Vol. 12, No.2
March/April 2008
University of Illinois Extension, Pike County Horticulture Newsletter
Pike County
1301 E. Washington St.
Pittsfield, IL 62363
Phone: (217) 285-5543
If you need a reasonable accommodation to participate
in any program we offer, please contact University of
Illinois Extension, Pike County at 217-285-5543.
Articles in This Issue:
Upcoming Events ................................................. 1
Germinating Flower Seed Isn’t Always Easy ..... 2
Easter Lilies ......................................................... 2
Azaleas – A Striking Flower ................................ 3
Control Scale Insects on Trees ............................ 4
Pruning Trees in Spring ...................................... 4
Spring Landscape Activities ................................ 5
Gardening with Allergies in Mind ....................... 6
A Passion for Purple Vegetables ......................... 7
Announcing Perennial Plant of the Year............ 8
The Wonders of Woodland Wildflowers ............. 9
Small Native Trees for A Flower Spring Show ... 10
Washing of the Salad Greens .............................. 11
The Master Gardener’s Plot ................................ 11
Upcoming Events
Program costs for each telenet is $2 or $5 if you would like
color handouts. If you would like a CD of the program
there is a $2 charge for each CD. All telenets will be held at
the Pike County Extension office beginning at 1:00 p.m.
Spring is here and it is time for the University of Illinois
Extension spring gardening programs. The spring series is
the second of four seasonal offerings for gardening
enthusiasts! Orchids 101, Containers with Pizzazz, and A
Palette of Annuals: From A to Z will be presented. Each
program will be offered twice for your convenience.
Horticulture Programs Offered during Spring 2008:
Orchids 101 is for beginners who want to learn the
basics of orchid growing. Have you ever wanted to
grow orchids but got scared off by their “diva”
reputation for high maintenance and their often high
price tag? Learn how to select orchids suitable for the
home, and how to keep them alive once you
get them there. Join Jennifer Nelson,
Horticulture Educator with University of
Illinois Extension, as she presents tips on
growing orchids in the home. Included will
be a discussion of selecting orchids wellsuited for the home, and their basic care and
troubleshooting. Orchids 101 will be offered
on Tuesday April 8, 2008 at 1:00 pm. Deadline to
register: Friday, April 4.
Containers with PIZZAZ will give you new ideas
for old containers. Think beyond geraniums and vinca
vine in a clay pot! Throw away the old traditions.
Why not plant a pair of old boots with purple petunias
for your home’s front entrance? Or plant an old sink
with sweet potato vines and ornamental millet. Tired
of clay pots – bring in some bright blue or lime green
containers. The great thing about container gardens is
they can add PIZZAZZ to otherwise dull areas such as
patios, decks, balconies and walkways. Jennifer
Fishburn, Horticulture Educator, University of Illinois
Extension, and Karen Grant, Master Gardener, will
present ideas for Containers with Pizzazz. Included
will be a discussion of container selection, plant
selection, design considerations and proper planting
and maintenance to help ensure success. Mark your
calendars for Tuesday, April 22, 2008 at 1:00 pm.
Deadline to register: Friday, April 18.
A Palette of Annuals from A to Z will surely get you
inspired! Say the word "flowers" and most people
think of annuals. Of course there are many types of
flowering plants, but annuals win hands down for
color, dependability, diversity, versatility, and
minimal maintenance. How can you not love plants
that knock themselves out all the way to (and
sometimes through) autumn. Join Jim Schmidt,
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Horticulture Specialist, as he shows various annuals
from cool season stars, to classic standards, to those
for hot, dry locations, as well as other categories. Jim
will discuss merits of growing these plants, give
cultivar suggestions, and tips for success just in time
for your spring planting. Plan on attending A Palette
of Annuals from A to Z on Tuesday, May 6 at 1:00
p.m. Deadline to register: Friday, May 2.
All programs offered in this Spring Series will be held
at University of Illinois Extension, Pike County, 1301
E. Washington St., Pittsfield, Illinois (inside the Pike
County Farm Bureau building.)
If interested please call the Pike County office at 217285-5543 and reserve a seat and packet of
information.
Germinating Flower Seed Isn’t Always
Easy
Flower seeds are often much smaller than vegetable
seeds. Some are so tiny, almost like dust, that
handling them is a real challenge. So if your flower
seeds fail to germinate, you—rather than the seed—
are probably at fault.
Good germination of flower seeds takes proper
temperature, moisture and oxygen. The procedure is a
lot easier to do indoors than in an outside flowerbed.
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germination, 70 to 80 degrees F in some cases.
Sometimes a plastic tent over the lights will hold
sufficient heat around the seed flats.
Use a light, porous medium for germinating the seed.
The ready-made brands available from your local
greenhouse or seed store work well. These mixes are
sterilized, so be sure you take every precaution to
maintain sanitation. Don't use dirty old containers or
tools.
Timing is often the most difficult decision for starting
annuals indoors. If you start too early, you will need a
lot of room and light to keep the plants spaced so they
don't become leggy. If you start too late, plants are too
small to set out and you lose the advantage of the
early start. As a general rule, plant seeds of the
slowest-growing varieties about 12 to 15 weeks before
planting out time, May 1 or so in central Illinois.
That means sowing seeds as early as the first week of
February. Fast growing seeds such as marigolds can
be sown as late as April 1 and still make sizeable
plants by early May.
Growing your own seedlings is quite a challenge.
