CENTS A COPY.
sober. 1918. Vol. XVI. No. 4
NOTICE TO READER: When you finish reading this magazine place a I cent stamp on
notice, hang same to any postal employee and it will he placed in the hands of our soldiers
sailors at the front. No wrapping—no address. A. S. BURLESON, Postmaster-General.
76e M11)-PACIFIC MAGAZINE
of* ofMe
ofAcia/
MEM
UNION
p
Secretary of the Interior,
Carthy as Governor of Hawaii, iind
3it inaugurto cot of Col C. 1 Mcof the l'att-rtteilie t \ssociatiott.
Secretary Lane accepting honorary presitleitc■ •
Edited ID ALEXANDER HUME FORD
HMLTN
CLOSED
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620
,M5
UNITED STATES
Am. News. Co.
AUSTRALASIA
Gordon & GOtch
HAWAII
ORIENT
Pan-Pacific Union
Kelly & Walsh
The Pacific Northwest-The World's New Wonderland
Both, as America's all-year-round vacation and recreation land, as well as
the undoubted future seat of the great commercial and shipping center of the
Pacific Coast, the vast .Puget Sound country has awakened with a start and is
reaching out to every land about the Great Ocean.
British Columbia, Oregon and Washington have elapsed-hands -first,'.through
their really international Northwest- Tourist Association, which is making this
region the great tourist resort for Americans and Pacific people, but now throligh
her commercial bodies, which seek to lock hands with all other Pacific commercial bodies, this Northwest region reaches out for the commerce of the. Pacific.
From the mighty Canadian Frazier River on the North to the equally mighty
Columbia on the South, this vast Puget Sound country that in its area contains
the scenic wonders of the world, has grasped the fact that she is to become one
of the world's greatest commercial empires. Here are being built ships and shipyards as only Britain built these in times gone by ; these shipyards now springing
up to restore the shipping of the world, will not be dismantled, they will create
the shipping of the Pacific and firmly establish the position of the mighty Northwest in the commerce of our greatest of oceans, a commerce that is to not only
astonish the world beyond, but even the very leaders of the two-thirds of the
world's population that live and thrive in Pacific lands.
The future theatre of the world's commerce is the Pacific. The curtain is about
to be raised on the world's new commercial drama ; the first act may well be conceived to lay in the Puget Sound land where the great and growing cities of
Victoria, Vancouver, Seattle, Tacoma and Portland strive in friendly rivalry, for
the commerce and the shipping that is more than enough to crowd their every
dock and even demand the creation of great new cities that we dream not of
today, but that will become realities of tomorrow, perhaps to spring up as if by
magic as did the shipbuilding of the Puget Sound country.
A new commercial era has dawned in the Northwest, largely of her own
creating. New ambitions pulse in the land, and already Seattle has become the leading shipping port on the entire Pacific Coast of North and South America ; new
men and enterprises are pouring into the wonderful invigorating Northwest. ..No
longer do Seattle and her sister cities depend upon the trade of Alaska for their
prosperity. The commerce of the Pacific•becomes their heritage, and the mountains. rivers and fjords of the Northwest are now looked upon as the tempting
vacation ground of the whole world.
In Honolulu, at the Cross-roads of the Pacific, the Pan-Pacific Union and
the Hawaii Promotion Committee gladly welcome those passing through with
information about this Northwest country, but for detailed information it is best
to write Herbert Cuthbert, Secretary of the Pacific Northwest Tourist Association, L. C. Smith Building, Seattle, Wash, U. S. A.
0.11 ateb_p
~trtfr mat
r
..ur
CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD
No. 4.
Vol. XVI.
CONTENTS FOR OCTOBER, 1918.
302
Art Section - 317
A Pan-Pacific Declaration of Independence
319
Declaration of Independence in Pacific Tongues 325
Joseph Platt Cooke—Father of the Pan-Pacific 327
"Our Hawaii"
By Mrs. Jack London.
- 331
Pan-Pacific Questionnaire—Balboa Day 333
The Story of the Chinese Revolution By Leon Waddell.
-
The American Red Cross
-
-
-
- 337
-
By Franklin Adams.
Capitalizing Scenery
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
341
By Nathan A. Bowers.
-
Americanizing the Japanese in Hawaii
-
-
- 345
By Consul-General Moroi.
-
Possibilities of the Philippines
-
-
349
-
By Frank C. Atherton.
Australia's Island State
-
-
-
-
-
- 355
-
By Frank Carpenter.
-
On the Line in the Galapagos
Kauai and the Missionaries
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
359
- 36'
-
367
-
By J. M. Lydgate.
-
The Australian Bound Imigrant -
-
-
By Fred C. Covers.
-
-
Some Latin American Cathedrals
- 373
-
By P. A. Usted.
-
Hamakua, Home of Gods and Ghosts -
-
-
377
By Jean West Maury.
-
The Tragedy of Tarawera
-
-
-
- 383
-
By H. A. Parmelee.
The Mountains of Maui
-
-
-
-
-
-
387
By D. D. Baldwin.
- 390
The Fauna of the Malayan Archipelago 393
A True Geisha
By S. Sheba.
An International Chamber of Commerce (Editorial) -
- 396
Olire I I: th-llarifir f i: nazi-tie
Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H.
Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions,
$2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c.
Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice.
Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine.
AVIi
/4
4
(t) Seen from Nuuanu Pali : Jack London, Lorrin A. Thurston, J P. Cooke
(2) The Sudden Vision. (3) The Mirrored Mountains. (Painting by Hitchcock.)
The three men in the upper picture were founders of the PanPacific Movement. Mrs. London in this number of the MidPacific Magazine tells the story of the first meeting.
HI
(f) Hana. (2) The Red Ruin of Haleakala. (3) Von and Kakina
These are some snap-shots made by the late Jack London during
his trip around the island of Maui.
(t) Damon Gardens, Honolulu. (2) "And then Martin must snap us."
Jack London and his wife are seen here at Pearl Harbor, their
first home in Hawaii, some ten years ago.
(1) Halemaumau, Kilauea, 1907. (2) Jack in Kilauea. (3) Bedecked with Leis.
(4) Halemaumau, 1917.
Mr. and Mrs. London in 1907 completely toured the Big Island of
Hawaii, snapping pictures and gathering data for Mrs. London's
book, "Our Hawaii."
(I) Waikiki, 1915: Mr. and Mrs. London (Center); Mr. A. H. Ford (Right).
(2) A Fragment of Paradise — Coconut Island, Hilo. (3) Jack. (4) Rainbow Falls, Hawaii.
The name of Jack London will forever be associated with Waikiki,
here he wrote his South Sea tales and his last books.
'1111111!
1111111111111111111111111111
(1) Landing at Kalaupapa, roo7. (2) The Forbidden Pali Trail, rgo7• (3) Coast of
Molokai— Federal Leprosarium on shore. (4) Jack in the Leper Settlement,
rgo7. (5) Father Damien's Grave, 19o7.
No one ever wrote a more faithful account of Molokai than did Jack
London, he saw how the hopeless were made happy and told
of it,
15TIAN
lL“NDT AkC
[ET
In California Louis Christian Mullgardt has studied the blending of architecture with nature,
and in this way he is creating an architecture of the Pacific; he was one of the designers of the buildings o t the San Francisco Exposition.
Louis Christian Mullgardt, lover of Nature, designs great structures, and in Yosemite studies
the designs of Nature.
7Sam=0:==olacommIco:=1:E=av
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ol
The old Mission style of architecture is essentially Californian; it is a
heritage of the early religious orders from Spain.
In Japan the temple grounds are the parks of the people, and temple-going is a
pleasure and delight.
04 1/$
7.7411/
-
Everywhere in Japan Ar t, Arc hitecutre and Nature b lend; itis the land where beau ty reigns supreme.
Mount St. Helens and Forsyth Glacier as it looked to t he "Mazamas " while making the ascent.
E liotGlacier andthe Mazama outing party making the ascent to the skyline ridge.
The Declaration of Independance
Read in Ike longues of Ike Pacific
al Honolulu, July 01918.
Al the packing of the Flags of the Pacific Nations
sent to the President of the United Slates by the
Pan-Pacific Union
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CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD
Volume XVI.
OCTOBER, 1918.
Number 4.
A Pan-Pacific Declaration
of Independence
With the Fourth of July suggestion from Australia that there be inaugurated a Monroe Doctrine of the Pacific; the reading of the Declaration of Independence at the Cross-roads of the Great Ocean, by men of many Pacific races,.
was not an inoportune or inappropriate celebration of the Glorious Fourth, for
a Monroe Doctrine applied to the Pacific should and must have the cooperation
and support of every Pacific race if it is to be effective.
Q DOTING from the press of the
day, we are informed that in
Honolulu on the Fourth of July
the Declaration of Independence was
read in twelve tongues of the Pacific at
Arcadia, the home of Ex-Gov. Frear,
who for ten years headed the Pan-Pacific
Union, and at the same time at a monster meeting in Sydney presided over
by Lord Mayor Joynton Smith, the Australian Pan-Pacific Club was listening to
the declaration that America has given
to the world for its own.
Never before was the beautiful colonial home of the Frear's so decorated
with flags, the front of the building and
the lanaies were almost hidden behind
the fifty silk banners of Pacific lands
that are to go to the head of the PanPacific Union, President Woodrow Wilson. As the Declaration of Independence was read in the different tongues
men and maids of Pacific lands in
national costume came forward and as
the girl and boy scouts lowered their
respective flags they were placed in the
large box before the readers of the Declaration, and in this they will go directly
to the President.
With the flag-covered building as a
background those of every Pacific race
gathered at Arcadia, there were Filipino women in the costuming of every
province of the Philippines ; Chinese
children in royal raiment ; Japanese, Korean, Hawaiian, South American, Portuguese, Spanish, Australians, New Zealanders, Canadians and Americans of
every kind. There was a Filipino orchestra and the Royal Hawaiian Band
to render the airs of all Pacific lands.
Lorrin Andrews spoke of the splendid
significance of the gathering together of
all races of the Pacific to listen to and
read in their own tongues the Declaration of Independence, which had now become their declaration and charter of
salvation. Judge Horace M. Vaughan
then spoke briefly and led in the reading of the Declaration.
317
The Declaration of
Independence
When in the course of human events, it becomes necessary for one people to
dissolve the political bands which have connected them with one another, and to
assume among the Powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which
the laws of nature and of nature's God entitle them, a decent respect to the
opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel
them to the separation.
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that
they are endowed by their Creator with certain inalienable rights, that among
these are life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. That to secure these rights,
governments are instituted among men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed. That whenever any form of government becomes destructive of these ends, it is the right of the people to alter or abolish it, and to
institute new government, laying its principles and organizing its powers in such
form as to them shall seem most likely to effect their safety and happiness. Prudence, indeed, will dictate that governments long established should not be
changed for light and transient causes ; and accordingly all experience hath shown
that mankind are more disposed to suffer, while evils are sufferable, than to right
themselves by abolishing the form to which they are accustomed. But when a
long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same object, evinces
a design to reduce them under absolute despotism, it is their right, it is their
duty; to throw off such government, and to provide new guards for their future
security.
We, therefore, the Representatives of the United States of America, in General Congress assembled, appealing to the Supreme Judge of the world for the
rectitude of our intentions, do in the name, and by the authority of the good
people of these Colonies, solemnly publish and declare, That these United Colonies are. and of right ought to be, free and independent states, and that as free
and independent states, they have full power to levy war, conclude peace, contract
alliances, establish commerce, and to do all other acts and things which independent states may of right do. And for the support of this declaration, with a
firm reliance on the protection of Divine Providence, we mutually pledge to each
other our lives, our fortunes, and our sacred honor.
318
Declaration of Independence Read In
Eleven Pacific Tongues
ON JULY 4th IN HONOLULU, HAWAII.
Perhaps for the first time in history was
the Declaration of Independence read in
tongues other than American. At the PanPacific celebration of the Fourth the Declaration was read in Japanese, Chinese,
Korean, Filipino, Java Dutch, Portuguese,
Russian, Hawaiian, Spanish and Maori. The
reading was led by Judge Horace Vaughan
in English, with each following paragraph
read in another language as follows:
AMERICAN
By Judge Vaughan
When in the course of human events it
becomes necessary for one people to dissolve the political bonds which have connected them with one another, and to assume among the powers of the earth the
separate and equal station to which the
laws of nature and of nature's God entitle
them, a decent respect to the opinions of
mankind requires that they should beclare
the causes which impel them to separation.
JAPANESE
By T. Katsunuma
Warerawa sano shinrio jimei nari to
shinzu, i waku, subeteno hitowa umarenagarani shite byoto nari, iwaku, subetteno
hitowa zobutsushu yori uboubekarazaru kenrio fuyoseraru, iwaku kono kenri to yuwa,
seimei jiyu, kofuku no yoria nari.
CHINESE
S. K. Lau
Yum mun chu chuck jing hoo, sau yi ning
luck, see hung suck dong chee wai kin, goo
jing hoo dong yi mun Yee wai ye gwai, moo
lun ho Jung jing hoo, gow you hui charn
yun mun so talk chee ming chay yun mun
duck he yi koy guck chee wark fai chit
chee.
KOREAN
J. Pahk
Sai chungpoo enil chochek haya wai punp
yool enil jai chung hake wa konree enil
goon chung hakea moosam pong myum eniro denge ja eni anthem qua anlake eni kachang you ik hatorck hung halgare.
FILIPINO
N. C. Dizon
Tunay na ang sariling bait ng isang tauo
ay magsasahi na ang mga pamahalaag na
natatag sa malaong panahon ay hindi dapat
mapalitan sa pamamagitan ng mga kadailang hualang tunay na halaga at lilipas sa
isang sandali.
JAVA DUTCH
Mrs. L. F. Leo
dus alle ondervinding heeft beproeven, dat
zoo lang ongerechtigheid bestaat, menschdom zult liever lijden dan om zichzelven te
rechten door de vernietigen hunne gewoondheden.
PORTUGUESE
Margaret Branco
Mas quando um longo curso de abuso e
usurpacao, proseguindo invariavelmente o
mesmo fim, demostra um projecto de reduzir-lhee debaixo de um despotismo absoluto.
RUSSIAN
Irene Campbell
Eta eh pravo eta eh doll svermoot takoe
pravlenie i verbat nove po-krovetelei gliar
eh buduschei obezperenostie.
HAWAIIAN
John Lane
Nolaila a makou o na Wahaolelo ona
Mokuaina i Huipuia o Amerika, e nohoana
Holt() oka Ahaolelo Laula ke uwalo aku nei
ika Lunakanawai Pookela o ke Ao no ka
hooponopono ana i ko makou mau manao
hana ae hooko ia ma ka Inoa a ma ka
Mana Aupuni o ka poe kaulike o keia mau
Aina i Hui ia. Me ka walohia ke hoolaha a
ke kuahaua ia aku nei.
SPANISH
D. Mardinodo
Que estas unidas Colonias son, y en derecho deben ser, estados libres e independientes.
MAORI (New Zealand)
C. F. Maxwell
A, irunga i te tikanga he iwi rangitara
ratou, ka taea e ratou te kii whawhai, te
whakamau rongo hoki, te whakahoa mai ki
etahi atu iwi, me te whakatakoto ritenga
hokohoko taonga ma ratou, a kia mahia
katoatia era atu mea kua tika kia whakahaerea e te hungaJ rangatira.
AUSTRALIA AND ALLIES
F. Harrison
And for the support of this Declaration,
with a firm reliance on the protection of
divine providence, we mutually pledge to
each other our lives, our fortunes, and our
sacred honor.
319
320
THE MID-PACIFIC
A Portuguese maid, in her turn, reading, a paragraph of the Declaration of Independence.
For presentation to the President of
the United States the Japanese designed a banner which they will hereafter use at all Pan-Pacific gatherings of
Japanese people, as it represents the
Japanese in every part of the Great
Ocean, it is their Pan-Pacific emblem.
Writing of the Japanese emblem, Dr.
I. Mori, speaking for his people, explains :
"The present flag of Japan, like those
of other nations, is an evolution from
symbols of former times. Flags have
been used indeed from the dawn of history. Tradition coming down from even
mythological times makes mention of
flags and banners used on ceremonial
ocassions as well as in times of war.
The symbols on such flags were various.
Some were adorned with the disc of the
sun, others with that of the moon, and
others again had representations of birds
on them. We are told that on New
Year's Day, 603 A. D., flags were used
in decorating the Imperial Palace of
the Emporer Suiko. The Imperial ensign had existed in one form or another
from remote times, the different ages
adopting different designs. It was usually in the better form, and quite long.
The form most commanly used consisted
of two long banners with the sun and
the moon, the length being thirteen feet
and the material brocade. The banners
hung from a cross-bar on a pole.
"The rising sun as a representation on
flags is very old in Japan, having been
used in various ways from time immemorial. The design of a red sun on a
white background had a natural attraction for the Japanese ; it is so simple and
expressive. In ancient times Japan was
supposed to be the land nearest to where
the sun rises ; it was the 'sun-birth country, and so the Chinese called it. And
when the Yamato came to these islands
they were wont to call themselves the
people of the sunrise land. In fact, the
sun was an object of worship. The name
`Nippon' means sun-source ; the land of
THE MID-PACIFIC
321
Children of all Pacific races taking part in the Fourth of July celebration.
the people born of the sun. There is
nothing strange, therefore, in the Japanese having adopted the sun as their
flag symbol. The flag of the rising sun
came into use as the flag of the whole
nation in the later Takugawa days.
When Japan came into contact with foreign nations some national emblem was
found necessary for ships, and the rising
sun flag was so used. It was not, however, adopted as the national flag until
after the visit of Commodore Perry. The
Shogun in 1863 first made use of it, but
was limited to ships only; and then in
1870 it was formally adopted as the
national flag of Japan. Since then it has
continued and still continues to float most
proudly over her progress and prosperity.
"This flag specially designed for the
present occasion is in banner form adopting the ancient banner and ten feet long.
Near the top of it is a red disk of the
sun on the white background ; and above
the red disc are three blue stripes which
represent the three principal islands of
Japan proper. The familiar colors of
the American flag, the red, white and the
blue, are thus reproduced on this banner."
The Filipinos presented their flag, to
be consecrated by the reading of the
Declaration of Independence over its
folds, and the following is the explanation of its significance as explained by
N. C. Dizon.
Like the "Stars and Stripes" the Filipino flag was conceived at the time of
bloodshed, when love for one's country
is measured by the amount of blood
poured out. This was after the year 1896
when Dr. Jose Rizal was shot in the open
field of Ragongbayan, and when the Katipunan Society was founded by Andres
Bonifacio and his associates to oppose the
tyranny of the Spanish government in the
Philippines by force, since the peace
means was of no avail.
In the explanation of the flag the noble
aspiration of the Filipino leaders of the
322
THE MID-PACIFIC
0111111b
**MI
511
Secretary of the Interior Franklin K. Lane and Gov. McCarthy receiving the flags of
the Pacific to be transmitted to President Wilson.
revolution for the liberty of their country
will be seen.
The flag should be hung with the blue
color up, as this, according to the founders of the Katipunan Society, represents
the sky of the heavens which can be
reached only through the spilling of blood
to the ground. The red color below
stands for the blood that must be poured.
The white typifies purity, showing that
the aim of the Filipino revolutionists is
high, noble and just.
The three stars portray the three main
divisions of the Philippines—Luzon, the
Visayas and Mindanao, just as each star
in the American flag stands for each state
in the Union.
The sun in the middle signifies liberty,
the shining of which ushers in a new era
for the country. As the coming of the
sun to earth dispels all darkness and
gloom so" does the coming of liberty,
through the shedding of blood, drives
away the injustice and oppression of the
Spanish Government and the tyranny and
inquisition of the Roman Church from the
Philippine Islands.
The following speech delivered by Say
Kan Lou, official Chinese Interpreter of
the First Circuit Court of Hawaii, to
Hon. Franklin K. Lane, Secretary of the
Interior of the United States of America,
when, on June 22nd, 1918, the Chinese
emblem was presented, explains the significance of the service flag that goes to
the President:
"The American-Chinese Federation in
Hawaii respectfully request you to present this service flag to President Wilson
as a sincere token of their loyalty to
the United States.
The 50o Chinese-Americans represented by the stars in this flag are all willing
to give up their property and even their
lives to fight this war to a victorious conclusion. They resolve, come weal or woe,
that they will now and forever stand by
the Stars and Stripes, emblem of liberty,
THE MID-PACIFIC
equality and fraternity for all mankind,
that luminous symbol of resistless beneficent power that will lead them to victory and immortal freedom.
When President Wilson looks upon this
emblem, it is the hope of the Chinese community here in Hawaii that it will remind
him of their stand for liberty and their
close co-operation with the aim and purposes of the United States."
The Koreans in Hawaii designed that
emblem from the ancient flag of Chosan,
Dr. Syngman Rhee, Korean leader in
Hawaii and a graduate of Princeton,
writes :
"The following is the meaning of the
Korean Palquei flag : These emblems
found in ancient classics represents the
heaven and the earth. The ancient rulers
of Korea adopted these for a royal banner
which always stood before the throne hall
or marched in front of the royal chair
in the time of the King's procession. The
323
modern flag of Korea is the evolution of
these ancient symbols."
The silken flag of Hawaii, upon which
were laid all other flags of the Pacific, to
be covered by the starry banner presented
by the Sons and Daughters of the American Revolution, was made from the silk
that went into the flag worked by the
late ex-Queen Liliuokalani, presented by
her to the Pan-Pacific Union at Iolani
Palace, on Balboa Day, Sept. 17th, 1915.
The banner was presented by ex-Mayor
of Honolulu, John Lane, a Hawaiian
noble.
It may be said that the flags of the
Pacific now on their way to President
Wilson were consecrated on the Fourth
of July as the Declaration of Independence was read over them, and now go to
the President of the United States as
tokens of fealty of all Pacific races and
peoples to the doctrine Woodrow Wilson
has promulgated of a World Democracy.
Where all Pacific races mingle, in Hawaii.
324
THE MID-PACIFIC
THE LATE JOSEPH PLATT COOKE
Trustee of the Pan-Pacific Union and one of its founders.
THE MID-PACIFIC
325
Joseph Platt Cooke
0
N July 26th, one who might well
be called the father of the PanPacific Movement, passed away in Honolulu, at the cross-roads of the Great
Ocean.
After more than ten years of faithful
co-operation with his fellow directors in
the creation and direction of the PanPacific Union, Joseph Platt Cooke was
called by death at the still active age
of forty-seven.
It was on the broad veranda of the
Honolulu home of J. P. Cooke that the
Hands around the Pacific movement was
first discussed early in 1907, and immediately thereafter at a lunch with the then
Governor of Hawaii, "Walter F. Frear,
the organization that is now the PanPacific Union, was born.
When three years ago declining health
compelled Mr. Cooke to withdraw from
all outside directorates he made an exception of the Pan-Pacific Union, assisting in its incorporation, maintenance and
conduct until his death.
The June, 1912, Mid Pacific Magazine
contained a brief biography of J. P.
Cooke, "A Son of Hawaii." He was then,
as he remained to the end of his career,
Hawaii's leading citizen.
We quote briefly :
The recognized head of the Cooke
family in Hawaii is Joseph Platt Cooke,
who not yet forty years of age is the
head and manager of the largest American firm in the islands, Alexander &
Baldwin. • This firm succeeded to the
sugar estates of Claus Spreckels, the
sugar king, and vastly enlarged them.
It has been under the leadership of its
founder, H. P. Baldwin, and under his
successor and son-in-law, J. P. Cooke,
the aggressively progressive factor in
Americanizing the islands.
J. P. Cooke was educated as a boy in
Hawaii and, as is usual with the male
members of his family, passed through
Yale.
In writing his series of articles on
Hawaii for the American Magazine, Ray
Stannard Baker held up Mr. Cooke as
the leading financier and political general in Hawaii. He also spoke of him as
the leading American in Hawaii desirous of more thoroughly Americanizing
the islands. This desire on the part of
the Hawaiian financier is true to an extent that few even in Hawaii realize.
On the great sugar estate whose destinies he controls hundreds of acres under his direction have been cut up into
homesteads and inducements put forth
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THE MID-PACIFIC
to tempt the American to occupy them,
and with success.
Perhaps no man in Hawaii anywhere
nearly exerts the quiet influence for good
that emanates from the head of the firm
of Alexander & Baldwin. J. P. Cooke,
perhaps least of all men, fully realizes the
power for good that he wields, consciously or unconsciously, in the community.
If a new philanthropic organization is
to be launched, the first question asked
by the man on the street who is approached with the subscription list, is :
"What does J. P. Cooke think of it ?"
If it is a business venture, the question
is usually asked : "Is J. P. in it ?"
friendly, political and business working
force for joint friendly work in making
the advantages of Pacific lands known to
all the world, J. P. Cooke gave hearty
assurances of his support. He was the
first to do so, and Governor Frear of
Hawaii the second. These two men
have never since wavered for a moment
in their loyalty to the plan that has
grown, largely through their influence
and backing, until today it embraces all
the nations and races of the Pacific in a
friendly grasp.
The Hands-Around-the-Pacific Movement was first discussed in the home of
J. P. Cooke, and there is was born. Today its leaders and officers are Governors,
The watchword of this leader is liberPremiers and Presidents of the lands
ality and loyalty. Once he has proven
about the Great Ocean.
his lieutenants, he trusts them to the
In keeping with the modest life of this
limit, and they work with him as only a
truly great man his interment was unostrusted leader can inspire work for some
tentatious, only the members of the famnoble cause. His activities do not cease
ily following the urn bearing his ashes,
with Hawaii ; they are felt in the fartherwhich his young son Henry laid in its
most parts of the Pacific.
resting place. His elder son, Joseph Platt
When the matter of bringing the peo- Cooke, a volunteer in France, is a member
ple of the Pacific together in a solid of the aviation service.
Charmian Kittredge London at the wheel of the "Snark."
"OUR HAWAII"
And the Pan-Pacific Propaganda
CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON (Mrs. Jack London)
Charmion Kittredge London has pub- itor of this magazine in Hawaii, was the
lished the dairy of her life in Hawaii and invitation of J. P. Cooke to make up an
that of her husband, Jack London. It is automobile party for a trip as his guests,
a book of several hundred fascinating around the island of Oahu. Mrs. London,
pages, with many illustrations, brought her husband and Lorin A. Thurston were
those selected as the guests and close, .
out by the Macmilllan Company.
In quoting from "Our Hawaii" at this lifelong friendships were cemented in the
time the editor will be forgiven if he se- two or three days that the journey lasted.
lects those paragraphs that deal with the On that outing was formed the real
Pan Pacific movement, for this movement neucleus of the Pan Pacific. movement.
was born during Jack London's first stay
If the editor's name seems too frein Hawaii, and with Jack London and Jo- quently and conspicuously mentioned in
seph Platt Cooke, the birth of the Pan
this and other articles in the Mid Pacific
Pacific Union is closely identified ; they
Magazine, the readers are asked to be
have both passed away.
lenient.
In the course of events he, too,
The first courtesy extended to the ed327
328
THE MID-PACIFIC
must leave the work for others to carry
on.
