[[1]] *1
Camp, Tending Mountain (8662ft) Sikkim, May. 4. 1849.
My dear Father
I was so hurried on leaving Darjeeling that I could not fulfil my intention of writing
by last mail; & I almost doubt whether this letter can possibly catch the Bombay
Overland. *2 I am again en route for the Snows; & you may fancy me seated, as
usual, on a bed of fragrant Aretemesia one species only is an extremely common
bush; about 7 feet high, & by no means typical of a dry atmosphere, or Siberian
climate. I packed 16 boxes & baskets for Kew, the last thing before I started, &
they are, are[sic] now en route for Calcutta *3. Their contents are as follows. One is
full of seeds, in a very excellent state.-- a 2d contains specimens of Sikkim,
Bhotean & Thibetan [Tibetan] fabriques; -- Samples of the very best cotton & wool.
a 3d odds & ends,-- sections of Tree Ferns, Amadou String made form an
unknown substance; Brick Tea &c. The 4th holds a curious Fishing Basket of
Bamboo. used by the Sikkim Mechis of the Terai; within it are Lepcha & Thibetan
Arms, & some sundries, as flutes for the museum. Interalia, you will find a very fine
specimen of Amadou (fungoid in nature) another of a cottony substance from
Caryota, -- a Catty of Chinese Tea, in the state most highly prized here, but
perhaps of the common English kind: they call it Dut--hang: two very valuable
Bhotea Cups of the Rajah sort which would be improved by polishing; a curious
“Small--toothed Comb”, of the Elephant Pattern, used by the Hill Ghorkhas
[Gurkhas]: pray observe the little Box atop of the Elephant’s back; it holds a red
paste, with which the Brahmins give the mark of the caste:-- also a letter from the
Dhurmah Rajah (Bhotean) on Daphne paper with Seal; it is wrapped., as it was
sent, in china silk; 2 pieces of Mech cloth, very fine; a good Lepcha cloth & a
Bhotean one;-- a Thibet woollen do; a cap of the Mountain Armadillo (not an
Armadillo either but I forget the beast’s name at this moment,-- any one will tell
you.) 2 flutes, & a Flageolet,-- also of the Aborigines of Terai:-- a curious Hookah,
of
[[2]] the same people,-- a Lepcha shield & knives, to complete the arms I sent
before. The roots are chiefly of Rhodod[odendron]. Dalhousiae & argenteum,
certainly the 2 finest new species: of these there are 12 Baskets of all sizes &
packed in various ways:-- also a dozen plants of R. Falconeri -- 16 of the great
Magnolia, many Helmingia & Orchidea, &c -- I have requested Mr Macrae,
immediately on their arrival at Calcutta, to select the strongest survivors & send
them overland Sine Morae *4; & put others in a good Ward’s Case, for which I will
pay. I have myself closely inspected the packing of all the above; & I trust some of
the plants will reach you alive: I shall continue to transmit seedlings of
Rhododendrons incessantly; & I have arranged for their being received & packed
in Darjeeling, & sent to Calcutta.
Just before I set off, a letter came about Gardner’s death, written by a Mr. or Dr.
Fleming of the Army in Ceylon *5, asking what should be done with the collection;
to which I only replied, “nothing till they hear from you”-- all the public prints
express the general regret for his death; & I have received a sorrowful letter from
Wight on the subject. From Nepaul [Nepal], Calcutta, the N[orth].W[est].
Provinces,-- literally from the length & breadth of India, condolences have been
offered to me. His travels were much read; & every one who touched at Ceylon
had seen or heard of him. I am glad to say that my servant, Clamanze, has arrived
safely with all of my collections at the Calcutta Botanic Gardens: he was to send all
the Fungi & several odd matters by this mail. He tells me the living plants are in
very fair order. Dr. Falconer was expected at once.
