AMC ADVENTURE TRAVEL Summer Hiking in Patagonia January 19 – February 2, 2011 Hello! We are delighted that you are interested in this exciting trip. We’ve put together a great itinerary that starts in the Andean backcountry and ends in urban Buenos Aires. It blends a remote environment/experience with some comforts that should make it appealing to a wider audience. The timeframe allows us to miss the holiday season crowds, yet maximize the potential for good weather….more on that aspect later! The recent earthquake in Chile has not affected the trip. Torres del Paine NP French Valley Torres (Towers) Los Glaciares NP Perito Moreno Glacier Mt. Fitz Roy Buenos Aires Summer Hiking in Patagonia The prospectus is quite complete, but feel free to contact us by e-mail or telephone to discuss your questions and concerns: Phil Mecagni CL pmecagni@hotmail.com; 508-435-5172 Len Weiss L lenweiss@rcn.com; 617-277-8403 We expect that most group correspondence will be by e-mail. Both of us have traveled together before, including one other major excursion, and we have another planned for September 2010. For general questions about the AMC’s Major Excursions go to http://www.outdoors.org/recreation/majorexcursions/index.cfm Summary of the Excursion (see pages 12 and 13 for the itinerary) 7 magnificent days of trekking in pristine Andean wilderness areas of the Chilean and Argentine Patagonia o 4 days on the W route (the shape the trail makes) in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, with its towers and horns o 3 days in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, with the advancing Glaciar Perito Moreno and the Fitz Roy Range. o room and board in campsites and hosterias o no backpacking and technical equipment a wonderful 3 nights/2 days in Buenos Aires o sightseeing, dining and tango o accommodations in a quality hotel 5 days are dedicated to travel o day 2 is a particularly long day 14 participants plus the 2 leaders English-speaking guides throughout 2 internal flights; private van ground transportation $4,675 est., virtually all inclusive, except international airfare (est. $1,400) and personal discretionary spending You and the Nature of the Trip Accompanied by our English-speaking guides from BlueGreen Adventures (http://www.bluegreenadventures.com), we will visit two of Patagonia’s remote national parks, and take in the urban qualities of Buenos Aires. This trip is designed for people who have the fitness, skills and interest to hike upwards of 10 miles/day, in moderate to challenging terrain and elevation change, at a moderate pace over moderately strenuous terrain. You’ll appreciate great day hiking, spectacular scenery and learning about the area and the natural history from our guides. Conservatism suggests that you should be able to demonstrate to the leaders an “intermediate” level of fitness, skills and experience. It needs to be stressed, that while enjoying the hiking, you also should be prepared for Page 2 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia stops to learn, appreciate, take pictures, and observe. If you prefer uninterrupted, fastpaced hiking, this is not the trip for you. On the other hand, you will not feel that the learning takes away from the hiking – be assured, this is an active hiking trip. Despite the summer season, Patagonian weather is highly unpredictable. You must appreciate the risks and mitigation of hypothermia. Wind and rain together is almost certain to happen occasionally and for extended periods. Snow is a possibility. Three nights are at campsites, in tents, and dining alfresco. Nearby refugios may provide some emergency convenience, but are not being relied on. Goretex jacket and pants and fully-waterproof boots (that you know are effective beforehand) are not optional, as are hats that cover your ears, gloves, and gaiters. Beyond appropriate clothing, and a day pack, no technical gear is needed. A recommended clothing and equipment list is attached as page 14, and the outfitter’s website also has recommendations. You should be curious about other cultures and comfortable traveling in areas unfamiliar to you. Recognize that you’ll no doubt be in closer quarters or less comfortable surroundings than you are used to. The trip is for you if you like being part of a group, and are a team player, willing to help your fellow travelers and contribute to their having a great time. While we will miss the holiday season, it is still high season, so there will still be crowds, but not by the standards we find in United States national parks. BlueGreen Adventures We have chosen BlueGreen Adventures (http://www.bluegreenadventures.com) as our outfitter (with mostly Chilean guides) to address a number of challenges to a successful experience for participants, including: foreign language cultural and customs awareness ground transportation issues - roads, public transit schedules and vehicle quality o we will be transported in 