FUN LIGHT SWITCH BOX | JAMECO PART NO. 2168309
Experience Level: Intermediate | Time Required: 4 Hours
Kids and adults will find this toy incredibly engaging and fun. Press a button and something lights up. Flip a switch, and everything
changes! You'll be amazed at how such incredibly unpredictable behavior can be achieved through cleverly connected switches and
pushbuttons.
Required Tools & Parts:
Soldering iron and solder
Drill press (preferred) or hand drill
X-Acto knife
Small flat or triangular file
Drill bits (1/4", 9/32", 13/32", 15/32", 9/16", 5/8",
13/16")
Phillips head screwdriver
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Needle nose pliers
8x AA batteries
Double-sided foam tape
Kit Includes:
Switch, push button, black, OFF-(ON)
Switch, push button, red, illuminated, OFF-(ON)
Switch, push button, green, OFF-(ON)
Switch, push button, red, OFF-(ON)
Switch, basic, pull-to-cheat
Switch, mini toggle, DPDT, ON-ON
Switch, sub mini toggle, SPDT, ON-OFF-ON
Switch, mini toggle, DPDT, (ON)-OFF-(ON)
Switch, rocker, DPST, red, illuminated, ON-OFF
Switch, toggle, DPDT, (ON)-OFF-(ON)
Switch, toggle, DPDT, ON-OFF-ON
Switch, rocker, SPST, black
Lamp, panel, red, 12V
Lamp, panel, green, 12V
Lamp, panel, white, 12V
Lamp, panel, red, 12V
Case, ABS, 7.5" x 4.25" x 2.25"
Resistor, 1/4W, 680Ω
Battery holder, 8xAA, wire leads
Heat shrink, 1/16" x 4ft, black
Prototype board, 3.5" x 2.5"
Stranded mounting wire set, 10 color
Wire jumper kit, 140pcs, 5 colors
Header, vertical male, 1 row, 40 pin, 0.1"
Step 1 - Gather your materials
Here's what you need in addition to your kit.

Drill bits: You need quite a few specific drill bit sizes to make this project. I tried to choose an interesting variety of switches
and lights. This makes the project look cool, but requires hunting down lots of odd sized drill bits.
Sizes required: 1/4, 9/32, 13/32, 15/32, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 and 13/16 inch

Soldering iron and solder: If you are fairly new to soldering, try watching an instructional video on YouTube. It is well worth
your time. This project requires a fair amount of soldering, but it is pretty easy if you know the right technique.

Drill press (preferred) or hand drill and center punch: You have to make some pretty precise holes. A center punch is a must.

X-Acto knife: Used to clean up burrs from drilled holes. You could use a utility knife or file or sanding paper instead.

Small flat file or triangular file: Used for making the rectangular cut outs and for cleaning up burrs.

Wire cutters, wire strippers and a small pair of needle nose pliers.

Phillips head screwdriver: Used for attaching the lid.

8 AA batteries: A set of alkaline AA batteries should last a really long time in this project. I don't recommend rechargeables for
this project, because they don't have the shelf life of alkaline.

Double-sided foam tape: For attaching components inside the project box.
Step 2 - Prepare the project cover for drilling
1) Download the drilling template from the following link and print it out. Be sure to print it at a 1:1 ratio (no scaling).
http://letsmakerobots.com/files/userpics/u5293/Fun_Light_Switch_Box_Stencil.pdf
Confirm the printout is scaled properly by measuring the width from the left to right 'cut here' lines is 7 3/8 inches.
2) Cut the template along the lines indicated by the arrows. This line represents
the inner rim of the project box lid.
3) Cut out the little squares in the corners of the template. This leaves room for
the screw holes for the lid, and allows the drilling template to fit nicely on the
inside of the lid.
4) The template should just fit inside the back of the project box lid. If it is too
loose, it will move around and you won't get precisely placed holes. If it is too big
it won't lay flat and you'll have problems too. Trim the paper as needed.
Step 3 - Mark the cover for drilling
1) Lay the lid of the project box upside down and place the drilling template
inside with the printed side facing you.