Let us hear what Mr. and Mrs. London had to say about the Pan Pacific
work:
"Back at Waikiki, the spreading
bungalow seemed home indeed, with our
own servants, always adoring of Jack,
smiling welcome from the wide lanai.
"Almost do we feel ourselves KamaaMa, Mate Woman," he would say, arm
about my shoulders, while we welcomed
or sped Honolulu guests, or watched,
beyond the Tyrian dyes of the reef,
smoke of steamers that brought to us
visitors from the Coast. "Only, never
forget—it is not for us to say."
One thing that earned Jack London
his kamaainaship was his activity for
the Pan-Pacific Club. Under the algarobas at Pearl Harbor, in 1907, one day
he and Mr. Ford had discussed socialism—upon Ford's initiative. "Well,"
the latter concluded, "I can't 'see' your
socialism. My idea is, to find out what
people want first, help them to it. then
make them do what you wish them to do ;
and if it is right, they will do it—if you
keep right after them ! . . . Now, I'm soon
leaving for Australia and around the
Pacific at my own expense, to see if there
is a way to get the peoples to work together for one another and for the Pacific."
"That's socialism—look out!" Jack
contentedly blew rings into the still air.
"I don't care if it is," retorted his
friend. "That won't stop me. Walter
Frear has just been appointed Governor
of Hawaii, and I've interested him, and
carry an official letter with me. Hawaii, with her mixture of Pacific races,
yet with no race problems, should be the
country to take the lead. I'm going to
call a Pan-Pacific Convention here."
"Go to it, Ford, and I'll help all I can."
Jack approved.
"All right, then," Ford snapped him
up. "Address the University Club next
week !"
"Sure I will, and glad to, though you
know how I despise public speaking."
And Jack kept his promise, while Mr.
Ford was presently off on his mission to
Australasia.
On the day of our return from California to Honolulu in 1915, while helping us find a house at Waikiki, Mr.
Ford recounted the growing of his venture, which he declared needed only
Jack's further co-operation to carry it
through to success. Weekly dinners
were giveit by Ford in the lanai of the
Outrigger Club, at which on occasion
there were present a score of the leading Hawaiians, or Chinese, or Japanese,
Koreans, Filipinos, or Portuguese, to exchange ideas with the leading white
men who were behind the movement.
The speeches and discussions were of
vital interest, all bent toward bringing
about a working in unison for the mutual benefit of Pacific nations.
Out of these affairs sprang up interesting friendships between ourselves and
these foreigners and their families, resulting in social functions in our respective homes and at the foreign clubs, and
also at the Japanese theatres. Would
that all the international differences of
the Union might be handled as harmoniously as they are in Hawaii. • During our last sojourn in Honolulu, more
than one Japanese father assured us :
"My sons were born under your flag.
I should expect them to fight under your
flag if need arose."
One evening, at the Outrigger Club,
Jack spoke the Pan-Pacific doctrine of
Friend Ford before the Congressional
visitors and three hundred representatives of the various nationalities in Hawaii, all of whom responded enthusiastically through their orators.
The Pan-Pacific Club grows apace,
with headquarters at the University Club
THE MID-PACIFIC
329
At the Outrigger Club, where Jack London first wrote in Hawaii.
in Honolulu, in the room where Jack
first fulfilled his pledge to speak on the
subject. In this room, on Balboa Day,
1917, Finn Haakon Frolich's splendid
bust of Jack London, modeled on the
Ranch in 1915, was unveiled ; while at
Waikiki, beneath the date-palm that
marks the site of the brown tent-house,
a Jack London Memorial drinking fountain, is to be erected.
In San Francisco, Alexander Hume
Ford has under way the project for a
great skyscraper to be called the PanPacific Building, with headquarters
therein for this club the name of which
is now ringing around the Pacific Ocean.
And while he, Mr. Ford, is the discoverer of this New Pacific, humbly he insists that without Jack London it would
have been a longer, stronger pull to
bring about the present situation."
And now for the reminescences of
those first days in Hawaii, when friendships were formed that shall last forever.
Waikiki, Friday, June 28, 1907.
To Mr. Ford we owe a new debt of
gratitude. And so does Hawaii, for
such another promoter never existed. All
he does is for Hawaii, desiring nothing
for himself except the feverish, unremitting pleasure of sharing the attractions of his adopted land. The past two
days have been spent encircling Oahu,
or partly so, since only the railroad con-
tinues around the entire shore-line, the
automobile drive cutting across a tableland midway of the island.
The two machines carried ten of us,
including the drivers, two young fellows
who, it was plain to see, hung upon
every word of Jack—oyster pirate,
tramp, war correspondent, and what not.
The party was composed of men whom
Mr. Ford wanted Jack to know, representing the best of Hawaii's white citizenship. There was Mr. Joseph P.
Cooke, dominating figure of Alexander
& Baldwin, which firm is the leading
financial force of the Islands (it was Mr. ,
Cooke's missionary grandparents, the •
Amos P. Cookes, who founded and for
many years conducted what was known
as the "Chiefs' School," afterward called
the "Royal School," which was patronized by all of the higher chiefs and their
families) ; Mr. Lorrin A. Thurston, descended from the first missionaries, and
associated conspicuously with the affairs of Hawaii, both monarchical and
republican—and incidentally owner of
the morning paper of Honolulu ; and
Senor A. de Souza Canovarro, Portuguese Consul, an able man who has lived
here twenty years and whose brain is
shelved with Islands lore.
Four miles fro mthe end of the cartrack, quite unexpectedly to me, suddenly the machine emerged from a narrow
defile upon a platform hewn out of the
330
THE MID-PACIFIC
rocky earth, and my senses were momentarily stunned, for it seemed that the
island had broken off, fallen away beneath our feet to the east. On foot,
pressing against a wall of wind that eternally drafts through the gap, the threading among a dozen small pack mules
resting on the way to Honolulu, we
gained the railed brink of the Pali. I
looked down a thousand feet into an
emerald abyss over the awful pitch of
which Kamehameha a century ago
forced the warriors of the King of Oahu,
Kalapikupule—a "legion of the lost
lost ones" whose shining skulls became
souvenirs for strong climbers in succeeding generations. Some one pointed
to a ferny, bowery spot far below, where
Prince Cupid once kept a hunting cabin ;
but there was now neither trace of it nor
of any trail penetrating the dense jungle.
Several miles farther, we came to the
Reform School, where the erring youth
of Oahu are guided in the way they
should go, by Mr. Gibson, a keen-faced,
wiry man, who has made splendid showing with the boys, these being largely
of the native stock. There was not a
criminal face among them, and probably
the majority are detained for temperamental laxness of one sort or another.
Emotional they are, and easily led, and
inordinately fond of games of chance—
but dishonest never. A small sugar plantation is carried on in connection with
the school, which is worked by the boys.
Our last lap was from the Reform
School to Waialua, which lies at the sea
edge of the Waialua Plantation. Haleiwa means "House Beautiful," and is pronounced Hah-lay-e-vah.
House and grounds are very attractive, broad lawns sloping to an estuary
just inside the beach, and in this riverlike bit of water picturesque fishing
boats and canoes lie at anchor. A span
of rustic Japanese bridge leads to the
bath-houses, and here we went for a
swim before dinner.
Leaving Haleiwa next morning, we
deserted the seashore for. very different
country. For a while the motor ascended steadily toward the southwest, on a
fine red road—so red that on ahead the
very atmosphere was roseate. Looking
back as we climbed, many a lovely surfpicture rewarded the quest of our eyes,
white breakers ruffling the creamy
beaches, with a sea bluer than the deep
blue sky.
At an elevation of about eight hundred feet one strikes the rolling green
prairieland of the "Plains," where the
ocean is visible northwest and southeast,
on both sides of the island. Such a wonderful plateau, between mountain-walls,
swept by the freshening northeast trade
—miles upon miles of rich grazing, and
hill upon hill ruled with blue-green lines
of pineapple growth. At one pineapple
plantation we stopped that Jack might
take a look around at the fabulously
promising industry. Mr. Kellogg, the
manager, gave an interesting demonstration of how simple is the cultivation of
the lucious "pines," and held stoutly
that a woman, unaided, could earn a
good Jiving out of a moderate patch.
"So you see, my dear," Jack advised
me, "when I can't write any longer, you
can keep both of us at Wahiawa !"
Something went wrong with Mr.
Cook's machine, and he was obliged to
telephone from Wahiawa to Honolulu
for some fixtures. Think of this old
savage isle in the middle of the Pacific
Ocean, where, from its high interior, one
may talk, over a wire to a modern city,
for modern parts of a "horseless carriage," to be sent by steam over a steel
track ! It is stimulating once in a day to
ponder the age in which we live.
And on one of these ridges near Wahiawa, not so long ago, there preyed a
sure-enough ogre, a robber-chief whose
habit it was to lie in wait in a narrow
pass, and pounce upon his victims, whom
he slew on a large, flat rock."
Balboa, or Pan-Pacific Day in Hawaii
The Pan-Pacific Questionnaire
BALBOA DAY
e'e
What is Balboa Day, and when does
it occur?
Balboa, or Pan-Pacific Day, occurs on
the 17th of September ; it was so named
by the late Ex-Queen Liliuokalani of
Hawaii. It commemorates the discovery of the Pacific by Vasco Nunez de
Balboa in 1513. Balboa Day was first
observed in 1915 at the old Royal Palace in Honolulu, to the throne in which
the Ex-Queen of Hawaii returned for
the first time in 23 years, on this occasion to receive for the Pan-Pacific
Union the flags of all Pacific nations
in token of their desire for an era of
better understanding and closer cooperation.
Has the idea of observing Balboa,
or Pan-Pacific Day grown?
Yes. San Francisco on Sept. 17th,
1917, held its first annual Pan-Pacific
banquet at which some five hundred men
of all races of the Pacific resident in
San Francisco gathered together and
organized a local Pan-Pacific Club,
which is pledged to hold annual banquet gatherings on Balboa Day.
Are other cities taking up the observance of Balboa Day?
Yes, cities in Australia, China and
Japan, where there are local Pan-Pacific
organizations, now observe Balboa Day
by gathering those in these cities from
other Pacific lands about the banquet
board to freely discuss the best methods of bringing about international
good-will and cooperation among the
peoples of the Pacific.
331
332
THE MID-I- ACIFIC
Is Balboa Day observed in Washington, the national capital of the United
States?
Yes. It was scheduled that on Balaoa Day of this year in Washington,
D. C., that the flags of all nations of
the Pacific, over which, at the crossroads of the ocean, on July the Fourth
the Declaration of Independence had
been read in the tongues of the Pacific,
should be presented to President Wilson
by Secretary of the Interior Franklin
K. Lane, who received them for that
purpose in Hawaii. President Wilson
will be asked to act as an honorary
president of the Pan-Pacific Union.
What plans are there for making the
observation of Balboa, or Pan-Pacific
Day, general in Pacific lands?
The Pan-Pacific Union is sending out
a request to Pan-Pacific clubs, chambers of commerce, and kindred civic
organizations, to make this the one day
of the year on which there shall be
local gatherings of men of all Pacific
races that they may meet together and
become better acquainted.
What is the usual form of observing
Balboa Day?
A Pan-Pacific banquet is usually the
feature of Balboa Day, with a table reserved for those of each race of the
Pacific, and a brief five-minute speaker
from each table. Often there is no
chairman, the first speaker introducing
his successor and so on to the end of
the program until each country of the
Pacific has been heard from. Often on
Balboa Day cables are exchanged between Cities observing the occasion by
banquets and speeches.
How may further information be obtained concerning Balboa Day observances?
By writing to the Pan-Pacific Union,
Honolulu. Here, at the cross-roads of
the ocean, are held weekly Pan-Pacific
luncheons, and often the speakers at
these are world leaders from the several Pacific lands. On these occasions
views are exchanged, Honolulu at the
cross-roads, lending itself splendidly .to
the interchange of ideas among Pacific
leaders who meet, often inadvertently
although gladly, in Honolulu while their
steamers are in port.
What in brief is the biography of
Balboa ?
Vasco Nunez de Balboa was born 400
years ago in Portugal, then a part of
Spain. An adventurer to the new world,
it was he who suggested the founding
of Darien, the oldest North American
city, and Balboa was its first alcalde.
Diego. Columbus in 1513 commissioned
him Captain General of Darien, and Balboa's first act thereafter was to cross
the isthmus of Darien, practically over
the route of what is now the Panama
Canal. From a high hill, or mountain,
on Sept. 25th, old style (Sept. 17th),
1513 Balboa beheld the blue waters of
the Pacific, so called because of its
peaceful appearance, and around this
ocean that he named "Peaceful" it seems
fitting that "Balboa" Day should be observed by the gathering together of all
men of Pacific races to plan that they
may perpetuate and carry into effect
this dream, of an ocean about the
shores of which men work for each
other and seek to understand and aid
each other that all may in plenty and
contentment enjoy the blessings of perpetual peace. So it is that the 17th of
September has been set aside as PanPacific Day, when all men of all races
of our ocean, are asked to meet and
mingle that they may come to know
each other that on a cornerstone of
mutual understanding may be built the
perfect structure that cooperation will
create.
The Story of the Chinese Revolution
By LEON WADDELL.
of Nanning, South China.
ZU
The Mid-Pacific Magazine will be glad to publish from time to time, articles
such as this story of the Chinese Revolution contributed by Mr. Waddell. The
opinions expressed are of course those of the writer of the article, and not necessarily those of the magazine.—Editor.
With the whole world at war, news
papers have very little space to devote
to the political situation in China; therefore it may be of interest to the readers
of the "Mid-Pacific Magazine" to hear
from one who is in the midst of the turmoil in China.
The Republic was established six years
ago chiefly through the efforts of a
Hawaiian-born Chinese, Dr. Sun Yat
Sen, and a group of young radicals, mostly Cantonese. Dr. Sun became the provisional president and established his
government at Nanking, a city near
Shanghai and formerly the capitol of
South China. The old Manchu regime
could not have been so easily overturned
had it not been that the Imperial court
was absolutely bankrupt, that the Emp-
ress Dowager and her son had both died,
and that the throne was occupied by a
child only a few years of age. The prime
minister under the old monarchy arranged with Dr. Sun at Nanking that the
boy Emperor should abdicate in favor
of a Republican form of government provided that he (the prime minister, Yuan
Shih Kai) should be made the first president of China. Dr. Sun realized, that if
the Manchus showed any opposition at
all that he and his party would be driven
back to Canton, so he willingly turned
over the reins of government to Yuan
Shih Kai. An election was held and a
parliament set up.
China was entirely unsuited to the new
form of government. Elections were impossible, as the masses were too ignorant
to vote. For thousands of years the peo333
334
THE MID-PACIFIC
ple had been accustomed to an absolute
dictatorship, and knew nothing of self
government. Under the Monarchy every
province, city or village was sold to an
official who made back the purchase price
and interest by "squeezing" the people.
At the present time the old idea prevails,
and official positions are bought at high
prices and the purchaser is expected to
make expenses, salary and a generous
surplus out of the "squeeze." For this
reason the government has found it
necessary to place the chief sources of
revenue, the customs, the salt monopoly
and the post office, under the supervision
of foreigners.
The average Chinese today doesn't
know what a vote is and doesn't want to
know. He thinks and talks about the
price of rice and vegetables, nothing
else. Although China has been a republic for six years, I have never met or
heard of a man who has cast a ballot, nor
can I find anyone who knows what class
is qualified to vote.
As I have said, the reform movement
started among Cantonese who had been
impressed with the American form of
government when students in America,
and the first revolution was chiefly financed by Chinese in the United States. It
may be interesting to know that practically every Chinese in America outside
the student class, is a Cantonese from
the district of Sunning, and that the city
of Sunning is the most sanitary and the
richest in China.
Dissention among the political leaders
began at once. Dr. Sun, who had returned to Canton with a large fortune,
kept things moving in the South, while
President Yuan Shih Kai ran things with
a high hand at Peking. He decided that
a republic must fail in China, so dissolved
parliament and chose one thousand of his
faithful followers to constitute the second
parliament. This was not approved by
the Cantonese for in the first parliament
which had been dissolved, they were in a
large majority, whereas in the second
they were in the minority. Finally,
Yuan Shih Kai was elected Emperor of
China and a monarchical form of government re-established by the second parliament.
This' last move on the part of China's
first president 'caused universal disapproval and the vissilating Yuan Shih Kai
declared that he never had wished to be
Emperor and that he had always held
a republican form of government sacred.
Accordingly, his faithful followers in the
second parliament re-established the republic, with Yuan Shih Kai as president.
This prevented a revolt in Canton and
South China, but things didn't ease up
much in Peking and the North, for the
people north of Shanghai preferred a
monarchy.
President Yuan Shih Kai mysteriously
died soon after his re-election in the
spring of 1916, and the vice-president, Li
Yung Hung, became chief executive in
June. Li as vice-president and a military
leader had been very strong, but as a
president 'he was absolutely inadequate.
He failed for four reasons :
I. It was believed that he was dominated by Japan, and was unable to do
anything until he had first consulted the
Japanese minister at Peking.
2. His government was entirely bankrupt and what was worse, had pledged
the customs revenue, to secure the Boxer
inidemnity payments ; the salt monopoly
revenue, to secure government railway
loans ; and had pledged the surplus of
the salt revenue and the American refund of the Boxer indemnity to secure
recent loans made by Japan to keep the
Bank of China and the Bank of Communications solvent.
3. The eighteen provinces of China
and the three provinces of Manchuria
when they established the republic, reserved all power to the provincial governments. Thus the governor of this,
Kwangsi, province, when called upon to
THE MID-PACIFIC
send the land tax or any other federal
revenue collected in his province, to Peking, replies to the President of China,
"Dear Sir, As the crops have been bad
in my province this year and as the cost
of maintaining the provincial army is
very great, I find it impossible to remit
to you any revenue whatsoever."
Does the federal government remove
such a governor? Yes, it tried to remove
three in South China recently, but in each
case the governor and his, province declared independence, the same as southern states did in Civil War days, and at
the present moment these three provinces
are fighting all the rest of China, and
with success. The point is this : Under
the present constitution, China has twenty-one units independent of each other,
each speaking a different dialect, with
the poorest means of inter-communication, with no national loyalty or patriotism, but with a tremendous loyalty to the
individual province.
4. President Li failed because the
country is divided, North and South, and
has been so divided for hundreds of
years. The geographical line of separation is the Yangtze River, which is also
the political and racial line of demarcation. Shanghai is in the hands of both
parties, and it is such a stampede ground
for political parties that the city council
has prohibited Chinese gatherings of any
sort within the limits of the international
concessions. At one time China was divided into two Empires, North and
South, of the Yangtze. The word Peking signifies North Capitol, while Nanking means South Capitol. It has been
the opinion of many foreigners of long
residence in China that the trouble here
cannot be permanently settled without a
separation of the north and south, the
north having a monarchical government
similar to that of Japan and the South
with a Republic.
President Li Yuan Hung, though a
very good and honest man, was complete-
335
ly dominated by his premier, Tuan Chi
Jui, of great intelligence and initiative,
who has proved himself a thorough
statesman, and a man working continually for the good of China. At least
the foreign diplomats have this opinion
of him at Peking, although the Cantonese of the Southern party claim that he
is dominated by Japan. Since I reached
China in November, 1916, I have heard
no end of discussion for and against the
policies of the premier, Tuan. The President counted for nothing, said nothing,
and did nothing, Tuan was everything.
He had the backing of most of the northern troops and the support of a majority
of the northern provincial governors.
When the United States joined the allies in the present war, Than and his cabinet decided that it would be to the best
interests of China to join also. They reasoned somewhat in this way :
1. America is our model in all things.
If she finds it wise to join the allies, it
must be to our best advantage to follow
suit.
2. By joining the allies China will no
longer have to pay $20,000.00 Mex. per
day to Germany for the Boxer indemnity.
3. The German concessions at Hankow and Tientsin can be taken back.
4. The German city of Tsingtau, captured by the Japanese, will be secured by
China, for, being an ally of Japan in the
European war, Japan will be unable to
withhold Tsingtau from China.
5. China will have a voice in the ultimate peace settlement, and at that time
can secure some consideration from all
parties, possibly the relinquishment of
the foreign concessions in Tientsin, Hankow, Shanghai, Canton, Tsingtau, Amoy,
Chefoo and other important Chinese
cities. Far more important would be a
recognition of China by the allied powers which would make all foreign encroachment impossible.
The premier declared war and the
Canton party immediately said "We can
336
THE MID-PACIFIC
stand this no longer, the premier is playing us into the hands of the Japanese,
we must start another revolution ; and
the governor of Kwangtung, the province in which Canton is located, borrowed sufficient money for such a revolution from the Japanese bank, giving
the only unpledged government property,
the Canton cement works, as security.
Japan is always ready to loan money to
China, even though the security may be
very small. A government bank, the
Bank of Taiwan, maintains a branch in
Canton for the purpose of lending money
to the Chinese officials. President Li
then dissolved parliament and dismissed
Premier Tuan.
At this point General Chang Huen appeared in Peking with his pigtail army.
He entered the capitol as the protestor of
the Republic, and guardian of the President's person, but President Li put very
little confidence in his outlaw bodyguard.
Chang Huen conspired with certain old
Manchu leaders, ex-officials under the old
monarchy, and suddenly placed the boy
Emperor, who is now twelve years of
age, upon the throne. General Chang
Huen assumed the office of Regent and
Premier. The president and republican
officials fled from Peking to Tientsin and
Shanghai as fast as trains could carry
them. Vice-president Feng Kwo Chang,
who had a strong body of troops at Nanking, marched north, and was joined by
troops under the governors of various
northern provinces. Within a few days
several small encounters were had around
Peking, and when Republican airplanes
began dropping bombs upon the Winter
Palace, Chang Hung fled to the Austrian
consulate, where he and his family were
given protection until they could secretly
leave the city. Vice-President Feng now
took up the reins of government as
President Li refused to return to Peking.
Feng gave the task of forming a new
cabinet to ex-Premier Tuan. The South
demanded the removal of Tuan and the •
resignation of his cabinet, and that exPresident Li be placed in office again.
Dr. Sun Yat Sen appeared before the
Cantonese public as grand champion of
the constitution. He maintained that as
the parliament dissolved by ex-President
Li was the only one constitutionally elected, that a new parliament which had confirmed the appointment of ex-Premier
Tuan as premier under Vice-president
Feng, had no valid authority.
The home of the National Red Cross in Washington, D. C.
Built as a memorial to the heroic women, North and South, of the Civil War.
The American National Red Cross
By FRANKLIN ADAMS
Editor Pan-American Union Bulletin
N March 27, 1915, in the pres- terrible fratricidal strife that for four
ence of a large assembly of dis- long years divided a great nation. - That
tinguished people, among other monument stands today a completed thing
participants in the ceremonies being the of beauty, a perpetual reminder of the
President of the United States, Woodrow heroism of those who suffered worse than
Wilson, and ex-President William How- death in their helpless anguish—the
ard Taft, an important event occurred in women who surrendered their fathers,
Washington, D. C. It was the occasion brothers, husbands and sons to the pitiof the laying of • the corner-stone of a less monster of war.
beautiful marble building—"A Memorial
It is dedicated in perpetuity to the uses
to the Heroic Women of the Civil War" of the American National Red Cross,
—a majestic monument consecrated to and is to be the headquarters of its adthe memory of the women of the North- ministration. Surely no better, no holier
ern and Southern States, those women office could be assigned to it than that
who had lived and suffered during that of being the home of the greatest and
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most efficient organization for the alleviation of suffering and want that human
love and mercy have yet been able to devise.
To trace the history of the American
Red Cross and its varied activities from
the time of its first organization in 1881
to the present is far beyond the scope
of this brief sketch.
The permanent establishment of Red
Cross societies in practically all of the
civilized countries of the world was the
result of an international conference held
in Geneva, Switzerland, in 1863, followed by an international convention at
the same place the next year. According
to the terms of this treaty, to which the
nations who had sent delegates subsequently subscribed, all hospitals and hospital officials and certain volunteer organizations engaged in attending the sick
and wounded in war are regarded and
treated as neutrals. To distinguish the
members of these volunteer organizations, an insignia or badge was adopted,
a red Greek cross on a white ground.
Hence the name of the international organizations which grew.out of this movement—the Red Cross societies.
It was largely through the efforts of
Clara Barton, the noble woman whose
heroic and unselfish services to the sick
and wounded during the Civil War had
given her even more than national fame,
that the American branch of the Red
Cross was first incorporated under the
laws of the District of Columbia in 1881
and later became a national institution.
In 1882 the United States Government,
by an act of Congress, officially joined
the other nations in adherence to the
Geneva convention, and upon the organization of the national society Miss Barton, at the instance of President Garfield,
was made its first president. The organization was reincorporated in 1893, its
purpose being declared to be the relief
of suffering due to war, pestilence, famine, flood, fires, and other calamities of
sufficient magnitude to be deemed national in extent, and Miss Barton remained president until 1904.
To enumerate in detail the activities of
the American Red Cross during these
early years of its existence would require the writing of a book. Among the
great disasters that gave the new organization opportunities to demonstrate its
usefulness in the alleviation of human
suffering and misfortune were the forest
fires in Michigan in 1882; the Ohio and
Mississippi River floods in 1883, followed by the still more devastating floods
in the same regions during the next year ;
the famine in large portions of the State
of Texas in 1886, following a two-year
period of drought; a cyclone which laid
in ruins the thriving city of Mount Vernon, Ill., in 1888; the terrible yellow
fever epidemic which ravaged the State
of Florida and several other Southern
States during the same year ; the
Johnstown, Pa., flood in 1889, which
wiped out of existence an entire city ; the
Russian famine in 1891, following the
crop failures in central Russia during the
two preceding years ; the hurricane and
tidal wave which swept the coast of
South Carolina in August, 1893, leaving
over 30,000 negroes of the Port Royal
Islands destitute of homes, clothing, and
food, some 5,000 having been drowned
by the sea ; the Armenian massacres by
the Turks during the year 1895, resulting in the utter devastation of the country and the death of many thousands
from starvation and disease, in addition
to those killed by the atrocities of the
Kurds and other Turkish troops ; the
Cuban revolution in 1896 ; and, finally,
the horrible catastrophe at Galveston,
Texas, in 1900, when a tidal wave
engulfed the city, drowning thousands
and rendering destitute and helpless
many thousands more. The relief measures of the Red Cross during these disasters proved the value of systematic organization. Shelter for the homeless,
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clothing for the naked, food for the
starving, medicine and nursing for the
sick and wounded, in short, every form
of relief that human kindness and pity
could devise was given to the unfortunate sufferers. Money, food, clothing,
supplies of every kind were donated by
charitable organizations, by governmental
and official agencies, and by private citizens, and by means of the organization
of the Red Cross distributed as wisely
and judiciously as possible under the circumstances of each case as it arose.
The period of probation of the American Red Cross had passed. Its value
as an agency for the amelioration of
suffering, its successful work of. mercy
during this experimental stage of its existence had fully demonstrated. In order to meet the constantly growing demands, more thorough organization and
a still greater expansion was necessary.
