AMC Major Excursion
A Bulgarian adventure - Balkan High Peaks and Monasteries
August 22 – September 1, 2009
Come explore these little known gems of Southeastern Europe with us – the spectacular mountainous
regions and picturesque monasteries of Bulgaria. Experienced hikers with a love for varied mountain
scenery and an interest in foreign cultures and history will find this trip a delightful adventure. We
mix 6 days of mountain hiking with 3 days of cultural sightseeing, so that you will come away with a
rich appreciation of a fascinating country that not many Americans have visited. Your leaders are both
from Eastern Europe, and one is a native of Bulgaria. We are eager to share this special place with you.
Founded in 681, Bulgaria is one of the oldest states in Europe. It is a small country of 7.5 million
inhabitants, located on the Balkan Peninsula, the crossroad between Europe and Asia. Much of it
remains largely untouched by foreign visitors. The networks of well-maintained hiking trails lead you
to Bulgaria’s scenic mountainous and forested landscapes, still home to animals now scarce in Europe,
such as bears, lynx, and rare birds. Centuries old multicolored monasteries are filled with fabulous
icons and wooden carvings. In historic villages, with timber-framed buildings and stone-tiled roofs,
people still live a traditional agrarian lifestyle. We will experience highlights of what this varied
country has to offer, including two of Bulgaria’s nine UNESCO world heritage sites: Rila Monastery
and Pirin National Park
Tentative Itinerary
Day 1 Saturday August 22
Arrival at Sofia Airport; transfer to hotel.
If time permits we may have a narrated bus tour around the city.
We recommend that you take an overnight flight from the US on Friday evening (August
21) to arrive in Sofia by mid-afternoon. We will provide help with finding the best flights.
Meal: Welcome dinner at a local restaurant
Lodging: Hotel Madrid, double occupancy room with showers.
Sofia – the building of the national theater
The Cathedral St. Alexaneder Nevski in Sofia
Day 2 Sunday August 23
After breakfast a bus will take us to the Rila mountains, location of the highest peak in the
Balkan Peninsula, Moussala at 9596 ft. Hike: We hike to Skakavitsa hut for lunch (6154 ft),
then take a half hour walk to the spectacular Skakavitsa waterfall. After enjoying the
waterfall, we’ll continue the hike up the beautiful cirque with seven terraced lakes, arriving
at our evening destination, the Seven Rila Lakes hut (7217 ft), situated on the shores of the
sixth lake. We check in at the hut, and then walk a short distance to observe the festivities of
the “Dunovists” or “the white brotherhood”. You will have a rare chance to glimpse this
unique annual gathering which involves singing, dancing and live music. (see the resources
section for links to more information). Total walking time: approx 4 hours 30 minutes;
approx elev. gain 1500 ft.
Meals: Breakfast in Sofia restaurant. Lunch and dinner at the huts.
Lodging: Seven Rila Lakes hut – double rooms, shared showers (if working).
Seven Rila Lakes Hut
Day 3 – August 24, 2009, Monday
The Dunovists – horo
We start the day with a climb up the picturesque cirque of the Seven Rila Lakes to Razdela
Col (8415 ft above sea level). After a coffee/tea break at the hut in Razdela Col, we traverse
the scenic Malyovitsa ridge, across a series of peaks: Damga Peak (8756 ft), Dodov Peak
(8730 ft) and Malyovitsa peak (8953 ft), ending with a steep descent to Malyovitsa hut (6430
ft). Total walking time: approx 6 hours; approx elev. gain 1500 ft.
Meals: Breakfast at Seven Rila Lakes hut/packed lunch. Dinner at Malyovitsa Hut.
Lodging: Malyovitsa Hut, shared rooms, shared showers on the floor.
Malyovitsa Hut
Day 4 – August 25, 2009, Tuesday
After hiking down from the hut, we take a bus ride to Borovets, the most famous ski resort
in the country, very quiet and beautiful in the summer. The gondola lift ride up to
Yastrebets peak (7769 ft above sea level) offers breathtaking views. From here, we walk
along an almost horizontal gradient to Mousalla hut (7837 ft above sea level), where in
about an hour we stop for a coffee/tea break. Then we hike through the Mousalla cirque
with its several lakes. The highest one, the Ice Lake, is very impressive. Finally, we summit
the highest peak of the Balkan peninsula, Mousalla (9596 ft above sea level). Total walking
time: approx. 6.5 hours, approx elev. gain 1800 ft.
Meals: breakfast at Malyovitsa hut/packed lunch. Dinner in a restaurant in Borovets.
