Perfect Planting!
Tips for creating and maintaining
beautiful long-lasting gardens!
Defining Your Space
Any successful garden or beautification project starts with proper planning.
Here are some important things to consider:

Give some thought to how the space will be used. Is it viewable only from a
distance, can visitors walk through or stop to reflect on a bench, will it
enhance a building or structure?

Decide if you’d like your garden to have a particular design purpose. There
are many themes to consider, including biblical, historical, butterfly, color,
fragrance, heirloom or rain gardens.

Start by making a site plan of existing plants and structures then sketch in
new plants to be added keeping in mind mature height and width as well as
color and bloom time.

Draw your dream garden. Be creative, have fun, incorporate color and
shapes! Remember, you can add to or change as you get further in your
planning process.
“I garden because it’s play disguised as
work, because as an adult, I can think of
no other way to justify spending so much
time outdoors.”
Pamela Page
“Why I Garden”
Page 1
Diagnosing Your Site
To ensure successful planting, thoroughly diagnose
your site. You may ultimately need to adjust your
plant choices to suit the conditions you observe. Make
sure to check the following:

Restricted root space caused by underground obstacles, asphalt,
concrete, or compacted soil.

De-icing salt damage potential in areas near walkways and roads.

Potential for damage by deer. (see resources for tips on deer and your garden)

Soil conditions: wet/poor drainage, dry/prone to drought, low fertility

Soil texture: light, dry, sandy, heavy, clay, loamy, etc.

Available light: full sun, partial sun, shade, deep shade, etc.

Exposure: windy, reflected light, heavy snow build up, etc.

Location: grade change, level, sloping, near utility lines, bare ground, grassy,
weedy, etc.

Physical barriers: overhead wires, limbs, branches, building overhang, etc.
Right Plant — Right Place
Pay careful attention to selecting appropriate plants. It is important to consider the time and
duration of bloom, sun/shade tolerance, water needs, and more. As a general rule of thumb,
choose pest resistant, drought tolerant and native species whenever possible.
Here are some
helpful tips when choosing plants:

Trees and shrubs are generally very sustainable and require minimal fertilizing and watering
once established.

Perennials have long lives, add color and texture, improve the environment, and need little
care once established. Tip: short perennials generally bloom early in the season, while taller
ones bloom later.

Annuals provide instant, seasonal color and bring a vibrancy to your gardens but require
consistent watering and deadheading.

Ground covers are a good way to fill in tough spots such as embankments or under trees.
Page 2
Page 3
Elements of Design
Form
Think about how the plants you have chosen will grow.
Understand their forms — vertical, horizontal, creeping,
climbing, etc. — and try to achieve balance in your design.
You can integrate different plant forms in the same bed in
order to achieve contrast or variation, or instead choose
plants that bear the same form to help achieve unity in
your design.
An example of contrasting forms.
Line
Consider the shape of planting beds. The form of a line
creates a sense of direction as well as movement. The eye
follows a garden line, the edge of a walkway, the curve of
a flower bed and the character of a line evokes a response.
Gentle, slow curves and horizontal lines tend to be
experienced as restful while jagged diagonals or vertical
lines create more excitement and tension.
Texture
A curved flower bed.
Strong textural contrasts add drama and interest to a
garden. Bark and foliage are two ways of adding textural
interest to any space. Some plants have foliage that is
rough and coarse while others may be fine, smooth or
feathery. Use different textures to create informal or more
elegant moods in your garden.
Color
Contrasting textures are inherent in
rock gardens like this one.
Consider different color schemes. Monochromatic
schemes in colors such as all green, blue, grey or white can
be stunning. Some gardeners pick colors that are adjacent
on the color wheel (analogous) while others opt for colors
that are opposite on the color wheel (complementary).
Generally, the more area to be dealt with the more
complex the color scheme can be. A garden created in
limited space will be more dramatic if the color scheme is
kept as simple as possible
Scent
Scent in a garden is often neglected. Introducing a variety
of fragrances will bring an extra dimension to the garden.
The scent of delicately fragrant plants is more appreciated
if they are located near a path or at the edge of a patio or
entry area. Specific fragrances, like colors, evoke
emotional responses and can help create a certain mood or
sense of time in the garden
Photos from About.com
Deer and Your Garden
As our area’s population grows, and their natural habitat is diminished, the
local whitetail deer are increasing in numbers and are being crowded into less
and less space. Their natural food supply is dwindling, yet they have to eat
something. So… they feed on people’s gardens!
If you are bothered by deer foraging in your backyard
here are some suggestions to protect your garden:
Make your garden unpalatable. Planting deer
resistant plants, shrubs or trees that simply don’t taste
good to the animals is a good option. On the reverse is a
list of plants that deer rarely or never eat. One thing
you must remember, however, is that a starving deer will
eat most anything when its favorite browse is not
available.
Make the fringes unpalatable. By lining your property
with unpalatable and repellent native plants, the deer
may be sufficiently discouraged and forage elsewhere.
Trees and shrubs such as cedar and yew are delicacies for
deer and should be avoided. White spruce, tamarack and
juniper are suitable alternatives to plant, and deer will
avoid them.
Fence them out. Exclusion by fencing is the most
effective control against deer damage. Deer can jump
up to 12 feet high, so fences that are 6-8 feet tall are
necessary. Young trees or garden beds can be protected
with mesh or screen, but fencing is the only sure way to
protect your garden.
Provide no view. Deer want an unobstructed view to detect approaching
predators. Since deer will not venture past anything they cannot see through or
over, a trellis covered in vines such as morning glories may discourage them.
Provide no landing site. Deer will not leap into your yard if they cannot see
where they will land. Wooden fences or lattices that obstruct the view are a good
deterrent.
Tidy-up. Pick fruit such as apples and pears as they ripen, and remove or till
under plants in the vegetable garden after harvest.
Try repellants. Repellents may work by odor, taste, or both. While repellents
help to reduce deer damage, they do not eliminate damage completely. Repellants
are available in many forms: soaps, urine, human hair, blood meal and commercial
sprays have all been used with varying degrees of success. Some work, some
don’t. Dogs have been used fairly successfully to chase deer away, but deer may
become accustomed to their presence after a while.
Page 4
Page 5
Plants Rarely or Never Eaten by Deer
ANNUALS/BIENNIALS
Ageratum
Blanket Flower
Blue Salvia
Cleome
Dahlia
Dusty Miller
Edging Lobelia
Forget-Me-Not
Four O’clock
Foxglove
Heliotrope
Herbs(most)
Marigold
Morning Glory
Parsley
Polka-Dot Plant
Poppy
Snapdragon
Sweet Alyssum
Sweet Basil
Thistle
Thorn Apple
Verbena
Wax Begonia
Zonal Geranium
PERENNIALS
Anemones
Angelica
Astilbe
Avens
Baby’s Breath
Balloon Flower
Basket of Gold
Beebalm
Bergenia
Bleeding Heart
Boltonia
Bugbane
Buttercup
Butterfly Weed
Butterflybush
Candytuft
Catmint
Chives
Christmas Fern
Cinnamon Fern
Cinquefoll
Columbine
Coreopsis
Crown Imperial
Daffodil
Evening Primrose
False Indigo
Fever Few
Forget-me-Not
Garlic Chives
Gas Plant
Globe Thistle
Goatsbeard
Goldenrod
Greater Periwinkle
Hay-scented Fern
Heath
Heather
Hellebore
Hungarian Speedwell
Interrupted Fern
Jack-in-the-Pulpit
Jacob’s Ladder
Joe Pye Weed
Kirengeshoma
Knapweed
Labrador Violet
Lamb’s Ear
Lavender
Lungwort
Lupine
Mint
Mullein
New York Fern
Oregano
Oriental Poppy
Ornamental Onion
Ostrich Fern
Painted Daisy
Partridgeberry
Pennyroyal
Perennial Blue Flax
Plumbago
Primrose
Purple Coneflower
Queen-of-the-Prairie
Rhubarb
Ribbon Grass
Rosemary
Royal Fern
Sage
Scilla
Sensitive Fern
Shasta Daisy
Soapwort
Spike Gayfeather
Spurge
Statice
Sweet Cicely
Sweet William, Pinks
Tansy
Tiger Lily
Toadflax
Turtlehead
Tussock Bellflower
Wormwood
Yarrow, Sneezeweed
Yucca
GROUNDCOVERS
Barrenwort
Bugleweed
Dead Nettle
Japanese Pachysandra
Lily-of-the-Valley
Periwinkle
Sweet Woodruff
VINES
Clematis
Honeysuckle
DIY Deer Repellent Recipe
2 Tbsp Lemon Joy
2 Tbsp Murphy’s Oil Soap
2 Tbsp Ammonia
1 beaten egg
Instructions: Combine ingredients.
Add one gallon of water and mix well.
Transfer to a spray bottle and spray
plants generously.
Plants Occasionally
Eaten by Deer
ANNUALS/BIENNIALS
Pansy
Sunflower
PERENNIALS & VINES
Coneflower
Cranesbill Geranium
Iris
Meadow Rue
Peony
Sedum
Wood Hyacinth
Plants Often
Eaten by Deer
ANNUALS/BIENNIALS
Hollyhocks
Impatiens
Mexican Sunflower
PERENNIALS
Cardinal Flower
Crocus
Daylily
Hosta
Phlox
Rose
Tulips
Success with...
Garden Plots

