@aol.com
We also recommend the making of a solder pot if you are going to make cables although not
mandatory. One can easily be constructed with a short piece of galvanised plumbing tubing,
capped and later heated with a propane torch. Making cables can be a dangerous undertaking for
the novice, (if you happen to be making a brake cable for example) so knowing how to ‘mushroom’
the cable itself and properly ‘tin’ and clean the plot is essential.
Once again, Jim Wilson wrote an article for The Clatter the Northern California Newsletter
Section years ago about using a silver solder with a low 430ºF melting temperature which is
perfect for soldering iron usage.
He used a 7x7 stranded inner cable as well as the associated outer cable that is much more
flexible and lasts longer than the typical 1x19 for throttle, clutch and brake. 19 strand cheaper
inner cable is found to break or fray more easily. The 7x7 can be put into service in a much tighter
configuration and still work. These are available in the US at both Flanders and Barnett: Contact
Info: www.flandershandlebars.com and www.barnettclutches.com/products/cables.aspx both
USA-based.
Jim also uses Magura dust boots to cover the adjusters (along with short piece of shrink tubing)
and advises the use of Messer’s MG-120 silver solder. It is cadmium free, low temperature, good
capillary and wicking properties and great for bike cables. It is available in a small kit and has the
flexibility needed to hold. Use 120 liquid flux or MG 120 paste flux. Jim doesn’t use a solder pot
and finds one unnecessary.
Of course a cable lubricator is essential to keep the easy movement. Contact info: www.
messerwelding.com/MG%20Products/Brazing.htm and www.scootertherapy.com/clubepage.
html Tel: 262 255 5542. USA.
I followed Wilson’s advice and successfully made all the cables on my Black Shadow. A friend
doing a multi-million Dollar Alfa used the Messer product and found it satisfying.
Wrapping up a new clutch/comp. cable tightly and inserting into your headlamp could prove
to be a prescient act as well.
CARBURETTOR PAINT: You are on your own when it comes to painting your bike but I want to
recommend the ‘silver sheen’ paint referred to in Original Vincent Motorcycle referring to the
coating used on our carburettors. The Eastwood Company makes a product called ‘Carb Renew’
item no. 10187Z that has been used on (at least) some of Ernesto Morales’ award winning bikes.
Contact info: http://eastwood.results page.com /search?p=Qandts=customandw=carb+renew
CRASH BAR: For some reason I have kept track of the number of times my own machine has
been on its side during my ownership. It has fallen over seven times and crashed once. In each
circumstance my Britax crash bar, a bar that fits through the headstock sidecar fitting, has saved
the machine, and me, from damage. It is astounding the bike has received literally no damage
whatsoever each time it has tipped over. Even during my crash when the machine skidded out
from under me in a curve and slid over 140’, and then flipped to the opposite side, the damage
was minimal. The VOC Spares Company Limited makes a stainless steel bar that clones the Britax
(part no. CB1SS) and it may come from the highly respected Vincent parts maker/rebuilder of
Maughan and Sons whom we know manufactures this part.
I milled slots in my own bar to accept a line of 12 LED lights that serve as turn signals. They not
only work great, but most say, ‘You don’t have winkers up front,’ as they don’t look at the bar as
being a place of origin for lights. I more or less glued them in on a piece of wood.
LONG FOOTPEG HANGERS: The hangars F52/11 and F52/12 are to a six foot rider, short. I was
able to obtain a set of longer hangers years ago, but no longer available. A competent welder can
cut yours and add a piece in the middle and your riding position will be much more comfortable.
With the short pegs I found it easy to get a ‘Charlie Horse’ in my (especially) right hip.
DECEMBER 2009
PAGE 21
MPH 731
AIR FILTERS: I can’t lay hands on the quote from Phil Vincent who commented something to the
effect of ‘It’s so wet in England that the dust is kept down.’ Thus some original bikes were fitted
with Vokes air filters that I understand did a pretty fair job of choking the engine. Fit a set of short
K&N Filters to your machine and your cylinders will be much happier and last a whole lot longer.
The Vokes have been reproduced with modern day filters by craftsman Steve Hall. They sell for
US$695 per pair and you buy your own K&N Filters. I believe they are first class reproductions.
E-mail: hallsmetalworks@aol.com
HANDLEBARS and CONTROLS: The stock handlebar assembly can feel a bit confining to a tall
rider. I fitted a set of touring bars, still available, and found the riding position much improved.
The stock dip switch looks lovely and seemingly takes about a second and a half to actuate. I
highly recommend you install a modern day turn signal switch (with turn signals of course) just
for safety. I used a switch off a Harley-Davidson Buell that is black. It happily befuddles the
onlookers as well as they didn’t realise a 1954 bike had such a device.
I am astounded to see the new style, squished rectangular mirrors installed on so many
beautifully restored bikes. You can still buy a new Stadium mirror that will mount on your
handlebar end, but they aren’t the cast aluminum ones of old. Nevertheless, if you go online and
look up any good hot rod supply shop you can buy a small round mirror that looks all the world
like an original Stadium and it can be made to fit your new bracket. If you are going to ride it,
you need mirrors. Remember, the guy behind you is using his mobile telephone to text message
his girlfriend.
Mount one of those cute little chrome Amal horn buttons on your right hand twist grip and use
it as a kill switch. It may not only come in handy one day, but with a little practice you can bump
it and your footshift at the same time to enact lightning fast shifts without fear of tearing up the
drivetrain. I know about such things when I get next to a Harley Sportster.
Your original cork based fuel taps most likely leak and articles abound on how to fix them. Mine
reside in my ‘Original Vincent’ box as they have been replaced with modern petcocks.
CONCLUSION: When you consider the vast amount of experience Patrick Godet has in the world
of Vincent motorcycles, his opinions carry very significant weight. Patrick is of course the man
who reproduces a new ready-to-run Egli and who also runs what is likely the most complete and
largest Vincent restoration facility in the world. This is not to say other restoration facilities turn
out any less quality than Godet’s, nor do we respect other opinions any less than his. Moreover, in
my estimation his comments can be appreciated by all Vincent owners, new and old. Remember,
English is a second language for Patrick and most of us can’t say, ‘What’s the time?’ in French!
Basically, Patrick is telling us he doesn’t have very many modifications that he would
recommend doing to the Vincent. He’s pretty happy with it as manufactured:
Dear Carl, Over 35 years of Vincenteering I have learnt a lot and still do. You might be surprised
if I tell you we do not do many fancy things on the 1,000cc engine.
Our 1,000cc engines are 100 per cent to Vincent design plus ET100 modified. Our goal to supply
reliable trouble-free enjoyable machines has more to do with the attention paid to every detail
and first of all before even thinking of building an engine:
It took me several years to solve the grabbing and squealing problem of the multiplate clutch.
We only use ¼” sprockets to allow ‘O’ ring chains.
In fact in the light of my experience in travelling long journeys and racing we do everything we
can to get the machine as refined as possible with maximum docility.
I have designed special breather caps and I still need to design a one way valve even though
our system works fine without it. The problem is we re-machine inside the cylinder head so it is
not easy for the average owner.
Every Egli wheeled out of here has an electric start from François Grosset and I am sold on his
ignition system as well which is on every machine from here when the customer agrees.
MPH 731
PAGE 22
DECEMBER 2009
I am happy too to advertise. I do it to wave the Vincent flag more than for the business I still
have a few more ideas for the coming months and then I shall be quiet again.
We manufacture our own crankcases and covers, cylinder heads, crankshafts MkII and MkIII
camshafts pistons for our big bore and many parts we have also experimented diamond like
carbon coated cam followers in conjunction with our smoothing by tumbling no rugosity
camshafts we use a formula one and motorsport process for our camshafts.
Our 1,330cc engine has a fully nitrided and then grinded 100 stroke bob-weight crankshaft
each side is one piece with 11⁄8” mainshafts. Our 1,330cc engine has our specific big port squished
cylinder heads which I designed some years ago for a 500cc racer project which has been
postponed. I keep the technology inside for my customers’.
My own machine is just a standard Series ‘D’ with improved breathing and ET100 modified
nicely ported inlet and exhaust port Amal MkII carburettors. Let’s say for the standard Vincent I
do not like modification, I love them as they are. I forgot we also have our gearbox mainshafts on
needle rollers and a seal and no more bronze bushes.
Patrick credits both Fritz Egli and manufacturer David Holder for much of his success. Holder,
as many of you know owns the Vincent and Velocette trademark names and manufactures many
of the exacting parts of our bikes such as gearbox and timing gears, primary drive and ESA, rocker
cover caps, liners, exhausts, hubs and spoke flanges, brake shoes, speedo ring gear, and the multiplate clutch previously mentioned as well as the new Rear Frame Member used on the Club’s
‘new’ Black Shadow. He sells directly to the trade so his name isn’t one we are all familiar with.
It took me a good number of years to make my own Black Shadow a truly reliable daily ride
and most of the problems I encountered were either of my own making, or a lack of knowledge
of the machine. I recommend those new to the world of Vincent motorcycles use the Club forum,
the jtan e-mail service and read through the many informative articles on www.thevincent.com
to answer most any question. Remember, Tony Rose logged 100,000 miles in a little over a year
on his Vincent in the 1950s and encountered only minor difficulties.
The machines were manufactured to be ridden and to be ridden fast and for long distances.
Ride them, wear out some parts and learn how to work on the machine with your own hands.
Both you and the world of Vincent motorcycling will be the better for it.
Again, at least a couple of dozen Vincent enthusiasts contributed to this article and they
represent the helpful spirit I have found throughout my tenure of my own Vincent.
Thanks to you all.
Contact Sources:
The VOC Spares Company Limited: Website: www.vincentspares.co.uk
Vin-Parts International: Website: www.vintech.co.uk
Conway Motors: Website: www.conway-motors.co.uk
Coventry Spares Ltd: Tel: +1 800 451 5113.
V-3 Products. Neal Videan: nvidean@optusnet.com.au (Australia). USA Agent: Steve Hamel.
