- New Breed Archery

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Obtaining Warranty Service
To obtain warranty service, you should return your
bow to the New Breed Authorized Dealer where you
purchased your New Breed bow. The dealer can help
to determine if New Breed factory service is required
or if the dealer can complete the repair.
If the bow must be returned to the factory, the bow
owner is responsible for the freight charges to New
Breed. New Breed, in turn, will pay for the same
return freight of the repaired product, if it is a
warranty issue.
Before any bow is returned, a Return Authorization
number must be obtained through an Authorized New
Breed Dealer. Bows returned to the factory without a
Return Authorization number will be sent back. Do
not send accessories with bow unless otherwise
instructed to.
Write the Return Authorization number on the outside
of the shipping box and send bow requiring factory
service to:
New Breed Archery
2980 Hawkins Lane
Fultondale, AL 35068
info@newbreedarchery.com
New Breed Archery
Owner’s Manual
Page 1
Page 2
Things to Know
Thank You
Welcome to the New Breed
Nation!
Here at New Breed Archery we would like to thank
you and with a combined total of 32 years living the
archery lifestyle, we’re here to bring you the best
possible line of compound bows a company can offer.
Here at New Breed we feel Quality is job one. We
only use top quality components in our bows, and
every bow is hand assembled by trained professionals
that are not only skilled bow smiths, but are archers
too! We are cutting edge when it comes to technology
and bow design, but we have an old school mind set
“Bows for Archers. Made by Archers.”
Our Vision
At New Breed Archery we have a vision: Shape the
future of archery by being the "best in our class" in
customer service and by setting the bar for excellence
and innovation in the archery industry.
Our Mission
Empower the customer to enjoy archery by building
the most innovative and highest quality archery
equipment in the world.
Things to know before you shoot your bow:
1. NEVER “DRY FIRE” YOUR BOW. Dry fire means to
draw and release the bowstring without firing an arrow. Firing
a bow without an arrow to absorb the energy can cause
severe damage to your bow and possible injury to the shooter
or others nearby. Let down the bow slowly and carefully from
any drawn position. Never try drawing a bow that does not fit
your size or strength. Damage caused by a dry fire will not be
covered under warranty.
2. MINIMUM ARROW WEIGHT. Do not shoot an arrow
weighing less than five grains for every pound of peak draw
weight. For example: If your bow’s peak weight is 70 pounds,
do not shoot an arrow weighing less than 350 grains.
Shooting an arrow below five grains per pound can cause
damage to your bow and possible injury to the shooter or
others nearby. Damage caused by shooting an arrow that is
too light will not be covered under warranty.
3. CAREFULLY INSPECT YOUR BOW BEFORE EACH
USE. Carefully note the condition of the bowstrings, limbs,
cams and riser before you shoot. Frayed bowstrings should
be replaced. Damaged risers, limbs, cams etc. should be
reported to your local dealer for inspection or replacement.
4. INSPECT ALL ARROWS. Before shooting, inspect your
arrows for defects. Discard cracked or dented shafts. Replace
damaged or loose fletchings and nocks. Never shoot a damaged
arrow.
5. NEVER EXPOSE YOUR BOW TO EXTREME HEAT
OR PROLONGED MOISTURE. Excessive heat, such as
that experienced on a sunny day inside a closed vehicle,
could cause component failure. Prolonged storage in a hot,
dry attic or damp basement could also be damaging. Store
the bow properly when it is not in use. Damage caused by
extreme exposure will not be covered under warranty.
Page 3
Page 4
Things to Know
Things to know before you shoot your bow:
6. BE SURE OF YOUR BACKSTOP. Make sure that the
Backstop you use is large enough to catch a stray arrow
and that it is thick enough that the arrow cannot completely
penetrate it. Make sure that it is positioned in a safe direction
away from people, livestock, buildings and roads.
7. BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET. Make sure that there are
no people, livestock, buildings, roads or other objects behind
or near your target. Be absolutely sure of your target in all conditions.
