Brush training for Nail-Art brushes

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Brush training for

Nail-Art brushes

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Content

The historical development of brushes and brush production

Parts of an artist brush and quality relevant attributes

The brush head

The handle

Presentation of different applications and brush shapes

Choosing the right brush with the brush symbols

The right brush care

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The historical development of brushes

The desire to create a nice home inspired mankind to search for suitable colours and tools

Oldest documents of art was discovered in South-West-France and

North Spain: cave-paintings of Altamira dated 18000 – 13000 B.C.

First these paitings were considered to be counterfeits.

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The historical development of brushes

During excavations a „painter's studio“ was discovered

Brushes made of bones and animal hair

Different sizes and lengths

Paints made of animal fat and blood.

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The historical development of brushes

Brushes counted as on of the oldest tools of mankind

Brushmaking is over all one of the oldest trades

In the past times brushes were made by artists themselves and by their assistants

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The historical development of brushes

About 250 years ago brushmaking became a separate trade

The German centres of brush production are in Bechhofen and

Nuremberg

The only vocational school for the training to become a brushmaker

(3 years) is in Bechhofen

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Parts of a brush

adhesive

Ferrule

Crimping / glueing stamp / imprint

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Material for the brush head

Significant for the quality of a brush

Basics:

Natural hair

Synthetic hair

Natural bristle

Synthetic bristle hair tip root root shaft flag

For natural hair and bristle the climate is very significant:

The colder the area and weather, the better the quality bristle

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Natural hair

The hair has one individual tip. The surface of the hair is rough.

tip shaft root

Before the hair can be used by the brushmaker, it has to be washed and thoroughly cleaned. The different hair lengths are separated and sold in bundles.

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Natural hair

Kolinsky

Hair of highest quality and price

Taken from the tail of the red sable Kolinsky

Lives in Siberia and North China

Purchasing price for 1 kg: up to 12.000 €

Tips of the hair very long and thin

High paint holding capacity

High flexibility

Perfect hair for liquid media

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Natural hair

Red sable

Very valuable hair, similar to Kolinsky

Single hair tips not as long as of

Kolinsky

Suitable especially for water colour brushes, liners,

Suitable for application of acrylics in nail design

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Other types of natural hair

not relevant for nail brushes

• Squirrel hair

– Hair taken from the tail of squirrels, very soft

• Ox hair

– Hair taken from the ox ear, medium stiffness

• Fitchew hair

– Hair taken from the tail of the animal

» Badger

» Used for shaving brushes

» Pony hair (also know as camel hair)

» Taken from the fur of ponys

» Goat

» Taken from the back of goats

» Used for powder and rouge brushes

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Synthetic hair

The hair has one individual tip. The surface of the hair is even and smooth.

root shaft

Synthetic hair imitates the attributes of natural hair

Available in different diameters and colours

Substituting more and more simple natural hair qualities

The best quality of a synthetic brush is achieved by a perfect mixture of different diameters and qualities tip

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Synthetic hair

Originally used for “punched” brushes and simple school paint brushes (without tip!)

Higher qualities meeting higher requirements were developed in Japan by Toray.

Almost at the same time competitor Teijin

In the meantime various copies from Far East

Most used diameters: 0,07, 0,10 und 0,15mm

Tip treated chemically and /or mechanically

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Synthetic hair

Toray

Synthetic hair of very good quality

High elasticity

High shape retention

Mostly used in golden colour, also white, black and wine read and various mixtures

Very suitable for gel application

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Synthetic hair

„Toray“ selection gold

- Mixture of different diameters, for every brush size an individual mixture

- Best results in elasticity, shape retention and paint holding capacity

- Used for high quality nail design brushes, mainly gel application

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Synthetic hair

• Toray selection „Tiger Toray“

– Toray hair imitating natural colours

– The single fibre is extremely conical shaped

– High shape retention, great snap

– Highest liquid holding capacity for synthetic filaments

Common Toray Tiger Toray

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Synthetic hair

• Wine red Toray

– Toray hair with different diameters

– Wine red colour

– Excellent stability

– High shape retention and low abrasion

– Perfect for gel application and One-

Stroke-technique

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Synthetic hair

• Konex

– Toray imitation

– Made in Korea

– Often in golden or white colour

– Only used in 0,10mm

– For economic brushes and basic equipment

• Other brands for synthetic fibres

– Orolux, Sintelux, Jax, Artisan ...

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Natural bristle

The bristle has multiple tips = flag. The surface of a natural bristle is rough. root shaft

Before bristle can be used by the brushmaker, it has to be cleaned thoroughly and bleached.

The naturally twisted bristle are bound, cooked and dried

After this process they are separated in the same length flag

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Natural bristle

Natural hog bristle mostly from China

Especially strong, because pics are grown in free-range husbandry

Mostly taken from the back of the pics, because there it is the longest and strongest

Colours: white bleached, grey, black

For brushes mainly white bleached

Chungking bristle is especially strong

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Synthetic bristle

Synthetic bristle for artist brushes can have one or multiple tip. The surface is rather smooth.

The synthetic bristle used for brushes is mainly prepared in

Germany

Basic material is Nylon 612

The synthetic bristle is produced through different mechanical processes

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Synthetic Bristle - BRISLON

®

BRISLON

Perfect imitation of natural bristle with artificial flag

Suitable for pastose media

Light colour like natural bristle

Great capillary effect

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Summary

Quality attributes brush head

Paint and water holding capacity

Elasticity

Strength and length of tips

Shape retention

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Ferrules

Seamless ferrules

Made of metal tubes

Silver ferrule:nickel-plated brass tube

Golden ferrule: nickel-plated & gold-plated brass tube

Aluminium ferrule: made of 99%

pure aluminium

Ferrules with seam

Cut out of metal plates

Wraped over a mandrel and soldered

Nickel ferrule: made of nickel plated tin or copper

Metal ferrule: made of tin

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Handles

• Raw material

– Mainly beech and poplar wood from native and renewable forrests in

Europe

– Acrylic handle, plastic handle, aluminium handle

• Varnish

– Different colours,

– different surface effects

• Shapes

– Round “English shape”

– Round short

– cylinder shape

– 3-edged-shape

– Straight shape: acrylic handle or aluminium ZIGMA-Line

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How can I find the right brush ?

• Application

– media gel or acrylics

– technique e.g. one-stroke

– effects e.g. nail art

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Application

- regarding media -

• acrylics

• Requires highest quality of red sable and Kolinsky brushes

• Optimized liquid holding capacity is essential

• Fine but stable tip with good snap is required

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Application

- regarding media -

• Gel application :

• Mainly brushes with synthetic fibres:

– Golden Toray

– Wine red Toray

– Tiger Toray

– Synthetic fibre imitating sable

– The different fibres should be tested with the chosen gel

Red sable:

– Used for gel in flat shape

– Special shapes for NailArt and 3D

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Brush care

Brushes should be valuable tools and not through-away products

For a long duration here some advice:

Never let the brush stand too long in water or cleaning detergent. The brush head can become loose or the ferrule can become rusty.

Always clean the brush thoroughly after every use.

Remove colour from brush head and ferrule

Dry moisture with clean tissue or cloth

Hand the brush upside down to dry

Dry the brush with room temperature

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