Fashion Design Modern Fashion: 1900 - Present Arts, AV and Technology Communication Lesson Plan Performance Objective • Upon completion of this lesson, the student will be able to identify the characteristics of modern fashions by decade. Specific Objective • Identify characteristics of fashions worn during each decade from 1900 to the present. • Identify the trends and influences during each decade • Identify key terms used to identify and describe fashions for each decade. • Identify notable designers of each decade. Terms Silhouette Haute couture Victorian era Edwardian era Flapper era prêt-à-por·ter branding Time When taught as written, this lesson should take approximately three 90-minute class periods to teach. Preparation TEKS Correlations: 130.93(C) (1) The student applies academic knowledge and skills in fashion, textile, and apparel projects. The student is expected to: (A) apply English language arts knowledge and skills by demonstrating use of content, technical concepts, and vocabulary; using correct grammar, punctuation, and terminology to write and edit documents; and composing and editing copy for a variety of written documents such as patterns, brochures, advertisements, and press releases. (2) The student applies professional communications strategies. The student is expected to: (B) organize oral and written information; (C) interpret and communicate information, data, and observations; and (E) apply active listening skills. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 1 (3) The student understands and examines problem-solving methods. The student is expected to employ critical-thinking and interpersonal skills independently and in teams to solve problems. (4) The student applies information technology applications. The student is expected to use personal information management, email, Internet, writing and publishing, presentation, and spreadsheet or database applications for fashion, textiles, and apparel projects. (9) The student applies technical skills for efficiency. The student is expected to employ planning and timemanagement skills to complete work tasks. (10) The student develops an understanding of fashion and the textile and apparel industries. The student is expected to: (A) analyze the nature and scope of fashion by: (i) explaining the importance of fashion; (ii) demonstrating knowledge of fashion history relative to current fashions; and (vi) using appropriate terminology. Interdisciplinary Correlations: English-English I • 110.31(b)(1). Reading/Vocabulary Development. Students understand new vocabulary and use it when reading and writing. • 110.3(b)(11). Reading/Comprehension of informational text/procedural texts. Students understand how to glean and use information in procedural texts and documents. • 110.53(b)(2)(B) employ precise language and technical vocabulary to communicate ideas clearly and concisely Occupational Correlation (O*Net – www.onetonline.org/): Job Title: Fashion Designer O*Net Number: 27-1022.00 Reported Job Titles: Apparel Fashion Designer, Clothing Designer, Costume Designer, Product Developer Tasks: Direct and coordinate workers involved in drawing and cutting patterns and constructing samples or finished garments. Examine sample garments on and off models, modifying designs to achieve desired effects. Sketch rough and detailed drawings of apparel or accessories, and write specifications such as color schemes, construction, material types, and accessory requirements. Confer with sales and management executives or with clients to discuss design ideas. Identify target markets for designs, looking at factors such as age, gender, and socioeconomic status. Provide sample garments to agents and sales representatives, and arrange for showings of sample garments at sales meetings or fashion shows. Soft Skills: Critical Thinking, Judgment and Decision Making, Reading Comprehension Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 2 Accommodations for Learning Differences It is important that lessons accommodate the needs of every learner. These lessons may be modified to accommodate your students with learning differences by referring to the files found on the Special Populations page of this website. Preparation • Review and familiarize yourself with the terminology, fashion trends, notable designers, and potential website links related to fashions from 1900 – present day. • Download photographs and illustrations that exemplify fashions from each decade. • Have materials and websites ready to go prior to the start of the lesson. • Review historical information from slide presentation. References Kennedy, A., Steohrer, E. B., & Calderin, J. (2013). Fashion design, referenced: A visual guide to the history, language, and practice of fashion. Beverly, MA: Rockport Publishers. Instructional Aids • Lesson: Modern Fashion: 1900 – Present • Modern Fashion Slide Presentation • History of Modern Fashion Grading Rubric • Instructor Computer/Projection Unit • Textbook or online fashion history resources • Poster paper for displays (enough for each group) • Markers and other writing/printing materials • Scissors, glue, and tape for display boards Introduction ASK: How does what you wear define the look of the current decade? Give students a few minutes to think about the question. Then ask the following questions, pausing between each one to give students a chance to process each question: • Does what you wear relate to what your friends wear? • Are you following specific trends? • Where do those trends come from? SAY: Throughout history fashion has been defined by cycles and time periods. We most often break those cycles into decades and explain the changes based on cultural influences. Fashion today is unlike any other time in history. Due to advances in technology, manufacturing, and social networking, fashion is changing at an unprecedented speed. This fast changing environment leads to multiple trends culminating in one decade, making it harder to define a societal style. Let’s look at how fashion has changed over the 20th and 21st centuries and see how those cycles have influenced how we dress today. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 3 Outline MI Outline Go through the slide presentation with students. Discuss the following: I. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1900-1909. A. The early 1900s saw the Victorian era come to a close. With this came changes in silhouette. 1. The skirt was slim at the hip. 2. Skirt fullness was confined below the knee. 3. Decoration: tucks, hem ruffles, buttons, and lace insertions. 4. Day: High necklines with undefined bosom called the monobosom, bodice below the waist, cape type collars dropping off the shoulders, fitted sleeves from shoulder to elbow with fullness extending to wrist. 5. Evening: dresses were more daring, worn off the shoulder, with or without sleeves. B. Mid-decade saw the beginning of the Edwardian era. 1. The Edwardian era began with a retro vibe featuring: small balloon sleeves and very nippedin waists. Full skirts were rounded and fabrics draped. 2. Paul Poiret’s designs quickly replaced the retro look. • Slim, straight skirts • Fewer undergarments • Loosening of the corset • High waisted – empire line was popular • Lots of details and superb construction Instructor Notes Use the slide presentation to go through the characteristics of modern fashion for each decade from 1900 to the present. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 4 MI Outline Gowns featured: lace, cord, appliqué, soutache, beading, tucking, and insertion – often in the same gown. C. Haute couture is French for finest dress making. Haute couture houses are where the finest clothe are made. Some of the haute couture houses of the era: 7. Poiret 8. Worth 9. Doucet 10. Lanvin 11. Paquin 12. Fortuny II. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1910-1919. A. The Edwardians became more playful and innovative featuring such styles as: 1. The hobble skirt. 2. The lampshade skirt. 3. Asymmetrical draping. 4. Boning was used less and only for supporting the shape as opposed to changing the shape. 5. Suits were fashionable for daywear. 6. Walking was eased as the skirt hem rose to the ankle. B. World War I brought about more changes: 1. Skirts rose well above the ankle. 2. Bodices leaned toward the higher waist. 3. Skirts were full and tiered. 4. Bat wing sleeves, over-drapes and flying panel skirts were popular. C. Post war years saw the introduction of Art Deco inspired prints. Instructor Notes • Discuss possible influences on the changes in fashion, from decade to decade. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 5 MI Outline D. Automobile rose to status bringing about new garments to protect passengers from dust: 1. The duster, a long, lightweight coat, was worn to protect clothing. 2. Hats with veils were worn to keep the complexion smudge free. III. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1920-1929. A. The post-war years brought a sense of euphoria to life and fashion. 1. Waistlines dropped to the high hip levels. 2. Dresses became unfitted. 3. Bodices were simplified using only a few tucks or shirring at the shoulders. 4. Hemlines were perched above the ankle but would soon rise to shocking new heights. 5. Necklines were simplified to a scoop or “v” unless a collar was present. 6. Sleeves were long and straight or featured a bell shape. 7. Dresses were straight and simple in construction with detail in surface ornamentation: embroidery, soft braid, and beading. 8. Sheer or semi-sheer dresses were worn over matching slips. B. The Flapper era became established: 1. By 1926 the hemline had scandalously reached the knee. 2. The dropwaist remained popular but skirts and bodices became more complex featuring Instructor Notes How did changes in society affect changes in fashion? Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 6 MI Outline Instructor Notes seaming, flounces, floating panels, and overlays. 3. Quality was now viewed through fabric manipulation and surface design rather than by complex construction and fit. 4. By 1928/1929 fashion collections had tamed the indecent hemline and replaced it with the asymmetric hemline (knee length in front, longer in back). 5. Waistlines rose to resume the natural position at the waist. IV. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1930-1939. A. Great innovations were seen during the Depression, despite hardship. 1. Waistlines returned to the natural waist. 2. Fits remained somewhat relaxed. 3. The bias cut gown created by Madeleine Vionnet became the standard for evening. 4. Zippers replaced hook and eye closures and became design elements in the hands of Elsa Schiaparelli who popularized their use. 5. Chanel popularized costume jewelry with faux pearl strands. 6. By 1938 small shoulder pads had become fashionable. B. Popular Haute Couture houses: 1. Lanvin 2. Molyneux 3. Mainbocher 4. Patou 5. Vionnet 6. Chanel 7. Schiaparelli Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 7 MI Outline C. Hollywood style made its way to the mainstream with movie designers such as Adrian Greenberg to create their own lines. V. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1940-1949. A. As the United States emerged from the Depression much of Europe was already at war. The Nazi occupation of Paris was disaster for Haute Couture but it brought opportunity for American designers. 1. Norman Norell and Claire McCardell established themselves and built an American clientele. 2. Mainbocher and Molyneux fled Europe and began working in the United States. 3. Wartime regulations restricted how much fabric and what types of garments could be manufactured. 4. Utility and practicality became fashionable while frivolity and extravagance were put on hold establishing the wideshouldered, slim-waisted, narrow-hipped silhouette 5. Social changes such as women in the workplace brought about the popularity of slacks (this point was greatly debated into the 1960s) 6. Dior’s “New Look” hit the runway in 1947 and called for rounded shoulders, exaggerated bust lines, wasp waists, padded hips, and long, extravagantly full skirts. Instructor Notes Discuss the Hollywood influence on fashion. In what ways did World War II affect fashion in the United States and Europe? Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 8 MI Outline Instructor Notes 7. The New Look, although loved by fashion writers, was initially met with resistance from the public who viewed it as frivolous after years of rationing. The New Look soon became a symbol of the return to prosperity, femininity, and glamour. 8. The New Look helped restore the French couture industry and offered a glimpse into the next decade. VI. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1950-1959. A. The 1950s placed emphasis on the hourglass silhouette. 1. This silhouette could be seen in both full skirts and the slender pencil skirt which was also popular. 2. The hourglass silhouette created a need for foundation garments: • Bullet bras • Corselets • Waist-cinchers • Girdles • Crinolines 3. The birth of prêt-a-porter (ready-to-wear) brought quality off-the-rack garments, once restricted to the wealthy, to the general population. 4. Full skirts were popular on daytime dresses which were worn form performing household duties and running errands. 5. Cocktail dresses were essential for social gatherings. 6. Gloves and hats were expected when a woman left the house. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 9 MI Outline 7. The latter fifties were popularized by Balenciaga’s sack dress and Yves Saint Laurent’s trapeze dress. VII. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1960-1969. A. The 1960s were a decade of great fashion transition. 1. The decade began with the fullskirt silhouette of the 1950s and ended with a silhouette that was quite opposite. 2. Jackie Kennedy popularized the short-jacketed sheath suits of Oleg Cassini. 3. Teenagers dominated the fashion scene led by “It Girl” Twiggy, and their parents later followed suit. 4. Colorful shift dresses and psychedelic prints were popular. 5. Emilio Pucci created colorful prints making simple dresses walking works of art. 6. Babydoll and trapeze silhouettes were staples. 7. Mary Quant introduced the mini-skirt. 8. By 1967 the new fashions were baring more of the body than ever before with even the most conservative styles cut above the knee. VIII. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1970-1979. A. The 1970s picked up where the 1960s left off with the body-baring mini-skirt still popular. B. New trends were quickly added including the bell-bottom pant with its very fitted top and wide-flared Instructor Notes Discuss differences between ladies’ and teens’ fashion during this era. This was the first decade where there was a dramatic contrast between what mothers and daughters wore. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 10 MI Outline leg openings (the mid-70s saw the hip hugger waistlines while the late70s saw high waistlines). C. Midi and maxi skirts joined the ranks of the mini in popularity offering three different skirt lengths. D. Short, tight-fitting shorts called hot pants became the craze. E. Women were now freely wearing pants without social criticism. F. Polyester was popularized in many styles most notably the “leisure suit”. G. Platform shoes were popular for men and women. H. Diane von Fürstenburg introduced the wrap dress for women. IX. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1980-1989. A. The 80s offered a wide variety of styles and inspiration encompassing all subcultures from music to athletics to movies. B. Shoulder pads rose to new heights and widths. C. The women’s power suit, complete with large shoulder pads, was popularized by popular TV shows. Musicians also popularized trends in fashion such as wearing only one glove, gloves with no fingers and parachute pants made of nylon that were copied by the youth of America. D. Movies popularized oversized sweatshirts with the collars cut off paired with leggings. E. Designer jeans were all the rage. F. Looks with leather, lace, and/or bright colors were popular. Instructor Notes Discuss the wide variety of clothing choices. Pants: Bell bottoms/Hot pants Skirt lengths: Midi/Maxi/Mini Do some characteristics, trends, or styles recycle? Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 11 MI Outline X. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 1990-1999. A. The early 90s saw a continuation of 80s fashion. B. Dark denim became the preferred style of denim and was often seen in matching jeans and jacket combos. C. Baby doll dresses, tartan skirts, headscarves, trench coats, penny loafers were all commonly seen. D. The mid 1990s saw a revival of 1960s fashion. E. It also became fashionable to wear designer clothing displaying Italian or French labels. F. The 1990s also saw a movement of fashion rejection that continued into the 2000s. G. Tattoos, body piercing, and branding became popular in the 90s. XI. Identify characteristics of fashions worn from 2000-present. A. This is the predominant fashion period of the student’s lifetime. Have a class discussion and let students help define the look of their time and generation using appropriate terminology. B. Make a list of popular styles, silhouettes, and influences. C. Note important designers of the time period. D. Discuss how styles can and do change much faster now than any time in history. E. Describe how current trends have been influenced by past styles. Instructor Notes Note: Finding the descriptive terminology necessary to describe period clothing is difficult for students. Be patient and guide them through the discussion but make sure they come up with the answers. ASK: Is there only one popular look in this decade that defines the style of this time period as in past decades? Notice how the styles change more rapidly during this time period than any other time in history. Discuss what might influence these changes. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 12 Multiple Intelligences Guide Existenti alist Interpers onal Intrapers onal Kinesthe tic/ Bodily Logical/ Mathema tical Musical/Rhyt hmic Natura list Verbal/Ling uistic Visual/Sp atial Application Guided Practice The teacher will go over the slide presentation with the class. When you get to the slide with 2000 – present, open a class discussion. Have students help define the styles, silhouettes, trends, and influences of the present time period. Fill in keywords on the slide as students give examples. Make note of popular designers of the time and how they are influencing fashion today. Note: Many examples of current fashion trends are available online. Check out various fashion websites ahead of time and make sure they are suitable and appropriate for students to explore. Independent Practice Break students up into small groups of 2-3, depending on class size. There should be 11 groups, one for each decade/time period discussed during this lesson. Have each group create a poster that includes keywords, silhouettes, designers, and pictures from that time period. Have the groups share their posters with the class. The posters should be clean and creative as they will become part of a fashion history timeline that will be displayed in the classroom or hallway. Summary Review Review the time periods and major identifiers of each time period before students begin working on their section of the fashion history timeline. As the timeline, note how the styles of each time period change gradually culminating in extremes before reversing and heading in the opposite direction. Evaluation Informal Assessment Students will be informally assessed through the following methods : • Instructor Observation during Guided Practice and Independent Practice Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 13 • Question and Answer during the Review While students are working on posters, the instructor should move about the room to assess progress, offer suggestions, and to be available to answer questions. A class discussion can follow regarding how fashion has changed over time based on social and cultural influences. Formal Assessment • Students will present their poster projects to the class. • The class will assemble the fashion history timeline to display in the classroom or in the hallway. • An assessment of the students’ projects will be based on the attached rubric. Enrichment Extension • Students may wish to research particular fashion trends, designers who contributed to the styles of their generation, or other topics of interest related to fashion design. • Students will apply their knowledge of fashion history, silhouettes, and designers on future fashion design projects. Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 14 History of Modern Fashion Grading Rubric Criteria Completeness (10 pts) Basic (30 points) Understanding (20 pts) Creativity (30 points) Professional Appearance (10 pts) Comments: Exceptional Above Average Below Average Unacceptable 9-10 points 5-8 points 1-4 points 0 points Poster is complete and presents a unified whole Poster is complete but lacks unity or Gestalt. Poster is incomplete. No attempt was made to produce the poster. 27-30 points 15-26 points 1-14 points 0 points All required characteristics from the decade are represented in the poster Most of the characteristics from the decade are represented in the poster Only some of the characteristics from the decade are represented in the poster Characteristics from the decade are not represented 17-20 points 9 -16 points 1-8 points 0 points The student demonstrates a complete understanding of the fashion influences of the decade Student demonstrates some understanding of the fashion influences of the decade Student demonstrates very little understanding of concepts No demonstration of concepts 27-30 points 15-26 points 1-14 points 0 points Ideas are original in thought and exceptionally creative. Ideas are somewhat original and creative. Limited evidence of creativity and originality in thought. No evidence of creativity or originality in thought or execution of project. 9-10 points 5-8 points 1-4 points 0 points Excellent project; neat and professional in appearance. Good project. Very few corrections are needed Fair project. Several errors are evident. Project is unprofessional and errors distract significantly. TOTAL POINTS: Copyright © Texas Education Agency, 2014. All rights reserved. 15 Points