Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
12/27/08 - 1/12/09
Pack and Paddle Patagonia’s Torres
del Paine
An AMC Major Excursion, December 27, 2008 - January 12, 2009
Torres del Paine National Park
Photos by Markus Jork
TRIP OVERVIEW
Experience the beautiful backcountry at the other end of the earth in Chile’s premier
destination, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. The word Patagonia was derived from the
word “patagon” used by famed explorer Ferdinand Magellan describing the “mysterious
giants” he encountered while visiting the area in 1521. The visually stunning jagged
mountains, remote location and, in part, the centuries old tales of giants inhabiting the
area have led to Patagonia’s identity around the world as a place of wonder and mystery.
Our Patagonian journey will begin in the Chilean city of Punta Arenas where we will
acclimate to the local ways. In the mid-nineteenth century Punta Arenas was a gold
rush town supported by a hearty sealskin trade and thriving sheep industry. In 1989 a
military dictatorship ended allowing tourism to take root. We’ll spend our first night here
with some free time to shop for supplies, sight see and sample the local, world class
wine. The Mirador La Cruz, four blocks west of the Plaza Munoz Gamero, offers
panoramic views of the city, the island of Tierra del Fuego and the Strait of Magellan.
From here we will travel 3 hours, stopping along the way to see a
Magellanic Penguin colony, to the gateway town of Puerto Natales.
Once a sleepy fishing village and wool port it is now a bustling tourist
town. From this seaside town we have the opportunity to see the
southern Patagonian ice cap, visible over the water to the west. Both
nights will be spent in local hotels.
The next leg of our journey will begin with a visit to Cueva del Milodón
Natural Monument. Three separate caves are within the park and a formation called the
“Devil's Chair”. The monument is notable for the discovery in 1896 of the well preserved
remains of a giant ground sloth (Mylodon).
From here our 10-day, 70 + mile backpack circuit begins through one of South America’s
most dramatic landscapes. The soaring igneous peaks on the edge of the southern ice
field were once magma intrusions that didn’t quite make it to the surface, cooling into
Page 1 of 10
Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
12/27/08 - 1/12/09
hard granite. 10 million years of harsh Pacific storms and glacial ice have eroded the
older softer rock leaving behind the magnificent Torres del Paine
(pronounced pie-nay). We will explore glaciers, look for condors and
guanacos. Nights will be spent in refugios and campsites, preparing
some of our own meals while on the trail.
The final leg of our Patagonia odyssey will find us exploring fjords and
glaciers while we navigate the Rio Serrano, part of Bernardo O’Higgins
National Park for 3 days via sea kayak. There will be with options for
paddling near glacial icebergs. Accommodations will be camping on
the river banks at night. Our final night in Chile will be back in a hotel
surrounded by the familiar streets of Puerto Natales. Over the 11 days spent packing &
paddling through Patagonia will walk in the footsteps of explorers and giants, and maybe
discover something in ourselves.
TRIP ITINERARY - Preliminary
Below you will find an outline of what the trip entails each day. At a later date, we will
provide more specific descriptions of the different places we will visit with more detailed
descriptions. Group members should be flexible to a change in itinerary plans.
DAY/DATE
DESTINATION
Saturday Dec
27
Depart USA for overnight flight to Punta Arenas, Chile (via Santiago)
Sunday Dec 28
Arrive in Punta Arenas, Chile in the evening. Overnight in hotel in
Punta Arenas. Dinner included.
Free morning to explore Punta Arenas and prepare for the trip.
Afternoon, travel by private bus for 3 hours to Puerto Natales. On
Monday Dec 29 the way, stop at the penguin colony for a visit. Welcome dinner and
food shopping for backpack in the evening. Overnight in hotel in
Puerto Natales.
Tuesday Dec
30
Depart for park early morning on private bus. Stop at Milodon Cave
and Park Visitor Center. Start backpack into Campamento Italiano
Campsite. Approx 7 hours relatively flat hiking.
Wednesday
Dec 31
Hike from Campamento Italiano up the French Valley and then return
to camp and onto Refugio Cuernos
Celebrate New Year’s Eve! Approx 7 hours, moderate hiking
Thursday Jan 1
Refugio Cuernos to Refugio Chileno. Approx. 5 hours moderate
hiking.
Friday Jan 2
Hike from Refugio Chileno up to the Towers and back to Refugio
Chileno. This will be a steep uphill to the beautiful Torres lookout and
through a boulder field. We will do it with daypacks. Approx. 4-5
hour hike round trip.
Saturday Jan 3
Hike from Refugio Chileno to Campamento Seron. Approx. 6 hours
moderate hiking.
