Vol. 15, No.2
April-May 2011
University of Illinois Extension, Pike County Horticulture Newsletter
Pike County
1301 E. Washington St.
Pittsfield, IL 62363
Phone: (217) 285-5543
Fax: (217) 285-5735
If you need a reasonable accommodation to participate
in any program we offer, please contact University of
Illinois Extension, Pike County at 217-285-5543.
Articles in This Issue:
Looking for Email Addresses .............................. 1
Upcoming Events ................................................. 1
Contain Enthusiasm for Vegetable Gardening... 1
Clematis Pruning 101 .......................................... 2
A Sprightly Spring of Native Flowering Trees ... 3
Care of Spring Bulbs after the Bloom ................. 4
Weed Control in Landscape & Garden ............... 5
Follow Safety Precautions Doing Yard Work ..... 7
Garden of Sensory Delights................................. 8
Manage Tomato Problems Now .......................... 8
Baby Carrots at Home ......................................... 9
Wildlife in Your Garden ...................................... 10
Please Let us Know if You Would
Like the Newsletter via E-mail!
If you would like to receive your “Down To
Earth” horticulture newsletter via email, please
send your email address to
cwestfal@illinois.edu and please let us know
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anymore. Thank you!
Upcoming Events
Spring Horticulture Telenet Series
Invasive Trees & Shrubs - May 10, 1:00 p.m.
Invasive plants and pests can out-compete desirable
species for space, sunlight, water, and nutrients. Learn
which woody plants to avoid planting or those that
should be eradicated to insure a well-balanced, healthy
landscape. Deadline to register is Friday, May 6, 2011.
Need a Gift? Give a 4-H Cookbook!
Many members have nostalgic memories of
learning food skills through the great projects
and recipes offered through 4-H. The Illinois
4-H Cookbook has more than 150 recipes
from 4-H foods project books such as You
Learn to Bake, ABC’s of Food, Adventures in
Cooking, It’s Fun to Cook, Milk & Eggs,
Meat, Pastry and Yeast Breads in Your
Meals. This 8/12” x 11” spiral bound cookbook is $15.00.
This would make a great wedding shower cookbook! Call
the extension office at 285-5543 or email
cemyers@illinois.edu
Contain your Enthusiasm for
Vegetable Gardening
Sandra Mason, Unit Educator, Horticulture & Environment
Do you have a yearning for yams? A hankering for
jalapenos? Or a craving for carrots? Good news. You
don't need a lot of space or your own plot of land to
enjoy fresh vegetables and herbs. A pot on the patio or a
bucket on the balcony is all you need.
A successful vegetable container garden requires
particular attention to the size of the container, type of
soil mix, and plant variety. Any container can be used as
long as it is free of toxic materials, has adequate drain
holes, and is large enough to accommodate the roots of
desired plants. Five gallon bird seed or restaurant buckets
work well.
Leafy crops such as lettuce grow well in hanging baskets;
however, most tomatoes need at least a three-gallon
container. I have yet to see a healthy looking tomato
plant in those "upsy downsy" things. If you want to use
hanging baskets, be sure to select varieties listed below
for one-gallon containers. Tomatoes, as with most large
vegetable plants, need regular water and nutrition to be
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
happy and small upside down containers are not what
any self-respecting tomato would choose.
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
Pesto garden: two or three lettuce-leaf type basil
plants, two parsley plants, several garlic cloves.
(This method of planting garlic yields
harvestable leaves).

Herb garden: one each of chive, sage, and
rosemary surrounded by thyme.

Salad garden: cherry tomato plant with
sprinkling of lettuce and radish seeds around the
outside edge.
Be sure to use potting mix or container soil mix rather
than garden soil.
When selecting vegetable varieties for containers look
for bush, compact or dwarf varieties. For tomatoes select
determinate types that stay smaller than indeterminates
such as 'Big Boy'.