Expect to have a few problems the first time you try.
But, once you master it, there is a lot of satisfaction in
knowing you did it yourself.
Easter Lilies
Small seeded flowers such as begonias,
impatiens, geraniums, snapdragons or
salvia need to be sown in February so
that plants are large enough to set out by
Memorial Day.
To grow your own plants, a small greenhouse would
be best, but few of us are fortunate enough to have
one. The next best option is use of fluorescent lights
in an area of your home where you can have some
control over temperatures and where spilled water
won't be inconvenient. A corner in the basement or an
unused room work well. The use of 40 watt, cool,
white fluorescent tubes about six inches apart and set
just above the plant tops should provide enough light
to keep the plants growing normally until time to
move them outside.
In addition to light, you'll need to figure out some way
to give the seeds the right temperatures they need for
The Easter season is a time of gloom-dispersing
freshness, whether it comes in mid March or mid
April. What better symbol for all the promises of
spring than the Easter lily in its splendor with
beautiful, clear bell-like flowers and an entrancing
fragrance?
In return for the pleasure the Easter lily
provides, moderate light and simple
care are all that are needed to enjoy it
indoors for some time after the plant is
received.
Even better, with a little care, you can
plant it outdoors after flowering, and it
will bloom again the same year. Easter lilies will
tolerate extremes that many other plants won't
survive.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
However, you can enjoy the blossoms longer if you
keep the plants out of direct sunlight or warm drafts. It
is worthwhile to place the plant on an unheated, but
frost-free, porch at night.
To keep the plant looking its best, remove the lily
flowers as soon as they wither, and clip any leaf ends
that may brown. After all the flowers have been
removed, you can keep the plant in a sunny window
for its pleasing foliage or remove it to a basement
window until danger from frost is over.
Should the plant begin to go into a rest period, the
leaves will start to yellow and fall. The plant should
then be kept on the dry side to discourage rots. The
lily can be planted in a sunny garden spot as soon as
danger from frost is past. Remove the plant from the
pot by inverting it; and, while gently holding the top,
tap the edge of the pot on a step or heavy board.
Open the root ball by pulling upward
and out from the center of the ball. A
few torn roots are better than an
undisturbed dense root mass that may
not be able to establish new roots in
the soil. Clumped and matted roots
are more likely to die and even injure the bulb.
Place the bulb a few inches deeper than it was in the
pot; open the root as much as possible, and work soil
through them. Thoroughly water the plant.
One-half teaspoon of a 10-10-10 fertilizer per gallon
helps promote new top and root growth. Soon after the
old tops die, new shoots will start. These will flower
later, usually in July or August, if given ordinary
garden care. Be sure that trees, weeds or other plants
do not shade the lily.
Although many people report good results, none of
the lily varieties are reliably hardy. If the ground is
well drained, you can cover plants with mulch during
the cold winter months—just as is done for roses.
Mulches of straw, leaves, evergreen boughs, wood
chips or ground corncobs are satisfactory. Most of the
lilies are killed by exposure to winter winds and sun.
Mulches limit the heaving action of the soil and, thus,
prevent bulb exposure.
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Azaleas—A Striking Flower
One of the most striking flowers on
display in florist shops is the azalea.
Available in various patterns and
shades of pink, rose, red crimson,
orchid and white, azaleas give just that
brilliant touch of spring that is needed in
homes at this time of year.
Don't confuse florist azaleas with varieties planted
outdoors in the landscape. Although they have similar
growing requirements, florist azaleas are not hardy if
planted outdoors.
To extend flowering, place azaleas in a cool spot with
bright light. Although azaleas will hold up amazingly
well in a warm, dry location, they will bloom quickly
and blossoms will only last a short time. Plants benefit
from humidity and an occasional syringing of foliage
with tepid water is desirable.
Azaleas like to be kept moist, but not sopping wet.
Most soils are lightweight and composed of mainly
peat moss. They’ll dry out quickly, and the plant will
wilt. Plants may need to be watered daily or every
other day.
Containers should have drainage holes. Leave it in the
water until bubbles stop rising, then remove and allow
the excess moisture to drain off.
Azaleas of all kinds require acid soils. Yellow or
chlorotic foliage usually indicates that the soil is too
alkaline, resulting in an iron deficiency within the
plant. Adding either chelated iron or iron (ferrous)
sulphate will help remedy or prevent this condition. A
variety of houseplant fertilizers are available which
acidify the soil while they provide an iron supplement.
Use one of these to avoid or correct problems.
A word of warning: yellow leaves may also be the
result of growing plants under conditions that are too
warm and dry.
Reblooming your florist azalea for continued
enjoyment next year is possible, but can be
challenging. After you have enjoyed the blooms, and
when outdoor temperatures are above freezing, place
your azaleas outdoors for a summer vacation. Avoid
direct sun, and be sure to check the plant daily for
watering needs.
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Before midsummer (July 1), carefully shape the plants
by removing tips of all rapidly growing shoots.
Continue to water and fertilize regularly.
In September, bring the azalea indoors to a cool room
with full sun. Provide temperatures of 40 to 50
degrees F from November until the first of the year.
Cool temperatures are needed for flower bud
development and without them few, if any, flowers
will form. Withhold fertilizer applications, and reduce
watering.
As buds continue to develop and swell in January or
early February, move your plant to a sunny window in
a somewhat warmer room and apply fertilizer. The
temperature for forcing flowers should be near 60
degrees F at night (10 to 15 degrees warmer during
the day), with plenty of humidity in the air.