8. ALWAYS BE SAFE. Never shoot straight up. Wear safety
glasses when working on and shooting your bow. Be careful
around strings and cables when using broadheads. Cutting
strings and cables can cause serious damage to your bow and
possible injury to you or others. Do not draw the bow beyond
its maximum draw length. Never point or aim a drawn bow at
another person. Never Allow a Child to use a bow without Adult
Supervision.
9. ALWAYS US THE PROPER PRESS. Always use a “Double Pull” press on
your bow, when performing maintenance that requires a bow press.
Double Pull means it properly applies pressure equally to both ends of the bow
in the limb pocket and riser area at the same time.
Never use a “single pull” press on your bow, when performing maintenance that
requires a bow press. Single pull means it only pulls in the grip area of the bow.
10. DO NOT MODIFY THE BOW IN ANY WAY to increase it draw weight or
draw length over its designed or published limits.
11. DO NOT DRAW YOUR BOW WHEN the draw length module is removed
or loose.
12. NEVER TOUCH OR PLACE HANDS AND FINGERS near the
wheels/cams or cables of the bow when in use.
13. POSSIBLE DAMAGE AND/OR INJURY CAN OCCUR when using non
standard cable slide replacement. It is recommended to only use factory slide.
14. NEVER BACK YOUR LIMB BOLTS OF THE BOW out more than 4 turns
from the bottomed out position (all the way down to max draw weight) Always
do even turns on both top and bottom limb bolt.
15. NEVER OVER TIGHTEN LIMB BOLTS it can cause damage to the limb
and the bow
Things to Know
Things to know before you shoot your bow:
16. ALWAYS CHECK MOUNTING SCREWS after the first few shots.
17. FREQUENTLY CHECK MODULE SCREWS TO ENSURE THEY ARE
TIGHT
18. WAX YOUR BOW STRING and cables especially during heavy use.
19. WHEN LETTING DOWN YOUR BOW from a drawn position do so slowly
and be prepared for a sudden change in force.
20. DO NOT SHOOT YOUR BOW with a worn or damaged string, cables, or
arrow rest.
21. NEVER ATTEMPT TO SHOOT AN ARROW TO SHORT FOR THE
BOW.
22. IT IS RECOMMENDED when shooting your bow to wear safety glasses
and use a bow sling or maintain a grip on the bow when shot. Any bow can be
dangeous if released by the bow hand at any time during any part of the
draw cycle before the arrow is released.
23. NEVER ATTEMPT TO CHANGE YOUR MODULES WITH OUT
PRESSING THE BOW DURING THE MODULE CHANGE
24. NEVER DRAW YOUR BOW WITH OUT
BOTH DRAW MODULES AND BOTH LIMB
STOPS PROPERLY INSTALLED, DOING SO
MAY AND WILL CAUSE INJURY TO THE
BOW AND SHOOTER.
READ AND HEED ALL WARNINGS. New Breed Archery
cannot be held responsible for injuries suffered or caused by
misuse, unsafe or improper arrow and bow combinations.
New Breed Archery cannot be held responsible for injuries
sustained when using an altered or modified New Breed
bow.
Page 5
Page 6
Timing your Bow
Measuring
To make sure you bow is in time, draw the bow back to full
draw and measure the distance between the take up cable
peg(post) and the let out cable, on the top and bottom cam. It is
highly recommended to only do this with a draw board, which
has a locking draw safety and a “D” loop safety rope installed.
It is advised to see your authorized dealer for this assist or to
perform this service for you.(See illustration on opposite page)
Both cams should measure within 1/32” of each other.
If the top cam has the shortest distance of the two
measurements, the bow needs to be let down out of the draw
board, pressed and add twist to the top Take Up Cable,(be sure
to re-install cable properly before un-pressing or drawing the
bow). The usual standard is if the measurement is off by 1/8”
then add one twist to the shortest measurement end of the bow.