Here are a few suggested container sizes with their
appropriate vegetable varieties:

Half-gallon containers: parsley (one plant, 'Dark
Moss Curled', 'Paramount')

One-gallon containers: cabbages (one plant, any
variety); cucumbers (two plants, 'Salad Bush',
'Bush Champion', 'Spacemaster'); green beans,
(two to three plants, 'Topcrop', 'Tendercrop',
'Derby'); leaf lettuce (four to six plants, 'Green
Ice', 'Salad Bowl', 'Red Sails', 'Black-Seeded
Simpson', Buttercrunch, Oakleaf); spinach (direct
seed, thin to one to two inches apart, 'American
Viking', 'Long-Standing', 'Bloomsdale',
'Melody'); Swiss chard (one plant, 'Fordhook
Giant', 'Lucullus'); cherry and patio tomatoes
(one plant, 'Pixie', 'Sweet 100', 'Lizzano',
'Terenzo', 'Tumbling Tom Red or Yellow')

Two-gallon containers: beets (thin to two or
three inches apart, 'Ruby Queen'); carrots (thin to
two to three inches apart, 'Little Finger',
'Danver's Half Long', or 'Nantes Half Long'); egg
plant (one plant, 'Fairy Tale', 'Dusky'); pepper
(two plants, 'Lady Bell', 'Gypsy', 'Crispy', 'New
Ace', or 'Red Chili'); radishes (thin to one to two
inches apart, 'Champion', 'Comet', 'Sparkler',
'White Icicle', or 'Early Scarlet Globe');

Three-gallon containers: standard tomatoes (one
plant, 'Jetstar', 'Celebrity', or 'Super Bush').
If space allows, add a few edible flowers such as signet
marigolds or pansies. Or grow a theme garden of tasty
culinary combinations in large half barrel containers.

Salsa garden: one garden bush type meaty
tomato such as 'Roma', 'San Marzano' or 'Viva
Italia' with one hot pepper plant. Add a few green
onions or scallions. Sprinkle seeds of cilantro
around the outside edge of container.
Vegetables require at least six hours of sun. Leafy
vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage, collards, mustard
greens, and spinach tolerate partial shade better than root
vegetables such as turnips, radishes, and carrots and fruitbearing vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers.
Plants grown in containers will need frequent, often
daily, watering. Be sure to water thoroughly each time.
Fertilize plants at least weekly using water soluble
organic or inorganic vegetable fertilizer containing
micronutrients. Follow label directions.
Cultivate containers of bountiful vegetables to enrich
your taste buds and your budget. Bon Appétit.
Clematis Pruning 101
Sandra Mason, Unit Educator, Horticulture & Environment
What they say, "When do I prune (fill
in the blank)?" What I hear, "I have
this plant and I can't stand the way it
looks. Can I hack it back now?" The
old adage is "you prune when your
pruners are sharp". Many plants can be
pruned in the spring; however, if
flowers are the goal we need to step
away from the shears a moment to
determine how the plant grows and if it produces flowers
on old wood (last year's stems) or new wood (this
season's new stems).
As a general rule plants that bloom before June 15 bloom
on old wood and plants that bloom after June 15 bloom
on new wood. Some plants are sort of pruning fool-proof
such as 'Endless Summer' hydrangeas and reblooming
roses. They bloom on new and old wood so no matter
when you prune they still flower.
For plants that bloom on old wood, it is best to prune
right after they flower. For other plants, as a general rule,
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
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it is best to wait and do severe pruning just before the
plant's active growth season. Therefore summer
blooming plants can be pruned now.
is the sweet smelling, late blooming Sweet Autumn
clematis. Its rampant growth requires a heavy spring
prune.
When to prune clematis is a bit of a mystery due to the
many different types of clematis. In the 1950's a
somewhat loose grouping was put together to help
explain pruning and flowering periods.
The good news is incorrectly pruned clematis usually
don't die from pruning mistakes. Worst case scenario is
flowers are delayed until later in the season or until next
year.
They are designated as A, B, C or 1, 2, 3, or little
pruning, half pruning or hard pruning, depending on the
author. Usually the plant label will list the pruning
category.
Check out Chicago Botanic Garden's publication
"Clematis for Northern Landscapes" at
http://www.chicagobotanic.org/research/plant_evaluation
/index.php
Group 1 or A is the early flowering species that bloom in
late April to late May and generally require little pruning.
These plants flower on "old wood" or last season's stems.
For these varieties spring pruning should be reserved to
removing only dead stems. If necessary they can be
lightly pruned again right after blooming.
Group 1 includes Clematis alpina 'Constance' and
'Pamela Jackman', Clematis macropetala 'Lagoon', and
Clematis montana 'Elizabeth'.
Group 2 or B clematis are early double and semi-double
mid-season cultivars. They bloom mid to late May and if
healthy will repeat bloom in September into October.
These flower on both old and new wood. Prune lightly in
spring when buds begin to swell, removing dead and
weak stems and reducing size if needed. The largest
flowers will be produced on the old wood while new
growth will provide bloom for late season. Group 2 can
be pruned again immediately after flowering if needed.
Group 2 clematis include: 'The President', 'Vino', 'AnneLouise', 'Arctic Queen', 'Bees Jubilee', 'Crystal Fountain',
and 'Rosemoor'.