Remove weeds and other existing vegetation.

Prepare soil deeply to provide adequate drainage.

Lighten heavy soils by adding organic matter such as
compost.

Test soil pH to see if lime is needed and add the
recommended amount (preferably in the fall).

When the danger of frost is past, put in transplants and water in thoroughly.

Use mulch to suppress weeds and conserve water. Shredded bark, bark chips, and other materials may
also be used, but not freshly shredded and chipped materials.

To keep plants full and healthy looking, pinch back stems to encourage bushier growth.

Remember to deadhead! Remove faded blossoms before they start to form seeds.

Fertilize every month using granular 5-10-5 or water soluble 15-30-50.

Inspect for pests and use insecticidal soap and water sprays if necessary. In the absence of rain,
provide at least one inch of water per week.

Remove weeds as soon as they are noticed.
Barrels & Containers

If trees and shrubs are to be planted, containers should
be 3’x3’x3’ or larger.

Soil should be a fertile, well drained loam that is moist
at planting time.

Do not fertilize trees or shrubs at planting time.
Instead, wait one month and then fertilize with a 5-10-5
or 15-30-15 water soluble food as per label directions.

Trees and large shrubs should be staked to prevent their whipping about in wind.

If annuals are to be planted around a central plant, try not to disturb the roots of the focal part.

Use mulch to insulate the growing medium from sudden temperature changes and to help retain
moisture and suppress weeds.

Check regularly and water thoroughly whenever soil surface is dry. Continue to do this into late
November or until ground begins to freeze.

Weed regularly.

Remove faded blossoms from annuals before they begin seed formation, and keep them pinched back
for fuller growth.
Page 6
Page 7
Hanging Baskets

Check and water daily or more often (if necessary) when hot and dry in full sun.

To keep plants lush and healthy looking pinch back stems to encourage bushier growth.

Deadhead by removing faded blossoms before they start to form seeds.

Fertilize regularly with water soluble fertilizer (half strength 20-20-20 every 2 weeks).

Inspect for insect pests and use insecticidal soap and water sprays if necessary.

Gently remove any weeds as soon as noticed.
Maintenance is a Must
In order for your garden to stay healthy and
looking good, regular maintenance will be
required. Here are some tips:

Watering: The best time to water is early in
day. To make watering easier, use soaker
hoses throughout your beds. in the absence of
adequate rainfall, most plants need one inch of
water at least once a week.

Weeding: It is best to pull out weeds when
they are small, before they get out of hand and
take over your garden. Avoid the use of
herbicides.

Mulching: Mulch keeps the soil moist,
discourages weeds, keeps roots cool, and
protects plants form freezing and thawing.
Try to choose natural mulch over the dyed
variety.


Pruning: Any diseased, damaged or broken
branches should be pruned immediately. In
general, if a plant blooms before mid-June,
prune it after the flowers have faded and
dropped. Most other plants can be pruned in
early Spring. When in doubt, check for the
best pruning time, as there are always
exceptions.
Fertilizing: With good soil preparation, there is
little need for fertilizer. For container
plantings, once in the spring and twice during
the growing season should suffice.
Best Practices

Plant annuals early so they have adequate
time to grow into stunning masses of color.

Extend the season by using plants with
unusual shapes and bark for winter interest.

Containers and barrels are great additions to
streetscapes. Make sure to remove any faded
blossoms and keep them pinched back for
fuller growth.