E-mail: gearheads@comcast.net UK Agent: Vince Farrell. E-mail: vince.farrell@blueyonder.co.uk
www.vincentownersclub.co.uk or www.voc.uk.com: The Club’s websites. Membership of the
VOC required to access some information.
www.thevincent.com: A phenomenal amount of technical information included on this site for
every part of your Vincent.
voc@jtan.com: Highly recommended list-based e-mail service catering to Vincent owners. Send
an e-mail to: voc@jtan.com with the word ‘subscribe’ in subject line. To remove yourself, send
the word ‘unsubscribe’ in the subject line.
Maughan and Sons: Patriarch Tony Maughan learned the art of machining while serving in the
British Navy, and the world of Vincent motorcycling became much richer for his knowledge and
dedication. His son and son-in-law now run the firm and are very well known for their superb
rebuilding and manufacturing efforts. Tel: 01529 461 717.
DECEMBER 2009
PAGE 23
MPH 731
Terry Prince: My conscience won’t allow me to conclude this article without a mention of
Terry Prince, a man who has dedicated much of his existence to furthering the performance
of the Vincent. Terry has produced everything from complete cylinder heads, big bore kits to a
rolling (Egli-style) chassis. His products have received praise world-wide. Currently however, we
understand he is making very few parts and may ramp up his efforts in 2009. Tel: +61 245 682
208. E-mail: clmotorbikes@esat.net.au Website: classicmotorbikes@esat.net.au Steve Hamel
whose address is listed above is Terry’s North American agent.
Patrick Godet: Tel: 00 332 35 75 9656. E-mail: godet-motorcycles@wanadoo.fr
Trevor Southwell: Affectionately known as Clever Trevor, he has encyclopaedic hands on master
machinist knowledge of every inch of our machines. Does not advertise but is one of the main
behind-the-scenes forces for many technical innovations. E-mail: clevtrev@discali.co.uk
Sid Biberman: A Club Honorary Member with half a century plus experience racing and tuning
Vincents. A fountain of knowledge. E-mail: bigsid@webtv.net
Jim Wilsom: Jim is a decades-long enthusiast who has a proclivity for locating and saving tidbits
of information and websites relating to our bikes. He’s always helpful for technical questions.
E-mail: vinceotter@prodigy.net
Glen Bewley: Glen is another who has amassed a great deal of knowledge of our machines and
s
is an active rebuilder most willing to assist. E-mail: bewley998@bewleystudios.com
Who Is Fit, And Whom Should Decide?
Chris Wood
I have had an interesting week. I attended the June meeting of the VOC’s NSW Section, took
my car to
local body shop to repair the scars it had received in public parking areas and had
the
my annual
sight test at the optometrist. I have also seen the screening of the restored print of the
1971 classic Australian film Wake In Fright, had a reasonable day teaching at a high school and
attended both a speedway swapmeet and a post classic racing day at the soon to be defunct Oran
Park. Most of these things were connected to motorcycling, if only getting around by different
forms of transport.
At the Section meeting we had 15 in attendance, which in recent times is not a bad roll up.
At the meeting we were officially told by Martin Pederson that he and his family will move to
Tasmania at year’s end to take up a new business opportunity. We wish the Pedersons the best
of luck. With Martin going however, it will considerably put up the average age of the Section
Members who come to meetings. I think Mark Shortall will then be the youngest, followed by me
anything up to ten years older.
Bob and Judith Riches have just returned from a trip to the UK and paid special thanks to those
of the VOC who gave them both hospitality and transported them around. Bob told us something
which I had previously heard from Repco-Brabham car designer Ron Tauranac. When you get over
a certain age the car rental people don’t want to rent you a car. Well Australia is a big country
without satisfactory public transport outside City suburbs. Isolation is even often felt by some
living in greater metropolitan areas such as Sydney. Our politicians never seem to see the big
picture and tend to want to duplicate public transport systems in small areas around the CBD
(metro railway, light rail, heavy rail, buses and so on).
At our meeting one of our Members informed us that his motorcycling of nearly 60 years
has now ceased due to the intervention of his GP. The doctor thought that because our fellow
Member had passed the 75 year mark he had suddenly lost his ability to ride a motorcycle. I
have witnessed this Member riding on numerous occasions and have not found fault. His GP
has not seen him ride and the NSW Roads and Traffic Authority has not tested him. Now, apart
from riding a Vincent to Phil Irving’s funeral in 1992 with Ian Brock and Phil Pilgrim I had not
ridden a bike in 25 years. This year I was given a dead bike, I got it going, bought a helmet and
endeavoured to ride it down the road. I wobbled, had no confidence and was quite unnerved
by the ordeal. Because I am twenty plus years younger than the Member mentioned, without
MPH 731
PAGE 24
DECEMBER 2009
As an aside here, I saw what I believed to be a Vincent Twin go by in my motel parking lot the
evening before with its chain on the left hand side. Later inspection proved me right and then
I noticed it had a polished Norton gearbox, telescopic forks and the entire machine was fit and
finished to a magnificently high degree. It turns out that it was a belt drive/alternator beauty
built by Mike that would have done any owner proud. I think it is owned by Paul Irwin. Later Mike
said it was the subject of ‘much thinking and head scratching.’
Normally I could have enacted re-assembly of the right side alone, but I had installed a hex
spacer on the G50 plate incorrectly and the kickstart cover wouldn’t go on. Then Tony Cording
assisted me with the chain and rear axle nut, and I felt as though I’d never worked on the
machine at all. To add insult to injury when it came time to fire up the bike I had been kneeling
so long I put a puny kick to her and Robert Watson said, ‘Here, I’ll get it.’ That was the first time
in over 20 years of ownership anyone other than myself had started this machine.
The bearing worked perfectly, bike shifted as normal and I took my greasy self back to the motel
to get a shower. Great comments were heard at the evening’s final dinner and I’m here to tell
you that the VOC family is a fine one indeed. I only wish my own family had treated me with the
respect and care I received at the 2009 North American Rally. I rode home the 700 miles with a
sense of acceptance I hadn’t felt previously. Thanks to you all.
Dan Smith did in fact ride his new creation to the meet and encountered a broken pushrod
along the way. Ever the innovator, he was able to braze the broken piece back together and
grinned as he said, ‘Well, this time I can’t blame the manufacturer.’
There was well over a quarter of a century’s worth of experience working on my Black Shadow
and she responded beautifully to their touch. The VOC had indeed attracted some creative minds
and I was the recipient of a collective effort that put the machine back on the road again. It
was a memorable experience, but I do wonder what it would have been like to ride that six
s
speed Yamaha. Reasonable Mods For Your Vincent: Part 4
Carl Hungness (Continued from Page 23 of MPH 728.)
ADJUSTING THE GEAR CHANGE: As noted previously, the procedure for enacting this procedure
is outlined in Richardson. However, countless Members have encountered problems with the G61
tabbed Pawl Carrier Centraliser. The tabbed units are designed so we don’t inadvertently pop
into the next gear, the tabs are meant to stop the plot where it is supposed to be. I am one who
found that elimination of the tabs, or bending them so far to the right and left, finally solved the
positive shifting problem. Member Paul Zell wrote: ‘I drilled and tapped my G49 for two 3⁄16” grub
screws, one on each side pointing towards the center dowel, providing independently adjustable
stops. Never had much luck with the tabbed G61 either.
Glen Bewley had the same experience as me and removed the tabs. Thus far, I have never
‘overshifted’ the bike and find adjustment is now positive and I can feel the pawl click into place.
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FIVE SPEED GEARBOX: I can’t convince myself this subtitle meets my ‘Reasonable Mods’
requirement for your Vincent but there are those out there who believe the five speed gearbox
set manufactured by Quaife is a necessity. I have read both pro and con reports on the ease of
fitting. Mechanic Bill Jean had to remake the forks supplied. Rider Peter Bromberg says he has
done about 4,000 miles with one of the units and is well satisfied. Rider and racer Tim Kingham
had very high praise for the unit and specified how much he likes the higher bottom gear not
only for everyday riding but racing as well. The current price is £900. Contact info: Ian Skinner,
Sports Power Ltd., Monza House, Fircroft Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6EJ. E-mail: accounts@
johnsurtees.com Website: www.quaife.co.uk/vincent_2
We understand fabricator Colin Taylor can erase the old numbers on your kickstart cover to
include the fifth speed. Racer Steve Hamel had his cover stamped P N D L R. Tel: 39 0858 48372.
E-mail: colineng1@aol.com
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MPH 730
NOVEMBER
4672_MPH 730_November 2009.indd 26
PAGE 26
NOVEMBER 2009
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MBER 2009
WIRING: Complete wiring harnesses are available from our Vincent suppliers of course. If
you want to clone the wiring in your harness for a modification such as turn signals, there
is a company named TMS in Nottingham run by Tony Cooper. Tel: 01159 593 447. Website: www.tms-motorcycles.co.uk This firm specialises in vintage car and bike wiring and I understand
they supply us with our harnesses.
Member David Dunfey had Rhode Island Wiring do a harness over a decade ago for his open
Series ‘D’ and he says it was absolutely concours quality. This firm is probably the most famous
and respected in the US and literally demand they locate an original before they duplicate. Every
harness they make is listed in their catalogue. They will have a Series ‘C’ harness available soon.
Thus, they can supply original wire, ends etc. Contact: www.riwire.com
I ran my own wiring inside of heat shrink tubing, that I did not shrink. I glued the tubing (with
GOOP) to the bottom of the RFM where it has happily resided for over a decade. The installation
is ultra-clean and easy to keep that way.
While not recommended for concours judging, I ran all of my handlebar wiring inside of the
bars as I love the visual appearance of naked bars without the ty-wraps and harness.
WHEEL BEARING SEALS: The H47 Felt seals can be difficult to fit because of their thickness.
Most Vincent suppliers now stock what is known as a Nylos seal (metal and rubber) that is much
easier to use. I prefer the bronze grease retainers often available. They cost more but are easily
removable.