Sunday Jan 4
Hike from Campamento Seron to Refugio Dickson.
Page 2 of 10
Approx 5 hours
Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
12/27/08 - 1/12/09
hiking
Monday Jan 5
Hike from Refugio Dickson to Campamento Los Perros. Approx 4
hours hiking.
Tuesday Jan 6
Hike from Campamento Los Perros over pass down to Campamento
Grey. Our longest day and steepest climb. Approx 8 hour hike.
Wednesday Jan
4 hour hike from Campamento Grey to Refugio Paine Grande
7
Thursday Jan 8
Catamaran boat transfer across Lake Pehoe for pick up for kayak trip
start
Friday Jan 9
Second day of kayaking
Saturday Jan
10
Third and final day of kayaking, finish at Puerto Natales. Hotel
overnight at Puerto Natales. Departure dinner included.
Sunday Jan 11
Morning 3 hour bus from Puerto Natales to Puerto Arenas, afternoon
flight. Overnight flight back to US
Monday Jan 12
Arrive in the US
DESCRIPTION OF TRAILS AND RIVER ROUTE
Below you will find a brief description and some pictures of the Torres del Paine Circuit.
We will be spending 10 days backpacking approximately 70 miles around the Paine
Circuit, followed by 3 days of kayaking the Rio Serrano, which will give us access to the
major areas within the Park. The hiking trails are well kept and there are many welllocated refugios (cabins) with showers and food along the way. We will be staying in
refugios at least three nights and in campgrounds the remaining six nights.
This trip will require at a minimum an intermediate
level of backpacking experience and a novice level
of sea kayaking experience, but the ability to
withstand possible winds. You should be able to
hike at least 7 – 10 miles/day over rugged terrain
for multiple days and kayak about the same
amount of miles with possible wind or rain. For
more information about the kind of experience
needed for this trip, please see the “Experience and
Risks” section of this prospectus.
We will truly be at the “end of the Earth” with few amenities. You should be prepared for
ugly weather and occasional long days, but it will be an adventure of a lifetime with a
small group of backcountry enthusiasts.
ACCOMODATIONS AND MEALS
We will be staying in 3-star hotels in Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. During the
backpack we will be staying at various campgrounds and refugios (huts). For the
campgrounds, tents will be required. Please be aware that we will practice Leave No
Page 3 of 10
Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
12/27/08 - 1/12/09
Trace/minimum impact guidelines, so you are required to share a 2-person tent. There
is NOT an option to carry a one-person tent, so do not plan on that for Patagonia nor our
pre-trips. If you are not willing to share a tent, please do not apply for this trip. We will
arrange for group gear (tents and cooking pots) sharing prior to departure. Most of the
refugios have showers and hot food. In addition to eating some of our meals in the
refugios, we will be buying groceries and backpacking food to take with us for the
remaining days. You will be expected to carry your own lunch food as well as a fair
share of the group food. We will be able to replenish some of our supplies at the
refugios. While in cities we will have breakfasts at the hotels and eat some of our
dinners together.
TRANSPORTATION
The group will travel down to Chile together on a group flight,
which will originate in a Northeast city, most likely in the midafternoon. It is an overnight flight. It will be your
responsibility to get yourself to the departing airport at least
three hours before the international flight departs. If you wish
the leaders to book your connecting flight, please notify us by
filling this section out on your application form, indicating the
originating airport. You should also indicate if you wish to stay
on in Santiago at the conclusion of the trip (there is no extra
Andean Condor
cost for the stopover in terms of airfare). You will not need to
commit to this right away, but we would like to know who is planning on staying on as
early as possible.
The trip has been budgeted with a group flight in mind and this requires a minimum of
ten purchasing the group flight discount, therefore the availability for frequent flyer
mileage or other flight arrangements is limited.
During the trip, we will be traveling on Chilean public buses and private shuttles. There
will be no need to rent a car or van.
COST, REGISTRATION AND CANCELLATION
As you are probably aware, in the past few months, the US dollar has lost significant
value and therefore, the pricing of this trip has changed from its original budget. Should
you choose to participate in this trip, you must also be aware that based on the exchanfe
rate of the dollar, the pricing might rise prior to our departure.
As of late March 2008, the approximate cost for the trip is $2,400 plus an approximate
$1600-$2000 for airfare from the US to Chile. Additionally, airfares continue to rise due
to the price of fuel. At the writing of this document, airfares were ranging between
$1500 and $2200. The trip leader has been inquiring about a group airfare; however,
the status of the “best option” changes every day. There are several US carriers that fly
from US cities to Santiago, Chile; however, flight times need to be coordinated to catch a
domestic departure from Santiago to Punta Arenas, and also on the return. Trip leaders
will assist participants in reserving their plane tickets; however a group airfare also
continues to be an option. By later spring (late April or May), airfare suggestions will be
confirmed. All flight information should be discussed with a trip leader prior to
Page 4 of 10
Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
12/27/08 - 1/12/09
purchasing a ticket. Once you purchase a ticket, you are the owner and there is no
refund on your plane fare.