Group 3 or C clematis are the late large flowered
cultivars and other late blooming clematis species. They
are the easiest to prune but also the group in greatest
need of a hard annual prune. These vigorous vines bloom
on new wood so it's hard to go wrong. Cut to a pair of
healthy strong buds at the base of the plant in spring as
the buds swell. If these go unpruned, the flowers are
produced way up at the top of the plant exposing their
bony legs. Group 3 also includes some of the non-vining
clematis such as Clematis durandii.
Group 3 includes: 'Comtesse de Bouchaud', 'Rouge
Cardinal', 'Duchess of Albany', C. tangutica, C. viticella
cultivars such as 'Etoile Violette','Polish Spirit' and
'Madame Julia Correvon'. The poster child for this group
A Sprightly Spring of Native Small
Flowering Trees
Sandra Mason, Unit Educator, Horticulture & Environment
It is that time of year when
we are reminded of some of
the true mysteries of life.
Why aren't redbud trees
called "pinkbuds"? Why is
that purplish pink flowering
weed carpeting fields right
now called "henbit" and not "turkey chew"? Why aren't
male lady bugs called "gentleman bugs"? For now we
will leave these questions to the great thinkers of the
world.
Our spring weather fuels frustration at times. However it
also brings the glorious show of flowering trees with
their flowers conveniently borne at nose level so we may
inhale every molecule of fragrance. Many of these trees
reach heights less than 40 feet and can be tucked into
numerous spots in the landscape. Illinois has its share of
charming small native trees that offer good looks and
good temper.
Carolina silverbell, Halesia carolina, was a favorite of
the famous landscape architect Jens Jensen. He
established a grove of silverbells in Lincoln Memorial
Garden in Springfield in the 1930's. Silverbells are
seldom troubled with insects or diseases. The white bell
shaped flowers ring in spring in late April or early May.
As an understory tree in the wild, silverbells tolerate sun
to semi-shade. They snuggle well in a rhododendron and
azalea bed, since they prefer moist, acidic soils with high
organic matter.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
At 30 to 40 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 35 feet
silverbells are fine additions to home landscapes. They
are native to southern Illinois, but seem to do just fine
here given a proper site.
Blackhaw, Viburnum prunifolium, falls into my list of
favorite plants. At 12 to 15 feet tall it transplants well and
is adaptable to many soil types. It may be found as a
small tree or commonly in the wild as a multi-stemmed
shrub. Blackhaw viburnums are found in the wild in
shady woodland sites as an understory tree, but also do
well in full sun landscapes. It, as well as many plants
grown in shade, will form a more open airy plant in the
shade. Denser branching occurs in the sun.
Blackhaws have full season interest. In the spring the
new leaves are flushed with maroon. The white flowers
are borne in May as flat topped 2 to 4 inch diameter
clusters of tiny flowers. The leaves are glossy green and
remain attractive through the summer until they turn red
to bronze in the fall. The fruit turns from rosy-pink to
bluish-black in September. The fruit is edible if you can
beat the birds to them. The small berries have been used
in preserves since colonial times.
Another great small tree with four-season appeal is
serviceberry, Amelanchier spp. The graceful branches
arch with white flowers that appear now as the leaves
emerge. The blue fruits are tasty when ripe, but are
snatched up quickly by the birds. The smooth gray bark
invites a caress from lusty tree huggers. Serviceberries
are one of the finest small trees for fall color when the
leaves turn to orange and red.
With several species of serviceberries and many cultivars
available, do your homework to get the size and fall color
you wish. The story goes serviceberries got their name
from their spring flowers that heralded the resumption of
the traveling preacher's schedule. The flowers of
serviceberries were a sure sign it was time for burying
and marrying.
Visit University of Illinois Extension's website
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/treeselect
Care of Spring Bulbs after the Bloom
Sandra Mason, Unit Educator, Horticulture & Environment
The daffodil blooms have blown and the tulip flowers
have flown past another spring season. If we want to see
a spring dance of flowers next year, we need to pay
attention to how we treat spring flowering bulbs now.
4
After the flowers have faded, remove the old flower
heads, otherwise plants will expend energy producing
unwanted seeds. Another key to maintaining healthy
bulbs is to let the foliage turn yellow and die back
naturally before cutting back. Bulbs need the leaves to
replenish their food storage. Although it is best to let
leaves die naturally, if it's driving you crazy to leave
them you can braid, rubber band or otherwise tie the
leaves together.