FITTING THE EXHAUST SYSTEM: When unscrewing your exhaust nuts, pay close attention,
and mark a particular fin, say at 12 o’clock as it just exits the cylinder head. Now you know what
part of the fin mates with the head’s threads when you re-install. The following tip is useful too:
Try easing the internal bore of your pipe nut with an appropriate sized flapper wheel. This was a
tip given to me by Bob Culver, and it worked for my engine — Stumpy Lord. To be continued…
Bonneville: 2009
John Renwick
After a reasonably successful debut at Bonneville in 2008, the machine returned to Burgess Hill
for inspection
and possible development. The cylinder heads were only loosely fitted, having been
removed for volume measurement after the AMA record runs. At this point I would like to point
out that the class is SCS 1650 AF which means max swept volume of 1,650cc sidecar streamliner
and AF meaning altered fuel. Altered means anything goes so I’m competing against allcomers
including the Hyabusas, running on fuel which again means anything other than petrol. David
Dunfey had suggested I was running in a pushrod class, someone else stated I was running in
a vintage class. Why do these people want to downgrade my efforts or do they just think it is
impossible to compete with the modern machinery with the old Vincent?
The heads and barrels were found to be in mint condition having done lots of dyno running and
the testing runs at Honington and Woodbridge as well as Bonneville.
The engine was removed from the chassis for this operation but replaced without further
stripping as the crank was as new. Once the barrels and heads were back in place I had a look
inside the timing case but all was well.
A nitrous oxide system was fitted for 2008 with the sole object of introducing a small amount
of N2O to compensate for the increased altitude (4,200ft). This year it is fitted with a complete
system introducing fuel as well as N2O in the normal way for some short-term power gain as well
as air pressure compensation. Quite a lot of dyno running was done to sort this system.
Other modifications included a rod system to allow first gear and neutral selection from the
cockpit to be operated by a team member.
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The weather was kind over the weekend so we were privileged to ride up through glorious
Pennine scenery on the Friday. Then, whilst some Members went into Newcastle or followed other
cultural pursuits, Michael led a group ride up the Coastal Route on Saturday, incorporating a
visit to Alnwick Castle. Most of the party then enjoyed good weather and scenery for their return
journeys on Sunday, whilst those of us who stayed on another day had some rain — but what the
heck, we can’t win ‘em all!
I am minded to arrange a rerun next year, around the same time but, hopefully, with better
s
advance notice.
Reasonable Mods For Your Vincent: Part 3
Carl Hungness
PISTONS, VALVES, SEALS, STUDS, FILTERS AND GEARS: The list of the above mentioned
items that are not stock is too long to include all of what is on the market. Valve seal kits for
use with unleaded fuel, seal kits for crankcase mainshaft, special exhaust valves, modified valve
stem seals, high tensile two-piece cylinder head studs, high flow oil filters, steel idler gears and
five speed gearboxes are on the market. Some may be exclusive to a particular supplier but it has
been my experience that most Vincent suppliers have precious few items that are exclusive to
one source only (such as the new eight inch brakes supplied by The VOC Spares Company Limited).
Hartmut Weidlich has an adaptor available to install BMW oil filters and ace mechanic and
Bonneville racer Steve Hamel (e-mail: gearheads@baldwin-telecom.net) has oil filters made that
I can recommend.
UFM CLEANING: You can remove the UFM and fill it full of nuts and bolts along with some
cleaning solvent and pitch the part into a cement mixer where the rotating action will most
likely knock loose the accumulated grunge. Once again, Conway Motors Ltd. has come up with
a reasonable solution with their Manhole Cover kit that allows you to cut a sizeable hole in the
top, rear of the UFM to gain access to cleaning. You then weld an insert into the hole that is
ultimately filled with a cap.
LOOSE ROCKER BEARINGS: Dan Smith, the man who is capable of creating an entire engine
from raw materials says: You are modifying a part of the engine that is capable of 200,000 miles
with no wear. The tunnels lose their size by neglect and poor maintenance. The best you can do
is chrome the spindles, they will never wear out. If the rocker moves on the spindle, you lose the
area of wear by over half and for the rocker to stay central at the valve. The pushrod and follower
action will cause the rocker to wear quicker. If your tunnels are worn they should be bored
oversize to clean, and new bushings with a 0.0001” to 0.0002” clearance fitted.
A modified rocker feed bolt and nut are available from most Vincent suppliers that utilises a
hat shaped bolt to snug up the assembly. It is also detailed in Know Thy Beast, page 159.
Upon occasion the ET27 rocker adjuster bolt will foul the inspection cap. Usually, grinding the
offending particular cap will cure the problem but Vin-Parts International makes a socket headed
bolt that provides extra clearance (ET27SP).
BREATHERS: I have built four or five breathers for my own Twin, ranging from catch cans to
Ducati breather systems.
One of the neatest breather systems I have come across is enacted by ace restorer Ernesto
Morales who is also an aircraft mechanic. Member Bev Bowen inspected the system and reports:
He removes the chain oiler fitting, T29 and the screw in the tank is left open. The stock breather
banjo pipe is plugged, so it will remain stock in appearance (to not offend the judges). After first
screwing down hard the intake valve inspection cap for the number one rear cylinder, a punch
marks the spot on the shoulder of the cap that is up (12 o’clock). He then drills and taps and
screws in what looks like a hose fitting nozzle. Next, a spare A71S breather pipe is bent in a
convoluted way so that it can be fitted with an oil banjo to the hole where the T29 is normally
SEPTEMBER 2009
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placed. Lastly, he connects the end of the pipe to the little nozzle with a short length of hose. He
has no leaks on his machines.
Honorary Member Sid Biberman, who has been fettling Vincents since the early 1950s
recommends the installation of a Series ‘D’ style breather cap to be installed on the front cylinder,
on the inlet rocker adjuster cap. He simply routes a hose to a one way PVC style valve, of which
there are many on the market (the Krank Vent and Bunn systems come to mind) and into the
atmosphere. There is a minor difference between the Series ‘C’ and ‘D’ cylinder heads. The slot
above the rocker is milled wider on the Series ‘D’ to allow easier passage of air to the valve
springs. Sid swears by this simple modification and has used it extensively. He blocks off the stock
breather using a sump plug.
Conway Motors Ltd. has a Ducati breather system they have adapted to our bikes that fits
unobtrusively on to the front exhaust spring cap.
Former Hon. Editor Robert Watson recommends using the stock breather with minor
modification. It was Phil Irving I believe who recommended widening the actual slot in the timed
breather. While I don’t have the dimensions at hand, I performed the procedure on my own bike
using a milling machine. You are simply allowing more air to escape, and of course oil. I made a
new fitting which allowed me to use a 3⁄8” hose rather than the stock ¼” and ran the exit hose
all the way to the back of the bike, under the RFM out the left side. My machine still passes oil
even after a rebuild.
Robert however claims virtually no oil loss but he invests heavily in piston rings that seem to
seal perfectly. Robert utilises:
Honda Car Chrome Rings: 85mm 13011-PT2-003. 85.25mm 13021-PTO-BO4. 85.5mm
13021-PTO-BO4.
He notes the rings fit right on the pistons supplied by The VOC Spares Company Limited and
others. He says, ‘The bore finish is very fine, not the coarse cross hatch we used to use, but done
if I recall with #400 stones.’ Robert reminds me that his mentor Dan Smith insists no ring will do
its job properly if the bore is not absolutely round, a feat not as easily accomplished as one may
initially believe.
I installed a Ducati breather with less than perfect results, but Derek Peters says the unit is
working perfectly on his Comet.
The aforementioned Bunn and Krank Vent systems appear to utilise one way valves and can
surely assist in attempting to contain a vacuum in the crankcase.
Website: www.pantherpublishing.dsl.pipex.com/bunnbreather.html for the Bunn and www.et-performance.com for the Krank Vent. Very complete websites.
The one system that has proven its worth is known as the Elephant Trunk developed by Ron
Kemp of Vin-Parts International. It consists of a casting which replaces the mag drive inspection
cover and incorporates a wire mesh filter and an elbow which accepts an exit hose. The system
is a demister, that separates the oil and air. It works extremely well and its only drawback may
be the look of the ¾” hose that now protrudes from the timing chest. Contact information is at
end of this article.
While I don’t have the precise quotes on hand, I do recall Phil Irving stating in his writings that
the stock breather system was at best marginal and he did recommend widening the slot as noted.
Time and again we have read reports telling us to block off the stock breather if we do in fact
install another outlet as one will cancel out the effectiveness of the other if we don’t. Personally,
I agree with the Dan Smith/Robert Watson in obtaining perfectly round bores and using the stock
breather system, with the widened slot.
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CHAINS: When you consider your standard chain oiler most likely dispenses more lubrication
than necessary and is very often turned off, our first suggestion for keeping standard chains
lubricated is to consider the fine product created by a motorcyclist who used to commute
between Glasgow and Manchester. Fraser Scott introduced his automatic oiler to the motorcycle
world in 1986 and it has proven to be a welcome addition to most any bike. Basically a bit of oil
is sprayed on the chain via a vacuum system each time you close the throttle. There is a Universal
Kit available that is easily fitted to our Vincents. Contact information at: www.scottoiler.com
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MPH 728
SEP
4552_MPH 728_September 2009.indd 20
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SEPTEMBER 2009
24/08/2009 11:35
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The advent of the ‘O’ ring (including X and W ring) chain has changed the landscape for
motorcycle chains. Lasting several times longer than standard chains, the ‘O’ ring variety has
proven to be superior in virtually every way. They are, however wider than our stock chains
and require narrower sprockets. Most Vincent suppliers stock narrower sprockets that
make installation a bolt on process. Aluminum rear sprockets may be also be obtained from
www.sprocketspecialists.com in the US. I highly recommend the installation of one of these new
chains to eliminate yet another minor, nagging problem in updating our machines. I installed one
on my own machine and have covered over 35,000 miles with no adjustment.