Always strive to use the most natural and
local materials in your projects whenever
possible.

Use untreated wood or natural stone or brick
to define raised beds.

Support the local economy by purchasing your
plants at your neighborhood nursery. They
typically carry plants that are better suited
for our climate.

Consider hanging pots made of wired moss or
cocoa fiber rather than plastic. If you must
use plastic, opt for green over white with wire
hangers.

Try lining your hanging pots with a disposable
diaper at planting time to help retain water.

Be sure to clean up your gardens after the
first frost. Leave them neat and clean for
their long winter nap!
Page 8
Consider Hardscaping
Hardscaping is a term that refers to the hard elements, or nonliving
features of the landscape. This can include anything from fences, walls,
walkways, edging, gazebos, benches, clocks and sculptures to birdbaths.
When choosing hardscape elements, try to use natural and local materials
when possible. In a well-designed garden, the softscape and the hardscape
elements complement each other without clashing or competing for
attention. See the additional resources for more hardscaping ideas...
The Right Tools for the Job
Garden Shovel: This
Flexible Rake : Sometimes called a lawn or leaf
shovel is long-handled
with a dished (concave)
blade. The angled blade
makes it ideal for
attacking piles of soil,
and is also typically the
tool of choice for digging
plants out of the ground.
rake, this tool has a fan of flat, flexible tines. Use
it to gather light debris that is spread out on beds,
lawns, and walks, and to rake up leaves.
Trowel: A must-have hand tool, a trowel is
perfect for planting bulbs, seedlings, and other
small plants. You can also use a trowel to dig out
shallow-rooted weeds.
Hand pruners: There are two types of hand
Garden Spade: A spade features a flat, squared
-off blade and is often short-handled. It is ideal
for edging beds, slicing under sod, and working
soil amendments into the garden.
Garden Fork: Also known as a spading or potato
fork, with its four straight sturdy tines, it’s a
perfect tool for turning and aerating soil,
especially clay. Use it to break up chunks of
ground and to work organic matter, fertilizer, and
other amendments into the soil. It also comes in
handy for dividing clumps of perennials.
pruners: bypass and anvil. The bypass pruner has
two steel blades that bypass each other, slicing
through twigs and stems up to 3/4 inch thick. The
anvil pruner cuts using a crushing, rather than
slicing, action. Although not as versatile and
maneuverable, the anvil pruner is more stable and
requires less wrist and hand strength to operate.
Hedge shears: This long-handled tool with 8- or
10-inch-long carbon steel blades cuts twigs and
branches up to 1/2 inch thick. Use it to clip hedges
and cut back ornamental grasses.
Hoe: An old-fashioned tool that never goes out
Loppers: Essentially long-handled pruners,
of style, a hoe is perfect for cultivating soil and
removing young weeds. It's also useful for
breaking up soil clumps.
loppers cut small branches and stems as thick as
your thumb. They also extend your reach and give
you improved cutting leverage.
Steel Rake: Use this rake to dress and smooth
Garden Hose: Buy the best hose your budget will
out mulch or soil in a planting bed. Its tines
simultaneously break up small clods of soil and
corral small stones and debris.
allow. Choose a rubber or vinyl hose constructed of
several layers of mesh and with sturdy connectors
to ensure long life.
Source: www.bhg.com
Hardscaping Ideas
By: Nikki Phipps
Hardscaping is a term that
refers to the hard
elements, or nonliving
features, of the landscape.
This can include anything
from decks and walkways
to edging and ornamental
features.
Hardscape Garden
Design
Hardscapes can be formal
or informal, depending on
the style of your home and
surrounding landscape.
With hardscaping, textural
variety is important and
should be considered
carefully. On the one hand,
using only one texture or
material can make the area
appear dull and lifeless.
Yet, using too many textures can make the
surrounding area appear unattractive and
cluttered.
So what do you do? Find balance. It’s generally
better to choose no more than two or three
textures or hardscape materials. These should be
both visually appealing and complement your
home’s exterior. This also includes color. When
designing with hardscape elements, also consider
your drainage patterns.
When planned out carefully, hardscape gardening
features can and should improve the overall
appearance of your landscape, not take away
from it.
Common Hardscape Features
There are many types of Hardscaping features to
choose from. Walkways and paths are common
elements within the landscape, which are
oftentimes designed using hardscape materials
such as bricks, pavers, woodchips, flagstones, etc.
Retaining walls consisting of
rocks, concrete blocks,
railroad ties, and similar
items are also common
hardscape features. You
may also find hardscaping
features such as wooden or
stone steps and various types
of edging materials included
within the hardscape garden
design.
Additional
Hardscaping Ideas
When choosing hardscape
features, consider their
overall purpose in addition to
your current style or theme.
Different areas of the
landscape may require
various hardscape elements
based on their purpose.
Other hardscaping features to consider include
accessories and backdrops. These can be
important design elements as well. For instance, a
sitting garden might be spruced up with the
addition of a cozy bench or other comfortable
seating.
Water features, statuary, and other ornamental
accessories can also be added as hardscape
elements. Many types of mulch, such as bark and
pebbles, are considered part of the hardscape too.
The use of backdrops, such as fences, could also
be included in your hardscaping ideas. These can
be used to house attractive climbing plants or to
hide unsightly areas.
Hardscape gardening isn’t difficult. It just requires
planning. You want everything in the hardscape to
complement the surroundings. Make sure that all
of these ‘extras’ match the style of your home and
garden.
Source: www.gardeningknowhow.com
Xeriscaping
Homesusetwotothreetimesasmuchwaterinthesummerasinthewinterandmostofitis
usedtowaterplants.Waterusagecanbedramaticallyreducedbyxeriscapingusing
droughttolerantplantsinawaterconservinglandscapedesign
Herearesomehelpfultipstoincorporatexeriscapepracticesinyourlandscape:
x
Replacewaterintensivelawngrasswithdroughtresistanttypeswhenavailable.Be
daringandletyourlawnnaturallygodormantduringperiodsofdrought,itwillbounceback
againwhennatureprovidesadequatemoisture.
x
Considerremovingmostofthelawnareaandreplacingitwithwildflowermeadowor
gardenbedsfilledwithnativeplantstohelpnativeinsectandwildlifespeciesthrive.
x
Wateryourremaininglawnonlyasnecessary.Ifthegrassspringsbackwhenyousteponit,
there’snoneedtowater.Waterdeeplyandlessfrequentlyforbestresults.
x
Groundcoverplantsaregoodalternativestoturfgrassinsomelocations.Theyprovidea
varietyoftexturesandcolors,helpreducesoilerosion,andcanserveasatransition
betweenlawnareasandshruborflowerborders.Considerthemforareaswhereirrigation,
maintenanceandmowingaredifficult.
x
Ornamentalgrassesofferanarrayofcolorandrequireminimalcare,dowellinthesunand
bloominthesummerandfall.
x
Plantflowersfortheirbeautybutalsofortheirabilitytousewaterefficiently.Tosimplify
watering,groupplantswithsimilarwaterneedstogether.Placeplantswithhigherwater
needsinareaswherewaterdrainsnaturallysuchasdepressionsoratthebottomofahill.
x
Bushesandshrubscanbebothattractiveandpractical.Lookatvarietiesthathavebeen
successfulinyourneighborhoodandusethoseasaguide.
x
Treesareexcellentchoicesastheyrequirelittlewaterandprovideshadewhichhelps
preventevaporation.
x
Placealayerofmulcharoundtreesandplantstoslowevaporationanddiscourageweeds.
DROUGHT–TOLERANTORNAMENTALS
Ifyouhaveanareapoundedbythesunallday,consideralandscapeplanthatfocusesondroughttolerant
plants.Theuseofdroughttolerantplantswillreducetimeandmoneyspentonirrigation.Manydrought
tolerantplantsarealsotolerantofpoortoaveragesoils.Someevenpreferpoorsoils.Droughttolerantplants
don'thavetolookliketheybelonginthedesert.Theseplantsblendinperfectlywithyourexistinggarden.Like
anynewplant,droughtresistantplantsrequireregularwaterfortheirfirstmonthinyourgarden.
TREES
Americanholly
Americanhornbeam
Americansmoketree
Americansweetgum
Amurmaple
Carolinasilverbells
Corneliancherry
Crabapple
Easternarborvitae
Easternredcedar
Ginkgo
Goldenraintree
Hedgemaple
JapanesePagodatree
Kousadogwood
Lacebarkelm
Linden
LoebnerHybridmagnolia
Londonpplanetree
Oak,manyspecies
Paperbarkmaple
Pine,mostspecies
PitchPine
Spruce,mostspecies
Washingtonhawthorn
WinterKingHawthorn
Yew,mostspecies
SHRUBS
5leafAralia
Alpinecurrant
Arrowwood
Bayberry
Bearberry
Bottlebrushbuckeye
Bushcinquefoil
Butterflybush
Hollywoodjuniper
Lilaclowbushblueberry
Mockorange
Nannyberry
Ninebark
Ornamentalsumac
Paniclehydrangea
RoseofSharon
Saltsprayrose
Seabuckthorn
Shrubbycinquefoil
ShrubbySt.John’sWort
Spirea,Manyspecies
Sweetfern
Virginiarose
Virginiasweetspire
Winterberry
ANNUALS
Californiapoppy
Canna
Cockscomb
Cosmos
Creepingzinnia
Dahlbergdaisy
Dustymiller
Floweringtobacco
Fouroclock
Foxglove
Gazania
Geranium
Globeamaranth
Gloriosadaisy
Lantana
Loveinamist
Madagascarperiwinkle
Marigold
Mexicansunflower
Mossrose
Ornamentalpeppers
Petunia
Potmarigold
Statice
Sunflowers
SwanRiverdaisy
Verbena
PERENNIALS
Ajuga
Artemsia
Asters
Baby’sbreath
baptisia
Beebalm
BlackeyedSusan
Butterflyweed
Candytuft
Chrysanthemum
Columbine
Coneflower
Coralbells
Coreopsis
Daylily
FalseIndigo
Gaillardia
Gaura
Gazania
Gerberadaisy
GoldenMarguerite
Goldenrod
Hardyiceplant
Helleborous,Lentenrose
Hosta
Iris
Japanesesilvergrass
Lamb’sear
Lavender
Liatris
LilyoftheNile
LilyTurf
Lovegrass
Mexicansunflower
Peony
Perovskia
Phlox,thrift
Redhotpoker
Russiansage
Salvia
Sedum
Shastadaisy
Soapwort
Speedwell
Statice
Stoke’saster
Sunrose
SweetWilliam
Verbena
Veronica
Woollylamb’sears
Yarrow
Zebragrass
Most Popular Annuals: A GUIDE TO ANNUALS
Annual flowers provide instant, seasonal color and add vibrancy to your garden. By definition, an annual is a plant that grows, flowers, sets seed, and dies in the same season. It's difficult to beat the all‐summer color that most annuals provide, whether they're planted in a flower bed, hanging basket or flower pot. Begonias: Prized for their flower and foliage. Begonias are versatile and will perform well in anything from full sun to shady areas. Whether your area is shady or sunny, there is a wide variety of colorful flowers to choose from. Give your annuals their best start by planting in fertile, well drained soil with the appropriate sun tolerance exposure. The addition of mulch will help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Provide them with consistent watering, deadhead for continuous blooms and pinch them back for fuller growth. When choosing plants, think about the risk of browsing by deer, rabbits, woodchucks and other nibblers as well as insects. Plant them as Marigolds: The bright cheerfulness and sturdiness of marigolds make them an all‐time favorite in flower gardens. Remove spent flower heads and plant in full sun. early as possible after Memorial Day to enjoy full, lush flowers all season long! Petunias: With the Wave™ variety of petunias, plant breeders brought new life to another all‐time favorite. Petunias are known for their hardiness and season‐long color. Grow in full sun. Pansies: Due to their tolerance of frost and colder temperatures, pansies are very popular for early spring plantings. Their smiling faces quickly brighten anyone's mood. Geraniums: These favorites come in a wide range of colors. They are deer resistant and will tolerate light frost. Grow in full sun. Remove spent flower heads for better appearance and bloom. Impatiens: For areas with partial shade, impatiens are the top choice among flower gardeners. Salvia: Salvia makes a good selection for sunny areas with active deer browsing, since deer tend to leave it alone. Coleus: Coleus grows well in full sun to partial sun. The growing tips should be 'pinched back' to help keep the plant bushy. General Tips for Planting and Maintaining Annuals Soil Fertilizing The majority of annuals prefer full sun and well‐
drained soil with a moderate humus content. If your soil is clay, you can amend it with compost or well‐