2) Take a center punch and carefully punch a single time at the center of each
marked hole.
3) Remove the paper template, but save if for reference.
Step 3
Step 4 - Start by drilling the smaller holes
Note: A stepped drill bit is very useful here. When drilling holes in flat stock, a stepped bit lets
you start with a small hole that is easier to keep on center and work your way up. If you don't
have a stepped bit, then drill all the holes with the smallest size (1/4 inch) and work up to larger
sizes as you change out drill bits.
Another Note: A drill press is much better for this, but you can get by with a hand drill if you
clamp your work piece down and have a steady hand.
1) Drill out all 7/32 inch holes and the 1/4 holes.
2) Next drill out the 9/32 inch holes.
3) Next drill out the 13/32 inch and 15/32 inch holes.
4) Keep working up through the 1/2 inch holes.
Step 5 - Drill the larger holes
Note: When you get above 1/2 inch, it is really important to start with a smaller bit and work
Step 4
upwards.
1) Drill out the 9/16, 33/64, and the 5/8 inch holes.
2) Using my stepped bit, I found for the 13/16 inch hole, I needed to use a piece of wood as a backer behind the lid in order to keep
from hitting the work surface of my drill press.
Step 6 - Deburr drill holes
Clean any rough or raised edges around the drilled holes with
an X-Acto knife or other tool. Carefully cut away any rough
edges (burrs) from around the drilled holes.
Step 7 - Pat self on back
Pause to admire your handiwork. Hopefully your project box
cover now looks something like the picture in this step. Nice
work!
Step 8 - Make the rectangular cut-outs
1) Create the cut-out for the white snap-in plunger button. Use a triangular file or other tool
to expand the two 9/16 inch holes at the top center of the cover into a rectangle.
2) Create the cut-out for the red rocker switch. Again use a triangular file or other tool to
make a rectangular hole by expanding the
33/64 inch and two 1/4 inch holes that are directly below the rectangular hole you just
completed.
Step 6, 7
Step 8
Step 9 - Test fit rectangular holes
Test fit the two switches in the rectangular holes. You may need to adjust your holes a bit if the fit is too
tight.
1) The white snap-in plunger button should fit in the rectangular hole you made pretty easily. Don't worry
about trying to make a tight fit; the tabs on the ends of the switch will hold it in place.
2) The red rocker switch may be a tight fit. It can be hard to remove once it is snapped in place,
so try to get the hole cut enough before you snap it all the way in.
Step 9
Step 10 - Add parts to the cover
Install all the switches, buttons and lights.
1) Snap the rectangular buttons and the round rocker switch in place.
2) Install all the parts that require threaded nuts. For the toggle switches that have a round washer with a small downwards-facing tab,
discard this washer before installing.
Step 10
Step 11 - Solder wires to lamps
Note: The small green, yellow and red lamps already have wires attached. Since they have black
wires, we will stay with that theme and use black wires on the other lamps too. As you will see the
colors of the wires are important, to help keep track of what could be a pretty confusing mess.
1) Cut four 8-inch lengths of black wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the insulation from each end of
each wire.
Tip: I highly recommend twisting the end of each wire until it is in a smooth spiral, then tinning the
ends with solder. This will keep the individual strands from separating. I may not mention this for
every step of these instructions, but any time you strip stranded wire in this project, you should
twist and tin the ends.
3) Locate the two solder tabs on the back of the large red lamp. Solder a black wire to one of the
tabs. Repeat for the other tab with a separate wire.
4) Locate the back of the round red illuminated push button (see picture) .There are four solder
tabs. Locate the pair labeled '+' and '-', and solder one black wire to each.
Note: Take note of which wire is attached to '+'. This will be very important in a future step.
Step 11
Step 12 - Solder wires to pushbuttons
1) Cut eight 8-inch lengths of green wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the
insulation from each end of each wire. Twist and solder tin the ends of each
wire.
2) On the back of the round illuminated red pushbutton there are four solder
tabs. Refer to the picture. Two are labeled '+' and '-', and should already
have black wires soldered to them. Solder a green wire to each of the
remaining two tabs.