Everything promises happily for the success of this my present Expedition; thanks
to Hodgson & Campbell, whose kindness exceeds all I can describe. How far I
may be able to proceed is very problematical; for the best collection of charts &
routes will not reveal to me whither I am going. The Rajah has sent no guide; but
the report in the Bazaar is that I am to be met by my former guide, Meepo, who
has received orders to conduct me whither I choose, in Sikkim. On the other hand,
the Lasso Kaji, the lately rejected Vakeel, has declared that I am to be obstructed,
&, as I must march for a week through his Dominions, it is very possible he may try
to hinder my crossing the
[[3]] Teesta, I therefore take a Havildar & Sepas of the Hill--Rangers, (all, or part of
whom I can send back when I choose); they inspire confidence in my people, &
that is all I want. My own followers appear excellent fellows. Today they
accompanied me in a March, which tired even my unloaded self; & though the
weather is terribly hot, they uttered not a murmur. They are 42 in all,: 10 are
soldiers, 5 are Hodgson’s shooters &c. Ten are Lepchas of my own, the rest are
Sikkim Bhoteas. Only 2 or 3 have ever been to the Snows but all seem active,
willing & cheerful. I have asked & followed the best advice I could obtain on the
subject of the expedition; & my friend, Campbell has bestowed a world of pains &
trouble upon it. Food is to be sent after me, every 14 days; & Campbell has
established a post for me, which will extend to a considerable distance. He bore
me company yesterday, as far as the Great Runjeet; & after we had slept, &
crossed the river this morning he came a little way up this mountain. Before
separating, we mustered all hands, & inspected them. I shall soon reach & pass
over the summit, 9000ft. high.
I am glad to say my new servant improves a little. Certes, he could not exceed his
former self in stubbornness & gaucherie: he is, however, civil, willing, & honest; & I
do try to be kind to him. I was sorely tempted to thrash him yesterday, when I
found, on arriving at the Camp, that all the Coolies Baskets had been packed up
(with their covers off) within my own nice cotton--cloth Tent!; & a deluge of thunder
& rain was descending & soaking it all! The stupid fellow had actually never
thought to throw one of my 5 Tarpaulins, which were at hand & lying useless, over
the Tent. And there he stood, quietly suffering the martyrdom of a ducking.
The “Malabar”, bringing Adye’s Instruments, has reached Calcutta; & I have asked
that a messenger should be sent with them. I do hope they are safe. Macrae writes
that he has despatched the seeds, &c straight to you. Cathcart is spending some
months at Darjeeling. He is a kind old man & very rich. He takes all your
publications. Botanical Magazine, Icones Plantarum, Ferns,-- the Annals, &c. I
have regretted the being too busy to accept all his hospitality though, when I have
dined with him, he has seduced me with such cookery as no mortal could resist.
In the Illustrated London News I see the account of Capt.
[[4]] Mac Luckie’s Sea--Serpent which he ought to have immediately recognised as
a seal, without waiting for Prof. Owen’s verdict, The latter not being so accustomed
as I am to huge, Atlantic Amphibia, deserves the greater credit for his acumen.
I gathered some Barley (.Wheat?) 2 days ago, with Henslow’s monstrous awas: it
varies extremely in amount of distortion & is entirely caused by the great damp of
the atmosphere. So our clover varies on these Hills. Perhaps I told you already of
a letter I lately received from Thos. Thomson: it is written in poor health & spirits &
gives me much concern, He says that he shall certainly go home next May; & I
hope he will do so; & if he be really so unwell as he thinks himself, I trust he will
return to India no more.
I have heard much from Dr. O'Shaugnessy Of W[allich]’s & McL[eland]’s quarrels
not creditable to either party, & perhaps mainly owing to jealousy of W[allich]’s
influence with the government.
May 5, Namtchi [Namchi] (6000 ft. higher up.) My dear father, I am crawling up &
have gathered a few new plants today, one of which is a very fine yellow--flowered
Cymbidium? (I send roots of it to (Darjeeling) & a funny looking Tree in the
Putraajira way, with which I unacquainted[sic]: it has 2 styles & one ovale & is
monaecious. I have brought Endlicher’s book with me, & will try to make it out,
Wallichia I gathered today, at 5000 ft & upwards.
The weather is awefully[sic] hot; &, as I descend the Teesta River tomorrow, I shall
find it hotter still;-- however, it is quite healthy. Love to my mother & Bessy, & kind
regards to other relations & kind friends.
Yr. most aff[ectiona]te son. | Jos. D. Hooker.
P.S.-- I see the scarlet robes of the Tcheba Lama coming down the mountain: he
is bound for Darjeeling; & I shall give him this letter. My old Guide "Meepo" is with
him,-- sent to me, I now hope, by the Rajah.
ENDNOTES
1. This letter is a copy written in a hand not that of the original author, JDH, and is
not signed by him. The copy was probably made by JDH's mother or sister.
2. The city formerly known as Bombay is now called Mumbai.
3. The city formerly known as Calcutta is now called Kolkata.
4. Latin, meaning without delay.
5. The country formerly known as Ceylon is now called Sri Lanka.
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