In a few weeks, flowering begins—and your efforts
will be lavishly rewarded. At excessive temperatures,
buds may "blast."
To prolong flowering, remove green shoots as they
develop around the flower buds.
Control Scale Insects on Trees
Scale insects on shade and fruit trees as well as shrubs
can usually be controlled in late winter with a dormant
oil spray.
Dormant oil is lightweight petroleum oil usually sold
as dormant oil, superior oil or Volck oil spray. It is
applied to deciduous woody plants while they are
dormant to kill exposed overwintering insects.
Cottony maple, lecanium, euonymus and San Jose
scales, as well as European red mite, are the most
common pests controlled because they are difficult to
control at other times of the year.
Scales are protected from insecticides for most of the
year by either a hardened body wall or a secreted
waxy covering. Outside of dormant oil treatments,
scale insects are only susceptible to pesticides as
crawlers shortly after egg hatch.
The crawler stage lasts only for a few days before the
insect settles down into a leaf or branch to feed. It
then molts to the next nymph stage and develops its
protective covering.
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Mites are difficult to control during the summer
because they reproduce quickly and are not controlled
by most insecticides. Even the use of miticides may
kill mite predators that were keeping the harmful
mites in check.
When dormant oil is applied, it covers the
overwintering mite eggs, the overwintering scale
insects and any exposed insect eggs. This coating of
oil shuts off these animals' air supply and suffocates
them.
This pesticide is used while the plant is dormant
because the oil can also be toxic to the plant.
Applications before leaves start to emerge reduce this
problem.
For the same reason, dormant oils should be applied
only if the temperature for the 24 hours after treatment
stays above 40 F, so that the oil quickly evaporates off
the bark.
Evergreens and hard maples, such as sugar maple and
Norway maple, should not be sprayed with a dormant
oil spray due to possibilities of damage to these
plants. However, it is possible to spray Euonymus
vines (Big Leaf Wintercreeper) and lilacs to control
scales on them.
Don't worry if the leaves fall off the plants on the
Euonymus. They would have dropped when new
growth starts in a few weeks.
Dormant oil only needs to be applied once every three
or four years. Make sure to spray the areas beneath the
plant as well.
Pruning Trees in Spring
There is an old saying that you can prune a tree
whenever the saw is sharp. However, the effects of
pruning a tree can vary with the season and according
to how much of the tree is pruned away.
Early spring pruning of trees is
often preferred because plants are
approaching a period of rapid
growth and pruning wounds will
heal quickly. In general, if all you
want to do is trim out dead, weak or
diseased parts of the tree, this type of
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
pruning can be done at any time of the year without
drastic effects on the tree. If you prune to thin the
trees—to allow light for grass and shrubs—prune in
late winter or early spring. Heavy pruning done after
growth starts in spring can weaken a tree because it
forces the tree to use stored food for re-growth instead
of for new growth. Heavy pruning during late summer
should also be avoided because it can stimulate lush,
succulent growth.
Elm, ash and oak are an exception. Prune elm and oak
during late summer, fall or winter to avoid the change
of infection with Dutch elm disease and oak wilt
disease. Insects can spread these diseases, and fresh
wounds made during the growing season are likely
attractants. Ash trees under stress should not be
pruned during June or July because of the likelihood
of an infestation with ash borer.
Birch and maple are known as bleeders and will
"bleed" clear sap if pruned in early spring. Bleeding
will not harm a tree but causes concern to owners
because of sap loss. To avoid sap loss, prune after
trees are fully leafed out.
Many people feel large trees should be topped. This is
an unfortunate misconception. Rather than eliminating
"top heaviness," topping produces a weak tree subject
to major problems.
When a tree is topped, large branches are drastically
cut back in length. A majority of the small, leaf
bearing branches is also removed. Topping a tree
leaves many large stubs that can provide an ideal
entrance for insects and diseases. The shearing effect
results in a mass of growth the following year, near
the end of each cut. These branches are weak and
easily broken.
A more severe problem caused by topping occurs in
the root system. A delicate balance exists between the
leaf and root area. When a large amount of branches
are removed, portions of the root system will die as
there are not enough leaves to manufacture food for
the root system. Disease organisms that lead to rotting
frequently attack these dead and dying roots.
Improper pruning of limbs can also lead to weak,
hollowed trunks. Pruning cuts should be made close to
the trunk, a bud or branch. Do not leave stubs. Stubs
are an open invitation to rot and decay and eventually
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can lead to rot entering healthy tissue and the trunk.
Proper pruning averts this problem.
Proper pruning techniques include: removing dead or
dying branches, eliminating narrow, v-shaped crotch
angles, trimming out limbs that grow towards the
center of the tree, removing limbs that rub together,
making cuts close to the trunk or branch and not
leaving stubs.
Spring Landscape Activities
The seasons wax and wane. We
experience rakes and rain. Spring is
almost here according to the calendar
but the weather has us on a temperature
roller coaster ride. Rising warm spring
temperatures fuel our sense of
omnipotence in our gardens. Then a cold wave slaps
us back into the reality of spring weather. Rolling
temperatures bring questions about when to do what.
So get out your red pen and start checking.
General
Average last frost date is approximately April 21. For
tender plants such as impatiens, coleus, canna, basil,
and tomatoes, wait until after May 10 before planting.