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT: We have in our Club many very accomplished engineers with hundreds
of years total experience in all manner of industries. One of them, Roy Cross has been a Vincent
enthusiast for over half a century and commented: I have fitted three multi-plate clutches to my
bikes, and would not have installed any of them if I had realised how well the stock clutch could
operate when it is adjusted properly.
Roy obtained a drawing that shows us dimensions for plunger travel, wear limits, etc. The
drawing has been submitted and hopefully it will appear in MPH soon. Actually, the dimensions
printed in the drawing are repeated in the story below.
Member Ken Targett put together a short article I find very useful and reprint it here. Ken’s
problem was not clutch slip, but it was extremely fierce, ‘like an on-off switch,’ he reports.
Adjust the clutch cable when the handlebar lever is fully pulled so that the top end of the G91
hits the abutment G94. Then adjust the clutch actuating pushrod with C42/1 and/or ET27/AS so
that there’s ¼” play in the cable.
Check chaincase seal PD26, clutch sprocket seal PD25, Carrier seal C18 and make sure there
is plenty of gasket cement on the splines of shaft G3. The clutch needs to be perfectly free of oil.
Smooth lift of plate: Check the spring forces under load. Using a set of bathroom scales and
a drill press, measure the force needed to press each spring into its cup. If they aren’t matched,
arrange them in order around the clutch. For example, strongest, weakest, strongest but one,
weakest but one, strongest but two, weakest but two.
Shoe pivots: If the shoe pivots C5/1 are worn they can be replaced, and if the holes in the shoes
are worn they can be bushed.
Shoe centralisation: The plungers C11/1, when both are at their outer limits, should just hold
the shoes symmetrical without any play. If not, you’ll need to tinker until they do.
Plunger travel: The screws C12 should be adjusted to allow travels of 0.235 plus or minus 25
thou for the plunger in shoe C7/1 and 0.295 plus or minus 25 thou for the plunger in shoe C7.
Shoe clearance: You need at least 25 thou clearance between the shoe lining and the drum. If
less, remove lining material.
For additional information on your clutch we recommend visiting www.thevincent.com
Master machinist Dan Smith dodged his way out of using the pesky 406 screws that mate with
the C14 pins. The 406 screws are ever-so-easily knackered when tightening their shallow slots.
Dan machined a new set of C14 pins and utilised tapped them for 10–32 flat sockethead screws.
Some Vincent suppliers have also made sockethead screws available for the pins in the past.
The clutch rod G96 that was originally one piece is very often modified to be a three, or even
five piece (as mechanic Glen Bewley has done) unit.
Glen Bewley is another who we found literally digested every article in Jeff and Lyn Bowen’s
books to aid in his quest to become a proficient Vincent rebuilder and from all reports he
has succeeded.
Roy Cross made me a fabulous looking little piece that nearly clones the G93 sleeve that fits on
to the G91 arm. Many of us have had the G96 rod assembly bore its way into the G91 arm. Roy’s
modification is a longer G93 turned around, and turned down so it incorporates 15⁄8” of G96 rod.
Thus, there is no rod bearing on the G91 any longer.
The three piece G96 rods initially utilised a ball bearing in the middle which Know Thy Beast
says had a habit of boring their way into indents into the adjacent rods. Thus, some suggest a
roller in-between the two rods.
SEPTEMBER 2009
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Because I have had the boring-into-the G91-arm problem I have re-Stellited the edge of the
arm and replaced the ball in-between with the Dan Smith recommended Tungsten Carbide 6mm
ball available from McMaster Carr #9686K87 (pack of five for US$14.89) before I obtained the
Roy Cross mod. Dan uses the 6mm as it is 0.014” less than the quarter inch diameter normally
used, and won’t bind in the hole. I heat treated the ends of my rods and have had no problems
since. McMaster-Carr can supply the oil hardening drill rod necessary (#8893K36). Heat it cherry
red, quench, re-heat and ‘draw’ the tip back to a straw colour. Do it in semi darkness and you can
see the colour. It will make you feel like a blacksmith. The original rods were 61⁄32”.
At the other end of the plot I know that both Sid Biberman and Neville Higgins have modified
small engine valves to effect flat and full lift. This mod seems to be a most reasonable one, even if
you have to fiddle with the length to get it right. Getting the clutch to lift evenly eliminates drag.
Sid used a 1964 VW inlet valve pushing against a BMW ball race, thrust bearing, at the clutch
end. He reversed the original peg (C42/1) to hold the ball race and the flat end of the VW valve
pushed against it giving dead level throwoff. Neville used a valve from a Mini.
If you have experienced a hole bored into your G91, you can reface the arm by welding on a bit
of Stellite, but there are many grades. Dan Smith tells me your pushrod should be Rc 60, the lever
Rc 56. The 4–5 point spread is used in industry for wear surfaces that touch each other. Welding
with #1 Stellite should work.
The one piece Black Lightning disc has been recommended for decades as it is always flat, lasts
longer and is known to give a smoother take off.
MULTI-PLATE CLUTCHES: All of whom I am going to term as main suppliers to the Vincent,
The VOC Spares Company Limited, Vin-Parts International, Conway Motors Ltd. and Coventry
(USA) supply complete multi-plate clutches that bolt right in with no modifications. Colin Jenner
at Conway Motors Ltd. is to my knowledge the only one who supplies kits for Series ‘A’ Comets
and Meteors.
In addition, Conway Motors Ltd. can modify your existing kickstarter cover to accept his clutch
adjustor modification or supply a new cover with the mod already in place. Colin explains the
modification: The kickstart modification is achieved by letting in a block of alloy below the G91
pivot point. This is then machined to accept ET27/1. G91 is then lengthened so that it pivots lower
against ET27/1 effecting more lift at the push rod.
Trying to keep up with the variations of multi-plate clutches on the market for our Twins
presents a challenge. For example, the knowledgeable Hervé Hamon of France tells me the 500T
two stroke Suzuki clutch can be used with no modification and is also extremely inexpensive.
I understand the V-2 clutch is no longer being made by the New Zealand company that
introduced it. It utilises Ducati innards and the only complaint I have heard coming from Justin
Mackay-Smith is that it is sensitive to dust caused by wear. He had no solution to the problem.
While the V-2 name may not be utilised, it is my understanding the unit is still being made
by David Holder (who has manufactured the unit for several years) and supplied by The VOC
Spares Company Limited, Vin-Parts International and Coventry Spares Ltd. in the US. Without
entering the politics of the situation I believe it is termed a ‘multi-plate’ clutch and has gained
an admirable reputation in use. You can be sure if Patrick Godet is using it, it is reliable.
If one digs back far enough I’m sure there are some politics involved in the manufacture of not
only this clutch, but many other parts as well. More than likely a supplier such as Ron Kemp or
John Healy from Coventry Spares or The VOC Spares Company Limited stepped up and said, ‘I’ll
take a number of them if you will make them.’
Neal Videan makes the V3 clutch that has been installed in over 300 machines thus far. He
utilises many Kawasaki innards and the clutch is stout enough to have survived racer Steve
Hamels’ Bonneville runs. As noted, Neal’s work is admirable. Neal also makes a tensioner blade
(PD9R) from British Crinoline Steel that is vulcanised with hard rubber to reduce primary noise.
Cost is AU$55. Contact information is at end of this article.
Hartmut Weidlich gave me a complete breakdown of the clutch he manufactures, and does
not advertise. His e-mail follows: I am tired of advertising my clutch — as far as I know it is the
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only clutch on the market that could be run wet or dry, is completely made from solid billet,
and fits the cases without any modification. I have sold clutches all over the world, the first
prototype worked in Peter Volkers H.R.D. now for more than 100,000 miles without the need to
change anything — even the friction plates are those that I gave him. We installed the clutch on
a camping place at a German VOC rally within 30 minutes.
If you need information, the outer baskets machined from solid billet aluminum and hard
anodised inner drum aluminum billet, splined with 36 teeth, hard anodised steel plates laser cut
with hardened edges on the 36 teeth for extra long life (probably overdone as nobody ever has
ordered new steel plates). Billet pressure plate with incorporated bearing for clutch pushrod, one
piece pushrod made from silver steel, six springs, six cups (billet), six spring tensioners (billet) six
locknuts (stainless) friction plates from a Japanese bike — easily bought everywhere in the world
for around US$50 — the whole set.
I used to buy the original clutch shoe carrier and modify it for my clutch — this proved very
troublesome as all the clutch shoe carriers vary and might not fit the gearbox mainshaft properly.
If someone wants a clutch I ask him to send me the clutch shoe carrier — that already fits the
bike — so I can be sure it will fit afterwards as well.
As I make nearly all parts in-house I need at least four weeks to complete a clutch and I need
the clutch shoe carrier. The price is €600 and a photograph of the clutch is on my homepage:
www.britishclassicbikes.de
Hartmut is also one of the ultra-creative machinists dedicating his talents to the Vincent and
he has gone so far as to create his own engine based on the Vincent design. After reading his
posts on the jtan e-mail service one comes to realise he has amassed a great deal of knowledge
concerning not only our machines, but motorcycles in general. He along with Sonny Angel are
the pilots of Max Lambky’s Twin-Vincent engine streamliner.
Bob Newby does a multi-plate clutch with belt drive and an e-mail received from Phil Blakeney
says: Bob is happy for you to publicise his multiplate clutch and belt drive systems; he wants to
sell them! I spoke with the gentleman today. Tel: 01858 880 009.
E-mail: bob@bobnewbyracing.co.uk
He does two ratios as a rule; 1.66:1 and 1.88:1. The 1.66:1 ratio is better for a kickstart
machine. He has made these systems for both standard and chopped Twins, and for many BSA
Gold Stars, Manx etc. The belts (40mm wide, 8mm pitch RPP profile, single, or double-sided if for
an Alton alternator drive) are good for 92hp upwards, as proved by some triple-cylinder racers
over the years.
A standard Vincent Twin setup 1.66:1 or 1.88:1 is £450 (plus VAT for UK buyers). The doublebelt system he mounted on a UK Vincent Twin owner’s road machine recently, and shown on his
website (the Alton generator drive pulley on top), was around £640.