Lodging: Hotel in Borovets
Mousalla Peak – 9596 ft
Day 5 – August 26, 2009, Wednesday
Bus ride to Malyovitsa car park, from where we walk up to Malyovitsa Hut. After a quick
break at the hut, we hike to the Strashnoto ezero (The Scary Lake). Lunch at the lake, while
enjoying the awesome views that inspired the name of the location. After lunch we traverse
Popova kapa (Priest Hat) peak and descend via Suhoto lake (Dry lake) to Kirilova polyana
(Cyril’s meadow). Cold drinks at Kirilova polyana café. Transport with our bus to Rila
Monastery. Free time to hang around the monastery before dinner. Total walking time:
approx. 6 hours, approx elev. gain 1660 ft.
Rila Monastery was founded in the 10th century by St John of Rila and is on the UNESCO
World Heritage List. It is richly decorated and famous for its frescoes and wood carvings.
Rila Monastery
Meals: Breakfast in Borovets, packed lunch provided. Dinner at the monastery’s restaurant.
Lodging: Overnight at the Rila Monastery! Nice triple rooms with en suite bathroom.
Excellent sleeping with the gentle sounds of the Drushlyavitsa river just below the
monastery wall.
The Scary Lake (Strashnoto Ezero)
Day 6 – August 27, 2009, Thursday
A day dedicated to culture and social life. Breakfast of famous monastery pancakes and
Bulgarian yogurt. After some additional time at the monastery, the church and the museum,
we board our bus for the drive through Blagoevgrad, and on to Razlog and Dobarsko.
Dobarsko is a typical mountain village, perched 3510 ft above sea level, on the edge of the
Rila mountains. It overlooks the Pirin and Rodopi mountains, which stretch to the horizon.
We will visit an old Eastern Orthodox church noted for its abundance of original frescoes
and icons, and then enjoy a typical country lunch. Back in Blagoevgrad, we will have time
for sightseeing in the old Varosha quarter.
Meals: Breakfast at the monastery. Lunch in Dobarsko, dinner in Blagoevgrad - restaurants.
Lodging: Hotel, double room with shower.
Day 7 – August 28, 2009, Friday
We drive from Blagoevgrad to Predela col, which divides the Rila mountains from the Pirin
mountains. Now we start to explore Pirin Mountain National Park, which is on the
UNSECO World heritage list. These mountains have extremely impressive limestone and
granite aretes, sharp pointed pyramidical peaks, deep cirques and beautiful glacial lakes.
The steep slopes are covered by dense forests of white and black fir, spruce, white and black
pine, and dwarf pine. Herds of chamois wander in the most secluded areas. We hike from
Predela col to Dautov peak, and then to Yavorov hut (5708 ft above sea level). Total walking
time: approx. 6 hours 30 minutes walking time, approx elev. gain 2000 ft.
Meals: Breakfast in hotel, packed lunch. Dinner at the hut.
Lodging: Yavorov Hut, double rooms, shared showers.
Day 8 – August 29, 2009, Saturday
We start around 6:30 am for a long and exciting day of hiking through spectacular remote
alpine areas. After traversing the memorable marble/limestone ridge, of Koncheto, we
summit Vihren, the highest peak in the Pirin mountains (and third highest in the Balkans,
after Mousalla and Mt. Olympus in Greece). The hike ends at Vihren hut, where the bus will
meet us and take us to the renaissance town of Bansko. Total walking time: approx. 8 hours
30 minutes, approx. elev. gain 3000 ft.
Meals: Breakfast at the hut, packed lunch. Dinner at a restaurant in Bansko
Lodging: Kalistrina kashta Hotel in Bansko – a small family hotel built in traditional old
Bulgarian style.
Day 9 – August 30, 2009, Sunday
Transfer by bus to Vihren hut (6397 ft). From here we start our hike, climbing steadily
through the magnificent Banderishki cirque, with its several beautiful lakes. After several
hours, we reach the main ridge (8858 ft), from where we are rewarded with great views in
all directions. From there it is about two and a half hours to the Belemeto cirque (8336 ft)
with its famous Dark Lake (Tevno ezero). We will have lunch overlooking the lake, at the
hut with the same name. Then we descend to Demyanitsa hut for our afternoon tea, and
finally to a place called "The Angler's turn", where our bus will meet us for the drive back to
Bansko. Total walking time: approx 8 hours, 30 min; approx. elev. gain 2250 ft.