rotted manure. After the first year, you should need only a light reapplication each spring. Most annuals don't require a lot of fertilizer, but will do much better if adequate nutrients are available. In general, you can fertilize once or twice during the growing season. Overfertilizing will cause a build‐up of soluble salts in the soil, especially if the soil is heavy, and can result in damage to the plants. Soil that has been enriched with compost will not generally need additional fertilizer. Choosing Stock Many annuals are easy to grow from seed, and some can even be started outdoors right in the garden, but if you plan to buy stock from a nursery, choose your plants carefully. Look for deep green, healthy plants that are neither too compact nor too spindly. They will do better if they are not yet in bloom when planted. If you can't plant them right away, keep them in a lightly shaded spot and water carefully. When to Plant Tender annuals cannot be planted until after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Half‐
hardy annuals can be safely planted if nights are still cool as long as there will be no more frost. Hardy annuals can be planted in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. How to Plant The best time to plant is late in the afternoon. Before planting, water your plants and the soil in your bed well. Remove the plants from their pots gently to disturb the roots as little as possible. If they are in peat pots, tear the pots slightly to make it easy for the roots to grow through. If the roots are compacted, loosen them gently before planting. Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball, and set the plant in at the same level at which it was growing. Carefully firm the soil around the roots. Water well after planting and keep moist until the plants are established and new growth has started. Once they are established, addition of a balanced fertilizer will encourage them to bloom. Sun Most annuals like at least 6 to 8 hours of sun a day. There are many annuals that will do well in part shade or filtered sun. These include ageratum, browallia, coleus, dianthus, fuschia, impatiens, lobelia, pansy and salvias Few (if any) annuals will do well in complete shade. Watering Annuals need about an inch of water a week. If Mother Nature doesn't provide, you will have to help. When you must water, water deeply to encourage deep root growth. Try to keep the foliage dry during watering. If you must use an overhead sprinkler, use it early in the day so the foliage will be dry by nightfall, lessening the chance of disease. Mulching The addition of a two to three inch layer of mulch will make the bed more attractive, reduce weeds, and conserve soil moisture. Organic mulches are best. Try bark chips, pine needles, shredded leaves or peat moss. The following year the mulch can be incorporated into the soil and new mulch added on top, resulting in an improved soil. Weeding Weeding not only keeps the bed more attractive, but also eliminates possible hosts for insects and disease and allows the flowers to receive the full benefit of the available moisture and nutrients. Weed carefully when the annuals are young so as not to disturb the young roots. Pruning The amount of care required by annuals varies. Most will need to have faded flowers removed (called deadheading) to encourage new blooms and keep the plant attractive. Many will become bushier if the top is pinched out. Remove the plants in the fall when the foliage begins to fade. Feel free to ask a representative at your local garden center or nursery about other tips and which annuals might be best suited for your garden InvasivePlants
Invasiveplantsdiminishtheabundanceofnativeplantsbycompetingwiththem.Theycanblocknavigationand
leadtoflooding,interferewithcropproductionandcanbeharmfultohumansandwildlife.Theycantoleratea
widevarietyofconditions,haveafastgrowthrate,areeasilydispersedbyanimalsandhumans,haveprofuse
andpersistentseed,andproducechemicalsthatsuppressthegrowthofotherplants.
Thefollowingisapartiallistofinvasiveplants(commonname)toavoidplantingandifpossibleeradicatewhen
foundinthewild:
AutumnOlive
BishopsWeed,Goutweed
BlackSwallowwort
BurningBush
BushHoneysuckles
ChineseWisteria
CommonBroom
CommonYarrow
Crownvetch
Dame’sRocket
EnglishIvy
GarlicMustard
GiantHogweed/CowParsnip
JapaneseBarberry
JapaneseHoneysuckle
JapaneseKnotweed
JapaneseSpirea
JapaneseStiltgrass
MileaMinuteWeed
MultifloraRose
NorwayMaple
OrientalBittersweet
PurpleLoosetrife
QueenAnne’sLace
RussianOlive
WaterChestnut
YellowFlagIris
Japanesebarberrywasfirstintroducedin
1875,andhasbeencultivatedfor
ornamentalpurposesformanyyears.It
canformdensestandsinnaturalhabitats
likeforests,woodlands,andmeadows.
Onceestablished,itdisplacesnativeplants
andreduceswildlifehabitatandforage.
Deeravoidbrowsingbarberry,preferringto
feedonnativeplants,givingitacompetitive
advantage.
MultifloraroseisnativetoAsiaandwas
firstintroducedtoNorthAmericain1866
asrootstockforornamentalroses.During
themid1900sitwaswidelyplantedasa
“livingfence”forlivestockcontrol.It
formsimpenetrablethicketsinpastures,
fieldsandforestedges,restrictswildlife
movementanddisplacesnative
vegetation.
Japaneseknotweedisnativetoeastern
Asiaandwasfirstintroducedinthelate
1800s.Itcommonlyinvadesdisturbed
areaswithhighlight,suchasroadsides
andstreambanks.Itisextremelyhardto
eradicate,andspreadsquickly.Thedense
patchesshadeanddisplaceotherplant
lifeandreducewildlifehabitat.
NativePlants
Gardensarenotjustanextensionofourhouses,butahabitatwesharewithplantsandtheanimalsthatdepend
onthemforfoodandshelter.Thereisanunbreakablelinkbetweennativeplantspeciesandnativewildlife.
Whennativeplantspeciesdisappear,orarereplacedbyalienexotics,theinsectsandseedsdisappearwhichare
thefoodsourceforbirdsandotheranimals.Gardenershavethepowertomakeasignificantcontribution
towardsustainingbiodiversitybyincreasingtheuseofnativesintheirplantingplans.
Thefollowingisapartiallist(commonnames)ofnativeplantstoaddtothelandscape.Manyareavailableat
localnurseries.Pleasebeawarethatremovingnativeplantsfromthewildisnotadvised,andinsomecasesis
evenillegal.
Andrew’sBottleGarden
BigleafAster
BlackCohosh
BlackeyedSusan
BlueCohosh
BlueeyedGrass
BlueFlagIris
BlueVervain
BlueWoodAster
Bluestar
Boneset
Bunchberry
CanadianBurnet
CardinalFlower
CranesbillorWildGeranium
Culver’sRoot
Dog’sToothDaisy
FirePink
Fireweed
FoamFlower
FoxgloveBeardtongue
GoldensealCanadensis
GoldenAlexanders
GreatBlueLobelia
GreeneyedConeflower
Harebell
JackinthePulpit
MarshMarigold
Mayapple
MeadowRue
MonkeyFlower
MountainMint
NarrowleafCattail
NewEnglandAster
NewYorkAster
NewYorkIronweed
NoddingLady’sTresses
ObedientPlant
OrangeButterflyweed
OxeyeSunflower
Partridgeberry
PurpleAngelica
PurpleButterflyweed
PurpleJoePye(mixedvarieties)
PurpleStemmedAster
PurpleTrillium
RueAnemone
ShowyGoldenrod
Solomon’sSeal
Spikenard
SpringBeauty
StarFloweredFalseSolomon
Seal
StiffAster
SundialLupine
ThreetoothCinquefoil
Turtlehead
Twinflower
WhiteTrillium
