Angle Joints
Joints used in box-like constructions, where the members are usually
joined end to side, with their edges flush.
(i) CORNER ANGLE JOINTS
Chiefly used on the exterior corner in box-like constructions. such as solid cabinets,
boxes, drawers, etc.
1. Simple Butt.
The ends or edges of the members are shot and butted
together at right angles and nailed, screwed or glued.
Generally used in packing case construction
2. Rebated Butt
The end of one piece is fitted into a rebate worked
across the end of the other piece. It is an improvement
the butt joint, as it provides two nailing surfaces and
more gluing surf ace. Used in boxes, cheap cabinets,
book shelves, cheap drawers, carcases for veneered
work etc.
3. Tongued and Trenched or Dado Joint.
Stronger than the angle lap joint. A bared faced tongue is
worked on the end of one member to it fit into a trench cut
the face of the other member. Used in box construction,
corners of cabinets and cheap drawers.
4. Locked Rabbet Drawer Joint
Locked rabbet drawer joints fasten the front of a drawer
securely to the sides. They may be made on a table saw with
a dado blade or with a router mounted in a table with the bit
shown below.
5. Mitred Joint.
This is the simplest method of connecting the end grain of pieces (the same thickness and
of similar sections, e.g., mouldings) to form an angle so that no end grain is seen.
Used for external and internal angled where little strength is required, skirting boards,
plinths, etc. The joint is frequently strengthened by a “slip feather'' or “tongue'' inserted in a
groove cut along the joint, or by keys which are pieces of veneer glued into saw kerfs
across the corner of the joint.
6. Rebated and Mitred Angle Joint.
Each piece is rebated and the ends mitred to form a
fairly strong angle joint (with two nailing surfaces) ,
which does not show any grain on the external
surfaces. The shoulders act as stops while
assembling. Used in box construction, plinths and
corners of cabinets.
6. Dovetailed Joints.
These are the strongest form of angle joint used in cabinet work. The joints consist of
(i)
one or more dovetails cut on the end of one member, and
(ii)
a number of projections called pins on the end of the other piece, which are cut to
fit into the recesses (pin sockets) on each side of the dovetails.
The strength of the joint depends upon the shape of the dovetails (which can only be
pulled away from the pins in one direction), and the added amount of gluing surface
compared with other angle joints. The gluing surface can be altered as required by
increasing the number of dovetails until they approximate the sizes of the pins.
The interlocking of the tails and pins and the increased gluing surface of dovetail joints
makes them one of the strongest joints for box-like constructions.
(a) Single Dovetail Joint. (May also be used as a framing joint)
This joint consists of only one dovetail fitting into a dovetail
socket in the second piece. A very strong joint used for narrow
pieces, such as brackets, top and bottom rails of carcases,
etc. Where it is necessary to hide the end grain of the dovetail
the joint is some times lapped.
(b) Common Dovetail Joint or Through Dovetail Joint
This is the strongest form of angle joint. It has two or more
dovetails. End grain is seen on both sides of the joint. Used in
making strong boxes, rails of tea trays, in carcase construction
and for fixing the backs of drawers to the sides.
(c) Lapped Dovetail
Similar to the common dovetail joint, differing to the extent that a lap is left on the
outside of the pins to cover the end grain of the dovetail tails.
(d) Secret Dovetail Joint
In this dovetail joint there is a double lap on
both sides of the joint, which is mitred to hide
all end grain. Assembled the joint has the
appearance of a plain mitred joint. Used in
high-class cabinet work, jewel boxes, the
etc., where both appearance and strength of
joint are required.
7. Comb Joint or Box Pin Joint
Consists of a series of alternate notches and square
pins of the same width which interlock in the
assembled joint. Used in box construction. If required
in numbers they are made by machinery,
8. Scribed Joint
An internal angle joint used in preference to the
mitred joint at the junction of mouldings where
the inside angle of the joint only is seen. E.g. on
skirting boards, cornices, etc., which meet at the
corners of a room, and on mouldings surrounding
door panels. The joint is formed by cutting the
end of one piece of moulding to fit over the shape
or profile of the other piece. This joint does not
show the effects of shrinkage.
(ii) ANGLE JOINTS OTHER THAN CORNER JOINTS
Where one piece meets another but not at an end, with the faces of the pieces at right
angles such as shelves and partitions in cupboards, etc.
1. Dowelled Joints
May be used to strengthen butt joints
2. Housed Joints
The housed joint consists of sinking the end or edge of one member into a trench or
groove in the face of another member. Used chiefly for fixing shelves or divisions in
bookcases, cabinets, treads of step ladders, stairs,
etc.
(a) Through or Full Housing Joint - The whole end
or edge is fitted into a through trench and the joint is
visible on both sides.
(b) Stopped Housing Joint –
In better class work this joint is used in preference to
the through housing, for improved appearance. The
end of the trench is stopped back from the front edge,
and the end of the shelf notched to suit, so that in the
assembled joint the trench is not seen.
(c) Dovetail Housing Joint
Used where a stronger joint is required. The end of the
shelf is dovetailed on one or both sides and fitted into a
dovetailed trench.
If only one side is dovetailed it may be called a barefaced
dovetail.