Metalwood Bending Unit

Metalwood Bending Unit
Stock #240788
Loft Adjustment Beams
Loft Adjustment Clamp
Crown Clamp Handle
Crown Clamp
Face Support Spring
Rear Support Assembly
Rear Support Handle
Lie & Face Angle
Cradle Nest
11000 North IH-35, Austin, TX 78753, USA
(512) 837-4810
Metalwood Bending Unit
The Golfsmith Metalwood Bending Unit has been
designed to adjust the hosels of steel metalwoods.
The unit is not intended for iron or putter hosel
adjustments. Stainless steel woods that have been
properly heat treated have the capability of having their
hosels adjusted up to 2 degrees any direction.
As long as there is enough hosel length for a bending
bar to hold onto, the Golfsmith Metalwood Bending unit
is capable of holding the wood head secure enough so
that the proper amount of force may be applied to the
hosel for manipulation.
B) Loft Adjustment Clamp
This clamping knob is loosened and re-tighten to set the
Loft Adjustment Beams to the necessary loft orientation
of the wood to be adjusted.
C) Crown Clamp Handle
The Crown Clamp Handle tightens and loosens the
Crown Clamp (D). With a club head set into the
Metalwood Bender tighten the Crown Clamp Handle just
enough to help keep the club head from moving. Do not
tighten until the club head's face is snug against the Face
Support Spring (E) and supported by the Rear Support
Assembly (F). Only after the club head is properly
secured by the Rear Support Assembly against the Face
Support Spring should a tighter tension be placed via the
Crown Clamp.
While the Metalwood Bending Unit can be bolted to a
workbench for use, the unit is designed to be used with
the heavy duty Bending Unit Stand (stock #240791)
which may either be bolted to the floor or used with its
standing platform.
D) Crown Clamp
The Crown Clamp places pressure on the leading edge
of the crown (top shell of the woodhead). With the Loft
Adjustment Beams properly set the pressure from the
Crown Clamp will be strong enough to place vertical
pressure on the club head without damaging its thin wall
construction or paint.
If you have any questions about the operation or function
of the Golfsmith Metalwood Bending Unit which cannot
be answered by the information in this manual call
Golfsmith Customer Service at
(800) 925-7709.
E) Face Support Spring
The Face Support Spring will rest snugly against the face
of the wood if the Loft Adjustment Beam is set to the
corresponding loft of the meta-wood. The club-face
should be supported horizontally by the Rear Support
Assembly (F) against the Face Support (E).
F) Rear Support Assembly
The Rear Support Assembly is designed to secure a wide
variety of meta-wood shapes. It rests against the trailing
edge skirt of the club-head and keeps it from moving as
the hosel is being adjusted.
G) Rear Support Handle
Rear Support Assembly pressure is adjusted by turning
the Rear Support Handle. Initially tighten the pressure on
the back of the club-head enough to seat the face
securely behind the Face Support Spring (E). Once the
sole of the wood and the club's face are sitting flush
against their supporting surfaces, then additional tension
may be applied by tightening the Rear Support Handle.
H) Lie & Face Angle Protractor
Using the protractor properly will indicate the lie angle of
the meta-wood before and following the adjustment of
the hosel. The number of degrees that the face angle is
changed is also reflected on the protractor. The slide
assembly that the protractor is on permits both right and
left handed measurements without having to remove the
club-head from the bending unit.
The Golfsmith Metalwood Bending Unit
A) Loft Adjustment Beams
The two Loft Adjustment Beams work in conjunction with
a vertical stantion that adjusts to a loft indicator gauge
(located on the beams). The loft of the club head that is
being adjusted must first be set on the Loft Adjustment
Beams so that the Face Support Spring (E) and Crown
Clamp (D) are properly oriented to the rest of the club
head. Loosen the Loft Adjustment Clamp (B) to adjust
the beams to the proper loft of the Metalwood.
I) Cradle Nest
The Cradle Nest incorporates two brass rests that pivot
to the angle of a meta-wood's sole. Set the metal-wood
into the Cradle Nest prior to tightening the Crown Clamp
and Rear Support Assembly. Once it is in place then the
necessary adjustments to the bending unit may be made
to secure the head tightly and in alignment with the
readings of the protractor gauges.
Metalwood Bending Unit
Metal-Wood Clamping Procedure
Set the Loft Adjustment Beam to the exact physical
loft of the Club-head. The club-head loft will required
to be measured using other means such as The
Golfsmith Professional Gauge Item 240794 or the
economy Measuring gauge Item 240808.
Locate the club head on the cradle, slide it towards
the face spring. Adjust the face spring so that it is
about centered on the club head face. The club head
Score lines should be aligned parallel to maintain the
correct lie angle.
Extend the rear clamp and locate the V jaw about
center end tighten lightly...