WhiteWoodAster
WildBeeBalm
WildBleedingHeart
WildColumbine
WildGinger
WildPink
WildSenna
WildStonecrop
WildStrawberry
Wintergreen
WoodAnemone
WoodlandSunflower
WreathGoldenrod
OxeyeSunflower
NewYorkIronweed
CardinalFlower
WildGeranium
107 Nott Terrace, Suite 301
Schenectady, NY 12308
Phone: (518) 372-1622; Fax: (518) 372-8703
www.cceschenectady.org
Culture of Spring-flowering Bulbs
R. E. Lee, Professor Emeritus
and R. E. Kozlowski
Department of Floriculture and Ornamental Horticulture
Cornell University
Hardy bulbs exceed all other groups of plants in producing color in the spring garden. For the most part they are the
earliest plants to bloom, and many have exceptionally showy flowers. The gardening season begins with the snowdrops and winter aconites, usually in early March. These are soon followed by crocuses, scillas, and chionodoxas;
then hyacinths, daffodils, and tulips. Bulbs are also a most versatile group of plants; there is a type for any location.
Attractive mass plantings can be made in solid beds to be followed in June by annuals. Groupings can be spotted
about in a perennial border or rock garden. Bulbs are attractive along paths and walks, planted around pools, or
placed in front of foundation plantings around the home. Most spring bulbs, with the exception of tulips, can also be
effectively naturalized.
Site:
Most bulbs do well the first year regardless of where they are planted. Very few do well for several years unless they
have a fair amount of light and generally favorable growing conditions. Planting bulbs beneath large trees is seldom
satisfactory because of the dense shade cast by the trees and the competition with tree roots. Scilla sibirica, crocus,
winter aconite, and snowdrop (Galanthus), however, give satisfactory performance under trees.
Very few of the hardy, spring-flowering bulbs tolerate wet, soggy soil conditions during the winter. Plant them in a
situation where there is good drainage and where there is no danger of water standing on the surface of the ground
through the winter or spring. Camassia is an exception and does well in wet, almost swampy places. It is imperative
to plant the so-called botanical or species tulips and narcissi in areas with perfect drainage, where it is dry and sunny
during the summer.
Soil Preparation:
In most spring-flowering bulbs the buds are already formed at the time the bulbs are planted in the fall. The soil must
be prepared well if the bulbs are to remain in vigorous condition for several years. Fertilizer added to the soil before
the bulbs are planted increases growth. The improvement in growth is not evident until the second year when the
bulbs that were fertilized at planting maintain vigorous growth and large flower size, whereas those not fertilized tend
to become smaller and poorer in quality. The best fertilizer is a complete commercial one such as 5-10-5 or 5-10-10,
applied at the rate of 1 pound to 100 square feet of surface area.
Work it thoroughly into the top 4-6 inches of soil. After bulbs are established, increase fertilizer applications to 2
pounds per 100 square feet when the bulbs are in bloom. Avoid fertilizer contact with bulb foliage and scratch the
fertilizer into the upper inch of soil. Organic matter can be added to “heavy” soils to improve their physical structure.
It is applied at the rate of 3 bushels per 100 square feet and worked into the top 8 inches of soil. Manure can also be a
source of organic matter. It should be well rotted, for fresh manure may injure the bulbs. Do not exceed 2 bushels for
each 100 square feet.
Planting:
In some localities where the soil is light and sandy, bulbs can be planted by the dibble method. Make a small hole in
the soil with a short-pointed stick, then place the bulb in the soil, and after pressing the bulb down into the soil as far
as possible, cover it with soil. In heavy soils, use a trowel to dig the hole for each bulb. The soil underneath the bulb
should be loose so that the roots can easily penetrate the soil.
Building Strong and Vibrant New York Communities
Cornell Cooperative Extension provides equal program and employment opportunities.
Adapted From Netherlands Flower-Bulb Information Center
Time of Planting:
October is the best month to plant all the spring-flowering bulbs. Tulips show some reduction in size of bulb and
length of stem when planted after December 1, but anytime before December 15 is reasonably satisfactory for them.
Depth of Planting:
The depth at which to plant bulbs is important. The best depth to plant tulips and narcissi is with the tops of the bulbs
5 inches below the surface of the soil. For narcissi and daffodils, the depth of planting makes considerable difference
to the future growth of the bulb, but tulips are somewhat more tolerant of unfavorable depths. In light, sandy soils,
plant tulips deeper than in heavy soils. Plant smaller bulbs with their tops about 2 inches below the surface of the soil.
In this group are scillas, chionodoxas, grape hyacinths, snowdrops, and any of the others that have a diameter of 1
inch or less. As a rule, the depth of soil above the top of the bulb should be about twice the diameter of the bulb.
Spacing:
Plant the larger growing bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, about 8 inches apart. This gives the bulbs space for 2 or 3
years’ growth before they must be dug up and divided. Plant crocus and grape hyacinth about 4 inches apart. Some
of the smaller bulbs, such as winter aconites and scillas, should be placed from 2-to-3 inches apart. If you make a
naturalized planting, place narcissi at least 10 inches apart and set the small bulbs about 20 to a square foot. Grape
hyacinths, scillas, chionodoxas, snowdrops, and other small bulbs are much more effective planted in mass rather than
individually.
Rodents:
Precautions should be taken to prevent rodents from feeding on the bulbs. When the bulbs are planted in beds, cover
the beds with fine mesh wire to prevent mice from digging out the bulbs. Certain repellent materials available at garden centers can be used. As a rule, place a small handful of the repellent around the bulb at the time of planting.
Growth:
Other practices besides planting affect the growth and development of bulbs over a period of years. The removal of
seed pods is important. When the pods are left on tulips and narcissi, the new bulbs are much smaller than when the
pods are removed.
Removing the leaves has just the opposite effect. The more leaves removed from the bulbs when the flowers are cut,