Recognizing this fact, the United States
Congress, by an act approved January 5,
1905, incorporated the American Na, tional Red Cross and placed it under
Government •supervision, declaring its
purposes, in addition to its duties in time
of war to be : "To continue and carry on
a system of national and international
relief in time of peace and 'apply the same
in mitigating the sufferings caused by
pestilence, famine, fire, floods and other
great national calamities, and to devise
and carry on measures for preventing the
same."
Miss Barton had resigned the office of
president in 1904, and after the new act
of incorporation a complete reorganization followed. The official organization
as it now obtains may be briefly outlined
as follows :
Its officers are a president, vice-president, national director, secretary, counselor, and treasurer. The act of incorporation provides that "The governing
body of the said American Red Cross
shall consist, in the first instance, of a
central committee numbering eighteen
persons." The law also provides that the
chairman and five members of the central
339
committee shall be appointed annually
by the President of the United States,
the five members appointed by the President to represent the Departments of
State, War, Navy, Treasury, and Justice.
Six members are elected by the board of
incorporators and six by the delegates to
the annual meeting.
The central committee is empowered
by law to elect from its own members an
executive committee of seven, to which is
given all power of the central committee
when the latter is not in
i session.
The by-laws provide for three relief
boards—namely, the war relief board, the
national relief board, and the international relief board. To each of these
boards have been assigned special duties
in connection with its particular department of relief operations.
The first-aid department and the nursing service are under the direction of two
committees appointed by the war relief
board. The first-aid committee is engaged in promoting first-aid instruction
among the employees of mining companies, railroads, industrial establishments, and the public at large ; the committee on nursing service is engaged in
the organization of a large corps of the
best trained nurses of the country for
service under the Red Cross in time of
war or disaster.
The organization, being under the supervision of the United States Government, is required by law to make an annual report of its proceedings and to
render an accounting of its receipts and
disbursements to the .Secretary of War.
These reports are transmitted to Congress and subsequently published as public documents.
As a means of promoting the efficiency
of the American Red Cross and of having it prepared for emergencies, an endowment fund has been created. This
endowment fund provides an income
which defrays in part the expenses of a
continuous educational campaign in first
aid and nursing work ; keeps up a reserve organization of high-grade trained
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nurses ; helps meet numerous minor relief
appeals, and makes it possible for the national director and his assistants to keep
the organization for relief work ready for
instantaneous action.
Some idea of the magnitude of the operations of the American Red Cross from
its reincorporation in 1905 to June, 1915,
may be had when it is stated that during
this 10-year period it conducted over 75
relief operations following earthquakes,
volcanic eruptions, fires, floods, famines,
mine explosions, and wars in various
parts of the world, and that the total
amount received and expended, including donated supplies, was not less than
$13,500,000.
Of the various service departments of
the organization which are active in time
of peace, perhaps none is of greater utility than the first-aid department. In order to bring a knowledge of accident prevention and of first "aid within the reach
of industrial workers and other classes
of people throughout the country, the
first-aid department of the American Red
Cross was established in January, 1910.
It is under the direction of an officer of
the Medical Corps of the United States
Army, and has a staff of physicians who
are available for detail as instructors in
mines, lumber camps, railroads, telephone
and electric works, and other spheres of
labor peculiaily subject to serious accidents. The scope of this department was
recently increased by the organization of
the American Red Cross life-saving
corps, whose activities are employed in
minimizing the dangers from drowning,
teaching others the best methods of saving drowning persons, and the utilization
of preventive measures against accidents
at sea or on other bodies of water.
The first-aid department maintains two
instruction cars on the railroads of the
United States, one in the territory east
of the Mississippi River and the other in
the section west of it, and instruction is
given to railroad employees by the physicians in charge of each car. The annual
death rate due to accidents on railroads,
in mines, and other industries is very
great, and it is the hope of the department to materially reduce the number of
preventable accidents and to minimize the
ill effects following accidents by instruction thus given. Incidentally, individuals
who have been instructed by this department are expected to assist the Red Cross
in time of war, and under its direction,
physicians, surgeons, hospital attendants,
etc., will be assembled into Red Cross
columns and otner organizations for use
in the field of operations.
Another important feature is the Red
Cross nursing service. During the last
few years there has developed in the
United States the largest organiiation of
trained nurses in the world, and the
American Red Cross, quick to realize the
advantages of cooperation with this representative body of women, brought
about the affiliation of the American
Nurses' Association with its own organization, and a national committee on Red
Cross nursing service was appointed by
the war relief board in 1909. This service is now composed of a national committee, 36 State committees, and 96 local
committees. About 600 nurses are serving without pay on these committees, and
through their efforts 6,000 nurses have
been enrolled for service under the Red
Cross.
Through the nursing the Red Cross
has undertaken another great work.
This consists in carrying into the homes
of the people a better knowledge of the
underlying principles of health, the prevention and care of illness through the
establishment of a town and country
nursing service, by means of which
classes of instruction are being organized
for women in elementary hygiene and
home care of the sick throughout the remote and sparsely settled sections of the
country.
Tourists in the Canadian Rockies.
Capitalizing Scenery
By NATHAN A. BOWERS
ULES MARTIN, a figure prominent in the development of British
Columbia since the days of the
Hudson Bay Company factors, had just
returned from his first visit to Europe.
On his return he was eagerly questioned
as to how he compared the famous Alps
with the Canadian Rockies. His reply
was a most indifferent negation. He
hadn't seen any mountains over there.
"But, surely, you were at Martigny
and Tasch — and you saw not those
mountains — ah ! those most wonderful
mountains ?"
"Oh, yes," he said, "now that you
speak of it, there was some rising
ground thereabout, but all of it could be
put in one of our valleys. Why, man,
there just can't be nothing that could
hold a candle to the Selkirks and the
Rockies."
Old Jules was so glad to be home.
again that he could not be quite reasonable in making such comparisons. But
j
in his view, absurdity though it was,
there lay a certain note of truth that is
destined, in time, to be native-born as
sentiment in the heart of every true
American. Other countries have known
their snowy heights longer than we have
known ours and they have surpassed us
in the appreciation of the mountains.
Indeed, their loyalty has attained worldwide fame. But we have, in our own
right, mountain ranges that inspire a
love and loyalty second to none on earth
and the spirit here and in Canada should
be—will be—such that we shall not take
second place in the appreCiation of our
"woods and templed hills." This will
come to be true of our nation as a people because we are awakening to the
Possibilities that have heretofore remained unknown and undeveloped.
The evidence in federal policy is the
opening up and exploiting of national
parks ; with individuals it is the rate at
which love of the outdoors and action
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afield are taking precedence over passive
pleasures and pastimes indoors. Always there has been more of the outdoor spirit in the West, but with the
progress of development America is becoming more closely knit. There is
more of the West in the East and more
of the East in the West than ever before.
The National Aspect
Our national parks, having always
been directly under the jurisdiction of
Congress, have long been looked upon
as a liability and treated almost as an
evil incidental to national affairs. Such
appropriations as have been allotted to
them were spent without explanation of
the return on the investment and there
was a popular feeling that it was money
squandered. The parks were inaccessible ; there were no accommodations or
transportation facilities and naturally
enough their attractions were unknown.
The appropriations for parks were too
often in proportion to the influence of
those who represented the district—or
rather, of those who represented the
voting power of the district.
Then a keen-minded economist, just
before the advent of the world-war,
pointed out that Swiss scenery had been
so advertised that it attracted tourist
trade amounting to $250,000,000 annnually. About the same time the general passenger agent of one of our large
railway systems estimated that the sum
of $500,000,000 was annually spent
abroad by American tourists.
There were a few Americans who
knew that our scenery was not inferior
to that found in Europe. They knew
that with proper development and advertisement the natural attractions of our
parks could be made to divert much of
this overseas tourist tide into our western states. So the slogan, "See America
First" went forth and earnest nature
lovers urged a sane policy of handling
the national park affairs.
This movement met with prompt response. The Secretary of the Interior
appointed a General Superintendent of
National Parks and told him to "do
things." This man took hold in earnest.
He estimated that within a very few
years an annual total of at least $50,000,000 could be saved to this country
if the parks were properly opened up
and adequately advertised. It was
pointed out that the expenditures for
such development would be good business ventures because the funds would
be used chiefly for substantial improvements, such as roads, bridges, trails
and chalets. Also concessions could be
granted which would, under government supervision, be at least self-supporting. So the policy was accepted as
good, and the national parks suddenly
ceased to be liabilities and became assets.
Under the new policy, roads and
trails are, even during these times, being built that will make the points of
interest accessible, and an entirely new
plan of• operating concessions within
the parks is being inaugurated. Heretofore a hotel keeper, for example, could
get only a short term lease and on this
basis of course he could not, afford to
spend much on improvements. Now
lessees are to be given long term contracts and will be required to construct
only such chalets and hotels as shall be
designated in accordance with the general plans of the Superintendent of
National Parks. These permits are to
be issued for a twenty-year term at the
end of which time the chalets will become the property of the government.
Meantime the concessionaires are to
pay the government fifty per cent of
their net revenues. The books are to
be at all times open to government in •
spectors to insure fair play.
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An important feature of this scheme
is that the lessee becomes virtually a
co-partner with the government. When
financial or operating difficulties arise it
will be mutually desirable for lessee
and government agent to study the
matter together and co-operate in finding some solution. This plan eliminates
at the outset the source of trouble with
lessee which is now most common, and
at the same time it places at the service of each, through the government
agents, the benefits of experience at
every other concession in the park system. This will not only make for economy and profit, but will insure the visitor the very best service feasible and
an opportunity to see more of the park
than would be possible with a less efficient arrangement.
The Viewpoint of the Individual
I am an enthusiastic lover of God's
great outdoors myself, and what I have
to say, I say more to those who have
also been thrilled (or nearly thrilled)
by the beauty and greatness of Nature.
As for the individual each is "a law
unto himself" for rarely are two personalities in perfect agreement on temperamental matters. However, even in
cur interpretation of Nature's message
there are some fundamentals which
must be common ground.
But to get directly at the heart of
the matter, do we fully improve our opportunities ; do we make the most of
our association with the snow peaks and
the forest silences ? Are we not apt to
accept the healthy exercise and the
sport of outdoor life as representing
practically all the value of our trips,
regarding as rare occasions, or "soul
feasts" those times when we really
sense a message or even a meaning in
Nature's revelations ?
In the rut and habit of daily routine most • men lose their perspective ;
343
because of too close scrutiny we fail
to grasp the general scheme of the picture. To be truly broad-minded we
must get out of ourselves, as it were,
and analyze conditions from an impersonal viewpoint. The minds bf great
men are said to be able to do this frequently, but most of us need some help
in getting a new angle of things. Ofttimes this comes to us. For example,
we renew acquaintance with an old
friend, find him full of ambition and
fairly bubbling over with enthusiasm,
and we say the meeting with him was
"refreshing." In reality it was that he
brought us a new viewpoint, and the
reaction upon our minds was a stimulation.
In defining "inspiration" Webster
speaks of a "stimulating influence upon
the intellect" and he associates this
with "high artistic achievement." If our
minds are capable of receiving beneficial influence of this sort let us not
leave the matter wholly to chance occurrences. Rather let us go over it
most thoughtfully and in seeking our
inspiration aim at the highest sources.
Truly in this sense we may hitch our
wagon to a star. We find a certain
mental stimulus in contact with humankind, but this is not the highest. Occasionally, in the quiet contemplation of
some phenomenon of Nature, we sense
the broadening uplift of a glimpse of
the divine. This is at once our invitation and our opportunity. We should
be quick to realize that it is well worth
while for us to study and cultivate, each
according to his tendency and his capacity, the conditions that make for
such glimpses. We need clearer vision
—a view often enough so that it becomes an influence on character.
Our study and progress along this
line is dependent altogether upon our
method of thought. It is something
wholly within ourselves. It is not easy
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to discuss it freely, and in fact so far
as interchange of experience is concerned there is not a great deal to be
gained thereby. Companionship is an
essential to our greatest development
because • of the opportunities it affords
—and it gives us much pleasure and
comfort beside—but we cannot leave
even to those nearest to us any share
of the thinking that determines individuality. We do our really deep thinking
alone. Alone we win and lose our
greatest struggles. One of the foremost mentalists of the age has even
written, "I am not alone if I read or
if I write." At these times, he reasons,
he is listeneing to or speaking to his
friends. He goes on to say "but if
one would be alone, let him look at the
stars." It is out in the silent places
that one may hear the most and there
he may come to know himself best.
Americanizing
the
Japanese
in
Hawaii
By CONSUL-GENERAL MOROI
Consul General Y. Moroi
I
N the work of an official representative of Japan in such a new and important field as Hawaii, I find that
my attention is drawn to many things of
importance.
Among these objects one that appeals
to my thought and interest in the highest
degree is the presence of a growing
number of young men and women, born
of Japanese parentage in these Islands.
For these young people, citizens of the
United States by birth, knowing as they
do, things Japanese through their parents, and educated as they are in American life and thought, are to act as mediators between this country and Japan. I
firmly believe that many who belong to
this class of Japanese young people, together with those who came here from
Japan in their childhood, can be instrumental in bringing about a right understanding and a lasting friendship between
these two great powers on the Pacific.
ISLANDS LINK TWO NATIONS
Geographically the Hawaiian Islands
connect America and Japan in a Chain of
close proximity. Just in the same way
you are to bind them into a chain of mutual understanding. In thus viewing the
position of Hawaii and of you young
men in the Islands, I cannot help but
think that you have a grave responsibility. This responsibility, I wish you to
know, does not differ at all from that
of the official representatives of Japan
and other Japanese leaders in Hawaii.
The young men who have this sort of
responsibility need most of all to be in
full possession of a harmoniously developed body, mind and spirit; and especially, with regard to the mental and spiritual aspects of your life, you should have
the best and highest possible development. For from what I hear and learn
by personal observation I am fully aware
that something is still lacking in your
young people, and therefore it behooves.
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you to make strenuous efforts to become
what you ought to be. This opinion of
the Hawaiian-born Japanese young people is held by those who have been
brought up under the influences of Confucianism, Buddhism, and the Bushido.
SON OF A FARMER.
To speak of my personal matters, I am
the son of a farmer, born in a country
village in the prefecture of Saitama. My
farming ancestors could be traced back
four hundred years. Though born thud
as a farmer's son, the education and culture I obtained in my family and in
schools consist largely of the principles
of Confucianism, Buddhism, and the
Bushido. These systems of religion and
morality, as you know, make the spirit of
self-sacrifice and devotion the foundation
of life. The practical application of this
fundamental spirit relates to one's duty to
himself, his family, country and sovereign.
"The present development of Japan
results from an application of the fundamental principles of self-sacrifice and devotion: I did not realize this fact until
I went, in 1897, to Shanghai, China, as
vice consul. There I learned that in
China, the home of Confucianism, its
fundamental teachings were not applied
to her national life as in Japan. China
failed to do this, because it paid undue attention to non-essential teachings of her
great sages.
INFLUENCE OF CHRISTIANITY.
As regards Christianity, I did not have
the opportunity even to see a copy of the
Bible. In 19oo, however, I went to London to serve in the office of the consulgeneral. From this date on I came to be
more and more acquainted with the Bible
and Christianity. Later I was transferred to Belgium and lived on the European continent for seven years. While
I was in Europe I had a good opportunity
to witness the effects of the Christian re-
ligion upon European civilization. I discovered that, as Japan has made her marvelous progress in recent decades under
the dominant influence of her religious
and moral systems, so the European nations have reached their civilization under
the direct influence of Christianity.
I truly believe that the essence of Confucianism, Buddhism and the Bushido
and of Christianity are identical; their
differences are to be found in their external rites and ceremonies. These systems of religion and morality hold alike
the cultivation of the self to be first, and
through the cultivated selves the family
and nation are to be constructed. They,
moreover, make the self-sacrificing and
loya lspirit first and the bodily development secondary. Accordingly, the nations under their influence have reached
a high stage in civilization.
But when I turn to Hawaii and compare its conditions with those of the
European and American nations, I do not
find the same degree of progress here as
in those countries, perhaps due to the
slow progress • in her union with the
United States, or to a certain degree of isolation from the continental civilization. Be it as it may, the
social conditions of Hawaii in general,
and especially of the Japanese people, are
below those of the European and American nations. Therefore you, as young
men and women, are called upon to make
special efforts to improve the conditions
in the Islands. If you neglect to do this,
you will soon find yourselves degraded
and corrupt in thought and life, and be
on the same level with uncivilized peoples.
Further, if no special efforts are made
for progress, those born of Japanese parentage will possess the fruits of the Christian civilization of the West.
The duty toward the United States.
Many of you born of Japanese parentage in these Islands, live peaceably
under the protection of the American
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347
government, enjoy your life in the midst better understanding ' between America
of a sympathetic and hospitable Ameri- and Japan.
can community, and are receiving AmeriDUTY TOWARDS AMERICANS
can education. Because of these beneThere have been and are many Amerfits you receive, you are urged to strive
foi- your highest development and to be- ican friends who are doing much for the
come good loyal American citizens - Japanese people in Hawaii, and particuand thus you will prove yourselves to be larly at this time they are making great
good children of the country which has sacrifies to bring up the Hawaiian-born
Japanese young men to be good Ameradopted you.
The duty toward Japan. By virtue of ican citizens ; so they are bestowing upon
your birth here you are citizens of the you many moral as well as material benUnited States. Yet you should remem- efits. Personally I wish to express my
ber that you are born of Japanese par- most sincere thanks to these men.
entage, and in this way you are related Though I may thank them ever so much
to Japan. I believe that the respect , tow- for their good services, yet if you do not
ard the country of one's parents and the strive to become what they earnestly deloyalty toward the nation which has sire, my appreciation will be in vain.
adopted him do not conflict with each Therefore, I greatly hope that you • will
other. So you are in a favored situa- show your gratitude to these good men
tion to contribute your share toward a by becoming noble American citizens."
Japanese in a Pan-Pacific pageant, Hawaii.
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The old way of hauling sugar cane to the mill.
Possibilities of the Philippines
By FRANK C. ATHERTON
—1
li
ROM early times large numbers of
Chinese migrated to the Philippines for the purpose of trade.
Many settled down and became business
men in the larger cities. The Spaniards
took advantage of the Chinese on many
occasions and there were four great
massacres among them instigated by the
Spaniards, largely to take possession of
the wealth which the Chinese had accumulated. Both these races of people
intermarried with the natives, so that the
majority of the better class of Filipinos
now are not of pure stock, but are what
are called "Spanish Mestizos" or "Chino
Mestizos."
As we traveled about the Islands we
were entertained quite extensively by the
better class of Filipinos, often having
luncheon and dinner in their own homes
and at these gatherings they invited in
usually from ten to twenty-five of the
planters of the district. In this way we
met quite a large number of the more
educated and well-to-do classes, and we
were much impressed with their culture
and refinement and cordial hospitality.
Large numbers of these people spoke
English well and had most comfortable
homes. They are very sensitive and
quickly discern whether one is genuinely
friendly to them or is merely assuming
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that attitude. They respond to kindly
and friendly advances, but resent any
spirit of superiority or discourtesy.
The native Filipino lives almost entirely in houses constructed of bambco
These are built on poles, there usually
being left from six to ten feet of space
under the houses, and one mounts to the
first floor by a ladder, which is often
drawn up at night. These houses are
thatched with the nipa palm and the sides
and partitions constructed of woven
bamboo. The houses of the poorer class
seldom have more than two or three
rooms and the people. sleep on the bamboo floors on thick mats or on cots of
stretched fibers. On account of the warm,
even climate, they do not need covering
to any extent. The chickens, pigs or
other animals which are owned by these
people often spend the nights in the
large space under the house, particularly
during the rainy season.
The women are fairly industrious and
in many respcts seem superior to the
men intellectually, particularly on business matters. In many of the public
markets in the small towns the women
conduct the small sales stands. We saw
large numbers of them at work harvesting the rice, as well as cleaning and
winnowing it, and doing various forms of
light manual labor. Almost every home
has its loom where the women weave
much of their finer qualities of clothing.
They also make beautiful hats, equal to
panamas.
They nearly always carry ordinary
bundles or produce on their heads, sometimes in good-sized baskets. They are
as much, if not more, addicted to smoking than the men, and it is quite common and amusing to see several women
walking along the road balancing large
bundles on their heads and puffing at
good-sized cigars. They also smoke
pipes and cigarettes, and even boys and
girls from twelve to fifteen years of
age use tobacco.
There used to be a great deal of sickness among the people, due to the fact
that they usually secured their drinking
water from the pools in the fields or
from small streams which were very
muddy, but during the last few years
of the American occupation efforts have
been made throughout the well inhabited country districts to bore artesian
wells and to instruct the people in the
need of drinking only artesian or boiled
water. This has reduced epidemics of
cholera, dysentery and other diseases of
the digestive system.
We were much impressed by the system of fine, macadamized roads throughout the various districts which we visited.
This is largely the result of the work inaugurated under the administration of
Governor-General Forbes and carried on
by his successors. Numbers of the better class have autos and we were driven
about almost entirely in machines which
were placed at our disposal.
The splendid system of roads has been a
great help in developing the country for
it furnishes a much improved method of
transportation, as in the early days shipments of all food products and supplies
had to be made by river or at much increased expense over extremely poor
roads on very primitive wagons, or in
many cases on the back of animals or individuals.
In addition to the fine road system
throughout most of the provinces there
are three very well-built railroads, the
largest railroad being on the Island of
Luzon and having two branches which
tap several provinces. There is also a
railroad across the Island of Panay and
another one about sixty miles in length
on the Island of Cebu. None of these
roads, however, has been a paying investment. They were built by American
engineers and American companies, but
the government of the Philippine Islands
guaranteed the interest on the bonds.
The principal products of the islands
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are sugar, copra, hemp, tobacco, sisal or
maguey, and cacao. Their exports last
year were in the neighborhood of one
hundred million dollars in value and
should continue to increase steadily. The
extreme high price of hemp has made
this industry very profitable. Copra is
also selling at a very high price. There
are several oil mills in the Islands, and
we learned that they were proving very
profitable investments. A grade of sisal
which is called maguey is being raised on
many of the Islands and is proving quite
remunerative to the small grower or
farmer.
Our stay in the Philippines was just
six weeks, during which time we visited
five of the islands, covering a good part
of three of them. After a week's stay in
Manila we chartered a special steamer
known as the Coast Guard Cutter Polillo,
which was about 15o feet long and had
a carrying capacity of about 20o tons
of freight.
We visited the Islands of Mindoro,
Panay, Negros and Cebu, and most of
our days were spent on the different islands, inspecting various sugar
district but returned each night to the
steamer. We were entertained at lunch
and sometimes at dinner by the planters
in the different districts.
To conform to the customs of the
country we usually called on the governor of a province or the office of the
presidente or mayor of a town to pay
our respects. In many places as they
had been advised of our arrival we were
served with refreshments and found a
few of the important men of the district
gathered there to welcome us.
The Island of Negros and a large portion of the others that we visited are
quite different from the Hawaiian
Islands in the lay of the land. There
are hundreds of thousands of acres of
almost level land, very fertile and well
supplied with rivers. Our trip being
made near the close of the rainy season
351
we found large areas still having the
appearance of being swampy, as on account of the level nature of the land the
drainage was quite poor, but yet on
many of these areas splendid crops are
produced. If good drainage systems
were installed there is no doubt but that
the productivity of the soil would be
much increased.
On the Mindoro Plantation they have
put in drainage ditches which are used
to drain the land during the rainy season, but these are turned into irrigation
ditches during the dry season, being
connected up with some large rivers.
The method of crossing rivers is quite
interesting. In many places we crossed
by means of bamboo rafts which' were
sufficient to transport one and oftentimes two autos and a dozen or fifteen
people. We crossed many rivers from
three to five hundred feet wide in this
manner, the men on the rafts pulling
them across by means of a long cable
attached to both banks and run through
a slot on the raft. This cable was made
of vines tied together and seemed very
strong and tough. In some places they
also used poles to push the raft across,
as the current seemed very slow.
The cane throughout the islands is
very small in size, being much like our
(Hawaiian) Demarara 1135. In fact
they have to grow a cane that is small
in circumference for if they grew such
cane as we do in Hawaii they would certainly break• their mills, which consist
almost entirely of very small "threerollers." Many are run by small steam
engines, and others by water power,
while we saw a few that consist of merely two iron or stone rollers run by
carabao. In all these small native mills
the extraction probably does not average over 5o%. The bagasse after going through the rollers is so moist that
it is carried out by hand and spread on
the ground to dry in the sun for two or
three days before it can be used for fuel
352
THE MID-PACIFIC
for the boiling of the juice. There are
only a few hand-mills in the islands, but
hundreds of these small native mills
turning out only from 200 to 500 tons
of sugar a year. This sugar is boiled in
open pans and is known as Muscavado
Sugar. The methods of handling juices
are very crude, the juice being ladled
from one large open pan to another, and
finally from the last pan where it has
been boiled down to a thick mass, it is
ladled out into troughs made of wood
where it is kept agitated either by hoes
or shovels until it has cooled and sugared
off. It is then a sticky, brown mass and
polarizes from 82 to 85 degrees.
The methods of cultivation are elementary. A very simple wooden plow
drawn by the carabao is used extensively,
though of late years small iron plows
have been introduced to quite an extent.
From this statement it can be readily
understood that the plowing is very shallow, but in spite of this fact good crops
are produced, due to the great fertility
of the soil. Practically no form of
fertilizer is used. Little cultivation is carried on after a crop is well started. With
better preparation of the soil and good
cultivation much larger crops could be
easily produced. The average production of sugar is only a little over a ton
per acre. Of course this low yield is
partly due to the fact that the cane is
ground when only a year old, and also
to the low extraction already referred
to.
The carabao and vaca are used almost
entirely for plowing and drawing of
wagons, and are about the only class
of animals that can really work to advantage in swampy lands. There are
over a million carabao in the islands and
they are indespensible in all forms of
agricultural work.
The sugar from these small island
ports is shipped to the larger centers
almost entirely by small schooners or
lorchas as they are called, these schoon-
ers have a capacity of from 3o to 50
tons. They sail up many of the rivers
in high tide, or sometimes are beached,
then loaded and floated, off by another
incoming tide.
Iloilo has storage facilities for some
75,000 tons of sugar, and at the time
we were there it was estimated that there
were 40,000 tons of the last year's crop
still in the godowns or warehouses awaiting shipment. This large accumulation
was owing to the lack of ships due to
the war.
The success of the San Carlos Milling
Company on the east coast of Negros
and the profit which has been made by
the planters there has aroused the desire among others for modern mills to
be established in their districts. They
have come to see that their extraction ;s
so low and the quality of their sugar so
poor that it would well pay them to dispose of their cane to a milling company
receiving in return one-half of the sugar
of 96 degres polarization manufactured
from cane. In this way they would secure fully as much sugar as their mills
turn out now at a saving of all milling
expense to them, and having a 96 degree sugar to market, which is worth
from 4 to i cent a pound more than
the present grade of sugar which they
manufacture.
In most places we found the planters
ready and willing to enter into contracts
on what is known as • the 50-5o basis,
namely, the planter grow the cane and
deliver it on cars, the company taking
it to the mill and manufacturing it and
delivering one-half of the product to the
planter and keeping the other half as its
payment.
