California Avocado Society 1957 Yearbook 41: 58-63
SOUTH OF PANAMA
H. W. Montgomery
Member of the board of directors of the California Avocado Society.
Sometime during the latter part of May, 1956, a very pleasant trip was just beginning—a
tour which lasted two and one-half months, leading us through seven of the South
American Countries.
The climate of South America is extremely diversified, though it is generally speaking,
more equable than the climate of North America. The winter months were selected for
our trip because of the lack of rain during this period, for many of the hinterlands are
inaccessible in the wet months due to very poor road conditions.
Our journey began when I joined Doctor George Zentmyer in Key Cali, a small town on
an elevated plateau, half-hidden amongst the towering mountains of Colombia, but in
itself, a tableland site 3,150 feet above sea level. Cali has a brisk trade in grain and fruit
and transportation connects it with Buena Ventura on Choca Bay. The climate varies
materially in different sections of Colombia, but the tablelands are very pleasant. Due to
limitations and our eagerness to travel on, we ventured forth to Quito, Ecuador, to
spend nine very enlightening days.
Though Quito, the capital and largest city of Ecuador, is considered one of complete
beauty (due to the temperate climate and location in a picturesque valley), still it is one
of the most backward cities of all South America, with nearly 90% illiteracy in the rural
southern districts. The most amazing sight to me was the tropical growth at elevations
ranging up to 9,350 feet. The atmosphere is almost constantly clear and bracing. Coffee
is grown at 8,000 feet, the highest in the world. Many small avocado plantings were
checked in the suburbs of Quito, most of the fruit found there was small and purple in
color. There was a lack of Anise odor in the leaves. These avocado seeds were
probably brought in many years ago by the Spanish Conquistadors.
Our travel continued on through the beautiful Eborra Valley, about one hundred miles
north of Quito. Traveling over the Pan-American highway one may witness the finest
semi-tropical agricultural districts to be observed in Ecuador.
The Eborra Experiment Station is located in this valley of enchantment and many of our
California varieties of avocados are doing extremely well at 5,000 feet elevation, such
as the Fuerte, Nabal and the Itzamna. The only short crop years are those following
heavy hail storms during the blooming period. Very high prices in the city markets are
paid for this tasty nourishing fruit, though few are grown commercially due to the lack of
interest by the ranchers.
Other ranches were checked surrounding Eborra. Here the trees were found to actually
grow up to ninety feet in height, with only a small quantity of green and purple fruit.
These also were Mexican in their characteristics, but without the Anise odor. Yet here
Naval oranges seem to bear fruit twelve months of the year. In this valley one will find
the English walnut and pecan. Citrus, papayas, avocados and one of the finest flavored
fruits I have ever tasted, called Norenhilia. For export Coca, pyrethrum, bamboo, coffee,
oil, rubber, hardwoods and sheep have great possibilities.
We left the negro villages to travel on making our next headquarters in Lima, a unique
and charming city. We spent eighteen full and exciting days in and about this territory.
South America can well boast of the splendor of Lima, though the sky is overcast day
and night, three months, during this of the year. All aircraft drop through and come out
of a 700 foot ceiling of clouds several miles over the ocean.
Boarding our plane, we took off over the Andes, flying at 19,000 feet, sucking oxygen
through a tube and arriving at Cuzco. Cuzco, itself, is 11,250 feet in elevation and at
one time was the capital of all the oldest Inca cities in South America. Many of the Inca
walls still stand and are used in the present buildings of this city. The Inca Indians are a
sad lot at this time. At one time, the Incas were highly developed in agriculture and fruit
raising. They maintained considerable commerce, manufactured clothing and
implements; promoted mining and had a substantial architecture. After the Spanish
conquest religion was brought to the Incas and the Spaniards took everything else
away. There are over fifty ruins of Indian cities within forty miles of Cuzco. The Temple
of Machupijchu, sixty miles away, is reached by gas-buggy which is drawn on tracks.