3) Locate the two solder tabs on the back of the round black pushbutton.
Solder a green wire to each of the tabs.
4) Locate the two solder tabs on the back of the square red pushbutton.
Solder a green wire to each of the tabs.
5) Locate the two solder tabs on the back of the round green pushbutton.
Solder a green wire to each of the tabs.
Step 13 - Solder wires to contact 1
of double throw switches
Note: Switches can have one or more
poles. Each pole controls one signal.
A switch with one pole is called Single
Pole (SP). A switch with two poles is
called Double Pole (DP). Each pole
can be switched to one or more
contacts, which is called the 'throw'. A
pole that only connects to one contact
or disconnects to that contact is called
Single Throw (ST). A pole that can be
alternately connected to one contact
or to a second contact is called
Double Throw (DT). In these
instructions, I will refer to different
types of switches, such as:
Single Pole Single Throw (SPST)
Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT)
Double Pole Single Throw (DPST)
Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT)
Step 12
Step 13
1) Identify all the double throw switches. There's the big DPDT toggle, the little red SPDT toggle, and two medium sized blue DPDT
switches. Do not wire up any momentary switches in this step, they'll come later.
2) Cut seven 8-inch lengths of grey wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the insulation from each end of each wire. Twist and solder tin the
ends of each wire.
3) On the back of the big DPDT toggle there are six solder tabs. Refer to the picture. The two at the top are labeled '1' and '4'. Solder a
gray wire to each of them.
4) Locate the three solder tabs on the back of the little red SPDT toggle. Solder a gray wire to either one of the side tabs (not the
center).
5) Locate the six solder tabs on the back of the two medium blue DPDT toggle switches. Refer to the picture. Solder a gray wire to two
of the tabs at one side of one of the switches. Repeat for the other blue toggle switch.
Step 14 - Solder wires to contact 2 of the double throw switches
Step 14
1) Identify all the double throw switches. There's the big DPDT toggle, the little red SPDT toggle, and two medium sized blue DPDT
switches. Do not wire up any momentary switches in this step, they'll come later. There should already be grey wires soldered to one
set of contacts for each switch; now we will wire the contacts on the other side (not the center yet).
2) Cut seven 8-inch lengths of brown wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the insulation from each end of each wire. Twist and solder tin the
ends of each wire.
3) On the back of the big DPDT toggle there are six solder tabs. Refer to the picture. The two at the bottom are labeled '3' and '6'.
Solder a brown wire to each of them.
4) Locate the three solder tabs on the back of the little red SPDT toggle. Solder a brown wire to the tab on the opposite side from the
tab you already soldered grey wires to.
5) Locate the six solder tabs on the back of the two medium blue DPDT toggle switches. Refer to the picture. Solder a brown wire to the
two tabs on the opposite side from the set you already soldered grey wires to. Repeat for the other blue toggle switch.
Step 15 - Solder wires to the center contact of the double throw switches
Step 15
1) Identify all the double throw switches. There's the big DPDT toggle, the little red SPDT toggle, and two medium sized blue DPDT
switches. Do not wire up any momentary switches in this step, they'll come later. There should already be grey and brown wires
soldered to each set of contacts for each switch; now we will wire the center
contacts.
2) Cut seven 8-inch lengths of purple wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the insulation
from each end of each wire. Twist and solder tin the ends of each wire.
3) On the back of the big DPDT toggle there are six solder tabs. Refer to the
picture. The two in the center are labeled '2' and '5'.
Solder a purple wire to each of them.
4) Locate the three solder tabs on the back of the little red SPDT toggle. Solder a
purple wire to the center contact.
5) Locate the six solder tabs on the back of the two medium blue DPDT toggle
switches. Refer to the picture. Solder a purple wire to each of the center tabs.
Repeat for the other blue toggle switch.
Step 16 - Solder wires to contact 1 of the single throw rocker switches
1) Identify the two rocker switches. There's the red rectangular DPST rocker and
the black round SPST rocker.
2) Cut three 8-inch lengths of yellow wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the insulation
from each end of each wire. Twist and solder tin the ends of each wire.