The trip fee will cover the following items:







All accommodations in Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales, refugios and campsites
All breakfasts and dinners on the backpack and all meals on the kayak trip
3 dinners in Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas
All local transportation (to and from the airports and trailheads)
Hut and backcountry permits
Kayak gear and Guides
AMC major excursion fee
All other breakfasts, lunches and snacks for the backpack and other personal expenses
are not included. You should estimate about US$300 for additional meals and expenses.
The approximate cost for the excursion is based on
quotes at the time the trip was submitted to the Major
Excursions Committee in January, 2008. The final cost
of the trip will be adjusted in accordance with the
current exchange rate of the dollar to peso and the
best final arrangements we can make. Airfare may
differ based on points of departure with fluctuations in
airfares. Any savings we achieve, as well as any cost
increase, will be passed back to you.
Please be aware that, in accordance with AMC policy, you are subsidizing the leaders'
costs. Beyond this, the leaders are not allowed to realize any profit from this excursion.
The trip price also includes an AMC overhead fee to cover the administrative expenses of
offering Major Excursions, including the trip's publication in AMC Outdoors for several
months. The trip fee includes emergency medical and evacuation insurance coverage,
which is required by the AMC.
Any unspent funds resulting from negotiating better rates for airfare, lodging, local
transportation, etc. will be refunded to the participants. If the trip’s financial position is
strong enough at the start, the leaders may make partial refunds in the form of
payments toward some meals and/or free time activities which would otherwise not be
included.
To apply, you must complete and submit the Application, Confidential Medical forms, and
Acknowledgement and Assumption of Risk and Release forms, and a registration deposit
of $800. You will not actually be accepted, and your check will not be deposited, until
the leaders have determined by telephone conversation with you that you and the trip
seem to be a good match. The second deposit of $700 will be due June 1, 2008 and the
final payment will be due September 1, 2008. Make checks payable to the Appalachian
Mountain Club.
This trip is likely to fill quickly. If you are interested, you should register as soon as
possible. Please send all completed forms to Andrea Deaton, P.O. Box 2952, Jackson,
WY 83001
Page 5 of 10
Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
12/27/08 - 1/12/09
Our cancellation policy is based on the simple precept that your cancellation shall not
raise the cost to any of the other participants or the leader. Therefore, if you cancel we
will refund any fees that you have paid, less expenses already incurred, or unavoidable
expenses that will be incurred to the leader or other participants as a result of your
registration and subsequent cancellation. If you cancel after airline tickets have been
purchased, then you own the tickets and that part of the fee cannot be refunded. You
are STRONGLY encouraged to purchase the optional trip cancellation/evacuation
insurance policy that we will make available to you upon registration.
When registration is complete, we will send all participants the names, addresses, and
phone numbers of all those going on the trip. We are good communicators and will try
very hard to keep everyone well informed. We will be using email as our primary source
of communication. If you have any questions, please call us so that we can discuss
them. You should try Andrea Deaton first at 267-738-8048 or by e-mail at
andrea.deaton@gmail.com. John Crist can be reached at (203) 815-6505 (C), and his email is jjc4523@yahoo.com
We will plan two overnight camping trips for applicants to meet and hike prior to the
Major Excursion in December. One will occur in late May/early June, the other in August.
We’ll try to base the locations on participant access, however everyone should attend at
least one of the pre-hikes. Details will be available shortly.
TRIP LEADERS
Andrea Deaton is an active major excursions leader for the AMC.
An AMC leader for nearly 10 years, Andrea has led biking and
backpacking trips for the Delaware Valley Chapter and served on
various committees at the club wide and chapter levels including
Outdoor Leadership Development, Major Excursions and Chapters
Committees. She is a graduate of and former instructor for AMC’s
Mountain Leadership School. She has led backpacking workshops
at the Mohican Outdoor Center and served as the DV Chapter Chair. Most recently she
led trips to New Zealand; Yosemite NP; Kilimanjaro summit/Tanzania; High Peaks of
Colorado; Belize; Moab, Utah; the Monongahela National Forest, WV; Tuscany, Italy;
Yellowstone/Grand Teton Nat’l Parks. Andrea is currently certified as a Wilderness First
Responder. She moved to Jackson, WY last year to pursue new outdoor adventures, and
is a fundraiser for the Grand Teton National Park Foundation.