Retract the rear clamp to provide as much room as
possible for the club-head to be altered
The rear clamp has to be adjusted height wise and
perpendicular to the club face so that when additional
clamping is applied the club head will not move...
Retract the club head sole cradle about 1 inch away
from the club face support spring
Metal-Wood Clamping Procedure
Metalwood Bending Unit
To properly secure the club- it is very important that the
rear clamp be aligned with the club face center. If during
clamping the club-head rotates out of position readjust
the clamp accordingly.
Insert A hosel measurement rod item 241123 or a
shaft bit in to the hosel and slide the protractor against
the rod. Rock it into place until the gauge reads the
lie position that was previously measured using the
measuring Gauges. If the measurements do not
coincide, reposition the club-head in the vise as
needed. With this position set, tighten the crown
clamp and rear clamp. This will ensure that as you
bend the hosel angle you will be reading its correct
measurement during every stage of the operation.
When the rear clamp is correctly aligned, increase the
clamping pressure so that the face springs conforms to
the club head face. The club head should remain
correctly seated on the cradle to provide the club head
sole with adequate support.
With the club-head correctly positioned in the cradle,
continue to check the lie Angle position as you
tighten the Crown and Rear Support clamps. The face
should be flush against the Face Support Spring and
the sole sitting firmly upon the cradle rests. With the
surfaces of the crown, face, rear skirt and sole flush
against the surfaces of the bending unit. Tighten the
Crown and rear clamp with greater pressure. With
these clamps all tightened properly the club-head will
not move at all in its cradle.
Lower the crown clamp and tighten progressively to force
the crown spring to conform to the club head shape.
Metalwood Bending Unit
Bending Bars
There are many types of bending bars available on
the market to use for bending the hosels of golf clubs.
One of the more efficient bending rods for metalwoods
is the Golfsmith Metalwood Bending Bar item241189.
The position of the tension posts are closer together
than on similar bending bars intended for wider hosel
Helpful Hint
Some hosels are completely painted, which may
result in chipping of the paint as the knuckle of the
bending bar contacts its surface. Wrap a protective
material around the hosel such as leather, moleskin,
heavy fabric or even duct tape for protection.
The purposes of working With the shaft or hosel rod
in the head is to read the Gauge measurements
during the bend and to also prevent the hose opening
from being bent out of Shape.
Take note of the reading on the gauge for the face
angle. The measurement is for Reference only and is
not The club-head's actual face Angle. This is a
reference point From Which to bend and re-measure
The club-head's face angle. As the gauge is moved
towards the negative (-) side of the "0" the hosel is
being bent in a more closed position. When the gauge
is moved towards the positive (+) side fo the "0" it
indicates a more open position.
Due to the face progression or offset of the club-head
an open face angle could read in the negative zone
before adjusting the hosel and visa versa. Only use
the face angle protractor scale to determine how many
degrees you have adjusted the hosel following your
bend. Use the Professional or Economy Measurement
Gauges to take the actual face angle measurements.
Associated club-making tools that may be useful when
working with the Golfsmith Metal-wood Bending Unit:
Stock # Item Description
241189 Metalwood Bending Bar
8283 Shot Hosel Bending Bar
828310 Replacement Sheaves for the above bars
240791 Bending Unit Floor Stand
240794 Professional Loft Lie Measurement Gauge
240808 Economy Loft Lie Measurement Gauge
Metalwood Bending Unit
More Closed Face Angle (HOOK)
Adjusting the Lie Angle
As with bending iron hosels, adjusting the hosel of a
Metalwood will typically occur by initiating a vertical force
bend (for upright or flatter lie angles) or a horizontal force
bend (more open or closed face angles).
Unlike irons the horizontal bend will be slightly different,
where on irons it is a bend affecting only the loft angle.
When adjusting the face angle for woods, every degree
that the face angle is bent more open, the dynamic loft
will DECREASE by the same number of degrees. And for
every degree that the face angle is closed the dynamic
loft will INCREASE by the same number of degrees.
Refer to the following photos for bending for metalwoods.
To Flatten lie angle
Set the bending bar in a position that is perpendicular
to the face of the clubhead. The bar must be leaning
forward as indicated above. A downward force is
placed on the bar to bend the hosel. As the hosel is
bent forward its top will be bending in the direction of
the arrow above. This movement will place more of a
closed (hook) face angle position on the hosel.
More Open Face Angle (SLICE)
Flatter:Position the bending bar so that the handle is
oriented parallel with the face. Apply a downward
pressure ensuring that the bar's knuckle is placing
force upon only the hosel, not the shaft (which could
result in shaft breakage).
To Bend Lie Angle more Upright
The bending bar should be perpendicular to the face
of the clubhead. Its handle should be leaning towards
the trailing edge of the club as seen above. A
downward force is placed on the bar to bend the hosel
into a more open (slice) position. The top of the hosel
will travel in the direction of the arrow above.