Also retain the foliage on the
bulbs if you dig them to make
room for other plants or to do
bed redesign. To temporarily
move bulbs use the "healing in"
technique. Place the bulbs into a
six-inch deep trench, cover with soil and allow the
foliage to die back. The bulbs can remain in the
temporary area until they are replanted in October. Just
be sure to label them and delineate the area of bulbs with
golf tees or other in-ground markers.
For healthy bulbs they can be fertilized shortly after they
have bloomed by applying 5-10-5, 5-10-10 or similar
fertilizer. Work it shallowly into soil and water.
If spring bulbs have not performed the way you had
hoped, here are some possible reasons.
With new bulbs planted last fall:
If no foliage appeared this spring then either voles or
squirrels got the bulbs or the bulbs rotted from
excessively wet soils. Dig the area to determine the
problem.
If foliage appeared but no flowers:
Bulbs were small sized when planted. With bulbs, bigger
is better. Small bulbs will usually get big enough to
flower in a year or so.
Bulbs planting area is too shady. Most bulbs need at least
6 to 8 hours of sun while the leaves are intact.
Bulbs are stressed from too much competition. Evergreen
trees and fast growing plants may cause too much
crowding and shading. Hostas and ornamental grasses are
polite bulb companions.
Bulbs are planted in an area with poor drainage. They
prefer spending their summer dormant season in dry soil.
Also if bulbs share a planting area with summerflowering annuals, the regular watering of the annuals
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
may be too much water for the dormant bulbs. Bulbs may
rot or perform poorly the next season.
Bulbs can get viruses which causes a loss of vigor and
eventually death. Virus will often appear as yellow
streaking or mottling on the leaves. Viruses can be
passed to other bulbs so it's best to dig and destroy
virused bulbs.
Bulbs may be too crowded after growing many years in
the same location. Bulbs can be dug and divided once the
leaves yellow this spring. Replant soon after digging.
Some spring-flowering bulbs especially tulips are treated
as annuals since they rarely return with the size and
quality of flowers of the first season. If long term tulips
are your goal, look for those that are labeled "for
perennializing" such as: Fosteriana; Greigii; and
Kaufmanniana. With good growing conditions, these put
on a good show each spring.
Weed Control in the Landscape and
Garden
Tony Bratsch, Horticulture Educator
Weed control is an issue for just about
anyone with landscape plantings around
the home. Weeds invade and compete
with plants for nutrients, water, and
sunlight. They are also unsightly in the
landscape. When the season first begins,
most of us do a great job of keeping
weeds under control. This is important in the short term,
but the long-term battle with weeds is often lost as the
season progresses and we get tired or head off to summer
vacation. With some basic knowledge about weed
biology and life cycles, we can maximize the
effectiveness of control methods we use in the home
landscape and garden areas.
Understanding Weeds
Most weeds are classified as annual, biennial, or
perennial. Annual and perennial weeds can be a grass
or broadleaf species, while most biennial weeds are
broadleaf. Annual weeds are prominent in the fall,
winter, and early spring (winter annuals), or in the
late spring, summer, and early fall (summer annuals).
These weeds sprout from seed when conditions such
as soil temperature are ideal for their growth.
Biennial weeds grow just two seasons. They grow
5
vegetatively the first year, then send up a seed stalk
the second year, and then die. Perennial grass and
broadleaf weeds usually go dormant in the winter and
grow back each season from permanent underground
plant parts such as a crown or rhizome. Knowing the
type of weed is important for determining when and
how it should be controlled. For example, herbicides
that affect weed seed germination should be applied
well before the seeds start to grow. Perennial weeds
are best controlled by herbicides in late summer—
when they are actively growing and storing reserves.
Success is improved when we consider control from
a weed ecology perspective that involves both
environment and weed biology. Like all other plants,
weeds are affected by environmental factors of light,
air, temperature, and moisture. An important concern
is limiting new weed seed introduction.
Weed seeds in the soil can be compared to making
deposits and withdrawals from a bank, or a “weed seed
bank.” Our actions (or lack of) lead to either a
withdrawal or deposit of seed in the soil bank.
Over time, enough seed withdrawals can be made to
significantly reduce weed pressure. But if not
managed, weed problems can increase due to new
deposits. Weed seeds can have significant longevity
in the soil (years and decades) and can be high in
number depending on the site. Certain species may
dominate the “bank” as well. When weeds are
allowed to go to seed, a large percentage of these
seeds cause problems the next year; and, another
percentage will remain in the soil to periodically
germinate, creating problems in future years.
Gardeners lose ground when weeds are allowed to go
to seed or if they are unintentionally introduced.
Manure and other un-composted materials are good
organic matter additions to the garden; but, they
can also contain weed seeds. Late-season weeds
can be a major source of new weed seed deposits.
