447 version 8
Page 1 of 4
Demonstrate lead climbing skills on multi-pitch rock climbs
Level
4
Credits
12
Purpose
People credited with this unit standard are able to: select, plan, and
undertake a multi-pitch climb; demonstrate safe change-over techniques at
belay stations; apply climbing skills to a simulated rescue situation on a multipitch route; and abseil on a multi-pitch route.
Subfield
Outdoor Recreation
Domain
Rock Climbing
Status
Registered
Status date
27 October 2006
Date version published
26 January 2007
Planned review date
31 December 2011
Entry information
Open.
Accreditation
Evaluation of documentation and visit by NZQA and
industry.
Standard setting body (SSB)
Sport, Fitness and Recreation Industry Training
Organisation – Outdoor Recreation
Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP) reference
0102
This AMAP can be accessed at http://www.nzqa.govt.nz/framework/search/index.do.
Special notes
All activities must comply with any relevant environmental, legislative and/or regulatory
requirements set out in the New Zealand Environmental Care Code, Health and Safety in
Employment Act 1992, Injury Prevention, Rehabilitation, and Compensation Act 2001, and
their subsequent amendments. The New Zealand Environmental Care Code is available
from the Department of Conservation, Head Office, PO Box 10420, Wellington or from
http://www.doc.govt.nz.
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2016
447 version 8
Page 2 of 4
Elements and performance criteria
Element 1
Select and plan a multi-pitch climb.
Performance criteria
1.1
Contextual issues are considered when selecting a route.
1.2
Equipment is selected and its selection justified based on the contextual issues.
1.3
Suitable protection is racked so as to be accessible during the climb.
1.4
Contingency plans are determined.
1.5
Belay stations are identified and communicated to the climbing party members.
Element 2
Undertake a multi-pitch climb.
Performance criteria
2.1
Sound route finding is demonstrated.
2.2
Belay systems are established to meet the current demands of the situation.
2.3
Anchors are set up safely and efficiently.
2.4
Safety of party members is continuously maintained and monitored.
2.5
Efficient rope techniques are demonstrated.
Range
double, single.
Element 3
Demonstrate safe change-over techniques at belay stations.
Performance criteria
3.1
All climbing party members are always attached to an anchor or belay system.
3.2
Change-overs from one system to another are conducted in a safe and efficient
manner.
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2016
447 version 8
Page 3 of 4
Element 4
Apply climbing skills to a simulated rescue situation on a multi-pitch route.
Range
a rescue situation may include but is not limited to – person injured; person
frozen, wedged, or inverted on pitch; clothing or hair jam; stuck rope; obstacles;
equipment retrieval.
Performance criteria
4.1
Harnesses are improvised and used in a simulated rescue.
Range
4.2
A rescue strategy is described and implemented.
Range
4.3
sit, chest.
must include – assisted hoist, abseil with victim.
Techniques for ascending the rope are demonstrated efficiently.
Element 5
Abseil on a multi-pitch route.
Performance criteria
5.1
The chosen abseil line is safe.
5.2
Anchors are set up correctly and allow the rope to be retrieved at the end of
each abseil pitch.
5.3
Self and partner are protected during change-overs between abseil pitches.
Please note
Providers must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority, or an inter-institutional body
with delegated authority for quality assurance, before they can report credits from
assessment against unit standards or deliver courses of study leading to that assessment.
Industry Training Organisations must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority before
they can register credits from assessment against unit standards.
Accredited providers and Industry Training Organisations assessing against unit standards
must engage with the moderation system that applies to those standards.
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2016
447 version 8
Page 4 of 4
Accreditation requirements and an outline of the moderation system that applies to this
standard are outlined in the Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP). The
AMAP also includes useful information about special requirements for organisations
wishing to develop education and training programmes, such as minimum qualifications for
tutors and assessors, and special resource requirements.
Comments on this unit standard
Please contact the Sport, Fitness and Recreation Industry Training Organisation Limited
info@sfrito.org.nz if you wish to suggest changes to the content of this unit standard.
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2016