We visited the main sugar districts
on the Island of Negros and also went
through a very large cocoanut producing province between the ports of Bais
and Dumaguete on the southeast side
of this island. We found in this district two companies run by Americans
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and with American capital. They had
large areas planted in cocoanuts and one
of the gentlemen whom we met estimated that in their district the production of copra amounted to about 20,000
tons a year. We were much interested
in this business for it certainly offers very
profitable returns not only in growing
cocoanuts and producing copra, but also
in extracting the oil from copra.
We visited the plant of the Visayan
Refining Company on the Island of Mactan., which is producing about 8o tons
of cocoanut oil per day. This company
was established largely through the
efforts of Dean C. Worcester, who was
a member, for many years, of the Philippine Commission and has made a careful study of conditions in the islands,
particularly of the native wild tribes, and
has written .nany interesting articles
and a large volume on the Philippines.
From Negros we went to Cebu and
visited a large section of this island.
Cebu is a long, narrow island, comprising an area of about 1762 square miles.
353
It is estimated that it has a population
of 800,000 and in no place did we find
such intensive cultivation as on this island. The mountain range running
through the center of the island is only
two or three thousand feet in height and
not very precipitous. It also has but
little wooded area. We took one trip
by auto up through this mountain range
and were interested to find a large portiOn of it very highly cultivated. The
people raise a great deal of corn and
this provides their main article of food.
We found on this island that instead
of the lands 13eing in large areas owned
by a group of people and farmed out on
shares or by day labor, as on the Island
of Negros, that the people owned to a
large extent their little homesteads.
There must be thousands of small homes
comprising from two to five acres each.
Often there would be an area in cocoanuts, an area in corn and the rest of
the area devoted to sisal or vegetables,
and on the low-lands, rice.
Crossing a river On a bamboo raft.
354
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At Hobart, Tasmania provides a palace for the Governor-General of
the Island State. He is sent out from the island which is the
seat of the British race and is a member of the nobility. He is
the connecting link between Great Britain and the State of
Tasmania.
■
A river trip in Tasmania.
Australia's Island State
By FRANK G. CARPENTER.
(This article was written some years ago by Frank G. Carpenter, the newspaper correspondent, and is reproduced to illustrate the value of having a trained
travel writer visit Pacific lands to place before world readers the things they desire to know concerning the places described. The Pan-Pacific Union has long
urged the sending of trained writers to visit Pacific lands.)
I
WRITE THIS in the lowermost city feeding out doors, and the sun is as warm
of the lowermost state of the new as Ohio in May.
Australian federation, and in one of
As I look about me I cannot realize
the lowermost towns of the globe. Hothat
this is Tasmania, the country I studbart is 2,50o miles south of the equator,
ied
about
years ago as Van Dieman's
on the edge of the southern sea, that
mighty sea which flows between the Pa- Land. I knew it was an island floating
cific and the antarctic. It is now late about somewhere between the south pole
and Australia. I had an idea that it was
in the fall, but the grass is as green as
bleak, bare and inhospitable and supposed
old Ireland in June, and, although Mount it about the jumping-off place of creation.
Wellington, back of the city, has a coat- I had read of its criminals sent out from
ing of snow, the sheep are everywhere England who were about as cruelly treat355
356
THE MID-PACIFIC
ed as are those of China today, and it
hardly seemed that the trip here would
be worth the time and expense.
I have changed my opinion. Tasmania
is the Switzerland of the southern Pacific, and it is really one of the most
healthful and beautiful lands of the globe.
It is a heart-shaped island, with its top
toward Australia, and its tail toward the
pole. It is all mountains, valleys and
glens, covering an area three times as
great as Massachusetts, almost as great
as Ireland, and about the size of West
Virginia. It is populated by 300,000 English-speaking people, and the tourist
agencies have turned it into a great health
resort. The whole country is spotted
with boarding houses and hotels, and
from December until May, which are the
summer months here, it is swarming with
tourists. You can go almost anywhere
by motor, coach, horseback or on rail,
and there is lots of company. There are
waterfalls and lakes, forests of fern trees,
brooks noted for fishing, hunting parks
and everything that the sportsman desires. There are guide books, following
which you can go on foot over the country and, indeed, the land is a little Norway or Switzerland away down here below the equator.
Hobart is the largest city and capital
of Tasmania, which is a part of the great
Australian Commonwealth. It lies on a
fine harbor in a nest of hills on the banks
of the River Derwent, backed by a mountain, the rocks of which look like the
pipes of an organ. The town is laid out
as a square, and its wide streets cross
one another at right angles ; but it runs
up hill and down and takes a jump here
and there out into the country.
I Went from one end of the capital to
the other one day on the street car line.
This is run by electricity, and the people
pride themselves on having established
the first electric railroad system in their
latitude. I wish I could show you the
cars. There is nothing like them in the
United, States.
They look as though they had been
pounded out by a crossroads blacksmith.
They are enormous double-deckers, their
sides plastered with advertisements. I
rode on the roof right under a great steel
bow, which, pressing against the electric
wire, takes the place of our trolley. The
electrical machine is under the bed of the
car in a box made for that purpose. I
kept time and found that the only speed
we made was going down hill. The motion was a succession of jerks, as though
the electricity was spitting out its force
in spasmodic fits.
Tasmania Newspapers.
Tasmania has its daily newspapers.
There are several published in Hobart
and also in Launceton, the chief town on
the north side of the island. Bulletins
with the headlines of the news are put
out daily in front of the offices and the
reporters come around and interview you
much as they do in America.
There are good book stores, a fair
number of business buildings and a lot
of government offices. Indeed, all these
southern cities run to government offices,
spending a great deal on such structures.
At Hobart they are of a fine yellow sandstone and are fairly well built. The most
of the residences are of brick and stone,
with gardens about them, and the stores
are not unlike those of a city of the same
size in the United States.
The names on the stores are queer
ones. I am told that many of them have
been adopted within the past few generations, and that the names of the oldest
inhabitants have been changed from those
under which the founders of the family
were sent out as penal convicts.
In Convict Days.
It was right near here that the chief
penal colony was. Its name was Port
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Arthur, and you can reach it by a short
boat ride down the river. Some of the
buildings in which the convicts were confined are still standing, and one can get
a guide there who will describe the terrible tortures they underwent. They were
so punished that many committed suicide.
They were flogged, tortured with dripping water and loaded with heavy chains.
They were kept in dark cells, were used
to pull the cars on the convict railway
and were subj ect to all sorts of inhuman
treatment. Today there are many good
families in Tasmania who are the descendants of these convicts. Some of
them will acknowledge it, but if you ask
them the crime for which their ancestors
were transported they will invariably reply that it was for stealing a loaf of
bread. Indeed, it would take a goodsized bakehouse running steadily to supply the many loaves which are said to
have been stolen by these early Tasmanians.
357
are taken to Australia and sold there
for breeding purposes, full-bred rams
bringing sometimes as much as $5,000
each. The greatest care is taken in the
breeding of sheep. The holdings are
smaller than in Australia or New Zealand, where single men have flocks of
hundreds of thousands, and the Tasmania
sheep breeders can therefore take better
care of their stock. Tasmania is an excellent turnip country, and in this part
of the world a good turnip country is a
good sheep country. There are fields
about Hobart which have produced as
much as sixteen tons of turnips to the
acre, and in northeastern Tasmania
twenty-five tons per acre have been
grown. At present in the neighborhood
of 5,00o acres are sown every year in
turnips, yielding more than 50,00o tons.
The bulk of this stuff goes to the sheep,
which speedily grind it up into mutton
and wool.
The World's Largest Tin Mine.
There is a great mining boom now on
in Tasmania. Up until 1872 the minerals
were not thought to amount to much,
but in that year tin mines were opened
on Mount Bischoff, in the northwestern
part of the island, and these have proved
to be the largest tin mines of the world.
They paid their first dividend in 1878,
and since then have been paying regularly, having distributed in dividends
more than $8,000,000. The total exports
of minerals now amount to $5,000,000
annually, and there are about 6,000 men
at work in the mines. Not only tin but
also gold, silver, copper, iron and coal
are taken out, as well as small amounts
of other metals.
One of the most wonderful mines is
the Mount Lyell gold mine, which was
discovered in 1881. This was thought
to be of iron mixed with gold. It was
Sheep at a Thousand Dollars Apiece.
first worked as a gold mine, but was
afterward
found to contain copper, gold
There are many sheep here which are
and
silver
and the ore was reduced after
worth a thousand dollars apiece. They
Raising Apples for England.
I should think our fruit farmers might
get points from Tasmania as to how to
work the European markets. This is
more than a month by sea from London,
but ship loads of apples are sent there
every year. They are packed up in boxes
and put in cold storage on the great
steamers, not to be taken out until they
reach London. The steamers are especially fitted up for the purpose, and it has
been found that they can successfully
carry the apples this distance. The apple
crop now amounts to almost a million
bushels a year, and it brings in several
hundred thousand dollars annually. In
the neighborhood of three hundred thousand cases were shipped last year, a great
part of them coming from the southern
section of the island.
358
THE MID-PACIFIC
modern processes of smelting copper.
The results were so great that the company was reorganized with a capital of
about $4,500,000, a railroad was built
from the mines to the smelting works
and within a short time the company had
five smelters treating r r,000 tons of ore
a month. This company paid its first
dividend in 1897 and by the middle of
the year following it had distributed to
its stockholders more than a million dollars. It now pays out about $1o,000 a
month in salaries and is making money
right along out of copper, silver and
gold.
The Klondike of Tasmania.
There is a government mining bureau
here at Hobart, from which I learn the
following concerning this new mining
region of western Tasmania, which may
be called the Klondike of the country.
So far much of the minerals have come
from the northeast, a great deal of tin
and gold having been taken from the
right ear of this heart-shaped island. In
the west but little mining was done in
early days, and the development there
has been comparatively recent. Within
the past decade towns have been springing up almost as fast as in our mineral
regions of the west, and new townships
are being applied for every few weeks.
Several railroads have been built, and
deposits of gold, tin and copper have
been found.
The City of Launceston.
1
6 T •
On the - ne
99
Li
in the
Galapagos
By S. A. MERICA
rr HERE is never twilight in the
Galapagos Islands—one day is
not a moment longer or shorter
than another, the year round ; even the
turtles of the Galapagos—the oldest and
largest in the world—might, without
hurrying at all, cross the Equator a
dozen times a day, for the "Line" passes
directly through the largest of the islands. One might actually sleep with his
head in the Northern Hemisphere, and
his feet in the Southern.
The Galapagos Islands constitute an
archipelago • of five larger and ten
smaller islands, exactly under the equator and lying 580 miles west of the
nearest point of the Ecuadorian mainland. The name is derived from galapagos, a tortoise, of the giant species,
the characteristic feature of the fauna.
The islands were discovered early in the
sixteenth century by Spaniards, who
gave them their present name. They
were then uninhabited. The English
names of the individual islands were
probably given by buccaneers, for whom
the group formed a convenient retreat.
The larger members of the group,
several of which attain an elevation of
from 2,000 to 2,500 feet, are Albemarle
or Isabela (100 miles long, 28 miles in
extreme breadth, with an area of 1,650
square miles and an extreme elevation of
5,000 feet), Narborough or Fernandini,
Indefatigable or Santa Cruz, Chatham
or San Cristobal, James or San Salvador, and Charles or Santa Maria. The
total land area is estimated at about
359
360
THE MID-PACIFIC
2,870 square miles. The extraordinary
number of craters, a few of which are
reported still to be active, gives evidence
that the archipelago is the result of volcanic action. The number of main craters may be about twenty-five, but there
are very many small eruptive cones on
the flanks of the old volcanoes. There
is a convict settlement on Chatham, with
some 300 inhabitans living in low
thatched or iron-roofed huts, under the
supervision of a police commissioner and
other officials of Ecuador, by which
country the group was annexed in 1832,
when General Villamil founded Floreana
on Charles Island, naming it in honor of
Juan Jose Flores, President of Ecuador.
A governor has been appointed since
1885, some importance being foreseen
for the islands in connection with the
cutting of the Panama Canal, as the
group lies on the route to Australia.
Charles Island, the most valuable of the
group, is cultivated by a small colony.
On many of the islands numerous tropical fruits are found growing wild, but
they are no doubt escapes from cultivation, just as the large herds of wild cattle,
horses, donkeys, pigs, goats and dogs—
the last large and fierce—which occur
abundantly on most of the islands have
escaped from domestication.
The shores of the larger islands are
fringed in some parts with a dense barrier of mangroves, backed by an often
impenetrable thicket of tropical undergrowth, which, as the ridges are ascended, give place to taller trees and deep
green bushes which are covered with
orchids and trailing moss. But generally the low grounds are parched and
rocky, presenting only a few thickets of
Peruvian cactus and stunted shrubs, and
a most uninviting shore. The contrast
between this low zone and the upper
zone or rich vegetation (about 800 feet)
is curiously marked. From July to November the clouds hang low on the
mountains and give moisture to the up-
per zone, while the climate of the lower
is dry. Rain in the lower zone is
scanty, and from May to January does
of occur. The porous soil absorbs the
moisture and water is scarce. Though
the islands are under the equator the
climate is not intensely hot, as it is tempered by cold currents from the Antarctic Sea, which having followed the
coast of Peru as far north as Cape
Blanco, sheer off to the northwest, towards and through the Galapagos. The
mean temperature of the lower zone is
71 degrees Fahrenheit, and that of the
upper from 66 degrees to 62 degrees.
Except on Charles Island, where settlement has existed longest, little or no
influence of the presence of men is evident in the group. The origin and development of these conditions in islands
so distinctly oceanic as the Galapagos
have given its chief importance to this
archipelago since it was visited by Darwin in the Beagle.
At the present time an elaborate law
bearing upon the colonization of the
Galapagos, garrisoning of the islands,
erection of a wireless station, etc., is
pending before the Ecuadorian Congress.
Public attention in Ecuador has undoubtedly been attracted to the "Archipelago of Colon," as this group is also
called, by the incident of the steamer
Witasboro. A company, known as
the Galapagos Development Company, had been formed with American
capital to undertake extensive agricultural development on Albemarle Island,
but when the steamer, loaded with all
necessary equipment for this purpose,
called at Guayaquil the cargo was embargoed by the Government, which contended foreign ownership of land in the
archipelago was prohibited by law and
was considered as a menace to Ecuadorian sovereignty.
Whatever the fate of the Galapagos
Islands, they may at some future date
THE MID-PACIFIC
loom large in the history of international politics and in the records of the
inevitable trans-Pacific commercial and
military struggles of the future. Today they lie low along the horizon, "a
cloud no bigger than a man's hand," but
they are a key to the Panama Gateway
on the South and West.
Writing to El Comercia, Quito, a
reader of that paper, discussing the future of the Galapagos Islands, urges
that as mining lands or agricultural
lands for colonization, the value of the
Galapagos must always remain more or
less negligible ; their importance, he contends, rests upon the strategic character
of their geographical situation, and
forthwith proceeds to enlarge upon the
possibility of converting the archipelago
into a great coaling station. Bituminous coal, he says, exists in huge deposits
in Ecuador in the eastern provinces.
Therefore, why not convert the Galapagos into a sort of counter over which
Ecuador may sell her coal to the ships
of the world, trafficking from the four
corners of the Pacific through the Panama Canal. The only factor which this
correspondent has overlooked is that the
United States can lay down coal in the
huge modern bunkers at the Canal terminals at a price with which Ecuador
could scarcely hope to compete within
half a century. As a coaling and naval
station for some great maritime power
the matter of course takes on an entirely
different aspect.
President Baquerizo Moreno, of Ecuador, in the course of the recent Annual
Message to the Congress at Quito, stated
that it was urgently necessary that permanent communication be established
between the Galapagos Islands and the
mainland of the Republic. Arrangements have been made to send the small
auxiliary steamer Patria to the islands
on periodical visits, the vessel making the greater part of the run under
sail. This itinerary would also permit
361
the Patria to be utilized as a training
ship. It will be 'remembered that in
July last the President made an extended
trip to the Galapagos on the Patria.
By means of this communication, the
establishment of colonies on the islands
might be facilitated. They lie outside
of the ordinary steamer routes along the
West Coast, 600 miles from the mainland.
The President stated that on his visit
to the Galapagos he had left a topographical commission and 25 soldiers on
Isabela (Albemarle) Island.
He strongly opposed the agitation in
favor of the abandonment of the archipelago and it was the duty of Ecuador,
he said, to develop the natural resources
of this territory lying far out in the Pacific. There was no fear regarding the
future of the islands, for Ecuadorian
sovereignty there was disputed by none.
In an account of the recent visit of
President Baquerizo Moreno to the Galapagos, one of the members of the party
state4 that on arriving at Chatham (San
Cristobal) Island, they visited the estate owned by the heirs of Don Manuel
J. Cobos (who was assassinated some
Years ago). Don Manuel seems to have
been a gentleman of considerable energy, for he erected a sugar mill on his
estate, laid down a Decauville railway,
built a mole and erected large warehouses. A certain amount of sugar is
shipped from this place to the mainland. At this point a residence has also
been erected for the Territorial Governor of the islands, Colonel Enrique
Barriga.
The writer of this narrative tells of a
curious encounter on the beach at Chatham with an Englishman by the name
of Thomas Levick, who arrived at the
archipelago in 1868 /19 years ago. Questioned as to the manner in which he
came to the islands and the reason for
his long stay there, Levick said that he
left England as boy more than fifty
362
THE MID-PACIFIC
years ago with his father who was a seafaring man. They came to Lima and
the father had evidently established himself in some business ashore. Then a
terrible plague swept over the city, according to Levick's account, and the
dead were collected from the streets in
carts by the police. Terrorized they
fled from Lima in a small vessel, which
was lost at sea, the boy eventually landing at Chatham Island a survivor of the
wreck. There he determined to make
his home and had taken part in various
attempts at colonization of the islands
until finally he entered the service of
Don Manuel Cobos, serving as captain
of the small schooner used by the latter
for trips between the Galapagos and the
mainland. Levick had taken part in
more than one bloody tragedy that has
been enacted on these remote islands in
the last half century. At the time of
the assassination of Don Manuel Cobos,
Levick was on his way to Guayaquil and
assured his interlocutor that had he been
present he would either have been killed
himself or would have killed the assassins. He evidently cherished a particular affection for Don Manuel and after
the latter's death he severed his connection with the sugar estate, built himself
a miserable but on the beach, close to
the port cemetery, and there supported
his family as best he could, isolated not
only from the continent but also from
the town of Chatham.
The plague in Lima to which Levick
refers is undoubtedly the terrible epidemic of yellow fever which swept over
this city in the late sixties.
A. typical Hawaiian church.
Kauai and the Missionaries
By J. M. LYDGATE.
BOUT 1805, Kaumu-alii, the last
king of Kauai, sent his son,
George — a lad of nine years to America to be educated, entrusting him to one of the sea captains
who frequently visited the island. The
necessary funds for the proper care and
education of the young prince were
placed in the hands of the captain, and
upon their arrival in New England, the
lad was placed in a good school.
Unfortunately, the captain died shortly afterwards, and the funds provided by
Kaumualii were swallowed up in the
wreck of his estate. The boy, George,
thrown on his own resources and the
charity of chance friends, wandered from
A
place to place, and finally enlisted in the
American Navy.
On his discharge at the close of the
War of 1812, he was discovered at the
navy yard at Charlestown, Mass., identified as the son of Kaumu-alii, and removed to Cornwall for education in company with other Hawaiian youths.
On the embarkation of the first missionary party for the Hawaiian Islands,
he accompanied them as an independent
passenger, and when the missionaries arrived at the Islands it was a first duty,
as well as a promising privilege, to restore George to his royal father.
With as little delay as possible, Messrs.
Whitney and Ruggles of the missionary
363
364
THE MID-PACIFIC
party, accompanied by George Kaumualii, or George Hume-hume, as he was
more familiarly known, set sail for
Kauai with Captain Blanchard. Arriving at Waimea, they were received by
Kaumu-alii with every evidence of satisfaction and gratitude, sentiments which
found expression in a most cordial reception of the missionaries and a bountiful
largess of supplies for the vessel, consisting of fifty large hogs and a generous
supply of yams, sweet potatoes, sugar
cane, etc. In addition he imposed on
Captain Blanchard, by way of passage
money, a gift of sandalwood to the value
of $i,000.
To his long-lost son, whom he had not
seen for fifteen years, he gave the Waimea Valley and conferred on him rank
second only to his own.
He was anxious to retain the missionaries and offered to give them valuable
lands and build dwelling houses, schools
and churches for them. He promised to
have the people learn to keep the Sabbath and pray and do whatever the missionaries required. So anxious were the
King and Queen to have the missionaries
remain, and so fearful that they might
not, that they could not sleep, we are
told, and so eager were they to learn to
read, or perhaps to seem so, that while
they could not surrender their favorite
recreation, they might be seen, standing
in the river up to their waists in water,
book in hand, repeating the lesson.
Whitney and Ruggles made an exploration of the island and then went back
to Honolulu to report. Meantime
Kaumu-alii continued his entreaties for
their return, entreaties so evidently genuine that the mission yielded, and Messrs.
Whitney and Ruggles and their families
sailed in the "Levant," Captain Cary,
and arrived at Waimea July 25, 182o.
They were met in the bay by the King
and Queen, who expressed great satisfaction by the oft-repeated exclamations
of "Nui-nui-maikai !" ("Very, very
good").
They had public worship on Sunday,
which was attended by the King and
Queen and their retinue, at the conclusion of which the King expressed his approval. "I like your way of worship very
much. My old way was pupuka. I will
come every Sabbath, and by and bye we
will build a big church and be like people
in America." He inquired with a good
deal of interest concerning the feasibility
of securing ship carpenters, smiths, armorers, powder-makers, etc., who doubtless seemed to him even more important
than missionaries.
The following letter purports to have
been written by his Queen, Debora Kapule, as the date indicates, within a few
days of their arrival to the mother of
Mrs. Ruggles :
"July 28, 182o.
"Dear Friend :—I am glad your daughter came here. I shall be her mother
now, and she shall be my daughter. I be
good to her : give her tapa, give her
plenty to eat. By and by she speak Hawaiian, then she teach me how to read
and write and sew, and talk of great
Akua, which the good people in America
love. I -begin spell little ; read come very
hard like stone. You very good send
your daughter long way to teach the
heathens. I am very glad I can write
you a short letter and tell you I be good
to your daughter.
"I send you my aloha and tell you I
am your friend.
"CHARLOTTE TAPULE,
"Queen of Atooi." (Kauai).
The simple explanation of this letter is
that it was the handiwork of George
Humehume, whose sense of propriety it
expresses rather than that of the said
Charlotte Kapule.
True to his promise, Kaumu-alii rendered every possible assistance to the
missionaries in establishing them in Waimea, where a commodious mission house
was built for them, with floor, doors and
THE MID-PACIFIC
365
or over it ; keep it yourself. Take care
of it as you have done ; and do with your
vessels and all your possessions as you
please."
A shout of joyful approbation signalized this happy denoument, and in token
of these newly established friendly relations Ke-kai-haa-ku-lou, the favorite wife
of Kaumu-alii was taken over by Liholiho and added to his already generous
harem. This, we are told, greatly displeased Kaahumanu, the dowager.
We may well question whether this
was anything more than a dramatic bit
In July of the following year, 1821, of play-acting on the part of Liho-liho,
(Kamehameha II., King of all the Ha- arranged for the deliberate purpose of
waiian Islands) made his daring and throwing dust in the eyes of his royal
foolhardy visit to Kauai, to make the per- host, to allay his suspicions until Lihosonal acquaintance of Kaumu-alii and re- liho could reverse the relations and put
ceive the confirmation of his allegiance himself in the strong position rather than
concerning which he was a little anxious. the weak one. And we may imagine the
He and his party were received with all satisfaction with which he recognized the
due deference by Kaumu-alii, who went fatuity of his rival in so dangerous a
out to meet him in the bay, took him game. At any rate, Liho-liho's action
ashore and domiciled him in a comforta- was strikingly at variance with his proble house, well furnished with Niihau fession, when, after having been entertained for several weeks by Kaumu-alii
mats and every Hawaiian convenience.
July 24, 1821, there was a royal con- with great kindness and hospitality, Liference at the palace—papa-ena-ena. ho-liho, invited him, on the arrival of his
When the mutual fears of the two mon- flagship, the Cleopatra's Barge, to go on
archs were set at rest, Kaumu-alii said : board for an hour or two; and as soon
"King Liho-liho, hear ! While your as they were well seated in the cabin sefather, Kameha-meha lived I acknowl- cretly gave orders to weigh anchor and
edged him to be my King. He is now bear away for Oahu, thus making a
dead ; you are his rightful successor, captive of his royal guest. On his arand you are my King. I have plenty of rival on Oahu he was compelled by his
muskets and ammunition and many sub- royal captor, in order to veil the irregujects at my command; these, with the larity of the proceeding, to marry the imvessels I have bought, with my fort and perious dowager Kaahumanu, who at
its guns, and with my islands, are yours. the same time took over as a similar
All are yours. Do with them as you marital asset his son, Ke-lii-aho-nui.
please, and make anyone governor that Whatever Kaahumanu may have been in
later years, she was at this time neither
you like."
a
desirable helpmate nor a considerate
A deep silence followed this avowal,
and all awaited anxiously the reply of master for any man. If in time she dethe King. In a few moments, with a veloped a certain amount of consideragenerous smile, he replied : "Kaumu-alii, tion, and even affection, for her royal
I have not come to take your island from consort, it was no thanks to Liho-liho,
you. I am not going to put any govern- nor any part of his plan.
glass windows. There were five bed
rooms, and two larger, which served as
dining room, school room and church.
The house stood near the water's edge, a
few rods east of the mouth of the river.
On one side it was enclosed by the King's
dwelling house and by a heavy semi-circular wall ten feet high, and on the other
side by the sea. In front was a small gallery, and back of the wall, which enclosed
nearly an acre of ground, stood the fort,
on the high bank of the river, commanding the village of Waimea.
LIHO-LIHO'S VISIT.
366
THE MID-PACIFIC
Mountain Stream and Fertile Valley, in Australia.
Australian Sheep are the best wool-bearers in the world.
Passing through Sydney Heads.
The Australian Bound Imigrant
By FRED -C. GOVERS
The great war has halted emigration from Great Britain to her colonies ;
but when the world has been made safe for Democracy, it is expected that a
great influx of settlers will make their homes in the rich, but undeveloped
lands, over-seas. New South Wales, in Australia, realizing her unbounded resources, and the need of settlers to develop them, will make a strong bid to
place these attractions before Anglo-Saxons the world over. The following is
an account of what may be any emigrant's experience in this great State of the
Island Continent :,
Refreshed in mind and body by his
voyage on the big liner, the emigrant
has at last arrived at Sydney, on the
southern shore of the famous harbor of
Port Jackson. Here he is welcomed by
the officers of the State Intelligence Department, who help him with his luggage, and indicate where he can obtain
cheap and comfortable lodgings for two
or three days. He then proceeds to the
offices of the department, where he col-
lects the Government contribution
toward the passage money of himself
and his family. As he has very little
capital, and knows nothing of Australian
life, he wisely determines to work on a
farm for a year, in order to gain experience, and to earn something to add to
his little stock of capital. The Department at once communicates with one of
the farmers on its books, and within a
week from arrival the newcomer is on
367
368
THE MID-PACIFIC
his way to a station in the country districts, where for the next twelve months
or so he will work on the farm, and his
wife will help in the household duties of
the farmer's home. As he had some experience of farming life in the old country, he can expect from los to fi a week
and his keep from the outset, his wife,
, too, will be earning something, all of
which will help to swell the little nestegg which is destined for the purchase
of a farm.