By mid- to late summer, when it is too hot to work
in the garden or we go on vacation, weeds can take
over and go to seed.
Some weeds have the genetic characteristic of
flowering when days get shorter in the fall. This
day-length response results in weeds that quickly go
to seed soon after they germinate, producing seeds on
extremely small and young plants. For example, a
spring-germinating pigweed will get quite large by
the time seed heads form, while a late-summer
germinating pigweed will form a seed head when
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
the plant is only ankle height. Both cultural and chemical
techniques can be used to control weeds.
Cultural, Organic Weed Control
Cultural (and organic) methods include mulching;
hoeing or hand-pulling weeds; using a stale seed bed;
solarization; using weeder geese; and flaming.
Organic mulches (wood chips, newspaper, straw)
and inorganic mulches (landscape fabrics, mats, and
plastic mulch) do a good job of creating a barrier to
weed emergence. But, these materials can make the
tasks of transplanting shrubs and dividing perennials
more difficult. Organic mulch, in combination with
landscape fabric, provides exceptional weed control,
although weeds from wind-blown seed can sprout in
decaying mulches on top of the fabric. Research has
shown that, if left unmanaged, landscape fabric
covered with organic mulch can become as weedy as
beds not covered with it within a few short years.
Landscape rock would be a better choice of cover in
the long term.
* The cultivating, hoeing, and hand-pulling method
of weed control is effective for gardens, annual and
perennial bed areas covered with organic mulch, and
with exposed soil. Remove weeds when they are
young and have not developed a strong root system;
preferably soon after germination. Most weeds,
especially newly sprouted weeds, can easily be killed by
removing just the top, but others must be pulled by
the roots or they will re-sprout; a good example is
dandelion. Large-leafed garden plants such as sweet
corn and broccoli, and perennials such as hostas,
compete well with weeds by shading them out. Using
transplants can also provide a competitive advantage
compared to direct seeding of flowers and vegetables.

Using a stale seed bed simply involves repeated
cultivation or tillage in an area to encourage new
flushes of weeds. At least a two-week period is
allowed between tilling to allow time for weed seeds
to germinate and grow. This method helps reduce
populations in the weed seed bank.

Solarization, or covering bare soil areas with clear
plastic, sterilizes the soil and kills a percentage of
weed seeds. Solarization must be done in the heat of
the summer. It is mostly used in the Southwest and
desert climates, but it can be effective in the Midwest
if the summer is hot and the plastic stays in place at
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least 6 to 10 weeks. The soil should be finely worked
and leveled out, and the plastic should be laid tightly
against the soil for maximum contact. Its main
disadvantage is that the site is taken out of production
for the main summer growing season.

Pond geese that are allowed to range over the
garden do a surprisingly fair job of removing weed
seedlings from between garden plants, although small
garden plants will also be at risk.

The flaming method involves using a small,
portable propane burner to torch new weed seedlings
soon after they emerge.
Chemical Weed Control
There are several chemical weed control tools that
can be used in home gardens and landscapes.
Pesticides that kill weeds are herbicides, and these
herbicides are either classified as “pre-emergence” or
“post-emergence” in their action. When using any
chemical product, carefully read and follow all
label directions.

Pre-emergence materials are applied to the soil to
prevent weed seed germination. As the name implies,
the material needs to be in the soil before weeds
germinate. Thus, depending on whether weeds are
winter or summer annuals, timing the application is
critical. Apply too early, and the herbicide dissipates
before weed seeds start to germinate; apply too late,
and the seed has already germinated and will not be
affected.
There are several pre-emergence herbicides that are
recommended for home garden use, and they are sold
under different trade names. Check the label for these
“active” ingredients: bensulide, DCPA, napropamide,
and trifluralin. Preen™ is probably the most
commonly available pre-emergence herbicide, and it
is made from trifluralin. Corn gluten meal is an
example of an organic pre-emergence herbicide that
has been shown to inhibit weed germination. Each
pre-emergence material has certain weed species it is
most effective against. When two of these chemicals
are combined, a broader spectrum of control is
achieved. Remember that some established garden
and landscape plants can be sensitive to preemergence
herbicides, so carefully read and follow all label
directions, noting any sensitivity warnings.

Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
The second type of herbicide is post-emergence,
meaning it is applied to green tissue of living plants.
These herbicides can be selective, which means
they will not harm certain species of plants, or
non-selective, with the potential to kill whatever they
are sprayed on. They can also be classified as contact
herbicides, which burn and kill above-ground plant
parts, or translocated, meaning the herbicide is
moved from the leaves to the roots by the plant,
effectively killing the entire plant. This is important
when considering perennial weeds which emerge
each year from underground root structures.