3) On the back of the red DPST rocker there are four solder tabs. Refer to the
picture. One set are closer together, and one set are placed further apart from each
other. Solder a yellow wire to each of the pair that are closer together.
4) Locate the two solder tabs on the back of the black round SPST rocker. Solder a
yellow wire to one of the contacts.
Step 17 - Solder wires to contact 2 of the single throw rocker switches
1) Identify the two rocker switches. There's the red rectangular DPST rocker and
the black round SPST rocker.
2) Cut three 8-inch lengths of orange wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the insulation
from each end of each wire. Twist and solder tin the ends of each wire.
3) On the back of the red DPST rocker there are four solder tabs. Refer to the picture. One set are
should already have yellow wires soldered to them. Solder an orange wire to each of the other pair
of tabs.
4) Locate the two solder tabs on the back of the black round SPST rocker. One tab should already
have a yellow wire soldered to it. Solder an orange wire to the other tab.
Step 18 - Solder wires to contact 1 of double throw momentary switches
1) Identify all the double throw momentary switches. There's the big white snap-in plunger switch
and two DPDT center-off momentary toggle switches. One is red and the other is black.
2) Cut five 8-inch lengths of white wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the insulation from each end of
each wire. Twist and solder tin the ends of each wire.
3) On the back of the white snap-in plunger switch there are three solder tabs. Refer to the picture.
Solder a white wire to the one labeled 'OPEN'.
4) Locate the six solder tabs on the back of the medium black DPDT momentary toggle switch.
Refer to the picture. Solder a white wire to two of the tabs at one side of one of the switch.
5) Locate the six solder tabs on the back of the medium red DPDT momentary toggle switch. Refer
Step 16
Step 17
Step 18
to the picture. Solder a white wire to two of the tabs at one side of one of the switch.
Step 19 - Solder wires to center contact of double throw momentary
switches
Note: The picture for this step shows a close-up of only one switch, and also
shows the blue wires from the next step as well as the red wires for this step.
1) Identify all the double throw momentary switches. There's the big white snapin plunger switch and two DPDT center-off momentary toggle switches. One is
red and the other is black.
2) Cut five 8-inch lengths of red wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the insulation
from each end of each wire. Twist and solder tin the ends of each wire.
3) On the back of the white snap-in plunger switch there are three solder tabs.
Solder a red wire to the one labeled 'CLOSED'.
4) Locate the six solder tabs on the back of the medium black DPDT momentary
toggle switch. Refer to the picture. Solder a red wire to the two tabs at the center
of the switch.
5) Locate the six solder tabs on the back of the medium red DPDT momentary
toggle switch. Solder a red wire to the two tabs at the center of the switch.
Step 20 - Solder wired to contact 2 of the double throw momentary
switches
Note: The picture for this step shows a close-up of only one switch, and also
shows the red wires from the previous step as well as the blue wires for this step.
1) Identify all the double throw momentary switches. There's the big white snapin plunger switch and two DPDT center-off momentary toggle switches. One is
red and the other is black.
2) Cut five 8-inch lengths of blue wire. Strip off about 1/4 inch of the insulation
from each end of each wire. Twist and solder tin the ends of each wire.
3) On the back of the white snap-in plunger switch there are three solder tabs.
Solder a blue wire to the one labeled 'COMMON'.
4) Locate the six solder tabs on the back of the medium black DPDT momentary
toggle switch. There should already be white wires on one side and red wires on
the center contacts. Solder a blue wire to each of the two tabs at the other end of
the switch.
5) Locate the six solder tabs on the back of the medium red DPDT momentary
toggle switch. Refer to picture. There should already be white wires on one side
and red wires on the center contacts. Solder a blue wire to each of the two tabs
at the other end of the switch.
Step 21 - Circuit board overview
Take a look at the picture and compare it to your actual circuit board. The
colored blue, red, and pink areas indicate connections on the board. Each strip of
blue connects all the contact pads. So if you connect a wire or header pin to a
pad, it will be electrically connected to all the other contiguous contacts in the
same color strip. In the next few steps, we will solder in components, header
pins, and wires to build our circuit.