He Starts in Quest of Land.
At last the day comes when he decides
to strike out for himself and start a
farm of his own. For some time he has
worked as a farm-hand and bush handyman, thus obtaining a fair knowledge of
Australian methods of farming, in addition to saving a few pounds, and he is
now prepared to turn his capital and
experience to advantage. Having
learned that the proprietors of a large
estate, not • far away, are cutting their
property up into "living areas" which
they are selling on reasonable terms, he
decides to go and see this and other
similar properties for himself. He intends, in the first instance, to inspect the
land available close at hand in the district with which he is familiar, and if
this does not exactly suit him he will
make a journey by rail and view the
soils of other districts.
He Decides on This.
With a light heart he journeys to the
various sections of available land.
Camping at night, under the clear, starlit Australian sky, a few days' inspection brings him to a block of undulating, lightly timbered country, forming
part of one of the many large estates
which are being cut up by their proprietors in different quarters of the
State. The land is described as suitable
for grazing and agriculture, the soil,
mostly chocolate loam, lightly timbered ;
water supply good, and permanent
water to be obtained by sinking 15 to
30 feet.; average rainfall, 25 to 30 inches ;
distance from a township, 21/2 miles ;
distance from railway, 7 to 8 miles.
This seems to his now experienced eye
the very place for him. It is near a
State school (at which education is
free)—a very important point for him,
for his children will need to be educated; the water-supply is quite sufficient
for wheat and other crops, and can be
improved by well sinking; and timber
is available for the necessary fencing.
He looks at the land, has a ride round it
and through it, digs a few holes here
and there to try the depth of the soil
and its character, and is not long in deciding that he need go no further afield.
He accordingly returns and ascertains
the price of the block, and the terms of
payment, and these proving to be reasonable, he pays the deposit, and makes
ready to go into immediate occupation.
The balance of the purchase money is to
be paid off by instalments extending
over a period of years, bearing interest
at 5 per cent., at the end of which time
he hopes to find himself a freeholder.
He Pitches His Tent.
It is not always convenient to put up a
house, as soon as a selection is entered
upon. A small "humpy" or but is frequently built as a temporary dwelling
for the selector while he is doing some
preliminary work, but the most readily
erected ,and to many people the most
comfortable and healthy dwelling is a
well put up tent. As he will have to put
in a good deal of his time minding fires
at night when clearing his land, he finds
it better and more convenient at first to
live in a tent and move about the block,
thus saving time by being nearer the
scene of his operations. In the clear
Australian weather tent life is most enjoyable. There are no icy blizzards nor
storms of driving snow and sleet to drive
him shivering to shelter and the neighborhood of a big tree, and there are no
savage animals to be guarded against.
THE MID-PACIFIC
369
Many parts of Australia are as fertile and salubrious as any in the world.
The few scattered remnants of the
Australian blackfellow are, in New
South Wales, the most harmless and
peaceable of beings. And when his
day's work is done the pioneer can rest
secure in his house of canvas breathing
reinvigorating draughts of the healthgiving, eucalyptus-laden air of the Australian forest.
He Clears His Holding.
He is soon firmly established on his
selection and clearing is in full swing.
It is hard work, but he is used to that,
and a few weeks work make a big hole
in the timber. He grubs the land in the
best manner, runs the roots,, and burns
the large and unmanageable stumps in
the holes they occupy. He pushes on
with the clearing as fast as possible, as
he is anxious to get some, crop in the
first season so as to get some hay and
a little return in cash. As he is going to
plough the land himself it is far better
to make a good job of the grubbing
rather than run any risk of breaking his
plough and harness owing to roots be-
ing left in the ground that might come
in contact with his implements later on.
He has got a good area grubbed and a
few weeks will see the work completed,
the holes filled in, and the land ready
for the plough as soon as the season
arrives. A' few acres well tilled are
worth more than double the area badly
farmed.
He Puts Up His Fence.
One of the most necessary improvements a selector is called upon to make
is a good and sufficient fence to keep his
own stock in and other people's stock
out. The fence may be of many kinds,
from the old time brush-fence to the
modern wire fence and wire-netting of
various patterns. One of the essentials
of a sufficient fence, among other things,
is that it should be capable of confining
stock ordinarily controllable, and,
therefore, what may be a good fence in
one district would be for many reasons
unsuitable in another. As he intends to
make his boundary rabbit-proof later on,
he is doing this job in a permanent man-
370
THE MID-PACIFIC
ner, since he does not believe in doing
work twice if it can be avoided. Of
course, rough, temporary fences—either
what are called chock-and-log or dogleg fences—only cost the labor of putting them up, but they are not good cattle or sheep-proof fences, and would
not be permitted on a farm where every.thing is being done in the most workmanlike manner—which is, after all, the
most economical in the long run.
He Ploughs—Pair Horses—Single
Furrow.
To secure a good crop, not only must
the seed be good but the land must be
properly prepared ; and in farming, one
of the main operations in preparing a
good seed-bed is to plough well when
the land is in good condition. To
plough some soils when they are wet is
simply to ruin them for fully two seasons, while the same class of soil
ploughed when in good condition or
even dry will work down, when rain
comes, into a good seed-bed, the precursor of a good crop. As he was careful when clearing his land to do it thoroughly, ploughing is going on without
the trouble often experienced where
slap-dash methods of clearing have been
adopted. The delays caused by broken
plough-shares, when hidden roots are
struck, soon total up more than the time
it takes to remove the roots properly
when clearing. Cast shares are generally used nowadays, and if no more damage is done than breaking the point off
one of these, no great harm, perhaps, is
done. Still, when the amount of broken
harness and an occasional bad break on
the plough is considered, the loss of
time to the farmer and cost in blacksmith's repairs becomes a burden on his
resources, which is easily avoidable with
a little care.
He Drives to Inspect.
As progress has been this emigrant's
watchword, it is not surprising' to find
that in the course of a few years he has
added Considerably to his cleared area.
To bring additional land under the
plough, together with the many duties
he has to perform in connection with the
part already under cultivation, means
more work than he can accomplish without employing labor. He cleared many
acres himself at the start, he knows how
much it will cost and how it should be
done. He therefore keeps a watchful
eye on every operation, paying frequent
visits of inspection to the clearing gang.
He Goes in for Four Furrows.
After a few years, the cleared area
being extended annually, the amount of
ploughing for crops and fallow becomes
more than can be efficiently done by
means of a pair of horses and a single
furrow. The extent of his operations
warrants the outlay, so he gets a modern four-furrow plough, on which he
sits to drive his team and work the levers governing the steering and depth
wheels. Everything is under control
from his seat. He can throw the plough
out of gear, and should there be any obstacle, such as rocks or stumps, he can,
by using his levers, avoid a few yards
and start again without stopping. The
fact that he covers nearly four times as
much ground each trip with this plough
than is possible with a single furrow,
greatly reduces the cost of ploughing,
and although more horses are required,
still it takes only one man. He has two
teams at work and is getting a fairly
large area under wheat, but he is still
maintaining the system of doing a little
thoroughly rather than a lot indifferently, and therein lies the success he has
met with in his farming operations.
His Crops Look Well and He Has
Rabbit-proof Fences.
It is very gratifying to a farmer to see
his crops coming along well—a reward
of his care in giving them a good start
by careful tillage. It is also very heartbreaking to find the crop injured by
rabbits ; but, fortunately, rabbits are in-
THE MID-PACIFIC
371
capable of getting over close fences three is a very well kept vegetable garden
feet high. An odd one here and there wherein may be found all the vegetables
might do so, but the bulk do not. These in season. He has also a very prosperfences can be made either of wire-net- ous orchard, providing the family with
ting, fastened to an ordinary post and most lucious and health-giving fruit, bewire or post and rail fence, the lower sides having some for market. The
edge being let into the ground, or, as family has increased since the day he
he has done in this case (timber being set out in search of what is now his
plentiful), palings are' split from the home, and he also has to employ a few
bush timber and used to make the lower permanent assistants. What this emigrant has done can be done by others if
half of the fence solid. •
they
put their shoulder to the wheel and
He Gets a Nice Homestead Together
keep
it there.
and Sometimes Enjoys a Day's Outing.
New South Wales is a young counThe object of farming is to provide a
living for a man and his family, and the try, and only the fringe of her vast reoutcome of a few years' industry and sources has so far been touched. The
good methods in New South Wales is a prospects for the agricultural settler are
comfortable homestead: Our emigrant boundless, and to the rural emigrant
started with a tent and worked up slow- from the Mother Country who wishes
ly but surely through a slab-hut to a to cast his lot in a new land, the State
substantial and roomy cottage, sur- issues an ever-ready invitation welcomrounded by a pretty garden, where, be- ing him to her rich and fertile territosides the flowers that brighten the home ries.
372
THE MID-PACIFIC
Everywhere throughout Latin America, from northern Mexico to far
Southern Chile, the cathedral—massive or diminutive—
is the center of life, and the type of architecture beloved by the race.
The Latin-American cathedral of "today.
-114ft,
Some Latin American Cathedrals
By P. A. USTED
HE traveler in South America
who studies the various features
of the history of that continent,
the life of colonial times and that which
followed it as the national life of the
separate countries, soon discovers that
there is a well-defined line of demarcation between that time when the people
borrowed their artistic inspiration from
the traditional sources in Europe and
that later time when local influences began to be felt and when the continent
developed its own artistic sense that de-
T
manded some original expression. This
statement applies to the industries that
were first brought over from Europe
across the Atlantic ; it is true of the social life and of education in all the Republics of the southern continent manifesting characteristics which are peculiarly
their own ; it is likewise true of municipal
and governmental affairs, and finally in
regard to the construction of their buildings, especially of the architecture of the
eccleciastical edifices of the diocesan
capitals.
373
374
THE MID PACIFIC
As an example of the colonial epoch
in church architecture the cathedral of
Lima offers a good illustration. That
country has one archbishopric, that of
Lima, and eight dependent bishoprics,
viz, Arequipa, Huanuco, Chachapoyas,
Ayacucho, Puno Trujillo; Cuzco, and
Huaraz.
In connection with the name of Lima
two characteristics will always be intimately associated with its historic memories : Pizarro, the intrepid conqueror,
whose remains rest in the cathedral
whose cornerstone he laid, who founded
the capital and gave it the name of La
Ciudad de los Reyes (The city of the
Kings) ; and second a young girl who
renounced a life of social ease and pleasure and became renowned for her piety,
a renown which resulted in her canonization by Pope Clement IX in 1671 under
the name of Saint Rosa of Lima, the
patron saint of the capital city as well as
of all Catholic South America.
It was Pizarro who laid the plans for
the imperial city, including the erection
of a great metropolitan church. It was
not finished and dedicated until 1540, and
it was at the request of Charles V of
Spain that Pope Paul III raised the See
of Lima to an archbishopric. As a consequence it was determined to rebuild the
edifice, and the work was started under
auspicious circumstances. Owing to various interruptions, changes of plans, and
other delays the building was not finished
until 1625. Not long after the consecration of the cathedral, by order of the
Spanish viceroy, the mortal remains of
the great conquistador were transferred
to the edifice and now rest in a splendid
sarcophagus in one of the chapels.
In 1746 an earthquake made a mass of
ruins of the city of Lima, the cathedral
being among the buildings seriously
damaged. In 1758, it was finally completely restored. The building is of gray
stone, and is the largest of the old Spanish ecclesiastical edifices of South Amer-
ica. The facade is 480 feet wide, the
crowning feature of the building being
its two massive square towers. The many
columns and architectural decorations
are for the most part Corinthian in style;
it has five naves, each consisting of nine
arched vaults, the two aisles being
formed of ten chapels. The choir and
stalls are of cedar and mahogany and
are ornamented with remarkably fine
wood carving, while among the treasures
of the church are to be found some excellent paintings, among them being a
fine Murillo and one of Rembrandt's
masterpieces.
Among the cathedrals of Peru that of
.Arequipa is one of the oldest and most
interesting. The city was raised to a
bishopric in 1557 and the erection of the
cathedral was commenced in 1612. It
was completed in due course, but in 1844
its interior was partially destroyed by
fire, many of its rich treasures, paintings
and other possessions being lost, The rebuilding took 20 years, and four years
after its restoration it again suffered
some damage from the terrible earthquake of 1868. The structure faces the
Plaza de Armas, its facade measuring
450 feet in length. It has three entrances
and the building is supported by 70 large
columns of composite Ionic and Doric
style, lending it a massive and splendid
appearance. The interior is divided into
three naves, separated by superb columns
that support the great arches above with
harmonious effect. The main altar is of
marble, and . the pulpit of beautifully
carved wood.
Huanuco, capital of the Department of
the same name, was made an episcopal
See in 1865. The once large population
of the city has dwindled since the discovery of the famous copper mines at Cerro
de Pasco until now there are perhaps
about 8,000 left. The cathedral, which
fronts the plaza, is chiefly remarkable for
its solid construction, having stone arches
and a high and pointed steeple. This is
THE MID-PACIFIC
accounted for by the fact that severe
earthquakes have never visited this immediate section.
Chachapoyas has been a bishopric
since 1843. The cathedral is a simple
one-story structure of brick, having two
square towers to relieve the plainness of
the facade.
Ayacucho, a bishopric since 1609, has
a cathedral of more pretentious architecture built of volcanic rock from the Picota Mountains.
Puno, raised to a bishopric in 1861,
has a cathedral which is well constructed
and quite ornate in architectural embellishment. The space of the facade between the two towers is highly ornamented and has a number of fine statues
of saints placed in open niches as an unusual feature.
Trujillo, an episcopal see since 1577,
has a large and substantial cathedral,
whose architectural features are two
375
large towers with a cupola over the
center of the building. Many fine paintings decorate the sacristy. The general
plan of the building is similar to that of
the cathedral of Lima, but on a smaller
scale.
Cuzco, the ancient capital of the Incas,
was made a bishopric as early as 1536.
Construction of the cathedral was begun
the same year, but for one reason and
another the building was not completed
until 90 years thereafter. It is in the
style of the Spanish renaissance and was
built of stone at a tremendous cost. The
interior consists of three naves separated
by stone pillars which support the high
vaulted arches. In the central nave is
the choir, the carving of which is superb.
In front of it stands the high altar, covered with silver. Two fine organs fill
the church with the music of their rich
tones on Sundays and feast days.
An ancient temple of the Incas.
THE MID—PACIFIC
376
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Descending into Waipio, the home of the gods.
51-
Latura=ar
Hamakua, Home of Gods and Ghosts
By JEAN WEST MAURY.
UR boat, the fastest afloat on the
Pacific, Was giving us an everchanging view of an astonishingly green land rising straight up out
of the sea, and climbing higher and
higher until at last, as if wearied with its
upward racing, its snow-capped head
rested softly against the indescribable
blue of tropic skies.
"Don't give it a name," pleaded a soft
voice that hinted of Ireland's broken
hopes. "It's the land o' my dreams. A
name would spoil it."
"It's the Hamakua coast, Island of
Hawaii," spoke up a little man, who
O
looked a good deal like a column of figures. "That green stuff is sugar cane
when it ain't rice. The mountain with
the snow on it is Mauna Kea, an extinct
volcano, 13,285 feet. It has a summit
crater, or did have, till the last eruption
a few hundred years ago filled the crater.
The peaks you see," addressing a man
who was peering through a pair of binoculars, "are not peaks at all, but cinder
cones formed by gas pressure after the
crater was filled. The ground is not
smooth like you think it is," this to a
little girl who had expressed a wish to
roll down the green slope. "It's all cut
377
378
THE MID-PACIFIC
up by gulches and deuced hard to get
about over."
Having thus delivered himself the dispeller of dreams went down to breakfast.
"A Hamakua au,
Noho i ka ulu hala,
Malihini au i ka hiki ana,
I ka ua pe'epe'e pohaku.
Noho .oe a li'u-li'u,
A luli-luli malie iho."
This bit of ancient blank verse the
modern. Hawaiian interprets as follows :
"It was in Hamakua ; .
I sat in a grove of Pandanus, •
A stranger I was in the land,
A rock was my shelter from rain.
I sat in weariness waiting,
Cautiously shifting about."
Whatever else may have changed about
Hamakua since the first native chanted
this mete, the rain still comes down in
the same old way, and it is still almost
as hard (19 inches in 12 hours this
April), outside of the villages, to find
shelter from the frequent downpours. It
is a rain-hung, ghost-haunted region. Pagan Hawaii believed it inhabited by gods
as well as ghosts, and, if gods like keeping themselves out of too close touch
with mortals, they must have thronged
to Hamakua, for nowhere else could they
have found a more fitting abode.
As planned by nature this region is almost inaccessible to the outside world.
Ragged cliffs, hundreds of feet high,
make passage to and from the sea impossible, save for a few tiny inlets, while
inland great gulches and towering palis,
not to mention snow-capped Mauna Kea,
separate Hamakua from the rest of the
island. A daring little railroad, starting at Hilo, now spans the gulches and
skips impudently around the stupendous
palis, carrying mail and passengers to,
but not through the district. Railroad
engineering has to stop somewhere.
There are still farms and native villages
in Hamakua, within sound of the thundering surf, that can be reached only by
mule trail, and, back in the valleys, hundreds of acres of fertile rice lands lie
uncultivated year after year because of
the insurmountable difficulties in getting
the rice to market.
Before the advent of the railroad the
most practical way of reaching Hamakua was by boat, which, approaching as
closely as possible to the rocky shores,
landed its passengers by means of a basket swung from ship to shore. Freight
was landed by means of a cable, and
sugar for outgoing boats was put aboard
in the same way, a method that is still
in use.
Every plantation has its own landing.
One most frequently used is Koholalele,
the name immortalizing the unwarranted ambition of a whale, kohola being Hawaiian for whale, and lele for leap, the
two words together meaning "WhereWhale-Made-a-Leap."
The story is pathetic. Kohola, the
whale, entranced by the beauties of the
Hamakua coast, as any whale who had
a soul at all supermarine would be, desired to go ashore and explore the region. With his purpose firmly fixed in
mind, he swam near the surf-stormed
cliffs, made a leap, and landed high and
dry—that is, reasonably dry for a whale
—on a large and very hard rock. There
his explorations stopped. Having neither the feet of a beast nor the belly of a
snake, he was unable to continue his adventures on land, and, wingless, he could
not claim the air as his domain. Pride
forbade his return to the sea, so he just
laid his head down on the rock and became part of the coastline. There he is
to this day, the petrified embodiment of
a too soaring ambition. It is rather a
shame to have one's mistakes so perpetuated, but such is life when one is an
ambitious whale in the Mid-Pacific.
Early explorers of Hamakua found at
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Koholalele, at that time an important native city, a great heiau (native temple)
filled with idols, the chief of which was a
particularly ugly old war-god, at whose
rudely carved feet lay the whitened holies
of numerous pig and puppy sacrifices.
Of this old heiau nothing now remains
but a few loose stones, but about them
are woven many interesting legends, and
much of the actual history of Hawaii.
When the temple was first built nobody
knows. Hawaiian history, however, is
quite clear about the date of its rebuilding, probably because at its completion,
in 1460, Liloa, King of Hamakua, had
twenty-four of his subjects sacrificed to
the war-god. Near the heiau was a kuula, a rude shrine, sacred to the fish-gods,
where' native fishermen went to offer
prayers for luck at sea. The Government
Trigonometry Station now covers the
spot where the kuula stood, but the fishgods still seem to bless the waters round
about Koholalele, for it is here that many
kinds of delectable fish, including the
toothsome akule, which increases and
multiplies and replenishes the sea under
the family name of Trachurops crumenopthalmus, make their first appearance
every year.
Near Koholalele, now only a plantation landing, is the pretty little village of
Paauilo, which has a personality all its
own. Man-planted trees line the streets,
and beneath their spreading, flowerladen branches the village inhabitants,
Chinese and Japanese laborers, and their
respective betrousered and kimonoed
wives, pass and repass each other, without ever a glance or a sign that either is
aware of the other's existence.
At the upper end of this village there
is a gate opening on a long enticing road
that curves to outline the seashore, from
one to three miles distant. It's a most
alluring road, and if you once set foot
upon it you will be almost compelled to
follow it on and on until you are lost
to the world of men in one of the great,
ghost-haunted gulches. In this gulch
379
years and years ago a band of robbers
made their home, unmindful of the "desolate ghosts," the homeless spirits, who,
having no place to stop and rest, glided
with soundless, incessant movement
from tree to tree, and in and out among
the thick, formless shadows.
A branch of this road leads to the sea,
passing Monokaa, a sizeable town, with
a hotel where good food and a night's
lodging may be had for a sizeable price.
This hotel has a door in its roof through
which, for an additional consideration,
guests may enter a subterranean passage,
a tube of ,lava that leads back goodness
knows how far into the mountains in one
direction, and straight down into the sea
in the other. This passage used to be the
dwelling place of various kinds of ghosts,
who, at low tide, would make their way
through the mouth of the tube to the
earth above where they would sometimes
resume their mortal shape and perform
marvelous feats. The akua-hokie, the
Whistling Gods, presided over this passage, and their voices may still be heard
in uncanny shrieks and gruesome whistles to those venturesome enough to tread
this darksome underground road. At
Honokaa's plantation landing are the remains of another heiau, "Wawaemakilo,"
which means Beggar's Foot, where Kane,
greatest of Hawaiian deities, the CreatorGod, had all the fishes pass before him,
and gave to each its color.
One of the roads leading out of Honokaa joins Mud Lane, famous in Hawaiian history as being the road over
which Kamehameha the Great led his
armies after one of his terrible victories.
It used to have a Hawaiian name, but
that, too, meant mud, and the English
word being for once the more expressive,
the native name was dropped and forgotten. Another road leads to the heights
that overlook the valley of Waipio. On
these heights Kane once forgot the dignity befitting a god and, having drunk
deep of awa, reveled long and madly with
380
THE MID-PACIFIC
lesser divinities of both sexes. (The
place is still sacred to drunkards.)
Of all the Hamakua region, from the
foamy fret of the waves against the shore
to the white calm of the mountain's top,
there was no spot more beloved of the
gods than the sacred valleys of Waipio
and Waimanu. And still the gods must
love them, for still they have a weirdness
and charm surpassing mortal understanding. In their green depths the stars may
be seen at midday, and in them night
falls, dense and silent, while the sun is
still kissing the chill brow of Mauna Kea.
Waimanu, the upper valley, and the
' deeper and narrower of the two, is one
of the few places in the Hawaiian Islands
where the natives live just as they did a
hundred years ago. Tapa is still made
there, and the thump of the tapa sticks,
as the bark of the wauke tree is beaten
into fabric, may be heard from morning
till night in this valley. The tree which
provides the bark grows out on a little
spit of land called Laupahoehoe, Leaf of
Lava, just north of Waimanu. This little peninsula, which at high tide becomes
an island, holds still an ancient imu, native underground oven, famous as the
baking place of Paiae, one of the chiefs
of Laupahoehoe.
The story, which is said to be historically true, is illustrative of the times
from which it is drawn. In those days
decisions were reached about matters of
importance both great and small by. a
surfboard race between leaders of the
opposite sides. When two or more claimants arose for the leadership of a district, whether as chief or king, a surfboard race was arranged and the winner
became king or chief, the loser often being made a sacrifice to the gods. When
Paiae, the natural chief of Laupahoehoe,
found his chiefship disputed, it was by
Umi, a daring youth who afterward became king of Hamakua. A surfboard
race was proclaimed. The winner was
to be hailed as chief of Laupahoehoe and
the loser was to be baked in an imu. All
the people of the valley assembled to
watch the race, and the betting was high.
Umi won and Paiae, the natural chief,
was baked in his own oven.
"Haunt of white tropic bird and big
ruffled owl," runs Dr. N. B. Emerson's
translation of an old mahele,
"Up rises the first born child of the pali.
He climbs, he climbs, he climbs up aloft,
Kaholo-ku'-iwa, the pali of Hal.
Accomplished now is the steep,
The ladder-like series of steps.
Passed is Ka-maha-la'-wili,
"The very ridge-pole of the rain—
It's as if the peak cut it in twain—
A twisted cord hangs the brook Waihilau ;
Like smoke from roasting bird, ocean's
wild dance ;
The Shark-God is swimming the sea ;
See the ocean charge 'gainst the cliffs,
Thrust snout like rooting boar against
Windy Cape,
Against Kohola-lele.
This bit of vers libre describes the valley of Waipio. While the "white tropic
bird" has found other haunts, and the
"big ruffled owl" is now seldom seen,
the frigate bird, fresh from its quests at
sea, still flaps its long wings over the
valley, and that tiny scarlet bird, which
once gave its life with its plumage to
make mantles for the high chiefs, still
flits songlessly from branch to branch
of the flaming ohia tree. If it ever had
song the notes are forgotten. Silent it
is now, scarlet keeper of the vivid silence
that broods over the green valley.
Hawaiian names are full of meaning.
Hamakua itself is made up of two words
descriptive of the place, "hama" to open
as the mouth, as open the gorge-like valleys on the sea, and "kua," high land all
of it meaning "Mouth-Opening-Into-aHigh Place." Some of the names have a
more fanciful meaning. Take Keakeomilu, for instance. Keakeomilu means
THE MID-PACIFIC
the Liver of Milu, and had its origin in
a legend which has to do with the early
practise of kahuna arts, an evil from
which some of the Hawaiians, and many
Filipinos and other immigrants, still suffer, and which, because of the bills that
are introduced for its prohibition, occasions much picturesque oratory in the
Territorial Legislature. Briefly told, the
story is this :
Lono, the first High Priest of Kahunas, lived in Hamakua, where, in the
valleys of Waipio and Waimanu, he held
converse with the gods, and received
from them instructions in the use of certain concoctions and incantations, all of
which had power to result in the healing, or, if the opposite end should be desired, in the death of some one for or
against whom the arts were practiced.
Milu, High Chief of Hamakua, was a
disobedient and irreverent person, who,
through his disregard to the gods, suffered various ills. Lono healed him several times, each time placing upon him
some penance which he must make in expiation of his sins. At one time he was
put into a lonely but where he was commanded to stay, without once peeping
out, for many days. The day before his
penance would have been completed he
heard a noise down by the sea that attracted his attention. Stepping outside
his but to look and listen he was pounced
upon by a huge bird, who tore out and
devoured the liver of Milu before its
owner's eyes. Again came Lono, High
Priest of Kahunas, with healing in hands
and voice, and Milu, minus his liver,
lived to see a pretty village spring up
around the penitential hut. His last act
of disobedience, years later, cost him his
life, but the village is there to this day,
and the name it bears, Keakeomilu, keeps
green the memory of Milu's liver.