This railroad has many switch-backs and is extremely scenic. We were very fortunate in
the day selected for our trip to the Temple, the climate was clear and beautiful. The
Temple itself, is built on a steep mountain, with approximately a 1,200 foot drop on
three sides into the river. The slopes for miles around were all terraced for agriculture
and water is imported from the higher mountains, miles away. These terraces are
approximately six feet in width, having a drop of about the same distance between each
terrace. Several selections of wild avocados were found along these terraces and were
no doubt eaten by the Indians. It is claimed that the Irish potato was discovered in this
region by the Spaniards.
Another trip over the Andes by car lead us into Chincima Valley. Carlos Bohl, our host
on this trip, is in charge of forty-two agricultural stations in widely separated locations in
Peru. This district produces most of the coffee and semi-tropical fruits grown in this
country. The road leads through the great copper mining district and goes three
hundred fifty miles from the ocean at sea-level to 15,700 feet in elevation, down again
into the head-waters of the Amazon River with an elevation in the town of San Ramon
of 2,500 feet. All of the produce is trucked out of the valley over some of the worst roads
this writer has ever experienced. You can imagine the condition of some of the fruit
when it finally reaches its destination in Lima, after being brought out of the hills on
burros and the backs of men, then carried from ten to fourteen hours over rough roads.
This is the fringe of the jungle. Most of the land is leased to farmers by large landholders who make their homes in Lima and seldom see their holdings. The most
progressive agriculturalists are Italians and Germans.
A good many avocados were found growing wild here in the jungle. Most of the avocado
groves were infected with root-rot and the varieties were of the West Indian type, and of
course not suitable for our needs in California.
Carlos Fowles, head of the Agricultural Station here, is doing a fine job advising
ranchers and improving their practice in farming.
The Andes were crossed seven times in all, and I was impressed each time by the
terracing for agricultural crops up to the snow line. These terraces were established by
the Incas and are still in use. They are well engineered and irrigated. The next flight
took us to Santiago, Chile, where we were met by the Homer Chapmans of Riverside,
who were stationed here for a year. Chile is well named for this time of the year. The
climate is supposed to be much the same as Southern California, but we found the days
to be much cooler.
The people in general were some of the finest we met in South America. They were
progressive and freedom-loving; there were over forty different political parties, and
there is apparently small chance of future dictatorship.
The district north of Santiago reminds one of the Ventura, Santa Barbara area. The
crops are comparable including some plantings of Southern California avocado
varieties. The production of Fuerte is excellent, and Cherimoyas are grown
commercially in the La Cruz-Quillota district. Here again, root-rot was found over much
of the area irrigated by the Mapocho River.
Inflation has raised the price of farm land to $1,000.00 per acre, and the people are
satisfied with 3% on their investment to protect their money against any future inflation.
South of Santiago there is a great and wondrous valley, comparable to the San Joaquin
in California, except the rivers run across the valley and not along its length. Many of
the crops found here are the same including grapes, nuts, citrus, cotton, etc. Some
avocados are grown here also. Most of the trees observed were seedlings, both green
and purple, with the Mexican type appearance. Some interesting types of citrus were
also observed, especially a Chilian seedling harvested in and during the same season
as our valencias. The fruit of this Chilian seedling is equal in size to, or larger than the
Navels grown in Chile, and the quality is good. The handling of most of the fruit is rather
primative, lemons washed by hand for export, etc.
The climate ranges from the tropical in the north to the cold region in the south. Much of
the coast has a climate similar to California, with average temperatures in low altitudes
at 65° in the north and 40° and less in the south. Rainfall is most abundant in the
southern third of Chile, where it reaches about 200 inches a year in places, and
decreases toward the north where the coast has less than eight inches and parts of the
interior are practically rainless.
This Central section has had two very cold winters, and many indications of frost injury
were observed. The nights dropped to 28° several times while we were in Chile. No
frost protection is used except in a very few groves.
There seemed to be more middle-class farmers in Chile than in most South American
countries. These people seem to be very happy. The German-Italian farmers are
especially interested in more modern methods of farming. They are very eager for any
type of information that might improve their present methods.
Chile, I believe, is the most progressive country on the west coast of South America,
due to a more stabilized government and without dictatorship, nor complete control by
the wealthier class of people. Most of the land is held in large estates by the wealthy
classes and about half of the people of Chile are engaged in agricultural pursuits.
