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Apply technical mountain craft techniques on multi-day expeditions on
glaciated terrain
Level
4
Credits
20
Purpose
People credited with this unit standard are able to: prepare for overnight
mountaineering expeditions; complete mountain climbs in glaciated terrain
with a climbing partner; demonstrate skills for travelling on glaciated terrain;
select, establish and live in overnight camps in a mountain environment;
demonstrate care and concern for other team members and the environment;
and respond to a simulated emergency situation.
Subfield
Outdoor Recreation
Domain
Mountain Craft
Status
Registered
Status date
29 October 2004
Date version published
26 January 2007
Planned review date
31 October 2008
Entry information
Prerequisites: Unit 432, Navigate in poor visibility on
land, Unit 18135, Assist on an avalanche response, Unit
18136, Demonstrate own party rescue, Unit 20140,
Demonstrate technical mountain craft skills, or
demonstrate equivalent knowledge and skills.
Replacement information
This unit standard replaced unit standard 440 and unit
standard 441.
Accreditation
Evaluation of documentation and visit by NZQA and
industry.
Standard setting body (SSB)
Sport, Fitness and Recreation Industry Training
Organisation – Outdoor Recreation
Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP) reference
0102
This AMAP can be accessed at http://www.nzqa.govt.nz/framework/search/index.do.
Special notes
1
Poor visibility is when the horizon is not visible.
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2016
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2
For assessment purposes, at least three expeditions must be completed on snow,
ice, rock, and mixed terrain slopes up to a 60 degree angle including glaciated
terrain, with technical rock no greater than Ewbank Grade 12.
3
The Ewbank (Australian) grading system is an open ended numerical grading
system. With this system the grade increases with the corresponding increase in
climbing difficulty. Contact the New Zealand Alpine Club for more information: PO
Box 786, Christchurch, or http://www.alpineclub.org.nz.
4
All activities must comply with relevant environmental, legislative, and/or regulatory
requirements set out in the New Zealand Environmental Care Code, Health and Safety
in Employment Act 1992, Injury Prevention, Rehabilitation, and Compensation Act
2001, and their subsequent amendments. The New Zealand Environmental Care Code
is available from the Department of Conservation, Head Office, PO Box 10420,
Wellington, http://www.doc.govt.nz/.
5
NZMS 260 maps are topographical maps published by Land Information New
Zealand and available from map selling agencies throughout New Zealand.
6
There are minimum assessor requirements for assessment against this unit standard.
The details of these requirements are available on the Sfrito website
http://www.sfrito.org.nz/.
Elements and performance criteria
Element 1
Prepare for overnight mountaineering expeditions.
Performance criteria
1.1
Routes are selected using sources of information on the area, and their
selection is justified depending on the skill and experience of the participants,
and current weather and environment conditions.
Range
may include – maps, aerial photographs, guidebooks, local
knowledge, commercial operators, Department of Conservation,
New Zealand Avalanche Information Exchange, weather
forecasts.
1.2
Clothing, personal equipment, footwear, and food and drink are selected and
their selection is justified depending on the mountain environment, and the
expedition conditions and duration.
1.3
Climbing equipment is selected and its selection is justified based on the
mountain environment and expedition conditions.
Range
may include – rope, harness, slings, iceaxe, ice hammer,
crampons, karabiners, snow and ice anchors, Prussiks, helmet,
rock protection, belay device, transceiver, shovel, probe.
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1.4
Risks are identified and management strategies developed to determine the
safety and emergency equipment to be carried.
Element 2
Complete mountain climbs in glaciated terrain with a climbing partner.
Performance criteria
2.1
Navigation and planning skills are demonstrated in a mountain environment
using map, compass, and altimeter.
Range
good and poor visibility.
2.2
Routes are chosen (and modified if required) taking into account terrain and
environmental factors.
2.3
Mountain movement is applied appropriate to the climb and descent.
2.4
Systems to protect against a slip or fall of a climbing partner or self, on the climb
and descent, are demonstrated.
Range
belay stances and methods, anchors, protection, rope systems,
abseil methods.
Element 3
Demonstrate skills for travelling on glaciated terrain.
Performance criteria
3.1
A safe and efficient route through the glaciated terrain is selected taking into
account the conditions.
3.2
Rope handling skills are demonstrated.
Range
3.3
tying on, coiling, travelling roped with a partner, chest harness.
Crevasse rescue skills are demonstrated.
Range
self and own party rescue;
skills include – Prussiking, assisted hoists, unassisted hoists,
escaping from a system, anchor placement.
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Element 4
Select, establish and live in overnight camps in a mountain environment.
Range
must include – hut; and one of snow shelter, rock shelter, bivvy, tent.
Performance criteria
4.1
Advantages and disadvantages of a variety of shelters are identified.
Range
4.2
rock bivvy, fly, bivvy bag, tent, hut.
Hazards are minimised or eliminated by campsite selection.
Range
selection criteria may include but are not limited to – weather,
environment, equipment, comfort and safety.
4.3
Camp is established.
4.4
Safe and hygienic camp practices are demonstrated.
Range
4.5
may include but is not limited to – waste, water, food, ablution.
Cooking and camp management hazards are identified and managed.
Range
may include but is not limited to – stove use in confined spaces,
contaminated water sources, personal hygiene.
Element 5
Demonstrate care and concern for other team members and the environment.
Performance criteria
5.1
Personal safety is maintained at all times and safety for team members is not
compromised.
5.2
Communication with team leaders and other members is understood, clear, and
concise.
Range
must include but is not limited to – lines of communication.
5.3
Respect for other team members and their property is shown at all times.
5.4
Care for the environment is described and demonstrated based on the
New Zealand Environmental Care Code.
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Element 6
Respond to a simulated emergency situation.
Performance criteria
6.1
Standard operating procedures used in the event of an emergency situation are
described.
6.2
In a simulated emergency situation, responses are demonstrated that safeguard
self and team members from injury, and equipment from damage.
Range
may include but is not limited to – safe shelter, first aid, group
management, communication devices.
Please note
Providers must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority, or an inter-institutional body
with delegated authority for quality assurance, before they can report credits from
assessment against unit standards or deliver courses of study leading to that assessment.
Industry Training Organisations must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority before
they can register credits from assessment against unit standards.
Accredited providers and Industry Training Organisations assessing against unit standards
must engage with the moderation system that applies to those standards.
Accreditation requirements and an outline of the moderation system that applies to this
standard are outlined in the Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP). The
AMAP also includes useful information about special requirements for organisations
wishing to develop education and training programmes, such as minimum qualifications for
tutors and assessors, and special resource requirements.
Comments on this unit standard
Please contact the Sport, Fitness and Recreation Industry Training Organisation
info@sfrito.org.nz if you wish to suggest changes to the content of this unit standard.
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2016