(You will probably plant them the first nice day in
April, but hey, I tried to warn you).
Fruit/Vegetables
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Finish pruning apples and grape vines.
Plant hardy vegetables such as kale, leaf
lettuce, potatoes, spinach, and turnips.
Tree/Shrubs
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Prune trees and summer flowering shrubs
while still dormant. Many shrubs can be
reduced in size by using renewal or heading
back methods. Sterilize tools in between each
cut with 10% bleach when pruning diseased
plants. Summer flowering shrubs bloom on
new wood after mid June. Renewal pruning
method is the removal of the oldest stems
leaving the younger stems to develop.
Wait to prune early flowering forsythia and
lilac until after flowering.
If needed, rejuvenate shrubs such as Anthony
Waterer spirea, honeysuckle, redtwig
dogwood and privet by cutting stems down to
4 to 6 inches.
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Transplant or plant trees and shrubs. Plants
preferring spring transplant over fall include
most oak, birch, bald cypress, dogwood, and
magnolia.
Inspect trees with a past history of tent
caterpillar. Look for dark brown or gray egg
masses that encircle the twig. Destroy by
pruning or scratching off with thumbnail.
Apply dormant oil spray to euonymus to
control the insect euonymus scale. Dormant
oil sprays will also give partial control of pine
needle scale. Temperatures should be above
freezing for 24 hours after spraying.
Some scale species such as oystershell scale
are not controlled by dormant oil sprays. Get
accurate identification of insect to determine
control program.
Flowers
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Clean up any plant debris that wasn't removed
last fall. Gradually pull back mulch from plant
crowns.
Cut back ornamental grasses to 4-6 inches
before growth starts. The cool season grasses
such a Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis x
acutiflora) green up quickly in spring so don't
wait. The popular Miscanthus cultivars are
warm season grasses so a little more time is
available to prune them.
Late March – early April gradually pull back
mulch from roses.
Be on the look out for rabbit damage on
newly emerging perennials and spring bulbs.
Fencing or inverted wire mesh baskets
provide the only complete protection.
Repellants may give some control.
Lawns
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Wait until broadleaf weeds are actively
growing before treating with postemergence
herbicides.
Get lawn mower ready. Sharpen blades,
change oil and clean air filter.
Wait until late April to early May for first
fertilizer application.
Rake up any twigs and debris.
Wait until April to apply crabgrass control
otherwise a second application may be
necessary to control late season crabgrass
seed germination.
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Establish lawns by sod throughout season as
long as adequate water is available.
Establish or renovate turf by seed. Prepare
soil properly and get good seed to soil
contact. Select turf mixes and blends
appropriate to the site and to maintenance
practices. Southern Illinois – March; Central
Illinois – March15-April 15; Northern Illinois
– April.
Gardening With Allergies In Mind
A snort, a sneeze, followed by two sniffles. Ah it's the
call of the allergy sufferer. It's estimated that 50
million people suffer each year from allergies. Many
of us look forward to spring, but for others it can
mean a season of suffering from sneezing, runny nose,
and itchy watery eyes. Allergy symptoms range from
being an annoyance to life threatening. Although
many things can trigger allergies including pet dander,
work, mold, and fragrances, pollen is a common
allergen.
Not all plants have the same likelihood of causing
allergies. Plants that are wind pollinated have the most
potential to create allergies. These plants produce vast
quantities of pollen grains that are carried by the wind
to a receptive female flower. Unfortunately the cloud
of pollen can also end up in our noses and eyes. Wind
pollinated plants tend to have relatively small green or
brown flowers. The flowers may go completely
unnoticed by most people. A good example is
ragweed, a common allergy producing plant. Many
tree and shrub flowers are barely noticed visually, but
pack a punch nasally.
Most people blame goldenrod for
their allergies when it is more
likely the ragweed that blooms at
the same time that is causing their
symptoms. Goldenrod is insect
pollinated. Insect pollinated plants
tend to have heavy sticky pollen so it will stick well to
bees and other insects as they travel from flower to
flower. These plants are much less likely to cause
allergies since the pollen isn't in the air. Bright, highly
colored, showy flowers are usually insect pollinated.
People's sensitivity to certain plants can vary widely
so always discuss your allergies with your health care
professional. Plants shed pollen at different times of
the year so a look at the calendar might help to narrow
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
down the culprit. Trees and shrubs are some of our
first bloomers.
Plant sex can also be the source of sniffling and
sneezing. Some plants are both male and female while
others have male plants and female plants. Since it's
the males that shed pollen, beware of male plants.
Unfortunately for allergy sufferers male plants are
often selected for planting since the fruits of many
female trees such as ash or Kentucky coffeetree are
considered unsightly or messy.
Here are a few trees with allergy causing potential:
Ash (male), cottonwood, elm, hickory, juniper/cedar,
mulberry, oaks, walnut, pine, poplar (male),
sycamore, Russian olive, and willow.
Other allergy producing plants can include: Kentucky
bluegrass (if allowed to flower), orchard grass,
timothy grass, castor bean, pigweed and lamb's
quarter.
Since many of these plants are throughout our
communities it's not practical to completely eliminate
the source of pollen but if you are adding plants to
your landscape and are an allergy sufferer, consider
the allergy potential of a plant before planting. We
may also want to reevaluate plant selections in
playgrounds.