EXAMPLE
If the top cam measures 1 1/2” and the bottom cam measures 1
5/8” then you need to add one twist to the top cam take up
cable. If the top measurement measures 1 3/8” and the bottom
measures 1 5/8” then you should add two twists to the top cam
take up cable.
NOTE: Your bow will come factory timed and only needs to
be checked after excessive use or during cable and string
replacement. You bow will show no performance difference as
long as the measurements are with in 1/8”.
Please remember do not at anytime during this process touch or
place fingers on the Cams or Cables
It is highly encouraged to have this procedure done
by a trained professional at an Archery Pro Shop.
Page 7
Page 8
Properly installing the Draw Stop
Understanding the Cam Markings
You bow is equipped with 2 draw stops on the cams. The cam
is marked on the cable side is labeled SP for split limb model
bows. Each marking has a Negative {--}mark which is the low
setting and a Plus {+}mark which is the high setting. Starting
from the Negative{--} mark and going to the Plus Mark{+} the
lines increase according to the module number it matches. If
your bow is a Lycan or Eclipse you will need to start with
the E {--} mark on the RL cam, and on the SL and EL cam
start with the lowest mark being 1 and move it up to match
module number. The mark closest to the Negative {--}mark is
for the number 1 Module and the one closest to the
Plus{+}mark is for the Number 8 Module., with the other
marks matching Modules 2 through 7(see illustration on
opposite page). Set the center of the draw stop in the center of
the line that matches the module number.
The Stops are factory set and should only be adjusted during a
string and or cable change. You should roughly set the stops to
1/16” or more below the matching module line when
timing(see timing your bow) until the bow is with in 1/8”
timed and then adjust the stop to the desired let off or
Maximum 78% let off, (which ever comes first). Do not go
over 78-80% let off .
It is recommended to mark your cam with a permanent
marker when you first get the bow so you can have the
factory setting referenced for future changes.
If you have a bow that has SD marking on the string side of
the cam and you have a Solid Limb bow these are the setting
for the draw stop. Start with {--} negative mark and count up to
the lines until you reach the line that matches the module
number.
Page 9
Page 10
Properly installing the Draw Stop
Continued
Setting the Stops (Continued)
Setting the Stops
You bow is equipped with 2 draw stops, one on the top and one
on the bottom cam. These stops are set from the factory and
should only be adjusted when needed due to cable and/or string
change. If for any reason the draw stop or stops should become
loose or damaged stop shooting the bow and take it to an
authorized New Breed Dealer for evaluation and or
replacement. Remember
NEVER DRAW THE
NEVER ATTEMPT TO MAKE A DRAW
STOP ADJUSTMENT TO THE BOW
DURING ANY PART OF THE DRAW
CYCLE
Now take the recorded peak weight measurement and multiply
it by .25(recommended) or
.22(maximum).
Example: 65lb X .25 = 16.25lb
Note: Only adjust the top stop leaving the bottom stop set
BOW WITH OUT THE DRAW STOPS it will
centered on the matching module mark
cause damage and/or injury to the bow and the shooter.
If the figure of the let off weight is higher than the calculated
Once you have the top stop set roughly 1/16” or lower than the
weight move the stop up a 1/32nd or no more than 1/16th of an
matching module mark(see understanding the cam marks) and
inch up. NOTE: A 1/6th is a lot during this adjustment.
the bottom stop is centered on the matching module mark with
the bow roughly timed to at least 1/8”(see timing your bow) it
If the figure of the recorded let off weight is lower than the
is time to set the stop to its proper position. The bow should be
calculated weight move the stop down a 1/32nd or no more
set to the approximate desired draw weight before continuing.
than 1/16th of an inch up. NOTE: A 1/6th is a lot during this
Draw the bow using a draw board equipped with a scale to
measure draw weight, record peak weight(the maximum the
scale read during the draw) and then record let off weight(the
least amount measured by the scale when the bow was at full
draw and the limb stop just did touch the limb).