Round-up™ is an example of a non-selective,
translocated, post-emergence herbicide. As related to
weed biology, these herbicides are most effective on
perennial weeds when applied late summer as the
plant translocates or moves nutrients downward for
winter storage. Vinegar has recently been formulated
into an organic, post-emergence contact herbicide,
which acts by burning green tissue.
The Bottom Line . . .
Regardless of the control method used, try to think
about how weed biology and ecology are affected by
your actions.
For example, some weeds need brief sunlight
exposure to germinate, and mulching prevents that
exposure. More importantly, minimizing soil
disturbance reduces weed seed exposure to light and
other things that stimulate germination. Shallow
cultivation or hoeing keeps new seed from being
brought up, as does “gently” pulling large weeds.
Hoe weeds when they are young or just emerging and
during the hottest part of the day, so they are less
likely to re-root. Young weeds are always more easily
killed than older weeds. Flaming and post-emergence
herbicides limit soil disturbance.
When watering, use drip or soaker hoses that put
water near the plants and not over the entire garden.
This watering technique will limit weed germination
between rows. Never allow weeds to go to seed.
Knowing the biology of weeds and applying the best
management tools at appropriate times will help
reduce the amount of time you spend on this chore.
For more information about weed control, consult
the Home, Yard and Garden Pest Guide (#C1391)
available through the Extension office.
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Follow Safety Precautions When
Doing Spring Yard Work
David Robson, Extension Specialist, PSEP
As surely as spring follows winter, some people will help
keep doctors and hospitals busy, taking care of hands and
feet that get mixed up with the business end of a power
lawn mower.
Your chances of keeping all your fingers and toes are
pretty good if you use power equipment properly. But, if
you use power equipment improperly, you are courting
injury and possibly even death.
Taking time to read or re-read the instruction manual is
still the best way to learn how to properly use a power
mower or garden tractor. Become thoroughly familiar
with the equipment's capabilities and limitations—its
safety devices and its potential hazards.
Follow these safety precautions when operating power
equipment:
· Check the area for sticks, stones and other debris before
you start mowing. Sharp, jagged pieces of cans and
bottles can be lethal when they are flying through the air.
· Keep children and pets out of the area in which you are
working.
· Do not permit young or inexperienced children to
operate power equipment.
· Keep your hands and feet clear of the mower discharge
chute. Many amputation injuries have occurred because
careless operators caught hands and feet in the whirling
blade of a mower.
· Wear heavy leather shoes for added protection. Never
operate a power mower when you are barefoot or in
sandals. If your mower came with a protective plate
attached to the back, leave it there.
· Keep the mower in top operating condition. When
making repairs or adjustments, you should stop the
mower and disconnect the sparkplug wire.
· Never refuel a hot or running engine. Do not overfill
with gas or oil. These liquids expand as they heat, and a
spillover could cause an explosion.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
· Always push the mower—never pull it. Mow steep
slopes sideways so the mower does not get away from
you.
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· Never carry riders on riding mowers or garden tractors.
When working on steep slopes, use extra
care to keep the mower from tipping.
Fragrant Memories--Look for rich,
culinary, sweet, pungent, spicy,
scents. Heliotrope (Heliotopium
arborescens) smells like vanilla or cherry pie. Sweet
Four-o'clock (Mirabilis longiflora) blossoms open in the
evening or on cloudy days revealing an orange-blossom
scent. (Other Four O'clocks may not be fragrant, but still
interesting.) Lavender which flourishes in dry gravelly
soils shares both fragrant flowers and foliage.
Garden of Sensory Delights
Manage Tomato Problems Now
Nancy Pollard, Unit Educator, Horticulture
Sandra Mason, Unit Educator, Horticulture & Environment
Sensory gardens invite interesting experiences whether a
container garden on the balcony of a condo in the sky, or
a five acre spread.
Tomatoes continue to be the most popular vegetable
grown in home gardens. As a testament to their
popularity in an article published at
one point "What's Wrong with my
Tomatoes?" prompted all kinds of
calls to our office.
Combine plants with a variety of textures, colors, shapes,
fragrances, and sounds to create gardens to savor. When
choosing plants, check to be sure they will do well in
your growing conditions: sun or shade; wet, medium, or
dry soil.
These suggestions are only a small taste of the sensory
experience a garden can offer.
Touch Me--Look for contrasting textures like rough
bark, smooth, soft, fuzzy, sticky, or waxy surfaces.