Once you determine which plants may be causing
your symptoms, you can then figure the worst and
best times to work in the garden. If you do go outside
during the worst times, reduce your exposure by
wearing gloves, a long sleeved shirt, hat, and
sunglasses or goggles. Also wearing a pollen mask
may be necessary. After working outside take a
shower and thoroughly wash hair and clothes.
You also have a good excuse to delegate certain
garden chores to others. Such as:
 Working in the compost pile where molds
may be prevalent.
 Working with mulch or straw.
 Raking or mowing lawns. Mowing can be
particularly bad since it causes grass, pollen,
and mold to go airborne.
In the mean time, look to the bees to tell you which
flowers are best for a sneezeless spring.
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For more information, check out Tom Ogren's book,
Allergy-Free Gardening.
A Passion for Purple Vegetables
To be healthy humans we are encouraged to eat a
rainbow of foods everyday; red, orange, yellow,
green, blue, and even purple. At first glance fruits
reign supreme for blues and purples with blueberries,
plums, grapes, and raspberries. However with some
fanciful selections vegetables can include the entire
rainbow including the elusive blues and purples.
Eggplant is the quintessential purple vegetable. As a
member of the tomato family eggplant grows as well
here as its pepper and tomato cousins. Eggplant
varieties range from purple, violet to white. If
harvested too late eggplant can be tough with large
chewy seeds. One new variety gives us plenty of
opportunity to pick eggplant at the peak of purple
perfection. Eggplant 'Hansel' is a 2008 All America
Selections winner. Clusters of fruit are
produced on compact upright plants
of only three feet tall. 'Hansel' has
very few seeds, and stays tender
whether it's picked at three-inch
length or even at ten-inch length.
Our passion for purple extends into carrots,
cauliflower, peppers, and snap beans. Carrot 'Purple
Haze' is a 2006 All America Selections winner. It's a
tie-dye dream with its deep purple skin and bright
orange flesh. At 7-8 inches long 'Purple Haze' carrot
provides many fresh slices for quite the savory sight
in a salad.
Tired of plain ol' white cauliflower? How about the
deep purple of 'Violet Queen' with its open broccolilike heads? Or 'Garffiti' cauliflower with its intense
purple heads? Both look dramatic served raw with
dips.
The deep purple pods of 'Purple Queen' snap bean are
easy to spot on the bushy plants. Another snap bean
variety 'Royal Burgundy' can be used raw in salads to
show off the deep purple at its best. If dark purple is a
bit too bold, why not try 'Tanya' bean with its large
flat pink pods. Purple beans don't keep their color
after cooking, but they will be a favorite for their
excellent taste and texture.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Peppers offer a pantheon of purple. 'Islander' bell
pepper has lovely light lavender skin with pale flesh.
If left on the plant peppers go through their own
rainbow of colors as they continue to ripen. Once
'Islander' turns light purple it will age to dark red
passing through multi-colored phases of yellow and
orange along the way. Some peppers are so purple
they appear black as with 'Black Pearl' and 'Pretty in
Purple'. Several tomato varieties such as 'Cherokee
Purple' proclaim purple, but none are the pretty purple
of peppers.
Our penchant for purple includes 'Early Purple
Vienna' kohlrabi with its deep purple skin and white
flesh, deep purple scallions, purple salad greens, and
purple tomatillos.
Purple basil is as lovely in the garden as it is on the
plate. Numerous varieties of purple basil are available
including: 'Ararat' (mottled green and purple); 'Dark
Opal', 'Osmin Purple'; 'Red Rubin'; and 'Purple
Ruffles'. Plant purple basil with pink petunias for a
spectacular look in the garden or in containers.
Taste is on the tongue of the betaster, but some purple
varieties are said to be sweeter than their green
counterparts. 'Purple Passion' asparagus is reported to
be sweeter and more tender than green asparagus.
Unfortunately the purple color fades to green during
cooking of most vegetables. To retain as much
nutrition and color, don't overcook vegetables. Also
adding a little lemon juice or vinegar to the vegetables
during cooking may help to produce a prettier final
product.
Farmers markets and some grocery stores have added
color oddities to their veggie varieties, but you may
have to grow your own purple preferences. But be
forewarned. These veggies are so pretty in the garden
you may feel a slight pang of purple pain at picking
time.
Announcing Perennial Plant of the Year
Angelina, Hillary, Fergie, Cher - just a few of the
ladies recognized by their first names. In the
gardening world a lovely lady named Rozanne has
become a perennial favorite. The Perennial Plant
Association has elevated Geranium 'Rozanne' to high
priestess of the flower garden as the 2008 Perennial
Plant of the Year.
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This winner is not just another pretty face in the
garden. Award winners are chosen by the members of
the Perennial Plant Association for the plant's beauty,
but also for its durability, suitability to a wide range of
climate types, low maintenance, multiple seasonal
interest, and easy growing nature. As far as I know no
superdelegates were involved.
The Perennial Plant Association (PPA) is a trade
organization comprised of growers, retailers,
educators, and garden writers that are dedicated to the
improvement of perennial plants through education
that enhances production, promotion and utilization of
perennial plants.
One look at Geranium 'Rozanne' in the garden quickly
seals a gardener's love for her. She is
draped in iridescent violet-blue,
slightly cup-shaped flowers with
purple-violet veins streaming
through the white centers and
blue petals. The bloom period is
remarkable with flowers starting
in late spring and continuing well
into fall. The dark green leaves have deeply cut
margins and a slight hint of chartreuse colored
marbling. In fall the leaves turn a lovely coppery red
for a bit of late color in the flower garden.