NEVER OVER DRAW THE BOW WHEN
THE STOP IS REACHED DO NOT
CONTINUE DRAWING THE BOW IT
WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE BOW
AND/OR SHOOTER
adjustment.
Once you have reached your desired let off or the maximum let
off of 78%(80%) it is a good idea to recheck the timing of the
bow and finish the final timing if you had only roughed it
in.(see timing the bow)
It is highly encouraged to have
this procedure done by a trained
professional at an Archery Pro
Shop.
Page 11
Page 12
Properly installing the Draw Stop
Continued
TOP
Setting the Top and Bottom Stops
Once you have the Top Stop set to the proper let off and the
bow is timed(See timing your bow), it is time to set the bottom
stop to allow for best possible performance of the bow.
It is recommended that the Bottom Stop does not touch at the
same time as the top stop. While it is ok to set it that way, New
Breed recommends it be off set only by a few thousands of an
inch, we have discovered the bow performs better when the top
stop is doing all the work and the bottom stop is merely there
as a back up in case the Top Stop should become loose or
damaged.
Here is how we set it from the factory:
Once the top stop is set to the desired let off all you need to do
is set the bottom stop 1/32nd of an inch or less, lower than the
Top stop mark. The best way to judge this is draw the bow
back in a professional draw board equipped a locking draw
safety and a “D” loop safety rope installed, look at the Top
Stop to make sure the rubber on the stop is pressed firmly
against the top limb and the Bottom Stop rubber is only lightly
pressed or barely touching the bottom limb. (See example
photos on the Next Page).
REMEMBER: NEVER ATTEMPT TO MAKE A
DRAW STOP ADJUSTMENT TO THE BOW
DURING ANY PART OF THE DRAW CYCLE
NEVER OVER DRAW THE BOW WHEN THE
STOP IS REACHED DO NOT CONTINUE
DRAWING THE BOW IT WILL CAUSE
DAMAGE TO THE BOW AND/OR SHOOTER
It is highly encouraged to have this procedure
done by a trained professional at an Archery Pro
Shop.
BOTTOM
Page 13
Understanding the Bionix 2.0 system and
module Numbers
Serial Number and Modules
The New Bionix Module System is designed to
fit several New Breed Bow models this chart is
to help determine the correct module for the
bow you have purchased:
There are Three(3) size Bionix 2.0 Cams:
SL Cam = Small
RL Cam = Regular
Page 14
Modules Continued
Module Chart:
Genetix SL Cam:
1-25”, 2-25.5”, 3-26”, 4-26.5”, 5-27”
Genetix RL Cam:
3-27.5”, 4-28”, 5-28.5”, 6-29”, 7-29.5”
Genetix EL Cam:
3-30”, 4- 30.5”, 5-31”
Eclipse SL Cam:
1-25.5”, 2-26”, 3-26.5”, 4-27”, 5-27.5”
Eclipse RL Cam:
3-28”, 4-28.5”, 5-29”, 6-29.5”
Eclipse EL Cam:
3-30”, 4- 30.5”, 5-31”, 6-31.5”, 7-32”
EL Cam = Large
The Genetix uses the following cam for the following
draw lengths: 25” to 27” SL Cam, 27.5” to 29.5” RL
Cam, and 30” to 31” EL Cam
The Eclipse uses the following cam for the following
draw lengths: 25.5” to 27.5” SL Cam, 27.5” to 29.5” RL
Cam, and 30” to 32” EL Cam
The Lycan uses the following cam for the following draw
lengths: 24.5” to 26.5” SL Cam, 27” to 28” RL Cam, and
28.5” to 30” EL Cam
The Cyborg uses the following cam for the following
draw lengths: 26.5” to 28” SL Cam, 28.5” to 30.5” RL
Cam, and 31” to 32” EL Cam
The Horizon uses the following cam for the following
draw lengths: 27” to 30” SL Cam, and 30.5” to 32” RL
Cam
Lycan SL Cam:
1-24.5”, 2-25”, 3-25.5”, 4-26”, 5-26.5”
Lycan RL Cam:
3-27”, 4-27.5”, 5-28”
Lycan EL Cam:
3-28.5”, 4- 29”, 5-29.5”, 6-30”
Cyborg SL Cam:
1-26.5”, 2-27”, 3-27.5”, 4-28”, 5-28.5”
Cyborg RL Cam:
3-29”, 4-29.5”, 5-30”, 6-30.5”
Cyborg EL Cam:
4- 31”, 5-31.5”, 6-32”
NEVER ATTEMPT TO CHANGE YOUR MODULES WITH
OUT PRESSING THE BOW DURING THE MODULE
CHANGE
NEVER DRAW YOUR BOW WITH OUT BOTH DRAW
MODULES AND BOTH LIMB STOPS PROPERLY
INSTALLED, DOING SO MAY AND WILL CAUSE INJURY
TO THE BOW AND SHOOTER.