Co-leader: John Crist is an active four season hike, nordic ski and backpack leader for
the Connecticut chapter. In addition John is a graduate, and
current instructor for, the AMC’s Mountain Leadership School based
in Crawford Notch, NH. For the past 15 years he has traveled
extensively abroad and domestically, including backcountry stays
the Yellowstone NP, the Adirondack high peaks, The Maine Woods
and a recent 8 day backpacking Major Excursion in the Wind River
Range in Wyoming. He recently completed the Major Excursion
training and is looking forward to co-leading this trip with Andrea.
John is also an active member, and past Co-Chair of, the CT-AMC Conservation
Committee. John lives in Cheshire, CT and is a Project Manager for a large healthcare
insurance company.
Page 6 of 10
Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
12/27/08 - 1/12/09
EXPERIENCE AND RISKS
Good physical condition and backpacking experience are required for this trip. There are
many risks associated with backpacking in the wilderness; you should be aware of these
risks, and willing to take responsibility for your safety and enjoyment.
Carrying a heavy pack over mountainous terrain is physically demanding. When hiking
we will pace ourselves and pay close attention to proper nutrition and hydration. People
wishing to participate in this trip must have previous backpacking experience for 3 or
more nights overnight camping within the last 5 years at the intermediate or higher
level. Although we will be staying in some huts along the way, which could be perceived
as more “luxurious accommodations,” participants will be expected to hike with the
group each day and we will be hiking 10 consecutive days without a day off. Even
though we will hike at a moderate pace, this trip is not for beginners or people who have
not backpacked for several years. You should plan on being in excellent physical
condition at the time we depart.
There are many factors which might keep us from
reaching our geographic goals. These include
illness, injury and bad weather. The trip leaders
retain the right to make the best and safest
decisions for the group, which might mean
changing our route, not finishing the intended
route, or spending the night somewhere other
than originally planned. By being in this group,
you have made the decision to stick with the
group and follow the leaders’ decisions.
Lago Grey
Western parts of the park are known to experience localized weather patterns and can
see high precipitation levels (rain/snow, etc.). Additionally, certain areas can be
extremely windy. The sun is very strong in this part of the world due to ozone depletion
so SPF hats, glasses and lotion should be worn. Sea kayaking comes inherently with
exposure to extremely cold water, shifting ice and changing water conditions. Both
leaders are experienced in leading trips under variable weather conditions, year round.
When you participate in this activity you should be both physically and mentally prepared
and equipped with the appropriate gear. You should always be aware of the risks
involved and conduct yourself accordingly. We are not responsible for your safety – you
are. Please discuss your capabilities and experience with us prior to registering for this
activity. We may request further information about your capabilities to gauge your
preparedness; please do not be offended by our questions.
EMERGENCY EVACUATION INSURANCE
In the case of an emergency during our trip, emergency medical transportation and
evacuation costs can be exorbitant. Most U.S. medical policies, HMOs & PPOs provide
little or no coverage for these expenses.
The basic policy that is included with your trip fee is through TripMate™ and includes
$100,000 for emergency medical evacuation. It also includes an additional $5,000 for
Page 7 of 10
Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
12/27/08 - 1/12/09
accident and sickness medical expense, which would supplement anyone’s personal
medical insurance. The $5,000 is not high, but participants should have their own
medical insurance.
Participants should consider taking out supplemental trip insurance to cover the costs
incurred if they should need to cancel the trip due to a family emergency or other fees
due to delays, lost luggage, etc. Upon your trip acceptance confirmation, you will
receive information about a recommended trip insurance provider.
BEING A TEAM PLAYER
We will be more than just a group; we will be a team. If you are a loner, if you cannot
accept and enjoy being part of a group, if you are not a team player who is willing to
help your fellow hikers, then please do not register for this excursion. As a member of
our team, you will carry your fair share of community gear and food. You will help with
meal preparations, cleaning and be expected to participate in daily meetings to discuss
campsite management and the next day’s expectations. Although every effort will be
made for individuals to have time to write in journals, take photos, or relax by the
waterside, depending on the pace of the group and other factors, we cannot guarantee
significant amounts of personal time. If a member of our group becomes injured, you
will be expected to help carry that person’s gear.
Pre-Trip Gatherings
To this end, we will try to arrange a weekend backpacking trip before we depart, so we
can get to know each other. Although not required, this will be a great way to meet the
others in the group. We plan to do our first pre-trip meeting Memorial Day Weekend,
May 23-25. The second get together weekend will be later in the summer a date TBD.