12-passenger vans accommodations reservation system route and meal planning knowledge of history and environment national park permitting process minimizing required gear and equipment safety and emergency procedures We are confident that their guides and staff will enhance the trip. They provided some booking services for an AMC backpacking major excursion in 2008/2009, and we have reference checked their performance with other clients on trips similar to ours. Page 3 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia BlueGreen believes their staff:client ratio is probably the highest in the area, so we should be well taken care of. In the backcountry, we will have a team of 2 guides, plus cooks, assistants and drivers. In Buenos Aires we will have a different team. There will be 2 vehicles throughout. Their safety record is excellent, and they carry liability insurance. Please visit their website…..it contains wealth of relevant information about them and the trip. Additional Information and References The long, western Andean spine of Patagonia divides Argentina and Chile. Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is in the Magallanes region of Chilean Patagonia. Paine (pronounced “pie-nee”) is a Tehuelche Indian word meaning “blue”. Parque Nacional Los Glaciares lies in the Santa Cruz province of the Southern Argentine Patagonia region. Buenos Aires, on the Atlantic Coast, is often compared to Paris, France. Torres soaring granite spires demonstrate its alpine majesty. It has an integrated network of hiking trails, well suited to day hiking. There are endangered species, such as wild guanacos. The park is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Its most famous natural features are Torres (Towers) del Paine and Cuernos (Horns) del Paine, both of which are on the W route. Los Glaciares, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a huge area of slowly flowing ice that gives rise to lakes and rivers. The Moreno Glacier and the FitzRoy Range are its best know features. Wildlife includes the endangered, but rarely seen, huemul (a deer). You are encouraged to learn about the trip before we arrive on site. Local book shops, outdoor stores or web retailers are the source of guidebooks, maps and other resources. Web based resources include: http://www.torresdelpaine.com/ingles/index.asp http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torres_del_Paine_National_Park http://www.gochile.cl/eng/Guide/ChileNationalParks/TorresdelPaine/Torres-delPaine-FotoTour.asp http://www.losglaciares.com/en/index.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Glaciares_National_Park Weekend in Buenos Aires - NYTimes.com.htm US Department of State –Chile http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1088.html US Department of State- Argentina http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1130.html Page 4 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia Travel/Activity/Accommodations/Meals Itinerary Please see pages 12 and 13 for the specifics. Due to weather and other conditions, there is a possibility that our itinerary could be changed before and during the trip. The initial two days of the trip will be long and tiring, covering big distances and lots of hours. Our flights from the United States should arrive in Santiago early in the morning; the international airport there is situated next to the domestic airport, so it is an easy transfer. We can schedule a morning flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas (just under 4 hours for non-stop flights, a little longer if we touch down in Puerto Montt). The drive from Punta Arenas airport to Puerto Natales is about 3 hours, arriving in time for dinner. The choice was made after considering other alternatives that would have lengthened and added to the cost of the trip, or reduced its backcountry content. While it doesn’t make it any easier, BlueGreen tells us this itinerary is quite common amongst their clients. Accommodations We will be in a variety of accommodations. Hotels in front country areas are quite nice. Backcountry living in Torres del Paine will be in campsites and a hosteria (lodging house), and in a hosteria in Los Glaciares. Unless indicated otherwise, sleeping quarters have been reserved for two people per room. We will do our best to allocate based on couple-preferences and same-sex orientation. If you prefer, we can look into single accommodations (and an attendant monetary supplement) at the time of your commitment, but there is no guarantee of such availability. The campsites we are staying at are fully-supported by the outfitter, with “usually” hot showers, flush toilets, and food and drink available at adjacent refugios (a mountain cabin with bunk-style sleeping, made of wood and built for minimum environmental impact). While it is possible to eat in the refugios, our meals will be taken at the campsite. Any meals you take at a refugio will