[[1]] *1
Extract of a letter from J.D.H to F[rances]. H[enslow]. March 10th 1849
"Camp on the Sikkim--Terai"
I lately met Mrs. Campbell & all her children on their way from Monghyr (on the
Ganges) up to Darjeeling. They had been spending the cold season at the former
place. & arrived at one of the Bungalows on the road, where we were stopping on
our march across the country & at right angles to their route. You would have
laughed to see a Lady’s Travelling Establishment in the East. It is far enough from
comfortable; & alternative, she has none, except to walk, a thing out of the
question, or to be carried on men’s bare shoulders. Mrs. C[ampbell]’s Palkee was
rather large though not exceeding the dimensions of 2 coffins. One of the children
was stowed away at her feet, another was packed away upon a sort of shelf or
upper story (inside the Palkee) above the Mother’s head. The English nurse, with
the two other children, occupied a second Palkee; & this good woman being rather
of the stoutest, the bearers rather grumbled at the load. Then came the native
female attendants, each carried in a little suspended cage, or covered chair; & the
men servants who ran on foot. The heat being already great, the dust raised by the
Bearers feet was choking, & the motion of the Palkee most fatiguing. Sometimes
the party had travelled all day & night, but they stopped, when they could, at the
Bungalows, which were erected by Government, along the principle roads, for the
convenience of Travellers, who pay so much for the use of the house. In all the
large stations it is customary for strangers to go to the Dwellings of the residents,
whether known to them, or not; & such arrivals occasion no surprise, or
disturbance. Hospitality is universal, & though its exercise costs little the
accommodation is no trifling boon. All provisions are so cheap, that the poorest
resident in India sits down to a meal, which would serve a dozen people.
[[2]] Scarcely any food will keep for 24 hours; & as your servants will touch none of
your polluted victuals, what you do not eat is given to the Dogs. Servants are as
plenty as provisions: they only cost their wages & would therefore be very cheap, if
their stupidity and carelessness did not occasion incessant breakage & waste, & to
render the item of attendance in India, very far from economical. My friend Mr.
Hodgson, for instance, has an old house keeper, who (mis)manages all the rest;-quarrels about half farthings, &, in his zeal to save runs up glorious bills, for
indiscriminate trash, & regularly omits to buy what is good when opportunity offers.
There are 3 private servants who look to their master & to his clothes & attend the
rooms. 3 table servants one of whom is a sort of butler. (I am sorry to say he
cheats Mr. Hodgson right & left, makes a great fuss, & does nothing but enrich
himself. Kitchen servants, sweepers, cleaners & messengers.-- 4 men to take care
of 2 ponies & 2 men to look after 4 Dogs -- these must not be forgotten. Then
come 3 shooters, & 2 Bird--stuffers & skinners & 2 Artists. One native writer of
English, whose English only a native can read, & nobody can understand;-- a
learned Pundit who writes Hindu, Persian & such lore; several Gardeners & a
whole village of Coolies, or Hill--People, who dig, sow, plant & build, but but[sic]
never have anything to reap, or to shew[sic], except on certain spots of piece--,
work, which their master, himself takes care of the trouble of Superintending -These people all receive wages varying from 8 shillings to 50 Shillings per month;
& they eat, drink & sleep & smoke,-- & make profound bows (Salaāms,) which
latter, any casual observer would consider to be the sole, or at least the chief duty
they are hired to perform. But to return to Mrs. Campbell; her children have lost all
their color in the hot plains, even during the cold season; & though the little
creatures were well, & in boisterous Spirits, they looked pale & thoroughly Indian. I
have since heard
[[3]] that the girl was seized with fever soon after we left, & I think they will all want
the mountain air. Poor things, they had brought to me a present of a beautiful
Palm--wood walking stick (which I destine for the museum) & they came running
into my tent with their offering, as soon as they arrived & before I was up in the
morning. The little girl is a very clever child, & used to write me the funniest letters
when I was in the mountains, & to send me oranges & sponge--cakes, which
generally reached me in a squashed condition, after my return to Sikkim. And now
I must break off ; for I have heaps of letters to write; & this travelling life is not so
favourable for Correspondence, as the rainy season was, at Darjeeling. The
Asiatic Society, who both as a body & individually, have treated me most
honorably, beg for a resumé of my Tours, which I must draw up, for them, & for my
Father, too, -- kind regards to all your family -- (signed) J.D. Hooker
ENDNOTES
1. This letter is a copy, written in hand not that of the original author, JDH, and is
not signed by him. The copy was probably made by JDH's mother or sister.
Please note that work on this transcript is ongoing. Users are advised to study
electronic image(s) of this document where possible.