'Rozanne' has a noteworthy stage appearance in the
garden at 20 inches tall mounding to 24-28 inches
wide. She is a tough gal surviving cold, heat, and
drought. She appears to have no insect or disease
problems. She doesn't take much maintenance;
however, similar to many perennial geraniums her
appearance is improved with a severe haircut down to
three inches in August.
This year's winner has multiple uses in the landscape
as a ground cover or in the front of the flower garden
as a border or single specimen plant. 'Rozanne' is
attractive paired with some of the past winners of the
perennial plant of the year such as the white daisy
Leucanthemum 'Becky', the white Phlox 'David', or
deep purple-blue spiked flowers of Salvia 'May
Night'. Pink flowers of Salvia 'Rose Queen', Salvia
'Pink Friesland', Veronica 'Tickled Pink' or Purple
Coneflower 'Magnus' are also dramatic in
combinations with 'Rozanne'. Let her ramble around
daylilies, peonies, or roses. Give 'Rozanne' a backdrop
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
with ornamental grasses such as Feather Reed Grass
'Karl Foerster' or Miscanthus 'Morning Light'.
The majority of the time I have whole-heartedly
agreed with the Perennial Plant Association picks for
perennial plant of the year. This year is no exception. I
have found Geranium 'Rozanne' to be a winner in
every way. Just a couple past perennial plants of the
year, specifically Veronica 'Sunny Border Blue' with
its powdery mildew problems and Scabiosa 'Butterfly
Blue' with its propensity to die every winter, have
been disappointments. For reliable perennial
performers, check out past winners at Perennial Plant
Association's website www.perennialplant.org
Don't forget to order your daffodils during
The American Cancer Society's
Daffodil Days. The flowers will
bring hope and cheer to cancer
patients while raising money to
support cancer research,
prevention and early detection
education, advocacy, and patient
services. The daffodils you purchase will be delivered
anonymously to cancer patients during the week of
March 17 but you must order before February 22.
Bunches of 10 daffodils are only $10. Potted bulbs,
vased flowers, and even a stuffed bear to accompany
the flowers is also available. For more information on
ordering daffodils or to volunteer to assist the
campaign, please call The American Cancer Society at
(217) 356-9076. Ordering information is also
available on-line at daffodil.acsevents.org or
www.cancer.org/daffodils.
The Wonders of Woodland Wildflowers
Tulips and daffodils aren't the only spring flower
show offs. One of the best spring displays is occurring
in the local woodlands. Jack-in-the-pulpit, dutchman's
breeches, toothwort, trillium, dog tooth violet and
blue-eyed Mary – the names are as delightful as the
flowers. Look quick because these guys and gals are a
bit shy at showing their bloomers.
Jack-in-the-pulpits are preaching in a woodland near
you. Their unusual flowers are on a cylindrical
column – alias Jack. The flowers are surrounded by a
tubular petal-like structure with an arching hood –
alias the pulpit. Why it isn't Harry-in-the-pulpit or
Jane-in-the-pulpit seems to be a mystery.
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Mayapples are very obvious right now. Their colonies
of miniature green umbrellas are prefect candidates to
protect wood nymphs from the rain. Their white
flowers are held underneath the large leaves, but only
on plants with twin umbrellas.
The lacy blue-green leaves of dutchman's breeches are
reminiscent of their relatives the bleeding hearts. The
flowers dangle like pants (or breeches) on a
clothesline.
The batman-looking bloodroot leaves are visible but
the flowers have long since shown their glory. Spring
beauties are a chorus line of pink and white flowers
dancing among the other lovelies. These beauties are
just about the first and last of the spring wildflowers
to bloom.
Purple trillium shows off its dappled leaves in whorls
of three. The purple flower is held erect above the
leaves and is also known as purple wake-robin.
Virginia bluebells, wild sweet William and blue-eyed
Mary are never disappointing. The pink buds of
Virginia bluebells open to blue bell-like flowers
dangling in arching clusters on the two feet tall plants.
Look close and you will see a few white or pink bells
among the sea of blue. Wild sweet William has blue
phlox-like flowers with sweet fragrance. Blue-eyed
Mary flowers have a split personality with 2 petals of
white and 3 petals of blue.
Solomon's seal will soon be in bloom with its arching
stems and dangling flowers. A variety of Solomon's
seal with green and white leaves is available in garden
centers.
Once established native wildflowers are durable and
well adapted to our climate. Generally woodland
wildflowers grow and flower before the leaves appear
on the trees. The best planting spots recreate a
woodland setting. Add leaf compost to the soil before
planting and mulch with shredded bark and leaves
after planting. Additional fertilizers are not necessary.
Since most spring wildflowers are not
visible during the summer, grow
them with groundcovers such as
sweet woodruff, vinca or wild
ginger. Tuck some wildflowers
next to hostas, ferns, fringed
bleeding hearts or astilbes.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Do not dig plants from the wild, no matter how
plentiful you think the plants are. First many
wildflowers do not transplant well from the wild
especially when they are in flower, so they are likely
to die. Also digging flowers may damage nearby
plants and disturbs the forest floor for invasion of
weedy non-native plants.
When purchasing wildflowers, look for plants
designated as "nursery propagated". Plants labeled
"nursery grown" may still have been dug in the wild.