Once again, we were on our way. This time our flight took two and one-half hours, high
above the Andes to Buenos Aires. This sight is one never to be forgotten. While on our
flight we passed very close to the volcanic peak of Aconcagua, the highest mountain in
South America, over 23,910 feet. This same trip by car or train will take at least two
whole days. The very modern airport is twenty-five miles out of the city with a good
freeway connecting it with Buenos Aires.
Many indications of the overthrow of Peron are still in evidence in and around Buenos
Aires. Bullet holes in the palace, bomb repairs, etc. Most of the people contacted talked
of the greatness of the country "before Peron." Now all streets, terminals and cities
named for Peron and Eva, have been changed. Buenos Aires is an important city of
South America, and has one of the most important trade centers south of the Equator. It
enjoys a large ocean commerce. The city itself has a European atmosphere—quite
delightful!
Most of the avocados and citrus are grown in the Northwestern part of Argentina. The
avocados do not arrive in the best of condition as they must be shipped by rail through
very hot weather for three days without refrigeration. Some fruit is grown on the Delta
between Uruguay and Parana Rivers.
The people live almost entirely on meat and use very little fruit and vegetables. The
price of fresh fruit is high. The avocados found here are of the West Indian type. There
are over one million acres of poplar trees on the Delta planted for pulp. These trees are
planted two feet by four feet and are harvested in about seven years after planting.
Paper is very scarce here in South America: One seldom sees shopping bags or paper
boxes and, this is one consolation, you don't see paper littered all over the countryside
as we do in California.
Buenos Aires is a great country for the future—the population is around eighteen
million, and can support three hundred million with ease. At present the practice is to
use the virgin land as long as it is productive, then move on to new lands. Practically all
of the pampas land could be irrigated for there is plenty of water.
Our next flight took us to Montevideo, Uruguay, a forty-five minute hop. Uruguay is the
smallest country of South America, yet apparently is the most stabilized of all the
countries we had the pleasure of visiting. Their money exchange is stable, and the
general appearance of the country shows prosperity. Montevideo is on a small
peninsula. It has a fine climate due to a well sheltered harbor, and, as a whole, the city
is one of the best built and most modern in all South America. The export and import
trade is very important since its location is at the most convenient point for river
navigation on the Uruguay and Parana Rivers.
We spent some time visiting the fruit and vegetable growing areas, less than fifty miles
from Montevideo. The roads were good, and most of the ranches were well kept. Citrus,
grapes and deciduous fruits are grown, and trucked into the markets in the city. No
avocados are grown commercially. Why, I don't know, as the climatic conditions appear
favorable. Uruguay has a mild and healthful climate even though it has an abundance of
rain. The thermometer seldom falls below 33° F. and along the shores rarely rises
above 85°. The only avocados on the markets are imported from Brazil, and retailed for
approximately one dollar per fruit!
I had the pleasure of meeting over three hundred Americans living in Uruguay, at the
United States Ambassador's Fourth of July party. I might state at this point that the
United States Embassies—of all countries visited—gave us a great deal of information
and were very courteous in all respects.
We continued on to Sao Paulo, Brazil. It is situated on a plain near the source of the Rio
Tiete, a tributary of the Rio Paranahiba. This country is noted for its fertility, (coffee
production) and has fine forests and deposits of precious metals and gems. Sao Paulo
is the fastest growing city in the world, and now the largest in South America. It boasts
of new buildings and apartments all over the place—this construction of buildings has
not stopped in the last twenty-five years. Most of the buildings are of cement or brick
construction, with practically no steel reinforcements. They run up to thirty-four floors in
height, and all are very modern in appearance. Oddly enough, they are without heat and
fire-escapes!
Sao Paulo has by far the greatest amount of industries in South America due to cheap
electrical energy. Huge lakes have been formed around the city by building low dams.
The water pumped about one hundred feet, and drops directly into the Atlantic, 2,300
feet below.
There is very little poverty in this city due to a minimum wage of fifty dollars per month.
This does not hold true, however, in the farming areas where eighty cents per day is still
the prevailing wage.