be a personal discretionary expense. Participants usually set up their comfortable, threeperson tents that are able to withstand the frequent high winds in the area. The maximum occupancy in these tents is two, so consequently they are quite spacious. We chose campsites rather than refugios for a variety of factors and conditions, including experiential, financial, weather, comfort, privacy, and the advice of the outfitter. Obviously, this choice exposes us to the vagaries of the variable weather conditions, but on the whole we felt campsites would be an overwhelmingly positive experience. Page 5 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia Hosteria el Pionero is a converted estancia (traditional sheep farm that added tourism to the revenue stream). It is in the style of an English colonial home and close to the Argentine border, which eases the next day’s transfer to el Calafate. The accommodation is comfortable twin share with en suite facilities, a good restaurant, pretty gardens and fireside bars. When we visit Los Glaciares and Fitz Roy, we will be based in the town of El Chalten at Hosteria Infinito Sur. And we’ll finish in Buenos Aires at the Abasto Plaza Hotel. Air Transportation You are responsible for making and paying for international air flights. The leaders will assist participants in this regard. Flight time recommendations will be determined at a later date, but it will be very important to plan to arrive in Santiago well before the departing flight to Punta Arenas. The leaders will arrange the two internal air flights for the group. Valerie Paul, a travel agent and an AMC Major Excursion leader, has offered to help us. You can contact her at valerie.paul@gmail.com; 508-561-8097. Meals Campsite breakfast and dinner will be prepared for you in a dining tent used for eating meals and cooking. Sometimes we may choose to eat in a camp shelter or around the campfire, weather permitting. Lunch items are laid out at breakfast and you make up your trail lunch. Campsite dinners are varied and wholesome and include fresh salmon and local fish, pasta, chicken, beef, lamb and some local Chilean meals. Fresh salad is served every night. Local wine is served with dinner. Lunches consist of sandwiches (for example, tuna, cheese, ham, peanut butter, salami), fresh fruit, trail mix, chocolate, biscuits, snacks Page 6 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia and so on. Breakfast is normally hot and cold cereals, toast, jams, marmalade, coffee, tea and juice. At times, a cooked breakfast is served. In hotels and hosterias, meals will be eaten in the restaurant. Food will consist of lamb, beef, chicken or salmon with fresh vegetables or salad accompanied by rice or potatoes. Wine, beer and snacks are available for purchase at a reasonable cost throughout the trip. Vegetarians, and other dietary concerns can be well catered for, and you should indicate your requirements in the application. Bear in mind that some specialist foodstuffs may be hard to find in-country. Anyone wishing to bring special foodstuffs into the country should check on the appropriate government website before entering Chile to make sure it isn't a prohibited substance. Chile is considerably restrictive – past experience says foodstuffs will be confiscated when you land. We are aware of a person who was fined $150 for having jerky. In the end, it is possible that some dietary conditions may not be able to be accommodated. Patagonia is a culture largely founded on the farming of sheep. Meat, especially lamb, is a staple for most people in the area. It is very likely that we will get to enjoy a lamb or meat asado (gaucho barbeque). While alternative food is available for the non-meat eaters, you should be aware that you may witness meat being prepared. If this is something you would find hard to tolerate, please note this in the application. Luggage/Packing Again, a clothing and equipment list is on page 13 and the outfitter’s website. During the days in Torres del Paine (a one way hike) anything not carried on your back will be borne on the backs of pack horses or porters, depending on water levels and other considerations. For this reason, please minimize what you bring and pack such in a softsided duffel bag; no structured suitcases or bags are permissible. In turn, your bags will be put in waterproof stuff sacks supplied by the outfitter. The guide will address any “overpacking” issues. It would be best to avoid such encounters, and any “overflow” luggage will be left in the vans, where security could be an issue. Other Pre-trip activities have not been planned. We will consider them as the composition and location of the group is determined. Page 7 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia Trip Leadership Len Weiss is a long-time AMC member, a Boston Chapter leader in a number of activities, and a ME coleader. In February 2008 he co-led an alpine and Nordic skiing excursion