Laukaieie, Leaf of the Isie, another
Hamakuan village, was so named because
at this spot Kewalu, a beautiful princess,
choked herself to death by twisting an
isie vine about her neck when she was de-
381
serted by her lover, Hiku. The same
vine made a rope for the remorseful
Hiku to descend into the Spiritworld in
search of the suicide. The descent was
made through a hole which may still be
seen near the sea in Waipio Valley.
Spiritland was ruled over by Milu, the
same high chief who, through his disobedience, lost first his liver and last his
life, and when Hiku, after adventures
enough to inspire a Hawaiian Dante,
finally found his spirit sweetheart she
was in the spectral arms of the dread
Milu himself. Mere mortal strength
Hiku knew well enough would not serve
him against the Master of the Underworld. If Kewalu was to be recovered
and returned to the land of the living it
would have to be through cunning. Fortunately the heavy coating of bad-smelling oil under which Hiku was masquerading as a departed still in the flesh kept
the fastidious Milu at a distance. It
caused him also to avert his head. Taking advantage of this Hiku beckoned to
Kewalu, who had recognized her lover
in spite of the smell. Drifting out of
Milu's embrace, she joined Hiku in the
swing he had made of the isie vine and
the two began swinging, while all the
Departed Spirits danced with glee. Higher and higher swung Hiku with Kewalu,
to the increasing fury of Milu, until
finally they swung back to earth, by
which time Kewalu, being only a spirit,
had become very small, and was about
to slip back through the hole to the Place
of the Departed. Hiku, however, was
prepared for this with a cocoanut shell.
Clapping her into the shell, he took her
to a kahuna, who restored her to her
flesh and to Hiku. Such is the power of
the kahuna.
In Waipio Valley the winds of heaven
were kept by an old priest, who shut them
up in a calabash made of koa wood, with
a close-fitting lid. When a gentle breeze
was wanted the old priest would lift the
lid, oh, ever so little, and a tiny wind
would slip out and spread itself into a
382
THE MID-PACIFIC
sephyr. But if he lifted the lid high
enough to let out one of the great winds
he could do nothing more with that wind
until it returned to be shut up once more
in the calabash. The natives of Waipio
still point out to each other where the
old priest kept the calabash. They have
a saying, too, that the great winds of the
earth come to Waipio Valley to rest, and
it is true enough that when all the mountain side is racked and torn by storm, in
the valley there is peace.
On the north side of this valley there
is a waterfall called Neneue, for a child
who bore that name. This child was
born near the waterfall and when its
mother was bathing it for the first time
she found that it had a shark's mouth
opening into its back. The mother kept
the child always clothed—an unusual
thing in those days, and she would allow
him to eat no meat. Sometimes, in spite
of her precautions, she would find that
his shark nature was overcoming the
child, and at such limes she would take
him to swim in the basin at the foot of
the falls—but always alone, so that no
one might see the terrible birthmark.
When he was fourteen, and old enough
to begin eating with the males of the
tribe, his grandfather took him to a luau
and allowed him to eat meat. This thoroughly aroused his shark nature, and
with that day his depredations began.
His mother lost control over him. Manfood he wanted, and man-food he would
have. He would wait until a party of
bathers or surf-riders were in the sea,
himself among them, then while swimming under water he would change himself to a shark, leap up and capture a
man. He is said to have thus eaten some
of his best friends. One day when, according to custom, all the youths of the
village were required to work in the taro
patch, and all the others appeared in simple malo, ready for their labors, Naneue
came wearing his tapa cloak as usual.
While he squatted, weeding his taro, a
mischievous youth behind him jerked the
cloak from his shoulders, thus exposing
the dreadful shark's mouth. Instantly
the erstwhile peaceful taro patch became
Pandemonium. From a hundred throats
burst forth wild cries of "A shark-man !
A man-Eater ! To the oven with him !"
And all the people seized him, bound him
with thongs, and bore him away to the
imu. However, while . he lay on the
ground till the oven could be prepared, he
managed with the help of his ancestor
gods, to turn himself into a shark, whereupon the thongs slipped off him, and before he could be touched by man he had
slid down into the river, which bore him
swiftly out to sea, and he returned no
more to Waipio.
A more pleasant fancy hovers about
the falls of Hiilawe, in the Waipio River.
Hiilawe, son of a noblewomen, was born
at the foot of the pali by the river, and
immediately after his birth he was
wrapped in moss and thrown into the
stream. He was rescued by a kupua, a
sort of superhuman, who knew he was
a chief and destined for great deeds.
Just what these deeds were the legend
fails to record, being wholly concerned
with Hiilawe's birth, his rescue from
drowning, his subsequent death and burial, and his after-life. When he was dying he asked that he might be buried
"where he could see the eyes of his people." Every effort was made to grant
his wish. Like Moses, Hiilawe was
buried on the heights overlooking the valley he loved, but unlike the hidden grave
of Moses, a great stone, believed to be
the young chief's petrified body, marks
his burial place for all to see. Furthermore, a goddess, remembering his wish,
sent his spirit to dwell in the beautiful
falls that bear his name, so that he might
always see the eyes of his people when
they were turned toward him in adoration.
The lost pink and white terraces.
The Tragedy of Tarawera
From the diary of
H. A. PARMELEE
and intelligent observers ; and the secNew Zealand, March 8, 1909.
T HAT "Mid-Pacific" readers may ond, that the vivid impressions prounderstand the situation, I will duced by experiences so starting were
give a little history of the great set down in writing while still fresh
upon the mind. I think it will be valueruption of Mount Tarawera in 1906.
able
to reproduce these as nearly as
"About one o'clock in the morning
possible
in the words of the spectators.
the rumblings that had accompanied the
A
Mr.
McRae, whose courage
earthquake shocks, now gave way to a
throughout
the whole of the dreadful
loud and dreadful roar, attending with
night
has
since
been deservedly extolled,
crackling noises. The former undoubtedly came from the open throat of the vol- says :
"About twenty minutes to one, it becano, while the latter was probably
electrical. The booming reports, like gan to shake, and shook continuously
heavy cannonading, were heard at Auck- for about an hour before the eruption
land, loud enough to arouse people from broke out. When this was first seen, it
was like a small cloud on the mountain,
sleep."
In placing upon record events con- shot with flashes of lightning of great
nected with this remarkable eruption, brilliancy. The mount had three crathere are two circumstances which con- ters, apparently, and flames of fire were
tribute materially to the production of shooting up fully a thousand feet. There
an accurate account. The first is the seemed to be a continual shower of balls
fact that the phenomena was watched of fire for miles around. Shortly after,
throughout by a number of independent what seemed to be a heavy hail-storm
T
383
384
THE MID-PACIFIC
came pouring on the roof, which continued for a quarter of an hour. This
was succeeded by a heavy fall of stones,
fire-balls and mud ; the latter falling
after the manner of rain."
Mr. J. 0. Blythe, surveyor, at Mr.
Hazard's house, states :
"We went to bed at the usual hour.
I was awakened shortly before two a.m.
by Miss Hazard, asking if I had felt
the earthquake shocks. The house was
then shaking violently. We went out
on the veranda, and saw immense volumes of smoke in the eastern direction,
charged with flame. There was a loud
rumbling which continued for some
time. Then I saw on the end of Tarawera something like red lights, and
thought it was the Ariki natives coming
from Rotomahana.
"Mr. Hazard proposed to light a fire
in the drawing room, and for us all -bp
go there. It was now about three
o'clock, and the noise outside was tremendous. There was a great rattling on
the roof as of stones falling, with earthquake shocks every ten minutes. We
all kept in the center of the room, thinking that its ridge was the strongest
part to resist the stones.
"We kept walking to the window to
see if we could make out what the
trouble was. (What the trouble was !
My word ! I should have thought that
it would not have been a subject of conjecture, should you?)
"We could see nothing but lightning.
We felt the door was being pressed inwards, and we noticed some dirt at the
bottom of it. The last thing that I remember was when there was an earthquake shock at half-past three. I am
sure that was the time as I looked at
my watch. Without any warning the
roof fell in."
Mr. Minnett, who was staying at Mr.
Humphrey's boarding-house at Wairoa,
was aroused from sleep at about one
o'clock. At first he says :
"I first
tried to think that it was a heavy storm
of wind, which the sound resembled.
There was a violent roaring, lasting
from four to five minutes at a time,
then dropping for a minute or so at a
time, then breaking out again. I lit a
candle, but not wishing to disturb the
people in the house needlessly, I sat
listening to the rattling of the doors anti
polting to-and-fro of the furniture, and
trying to discover the cause of it without leaving my room. I sat there for
about three-quarters of an hour, when
I heard a loud voice calling up the
stair-way, 'Stubbs, Stubbs, come and see
Tarawera blow up.'
"It was Humphreys calling, and I was
dressed and out in the street in about
half a minute, and soon Stubbs and
Humphreys joined me. We looked in
the direction of Tarawera, and there
we saw a cloud gradually rising, black
as ink, behind the hill that shelters Wairoa. It was flashing with lightning in
every direction, while occasionally fireballs, like rockets, dashed from it. The
number of these, and their vivacity, increased to a fearful extent while we were
gazing. The cloud kept slowly and
steadily rising, and gradually bent over
in our direction. Stubbs and I proceeded to where we thought we could
get a good view over the lake, but the
darkness was intense, the cold piercing,
and it appeared dangerous (sic) to go
forward, as we were getting more and
more under the cloud and its dropping
fires. The cold was so intense that I had
to go back for my greatcoat, and arriving at the house I found that I could
not keep a candle alight. The wind
forced the door open. I turned back
again up the Mu road. From the hill,
near the church, I could see Tarawera
mountain belching out flames thousands
of feet high into the air, and illumining
the whole heavens. Clouds of steam
and smoke rose above this. The cloud
meanwhile was increasing in volume, and
extending over our heads. The wind increased, and we had scarcely reached the
THE MID-PACIFIC
McRae house, when it began, as we
thought, to rain heavily. The windows
were smashed in, and we found that
what we thought was rain, was scoria
and stone. The wind blowing violently
was veering round in every direction,
stones and scoria were dashing on the
house with deafening noise, and the roaring of the crater was tremendous. The
stones fell apparently from the ceiling
of the room that we were in, and about
two tons of sand came thundering
through the roof, clearing all before it,
and lodging in the stair-cases within a
yard where we were assembled. Looking out we perceived a fire on the opposite side of the road, which reminded
us of the danger we were in from the
same cause, and in about five minutes'
we saw a still larger fire to our right,
which we at once made out to be Mr.
Hazard's house, all ablaze."
The belief that all of the inmates of
Mr. Hazard's house were dead turned
out to be erroneous. Mrs. Hazard being dug out alive several hours after
the disaster. She since narrated her
dreadful experiences.
"My two daughters, Clara and Ina,
escaped into a detached portion of the
house. While setting in my chair, with
my three remaining children around me,
I was pinned to the floor by the leg
through the roof falling in, and I believe that it was at this time my husband was killed. I had my youngest
child, Mona, a girl aged four, in my
arms, a boy aged ten, Adolphus, on my
right, and a younger child, aged six, on
my left. Mona, who was in my arms,
cried to me, to give her more room, as
I was pressing her against the beam,
but the load of volcanic mud pouring
down on me prevented me from being
able to render any assistance, and the
child was crushed and smothered in my
arms, and died.
"Adolphus said to me, 'Mama, I will
die with you,' and I think that he did
385
shortly after, as he did not answer
again. The little girl, I think, died
shortly after, as she said, 'Oh, my head!'
as the mud was beating down on he:,
and she spoke no more.
"During my entombment I thought a
search party would come to search the
room. I 'cooed' to the first people I
heard about the place. Mr. Blythe, Mr.
McRae, Mr. Lundius and others got me
out on hearing my call, after having
been entombed for several hours."
Well, here we are at Wairoa, where all
this happened. We first see the old mill,
with water-wheel on the ouside of the
building just as you see them in pictures of old ruined mills, but the wheel
is just as it was after the horrible night,
half submerged in the gray mud, part
of the roof left covered with the miser
able stuff, the other half fallen in with
the weight of it. Then we see the ruins
of the hotel. Here is the fallen balcony,
and here is the spot where the body of
poor Bainbridge was found. Here i.,
the location of the Hazard house, where
the dear little children were smothered,
one in the arms of its mother; piece of
posts sticking out of the now solidfied
mud, and here is the hen house that sheltered Miss Hazard and her companions,
still standing, when built, no doubt, considered the most flimsy of any building
on the place, but it stood the shock and
weight of debris when the more substantial and costly buildings failed.
We could see where there had been
gardens by the top rails and pickets
showing out of the mud, with tops of
flowering shrubs and berry bushes, ornamental trees, parts of carts and wagons.
Oh ! it was a sad sight. And having
noticed the thin crust in some places we
had walked over at Rotorua, and knowing the terrible forces still working underneath us, not far off, made one feel
rather "creepy" and far from being in
a hallowed spot. It seemed very close
to inferno.
386
THE MID-PACIFIC
lao Needle on Maui is the test of the mountain climber's endurance, it has been
seldom scaled, and is the scenic pride of the island.
In the crater of Haleakala.
The Mountains of Maui
M
AUI, second in size of the
Hawaiian Islands, has two
lofty mountain masses separated by a narrow isthmus. On one
side lies the mountain mass of West
Maui, 6,000 feet high, with its
bristling peaks, jagged ridges and deep
gorges ; to the east, in striking contrast,
lies the grand dome of mighty Haleakala,
10,000 feet high, its huge mass equalling
two or three shastas, and its vast crater,
thirty miles in circumference, big enough
to swallow a dozen Etnas.
These mountains have been built up
from great depths by successive outflows
of lava from some opening in the crust
of the earth. First, the mountains of
West Maui were formed ; then Haleakala. At first, no doubt, they were on
separate islands with a shallow channel
between them. This has been filled up
with sand by the action of wind and
wave, and with soil washed down from
the mountains of West Maui, the work
of ages.
Haleakala Crater.
The principal features (outside of its
scenic beauty) of Haleakala, the largest
known crater in the world, are its precipitous walls, 1,500 to over 2,000 feet high ;
its ten or twelve large cinder cones, 300
to 800 feet in height, appearing no more
than ant hills from the brink ; and its
two immense outlets, the eastern one
called the Koolau Gap, the southern one
the Kaupo Gap.
To these two gaps is due the preservation of this wonderful crater. It is
the only extinct crater in these islands
that remains open in all its grandeur and
sublimity. The central Crater of Kauai
has been so filled up and effaced by a
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medley of mountain ridges and peaks
that geologists are unable to locate it.
The central crater of Oahu has suffered
by erosion or subsidence, and is not well
defined. The craters of Mauna Kea and
Hualalai on Hawaii, are both filled up,
leaving their summits crowned with cinder cones. The activity will doubtless become filled craters, losing their fires and
other features of attraction.
So Haleakala but for its two gaps
might have been only a dreary mountain
top with no crater to attract the tourist.
There is abundant evidence that many of
the earlier lava flows of Haleakala burst
through mountain side openings ; some
of them near the summit. When the
flows ceased, the cooling lava would
seal up the openings. Finally the internal lava pressure became so great, that
the mountain sides were rent asunder,
and gigantic highways made for the lava,
which never could be sealed. Certain it
is that many immense flows escaped
through these two gaps. Some of the
final small flows can be traced which did
not pass far beyond the crater gateways.
The Hawaiians have no authentic tradition of the time when Haleakala was an
active volcano. It was probably a dead
crater long before these islands were inhabited by man.
Formation of Valleys and Hills.
The northeast, or rainy side of Haleakala, is much cut up in valleys. All these
valleys center around the crater as the
great radiating point. Many of them
mark the courses of some of the upper or
final lava flows of the crater. The surface of a large stream of lava always
cools and hardens, sometimes to a depth
of two or three feet, while underneath,
the liquid lava continues to flow. Any
obstruction to or increase of the flowing
mass beneath will rupture the surface
crust, throwing the jagged fragments
each side of the flow, often in masses 4o
to 6o feet high, and sometimes for miles
along the course of the flow. This generally leaves a depression in the flow
down which mountain torrents will naturally run, and in time gouge out a valley.
Maliko gulch is no doubt on the site of
such a flow.
The row of four large cones on the
east side of this gulch originated from
this flow. Each of these hills was formed
by a portidn of the lava of the flow finding an under-ground passage on one side
of the stream, and finally forcing itself to
the surface again, throwing up dirt, lava
and cinders. The operation continued
will form a hill.
Some valleys are formed no doubt by
water running down depressions in the
land made by causes other than the
breaking up of the center of a lava
stream.
Mountains of West Maui.
This mountain mass was once no doubt
a great volcanic dome like Haleakala,
though much smaller. But it has been
cut up into innumerable valleys and
gorges ; gorges which cut deep into the
heart of the mountain and are enclosed
by mighty walls of rock often rising
thousands of feet. This has been the
work of water erosion. Probably half
the original mass of the mountain has
been thus excavated. The older islands
of Kauai and Oahu have also suffered
from water erosion ; but not to the same
extent that the priore recently formed
West Maui and Molokai have suffered.
The reason of this is evident. Nearly
all the rain that falls now on West Maui
comes from the vapors of the ocean,
which are taken up into the air and carried by the trade winds to the mountains
of West Maui. The warmer they are, the
more moisture they absorb.
Now, let us go back a few centuries to
the period when volcanic activity ceased
on West Maui, and it became the cold
mountain it now is. At the same time
Haleakala was a raging furnace of fire,
its vast streams of lava heating land and
air and increasing the vapor carrying capacity of the wind. These warm winds
carried their heavy burden of vapor to
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West Maui. The inevitable result must
have been rainfalls such as have never
been experienced in modern times. And
this water deluge must have continued
for a long period of time in order to
break up the mountains to such a terrible
extent.
On the east side of the mountain the
rain wash helped the sand fill up the shallow channel between East Maui and
West Maui. On the west side it built
up the plain of Lahaina. Some have
supposed that this plain was once below
the level of the sea, and that the land
has been elevated. The well some years
since bored at Lahaina disproves this.
This disclosed to a depth of a hundred
feet or more below the level of the sea
only lava, soil and stone; no coral, limestone, or other sea products.
Wayside Robbers and Mountain Trails.
In ancient times there were two trails
leading over the West Maui mountains.
One was from Waiehu directly over the
summit peak Kukui to Lahaina. The
other was up the Wailuku valley, over
an intervening ridge, and down the Olo-
389
walu valley terminating near Lahaina.
The ancient Hawaiians often took one of
these trails in preference to the shorter
and easier coast route ; sometimes to
avoid the heat, but generally to escape
robbers who had lurking places on most
of the lonely coast routes of the island.
They were called robbers ; but their object often was to rob a man of his large
bones with which to make spear points
or fish hooks. This was before the introduction of iron or large animals.
These mountain trails have long since
been obliterated by disuse and erosion.
Wayside robbery sometimes occurred
even as late as 6o or 70 years ago. About
1836, when I was a young lad at Lahaina,
a native employed to bring letters from
Wailuku to my father, reported that he
was attacked by a robber on the mountain
coast route not far from Maalaea Bay.
In the struggle he bit off one of the robber's big toes. The robber at once relaxed his hold and fled. In proof of his
story the messenger exhibited the bloody
toe.
The bird of paradise.
The Fauna of the Malayan
Archipelago
irk
HE Malay Archipelago, by reaOn the other hand, tropical Asia proson of its position, exhibits duces many placental mammals, but the
many animal types which be- species are not so confined as are those
long, in part, to both Asia and Australia. of Australia. Many of the types are
With respect to its fauna, Australia common to Africa as, for example, the
stands apart from other regions. The Lemurs which are abundant in Madagashigher mammals are absent, while others car. '
are very special forms of the MonotreThe great Sunda Islands, Sumatra,
mata (duck-bill and ant-eater) and of the Java and Borneo, belong to the same
Marupials, which are quite unknown to faunal region as southeast Asia, and with
Asia although they are found in South Malacca, form part of the Oriental reAmerica.
gion. New Guinea and its adjacent
T
390
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islands, especially the Key and Aroo
groups, exhibit a fauna of a distinctly
Australian character and form part of
the Australian region. Wallace divided
the Archipelago into two distinct regions by tracing an imaginary line between Borneo and Celebes, and between
Bali and Lmobok. Such a division, however, cannot be made, as there is a gradual change in species from the one region
to the other.
The fauna of these three islands resembles that of Malacca, yet each has its
own peculiar types. Borneo has probably been a separate unit of the Archipelago for a longer time than the other two,
and its animal types differ somewhat
from those of Java and Sumatra. After
its separation an interchange of species
naturally became more difficult, while an
interchange between Java and Sumatra
was comparatively easy. For all that,
Borneo has many animals in common
with Sumatra with the adjacent islands
of Nias, Engano, etc., form one whole
with Java, especially with respect to the
insect ,world.
Common to both Borneo and Sumatra
is the orang utang, but it -is not met with
in Java, while the tiger is a native of only
Java and Sumatra.
The long-nosed ape is confined to Borneo, while the Simang, Hylobates Syndactylus is only found in Sumatra.
There are numerous species of monkeys which Asia shares with the large
Sunda islands. Of these, Sumatra claims
the greater number ; then Borneo and
Java in the order named.
The tarsier is known only to these
islands, but another lemur, the slow loris
or plomploris, is found also in southeast
Asia. There are also some remarkable
insectivorous animals, Tupaia, the tupai
and Galeopithecus which are charasteristic of tropical Asia.
It is a remarkable fact that the Banteng, or Bos sondaicus, which is found
throughout Java and Borneo and also the
391
Indo-Chinese peninsular, is not found in
Sumatra.
The Caraboo is a species of buffalo
which came originally from British India
and has been tamed for domestic purposes.
Of the deer which are characteristic of
this region, mention need only be made
of the Kanchil or dwarf deer, Tragulus
and the Kidang or muntjac.
Among the pachyderms of tropical
Asia, the. elephant and tapir are common
to Borneo and Sumatra. Species of the
former are found in Africa, and species
of the latter in South America, but neither are found in Java. There is, however,
in Java, the rhinoceros with one horn,
Unicornus rhinoceros; but Borneo and
Sumatra have a species of their own with
two horns, Rhinoceros Sumatrensis.
Hedgehogs and moles are unknown ;
but a kind of shrew, the tjeroeroet, Crocidura murina, is common throughout the
Archipelago as far as Celebes.
The bird life of these islands is very
similar to that of the mainland. A few
species are worthy of special mention,
e. g,. the argus pheasant, Argusiantis
argus which is common to Siam and Sumatra.
In Java, we find the peacock and the
red jungle fowl, which is the original
form of the common domestic fowl.
These birds are also found in Ceylon and
British India. There is however a remarkable scarcity of parrots, which are
very numerous in the eastern islands of
the Archipelago.
—Celebes, the Moluccas and the Timor
archipelago.
These islands form the transitional region mentioned above. As we approach
the Timor Archipelago we notice a gradual change in types. Bali has many birds
in common with Java ; but Lombok only
a few, while in the latter island we meet
with the cockatoo for the first time. The
deep sea between Timor and Australia
would lead one to suppose that if a sep-
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THE MID-PACIFIC
aration has taken place from the Continent, it was at a much earlier period than
the separation from Java. This would
account for the fact that the Australian
types are much more varied than those of
Java.
It is in Timor that we first meet with
a Marsupial, the Cuscus Phalanger; but
there are no kangaroos.
The common monkey, Macacus Cynomolgus is found as far as Timor and Batjan ; but these islands form the eastern
limit for monkeys. Again the cat tribe
is only represented as far as Timor,
which shares with Rotti a particular species, Felis megalotis.
From a point of view of its fauna, Celebes is the most remarkable island of
the Archipelago. It has many species
which are entirely different to those of
the other islands, while allies are found
as far away as Europe and Africa. The
fact that it has species in common with
Borneo would lead one to ascribe a greater age to the Strait of Makassar than is
generally supposed. Only in North Celebes and Batjan do we find the Cynopithecus niger, which is akin to the African baboons. Again the remarkable
family of the Anoa and the Babiroussa
are confined to Celebes with the neighboring islands Buru, and the Sulu Archipelago.
Some Australian types such as species
of Cuscus have penetrated into Celebes,
while of the Oriental types, we find Macacus, Tarsius, Viverra and Roussa.
Celebes exhibits many varieties of parrots, of which the greater number are
indigenous. The remarkable parrots
with racquet shaped tails (Prionitures)
are also found in the Philippines. The
Coracias temmincki is common to east
Asia, Europe and Africa, but it is not
met with in any part of the Oriental region.
We have seen that the Oriental types
are not very common to Celebes, but they
are still less common to the Moluccas.
There are no monkeys. We find the
shrew, and there are rats which belong
to the Australian species like those of
New Guinea, Celebes and the Philippines. The hog and civet cat exist, but
they have probably been imported. Duckbills are more plentiful than in Celebes ;
in fact the Moluccas are richer in birds
than any other part of the Archipelago.
Parrots, kingfishers and doves constitute
as much as a third part of the bird life,
and, although they are allied to those of
New Guinea, have now developed into
species of their own.
The Megapodes are also found in the
Moluccas, and, in Ceram we meet with
the helmeted Cassowary of New Guinea.
Finally insect life has reached here its
highest stage of development, and among
the butterflies, the magnificent Ornithopteras deserve special mention.
New Guinea with the Key and Aroo
Islands.
These islands are purely Australian in
character and in this region is found the
Australian ant-eater and many species of
duckbills. Here also is a genuine species
of kangaroo (the tree kangaroo), Dendrolagus ursinus.
New Guinea is the real home of the
birds of paradise and parrots. There are
beautiful kingfishers, and, among the
many doves, is the crown pigeon. Nearly
all these birds are kindred to the Australian types ; but there are also some Oriental species. As in Australia there are no
pheasants, vultures, woodpeckers or junglefowl.
When one considers the great difference between the climate and vegetation
of New Guinea and Australia, it is very
remarkable that there should be such a
similarity of fauna.
A True Giesha
By S. SHEBA
Mr. Sheba was one of the founders of
the Pan-Pacific Movement in Hawaii a
decade ago. Born in Japan, he made his
fortune in Hawaii, owning several daily
newspapers in the Islands, printed in
Japanese. A few years ago he returned
to Japan. He is an orator in two languages, and it will be seen in the story
we publish from his pen that he has well
mastered dramatic English.
•
While aged pine trees stand and roar
against the wind of night,
And the moon's silver lines glitter on
the sand of Akashi,
The flock of wild geese are lost beyond
the mist of Awaji ;
Lonely floats the masterless craft on the
sea of Suma.
—Utazawa.
W
ITH this song on her lips a
geisha girl recited on her
samisen the love story of blind
Sawaichi and O'Sato, who lived in the
days of feudal Japan.
The story as it was recited to me
runs that Sawaichi and O'Sato were
betrothed from their childhood and they
loved one another. When she reached
her seventeenth summer their blissful
souls were united, and they remained
ever as happy as two little birds until
three years had passed, when Sawaichi
was suddenly claimed by an illness
which developed into a case of smallpox.
In spite of O'Sato's tenderest care,
Sawaichi became worse day by day, and
though his life was spared he lost his
sight completely. And this was the beginning of their. calamities.