Lamb's ear (Stachys) is soft and wooly gray. Yarrow's
stiff flowers contrast soft foliage. Smooth stones invite
touch. Hens & Chicks (Echeveria elegans) sculptural
waxy gray leaves form rosettes (the hens) which send out
runners (the chicks).
Eye Candy--Look for contrasting line, form, shape,
texture, color. Lady's mantle,
(Alchemilla) traps dew drops which
sparkle in the waxy, crinkly, folds.
Gayfeather (Liatris spicata) displays
soft vertical flower spikes in white,
pink or purple blooms unusually from
the top downward. Swiss chard 'Bright
Lights' exhibit vibrant, near fluorescent colored midribs
running the length of the leaves.
Nature's Music--Ornamental grasses and pines make
gentle sounds. Moving water from a solar water fountain
also provide water for song birds. Hedges or soil mounds
(berms) planted with evergreens softens the sounds of
traffic.
Although the article contained great
information, gardeners were
obviously hungry for how to solve the
problem. Generally their questions started with "I saw
this article and it sounds like the same problem I have
every year on my tomatoes". Their description follows
with the first symptoms as a yellowing or browning of
the lower leaves.
With further inspection gardeners may notice the leaves
have spots. The lower leaves may continue to turn brown
but not drop off. The brown leaves hang like wet socks
on the stem as the disease moves up the plant.
Leaf spot diseases which can include septoria leaf spot
and early blight are common tomato problems. Both
fungi cause spots and can cause the leaves to quickly
yellow starting at the bottom of the plant. Septoria causes
small water-soaked spots which become circular to
angular with dark margins and grayish white centers.
Early blight causes small brown leaf spots with a targetlike series of concentric rings in each lesion. Click here
for pictures.
To prevent leaf spots improve air circulation around
plants. You should be able to easily walk around mature
plants. Good gardening techniques of mulching,
watering, and staking or caging vines will help. Try to
keep leaves dry by watering at the base of the plant and
watering in the morning.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
As with all diseases sanitation is important. Remove and
destroy infected leaves as soon as the symptoms start.
Make sure garden is cleaned of debris in fall. Weekly
fungicide sprays of maneb, chlorothalonil or copper
starting at the onset of disease can be helpful. If rain is
predicted, spray fungicide the day before rain. Copper
based fungicides are considered organic. Be sure to read
and follow all label directions.
Leaf spot diseases can be easily controlled in the garden
in the beginning stages of the disease, but are tough to
manage once the plants are ravaged by the disease.
Selection of disease resistant varieties such as the early
blight tolerant Mountain series developed at North
Carolina State (Mountain Pride, Mountain Supreme,
Mountain Gold, Mountain Fresh, and Mountain Belle)
can help.
Unfortunately tomatoes can get several diseases. The
fungal wilt diseases - fusarium and verticillium can also
be a problem; however most hybrids show resistance. As
in the leaf spot diseases, leaves of the plants infected
with the fungal wilt diseases will turn yellow and die
starting at the base of the plant and progress upwards.
However wilt diseases will not show the dark spots on
the leaves. With wilt diseases infected plants may also
appear stunted. Leaves on only one side of the plant may
show symptoms. Wilting might occur during the hottest
part of the day even when plants appear to have adequate
water. Both fusarium and verticillium cause discoloration
of the inner stem tissue.
Both fusarium and verticillium are soil borne diseases
and infect plants through the root system. They are not
controlled by fungicides. Selecting resistant varieties and
crop rotation are the best options for the wilt diseases.
Look for VF or VFN on the label after the name.
Other factors can cause wilting of tomatoes including
root rots, mechanical injury to roots or stems, toxins from
walnut trees and a bacterium. The bottom line is to get an
accurate identification of the problem before you reach
for the fungicides or prune at ground level. Suspected
plants can be taken to your local Extension office or the
UI Plant Clinic at 1401 St Mary's Road in Urbana. 217333-0519
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Baby Carrots at home
Nancy Pollard, Unit Educator, Horticulture
Planting your own baby carrots can be
satisfying,
Two types of baby carrots exist: true
baby carrots grown in the garden or
full size carrots that are peeled and
sliced to look like baby carrots.
The "baby carrots" we purchase bagged at the grocer are
actually peeled, shaped and polished slices. The shaping
process was invented in the late 1980's by a California
farmer as a way of making twisted and misshapen carrots
more appealing. The leftovers are used for juice or
animal feed. So shaped processed "baby" carrots will
look different than garden grown baby carrots.
Misshapen carrots grown in the home garden can also be
sliced, shaped or juiced.