to St. Moritz, Switzerland. He is an experienced hiker and multi-day backpacker; this past summer he did a multi-day backpack in Wyoming’s Wind River Range and Grand Teton National Park. His longest trek was nine days across California’s Sierra Nevadas, and the remotest was a bush plane fly-in/flyout in Alaska’s Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. He also enjoys mountain and road biking, Nordic skiing, basketball and rugby. Len is Advanced Wilderness First Aid and CPR certified, and has completed Level 1 avalanche hazard training. Phil Mecagni too is a long-time member of the AMC. He has been active leader in numerous club committees; Hiking, Cycling, Fall Leadership Training, and Cardigan Backcountry Ski Workshops. He completed Major Excursion training in 2000. Since then, he has led international trips to Italy, Switzerland, Germany and Canada. He has led 6 ME bike trips and has cycled in Europe on several private trips. Trip Cost There will be 14 participants, plus Phil and Len. The estimated cost of $4,675 is virtually all inclusive, except (i) international airfare to Santiago and from Buenos Aires (est. $1,400), (ii) transportation to and from your home airports and (iii) personal discretionary spending. The estimated cost will cover the following items: all accommodations and camping equipment all meals upon arrival in Chile and departure from Argentina, except o two lunches, one the day we fly to Buenos Aires, the other while we tour the city o alcoholic beverages snacks (granola bars, chocolate, biscuits, etc.) two internal air flights private van ground transportation English-speaking guides park entrance fees emergency medical and evacuation insurance coverage AMC Major Excursion fee of 20% of land costs towards the administrative expenses of the program in accordance with AMC policy, subsidization of the leaders’ costs The estimated cost for the excursion is based on (i) BlueGreen’s US$ quote at the time the trip was submitted to the Major Excursions Committee in January 2010 and (ii) an Page 8 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia estimate of the two internal airfares. About 50% of BlueGreen’s costs are paid in US$. They commit to this pricing only after we make a deposit, and they carry exchange rate fluctuation and other pricing change risk. Our exposure is limited to the period between now and the time a deposit is made. BlueGreen has said the pricing is based on expected 2011 facility rates, and the exchange rate was US$ 1: CLP 500 at the time of their proposal. International and domestic airfare costs remain volatile. An early sign-up and deposit is obviously the best assurance to solidify the pricing. Regardless, financial exposure does remain. Accordingly, the final cost of the trip will be adjusted in accordance with the final pricing we can best negotiate with BlueGreen, and internal airfare costs at the time of booking. Any savings we achieve, as well as any cost increases, will be passed back to you. Personal discretionary spending would include the two lunches and other meals and beverages, if any, not taken with the group, alcoholic beverages and bottled water, equipment not provided by the outfitter, any single-room supplements, gratuities, snacks beyond that which the outfitter provides, other activities you might pursue on your own, and trip cancellation insurance (discussed later). It is customary, but optional, to tip the outfitter’s personnel; this will be at your personal discretion. The outfitter suggests a per person gratuity of between $40 and $60 for the backcountry portion and $20 to $30 for Buenos Aires. The collective group gratuities will be presented by one of the leaders to the lead guides. Application Process If you decide that you would like to sign up for this excursion, let us know by e-mail or give us a call. We will e-mail you an Application, mandatory Confidential Health Questionnaire, optional Confidential Supplemental Medical Questionnaire, and Acknowledgement and Assumption of Risk and Release and Indemnity Agreement. A reservation deposit of $1,000 per person is due with your Application (make your check payable to the Appalachian Mountain Club). The check and release signature page must be snail mailed to Len at the address shown on the Application. The remaining forms also may be included or returned to him by e-mail. After we receive your application, we will talk to you about your hiking experience and other matters to ascertain your ability to participate successfully on this trip. We want to be sure that we can adequately provide for your needs in our backcountry locations. In that regard, we will share your medical information with the outfitter. We will notify you of our decision. At that point, we will deposit or return your check; moneys deposited will be used to cover trip expenses incurred on your behalf. The balance of $3,675 is due $1,875 on July 1 and $1,800 on October 1, 