Pretty as she was in looks, O'Sato
was tender in heart as well. She rested
all her hopes and joys in blind Sawaichi.
Not for a day nor for a night, nay, not
even for a moment did she forget Sawaichi. His joy Was hers and every
comfort she could conceive of was offered to him, whose heart occasionally
sunk in sadness and despair. O'Sato's
smiles could no longer enter the eyes
of her young blind husband, and her
heart therefore was often filled with sobs
and prayer.
At the dead of night when the gong
of a distant temple echoed over the
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394
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neighboring hills and died away, O'Sato
would quietly creep out of her bed and
be gone for an hour or longer, at first
without the knowledge of Sawaichi, but
soon to his knowledge and suspicion
which caressed by love and sustained by
blindness gradually grew into jealousy.
Sawaichi, now a prey of cruel jealousy, would comfort himself on the
samisen, of which he was very fond.
A pathetic tune which he happened to
play one evening almost broke his heart.
His feeling became intense when he
sang a song of a blind man deserted by
his sweetheart. O'Sato was sobbing beside him. "O'Sato," broke out Sawaichi.
"Hai," answered O'Sato sweetly. "I
must divorce you," said the blind husband, whereupon O'Sato jumped to his
side overcome by her husband's sudden
verdict and the tone of his determination.
O'Sato soon unriddled the cause of her
husband's jealousy and had to explain
how she crept out of her bed when the
world was out of bustle and made pilgrimages to a certain temple to pray
for the recovery of his sight. "I pledged
myself to make one hundred pilgrimages for the recovery of your sight and
I only finished the ninety-ninth last
night," said she. "0, how cruel you are
to suspect me ! My only hope is in your
recovery. How could I ever think of
anyone else but you? You are my one
and only sweetheart. You are the only
man in the world I have given my
heart. How can you suspect me? How
cruel you are !" As she said this she
cried bitterly by the side of Sawaichi.
Sawaichi's heart soothed and his unworthy feelings gone, he now felt sorry
that he had mistrusted his faithful wife
who had done everything in her power
to make his life happy. Sawaichi embraced O'Sato and cried aloud. They
agreed to visit the temple together on
the last pilgrimage and to pray to their
god for the final blessing.
On the temple ground the young
couple knelt down for hours, offering
their prayers to god and asking for his
mercies. The roar of a distant waterfall, the surrounding loneliness of the
ground, and the stillness of the night
filled their souls with awe and they were
absorbed in their prayer, which came
from their very souls.
As he prayed thus, Sawaichi entirely
forgot his own ailments and agonies,
and pitied his beautiful young wife beside him, who with him had to share
in physical as well as mental sufferings.
The more he thought of her love and
devotion for him ,a cripple with little
hope in life, the more intense grew his
sympathy for her. Sawaichi told his
wife he would remain in the temple
ground and keep up his prayer until
it was fulfilled, and he persuaded her to
return home on an errand. While she
was thus gone he offered his last prayer,
which was all on her behalf and for
her happiness during the rest of her life,
and creeping by the side of a precipice
nearby threw himself over.
O'Sato's surprise and sorrow in not
finding her husband upon her return
were so great that without a moment's
hesitation she followed her husband's
path and destiny.
At the depth of a great overhanging
cliff where the bodies of a faithful
couple lay, the light of mercy shone and
by the virtue of Kan-non they revived.
Sawaichi now saw beautiful young
O'Sato and she could smile into the eyes
of Sawaichi, and they lived long in happiness again.
* * * * *
Geisha girls are educated by similar
songs which they sing accompanied by
the samisen. The moral these songs
teach may not live with the changing
time, but the faith and the spirit shall
remain with the ages.
How dared Princess Shizuka, the
beautiful consort of Yoshitsune, when
she became a captive of Toritomo, to
sing for the love of her fugitive hus-
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band and to give prayer for his recovery
to power, in defiance of Yoritomo's
power and displeasure, and at the risk
of her own life ? Shizuka is an idol of
all geisha girls.
Geisha girls have shared in the success of the Meiji Restoration, inwardly
helping the cause of patriots, through
their chivalrous spirit which still exists
to some extent in their class. For this
reason they are not mere entertainers
or singers or dancers ; still less the creature of money and lust as so often
thought of. 'These apply of course to
typical geisha girls who I admit are few
and far between.
* * * * *
At the village of Maiko near the port
of bustling Kobe, lives a family by the
name of K—. During my recent New
Year visit to Kobe I chanced to make
the acquaintance of this family. The
master of the house, Mr. K—, was
once wealthy and married quite young
and had a daughter born shortly before
his wilfe's death.
Mr. K— fell in love with a geisha
after some years and married her
against the wishes of his parents and
relatives. The bride was then only
twenty-two years old, living at Yanagihara, and her beauty and accomplishments were widely known.
It was not quite half a year after her
marriage that Mr. K— was going
daily to a hospital with an eye trouble.
Within another three months the husband lost his sight completely.
With father and mother-in-law, a stepchild and a blind husband in the family.
which soon began to decline from its
former prosperous condition, it was soon
whispered around that the young wife
could not bear, the burden and would
soon desert her charges.
For the last twenty years this wife,
who had led the apparently easy life of
dreams before she married Mr. K—,
395
has fought against all kinds of odds to
maintain her family, which has since
grown in size, and to help the crippled
husband day and night while trying to
keep in the good graces of an aged
mother-in-law. In a word, she has sacrificed her own life and pleasure for the
sake of the family, according to the testimony of her husband's first daughter.
Today, to her mother-in-law, she is
the dearest in heart, the husband places
his utmost confidence in her, the daughter thinks more of her than she does
of her own mother. The house stands
because of her incessant and tireless battle against odds. The relatives once opposed to her are now all her admirers,
and neighbors take her as a good example of womanhood. She is a heroine
who understands the real culture of a
true geisha of the old school. Because
of these occasional manifestations of
chivalrous spirit and the womanly virtue
ingrained in this class of women geisha
girls are not entirely despised, as they
might otherwise be.
Miss K—, the first daughter of Mr.
K—, also determined to sacrifice her
own happiness and to follow her mother's
former profession in order to support
her blind father and to lighten the burden of her helpless step-mother. She
is now living in Kobe where I met her
the other New Year's evening, and she
it is who sang me the story of Sawaichi
and O'Sato. She is like a lotus blooming pure and white in a muddy water.
Her song will remain with me :
Matsu-kaze ya
Tsuki ni Akashi no
Yo-arashi ni
Shima kakure yuku
Mura chidori
Omowase burina
Sute 'obune.
—Utazawa.
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THE MID-PACIFIC
An International Pacific
Chamber of Commerce
Suggestions of the Seattle Foreign Trade Club
The Foreign Trade Club of San Francisco was the first Pacific Coast organization of its kind to cooperate with the
Pan-Pacific Union, and through its efforts was organized the San Francisco
Pan-Pacific Club. Awakened by the example of San Francisco, the Foreign
Trade Club of Seattle has just launched
a movement to create a Pacific International Chamber of Commerce, and this
will have the hearty co-operation of the
Pan-Pacific Union, as well as of all corresponding bodies ; in fact, the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce took steps
toward such a kindred project some time
ago. The time now seems opportune.
A number of Chambers of Commerce
in Pacific lands are now affiliated with
the Pan-Pacific Union, and when the
Pan-Pacific Conference is held in Honolulu, at the Cross-roads of the Ocean, this
department might well be forwarded by
the Foreign Trade Clubs, with the progressive Seattle body taking the lead .
Secretary of the Interior Franklin K.
Lane has announced his belief that the
time for a Pan-Pacific conference at the
Cross-roads of the Ocean, is immediately
after peace is declared, but in the meantime much preliminary work is to be done.
San Francisco and the Northwest have
awakened to the power behind the PanPacific idea. Long ago Australia.
gan to recognize this potential power
and has consistently worked toward its
realization for more than a decade. It
was the Prime Minister of Australia who
promulgated a Monroe Doctrine for the
Pacific. If there is to be such a doctrine applied to the Pacific then every
land and commercial body of the Great
Ocean is interested, and especially are
the Foreign Trade bodies and the Chambers of Commerce, for a Monroe Doc-
trine to be effective on the Pacific must
be upheld by the people of the Pacific.
It is fitting that the great Northwest
should take a leading part in the revival
of American trade on the Pacific, and
even in the creation of an entirely new
commercial era, for that is what it must
be. A Pacific International Chamber of
Commerce that will aid and direct in
the development of the trade and commerce of all Pacific lands will create
new and greater markets for the output
of the Northwest as well as for the immense carrying trade overland through
this region tributary to the Puget Sound
ports. Inconceivable in magnitude is the
great new commerce that is upon us, inconceivable at least to the men of this
decade, who have not yet studied the
potential possibilities of the after-war
commerce of the Pacific that is to be.
These Pacific lands and islands must
feed the world, and here live and thrive
two-thirds of the world's population ; it
is the raising of their standard of living
that is to enrich such sections of the
Pan-Pacific area as the Northwest country and California.
The Foreign Trade Clubs of Seattle
and San Francisco are doing some of
the most valuable pioneer work ever
attempted in America, they are educating the people up to the possibilities of
Pan-Pacific commerce. All power to the
effort of the Foreign Trade Club of Seattle to create a Pacific International
Chamber of Commerce ; Honolulu, at the
Cross-roads of the Pacific, where the
commercial leaders from the lands about
our ocean sooner or later find their way,
offers her services in this cause, and the
Pan-Pacific Union tenders her co-operation.
Advertising Section
The Pacific Mail Steamship Co.
The S.S. "Colombia" en route.
Some of the features for the safety and
The Pacific Mail Steamship Company
has not only resumed its service between pleasure of passengers on these Pacific
San Francisco via Honolulu to Japan, Ocean greyhounds are: wireless telegraphy
China and the Philippines, but it is carry- and daily newspapers, watertight bulking the American flag by its direct steamers heads, double bottoms, bilge keels, oil
to India and to the Latin American Coast burners (no smoke or dirt), single rooms
as far South as Panama, with connections and rooms with two beds, two washstands
beyond, all along the Pacific South Amer- in each room, as well as large clothes'
lockers, electric fans and electric reading
ican coast and with Europe.
The Pacific Mail Steamship Company lights for each bed, spacious decks, swimoperates indeed the one "American Round ming tank, Filipino band, veranda cafe,
the Pacific Line" of comfortable and mod- beautiful dining saloons, large and small
tables, and every comfort of modern ocean
ern steamers.
The vessels of the Pacific Mail Steam- travel with the best cuisine on the Pacific.
ship Company are all splendid passenger
The general offices of the Pacific Mail
ships of 14,000 tons American registry. Steamship Co. are at 508 California
The new sister ships, "Colombia," "Ecua- Street, San Francisco, California, with
or," and "Venezuela" constitute the service branch offices at Honolulu, Hongkong,
to Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai and Manila,
Manila and Hongkong.
while agencies and sub-agencies exist in
The "Colusa" and the "Santa Cruz" are almost every Pacific port, in all of the
the pioneers in the service to Singapore, large cities of America and the rest of
Calcutta and Colombo via Manila.
the world.
A fleet of steamers maintains the service
George J. Baldwin, President of the
between San Francisco, Mexico, Central Pacific Mail Steamship Company is located
American ports and Panama.
at 120 Broadway, New York City, N. Y.;
For the Tourist or Shipper to almost J. H. Rosseter, Vice-President and Genany part of the Pacific, the new American
eral Manager ; W. A. Young, Jr., General
vessels of the rejuvenated Pacific Mail
Steamship Company offer inducements that Passenger Agent, at 508 California street,
San Francisco, California.
are not being overlooked.
2
THE MID-PACIFIC
The T. K. K. Trips to Hawaii and the Orient
I
Welcoming a T. K. K. Liner.
The United States government now permits the palatial liners of the T. K. K.
(Toyo Kisen Kaisha) to carry passengers back and forth between San Francisco and
Hawaii. The Honolulu Chamber of Commerce has raised a special fund of $50,000
to be used immediately in advertising Hawaii's attractions and allurements for those
who need rest or who have earned recreation. The T. K. K. will occupy as its Honolulu office the rooms vacated for it by the Hawaii Promotion Committee, in the
Alexander Young Building on Bishop Street. The head office is in Tokyo and the
San Francisco office at 625 Market Street.
The two funnels of the T. K. K. Liner dominate this shipping scene.
THE MID-PACIFIC
3
•••••■••••■•M•■•■■•••••••••••■••••■••■••■•••••■■•••••••■■
The Foreign Trade Club of San Francisco
W. H. Haigue, Secretary, (Monadnock Building, San Francisco)
The Foreign
Trade Club of
S a n Francisco
meets every
Wednesday evening in the lecture
hall of the Merchants Exchange
Building, to listen to some distinguished overseas speaker, and
to study the ethics
of foreign export.
Visitors to San
Francisco are invited to the lectures.
Orient Building
Thomas W.
Simmons & Co.,
with head offices on the ground floor at
240 California Street, is represented in the
Foreign Trade Club by its vice-president,
F. S. Douglas. This very important firm
of International Merchants has branch
houses in New York, Seattle, and Hongkong. Specializing as it does in Oriental
products, it has its own representatives in
every large city from Yokohama, Japan, to
Sourabaya, Java, and Bambok in Burmah.
All codes used ; cable address, "Simmons,
San Francisco."
The President of the Foreign Trade
Club is William H. Hammer, of the Shipping and Commission firm of Hammer and
Company, 310 Clay street (Phone Sutter
54). Visitors to the Commercial Muesum
in the Monadnock Building may reach this
and other Foreign Trade Club firms by
phone, free service being supplied.
Mr. Ben C. Daily, of the Foreign Trade
Club, is the representative in San Francisco
of the Overseas Shipping Company, his
office being in the Merchants Exchange
Building (Phone Sutter 4459). This concern reserves space on Pacific vessels for
its customers at lowest rates, is efficient, and
handles all details in connection with applications for Government Export licenses.
Other offices at 327 La Salle St., Chicago ;
17 Battery Place, New York; L. C. Smith
Bldg., Seattle. Across-the-seas correspondents invited to write San Francisco office.
Banking and foreign trade go hand-inhand. San Francisco boasts of some of
the most interesting and historic banks in
America. The Wells-Fargo National
Bank is perhaps the best known of these.
It was founded in 1852, a pioneer of the
Gold days, with a present capital and surplus of $11,000,000 and assets of $75,000,000. It has been foremost in building up
the financial and business prestige of San
Francisco, and has spread facilities for
trade across the Pacific. Deposits of visitors
and correspondence are invited, exchange is
issued, collections and payments effected,
and safe deposit boxes provided.
The Pacific American Trading Company—Frank H. Stone, manager—offices in
the Santa Marina Bldg., 112 Market St.,
San Francisco, and representatives in all
countries. C. I. F. quotations given and
samples sent whenever practical, free. The
motto of this house is "Service."
Mr. H. W. Friesleben, of the Foreign
Department of the Pacific Sanitary Manufacturing Company-67, New Montgomery street, San Francisco—is the firm
representative in the Foreign Trade Club.
His firm has installed "Pacific" plumbing
in many of the public schools of San Francisco and California, and has trade relations with every part of the Pacific.
The home office of the Sperry Flour
Company is in the Orient Building, 332
Pine street, San Francisco, the headquarters of Pan-Pacific Trade. A Sperry Product, whether it be flour or cereal, will
earn appreciation around the Pacific, because everything that men, method, and
modern machinery can do to make it
worthy of favor has been done before it
appears on the grocer's shelves.
The members of the Associated Manufacturers Importing Company, 883 Market
street, have been established in business in
San Francisco since 1857. They specialize
in hardware, tools and metals. Imports
and exports of all raw or manufactured
products that amount to a large volume,
undertaken. This company has large resources, good people to act as Americar
Buying Agents for Overseas Merchants.
4
THE MID-PACIFIC
Honolulu from the Trolley Car
Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Company.
You may take the electric tram as you
step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and
for five cents ride for hours—if you wish
to take transfers—to almost every part
of this beautiful city and its suburbs.
There appeared in the Mid-Pacific
Magazine for January, 1915, an article
telling of a hundred sights to be seen
from the street cars.
At one end of the King street car line
is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill,
from which may be seen the cane lands and
rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in
the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter
is the Bishop Museum, having the most remarkable Polynesian collection in the
world. At the other end of the line is
Kapiolani Park, a beautiful tropical garden,
in which is located the famous aquarium of
Hawaiian fish (conducted by this Company) rivaled only by the aquarium in
Naples.
Transfers are given to branch lines
penetrating several of the wonderfully
beautiful mountain valleys behind Honolulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki
on the heights behind Diamond Head,
which is now a great fortress; in fact,
the entire day may be spent with profit on
the car lines. At Waikiki often may be
seen from the cars men and boys disporting
themselves on their surfboards, as they
come in standing before the waves on these
little bits of wood.
The cars in Honolulu are all open, for
the temperature never goes below 68 degrees, nor does it rise above 85 degrees,
and there is always a gentle trade wind
stirring.
When Honolulu was ready for her
electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid
Transit & Land Co. completed the most
perfect system of its kind in the world,
and it is always a delight to ride smoothly
over its lines.
It is but twenty minutes by car to Waikiki beach and but five minues longer, by
the same car, to the wonderful aquarium
in Kapiolani Park.
THE MID-PACIFIC
5
•1111.•••M•fillIK.
The Island of Maui
\
HONOL U LU NORMAE. SCH OOL
s can
id
PRIPARED AND COP‘i
!Lin T POPE.
MAUI
Area in 5tatute Srivare Dries 728
Length 48 titled. Breadth 30110 e s
trtighest Elevation. too;57 Feet
Lint5les1 EXtinai Crater in thelnrcrid
:Population over Z5. oo
'114tance from Honolulu 7Z titles
Eleven S.gor Plantations
_Sugar rap far
to4-772Tp7.4
Map by courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd.
The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd.,
(known by everyone as "A. & B.") is
looked upon as one of the most progressive
American corporations in Hawaii.
Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents
for the largest sugar plantation of the Hawaiian Islands and second largest in the
world, namely, the Hawaiian Commercial
and Sugar Company at Puunene, Maui.
They are also agents for many other plantations and concerns of the Islands, among
which are the Haiku Sugar Company, Paia
Plantation, Maui Agricultural Company,
Hawaiian Sugar Company, McBryde Sugar
Company, Ltd., Kahului Railroad Company, Kauai Railroad Company, Ltd.,
and Honolua Ranch.
This firm ships a larger proportion of the
total sugar crop of the Hawaiian Islands
than any other agency.
In addition to their extensive sugar plantations, they are also agents for the following well-known and strong insurance companies: Springfield Fire & Marine Ins.,
Co, American Cental Insurance Co., The
Home Insurance Co. of New York, The
New Zealand Insurance Co., General A. F.
& L. Assurance Corporation, German
Alliance Insurance Association, Switzerland Marine Insurance Co., Ltd.
The officers of this large and progressive
firm, all of whom are staunch supporters of
the Pan-Pacific and other movements which
are for the good of Hawaii, are as follows:
J. P. Cooke
President
W. M. Alexander
First Vice-Pres.
J. R. Galt
Second Vice-Pres.
W. 0. Smith
Third Vice-Pres.
John Waterhouse
Treasurer
John Guild
Secretary
H. A. Baldwin, F. C. Atherton, A. L.
Castle and C. R. Hemenway, directors.
Besides the home office in the Stangenwald Building, Honolulu, Alexander &
Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices in
Seattle, in the Melhorn Building; in New
York at 82 Wall St., and in the Alaska
Commercial Building, San Francisco.
6
THE MID-PACIFIC
The Island of Kauai
TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN.
The Matson Steam Navigation Co.,
maintaining the premier ferry service between Honolulu and San Francisco, and
the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining palatial ocean greyhound service between San
Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu,
have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle &
Cooke, Ltd.
This, one of the oldest firms in Honolulu, occupies a spacious building at the
corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Honolulu. The ground floor is used as local
passenger and freight offices of the Toyo
Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam
Navigation Company. The adjoining offices are used by the firm for their business as sugar facturs and insurance agents;
Phone 1251.
Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for
many of the plantations throughout Hawaii, and here may be secured much varied
information. Here also the tourist may secure in the folder racks, booklets and pamphlets descriptive of almost every part of
the great ocean.
Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd.
OLULU NORMIS000
gin;!
I
mina
hAUA$
_Arai, in Statieto S quare
7
-AV. Kits At zs.,
glion.d Two
EloOotion 52 50 Foe
04tonsio from
t31`1■1,, s.
Population ever
Pooplo '
41114t4 tittle Stior Plantain..
, Coo p for ■9a7, 7/ut;•c.
PREPititrD
WILL
THE MID-PACIFIC
FERTILIZING THE SOIL.
Millions of dollars are spent in Hawaii
fertilizing the cane and pineapple fields.
The Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Company, with extensive works and warehouses
in Honolulu, imports from every part of
the Globe the many ship loads of ammonia,
nitrates, potash, sulphur and guano that go
to make the special fertilizers needed for the
varied soils and conditions of the islands.
Its chemists test the soils and then give the
recipe for the particular blend of fertilizer
that is needed.
This great industry is one of the results
of successful sugar planting in Hawaii, and
without fertilizing, sugar growing in the
Hawaiian Islands could not be successful.
This company began operations in Midway Islands years ago, finally exhausting its
guano beds, but securing others.
7
8
THE MID-PACIFIC
Honolulu home of the American Factors Co., Ltd. (Exterior)
Interior.
The Home Building in Honolulu of the American Factors Co., Ltd.
Plantation Agents and Wholesale Merchants
THE MID-PACIFIC
9
Electric Lighting in Honolulu
The general offices on King Street.
THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC CO.
I
N HONOLULU electricity costs
eight cents per kilowatt, for the
first two kilowatts per month, per
lamp, and six cents thereafter. From
the Hawaiian Electric Company plant,
power is furnished to the pineapple canneries (the largest canneries in the
world) to the extent of seven hundred
horse power, with another two hundred
and fifty horse power to the Federal
Wireless Station, fifteen miles distant,
besides current for lighting all private
residences in Honolulu, as well as for
operating its own extensive ice plant.
A line has also been built to furnish
light and power to the great army post
of Schofield Barracks, twenty miles distant from Honolulu.
The power house and ice plant.
10
1
THE MID-PACIFIC
The Trust Company in Hawaii
Honolulu was one of the first cities to
adopt the idea of the Trust Company. In
1852 Henry Waterhouse began business in
Honolulu, and just fifty years later the
name 9f his firm was changed to the "Henry
Waterhouse Trust Company" and this
very successful concern continues to occupy
the ground floor of the Campbell Block on
Fort and Merchant streets. Here was
born the first commercial wireless system
in the world—that of Hawaii. There are
spacious vaults for valuable papers, insurance departments, real estate features, and
every department common to the up-to-date
Trust Company. The Company is also a
member of the Honolulu Stock and Bond
Exchange.
Located in the heart of the business center of Honolulu, here stock and bonds are
exchanged, insurance is issued and every
kind of real estate handled, and here, too, is
the home of the Kaimuki Land Co., and
the agency for the Volcano House at the
Crater of Kilauea.
The Trent Trust Company, though a
comparatively young organization, is
one of the most popular financial institutions in the Islands. Organized in
1907, it has already doubled its capitalization to $100,000. According to
the last statement its capital undivided
surplus amounted to $188,788.51, and
its gross assets to $538,067.55.
The company is efficiently organized
to handle the work of Manager of Estates, Executor, Fiduciary Agent, and
Agent for Non-Residents. It has the
following departments : Trusts, Investments, Real Estate, Rents, Insurance,
and Safe Deposit.
The Trent Trust's offices are located
on the ground floor of 921 Fort Street,
the principal business thoroughfare of
Honolulu.
THE MID-PACIFIC
11
The Catton, Neill Building, Honolulu. Also the home of the General Electric Co.
in Hawaii.
Honolulu is known around the world
for the manufacture of sugar mill machinery. Much of this is made by Catton,
Neill & Co., Ltd., Engineers, who build
and erect sugar mill machinery. The
works are on South Street, Honolulu, while
the offices and salesrooms are located .in a
new concrete building on Alakea and Queen
streets, erected recently for this purpose.
Here are seen the displays of the General
Electric Co., of which Catton, Neill &
Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian agents, as well as
for the leading gas engines, water wheels,
steam plows, pumps, condensers and tools
manufactured in the United States. This
is one of the oldest engineering firms in
Hawaii.
Half a century is an age in the life of
Honolulu. The first frame building is not
one hundred years old, and the first hardware store, that of E. 0. Hall & Son, Ltd.,
was not founded until the year 1850, but
since then, on the commanding corner of
Fort and King streets, it has remained the
premier hardware concern in Hawaii. The
entire three-story building is taken up
with extensive displays of every kind of
hardware. One floor, however, is given
over to crockery and kitchen utensils, while
in the basement even a ship might be fitted
out with its hardware, cordage, and roping
needs. This company is also agent for the
Sherwin-Williams house paints and represents many mainland hardware firms.
E. O. Hall & Son Building, Fort and King Streets.
12
THE MID-PACIFIC
HOME FERTILIZING.
The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company stores
its fertilizers in the largest concrete warehouse west of the Rockies. The works of
this company cover several acres near Honolulu. The ingredients are purchased in
shipload lots, and the formulas adopted by
the different plantations for their fertilizers
are made up at the works of the Hawaiian
Fertilizer Company. Their chemists analyze the soils and suggest the formulas.
For the small planter this company makes
special fertilizers, and the gardens of Honolulu • are kept beautiful by the use of a
special lawn fertilizer made by this company. Fertilizing alone has made Hawaii
the garden of the Pacific.
THE WORLD'S FIRST TELEPHONE EXCHANGE
The Mutual Telephone Company of So rapid was the increase of subscribers
Honolulu is the outgrowth of the first after the Automatic installation that it
house to house telephone system in the became necessary to build and equip two
world, installed in Honolulu in the late new exchanges, one in Kaimuki and the
seventies. This company has lately led other at Kalihi. Moreover the wireless
the world in telephone improvements, service to the other islands being under
was the first to install a commercial control of the Mutual Telephone Comwireless system of telegraphy (between pany, as well as the telephone systems
the Hawaiian Islands), and is preparing of the islands of Maui and Hawaii, it has
to link up its exchanges on the different become possible to send and receive mesislands of the group by wireless tele- sages between the islands by phone, and
phony, as soon as this mode of communi- even cable messages are usually sent out
cation is perfected.
over the phone before the official mesThe present Mutual Telephone Com- sage is delivered.
Australia sent a commission to
pany was incorporated in 1883 and used
the old manual switchboard until 19o9, Hawaii to study and report on the Honwhen it was reorganized and the Auto- olulu Automatic exchange, and has since
matic telephone system installed, which adopted the Automatic. At present the
has proved the most satisfactory of any Inter-Island Wireless system • is under
in the world, making it possible in cos- lease to the Federal Government, but
the Mutual Telephone Company is going
mopolitan Honolulu for the many men of ahead with its improvements of service
many Pacific races to call, each other on each of the three larger islands :
without having to strive with "Central." Oahu, Maui and Hawaii.