Step 22 - Solder resistor to board and add battery wires
1) Ensure the batteries are not installed in the battery holder.
2) Feed the red and black wires up through the larger holes in the
board from the bottom, and place the stripped and tinned ends of
the wires as shown in the picture. The black battery wire connects
to the upper red ground bus. The red battery wire connects to the
lower red power bus.
3) Solder the black and red battery wires in place.
4) Insert the 680 1/4 Watt resistor into circuit board in the position
shown in the picture. One end connects to the red power bus. The
other side of the resistor connects to the second contact from the
top of one of the blue contact pads as shown.
Step 23 - Solder header pins
Note: Using header pins and jumpers, you will be able to
interconnect switches, buttons and lamps... and reconfigure them
later if desired. In this step we are soldering in all the headers.
1) Snap off one 16-pin header from the row of 40 snap off pins.
2) Snap off seventeen 3-pin headers.
3) Snap off three 2-pin headers.
4) Snap off one 5-pin header.
Step 22
Step 19
Step 20
Step 21
5) Refer to the picture. Insert each set of header pins and solder in
place one at a time.
Note: When soldering the headers, use of a helping hands or
soldering vice are recommended. Place a header in place, and
solder in one pin only. Check the header to be sure the pins are
straight, and inserted all the way so that the black plastic base of
the header is flush with the circuit board. If it is not in correctly,
reheat the one pin and position it correctly. Once the header is in
place correctly, solder all the pins in place.
Step 24 - Cross connects
Note: An interesting technique is to cross connect the opposite
contacts of two poles on a DPDT switch. This provides the ability to
operate both poles together to alternately switch two signals
between two targets. So in one position, signal 1 goes to
destination one and signal 2 goes to destination two. In the other
position, the signals swap and signal 1 goes to destination 2 and
signal 2 goes to destination 1. Clear? Maybe not, but just connect
wires as shown in the figure, and you'll be fine.
1) Solder three pair of short wires as shown in the picture.
Step 23
Step 25 - Lamp wires
Note: In this step we are connecting all the lamps to the circuit
board. The lamp inside the round red illuminated pushbutton is
actually an LED, and requires the external resistor to limit the
current. Otherwise the LED will blow out immediately.
1) Identify the black wire coming from the round red illuminated
pushbutton that is soldered to the tab labeled '+'. Refer to the
picture.
Solder this wire to the circuit board so that it connects to one side
of the resistor.
2) Identify the black wire coming from the round red illuminated
pushbutton that is soldered to the tab labeled '-'. Refer to the
picture.
Solder this wire to the circuit board so that it connects to the header
Step
pins at the bottom of the board, closest to the resistor.
3) Find the black wires connected to the small red lamp. Refer to
the picture. Solder one black wire to the positive power bus
(connected to the red wire from the battery box). Solder the
other black wire from this lamp to the header pins at the
bottom of the board, just to the left of the one from the round
red illuminated pushbutton '-' wire.
4) Find the black wires connected to the large red lamp.
Refer to the picture. Solder one black wire to the positive
power bus (connected to the red wire from the battery box).
Solder the other black wire from this lamp to the header pins
at the bottom of the board, just to the left of the one from the
small red lamp.
5) Find the black wires connected to the yellow lamp. Refer
to the picture. Solder one black wire to the positive power
bus (connected to the red wire from the battery box). Solder
the other black wire from this lamp to the header pins at the
bottom of the board, just to the left of the one from the large
red lamp.
6) Find the black wires connected to the green lamp. Refer
to the picture. Solder one black wire to the positive power
bus (connected to the red wire from the battery box). Solder
the other black wire from this lamp to the header pins at the
bottom of the board, just to the left of the one from the small
Step 25
yellow lamp.
24
Step 26 - Pushbutton wires
Note: The four pushbuttons along the
bottom of the front panel each have two
green wires. One of these green wires
will be soldered to the negative power
bus that connects to the black wire from
the battery box. The other green wire
from each pushbutton will connect to the
group of header pins at the bottom right
of the circuit board. Refer to the picture
and note where the green wires are
connected.