Small Native Trees for A Spring Flower
Show
It is that time of year when we are reminded of some
of the true mysteries of life. Why aren't redbud trees
called "pinkbuds"? Why is that pink flowered weed
covering fields right now called "henbit" and not
"turkey chew"? Why aren't male lady bugs called
"gentleman bugs"? For now we will leave these
questions to the great thinkers of the world.
We don't always have a chance to plant a large tree,
but just about any landscape has a spot for a small
flowering tree. Redbud flowers add a pink blush to the
spring landscape. Redbud, Cercis canadensis, grows
as a native under story tree throughout the forests of
the eastern US. It can grow to 30 feet tall and a bit
wider at maturity. The heart shaped leaves emerge
with a reddish tinge. Although it is generally not a
long lived tree in comparison to oaks, it is fast
growing when given a bit of water and fertilizer.
Redbud also blooms at an early age of 4-7 years. The
trunks of older trees will often bear flowers.
I would rank Flowering Dogwood as the tree most
often killed, then replanted, then killed again by wellmeaning home gardeners. We love its large white
bracts (those actually aren't the petals) of Flowering
Dogwood in spring. Flowering Dogwood, Cornus
florida is native to a large range of the eastern US. We
are about as far north as it is found in Illinois. Because
of its wide range, southern plant sources are not
reliably hardy here. Ask the garden center personnel
where the trees were grown. Also Flowering
Dogwoods need special attention for them to thrive.
They are understory trees so they like afternoon
shade, wood mulch, plenty of organic matter and
moist well-drained acidic soil.
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In my experience the Illinois native Pagoda Dogwood,
Cornus alternifolia is much better adapted to our
landscapes. The small white flowers are held in
clusters along horizontal branches. It has a pretty fruit
show with red to black berries held on red stalks.
Birds love the berries. Pagoda Dogwood also prefers
some shade and mulching. If you have killed too
many flowering dogwoods, consider the Pagoda
Dogwood.
Another small native tree is the Carolina Silverbell,
Halesia tetraptera (H. Carolina). It is not as well
known, but is probably one of the nicest small trees
for shady sites. The white bell shaped flowers appear
in clusters in late April. Carolina Silverbell has very
few insects and diseases, but does need a slightly
acidic soil. It makes a nice companion with
rhododendrons and azaleas. The cultivar 'Arnold Pink'
has rose pink flowers. 'Wedding Bells' bears larger
flowers.
Few flowers rival the 4-8 inch long panicles of red
flowers of Red Buckeye, Aesculus pavia. As a large
shrub or small tree it can grow to 10 to 20 feet tall.
Even though it flowers in dense shade, a partial shady
site with plenty of organic matter and mulch is best.
Keep in mind Red Buckeye does produce the
poisonous buckeye nuts.
Another small buckeye is the Bottlebrush Buckeye,
Aesculus parviflora. Its 12 foot tall thickets make a
lovely transition from landscape to forest. Its white
one-half-inch flowers are held in huge 8-12 inch
upright panicles. A large mass of Bottlebrush Buckeye
is a spectacular sight. It blooms later than most trees
and shrubs in June into July. Even later blooming is
the cultivar 'Rogers' which was introduced by the late
U of I Professor Joe McDaniel.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Washing of the Salad Greens
You love salad greens, but after the 2006 spinach
recall, you wonder what to do to handle the greens
safely. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has
a few tips on handling produce like greens…safely.
When buying produce, including greens, buy produce
that isn’t bruised or damaged. In the grocery cart and
when bagging foods to take home, separate greens
from meat, poultry or seafood products to avoid crosscontamination.
For storage—keep greens in a clean refrigerator with a
temperature of 40 F or below. If greens are pre-cut,
they should be refrigerated within two hours to
maintain quality and safety.
Regarding food preparation—pre-washed, bagged
produce can be used without further washing. If it’s
pre-washed, it will be stated on the package. As an
extra measure of caution, you can wash the produce
again just before using. Pre-cut or pre-washed produce
in open bags should be washed before using, as should
bagged greens that do not state they have been prewashed.
All unpacked vegetables and greens as well as those
packaged and not marked pre-washed, should be
thoroughly washed before eating. This suggestion
from the FDA includes produce grown conventionally
or organically at home as well as produce that is
purchased from a grocery store or a farmer’s market.
To wash fruits and vegetables, place them
under cold, running water just before
eating, cutting or cooking. The FDA does
not recommend using soap, detergent or
commercial-produce washes.
Drying produce with a clean cloth towel or paper
towel may further reduce bacteria that may be present.
Lastly, start food preparation with clean hands,
cleaning with warm water and soap for 20 seconds.
Wash hands before and after preparing fresh produce.
Also be sure your kitchen is clean. Counters and
equipment like knives and cutting boards should be
cleaned before and after each step of food prep.
For more information on how the FDA works to keep
produce safe, visit them online at: www.fda.gov.
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Garden Spinach Salad
1 pound fresh spinach
1/4 cup fresh green onions, including tops, sliced
6 radishes, sliced
1 cup fresh mushrooms, sliced
3 hard cooked eggs, sliced
4 slices of bacon, cooked, crumbled
1/2 cup light Italian salad dressing
Wash and rinse spinach, green onions, radishes and
fresh mushrooms with cold water and dry thoroughly
on paper towels. A salad spinner works great for
drying the spinach. Tear spinach into bite size pieces
in salad bowl. Slice green onions, radishes and
mushrooms and add to spinach. After boiling eggs,
cool, peel and slice the egg. Place on the salad. Add
cooked and crumbled bacon. Top with salad dressing
and gently toss before serving. Makes 4 servings.