the smaller are the new bulbs produced. If the two lower leaves of tulips are left on, the new bulbs produced are practically normal in weight. Narcissi require from 4-to-6 leaves to produce normal-sized bulbs.
Let the leaves remain on the spring-flowering bulbs until they show signs of ripening and turning yellow. Tulip bulbs
usually reach their full development about June 15. Narcissi complete their development about the middle of July.
Other types of bulbs vary greatly in the date at which they mature.
Cut off the foliage of the bulbs at the ground level when it is fully mature. Remove it from the garden and discard it.
Failure to Bloom:
Old established clumps of bulbs may not produce flowers because they are overgrown and the bulbs have become too
crowded. Correct this by digging, separating, then resetting the bulbs. If bulbs are dug too soon after flowering, before they mature, no flowers will develop the next season; but if the bulbs are left in place, they will flower the second
year.
Digging:
After several years in the ground, both daffodils and tulips form a clump of multiple bulbs, resulting in a gradual decline in stem length and flower size. Daffodils grow many years before the clumps need dividing. Tulips decline
sooner and may benefit by digging the clumps and dividing the bulbs every several years. If the bulbs have declined
sharply, it may be better to discard them and start again with new ones. Tulips rarely show as well after the first year.
In the years bulbs are to be dug, allow them to mature as long as possible. Around the last of June or the middle of
July, when the foliage turns yellow, lift the bulbs carefully, free them from soil, and remove the tops. The bulbs can
be divided and replanted immediately. Otherwise, wash the soil from the bulbs with a hose and then spread them out
in a shady, airy place to allow the surface to dry thoroughly. Then place them in shallow boxes and store them in a
cool, dry, airy place. They will be ready to plant in the fall. Grade the bulbs, for many of the smaller ones will not
produce flowers the following year. Plant only the large bulbs in beds or borders. The smaller ones can be planted in
rows in a nursery bed and allowed to develop. They will usually form flowering-size bulbs in 2 years.
This publication is issued to further Cooperative Extension work mandated by acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30,
1914. It was produced with the cooperation of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cornell Cooperative Extension,
New York State College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, New York State College of Human Ecology, and New
York State College of Veterinary Medicine at Cornell University. Cornell Cooperative Extension offers equal program and employment opportunities.
9/86
The Value of Trees in a Community
The role of trees in providing beauty and shade in our communities and neighborhoods is widely
appreciated. But what is less generally understood are the many vital and often unseen things
trees do to make our cities and towns more pleasant and healthful places in which to live.
In the community, trees:
Reduce Energy Costs - Trees have been called the “low tech” solution to energy conservation.
Shade from trees reduces the need for air conditioning in summer. In winter, trees break the force
of winter winds, lowering heating costs.
Studies have shown that parts of cities without cooling shade from trees can literally be “heat
islands,” with temperatures as much as 12 degrees Fahrenheit higher than surrounding areas.
Clean the Air - Trees produce oxygen that we breathe. In addition, trees remove air pollution by
lowering air temperature, by releasing water into the atmosphere, and by retaining particulates. By
reducing the need for heating and cooling systems, trees also reduce emissions that contribute to
atmospheric carbon dioxide and the greenhouse effect.
Produce Economic Benefits - Trees add value to retail areas by making them more attractive
places for shopping. Trees along streets and on private property increase property values. Studies
conducted in two communities in New York and Connecticut showed that the presence of trees
increased the selling price of homes by as much as 15 percent.
Screen Noise and Undesirable Views - Strips of densely planted trees and shrubs will not
completely remove the annoyance of city noise, but they can significantly reduce it. Urban forestry
researchers have shown that even narrow belts of trees can reduce noise by three to five decibels.
And, trees can provide privacy or screen out undesirable views.
Attract Wildlife - Trees can provide habitat for songbirds and other desirable wildlife, adding natural
sounds and beauty in the urban environment.
Slow Runoff and Prevent Erosion - The leaves of trees break the force of rain, reducing flooding by
helping water percolate into the soil instead of quickly running off. Tree roots also help hold the soil
in place on steeper hillsides, preventing erosion and improving water quality.
FORESTRY EXTENSION NOTES
Tips For
Proper Planting of
Containerized Trees
When you go to pick up your tree bring along:
Ø One or two gallons of water to hydrate the roots with
Ø A large old blanket or tarp to cover the branches with, keeping the wind from
tattering new leaves, break branches or buds and also reduce the drying effects of
wind and sun
Ø Rope or twine to keep everything from blowing around or falling out of vehicle
Ø If possible, use an enclosed vehicle or trailer to transport trees so they aren’t
exposed to excessive wind that could damage the tree on the trip home
After selecting and purchasing a containerized tree:
Ø Always handle tree by the container to prevent damage to the root mass and base
of trunk attachment
Back home and ready to plant:
Ø Keep tree in shaded location and maintain a moist root mass until planted
Ø Locate where the large supporting roots are found within the container. They may
be visible on the surface or might be covered by a couple inches of soil
Ø
These large supporting roots will help you
identify the correct depth at which to dig the
hole. At the base of a typical nontransplanted tree these large roots will be
found at the ground surface
Ø
Serious root related problems can arise in the
future when trees have been transplanted too
deep (girdling roots strangle the stem
causing premature decline, increased chance