1) Identify the two green wires from the
small green pushbutton. Solder one
green wire to the negative power bus
near the top of the circuit board. Solder
the other green wire to one of the solder
pads that connect to one of the four
available header pins at the bottom left
of the circuit board.
2) Identify the two green wires from the
square red pushbutton. Solder one
green wire to the negative power bus
near the top of the circuit board. Solder
the other green wire to one of the solder
pads that connect to one of the three
remaining available header pins at the
bottom left of the circuit board.
3) Identify the two green wires from the
small red pushbutton. Solder one green
wire to the negative power bus near the
top of the circuit board. Solder the other
Step 26, 27, 28
green wire to one of the solder pads that
connect to one of the two remaining
available header pins at the bottom left
of the circuit board.
4) Identify the two green wires from the round red illuminated pushbutton. Solder one green wire to the negative power bus near the top
of the circuit board. Solder the other green wire to one of the solder pads that connect to the last remaining available header pins at the
bottom left of the circuit board.
Step 27 - Big toggle switch wires
Note: The DPDT toggle switches have brown wires connected to the pair of contacts on one side of the switch, purple wires on the pole
contacts, and gray wires connected to the pair of contacts on the other side of the switch. In this step, we will solder all the wires from
the big toggle to the circuit board. Refer to the picture for each step.
1) Identify the two brown wires coming from the big toggle switch. Solder the wires to the circuit board as shown.
2) Identify the two purple wires coming from the big toggle switch. Solder the wires to the circuit board as shown.
3) Identify the two gray wires coming from the big toggle switch. Solder the wires to the circuit board as shown.
Step 28 - Small red SPDT toggle wires
Note: The SPDT toggle switch has a brown wire connected to the contact on one side of the switch, a purple wire on the pole contact,
and a gray wire connected to the contact on the other side of the switch. In this step, we will solder all the wires from the small red
toggle to the circuit board. Refer to the picture for
each step.
1) Identify the brown wire coming from the small
red SPDT toggle switch. Solder the brown wire to
the circuit board as shown.
2) Identify the purple wire coming from the small
red SPDT toggle switch. Solder the purple wire to
the circuit board as shown.
3) Identify the gray wire coming from the small red
SPDT toggle switch. Solder the gray wire to the
circuit board as shown.
Step 29 - Snap-in plunger wires
Note: The white snap-in plunger is a SPDT switch.
Is has a red wire connected to the pole, which is
labeled 'COMMON'.
It has a blue wire connected to one contact labeled
'CLOSED', and a white wire connected to the other
Step 29
contact labeled 'OPEN'. In this step we will solder all
the wires from the snap-in plunger to the circuit board.
Refer to the picture for each step.
1) Solder the white wire to the circuit board as shown.
2) Solder the red wire to the circuit board as shown.
3) Solder the blue wire to the circuit board as shown.
Step 30 - Red rocker switch wires
Note: The red rocker is a DPST switch. Is has two
yellow wires connected one side of the switch, and
two orange wires connected to the other side of the
switch. In this step, we will solder all the wires from
the red rocker switch to the circuit board. Refer to the
picture for each step. In case it is not clear from the
picture, we are soldering each yellow-orange wire pair
to the solder pads that connect to a 2-pin header.
1) Solder the two yellow wires to the circuit board as
shown.
2) Solder the two orange wires to the circuit board as
shown.
Step 30
Step 31 - Round rocker switch wires
Note: The round rocker is a SPST switch. Is has a yellow wire connected one side of the switch, and an orange wire connected to the
other side of the switch. In this step we will solder all the wires from the round rocker switch to the circuit board. Refer to the picture for
each step. In case it is not clear from the picture, we are soldering the yellow-orange wire pair to the solder pads that connect to a 2-pin
header.
1) Solder the two yellow wires to the circuit board as shown.
2) Solder the two orange wires to the circuit board as shown.