Nutrient analysis per serving: 234 calories, 11 grams protein,
14 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams fiber, 16 grams fat, 174
milligrams cholesterol, 202 milligrams potassium, 920
milligrams sodium.
“A little Madness in the Spring
“Is wholesome even for the King.” Emily Dickinson
The Master Gardener’s Plot
by Duane Lanchester
I have been to Seattle. I returned
bearing news: Spring was coming!
Although those Pacific breezes of February which
encouraged pansies, flowering bushes, and spring
bulbs in Western Washington had not yet reached
Western Illinois, I told people it would soon be warm
enough for the joy of gardening! (And for ticks,
weeds, high humidity, moles, thunderstorms, dusty
rural roads, gardens full of rabbits...!) And I was
right!
N.B., Preparing for Spring madness is not the same as
preparing for March Madness. In Seattle I talked to a
rabid Duke fan; Duke was eliminated in the second
round of the NCAA play-offs.
While we were in Seattle we spent two days at the
2008 Northwest Flower and Garden Show. I’ve been
to the Garden and Flower Show before - several
times. And I’ve written about it - several times. And
if you’re tired of reading about it, I’m pleased; that
means somebody remembers something I wrote.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
This year the headline event at the NWF&GS was an
appearance by that noted garden guru, Sally Field.
(Well, she won an Oscar for playing a cotton farmer,
didn’t she?) But the heart of the show was still the
exhibition gardens. These are huge and elaborate
displays of stone walls, waterfalls, full grown trees,
boulders and buildings and all sorts of plants.
Impressive! And helpful - if you want to learn how to
decorate your garden with candelabra and musical
instruments; how to build a really ugly fence out of
skis; how to tie red apples on the branches of a bare
tree; fill your garden with recorded bird songs; have
metal crows staring at your scarecrow; or put
flowering dogwood and tassel ling corn and full
blown sunflowers all in the same arrangement.
In the past, I have said the crowds around the
exhibition gardens were so thick you had to be
satisfied to look at the backsides of people looking at
exhibition gardens. This year it seemed to me those
Pacific Northwest backsides took up less room than a
similar number of Pike County backsides. Do you
think this is because people in Seattle: a. Drink more
coffee; b. Spend more time in the rain; c. Eat less and
exercise more?
In one of the hundreds of commercial and educational
booths at The NWF&GS, I picked up a neat little
pamphlet, “Garden Wise: Non-Invasive Plants for
Your Garden”. The booklet has descriptions and
color pictures of 16 invasive plants and three noninvasive alternatives for each one. The web site
(www.invasivespeciescoalition.org) says “These
booklets were compiled by master gardeners and
horticulturists to help gardeners choose alternatives to
invasive species.” There are versions of this pamphlet
for both Western and Eastern Washington;
plants invasive in one region may not be
invasive everywhere. Butterfly bush
{Buddleja davidii) is clogging streams and
crowding out native plants in the Seattle
area. It is considered one of the twenty
worst invasive plant pests in Great Britain.
New Zealand would like to eradicate it. But it’s never
been a problem in Pike County. Some kinds of ivy in
the Pacific Northwest are worse than morning glory or
bindweed in Western Illinois. A tree on the Olympic
Peninsula can be covered with a ton of ivy. I pulled
all the ivy off our trees but I don’t think I needed to do
that. Unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be a
“Garden Wise...” or some similar publication for
Illinois or Missouri. So I don’t know if Porcelain
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Vine is a non-native, invasive threat or a useful and
attractive spreading vine suitable for my dog pen.
I don’t even know if the plant my nursery calls
Porcelain Vine is the same plant you may find in your
nursery called Porcelain Vine. This is why it may be
important to use scientific names. In the last issue of
“Down to Earth” there was a clever and helpful article
about berries. Along with raspberries and cranberries
and blueberries there was mention of huckleberries.
The writer of the piece was not fond of the
huckleberries he knew and if huckleberries are the
plant he described, I don’t think I would be either.
But “real” huckleberries have a different
scientific name and grow at high elevations in the
western mountains. Huckleberries are the state fruit
of Idaho. I’ve never had a truffle, but a huckleberry
pie baked in a lattice crust with a generous amount of
sugar has to be at least as desirable gourmet treat as
that French fungus.
Did you notice this column sets a record by not
containing even one useful piece of information? I
need to get out and plant some radishes, spread some
lettuce seed, look at the crocuses -- and let the
madness that is a garden in the spring save me from
my late winter cynicism. Good gardeners, go crazy!
You’ll feel better.
The articles in this newsletter have been
provided for you by University of Illinois
Extension, Pike County office.
The following have contributed articles to this
newsletter:
Duane Lanchester
David Robson
Martha Smith
Sandra Mason
Jananne Finck
Pike Co. Master Gardener
Horticulture Educator
Horticulture Educator
Horticulture Educator
Nutrition and Wellness Educator
Compiled and Designed by Cheryl Westfall, Secretary
If you have any questions or comments regarding the issue of
“Down To Earth”, please contact University of Illinois Extension,
Pike County, at (217) 285-5543.
Jennifer Mowen, County Extension Director
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign College of
Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences
United States Department of Agriculture • Local Extension
Councils Cooperating
University of Illinois Extension provides equal opportunities in
programs and employment.