There are many varieties of carrot available, in different
colors and lengths. All can be harvested early when
young and slender. Some varieties are naturally petite
and baby-like.
"Baby Spike' has roots only three to four inches long and
matures in just 52 days. 'Minicor' is more slender, with a
blunt tip and ready for harvest in 55 days. 'Little Finger'
takes 65 days and 'Short 'n Sweet' has a broader shoulder,
matures at four inches, is good for heavy or poor soil and
matures in 68 days.
Carrots can be sown repeatedly in Illinois. Repeated
planting spreads out the availability of fresh carrots from
late June through when the ground freezes.
Plant seeds one-fourth to one-half inch deep in April and
May, or a little deeper one half to three-fourth inch deep
when the soil is drier and warmer. Space seeds about one
third to one half inch apart.
Carrot seeds take about two weeks or more to germinate,
so planting a single quick sprouting radish seed every six
inches or so can help to mark the rows.
Radish "markers" plants can be harvested at 30 days. If
heavy rains occur after sowing, the soil surface may be
too packed for seedlings to emerge, so replant.
As carrots grow, thin them out, enjoying the small ones
that have been removed to give the others more room to
grow. Baby carrot tops are not usually strong enough to
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
stay attached to the carrot when pulled by the leaves, so
dig them to minimize damage.
Use a vegetable brush to remove specks of soil from the
carrots. Peel if desired. Raw or lightly cooked, carrots are
naturally sweet.
Wildlife in the Garden
Nancy Pollard, Unit Educator, Horticulture
Wildlife in the garden can be a challenge.
Often we plant gardens to attract birds and butterflies.
However, other wildlife may be annoying. Rabbits nip
off tender shoots, or girdle the bark of young trees;
squirrels eat food intended for birds, and nip off buds and
branches; skunks dig in the yard, raid garbage and leave
a memorable musk when frightened.
Uninvited wildlife is attracted by food, water and shelter.
Bird feeders, trash cans with lids easy to remove, and pet
food left outside overnight offer a smorgasbord
accidentally inviting wildlife. Here are some tips for
living with wildlife. More can be found on the University
of Illinois Extension Living with Wildlife website
http://web.extension.illinois.edu/wildlife/
Most animals, like humans are creatures of habit. Upon
observing landscape harm, take steps immediately before
their habits become firmly ingrained. Discouraging
damaging habits usually requires multiple strategies.
In a small garden, you can exclude rabbits with a
fence with wire mesh holes one inch or
smaller; or 1/4" x 1/4" square openings for
wire mesh cylinders for protecting young
tree trunks. The smaller size openings also
protects against mice. Purchase a four-foot
wide mesh roll. Bend the bottom six inches
outward. Trench the soil, and bury the wire
mesh six inches deep to prevent rabbits from
burrowing under the fence. This allows for three feet of
fence above ground. Gates provide entry points for
rabbits as well as people.
For squirrels, wildlife experts recommend a two-foot
wide metal collar six feet off the ground for isolated trees
and poles. Attach the metal collar with wires fastened
together with springs to allow for tree trunk growth.
Squirrels can jump eight feet, so this only works on
isolated trees. Trim back trees to prevent access to roofs
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and attics. If you have room, provide
corn for the squirrels away from the
bird feeders to distract them from the
feeders. Enjoy their antics.
Skunks range over 80 to 1800 acres, so their path may
wander through your back yard. Their smelly spray can
reach ten to twenty feet. Before spraying its musk, a
skunk signals its intent by stamping its front feet and
raising its tail. If you have skunks in the yard, keep on
hand the recipe and ingredients for skunk odor removal.
It can be used for washing skin, clothes, dogs and other
sprayed items. The peroxide in the solution may lighten
the fur of pets.
Here's a skunk odor removal recipe. Mix one
quart three percent hydrogen peroxide solution,
1/4 cup baking soda, and one teaspoon
liquid soap. Do not add water.
University of Illinois Extension, Pike
County, will be closed May 30 in
observance of Memorial Day.
We will also be closed July 4 for
Independence Day.
The articles in this newsletter have been provided
for you by University of Illinois Extension Educators
and University of Illinois, Pike County office.
Kristin Huls, County Extension Director
Newsletter Compiled and Designed by Cheryl Westfall, Office
Support Associate
If you have any questions or comments regarding the issue of “Down
To Earth”, please contact University of Illinois Extension, Pike
County, at (217) 285-5543.
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign College of Agricultural,
Consumer and Environmental Sciences
United States Department of Agriculture • Local Extension Councils
Cooperating University of Illinois Extension provides equal
opportunities in programs and employment.