From customer feedback, Bob holds that here are no major problems, apparently, after removing
the Vincent ESA; he claims that system was never really that effective anyway, and there is a little
bit of ‘spring’ in the toothed belt.
(Is it not so that the standard ESA really only comes into its own when hauling a sidecar?)
Obtaining enough lift for the multi-plate clutches has been an often discussed topic. As noted,
the Conway Motors Ltd. modification seems to have solved this problem. We found an item on
the jtan e-mail service from Paul Zell that seems worthy of inclusion here: Simply by replacing
the adjuster screw in the cover with a dowel pressed into the bore having a flat end moves the
fulcrum point of the lever down approximately 3⁄16”, enough to give the multi-plates a clear lift .
The dowel must be trimmed to give the G91 the correct geometry of course and it does increase
the effort at the handle bar slightly.
Naturally you lose the adjuster capability that is in the kickstarter cover as well.
Overall, I agree with Roy Cross. Your stock clutch can be made to work perfectly and we should
not lose sight of the fact successful racers Sid Biberman and Neville Higgins, among many others,
utilised the stock clutch for Sprint (drag) racing for many years whereupon unreasonable loads
To be continued…
were enacted time and again.
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SEPTEMBER 2009
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4552_MPH 728_September 2009.indd 23
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MPH 728
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ARE YOU GOING TO THE 2009 ANNUAL DINNER?
If so, please send your £10 deposit (per person) cheques to: Bryan Phillips (VOC), PO Box 680,
Orpington, Kent BR6 8WS ASAP. See the advert on page eight of MPH 726 for further details.
Reasonable Mods for Your Vincent: Part 2
Carl Hungness
IGNITION SYSTEMS: Your original magneto, restored with a modern day condenser will
provide you with years of service. Nevertheless, I recall having veteran Vincent owner Dick Perry
comment to me, ‘If you really want it to start very easily, and always idle, you’ll go to a battery
ignition.’ I used a magneto for about 15 years and it was adequate for the job, once I learned
precisely how to start the machine. Today we have more choices than ever before.
First, the Series ‘D’ distributor can provide excellent service especially if you have the unit
rebuilt. Roy Price performs the function and provides a new distributor for £165. He also rebuilds
the ATD for £105 and supplies new stronger units for £149. Contact information is: Roy Price, 14
Heron Court, St. Neots, Cambs. PE19 1TH. Tel: 01480 473 225. He is a regular advertiser in MPH.
John McDougal has a Harley-Davidson based battery operated conversion available as well.
Address printed previously.
The creative Francois Grosset has what is reported by no less an authority than Patrick Godet
to be a fabulous electronic ignition system coupled with proper integrated mechanical advance
available for €500. The Grosset ignition is fitted as standard equipment on Patrick Godet’s Eglis, and
it is therefore considered to be the finest available on the market. Patrick Godet has had experience
with virtually every ignition system on the market and would utilise only the finest available.
Francois and his son have also developed a small CNC machine and they are churning out
specialised items from motorcycle parts to artwork. We had a glimpse of some Perspex they
engraved with the Vincent logo, another of a pair of valves and a humorous piece sure to be loved
by those who are not fans of Japanese bikes. Francois is one of the industry’s more creative and
artistic men whose presence is appreciated.
Contact information is: Francois Grosset, Le Pont Ricoul, 35720 St. Pierre de Plesguen, France.
E-mail: pontricoul@aol.com
Tony Harris is the man who has revived the old BT-H name with his self generating electronic
magneto also with electronic advance/retard. The BT-H unit has also received rave reviews
and I am a very satisfied customer. My own bike starts easier and I now trust the idle more
than ever. Tony’s Twin unit sells for £510 while the Comet unit is £460. E-mail: bt-h@bt-h.biz
Website: www.bt-h.biz The devices are regularly seen in MPH ads.
I do not have enough technical knowledge of other units on the market such as the Pazon
and Boyer Bransden to give you an educated report, but both have been utilised successfully on
our bikes. The Pazon unit has recently received great reviews on the Club’s Forum and they are
concentrating on the Vincent unit so it is surely one to be considered. Their website tells us the
system was developed with assistance from veterans in the industry, Kirby Rowbotham and Bob
Dunn. Website: www.pazon.com and Vin Parts International is a dealer for the Pazon systems.
John Healy the man who quietly supplies Vincent parts in the US through his Coventry Spares
company spent a good deal of time one day explaining to me just how to install my ATD back in
the days when we didn’t have the choices now available. It is wonderful to see several units on
the market.
Last and certainly not least is the advent of a combination dynamo/magneto unit made in
Germany and publicised on the afore-mentioned German spares website. We have been unable
to obtain further information on this unit.
AUGUST 2009
PAGE 23
MPH 727
ELECTRIC STARTERS: The aforementioned Francois Grosset solved the electric start problem
for Vincent Twins with his kit that leaves the stock kick starter in place, and usable. Francois’
craftsmanship and dedication to the Vincent are well known in the Vincent fraternity and his
‘electric leg’ has turned many a Garage Queen into a daily rider. Pricing starts at €1,500, contact
information already provided. He regularly advertises in the MPH.
Master Vincent engineer Bob Dunn has also installed electric starters on Vincents but to our
knowledge does not provide a kit. Bob is well known in Vincent circles as being an accomplished
journeyman in all manner of things Vincent. Contact information: dunn.vincent@virgin.net To
date we have not seen his starter advertised in the MPH which most likely tells us Mr. Dunn is an
extremely busy man who may upon occasion be convinced to install an electric starter on your
bike. He is probably swamped with rebuilding work and may not market a kit.
HEATED HAND GRIPS: I include these devices because I find them invaluable even on chilly
summer evenings. I built my own utilising some phenolic that would just slip over the handlebar.
I wrapped the phenolic with 24AWG Nickel Chromium wire so it didn’t touch the wire next to
it. Then I shellacked the assembly daily for about a week to provide a slippery surface for the
rubber grip to slide over. Each grip is wrapped with one wire and both ends are fed to a dead
short. I fed them through the interior of the handlebar to a thermostat (later deleted). They work
very well at speed but sliding the rubber grip over the assembly provided an exercise in patience
and creativity.
I have just discovered the Aerostitch Warm Wrap Grips part number 103 for US$45. They
utilise the popular hook and loop attachment system so are easily removed. They draw 1.6 amps
The same firm makes a heated grip kit part number 1400 for US$27 as well as heated grips part
number 1891 for US$107. Tel: 800 222 1994. Website: www.aerostitch.com These are the folks
who make the high quality riding gear and their products are first class. They also sell heated seat
pads as well as a line of heated clothing.
PROPSTANDS AND CENTERSTANDS: If your Vincent has not fallen over because the stock
prop stand is too short, then you have not experienced the accompanying frown that occurs
when you see your bike laying on its side. Personally I had the lugs on the stand assembly FT118AS
removed and re-positioned to give a greater angle. Then I lengthened the stand itself and finally
installed a cloven hoof to the bottom. My own bike has long rear springs and sits high.
You can eliminate the procedure just described by buying a longer set of propstand legs
from Michael Breeding who also makes the Series ‘B’ and ‘C’ feet. His propstand legs are 3½”
longer and are made from 4140 Chrome Moly. They are priced at US$125 each and Mike reports
they work perfectly even with a 21” front and 19” rear wheel. E-mail: mbreeding@cnsp.com
Website: www.mikesindianparts.com
Neal Videan supplies either a complete kit with or without a 1970–1982 Triumph propstand
that fits through the lower sidecar mount. The Triumph stand is so sturdy you can use it while
starting the bike as well. The kit sells for AU$295 complete or AU$165 and you supply the leg.
Neal also replicates the rear stand and the attendant Series ‘B’ or ‘C’ end castings ready to be
brazed in. Price is AU$275. Neal makes clutches and vulcanised gaskets which we’ll discuss later.
Dave Hills’ tread down centre stands have also been one of the most welcome additions seen
in recent years. His centre stands are fitted in about an hour and can be used on any suspension/
tyre combination. The primer finish stands sell for £125, and are regularly advertised in MPH.
E-mail: d.hills@ntlworld.com
Another suggestion comes from Jim Wilson who says I use a Honda F4 side stand bolted onto
left side, FT106/8 plate. It must be shortened and slightly modified with a grinder.
MPH 727
PAGE 24
AUGUST 2009
SEAT AND TANK COVERS: G. Bailey has
been supplying original style seat covers for
Series ‘B,’ ‘C’ and ‘D’ for many years, each priced
at £35 as are his tank covers. He too is a regular
MPH advertiser. Contact information: G. Bailey,
127 Wrose Road, Shipley, West Yorkshire
BD18 1NL. Tel: 01274 584 095.
The VOC Spares Company Limited makes a
Long Dualseat, extended by four inches (part
number PR1BA) that is appreciated by all who
have used it.
Where will you be
on 29th August 2009?
If you’re not going to be
at the Club’s Annual
Rally, then you’ll miss the
unveiling of the Club’s
newly-donated bike.
OIL LEAKS: There is no possibility I can tell
you how to make your Vincent stop leaking
oil if you want to ride it. I have heard tales
of master craftsmen riding their machines
300 miles in a day and parking it over a white
towel and don’t doubt the stories. My own bike has gone for a couple of years at a clip without
dripping, but she’s leaked more than she has held her liquids.
There are a few seals on the market that can be utilised in place of the standard washers, such
as the A27 banjo washer. The two brands Dowty and Stat-o-Seal come to mind as well as the
seals provided by Earl’s Supply Co. Earl’s has outlets in both the US and UK. They are basically a
piece of rubber molded into a thin aluminum washer and work very well.
However, Neal Videan seems to have come up with a set of re-usable washers that have proven
excellent in retaining the oil that Phil Irving said was, ‘devilish stuff to control.’ Neal’s Vulcanised
Nitrile Rubber inspection cap washers even allow one to position the Vincent name as he chooses.