The dark Lake (Tevnoto ezero) and Kamenitza Peak
Meals: Breakfast at hotel, packed lunch. Dinner at a restaurant in Bansko.
Lodging: Kalistrina kashta Hotel in Bansko for a second night.
Day 10 – August 31, 2009, Sunday
We transfer by bus to the picturesque town of Melnik, located in an unusual surrounding of
natural sand pyramids and a canyon of fantastically shaped eroded rocks. With under 300
inhabitants, Bulgaria's smallest town, Melnik, is famous for its robust red wine, impressive
houses and natural surroundings. The original Revival architecture of the Melnik houses
with their famous sand wine-cellars, the remains of old-time splendor, and the numerous
churches, are the reasons Melnik has become a much visited architectural reserve. You can
still enjoy the justly famed Melnik wine, once traded as far as Western Europe, in the
numerous taverns and hotels. Nearby, we will visit the famous medieval Rozhen
Monastery, one of the few Bulgarian monasteries of the Middle Ages, which has survived
relatively intact up to present day.
Sandstone formations near Melnik
After lunch we’ll head back to the capital, where we may explore ancient churches situated
amidst modern day Sofia.
Meals: Breakfast at hotel, lunch near Melnik. Farewell dinner at a restaurant in Sofia.
Lodging: Hotel Madrid.
Day 11 – September 1, 2009, Tuesday
Free time for walks and shopping in the morning before you catch your flight back home, or
to other destinations. We will assist you with transportation back to the airport.
Meal: Breakfast near the hotel.
Possible Itinerary Changes
We will be hiking at high altitude and above tree line. Due to potential adverse weather and other
conditions, there is a possibility that our itinerary could be changed shortly before or even during the
trip.
Accommodations
We will stay in several small hotels, 3 huts and one monastery! We selected hotels that are quiet and
have non-smoking rooms. Be advised that due to cultural differences, a room labeled ‘non-smoking”
may have previously hosted smokers so it might have some residual odor. We will do our best to avoid
that, but we can not guarantee it. In the huts we will have very basic accommodations – expect bunk
beds in a room for many people with mixed genders. One of the huts (day 2) does not have a reliable
shower, but for all three nights in huts, you will need your own towel. The huts provide blankets,
sheets and pillows, although some people may wish to bring their own sleep sack. In the monastery we
will be staying in triple rooms with shower in the room.
Meals
All meals are included in the trip price. On most days we will have breakfast and dinner in restaurants,
and packed lunch will be provided. The menu will include basic breakfast and dinner items. Drinks
and extras at restaurants and the huts are not included. Tap water is generally considered safe to drink
in Bulgaria, but bottled water is widely available for those who prefer to purchase and drink that.
Bottled water and trail snacks are not provided. We will have time to shop for these items when we
arrive. Access to ATM machines is not a problem at the capital where we will do most of our shopping.
In general, food is very affordable in Bulgaria. If you have any special food preferences, please let us
know and we will do our best to accommodate you.
Transportation
All land transportation will be provided. We will have our own bus with a professional driver. The bus
will transport our luggage from hotel to hotel while we are hiking.
Passport and Visas
You will need an international passport. If you are a US citizen, you do not need a visa to enter
Bulgaria. If you are not, please contact the co-leader for assistance.
Finances
The approximate all-inclusive ground cost for this trip is $1500. Airfare from the US in addition,
estimated at $1100 to $1400. (We are available to assist you in making your air reservations).
Please be aware that, in accordance with AMC policy, you will subsidize the leaders’ costs. However,
the leaders may not realize a profit from this Excursion. Any unspent trip funds must and will be
refunded to the participants. The trip fee also includes an AMC overhead cost to offset the
administrative expenses of offering Major Excursions. That charge amounts to 20% of land costs (i.e.,
air travel costs are not included in calculating the overhead charge). Unavoidable cost increases may
also be added to the price of the trip. An example of that would be a significant change in the exchange
rate between the US dollar and the Bulgarian lev, or significant changes in local economic conditions
that may cause increase in prices of hotels and food.
What is included
 All meals – standard breakfast, lunch and dinner are included for every day of the trip
 All accommodations
 All land transportation
 Mountain guide fee
 Gondola Lift
 Most tips
What is not included
 Beverages with meals and at trail stops
 Bottled water
 Alcoholic drinks.
 Trail snacks
 Tips for hotels
Application Process
If you decide that you would like to sign up for this excursion, let us know by email or give us a call.