THE MID-PACIFIC
13
Banking in Honolulu
The First National Bank
of Hawaii at the corner of
Fort and King Streets, Honolulu. This bank is the depository in Hawaii of the
United States Government.
The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii,
the central bank of Honolulu, with a
capital, surplus and undivided profits
amounting to nearly a million and a half,
or more than the total of any other bank
in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own
magnificent building at the busiest business corner of Honolulu, Merchant and
Fort streets; has a savings department and
was organized in 1897.
The Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on
Fort Street, is an old established financial
institution. It draws on the principal parts
of the world, issues cable transfers, and
transacts a general banking business.
The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was
established August 17, 1858, and has occupied its premises on the corner of Merchant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877.
The operations of this Bank began with the
encouragement of the whaling business,
then the leading industry of the islands, and
the institution has ever been closely identified with the industrial and commercial
progress of the Islands. The partners in
the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr.
Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cockburn. On Dec. 31, 1917, the deposits with
this bank amounted to $12,282,428.73.
The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd.,
is the most recently incorporated Trust
Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders
are closely identified with the largest
business interests in the Territory. Its
directors and officers are men of ability,
integrity and high standing in the community. The Company was incorporated
in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000
fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated
doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1917,
the Capital of the Company was $200,000; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided
Profits $53,306.75. It conducts a trust
company business in all its various lines
with offices in the Stangenwald Building.
Merchant St., adjoining the Bank of
Hawaii.
THE MID-PACIFIC
14
RIMMING ROOFING
THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU.
Honolulu still relies for building material on the mainland. For many years
the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained
its own line of clipper schooners that
brought down lumber from Puget Sound
with which to "build Hawaii." Today
this firm occupies its own spacious block
on King Street, where every necessity needed for building the home is supplied. In
fact, often it is this firm that guarantees
the contractor, and also assures the owner
that his house will be well built and completed on time. Things are done on a large
scale in Hawaii ; so it is that one firm
undertakes to supply material from the
breaking of ground until the last coat of
paint is put on the completed building. A
spacious and splendidly equipped hardware
department is one of the features of Lewers
& Cooke's establishment.
THE MID-PACIFIC
15
The Tourist's Hawaii
.
■■■■•••■•■■•■■■■•INM
I
■ •■•■
The Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as Moana and Seaside
Hotels).
The Von Hamm-Young Co., Importers,
Machinery Merchants, and leading automobile dealers, have their offices and store
in the Alexander Young Building, at the
corner of King and Bishop Streets, and
their magnificent automobile salesroom and
garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea
street. Here one may find almost anything. Phone No. 4901.
The Thompson Optical Institute is
just what its name implies, and occupying a location on Hotel Street opposite
Bishop Park and the Young Hotel, it
is convenient to all. Here the eye is
tested and here all kinds of lenses are
ground and repaired, for the Thompson
Optical Institute is the most complete
place of its kind in Hawaii. The glasses
of visitors are quickly repaired, and those
of residents kept in order.
The Pacific Engineering Company,
Ltd., with spacious quarters in the Yokohama Specie Bank Building, Honolulu,
are engineers and constructors of buildings of every kind, from the smallest private residences to the large and imposing
business blocks. Being made up of some
of the most prominent men in the Islands
it is not surprising that it secures some
of the large and important contracts.
The Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu
was the work of this firm.
Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937.
16
THE MID-PACIFIC
Round About Honolulu
Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King
Streets, is the actual center of life and
activity in Honolulu. Here at the intersection of the tram lines, the shoppers,
business men, and tourists await their cars,
chatting at the open soda fountain, that is
the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here
the tourist and stranger is advised as to
the sights of the city, and supplied with
any perfumes, candies or drugs he may
need during his stay. Chambers Drug
Store is one of the institutions of Honolulu. Phone No. 1291.
The largest of the very fashionable
shops in the Alexander Young Building,
occupying the very central portion, is that
of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the
ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest
design is kept in stock. Every kind of
paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as
well as printers' and binders' supplies.
There are musical instruments of every
kind in stock, even to organs and pianos,
and the Angelus Player Piano and this
concern is constantly adding new features
and new stock. The business man will
find his every need in the office supplied
by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a
call over the phone, and this is true also
of the fashionable society leader, whether
her needs are for a bridge party, a dance,
or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms
of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting.
Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street,
Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu.
Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh
from the oven, the delicious baker's bread
and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all
the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery
crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come
from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has
the most complete and up to date machinery and equipment in the territory.
"Maile" Australian butter from the
Metropolitan Meat Market on King
Street, stands at the head for flavor and
keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is
here you also get the tender meats and
fresh vegetables of which an abundant
supply is always on hand. Heilbron &
Louis, proprietors, have built up a wonderful business until now the Metropolitan
Meat Market is the central and popular
market place of Honolulu. Phone 3445.
Honolulu is so healthy that people don't
usually die there, but when they do they
phone in advance to Henry H. Williams,
1146 Fort street, phone number 1408,
and he arranges the after details. If you
are a tourist and wish to be interred in
■
your own plot on the mainland, Williams
will embalm you; or he will arrange all
details for interment in Honolulu. Don't
leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any
other, but if you must, let your friends
talk it over with Williams.
Whatever you do, do not fail to visit
the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King
Street. Early morning is the best time for
this, when all the multi-colored fish of
Hawaiian waters are presented to view
and every nationality of the islands is on
parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the
leading spirit and founder of the Oahu
Fish Market, which is a Chinese institution of which the city is proud.
A monument to the pluck and energy of
Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the
City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer
and manager. This plant at Queen and
Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's
leading enterprises, doing a flourishing
lumber and mill business.
THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, opposite the Alexander Young, is the
one reasonably priced tourist restaurant.
Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian
singers and players, and .here at every
hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable
prices the delicacies of the season.
THE MID-PACIFIC
17
The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen
Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer
companies, and has also acquired the Honolulu Lava Brick Company. It is making
a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.
Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen
Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed
rock used in the construction of the modem building in Hawaii. They also maintain their own stables and drays. Draying
in Honolulu is an important business, and
Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line,
and keep drays of every size, sort and description for the use of those who require
them. They also conduct a rock crusher
and supply wood and coal.
With the wood that is used for building
in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen
Street, Phone 2105, have for generations
supplied the people of Honolulu and those
on the other islands ; also their buildings
and paints. Their office is on Queen St.,
near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building,
and their lumber yards extend right back
to the harbor front, where every kind of
hard and soft wood grown on the coast is
landed by the schooners that ply from
Puget Sound.
The City's great furniture store, that or
J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of
the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St.
Here the latest styles in home and office
furniture arriving constantly from San
Francisco are displayed on several spacious
floors. Phone No. 2111.
The leading music store in Hawaii is
on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom
Music Co. No home is complete in Honolulu without an ukulele,a piano and a Victor
talking machine. The Bergstrom Music
Company, with its big store on Fort Street,
will provide you with these—a Chickering,
a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a
tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage ; and
if you are a transient it will rent you a
piano. The Bergstrom Music Company,
phone 2331.
The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda
water. The Consolidated Soda Water
Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the
largest manufacturers of delightful soda
beverages in the Territory. Aerated waters
cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The
Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root
Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water
that is delicious, besides a score of other
flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a
bottle at any store.
San Francisco's newest hotel is the Plaza,
facing Union Square, Post and Stockton
streets. It has a capacity of 600 guests;
European plan, $1.50 to $5.00 a day;
American plan, $3.00 to $7.00 a day. There
are numerous combination sample rooms.
C. A. Gonder is the manager of the Hotel
Plaza Company.
The Hawaiian Fisheries Ltd. is proprietor of the Hawaiian Fisheries Market, Kekaulike street, near Queen street,
Honolulu. This company sets the pace
in conservation in 1Iawaii. It sells its fish
at low rates and cans any stirplus also
using the parts usually discarded as fertilizer. It is a company of Americans and
Japanese who work together along conservation lines.
18
THE MID-PACIFIC
Wonderful New Zealand
Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.
Scenically New Zealand is the world's
wonderland. There is no other place in
the world that offers such an aggregation of stupendous scenic wonders. The
West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are
in every way more magnificent and aweinspiring than are the fjords of Norway.
Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic
panorama of unrivalled beauty from end
to end.
Its hot springs and geysers in
the Rotorua district on the North Island
have no equal anywhere.
In this district the native Maoris still keep up
their ancient dances or haka haka, and
here may be seen the wonderfully carved
houses of the aboriginal New Zealanders. There are no more beautiful lakes
anywhere in the world than are the Cold
Lakes of the South Island, nestling as they
do among mountains that rise sheer ten
thousand feet. Among these mountains
are some of the largest and most scenic
glaciers in the world. In these Southern
Alps is Mt. Cook, more than twelve thousand feet high. On its slopes the Government has built a hotel to which there is a
motor car service.
New Zealand was the first country to
perfect the government tourist bureau.
She has built hotels and rest houses
throughout the Dominion for the benefit
of the tourist, for whom she has also
built splendid roads and wonderful
mountain tracks. New Zealand is
splendidly served by the Government
Railways, which sell the tourist for a
very low rate, a ticket that entitles him
to travel on any of the railways for from
one to two months. In the lifetime of
a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dunedin, New Zealand), a New Zealand
steamship company has been built up
that is today the fourth largest steamship company under the British flag, and
larger than any steamship company
owned in America, with her 100,000,000
million population, or in Japan with her
New Zealand is
50,000,000 population.
a land of wonders, and may be reached
from America by the Union Steamship
Co. boats from Vancouver, San Francisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steamship Co. also transfers passengers from
Sydney. The Government Tourist Bureau has commodious offices in Auckland and Wellington as well as the other
larger cities of New Zealand. Direct information and pamphlets may be secured
by writing to the New Zealand Government Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New
Zealand.
THE MID-PACIFIC
19
New South Wales
New South Wales is a veritable treasure ground for those in search of a healthful holiday. Its varied topography is responsible for a wealth and diversity of
Caves, ranking among the most marvel- '
lous of the world's phenomena, as well as
numberless resorts by mountain, valley,
lake, river and ocean, are easy of access
GOVERNMENT TOURIST BUREAU
Challis House, Sydney, N. S. W.
scenery. Its climate is ideal. The normal conditions throughout the year are
bright blue skies and sunny days.
Kosciusko, Australia's highest mountain, and the oldest known land surface
on the globe, with its endless opportunities for sport all the year round, Jenolan
from Sydney, and possess, in addition to
natural charm, elaborate tourist facilities.
Write for illustrated literature and
tourist information to Fred C. Covers,
Superintendent, Government Tourist
Bureau, Challis House, Sydney, N. S. W.
20
THE MID-PACIFIC
South Australia and Tasmania
SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
From San Francisco, Vancouver and
from Honolulu there are two lines of fast
steamships to Sydney, Australia.
From Sydney to Adelaide, South Australia, there is a direct railway line on
which concession fares are granted tourists
arriving from overseas, and no visitor to
the Australian Commonwealth can afford
to neglect visiting the southern central state
of Australia; for South Australia is the
TASMANIA.
Tasmania is one of the finest tourist resorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten
hours' run from the Australian mainland.
Between Launceston and Melbourne the
fastest turbine steamer in Australia runs
thrice weekly and there is a regular service
from Sydney to Hobart.
The island is a prolific orchard country
and has some of the finest fruit growing
tracts in the world. The climate is cooler
than the rest of Australia.
The lakes and rivers are nearly all
stocked with imported trout, which grow
to weights not reached by other parts of
Australia.
state of superb climate and unrivalled resources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the
South,' is the Capital, and there is a GovernThe Tasmanian Government deals diment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau,
rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the capwhere the tourist, investor, or settler is
ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the
given accurate information, guaranteed by
world—is the headquarters of the Tasmanthe government, and free to all. From
ian Government Tourist Department; and
Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river
the bureau will arrange for transport of
and motor excursions to almost every part
the visitor to any part of the island. A
of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted
shilling trip to a local resort is not too
through the magnificent mountain and
small for the Government Bureau to
pastoral scenery of South Australia. The
handle, neither is a tour of the whole islgovernment makes travel easy by a system
and too big. There is a branch office in
of coupon tickets and facilities for caring
Launceston performing the same funcfor the comfort of the tourist. Excursions
are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi- tions.
The Tasmanian Government has an upviduals or parties are made familiar with
the industrial resources, and the American to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William
as well as the Britisher is made welcome if Street, next door to the New Zealand Govhe cares to make South Australia his home. ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets,
The South Australian Intelligence and and information can be procured. The adTourist Bureau has its headquarters on dress of the Sydney office is 262 George
King William Street, Adelaide, and the St., and Tasmania also has its own offices
government has printed many illustrated in Bisbane and Perth.
For detailed information regarding Tasbooks and pamphlets describing the scenic
and industrial resources of the state. A mania, either as to travel or settlement,
postal card or letter to the Intelligence and enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. EmTourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Govbooks and information you may desire. ernment Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania.
THE MID-PACIFIC
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Two Prominent Corners in Honolulu I
IMMI.M.1••■••■■•••■••■•■•
THE CLARION
THE REGAL.
Occupying one of the most prominent
The Clarion is Honolulu's leading
corners in the shopping district of Hon- men's habberdashery, but makes a speolulu the Regal Shoe Store, at the corner cialty of Phoenix silk hose, the best in
of Fort and Hotel Streets, is a distinct the world, for men, women and children.
credit to the American progress in these Full fashion women's Phoenix stockings,
islands. The stock in this store has been as well as Phoenix silk stockings for
carefully selected.
men and children.
Hartie's Good Eats is synonymous in
Old Kona Coffee is considered by conHonolulu with the best there is to eat
noisseurs
to have a delicious flavor all
at the most moderate price. "Hartie's"
its
own,
and
is the real Hawaiian coffee.
on Union Street caters to a limited numThe
best
of
the
annual crop is secured
•
ber that can be perfectly served. Preand
aged
by
the
McChesney
Coffee Comsided over by a woman who supervises
pany
on
Merchant
Street,
Honolulu,
each dish, it is the daintiest and most
satisfying eating place in Honolulu, well phone 2717. Mail orders of pound to
patronized by both residents and tourists. five-pound sealed cans are packed with
the aged Kona Coffee and sent to friends
Jordan's, on Fort Street, is the store or customers on the mainland.
of bargains in silks, besides every kind
The Oahu Ice and Electric Company
of women's wear and notions. The store
supplies
the Army in Honolulu at a
has just been remodeled and the finest
display windows put in position, so that cheaper price than the United States Govthey have become THE attraction on the ernment can buy ice in Alaska. The
Waikiki side of Fort Street. There is works and cold storage rooms are in
usually a sale in progress, for this oldest the Kakaako district, but a phone messtore in Honolulu has become the most
sage to 1128 will answer every purpose,
enterprising and up-to-date under a new
management that is all energy and judg- as the company has its auto delivery
trucks.
ment.
THE MID-PACIFIC
22
••■••■•••••••••■-aN.M.•■■•■■■■■•••■■■
■■••••■■•■••••
Life In Honolulu
I
The Honolulu Military Academy, unsurpassed in its field, occupies splendid
buildings and many acres of ground at
Kaimuki. It possesses a battalion of
three companieS instructed by U. S.
Army officers. The Academy department consists of preparatory, senior and
junior high schools. Accredited courses
preparatory for West Point, Annapolis
and mainland colleges. Campus of go
acres. Major L. G. Blackman is president of the Honolulu Military Academy.
The Young Brothers have always
been the purveyors . of equipment for
shark hunting in the waters about Honolulu. They have special boats built for
tuna fishing, and small launches for flying-fish shooting. The Hawaii Promotion Committee will arrange for fishing
excursions, or this may be done by
phoning directly to The Young Bros.,
Limited, 3328. This company is engaged also in Towing and Freighting.
The Quality Inn on Hotel Street,
near Fort, is aptly named, not quite a
restaurant, it serves dainty lunches and
afternoon teas as well as light breakfasts:
Its candies and soft drinks are the best,
and dealing directly with Rawley's
Dairy, its ice cream, eggs and milks are
pure and fresh almost hourly. For the
shopper there is no more enticing cafe
in Honolulu than the Quality Inn.
Among the very best home hotels in
Honolulu, the Davenport on Davenport
Place is in the exclusive Punahou district, in a situation ideal for the visitor
to the Islands. The rates are two dollars and a half a day, or special monthly
rates. The Davenport is under the man-
agement of Miss Jessie Rae, whose experience in London and America at the
head of health sanitariums particularly
fits her for the successful management of
a home hotel catering to the dainty.
The Home of Linens in Honolulu is
maintained at the establishment of Fernandes and Correa, formerly Whitney
and Marsh, in the very center of the
shopping district on Fort Street. This is
the foremost children's and ladies' furnishing house in Hawaii.
Under a new and progressive management this well - known house is
extending its usefulness, still making,
'however, a specialty of fine lingerie and
children's clothing. Matrons find every
style in fashionable wear brought direct
from Paris and New York. It is here,
too, that the Ladies' Home Journal patterns are kept in stock. Fernandes &
Correa make a specialty of providing
for what you wish, but it is best to spend
a little time examining the splendid exhibit of linens that is always maintained
in the Fernandes & Correa establishment.
Greenbaugh, James & Co., Ltd., Commission Merchants and Merchandise
Brokers, at Merchant and Alakea Sts.,
Honolulu, have had an experience of ten
years in Hawaii, and now this firm contemplates branching out as a Pan-Pacific
trading concern, bringing the wares for
which it has agencies to Hawaii from
every part of the United States, ready
on cable order to ship directly to any
part of the Pacific.
Stevedoring in Honolulu is attended
to by the firm of McCabe, Hamilton and
Renny Co., Ltd., 20 South Queen Street.
Men of almost every Pacific race are
employed by this firm, and the men of
each race seem fitted for some particular
part of the work, so that quick (and efficient is the loading and unloading of
vessels in Honolulu.
THE MID-PACIFIC
r
■■•■■•■•
■••■•■•
23
■
Honolulu
for
the
Tourist
11•••••■■•■■•••■■■■■■•■••••••■•••■•
"Jeffs" is the word most familiar to
every society leader in Honolulu. From
the start "Jeffs" took its place as the
high class woman's outfitter in Hawaii.
The large spacious store at Beretania
and Fort streets lends itself splendidly
to the displays direct, even now, from
Paris as well as from New York.
Home designs are a specialty at
"Jeffs" It was "Jeffs" design for the
Waikiki bathing suit that was adjudged
by the vote of the people to be the prettiest and most suitable bathing suit for
the tropics.
Not only are the leaders of fashion in
Hawaii outfitted at "Jeffs" but tourists
and visitors quickly find their way to this
most interesting exhibition of the latest
fashion models of the American metropolis.
The prices at "Jeffs" are in accord
with war time purses. This house has its
head office at I170 Broadway, New
York, and the Honolulu branch is the distributing center for the entire Pacific.
The Milton Realty Company, at 816
Fort street, phone 4899, is a vigorous
concern dealing in real estate, investments and loans. Its officers have been
connected for years with the leading
Trust Companies of Honolulu, or with
similar concerns on the mainland, and
with the friendly business connections
that this experience insures the firm is
making rapid progress toward a front
place in its line of work in Hawaii.
If you have films, or need supplies,
The Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak
Headquarters, Fort Street, develops and
prints for tourists within a few hours.
All photo supplies, films, film packs,
plates, cameras, island scenes, photographs, etc., always in stock. Developing 4x5 plates or film packs, 70 cents a
dozen ; roll films, 6o cents a dozen; printing, 70 cents. Fresh films packed in
handy sealed tins for use in the tropics
without extra charge.
One hardly realizes the immense resources of the grocery store of Henry
May & Co., in the Boston Block on Fort
street, unless one spends a couple of
hours taking stock of the domestic and
imported eatables and drinkables there
sold. Not only the largest grocery
store in the Territory, but the one enjoying the finest trade, Henry May & Co.
are righly called "The Housekeepers'
Ally"—as housewives have learned to depend on everything this firm sells. They
make a specialty of fine. Kona (native)
Coffee and have installed a gas roaster
and coffee mill to make this pro'duct
ready for the customer. Every steamer
brings fresh supplies from the mainland
for customers—many of whom have
traded with Henry May & Co. for decades, the firm being now more than
sixty years in business.
The oldest established Dry Goods
House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situated
of Hotel Street near Fort. For over a
quarter of a century this store has held
an enviable reputation for high-class
merchandise. The beautiful court dresses
worn at the receptions and balls in the
days of the Hawaiian Monarchy were
made by this firm. Then, as now, Sachs'
was the rendezvous for ladies who desired the very best in Silks and Dress
Fabrics, Tapestries, Draperies, Linens,
Laces and Millinery.
"The Blaisdell" is the newest and most
up-to-date hotel in Honolulu. It is run
on the European plan, being situated in
the heart of the city, (Fort Street and
Chaplain Lane). It is near all the downtown clubs, cafes, and restaurants. The •
rates are moderate — running water in
every room. Public baths as wall as the
private, have hot and cold water. Telephones in all the rooms, elevator and
pleasant lanais.
24
THE MID-PACIFIC
Progressive Honolulu
THE LIBERTY HOUSE
The Liberty House succeeds the firm
of B. F. Ehlers & Co., which was established in Honolulu as far back at 1852.
growing from small beginnings to become the largest dry goods store in Hawaii. After an honored career under
the old name it bore for sixty-five years,
on July 4th, 1918, the name was changed
to The Liberty House, and under this
title in future will be known Hawaii's
pioneer dry goods house.
The Liberty House is in fact a department of the American Factors Co.,
Ltd. It condugs the retail dry goods
business of this concern and being backed
by one of the greatest financial powers
in Hawaii, it can afford to carry the
largest stock and variety of dry goods
in the territory.
Recently The Liberty House has been
reconstructed; its spacious windows on
Fort Street, really extensive stages, are
used not only for remarkable displays of
dry goods and fashions, but also for
patriotic displays, dioramas of the war's
progress, or realistic settings illustratmg
the actual work of the Red Cross nurses
on the field. War Posters sent from the
Pan-American to the Pan-Pacific UniOn
are displayed here as are exhibits from
the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, so
that everyone stops at The Liberty
House.
The people of Hawaii know The Lib
erty House through all its various floors
and departments, it is the first place to
attract visitors. This firm makes a
specialty of ladies' apparel and of bringing the latest fashions to Hawaii.
The year round silk and woolen suits,
skirts, waists and all the wearing apparel
of women are rushed through at frequent intervals from New York by Wells
Fargo Express, being only twelve to
fourteen days in transit, so that the fashions on Fort Street are only a few days
behind those of Broadway.
THE B. F. DILLINGHAM CO., LTD.,
The Insurance Department of The B.
F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., represents all
lines of insurance, being agents for a
number of the best and most reliable insurance companies in America.
Few there are in all America who have
not had friends and relatives benefitted
through policies in the Aetna Life Insurance Company, and affiliated companies, the Aetna Casualty and Surety
Co. and the Automobile Insurance Co. of
Hartford, Conn. These insure you in
case of accident, ill health, liability and
even workingmen's compensation, while
your automobile is totally insured against
fire, theft, collision, loss of use or damage of any kind to any part of the machine.
In the matter of life insurance the B.
F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., has arranged to
offer policies in the safest and surest
American concerns, among those in
which it offers excellent policies are the
West Coast San Francisco Iife Insurance
Co. and the Providence-Washington Insurance Co.
In fire insurance, the Hartford, Conn.,
is perhaps the best known of American
fire insurance companies, certainly it is
one of the most solid and reliabe, as is
the Proenix Fire Insurance Co., both of
which concerns the B. F. Dillingham Co.,
Ltd., represents in Hawaii.
Life, fire and every kind of property
insurance is underwritten by the B. F.
Dillingham Co., Ltd. A generous portion
of its office space in the Stangenwald
Building on Merchant St., Honolulu, is
given over to the insurance department;
friends of the firm are invited to visit or
to ask for rates or information when considering the placing of any kind of insurance.
The Hands-Aroundthe=Pacific Movement
THE PAN-PACIFIC CLUBS are local organizations, affiliated with the PanPacific UNION, but governing themselves in each community. Many of these take
the form of weekly luncheon clubs that entertain visitors and speakers from Pacific
lands — the different clubs about the Pacific notifying one another of the proposed
visits of distinguished men who have Pan-Pacific messages to deliver.
THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION is an organization representing Governments of
Pacific lands, and with which are affiliated Chambers of Commerce, and kindred
bodies, working for the advancement of Pacific States and Communities, and a greater
co-operation among and between the people of all races in Pacific lands.
The Pan-Pacific Union is incorporated with an International Board of
Trustees, representing every race and nation of the Pacific.
The trustees may be added to or replaced by appointed representatives of
the different countries co-operating in the Pan-Pacific Union. The following
are the main objects set forth in the charter of the Pan-Pacific Union:
1. To call in conference delegates from all Pacific peoples for the purpose of discussing and furthering the interests common to Pacific nations.
2. To maintain in Hawaii and other Pacific lands bureaus of information
and education concerning matters of interest to the people of the Pacific, and to
disseminate to the world information of every kind of progress and opportunity in Pacific lands, and to promote the comfort and interests of all visitors.
3. To aid and assist those in all Pacific communities to better understand
each other, and to work together for the furtherance of the best interests of the
land of their adoption, and, through them, to spread abroad about the Pacific
the friendly spirit of inter-racial co-operation.
4. To assist and to aid the different races in lands of the Pacific to cooperate in local fairs, to raise produce, and to create home manufactured goods.
5. To own real estate, erect buildings needed for housing exhibits ; provided and maintained by the respective local committees.
6. To maintain a Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, and Art Gallery.
7. To create dioramas, gather exhibits, books and other Pan-Pacific material of educational or instructive value.
8. To promote and conduct a Pan-Pacific Exposition of the handicrafts
of the Pacific peoples, of their works of art, and scenic dioramas of the most
beautiful bits of Pacific lands, or illustrating great Pacific industries.
9. To establish and maintain a permanent college and "clearing house"
of information (printed and otherwise) concerning the lands, commerce, peoples,
and trade opportunities in countries of the Pacific, creating libraries of commercial knowledge, and training men in this commercial knowledge of Pacific lands.
10. To secure the co-operation and support of Federal and State governments, chambers of commerce, city governments, and of individuals.
11. To enlist for this work of publicity in behalf of Alaska, the Territory
of Hawaii, and the Philippines, Federal aid and financial support, as well as similar
co-operation and support from all Pacific governments.
12. To bring all nations and peoples about the Pacific Ocean into closer
friendly and commercial contact and relationship.
THE PAN-PACIFIC ASSOCIATION is an organization allied with the PANPACIFIC UNION, and in which membership is open to anyone who is in sympathy
with Pan-Pacific endeavor, and the creation of a better knowledge in the world at
large of the advantages Pacific lands have to offer.
APPLICATION FOR MEMBERSHIP.
To the Secretary, Pan-Pacific Association, Honolulu, Hawaii.
I desire membership for one year in the "Pan-Pacific Association," with
subscription to the "Mid-Pacific Magazine." I enclose $2.50, payment in full.
(Name)
(Address)
The Oahu Railway practically encircles the Island of Oahu. There are daily
trains to Haleiwa—"the House Beautiful" (see arrow), and through the
most extensive pineapple fields in the world, at Wahiawa.