WEBSITE RESOURCES
http://www.torresdelpaine.com/ingles/index.asp
http://gorp.away.com/gorp/location/latamer/chile/paine.htm
http://www.gochile.cl/html/Paine/TorresDelPaine.asp
OPTIONS FOR INDEPENDENT PRE/POST TRIP EXTENSIONS
Patagonia’s proximity too many southern hemisphere popular destinations make it quite
appealing to consider your own independent pre- or post- trip additions. Some
recommendations for furthering outdoor recreation and exploring are:
Easter Island
One of the world’s most famous but least visited archaeological sites,
and 2,200 miles West of the coast of Chile, Easter Island is known as a volcanic
Polynesian Island consisting of 3 extinct volcanoes and its stone statues (moai). Much of
the island is a protected national park Rapa Nui National Park. It is a special territory of
Chile and a 5 hour flight from Santiago.
Galapagos Islands are a province of Ecuador. The Galápagos archipelago is worldrenowned for its unique and fearless wildlife- much of which was inspiration for Charles
Darwin's Theory of Natural Selection. Giant tortoises, sea lions, penguins, marine
iguanas and different bird species can all be seen and approached. The Galapagos
features a unique ecosystem with thousands of rare species. Most people fly from
Ecuador or Peru to arrive there.
Page 8 of 10
Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
12/27/08 - 1/12/09
Antarctica—visits to Antarctica can really only take place in the summer (Nov-March),
during which period there is no night. Most people arrive in Antarctica by cruise ship and
one of the closest ports of embarkation is from the Tierra del Fuego tip of Chile. The
trips can be 10 days to 3 week voyage around the island.
Atacama Desert-- more than 50 times as arid as California’s Death Valley, the Atacama
Desert is the driest non-Arctic area on earth and is a virtually rainless area between the
Andean mountains and the Pacific coast of Chile. There are several observatories here
and opportunities for hiking, biking and horseback riding.
Parcque Nacional Las Glaciares—This national park in Pategonian Argentina is a few
hours by bus away from the Torres del Paine. The ice cap is the largest outside of
Antarctica and Greenland. This park is the home of Mt. Fitz Roy (11,073’) a very notable
peak that is a very difficult technical climb.
EQUIPMENT LIST
Below is a list of the required gear for the trip. The items with asterisks (*) will be
shared, so if you do not have this equipment, you will be able to share with others.
You will carry this gear for 10 days straight, therefore it is in your best interest to use as
lightweight gear as possible. Including water, your pack should not be more than
approximately 25% of your bodyweight.
Personal Gear
 backpack (min. 3500-5000 cubic
inches)
 1 large duffel (to put your nonbackpacking items in while bp’ing)
 1 small daypack / lumbar pack for
sightseeing
 15-20 degree lightweight sleeping
bag
 2 Nalgene bottles / Camelback
bladder
 lunches and high energy snacks
(can be purchased in Chile)
 2-person tent*
Personal Clothing
 hiking boots (broken-in, preferably
waterproof)
 reliable waterproof wind and rain
gear (top and bottom)—ponchos or
water resistant nylon is not
sufficient—must be waterproof
 one insulating layer of top and
bottom wool, synthetic fleece
jacket and pants
 hat
 gloves or mittens



synthetic top and bottom—hiking
shorts and/or nylon pants, short
sleeve and long sleeve tops
(Polypropylene, CoolMax,
Bergelene, etc.)
bathing suit
min. 2-3 pairs hiking socks w/
liners
Accessories
 1 flashlight or headlamp w/ extra
batteries
 mess kit (fork, spoon,
cup/bowl/plate or large insulated
mug)
 toiletries
 stuff sacks for food storage
 sunglasses
 whistle
 personal first aid kit
 sunscreen and bug repellant
 Ziploc bags for trash
 compass
 matches or lighter
 pack cover
Page 9 of 10
Patagonia—Pack and Paddle Torres del Paine
Optional Gear
 Tevas or sandals (to wear around
camp). You might want to
consider one pair of shoes that can
also be used for kayaking (Keen,
Teva or other porous water shoe)
 gaiters (for rain and scree)
 bandana
 hiking poles (highly recommended)
 pocket knife
 camp towel
 casual clothing (for in town)
 camera and film or extra batteries
12/27/08 - 1/12/09





playing cards
camp pillow
an extra layer of insulation (if you
are bringing fleece, then bring long
underwear)
waterproof gear for kayaking such
as a small dry bag for your camera
sunhat for kayaking
Group Gear
 water filter and backup chemical
treatment*
 cooking pots*
Page 10 of 10