Step 31, 32, 33, 34
Step 32 - Blue DPDT toggle wires
Note: The DPDT toggle switches have brown wires connected to the pair of contacts on one side of the switch, purple wires on the pole
contacts, and gray wires connected to the pair of contacts on the other side of the switch. In this step, we will solder all the wires from
the two medium sized DPDT toggles to the circuit board. Refer to the picture for each step. In case it is not clear from the picture, each
set of wires from one pole (purple) and its associated two contacts (one brown, one gray) are connected to the solder pads connecting
to a 3-pin header.
1) Pick one of the blue DPDT toggle switches (we'll call it 'blue toggle 1'). Identify one set of brown, purple and gray wires, all on the
same side of the switch. Solder these wires, each to its own solder pad, to connect them to the 3-pin header at the upper side of the
circuit board as shown.
2) Staying with blue toggle 1, identify the other set of brown, purple and gray wires. Solder each of those wires in turn so they connect
to the 3-pin header on the lower side of the circuit board, just below the first set, as shown.
3) Pick the other blue DPDT toggle switch (we'll call it 'blue toggle 2'). Identify one set of brown, purple and gray wires, all on the same
side of the switch. Solder these wires, each to its own solder pad, to connect them to the 3-pin header at the upper side of the circuit
board as shown.
4) Staying with blue toggle 2, identify the other set of brown, purple and gray wires. Solder each of those wires in turn so they connect
to the 3-pin header on the lower side of the circuit board, just below the first set, as shown.
Step 33 - Momentary DPDT with black vinyl cover
Note: The momentary DPDT switches will be used like the pushbuttons are, to provide a path to ground for the light circuits. Refer to
the picture for each step.
1) Locate the set of blue, red and white wires coming from one side of the black momentary DPDT toggle switch. Solder these wires as
shown at the top left of the circuit board, as shown.
2) Locate the set of blue, red and white wires coming from the other side of the black momentary DPDT toggle switch. Solder these
near the last set, leaving one space between, as shown in the picture.
Step 34 - Momentary DPDT with flat toggle and red body
Note: The momentary DPDT switches will be used like the pushbuttons are, to provide a path to ground for the light circuits. Refer to
the picture for each step.
1) Locate the set of blue, red and white wires coming from one side of the red momentary DPDT toggle switch. Solder these wires as
shown at the mid left of the circuit board, as shown.
2) Locate the set of blue, red and white wires coming from the other side of the red momentary DPDT toggle switch. Solder these near
the left bottom, leaving one space between this and the last set, as shown in the picture. Good news - you are DONE soldering!
Step 35 - Add jumpers for
momentary toggles
Note: Connecting the jumpers in
this and the next few steps is how
you "program" the box. You can reprogram it later by changing how
the connections are made. The
suggested connection instructions
should provide some fun results,
but you don't need to stick to them
exactly. Just keep in mind the
following:
 Each lamp is hardwired to
positive voltage from the
batteries; you light them by
providing a path to the ground
(the negative voltage connection)
via the buttons and switches.
 It is best to ensure that every
switch, button and lamp is used
somehow.
 You need at least one
momentary connection in each
Step 35
circuit. Otherwise you might
leave a lamp on indefinitely, and
run down the battery.
 Route connections through
switches in addition to momentary buttons/toggles in order to change how a circuit operates.
Note: Refer to the picture for each step. I removed the labels in the picture for all the connections so far, to try to simplify the diagram.
Only the jumpers for this step will be shown for each step.
1) Connect four jumper wires at the left side of the circuit board to the header pins that connect to the four red wires from the
momentary DPDT toggle switches.
2) Connect the other side of each of the four jumper wires to the one of the available header pins on the ground bus. This will provide a
path to ground through each of the momentary DPDT toggle switches.
Step 36 - Add more jumpers for momentary
toggles
Note: Refer to the picture for each step. I removed
the labels in the picture for all the connections so
far, to try to simplify the diagram. Only the jumpers
for this step will be shown for each step. Because it
is getting a bit confusing, each connection is
labeled with the associated step below.
1) Connect a jumper wire from position 1 shown in
the picture to the header pin connecting to the
orange wire that leads to the red rocker switch.
2) Connect a jumper wire from position 2 shown in
the picture to one of the header pins connecting to
the black wire that leads to the round red
illuminated pushbutton.