The Port of Santos, thirty-eight miles and 2,300 feet below Sao Paulo, ships more
tonnage than any other port in South America. The cities are connected by an excellent
two-way road system. The roads wind around and under each other, then pass through
many tunnels on this thirty-eight-mile grade. This harbor takes care of most of the coffee
export plus many other industrial and mineral produced in this region. It is said that forty
per-cent of Brazil's business is handled through Sao Paulo.
A very interesting trip was made into the Campinos, Piracicabs and Lemira districts.
This was the great citrus district of Brazil before "Quick Decline" destroyed all but the
ten per cent of the oranges which were on sweet-root stock. There are large new
plantings on sweet-root stock, many are just coming into bearing. The groves with
production at present are paying off handsomely, with scarcely enough fruit for home
consumption.
We stopped at the Citrus Experiment Station in this district which proved to be quite
interesting. There are over two hundred and twenty different varieties of citrus in
production. This is just one of fifteen agricultural stations financed by the State of Sao
Paulo. Their interest is great in the future of agriculture. Farming has developed most
extensively in the southeastern part. Here in the State of Sao Paulo other products
grown include potatoes, beans, yams, vegetables and Paraguay Tea. California
avocado varieties do not do well on the east coast, the scab will injure both fruit and
foliage, and production is not heavy. Guatemalan type seedlings have been selected
that are almost immune to the scab disease, and are good producers. The Brazilians
like a sweet fruit; in fact, the avocado is used as a dessert with sugar, hence, the
Guatemalan-West-Indian cross is the favorite avocado. There is a good deal of new
avocado planting in this area. The Dierberger Nursery and grove alone, has 5,000 acres
including 2,000 acres of fruit trees and over 200,000 avocado seedlings to tip graft in
1956.
The Ranches or "Fazendas" as they are called here, are large and diversified. Brazil
has vast and largely unexploited wealth, yet Brazil has not taken a foremost position
among the nations in the output of its manufacturing and farming enterprises, chiefly, for
the reason that it is not densely populated, and consequently lacks a large supply of
skilled labor and cheap capital. However, the vast natural resources and a determined
government policy in this direction have in the past generation brought about
considerable advances. Food processing has become the largest industry. For instance,
one 5,000 acre Japanese Frazenda included in their crops, avocado, citrus, coffee,
cattle, cotton, deciduous fruit, walnuts and many row crops. Frost was unknown until
1955. The area before this freeze was heavily planted to unshaded coffee which was
destroyed by the frost. It is now heavily planted to sugar cane.
Real Estate values are very high. Farm land prices run about $1,200 per acre due to
inflation. Values have increased 1,000 percent in the past five years. Large parcels of
land are not farmed but are held for speculation purposes.
The agriculture and mining district of Bela Horizonte (two hours by air, north of Rio) was
checked where some wild avocados were found. This city of one-half million people is
only fifty-eight years old, and I believe we met all the twenty American families in the
two days we spent in this district and Oro Prade.
The flight from Rio to Caracas over the great Amazon Basin takes eleven hours —a
super de-luxe flight—made at night. It's surprising how much one can see, however,
with a full moon. The Caracas elevation is 2,400 feet. The city is not the only thing
high—most of the food is imported, and is terrific in price—a hamburger at eighty cents
is accepted. This is the Country of Americans—Venezuela. Over 30,000 of our
countrymen work and live in this land of oil production. Most everything including food is
imported. It is not out of the way to find canned meat on the menu in the better
restaurants of Caracas at $4.00 to $5.00 per dinner. The farming area is limited due to
the very steep slopes and the lack of roads south of the mountains. The rain-forest is
well worth seeing—it's about one hundred miles west of Caracas. Many rare species of
birds and plants are to be found here. Some wild avocados were also checked in this
area. The commercial plantings of avocados are scarce and the fruit is very high on the
market.
The Point-4 Program is doing a wonderful job in all sections of South America. The
money we are spending on technical aid is not wasteful. The people, generally
speaking, appreciate this assistance, and are friendly toward the Americans. We were
very fortunate having the privilege of being invited into the private homes in most of the
countries, and having the transportation and guidance furnished without cost.
Some sixty varieties of wild and domestic avocados were collected on this trip. I was
looking particularly, for the much needed new commercial variety; but this was not
found. I only hope that a good root-stock, resistant to Phytophthora root-rot will be found
in the collection brought home.