Sticky Ignition Key Fix!!
Vehicle:
Chrysler Crossfire
Tools Needed:
10 mm socket, 8mm socket, Phillips Head Screwdriver
Tools Optional:
Vice Grip, 10mm monkey wrench, drill with ¼” bit, Dremel
tool, Center Punch, Hammer, Explosives
Time Required:
As much as possible. I didn’t really watch the clock.
Parts:
Lock assembly Mercedes Part #A 202 460 09 04
1.) Disconnect the negative battery terminal with 10mm socket.
2.) Remove the fuse panel access door to the left of the steering wheel, in the door jam area.
3.) Remove the air vent above the headlight switch. It just pops out. You can push it out from the back side.
4.) Remove the lower trim panels. First remove the "U" shaped panel below the steering wheel (one screw). This gives
you access to 2 hidden screws which need to be removed.
5.) Next remove the one screw hidden behind the access door to the fuse panel, then the screws around the hood release
lever.
6.) Then remove the 4 screws holding the lower panel, some are hidden in recesses using a Phillips screwdriver.
7.) Then remove the remaining 2 screws holding the lower panel with an 8mm socket.
8.) Gently pry down on the panel and it will pop down. If it doesn't pop down, you probably missed a screw somewhere.
9.) Next remove the transponder ring (chrome and rubber ring) surrounding the key hole. I held it on the bottom with my
thumb in the center and pulled towards me and wiggled up and down. It has a wire connected to it and can safely hang
out of the way.
10.) Now insert your key and turn it to the right to the first click (position 1). Hold the key in this position and grab the
black cylinder and rotate it counterclockwise about 90 degrees and the key tumblers will come out. The black cylinder can
be very difficult to turn. If you can’t get the cylinder to turn with your fingers, then use a vice grip or other suitable tool
to turn it. Make sure you don’t turn the key with the vice grip, just the cylinder.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6ELmmbewk8
If you are one of the unlucky ones and your key won’t turn at all, Skip to Key Won’t Turn, Once you finish those steps
come back to step 11.
11.) Remove the electrical connector with two small wires (this is the key warning buzzer, the connector goes in either
way.
12.) Remove the parking interlock with the large black cable. This will require pinching the two black tabs at the rear of
the connector.
13.) Now reach behind the assembly and you will feel the main electric harness connector. Pull and rock this toward the
front of the car until it comes free. I couldn’t get a picture of it still connected but this is what it looks like after it’s
disconnected.
14.) Remove the screw to the right of the key hole to free up the upper panel. This will allow you to pry up the upper
panel for access to remove the lock assembly.
15.) Next loosen the strap clamp with the 10mm bolt holding the assembly.
16.) Then locate the locking pin which is hidden under a trim piece next to the steering column. If you pry with a
screwdriver and use a flash light you will see it. Rotate the assembly counter-clockwise while pushing the silver locking
pin in and pull it to the right and its out! If you had to drill out the locking pin, then you don’t have to push the locking
pin in. Just turn it and pull it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLF5si‐00r8
17.) Now you can continue on this guide or skip down to Re-Using Old Assembly
18.) The assembly process is basically the reverse of removal but I did learn a few tips. The new assembly comes without
the key warning sensor so you need to save and reuse the old one. It has a small locking pin making it difficult to slide
out. I tried to lift the pin and slide it out with no success. Then I realized I didn't need to save the old assembly so I used
a Dremel tool to cut the old housing and lift the assembly out. Then it slid into the new housing easily.
I do not have pictures for this step as I did not have to do it. Credit to drhrsh
19.) Take the old assembly out to a field and blow it up.
Tips:
1.)When reinserting the key and black cylinder the flat on the black cylinder needs to line up with the white nylon portion
of the assembly. Then you can push it in and rotate it clockwise to lock it in place.
2.) Also when reinstalling the transponder ring the part where the wire comes out needs to line up with the flat spot on
the black cylinder for it to pop into place.
3.) Don't forget to replace the one screw you removed from the top panel (I did!) before replacing the lower panels.
4.) The front upper edge of the lower panel snaps into place, then lift the back edge (toward the front of the car) and
secure one screw to hold it in place. Then just button up the rest!
Key Won’t Turn
So your key won’t turn to position 1. You’ll have to drill out the locking pin. You can use a drill with a 1/4” drill bit or a
dremel tool with a grinding stone. It’s about 1/8” think pin of very shiny metal, but it’s not case-hardened and will be nice
and flat in about minutes. This is easier said than done. Now return to step 11 above.
Re-Using Old Assembly
1.) Once you have the entire assembly out, you will see a spring loaded hatch near the end of the shaft. Just open this
hatch and take out the spring and pin then close the hatch. I used a Center Punch and hammer to open the hatch.
By hitting the middle of the hatch, the sides will curve. Be-careful when opening the hatch, the spring can hit you in
the eye. To close it just turn the hatch so it’s curving the other way and hammer it flat. Don’t have a pic of the
spring and pin cause I threw it away a long time ago.
2.) The assembly process is basically the reverse of removal. Just tighten that bolt on that clamp thing, but not too tight
that the bolt snaps in half.
3.) Here is a picture of the pin and spring that was removed from the hatch. Thanx to snakewolf for this picture.
Author: Rekcah