3) Connect a jumper wire from position 3 shown in
the picture to one of the header pins connecting to
the purple wire that leads to one of the poles of one
of the two blue DPDT toggle switches.
4) Connect a jumper wire from position 4 shown in the
picture to one of the header pins connecting to the
black wire that leads to the round red illuminated
pushbutton.
5) Connect a jumper wire from position 5 shown in the
picture to one of the header pins connecting to the
black wire that leads to the round red illuminated
pushbutton.
Step 37 - Add jumpers for the pushbuttons
Note: Refer to the picture for each step. I removed
the labels in the picture for all the connections so far,
to try to simplify the diagram. Only the jumpers for this
step will be shown for each step. Because it is getting
a bit confusing, each connection is labeled with the
associated step below.
1) Connect a jumper wire from position 1 shown in the
picture to the header pin connecting to the lower
purple wire that leads to the blue DPDT toggle switch.
2) Connect a jumper wire from position 2 shown in the
picture to one of the header pins connecting to the
purple wire that leads to the small red SPDT toggle
switch.
3) Connect a jumper wire from position 3 shown in the
picture to one of the header pins connecting to the
black wire that leads to the big red lamp.
4) Connect a jumper wire from position 4 shown in the
picture to one of the header pins connecting to the
purple wire that leads to the big toggle switch.
Step 36
Step 37
Step 38
Step 38 - Add jumpers for remaining top headers
Note: Refer to the picture for each step. I removed
the labels in the picture for all the connections so far,
to try to simplify the diagram. Only the jumpers for this
step will be shown for each step. Because it is getting
a bit confusing, each connection is labeled with the
associated step below.
1) Connect a jumper wire from position 1 shown in the
picture to the header pin connecting to one of the
black wires that leads to the lamps.
2) Connect a jumper wire from position 2 shown in the
picture to the header pin connecting to a second one
of the black wires that leads to the lamps.
3) Connect a jumper wire from position 3 shown in the
picture to one of the header pins connecting to the
black wire that leads to the big red lamp.
4) Connect a jumper wire from position 4 shown in the picture to the header pin connecting to a third one of the black wires that leads to
the lamps.
Step 39 - Add jumpers for the remaining bottom
headers
Step 39
Note: Refer to the picture for each step. I removed
the labels in the picture for all the connections so far,
to try to simplify the diagram. Only the jumpers for this
step will be shown for each step. Because it is getting
a bit confusing, each connection is labeled with the
associated step below. This is the last step in
"programming" the box. After this, you're just about
finished!
1) Connect a jumper wire from position 1 shown in the
picture to the header pin connecting to one of the
black wires that leads to the lamps.
2) Connect a jumper wire from position 2 shown in the
picture to the header pin connecting to one of the
black wire that leads to the same lamp as in the last
step.
3) Connect a jumper wire from position 3 shown in the
picture to the header pin connecting to one of the
black wire that leads to the same lamp as in the last
two steps.
4) Connect a jumper wire from position 4 shown in the
picture to the header pin connecting to a second one
of the black wires that leads to the lamps.
5) Connect a jumper wire from position 5 shown in the picture to the header pin connecting to a third one of the black wires that leads to
the lamps.
6) Connect a jumper wire from position 6 shown in the picture to the header pin connecting to a forth one of the black wires that leads to
the lamps.
7) Connect a jumper wire from position 7 shown in the picture to the header pin connecting to the same black wire that leads to the
lamp you connected in step 5 above.
8) Connect a jumper wire from position 8 shown in the picture to the header pin connecting to the same black wire that leads to the
lamp you connected in step 4 above. That's it! No more tiny connections to make!
Step 40 - Finishing
1) Add AA batteries to the battery holder. Test out your box before moving on from here. If it isn't working, go back and troubleshoot.
2) Position the battery holder on one side of the project box. Test that you can fit the circuit board and wires and shut the lid. Secure the
battery holder in place firmly with the double sided sticky tape.
3) Carefully route the wires as neatly as you can, and close up the box. Screw it shut with the four screws that came with the project
box.
4) Have fun!