We will email you an application form, along with some other forms that we will need from you. A
reservation deposit of $500 per person is due with your application. Please make your check payable to
the Appalachian Mountain Club and mail with completed Application form, Confidential Medical
form, and Acknowledgement of Risk and Release form, to Éva at the address shown on the
Application.
After we receive your application, we may talk to you about your hiking experience to ascertain your
ability to participate successfully in this trip. Providing information to us about a medical issue or
injury will not necessarily disqualify you from participation, but we may need to ask you some follow
up questions. We want to be sure that we can adequately provide for your needs in our backcountry
locations.
We prefer to use e-mail as our primary method of communication. If you prefer surface mail and/or
phone calls, please let us know or note that on your Application form.
Deposit and Payment
Upon acceptance on the trip, we will notify by email or surface mail. At that point we will deposit your
check into the trip account and use the money to cover trip expenses incurred on your behalf. The
balance of $1000 per person is due May 21, 2009 (three months before the start of the trip). Participants
will purchase airline tickets with their own funds directly from the airline with help from the leaders.
Therefore, you will own the tickets, and any airline ticket refund will be determined by airline policy
and worked out between you and the airline.
Cancellation
Once you are accepted on the trip and we have deposited your check into the trip account, a $100
cancellation fee will apply. A refund of amounts paid in excess of $100 will be given to the extent that it
does not raise the cost to the other participants. If your spot can be filled from the waiting list, then you
may be entitled to a full refund, less the $100 cancellation fee. If your spot cannot be filled, then you
will receive a refund for any part of the trip that can be cancelled by the leaders, less the $100
cancellation fee.
Questions
If you have any questions or concerns, please contact either one of us to discuss them.
Éva Borsody Das, Leader, borsody@gmail.com 781-925-9733
Silvia Zaharinova, Co-Leader silvia.zaharinova@gmail.com 617 283 2440
Leaders
Leader: Éva Borsody Das, borsody@gmail.com, 781 925 9733
Éva is an all season mountain hike leader for the Southeastern Massachusetts Chapter of AMC.
Previously she was a Delaware Valley Chapter hike leader while living in Philadelphia. As a hike
leader for AMC’s August Camp since 1998, Éva has led groups all over the US, and serves on the
August Camp Committee. She is a 2001 graduate of the AMC Mountain Leadership School, and is
Wilderness First Aid certified. Éva was the co-leader of an AMC Major Excursion hiking trip to
Romania in June 2007. Éva’s other trips include climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro in January 2008, climbing
Mt. Rainier, and hiking in Newfoundland, the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites, the Tatra Mountains in
Slovakia and Poland, Patagonia, Ireland and Scotland. Éva is originally from Hungary, and has
traveled all over Eastern Europe. She is looking forward to her first trip to Bulgaria.
Co-Leader: Silvia Zaharinova, silvia.zaharinova@gmail.com, 617 283 2440
Silvia is an active leader for the Boston chapter of AMC, leading hiking and backpacking trips in all
seasons. She is also the trip coordinator for the hiking/backpacking committee of the Boston
chapter. Silvia is a native of Bulgaria, where she lived until the age of 25. She has been to several of
the places we’ll visit on this trip. Silvia has been a hike leader for AMC since 2005 and is
Wilderness First Aid certified. She has completed the 48 NH 4000- footers, and has hiked in New
England, California, Arizona, Wyoming, New Zealand, Australia, as well as in Bulgaria.
Experience and Risks
Hiking with a pack up mountains above 9,000 feet is physically demanding, especially for people
who generally reside at or near sea level. Although the elevations for the most part are not high
enough for contracting altitude sickness, the combination of physical exertion and lower oxygen
levels will require that we pace ourselves and pay close attention to proper nutrition and hydration.
People wishing to participate in this trip must have previous hiking experience at the intermediate
level or higher. Although the hiking will be at a moderate pace, this is not a trip for beginners or
people who have not hiked during the past year. This trip is not the right time for getting into shape.
You should already be in good physical condition by the time you arrive in Sofia.
When you participate in this activity you should be both physically and mentally prepared and
equipped with the appropriate gear. You should always be aware of the risks involved and conduct
yourself accordingly. We are not responsible for your safety: you are. Prior to being accepted for this
trip, you are asked to discuss your capabilities with the leader. Please do not be offended by any
questions.
Being a team player
We will be more than just a group; we will be a team. If you are a loner, if you cannot accept and
enjoy being part of a group, if you are not a team player who is willing to help your fellow hikers,
then this trip is not a good fit for you. For instance, if a member of our group becomes injured, you
may be asked to help carry that person’s gear.