2010. Page 9 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia When registration is complete, the trip leaders will send all participants the names, addresses and phone numbers of those going on the trip. Cancellation/Cancellation Insurance A refund of amounts paid will be given to the extent that it does not raise the cost of the trip to the other participants and leaders. If your spot is filled from a waiting list, then you would be entitled to a refund of amounts paid, less a $50 administration fee and prior expenditures that are not transferable. If your spot cannot be filled, then you will receive a refund for part that part of the trip that can be cancelled by the leaders. BlueGreen’s cancellation penalties are significant. Given the size of the financial risk of cancellation, we highly recommend “optional” trip cancellation insurance. It is available through a variety of programs, including one available from the AMC. You decide on your own, and handle this directly with the sponsor. Based upon your response in the application, and subject to you being accepted on the trip, we will send information on the program offered by the AMC. Risks and Mitigation Ground Transportation – National park roads are mostly unpaved and some are dusty and bumpy. In addition, the distances between sites can be great, and driving times long. Highway travel between Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales and the entry to Torres del Paine has improved, reducing transit times. BlueGreen has been operating ground transportation for 13 years without a single accident. They employ their own fully-qualified and certified drivers, and operate their own fleet of 12-passenger Ford Econline vehicles that carry the appropriate and relevant Chilean insurance and have passed the local vehicle checks necessary for carrying clients. Air Transportation – Major international carriers service Santiago and Buenos Aires. We will have two internal flights on internal domestic carriers. Trails - Nothing unusual expected. See You and the Nature of the Trip. Wildlife - Pumas are the only dangerous animal and they tend to stay well clear of human activity. BlueGreen Adventures has advised us that there are no documented incidents involving tourists, although the Moon Handbook claims there has been one! Climate – Reinforcing the concern for weather, it can be notoriously unkind – wet, cloudy and closed in. It can also be extremely windy. Torres del Paine has a milder and drier microclimate than the surrounding areas because of its unique geological features. The weather, however, is (in)famously unpredictable and it is possible to experience four seasons in a few hours. Average daily temperatures vary, but in summer expect 50 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, with the occasional hot day of 85 degrees. Temperatures can drop to freezing at night, and high winds are common. Snow and hail can occur in summer! Page 10 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia You must be mentally and physically prepared to accept these conditions….and remember we camp for three nights. Planned itineraries may be changed as circumstances warrant. Foreign Country – As of January 2010, there are no specific foreign country risks reported by the United States State Department. The leaders will monitor this status. Health and Security Risks - Consult your physician to see what, if any, vaccinations and medicines are recommended for your travel to Chile and Argentina. In the event of serious accident or illness, evacuation is by either helicopter (which cannot fly in very high winds) or by vehicle (where possible) or horse. Guides will have an extensive first-aid kit, and carry hand radios; there is no email or mobile phone signal in Torres de Paine. Torres del Paine is about a six-hour drive from the nearest hospital with a trauma care facility (Punta Arenas). There is a small hospital in Puerto Natales (three hours) with 24-hour medical assistance that can deal with minor injuries and illnesses. Emergency medical transportation and evacuation costs are exorbitant, and most U.S. medical insurance plans provide little or no coverage. The policy that is included with your trip fee is through TripMate™ and includes $100,000 for emergency medical evacuation. It also includes an additional $5,000 for accident and sickness medical expense, which would supplement anyone’s personal medical insurance. Regardless, participants should have their own medical insurance. During backcountry travel, water is sourced from rivers, streams and lakes. This water is clean and pure and is about as close to the source as is possible. BlueGreen has never had any problems with any client drinking this water (there are no communities in the parks to contaminate the water and there are no tropical water-borne diseases such as giardia). If however you do not feel confident, we recommend bringing chemical treatment