Bending Technique
To execute a bend in any direction to the hosel, grab
the bending bar with both hands. Exert a medium
amount of pressure on the bar in the desired direction
of the bend and make the decision based on the "feel"
of the tension of the hosel in response to the force
applied to make the alteration.
To make the bend begin to build up force on the bar to
the point that you can begin to feel the stretch or
movement of the hosel. Allow the force to peak right
at the moment the least amount of movement of the
hosel is felt, then reduce the force.
Upright: Position the bending bar so that the handle
is parallel with the face. Apply an upward pressure to
the hosel to create a more upright lie Angle.
Metalwood Bending Unit
Stainless Steel Metal woods
Stainless steel has more elasticity to its material
properties than titanium. Even though 17-4 stainless
steel may be resistant to bending, its greater elasticity
property makes it much easier to bend than titanium.
Adjusting titanium hosels can be executed with much
less effort by heating the hosel red hot leading to the
bend. Such a bend must be accomplished with a solid
steel hosel measurement rod in the hosel to keep it
from collapsing during the force of the bend. However
refinishing of the paint on the head is required
following this propane torch treatment of the hosel.
The application of the bending force is best described
by a quick ramping up of pressure on the bar which
quickly peaks in force and then releases. As opposed
to bending many softer material irons, metalwoods are
more difficult to sense the feel of the actual stretching
and the bending of the hosel.
Therefore the application of force must be executed
more quickly. If a maximum force is held for too long
of a time period the hosel may break or fraction off of
the club-head at the area adjoining the crown.
Re-check lie and face angle measurements following
each bend to the hosel to make sure you are
executing the adjustment as desired. Ensure that the
head is not moving within the bending unit, because if
it has it must be properly repositioned into the cradle
before bending again. However if the entire head did
move during a bend, it cannot be determined if the
hosel also moved without first re-measuring the lie
and face angle measurements using the Professional
or Economy Loft & Lie Measurement Gauges.
Carbon Fibre and Hybrid metal woods
Any head constructed with graphite (carbon fiber) as a
portion of the club-head should not be adjusted in the
metal-wood bender. The carbon fiber is typically
attached by an epoxy-like bond that is not capable of
handling the stresses to the metal-wood body during a
hosel adjustment. Likewise, any crown made of
carbon fiber is not strong enough to handle the proper
pressure applied through the Crown Clamp of the
metal-wood bender.
Metalwoods constructed from 17-4 stainless steel are
the most conducive to accepting hosel bends. The 174 steel must be of good quality and undergone proper
heat treatment so that the material will accept a bend
without damage to the club-head.
Metalwoods with a larger hosel diameter will be more
difficult to bend than those with a smaller diameter.
Most properly heat treated heads with a .335" or .350"
hosel diameter should be bend with similar resistance.
Many hybrid utility woods incorporate a .370" size
hosel. These will require a greater force to adjust. Any
head with a .400" or larger hosel size will be the most
difficult to adjust.
A 17-4 head that is constructed from inferior materials
(often the case with counterfeit or "knock-off" designs,
and low quality "no-name" products) will not accept a
bend to the hosel without complications. The most
common occurrence in these situations leads to
cracking at the base of the hosel with fractures that
can run into the crown area of the club head. High
quality 17-4 heads may also experience the same
results if too great a pressure is applied to the club
head or the force to bend the hosel occurs too slowly.
Practice makes the best teacher for determining the
proper amount of force and technique in adjusting
metal-wood hosels. Golfsmith recommends practicing
on used woods of various styles, different hosel
offsets and varying shaft tip dimensions in order to
gain the "feel" it takes to adjust the many different
styles of club-heads on the market.
Guidelines for bending metal-woods
Attention should be focused on cosmetics of the
metal-wood to be bent. Take care to prevent chipping
of the club-head's paint and marks upon the hosel
resulting from either the adjustment of the hosel or
from securing and removing the club-head from the
meta-lwood bender. Thick density tape or lead tape
provide an extra layer of protection in areas that may
be vulnerable to the metal-wood bending bar or from
the clamping devices on the metal-wood bender.
Aluminum Metal woods
Adjusting hosels to aluminum metalwoods is not
recommended. Aluminum will bend easily however the
integrity of the hosel will weaken tremendously upon a
single bend. In many cases the hosel of an aluminum
club-head will fracture with a small amount of force.
Due to the potential damage resulting from a small
amount of adjustment, bending aluminum hosels is
highly not recommended.
Advise your customer that there will be a small
indentation in the hosel of the club-head as a result
from the great amount of force required to make the
hosel adjustment. Even a protective layer of material
cannot prevent a crease or indentation from occurring
if enough pressure is applied.
Titanium Metal woods
Titanium is a difficult material for many club-makers to
bend. Most metalwoods constructed from titanium
incorporate short hosel length designs making it very
difficult to execute an adjustment. Titanium woods
with longer hosels in which a bending bar can grasp
may be adjusted, but not without additional