Pre-trip activity
In order to enhance the group’s experience, we will try to arrange a pre trip day hike with a dinner in
New England somewhere. This will give you a chance to enjoy the outdoors while meeting the rest of
the participants and the leaders. Joining this activity is not mandatory, but is recommended.
Equipment List
Notes: Below is a list of the required gear for the trip. Because weather can change quickly in the
mountains, and snow can occur in any month of the year, you will need to have rain gear, sweater or
fleece, hat and gloves, etc. with you on all hikes. If you prefer hiking in cotton shirts, please bring a
synthetic top as a backup in case of getting wet and chilled. Please do not plan to hike in jeans.
Weather may be hot during the day but can get cold quickly in the mountains. We recommend
bringing an assortment of shorts, long pants (zip-offs work well), short and long sleeve shirts, and
layers, so you are ready for any temperature.
Required and Essential Gear
 daypack, large enough to carry 2-3 quarts/liters of water, rain gear, lunch/snacks, hat &
gloves, extra layers, flashlight/headlamp, personal gear, first aid kit, camera,
 broken-in hiking boots (preferably water-proof and over-ankle) Do not pack boots in
checked luggage!
 waterproof wind and rain gear (hooded jacket and pants, no ponchos)
 2-3 quart/liter water bottles or equivalent hydration system
 personal first aid kit w/moleskin, personal meds, etc. (leaders will have larger group first aid
kit)
 synthetic fleece jacket and/or thick wool sweater
 synthetic or wool warm hat and gloves/mittens (yes, you need these even in August!)
 shorts/long hiking pants - synthetic
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at least 3-4 pairs of hiking socks with liners
nylon, polyester, polypropylene, or other synthetic hiking clothing (see notes above)
comfortable clothing for evenings and in town
a lightweight flashlight or headlamp with extra batteries
garbage bags to line pack
toilet paper (for hikes) and extra ziplock bags to pack it out after use
towel for the huts
Recommended and Optional Gear
 sleep sack for the huts
 sandals and/or sneakers (for evenings, town, swimming)
 hiking poles
 pack cover or liner (trash compactor bag or construction site trash bag is an excellent liner)
 gaiters
 whistle and knife (knife must be in checked luggage)
 compass
 binoculars or spotting scope
 sunscreen and insect repellent
 sunhat, bandanna
 sunglasses
 swimsuit (we may be able to enjoy a dip in some of the lakes)
 camera (with charger or extra batteries, lots of film or plenty of memory!)
 field notebook and pencil (waterproof or in ziplock bag)
Resources
Information about Rila Monastery from the World Heritage Center
http://www.worldheritagesite.org/sites/rilamonastery.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rila_Monastery
History
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Bulgaria
https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/bu.html
http://www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/3236.htm
Dunovists
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Deunov
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paneurhythmy
http://www.paneurhythmy.us/
Pirin Mountain
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/225
http://www.eoearth.org/article/Pirin_National_Park,_Bulgaria
More information on the country and the landmarks will be provided a few months before the trip.
Possible side trips
If you would like to extend your stay beyond the AMC excursion, below you can find some points of
interest.

Bulgarian Black sea resorts – as a native I would recommend the towns of Sozopol in the south,
and Varna, Zlatni Piasuci, Slunchev Briag, and Nesebur in the north. You can take a very cheap
flight from wizair.com or travel by bus (approx 7 hours travel by bus, 50 min by plane). The city
of Varna has an international airport. In September the sea resorts are less busy, the weather is
good, and the seawater is still warm. It is a great destination to relax after 10 days of hiking!

Macedonia -- a newly recognized country of only 2 million. I have never been there, but I hear
that the capital Skopje is beautiful and that they have a lot of monasteries.

Turkey – Istanbul is a major tourist destination. It is an ancient city situated on two continents.
You can catch a ferry to take you across the Bosphorus to Asia, in only 30 minutes! You can get
to Istanbul in an hour by plane and in about 7 hours by bus or train. Turkey has other good
tourist destinations as well.

Greece – outstanding island beaches, ancient ruins, good food. I have never been there, but it is
a favorite destination for a lot of my family and friends. It is one of Bulgaria’s southern
neighbors and it is easy to get to by bus.

Romania – borders Bulgaria on the north. The country may be a bit more difficult to travel in,
but it has outstanding mountains, beautiful medieval towns, and of course Transylvania –
Count Dracula’s legendary home.

Bulgaria is about 3 hours away from world class destinations like Israel, Italy, Prague (Czech
Republic) and many others.