Page 15
Modules Continued
Module Chart:
Horizon SL Cam:
1-27”, 2-27.5”, 3-28”, 4-28.5”, 5-29”, 629.5”, 7-30”
Horizon RL Cam:
3-30”, 4-30.5”, 5-31”, 6-31.5”, 7-32”
NEVER ATTEMPT TO CHANGE YOUR MODULES WITH
OUT PRESSING THE BOW DURING THE MODULE
CHANGE
NEVER DRAW YOUR BOW WITH OUT BOTH DRAW
MODULES AND BOTH LIMB STOPS PROPERLY
INSTALLED, DOING SO MAY AND WILL CAUSE INJURY
TO THE BOW AND SHOOTER.
Page 16
Page 17
Page 18
Understanding the Bionix 2.0 Let out cable
Pegs(Post)
Let out Cable Post Settings
The New Bionix Module System is designed to
fit several New Breed Bow models. This section
will help explain which post to put your cable
on when replacing the cables. Note: The modules
will most likely have to be removed to replace the cables
on the bow.
One of New Breed’s innovative designs was to design a 2
track cam to cam module system, licensed under US
Patent Pending Number 12/290,750 that would allow for
modules to be replaced with out having to remove the
cables from the cams or modules. To do this required
New Breed to place two post on the cams for the let out
cable to connect to the following chart shows which
PEG(post) the cable should be placed on for the bow to
Let out Cable Post Settings
properly operate.
You will have to remove the UPPER PEG to install Modules 1 and 2. Failure
Modules 3 through 7 connect to the UPPER
to do so will cause damage to the cam and will not be covered under
PEG(post) Also known as the removable peg(post)
warranty! Failure to remove the cable when replacing cables can cause
Modules 1 and 2 connect to the LOWER PEG(post)
damage to the Cam and Cable and will not be replaced under warranty!
Also known as the permanent peg(post)
See Photo on opposite page. The Photo shows
the cable connected to the UPPER PEG(post).
The EL Cam will only have a removable peg,
the 1 and 2 are not used.
NEVER ATTEMPT TO CHANGE YOUR MODULES WITH OUT PRESSING
THE BOW DURING THE MODULE CHANGE
NEVER DRAW YOUR BOW WITH OUT BOTH DRAW MODULES AND BOTH
LIMB STOPS PROPERLY INSTALLED, DOING SO MAY AND WILL CAUSE
INJURY TO THE BOW AND SHOOTER.
Tuning Reference
NOTES:
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This is a quick guide to get you started in
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fine tuning your New Breed Bow.
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This diagram is not meant to be the final
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settings but more or less a quick reference
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to where to start tuning your bow. There
can be many variables to get your bow
properly tuned, so it is highly encouraged to
have the bow tuned by a trained
professional at an Archery Pro Shop.
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