He makes washers for all of the bike’s applications including return oil pipes, banjo bolts and
pushrod seals. Since he uses distributors in the UK and USA we’ll list contact information at the
end of this article. Neal advertises upon occasion in MPH.
Another master machinist, Dan Smith informs me, ‘A possible oil leak everyone misses in the
kickstart cover is the drilled hole H. It has only a 1⁄32“ land between the hole and the bevel gear
chamber. The same where the casting is relieved around the cam spindle boss. I’ve seen cases
where the hole breaks into the bevel gear chamber or just comes to a sharp edge. I machine an
‘O’ ring groove in the case under the G50 plate.’
The ET188 little copper washers on your oil return lines are prone to leak and Member Tom
Gross notes, ‘I ream them out so a ¼” O ring just fits. They let me tighten the bolts just enough
to keep things leak-proof and not enough to split the little fibre washers under the banjo, which I
suspect, is where most leaks come from.’ I agree — I have inadvertently ruined several of the small
fibre washers by overtightening. The copper washers are punched from a sheet and therefore
not flat when received. Some judicious work with a file, or better yet flat sharpening stones will
flatten them.
The Twin exhaust lifter anchorage tube ET168 will never get rusty as it provides a tunnel
for copious amounts of petroleum to exit the timing chest and cover the pillion passenger’s
leg as well as your rear wheel! There is probably no other place on a Twin that leaks as much.
Nevertheless, every major Vincent supplier contacted now supplies a kit to eliminate the leak.
Contact information on each appear at the end of this article. You may have to dismantle your
timing chest to install the kit, but the work is worth it. While you’re in there, the Series ‘D’
exhaust lifter adjusters are recommended as replacements as they allow individual adjusting.
Conway Motors Ltd. specifies ‘O’ ring seal kits for the nagging leaks on our G4 and G40 shafts
as well as crankshaft seal kits.
Don’t Miss it!
AUGUST 2009
PAGE 25
MPH 727
Sealing the dynamo mounting hole
adequately will most likely bring very desirable
results. The best we can recommend is to make
sure you fit all the pieces including the ET164
hat shaped washer and use silicone carefully.
Again, Member Jim Wilson noted it is
possible to make a moulded seal for the dynamo
opening by using a two part epoxy such as
POR 15 or one supplied by the Eastwood Co. I
haven’t tried this dodge, but it seems like one
of the best suggestions yet.
Pushrod tubes, especially on the diecast engines are a continuing problem. I
experienced leakage and finally determined
the opening in the head and the engine case
were not parallel. Robert Watson suggested
the installation of aluminum inserts into the
engine case, properly ‘O’ ringed would solve the problem and it did. The inserts are grooved to
accept Viton ‘O’ rings to manufacturer specs can be Loctited in.
The use of silicone is prevalent today and the following from Simon Dinsdale is useful: Silicone
sealant can be very dangerous to use due to excess squeeze. I’m sure you have all heard this
before. The method I use on timing covers, etc. is to remove burrs (with a surface plate if you have
access) and remove all old gasket and oil by your own preferred method. Then, on the crankcase
surface smear a light coating of engine oil. On the other mating surface coat with your favourite
silicone sealant and assemble and leave for a minimum of six hours. Do not worry about excess
squeezing out. After the silicone has cured, dismantle the joint. A gentle tap with a rubber mallet
may be required, but the oil on the crankcase should mean the silicone will have only adhered to
the removable cover.
Take the cover away from the engine and trim off the dangerous excess silicone which has
been squeezed out.
You how have the perfect moulded silicone gasket adhered to the removable cover which
when bolted up will not stick the parts together but in my experience created a leak tight joint.
The cover can also be easily removed on the roadside if required and if the mating faces have
not been damaged, will seal back up without using any more sealant and the worry of excess
squeezing out. This method has successfully worked for me for years, but comes with the usual
use at your own risk disclaimers.
One thing to remember when trying to locate a leak is that it is reported that air is swirling
forward under your bike at speed so as to mis-direct your inspection for sure.
Among Vincent suppliers you will find most stock Banjo Bolts with a drain plug and crankcase
or Gearbox with a magnet.
Have you paid for
your Annual Rally
Meal Tickets yet?
If not, please see
page four
ANTI-SUMPING VALVES: Even if your bike doesn’t leak oil, chances are it fills the sump up
with oil every time you shut it off and let it sit for a couple of days. Conway Motors Ltd. has
come up with a dependable and easily installed valve that will solve the problem. Installed in
the oil feed line, it keeps the oil from entering the sump. No problems have ever been reported
in utilising this valve.
Draining the oil with the tubular valve in place presents a minor hiccup that can be easily
solved by having an extra A44AS fitting connected to another line. Thus, one unscrews the A44AS
on the bike, screw in the new one that is attached to a hose you use for draining. A kit is available
to accomplish the task.
To be continued…
MPH 727
PAGE 26
AUGUST 2009
The only parts of the trip that intimidated me was driving at night (I only had a daytime helmet
visor) and some of the extreme hairpin bends that I had never experienced before in Australia. I
will do more practice of the latter and be prepared for the former before I go back!
I planned several bike free days so I could enjoy a bit more of the of the ‘culture’ and rest
certain parts of my anatomy. Gone are the days when big distances were necessary, I averaged
350km a day. I always tried to be in my overnight accommodation by 1700hrs so I had time to
explore the local area, have a shower and hunt out a place for the evening meal. I always carried
a bit of local money for those small items but the Visa card was used for everything else.
I hope this has been of some help to a few of you planning a touring holiday and maybe Glyn
s
Baxter can add his thoughts sometime in a future article.
Reasonable Mods For Your Vincent: Part 1
Carl Hungness
The very first thing I have to do is give a hearty ‘Thank You’ to everyone who has contributed
to this article.
Your comments and knowledge are central to its existence.
If you are new to the world of Vincent motorcycles and actually plan to ride your machine
there are several reasonable modifications you will want to consider to make it a more
tractable vehicle.
One of the first things you should have is a basic library. You should consider buying: Spare
Parts List; Rider’s Manual; Know Thy Beast by E.M.G. Stevens; Vincent by Paul Richardson; Forty
Years On and Ten More Years (two separate books) by Jeff and Lyn Bowen plus a copy of Original
Vincent Motorcycle by Jacqueline Bickerstaff. The VOC Spares Company Limited and Vin-Parts
International stock most of these publications between them.
If for example, you need to adjust your gear change mechanism the advice you seek will
probably point you toward Richardson on page 76. Stevens’ work is not only a thorough treatise
that dissects the machine, it will provide you with a reference to locate every screw thread
throughout the machine and a materials list.
The possibility exists you may want to become knowledgeable about virtually every segment of
your machine, the problems and modifications that have been enacted before you. You will find
no better reference source than the two books listed by the Bowens. They are a compilation of
MPH articles over the past half-century that will give you an education unequalled in any other
books on the subject. While there is no substitute for hands on experience you’ll find those who
have gone before you have written about your machine and have been where you are going. For
example, you may not know how to set your timing to re-install your magneto. You’ll find a stepby-step article on how to locate top dead center, the first procedure necessary to accomplish
your goal.
One of my goals is this article is to provide, most especially the person new to the world of
Vincents, an overview of the machine and modifications that can be easily accomplished. Let’s
start at the front of the machine with our braking system.
BRAKES: The twin drum brakes on the Vincent were considered to be the best available when
the Series ‘B’ Twin was introduced in 1946. The Motor Cycle magazine did a road test in May of
1947 and reported a stopping distance at 30mph of 26’ on dry pavement. The Series ‘A’ machine
stopped in 27’ reported an April 1938 edition of The Motor Cycle. I had measurements of 22’,
22.5’, 26’, and 33’ in four attempts on my own Series ‘C’ and flat-spotted a rear tyre during the
tests. From 50mph I stopped in 64.5’, 60’ and 75’.
JULY 2009
PAGE 31
MPH 726
The Vincent brakes have been the subject of countless articles on how to make them more
efficient but at the end of the day, replacement appears to be the only method of achieving
modern day measurements. In my estimation, riding a stock drum-braked machine in a world of
disc-brake automobiles is a dangerous proposition made even worse if you ride two-up.
Several Members have installed disc brakes and it is outside the scope of this article to detail
the necessary modifications. Dave Lambert made a professionally produced kit to accomplish the
task. I rode Matt Biberman’s Black Shadow equipped with the Lambert discs and it worked to
expectations — it was perfect. Late news tells us that Dave has not sold a kit in over a year and
is not actively seeking business. Nevertheless he may be contacted at: 132 Beaufort Street, Derby
DE21 6BB. Tel: 01332 369 047. The chance exists he can direct you toward disc installation as he
has solved the problems in a craftsman-like manner.
Within the past three years we have seen two additional sets of brakes on the market for our
bikes. The first set is a twin leading shoe conversion advertised frequently in MPH. It is made by
Vincent Speet and in a note from rider Peter Volkers he tells me he was able to stop in 16.8’ from
30mph and 37.5’ from 50mph utilising this set-up. As noted, Peter is a journeyman rider who
has an earned reputation of being extremely proficient and fast. I know from experience to pull
a very good front brake on full chat takes perfect conditions, and a good dose of bravado. Peter
used only the front brake in his test.
The point is, the twin leading shoe brakes will stop your Vincent rapidly if you have the
ability to use them. Former Hon. Editor Robert Watson was demonstrating the efficiency of
his twin leading shoe brakes and literally locked up the front wheel at 60mph with two-finger
pressure. Robert is another accomplished fast rider who wants the insurance of knowing he can,
if necessary, lock the front wheel. The new brakes are not as efficient as discs, but from all reports
they seem to be the next best thing.
This system uses a dual pull cable system, supplied. You won’t utilise the balance beam (F55) as it
is no longer necessary. Vincent Speet also reports he will have old-style levers available soon as well.
Information on the twin leading shoe brakes is available at: vspeet@vsmmetaal.nl Vincent makes
regular and Black Lightning style plates for his units and are priced at €890 and €1,150 respectively.