or a filter in your personal gear. Also, bottled water is available for purchase at refugios, hotels, campsites, etc. We don’t believe that our course of travel will expose us to security or biological concerns any greater than we are accustomed to experiencing in the United States. Sincerely, Phil and Len Page 11 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia Summer Hiking in Patagonia Summary Itinerary 2011 Wed Travel Activity Fly from US overnight None Arrive Santiago Connecting flight to Dinner Trip briefing Accommodations Meals None None Hotel Temauken (http://www.temauken. cl/ingles/index.html) D Pehoe campsite B, L, D Cuernos campsite B, L, D Campsite near Las Torres B, L, D Hosteria el Pionero http://www.torres-delpaine.org/torres-delpaine-hosteriapionero.html Hotel Kapenke (http://www.kapenke.c om.ar/default.html) B, L, D 1/19 Thu 1/20 Fri 1/21 Sat Punta Arenas Ground transfer (241km) to Puerto Natales Ground transfer to Grey Lake in Torres del Paine N.P (approx. 1.5 hours, 112 km) Grey II launch towards the None None 1/22 Sun 1/23 Mon After hiking, ground transfer to the hosteria 1/24 Tue Ground transfer to el Calafate, Argentina (305k) 1/25 Page 12 of 15 Grey Glacier Walk up to the Grey Glacier lookout Picnic lunch Hike to Pehoe Lake Hike into French Valley and along the shores of Lake Nordenskjold Views of the Horns Hike through foothills of Paine Massif along the shores of Lake Nordenskjold towards the Towers. Classic and challenging hike to base of the Towers Drinks, hot showers/baths, then dinner Stop en route at the Perito Moreno Glacier - walk the trails and admire the views Dinner in one of the town's many fine steak restaurants B, L, D Summer Hiking in Patagonia Wed Enjoy scenic viewing 1/26 Ground transfer to el Chalten (Mountain That Smokes), gateway for the Los Glaciares National Park and the FitzRoy range Thu None Choice of hike. B, L, D None Choice of hike. B, L, D during transfer. Explore el Calafate, Hosteria Infinito Sur B, L, D (http://www.infinitos urelchalten.com/eng/ inicio.php) 1/27 Fri 1/28 Sat Ground transfer to el 1/29 Calafate Flight to Buenos Aires Ground transfer to hotel Sun None Evening exploration and dinner. Hotel Abasto Plaza B, D (http://www.abastopl aza.com.ar/english.ht ml) City tour, including famous monuments and museums. Hotel Abasto Plaza B, D Hotel Abasto Plaza B, L, D Ground transfer to airport for flights to US None B Arrive US None 1/30 Mon None Tigre delta to admire the homes of Argentina's elite and walk the tree lined streets. Lunch in riverside restaurant Last night's dinner and tango show. 1/31 Tue 2/1 Wed Day trip to the famous 2/2 Page 13 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia Summer Hiking in Patagonia Recommended Clothing and Equipment Page 14 of 15 Summer Hiking in Patagonia Technical Clothing first-layer underwear - s/s and l/s tops and short and long bottoms synthetic hiking pants/shorts (or convertible pants) mid- and heavy- weight insulating shirts/sweaters/pants liner and outer sock combinations – at least 2 pair outer shell jacket with hood and pants (wind and water proof) – no ponchos various weights of gloves/mittens and liners (wind and water proof) gaiters (if your pants don’t provide adequate protection, or you wear shorts) insulating hat that has full ear protection, balaclava brimmed hat/bandana for sun protection Personal credit/debit cards passport (and copies of your id page) medications personal first aid kit health insurance card spare eyeglasses, contacts toiletries, hand sanitizer and towel headlamp or flashlight toilet paper and trowel zip-lock bags to pack-out waste Optional smaller day pack, when not on trail foam pad (for trail stops) camera and film binoculars or scope stainless steel thermos (for hot trail drinks) Tupperware (so you don’t crush lunch) journal and writing material snacks (to be purchased in-country) water purification treatment or filter foam sleeping pad; pillow Spanish/English dictionary current converter Page 15 of 15 Technical Equipment 2,000 to 3,000 cu” backpack (and cover, bag liners) to carry 2 quarts of water, extra clothing layers, rain gear, lunch/snacks, hat & gloves, flashlight or headlamp, and other personal gear broken-in hiking boots (preferably waterproof and over-ankle) - best to not pack boots in checked luggage! hiking poles, if preferred hydration system or water bottles – no less than 2 quarts sun screen and lip balm with SPF and UV protection sun glasses or glacier goggles with UV protection insect repellent Group Gear supplied by outfitter medical kit communications equipment sleeping bags tents Non-active gear personal choice of casual clothing and foot wear soft-sided luggage for extra stuff Optional (cont’d) waterproof matches/lighter whistle knife/combo tool compass/GPS bathing suit field guides and maps ear plugs reading material camp footwear repair kit carabiners playing cards and games spare batteries; device chargers