Monocle 25/25 Buenos Aires Argentina There are two Buenos Aires: one is the traditional, with the tango nights and classical concerts at The Teatro Colón. Another is the home to some of the best and trendiest restaurants, bars and shops. Since the economic crisis that brought down Argentina in the late 20th century, Buenos Aires just gets better and better. New places to eat, shop and dance open all the time, as if to help porteños (as Buenos Aires' inhabitants are called) to forget the problems the country still faces. Essentials 01 02 03 04 05 Nobody dines before 22.00 and the nightlife never starts before 02.00. The chicest shops are in Palermo but most of them have an outlet branch on Aguirre Street. Look out for the sales. Taxis are cheap but the drivers will try to charge as much as they can. Research the route and make sure you stick to it. Even male friends greet each other with a kiss on the cheek. Buenos Aires was Unesco's World Book capital in 2012. Do some research on Borges and Cortazar – they are essential for any pub talk. For more Monocle travel guides visit monocle.com/25-25 Guide/Info Hotels Independent and easy Home Honduras 5860 +54 11 4778 1008 homebuenosaires.com Premium Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Avenida Alvear 1661 +54 11 5171 1234 buenosaires. park.hyatt.com Dependable chain NH City & Tower Bolivar 160 +34 913 984 661 nh-hotels.com Dining Fast breakfast Havanna Dozens of locations havanna.com.ar Business breakfast Los 36 Billares Avenida de Mayo 1265 +54 11 4381 5696 los36billares.com.ar Mid-morning coffee Le Blé Alvarez Thomas 899 +54 11 4554 5350 leble.com.ar Working lunch with colleagues Experiencia del Fin del Mundo Honduras 5673 +54 11 4852 6660 bodegadelfindelmundo.com Need-to-impressclients lunch Sagardi Loft Osteria Humberto Primo 319 +54 11 4361 2538 sagardi.com.ar Lunch on your own Museo Evita Restaurant José María Gutiérrez 3926 +54 11 4800 1599 museoevitaresto.com.ar Afternoon tea/drink High tea at the Alvear Palace Hotel Avenida Alvear 1891 +54 11 4808 2100 alvearpalace.com Dinner on your own Olsen Gorriti 5870 +54 11 4776 7677 Dinner with colleagues La Brigada Estados Unidos 465 +54 11 4361 5557 parrillalabrigada.com.ar Private dinner Café San Juan Avenida San Juan 450 +54 11 4300 1112 Big dinner with partner/clients Tomo I Hotel Panamericano, Carlos Pellegrini 521 +54 11 4326 6695 tomo1.com.ar Drink after dinner Florería Atlántico Arroyo 872 +54 11 4313 6093 floreriaatlantico.com.ar Late drinks Gran Bar Danzón Libertad 1161 +54 11 4811 1108 granbardanzon.com.ar On the tiles Niceto Club Niceto Vega 5510 +54 11 4779 9396 nicetoclub.com Reading Bookshop Librería El Ateneo Avenida Santa Fe 1860 +54 11 4811 6104 elateneocentenario.com Thank yous Stationery Galeria Wussmann Venezuela 570 +54 11 4343 4707 wussmann.com Shopping Something you can’t get anywhere else 28 Sport Gurruchaga 1481 +54 11 4833 4287 28sport.com Lost luggage – where to buy shirts, socks and underwear Galerías Pacífico Florida 737 +54 11 5555 5110 galeriaspacifico.com.ar Something for someone you love Paper goods from Papelera Palermo José Antonio Cabrera 5227 +54 11 4833 3081 papelerapalermo.com Something for the kids Wooden toys at Recursos Infantiles Borges 1766 +54 11 4834 6177 Two-hour tour Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (Malba) Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415 +54 11 4808 6500 malba.org.ar 02 Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat Olga Cossettini 141 (Puerto Madero Este) +54 11 4310 6600 coleccionfortabat.org.ar 03 Fundación Proa Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1929 +54 11 4104 1000 proa.org 01 Limousine/car Remis Buenos Aires José María Moreno 40, Piso 4 +54 11 4903 3202 remisbuenosaires.com.ar Transport Buy a Subte travel card The metro (Subte) costs AR$2.50 (€0.30) for a single trip. If you're staying for a while, buy a Subte magnetic card from a post office, which can be topped up with a credit card and used on the underground and buses. subte.com.ar Fitness Running route Bosques de Palermo Enter Parque 3 de Febrero at Avenida del Liberator y Sarmiento. Alternative diversion Riding at Club Hípico Argentino Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7285 +54 11 4787 1003 clubhipicoargentino.org.ar