The VOC Spares Company Limited is the exclusive distributor for the latest braking system
on our bikes. New drums and backing plates which are 8” in diameter are now available. A fine
colour photograph of the new set designed by Hugh McAllister is shown in MPH 716. These
brakes deliver 100 per cent increase in friction (braking) area. To date, I have not read of a report
of their actual performance and stopping distance. Like the twin leading shoe brakes, they require
no modification to the bike for installation other than making some new cables.
We understand that Eric Kruse of the German Section has made some Black Shadow drums in
aluminum with the liner shrunk in. He has used Ford Fiesta brake drums for the liners but we are
sorry to report I have no additional information on his work. E-mail: germany499@voc.uk.com
I won’t address our rear brakes because by far and away, the bulk of your stopping power on
a vehicle in forward motion is on the front. Of course discs can be fitted to the rear as well and
Dave Lambert also made a kit to do so.
For those of you who are using the Black Lightning style backing plates Russell Hartley makes
some beautiful air scoops with etched gauze. He tells us the following: Yes, they fit straight onto
a Black Lightning back plate I have sold some to owners who have fitted my scoops straight onto
the Club’s racing alloy plates. I usually sell one scoop, one gauze and three 2BA cheesehead screws
For £23.50 (you will need 3⁄16” whit screws for alloy plate I use 2BA or 5mm for the steel plate as I
have sold some sets to fit on other bikes) Alloy air scoop £15; Stainless steel gauze £7.50. Tel: 01767
650 049. E-mail: russellhartley314@btinternet.com
Jeff Bowen, for one, has successfully fitted a set of Grimecas to his bike and other twin leading
shoe setups can also be made to work, but none are a direct bolt on operation. For those interested
in the Grimecas see their website at: www.ajs-shop.co.uk
MPH 726
PAGE 32
JULY 2009
SHOCK ABSORBERS AND SPRINGS: Moving upward on the machine we can address our shock
absorbers. While high mileages have been obtained with the stock shock absorbers, it must be
noted our originals were among the first ‘airplane’ style hydraulic shock fitted to a motorcycle. I
believe the first bike fitted was a Velocette and if memory serves correctly our engineer Phil Irving
created that shock. You should remember hydraulic shock absorbers were new to the automotive
world in 1946 and the first ones had their share of teething problems.
You’ll find numerous articles on how to refill your stock shocks as well as cures to prevent them
from leaking in Forty Years On. Personally, I recommend replacement of both front and rear and
I believe doing so along with attention to our springs and rear suspension method, especially on
the Series ‘B’ and ‘C’ machines, can transform them into great handling modern day vehicles. This
is not to say the stock shock absorbers will not perform adequately when in perfect condition but
it is difficult to argue with more modern technology that is now available to us.
For years one of the most popular shocks to fit to the Vincent has been the Koni and I believe it
is now called an IKON. While positive comments may abound rider Mike Alexsander noted mine
didn’t fit without grinding the front mount and on the rear I found they bottomed out on the smallest
of bumps. They were returned and money was refunded. Contact: Recommended Service, 1064
Revere Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94124. Tel Dave after 1300hrs West Coast time: 415 738 9441.
E-mail: ikonusa@gmail.com Website: www.ikonsuspensionusa.com
The Armstrong brand has also been proven to be reliable. There is another shock named AVO as
well that has gained popularity. The last I heard from the supplier Russell Kemp had him installing
one of the AVO units on his own machine so I am taking it for granted the brand is well-respected
as the engineering oriented Jeff Bowen was the first to install the AVOs on his machine and
penned an article for the minor mods necessary to fit. Part number for the AVO is PA100/75. See
MPH 657 for a report. Contact info: www.avouk.com
A note from Chris Chant says: My Series ‘C’ Rapide came to me in the late 1980s with Armstrong
units fitted. 30,000 miles later they still perform nicely along with Series ‘D’ front (softer) springs.
My recollection is that Konis were good on the rear but rather too stiff on the front for solos.
A note from Steven Lindbloom states: I personally do not think stock shocks can be made to
work well and always have wondered what the high priced rebuilds available now actually do
besides a better seal. I did a lot of experimenting with them at one time, including grafting valve
bits from various later Girling shocks on, but they never seemed to work all that well.
The inspiration for the Thronton system seems to have been a comment by Phil Irving in one
of his books, that with good damping it is possible to greatly reduce spring rates, and greatly
improve ride and handling. He probably realised this too late for Vincents to take advantage of it,
and later improved shocks like the Konis were always limited by the stock, heavy-rate springs. It
was not until the Thornton that someone got around to matching softer longer springs and very
good dampers, with impressive results. Thortons shocks are made by WP (Works Performance),
but I believe the specs for that particular model are proprietary to Thornton and can only be had
from them, but there are other Vincent people who have worked out their own specifications with
WP. Similar softer, longer springs are occasionally available from other sources much cheaper, but
unless they are used in conjunction with really good dampers may disappoint.
Konis were just shocks, no spring, same size as stock, not terribly sophisticated, just a fairly
crude adaptation of a standard design to fit the Vincent, rather than something really engineered
for the machine. But late 1950s rather than 1940s technology so still quite an improvement
over stock. Lack of machine-specific engineering is actually, in my opinion, the problem with just
about all the Vincent shocks, with a possible exception of the WP since their modular method
of handling valving etc. offers a lot of flexibility for customising, given a discerning customer to
handle the road part of the development.
JULY 2009
PAGE 33
MPH 726
Spax, who has always had a good if somewhat cultish reputation for their auto shocks was
induced to make shocks for the Vincent once, but abruptly pulled out after they were sued by a
customer, feeling the potential market just wasn’t large enough to justify the risk lawsuits. They
had a recall, but many owners chose to keep them. They were externally adjustable, but other
than that fairly comparable to the Konis.’
Personal experience has taught me the shock absorbers supplied by Laney Thornton are superb
at both front and rear. Because I was involved in the auto racing industry for three decades I had
access to a shock dyno and tested mine after 25,000 miles. They were in perfect condition, and
I have covered an additional 40,000 miles thus far with them. Again, the technology for great
shocks just wasn’t available at the time the factory produced our machines. The Thorntons are
distributed by Dave Molloy who can be contacted at molloy@inrech.com Thornton is a regular
advertiser in MPH.
Here’s a note from Dave Molloy from my research: Carl, thanks for your inquiry. The basic
features of the Thornton suspension system are two fold: 1) the springs are about 20 per cent softer
rate than standard but are longer to give more preload to maintain the ride height and 2) the shocks
or dampers are a modern design manufactured exclusively for us by Works Performance and are
valved differently front to rear to match the differing spring rates. We do make front springs and
I make the one inch longer inner spring boxes to help align the inners and outers at full extension
which is one inch longer than standard Vincent springs. As of this date the standard front and rear
kit is US$840 and the longer spring boxes are US$120 a pair extra. Dampers alone are US$290 each.
Our German friends have written to me and stated: Our program includes gas shock absorbers
made in the original style as well as improved cylinder heads, a combined dynamo/ignition system
etc. The website to check is: www.vincentsparesgermany.com
Information supplied by: Michael M. Burkert, Ernst G. Ahrens GmbH, Wendenstrasse 29 — 20097
Hamburg Germany. Tel: +49 40 232384. Fax: ++49 40 232387. E-mail: michael.burkert@egah.de
Website: www.egah.de
I have not seen the gas shocks (or other products) noted in the above e-mail but have no doubt
the craftsmanship is first-class. I am surprised and saddened the German products have not
been advertised, or publicised in our MPH pages. First, we know MPH Hon. Editor Graham Smith
will gladly publicise new products for our bikes, and secondly it seems only reasonable anyone
making a Vincent part would surely want to inform riders worldwide and the MPH is the natural
publication to do so.
Rider David Dunfey has seriously addressed the spring questions by actually having some
new front springs made. His are 14” length and had two rates made: 75lbs/in and 110lbs/in.
Comparatively the Thorntons are around 50-60lbs/in spring rate. David’s theory is that the stock
springs must be compressed at least three inches which means they have a tendency to extend
the front end. The shorter springs want to ‘settle’ down from full extension. The 75lb springs
were designed for the Comet and the 110lb for a Twin. In practice David’s springs have proven
successful, plus they can be installed without the use of a compression tool.
David didn’t make the springs as a business venture but some are available through Sam
Manganaro. E-mail: hrd998@verizon.net David is hoping the VOC Spares Company Limited or
Thornton will be impressed enough to make them available.
Colin Jenner of Conway Motors has provided me with an impressive list of mods he makes
for the Vincent which includes the longer Petteford springs popular for decades as well as alloy
racing type brake plates and he notes he makes, ‘modified and improved Vincent dampers.’ He
also supplies heavier front brake cables with longer adjustors. The Petteford springs are the same
wire diameter as stock, just longer.
Veteran Vincenteer Justin Mackay-Smith (the VOC’s Advertising Manager) had some longer
springs (and rear spring boxes) made that work perfectly on my bike. Justin was not interested in
going into the spring business but it is entirely possible to clone what he made as I had springs
wound to my specification in England once. He can give you the specification.
MPH 726
PAGE 34
JULY 2009
Concours judging aside, we have often heard the very reasonable argument stating basically
if a particular technological improvement had been available at the time, the originators of
our machines would have included it. By the mid-1950s when the last Series ‘C’ and ‘D’s were
produced, there had been improvements in shock absorbers and the disc brake was at least being
introduced on some racing vehicles. Equally as important to me is the change in the method of
supporting the rear of the seat. Our Series ‘B’s and ‘C’s had the seat hooked directly to the rear
swing arm assembly which caused the back of the seat to rise and fall half the distance the rear
wheel travelled up and down. The factory fully sprung the rear wheel on the Series ‘D’ by running
struts downward which ultimately connected to the engine. Countless owners of the prior series
machines have copied the arrangement and have seen marked improvement in ride and handling.
Personally, I wouldn’t want to ride a machine with the stock struts after experiencing the handling
after deleting them. It is a simple mod to make struts and connect them to the FT108 Footrest
Plates. On my own machine I spent countless hours fabricating a goofy looking battery carrier
that ultimately cantilevers its way over the rear mudguard, holds two passengers and the largest
panniers I have ever seen on a Vincent.