of wind-throw)
Stem-Root Graft
Root Flare and
Large Roots
Possible Added Soil Above Roots
F-376/April 2002
IOWA STATE UNIVERSITY
University Extension
Ames, Iowa
...and justice for all
The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs
and activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age,
disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, and marital or family status. (Not
all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Many materials can be made available in
alternative formats for ADA clients. To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA,
Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 14th and Independence Avenue, SW,
Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call 202-720-5964.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in
cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Stanley R. Johnson, director,
Cooperative Extension Service, Iowa State University of Science and Technology, Ames,
Iowa.
1
Size and Shape of the Hole:
Ø Use the blanket or tarp from the trip home to put the soil on when you start to dig
Ø The diameter of the hole should be three to four times the width of the container
Ø The sides of the hole should be angled back at least 45o and roughed up
Ø Again, do not dig the hole any deeper than necessary, the large supporting roots
should be even with the top of the hole
Inspect Root Mass for Circling and Girdling Roots:
Ø Place tree on its side and remove the entire container
Ø Using a sharp utility knife or hand pruners make four or five lengthwise cuts into
the sides of the root mass to sever any circling roots. Make four or five cuts across
the bottom side of root mass also
Ø Loosen up surface roots with your fingers and straighten out any large roots
Ø While holding onto root mass, center the tree in hole and make sure the top of the
roots are at the surface of the ground
Ø Adjust the vertical plumb as needed
Back-filling the Hole, Mulching:
Ø Do not amend back-fill soil
Ø
Ø
Ø
with mulch or compost, but do break it up as much
as possible
Fill in hole and then place three to four inches of wood or bark chip mulch
around the tree, two or three feet wider than the diameter of hole
Keep the mulch six inches away from the base of the tree to prevent moisture
buildup on bark
Lightly step around hole to firm up soil underneath mulch
Initial Watering:
Ø Slowly and thoroughly
water the tree to eliminate any big air pockets in soil
Prepared by John L. Smith
2
TreesandShrubsforFallColor
Gardenerscanenjoythegorgeouscolorsofautumnbyplantingagardenthatwilldisplaythered,gold
andpurplecolorsoffallfoliage.Onecanalsochooseplantsforotherornamentalqualitiesincluding
fruit,growthhabit,patternedortexturedbarkandboldandunusualformandshape.
Thefollowinglistprovidessomecolorssuggestionsrangingfromsmallshrubstolargedeciduoustrees.
PURPLE
RED
YELLOW
SHRUBS:
Small
Cranberrycotoneaster
Blackchokeberry
Commonsweetshrub
Atlanticleatherwood
Medium
Silkydogwood
Redchokeberry
Fiveleafacanthopanax
Americanelder
Large
Greenstemforsythia
Nannyberryviburnum
Easternwahoo
Smoothsumac
Commonwitchhazel
Small
SmokeTreeCrabapple
Amurmaple
Alleganyserviceberry
Easternredbud
Whitefringetree
Medium
KousaDogwood
Large
WhiteAsh
JapaneseMaple
TREES:
Nikkomaple
Shadblowserviceberry
Redmaple
Northernredoak
Sweetbirch
Europeanhornbeam
BigleafMaple
Boxelder
Maidenhairtree
TheEssentialsofMulch
Mulchisanymaterialplacedonthesoiltoconserve
moistureandimprovegrowingconditions.Avarietyof
organicmaterialscanbeusedasmulchincludingwood
chips,shreddedbark,pineneedles,nutshells,leavesand
compost.
SomeBenefitsofMulching:
x
x
Inorganicmulchescanincludedecorativestones,lavarock,
pulverizedtiresandgeotextilefabrics.Inorganicmulches
areusefulinxeriscapingandforsoilprotectioninhigh
trafficareabutduetothepotentialforhighheatreflection
theyarenotrecommendedforusearoundtrees.
x
x
Theidealmulchiseconomical,readilyavailable,easyto
applyandremove,staysinplace,suppliesorganicmatter
tothesoilandisfreeofnoxiousweeds,insectsand
diseases.
x
x
Mulchisusuallyappliedtowardsthebeginningofthe
growingseason,andmaybereappliedasnecessary.It
servesinitiallytowarmthesoilbyhelpingitretainheat
whichallowsearlyseedingandtransplantingofcertain
crops,andencouragesfastergrowth.Astheseason
progresses,themulchstabilizestemperatureandmoisture,
andpreventssunlightfromgerminatingweedseed.
x
x
x
Atwotothreeinchlayerofmulchwillcontrolmostweeds
germinatingfromseedinthesoil.Plantrootsrequire
oxygenforgrowth,thereforeavoidovermulchingwhich
cancauserootdiseasestodevelop.
Helpsmaintainsoilmoisture,slows
evaporationandreducestheneedtowater
Protectsagainsttemperatureextremesby
insulatingthesoilsurface.Thiskeepsit
warmerinwinterandcoolerinsummer
Helpscontrolweedsandgrassby
preventingsunlightfromreachingthesoil
surfaceandbyposingaphysicalbarrierto
seeddevelopment
Improvesthesoilstructure,aerationand
drainagebyaddingorganicmatterand
nutrientstothesoilthroughthegradual
breakdownofthemulchmaterial.
Helpsrepelinsects.
Providesaclean,drysurfaceforground
lyingfruitsuchassquashandmelons.
Forerosioncontrol–protectssoilfromrain
andpreservesmoisture.
Forsedimentcontrol–slowsrunoff
velocity.
Organicresidues–grassclippings,leaves,
hay,straw,shreddednewspaper,
cardboard,wool,etc.Manyofthese
materialsalsoactasadirectcomposting
system,suchasthemulchedclippingsofa
mulchinglawnmower.Therearemany
differingopinionsonwhattouse.
Mulchingyourtrees…
Mulchingisoneofthemostvaluablethingsthatcanbedoneforatree’s
health.Aproperlymulchedtreewillhavea24”layerofmulchinadonut
shapedringextendedifpossibleouttothetree’sdripline.Thewiderthemulch
ring,thegreaterthebenefittothetree.
Avoidpilingmulcharoundthetrunkofatree.Pullmulchbackseveralinches
fromthetrunksothebaseandrootcrownareexposed.Themulchringshould
resemblea“donut”nota“volcano”
Mulchingwillmakelawnmaintenanceeasier,protecttrunksandsurfaceroots
oftreesfrommowerandstringtrimmerdamageandgiveawell
groomed/caredforappearancetothelandscaping.
GARDENING RESOURCES ON THE WEB These web sites contain resources on gardening topics and are provided for informational purposes. Their appearance does not constitute an endorsement by Sullivan Renaissance. Cornell Gardening Info Portal New York Botanical Garden www.gardening.cornell.edu www.nybg.org USDA Plant Database Proven Winners www.plants.usda.gov www.provenwinners.com Better Homes and Gardens Horticulture Magazine www.bhg.com/gardening/ Smart Gardening On‐line Workshops www.hortmag.com/smart‐gardening‐workshops