Speaking of panniers there is a great looking photograph of what are called stock Vincent
panniers on page 219 of Know Thy Beast. While painfully small their design and construction is
superb. Member Derek Sayer supersized the design and has produced a few sets that are equally
as gorgeous, but we haven’t seen them advertised in the past several years. It is of course still
possible to fit the once very popular Craven bags. However, even author E.M.G. Stevens said of
the Craven mounting system they are, ‘positioned too far back and too high, whilst the system
lacks the necessary rigidity.’
Consequently you are pretty much on your own when it comes to fitting a set of panniers
to your machine. I believe you will find the possibilities much greater if you do in fact unhook
the rear of the seat from the swing arm assembly and consider building brackets that can be
mounted to the seat itself. You will undoubtedly achieve a better handling vehicle by allowing
the rear wheel to be fully sprung. Bear in mind what rider Mike Hebb reminded us about setting
the rear chain tension: ‘The rear chain is at its tightest when there is a straight line between the
drive sprocket center, the RFM pivot and the driven (rear) sprocket center. Raising or lowering the
RFM above or below this line will only loosen the chain.’
As we are riding what the designers called ‘a high-speed long-distance touring machine’ it
seems to me to be a sad state no one has come up with an improvement for fitting a large set
of panniers to our bikes.
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS — TANK SLAPPERS
The original ¼” steel balls, 20 of them are required for each bearing and upon occasion the
bottom cup has been found to be loose. Christian Patzke has created a tapered roller conversion
kit for all Vincent H.R.D. head races and reports he has sold over 100 of the units that are
definitely a good idea to install. A minor amount of material must be removed at the bottom
of the bearing housing to allow the cage to clear. This can be machined, or even ground with a
rotary hand tool. E-mail: info@patzke-fahrzeugbau.de Website: www.patzke-fahrzeugbau.de
The Vincent, along with a multitude of other motorcycles can experience a phenomena known
to motorcyclists as a ‘tank slapper’ whereby the front wheel will shake violently from side to side.
I believe the engineering term for this condition is dynamic coupling. You will feel as though
the machine is a piece of spaghetti attempting to throw you off into oblivion. Many of us have
experienced this uncontrollable condition and the very first question asked is, ‘Did you have the
steering damper tight?’ Well, not tight, but just biting. You don’t want to ride your Vincent with
a loose steering damper. In fact, many have installed an exterior steering damper in the form of
a gas-filled shock that ultimately attaches to the front cylinder head. You’ll find a how-to-do it
in Forty Years On. These wave like forces pass through the machine vertically, horizontally and
laterally and are deadly. You want your front end in perfect condition.
JULY 2009
PAGE 35
MPH 726
Alternators and Ignition: Electrical System: The reader should bear in mind that I’m not
an electronically oriented individual but one who has simply paid attention to the victories and
vagaries of the Vincent electrical system, especially after experiencing significant problems with
the standard system.
We know the standard voltage regulators of yesteryear have been much improved upon by
the advent of the solid state regulator. I can report from experience my old Miller generator
performed brilliantly for about a decade after having it rewound along with the utilisation of a
Ken Bell regulator. Sadly, Ken has passed away and after many years of usage so did the regulator
I installed on my bike. It ran a 60 watt quartz halogen headlight bulb and my heated hand grips
admirably. I did not find a replacement that worked as well, so I ultimately opted for a unit known
as a McDouglator.
The McDouglator was conceived by John McDougal when a friend brought him a Kubota tractor
alternator. John devised a gear case to drive the unit that utilises a set of gears that literally
clone our cam drive gears. I believe he has sold well over one hundred units that have performed
perfectly. I know mine has, and I have heard nothing but great reports on the installation. John
doesn’t advertise and the only way I know of contacting him is via telephone on: 604 327 1019
or write to him at: 82E. 50th Avenue, Vancouver, BC V5X 1A2. There is a detailed article about
the unit on www.thevincent.com Of course the alternator is 12v and since it was designed for
industrial usage it is trustworthy on our bikes and is a direct bolt-on unit with no modifications.
John uses the Kubota regulator and he has attempted to destruct it in all manner of operations
and it has passed the most rigid tests. The regulator is large and won’t come close to fitting in
the old stock case, so I mounted mine under the battery carrier and put the stock one, empty in
its usual position so the passer-by glances and doesn’t notice the whole plot has been modified.
One of the most popular generating units on the market today for our bikes has been developed
by Paul Hamon and is called the Alton. Paul has had, I believe three incantations of his charging
system and the latest has received magnificent praise from users world-wide. Paul also supplies
a modern rectifying regulator (negative earth) and promises a two year replacement warranty. I
can report from experience Paul is a gentleman of the first order to do business with and we in
the motorcycle world are fortunate to have a man of his dedication and craftsmanship interested
in our hobby. Tel: +33 298 283 575. E-mail: formats@blue-mail.com
There is yet another reliable system available developed by Norman Walker and Dick Sherwin
that uses a Citroën 2CV alternator which will provide 12v and 30 amps. We have not seen the
kit advertised but have heard many testimonials as to its efficiency. The alternator is belt driven
and of course bears no resemblance to the stock set-up. Contact information is: Dick Sherwin
e-mail: dicksherwin@btinternet.com and Norman Walker e-mail: enw07@btinternet.com
There are numerous voltage regulators on the market which will provide good service but it is
outside the scope of this article for me to compare them all. I refer the readership to the popular
website www.thevincent.com and search under ‘Electrics’ to gain some knowledge. Overall,
most of our Vincent suppliers can make regulator recommendations and many are supplying
units that fit into the stock Miller cases. It has been reported some units actually leak amperage
and may cause you a dead battery within a fortnight, so research is suggested.
Hartmut Weidlich, versatile machinist and Vincent rider who hails from Germany notes: If an
Alton is used any regulator from a Jap bike that has permanent magnets in the flywheel such as RD
250/350 or SR/XT 500 will work.
Doug Wood the man who set up the jtan e-mail service dedicated to the Vincent is also a
magneto and dynamo restoration man. He notes some of his customers still insist upon restoration
of their old electro-mechanical regulators as opposed to replacing them with the modern units.
MPH 726
PAGE 38
JULY 2009
LIGHTS and BULBS: Given our modern technology there are more options for lighting your
vehicle than ever before. Member Paul Goff at: www.norbsa02.freeuk.com (and a frequent MPH
advertiser) offers us an alternative to fitting a modern reflector in the standard headlight shell
by supplying a line of quartz halogen bulbs with the original Bayonet cap and British pre-focus
bases. They snap into the existing headlight and provide much better lights. They are available
in both 6v and 12v versions. Paul also supplies LED conversions for the stock tail lights that are
brighter. He supplies daytime pilot bulbs as well.
There are several reflectors you can fit into either the 6½” or 7” headlight shells that will
accept quartz halogen bulbs. Member Jim Wilson has researched many units and gives me
the following: The Hela 7003 and the Puma 440-498 0638 will work in the ‘T’ clip variety while
the 7” split rim will accept the Hella #1A6 003 402 812 12v unit 154 or #70003 fits the 6½”
‘T’ clip while the #70476 fits the 6½” ‘T’ clip. The only contact we have for Puma is via e-mail: info@puma-access.com
I found that a Honda V-45 unit from a 1982–1983 bike snaps into the original clips with no
modification. However the outer glass on this unit is caulked in place and must be broken out
first. I have run mine for about 15 years. I am told a Suzuki GS500E from the mid-1990s will
also fit and also a Honda Super Dream unit #CB2 50N for UK applications that dips to the right.
Steven Lindbloom reminds me that you can use any 7” light unit you like in the 6½” shell if you
utilise the Dietz reproduction rims.
Jim Wilson also reminded me that Chicago Section Member Paul Holdsworth and Glen Shriver
made a deal with Radiantz to make 50 LED conversions for the tail-light assembly a few years
back that had 46 dual filament 12v bulbs and three white bulbs for the number plate. The
Section sold all the units but Radiantz may still supply the internals. Contact: 96106 Ferrelo Road,
Brookings, OR 97415 USA. Tel: 877 469 4241.
BATTERIES: We include the following only because this unit has such a high amp hour rating and
will fit inside an Exide case. Information provided by Mike Hebb:
It fits very nicely and puts out 14 amp hours which is unusually high for a small 6v. Size is
2 3⁄4”x 4 3⁄16” x 51⁄2”. Called the dealers and the price was US$29, two years ago www.parmakusa.com/additional/parts.htm
I am utilising a Yuasa YTX7A-BS 12v battery that is just a tad tall for the Exide case and is
rated at six amp hours. The gel cell batteries have also gained popularity. Knowledgeable Trevor
Southwell suggests a Hawker Genesis or Odyssey unit.
A hollow black battery case and shell top, part number 99-920, cost US$54.56 is available
from www.waldridge.com as well as from many Vincent suppliers.
To be continued…
THE WORLD-FAMOUS HEVER RALLY 2009
M
A1
M25
1
A2
6
1
A2
M20
If you have never been before, why not come along and see what
you have been missing?A127Usual
M40
Southend-o
3
format — see MPH May/July 2007 and August 2008 (numbers 700, 702
and 715 for details)
LONDON
A1 or e-mail,
Sheerness
write or phone John Sayer at the South London Section HQ. M4
Rochester
A2
Heathrow Airport
0
A2
This years features include:
M3
49
A2
M2
M26
The VOC Spares Company Limited will be displaying their wares. M23 M25
A25
52
Maidstone
Ca
A2
Sevenoaks
The Bring ‘n’ Buy has been enhanced. More details next month.
Edenbridge
Gatwick Airport
1
A2
PAGE 39
2
A2
A24
JULY 2009
Tonbridge
East Tunbridge
Grinstead Wells
A23
Call 020 8303 3652 for more information
Crawley
A264
M
20
Ashford
A259
MPH 726
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