Lane County Historian \ The Lane County Historical Society Ethan Newman, President, 2161 University Street, Eugene, OR 97403 Alta Nelson, Membership Secretary, P0 Box 11532, Eugene, OR 97440 Lane County Historian, Vol. 40, Number 1, Spring 1995 Ken Metzler, Editor, 2051 East 26th Avenue, Eugene, OR 97403 (Phone 503/343-4496; e-mail: kmetz@oregon.uoregon.edu) Janet Burg and Dorothy Corkery, Assistant Editors Lois Barton, Contributing Editor Contents Footnotes to history 1 On foot from Eugene to the coast and back in 1897. . . . 6 Spanning a century with Ferry Street Bridges 14 Film flam: the story of a "legal" scam 22 The Masonic Cemetery 25 Rose Bowl mania: the spice of historical coincidence. 26 Keith Richard's trivia quiz answers 28 Cover Life on the WillametteRiver in Eugene in 1905. This rowboat even carries bicycles (on the bow end, not shown) for the classic in-style Eugene type ofouting. They're just upstream from the bridge that crosses the river, eventually known as the Ferry Street Bridge. This was the first bridge to bear that name, and two more would come later. More photos and comments on Ferry Street Bridges on page 14. Photo courtesy of Lane County Historical Museum. ISSN 0458-7227 Footnotes to history A collection of vignettes and curiosities about Lane County histoiy, such as:A pamphlet full of historical trivia, a quiz on trivia, also data on transportation and entertainment in 1940, and the results of a membership questionnaire. The day's news, 1868-1875 It sat on a library shelf at the University of Oregon, and it bore the title, "Old Times With Lane County Pioneers." An unpretentious document, it looked like a mini-magazine, typewritten, with a cover sketch ofthe Lane County Courthouse of 1855. The pamphlet showed no date, but clearly was a product of the 1930s Works Progress Administration. It contains a fascinating array of historical triviabrief accounts ofLane County's first churches and a mention of the great Willamette River flood of 1861 where, in the present town of Junction City, the water rose at the rate of afoot an hour. It even recalls the comment, in the Eugene City Guard, by a certain Mrs. Miller who urged the reading public not to misjudge her hus- band simply because he had deserted her. The errant husband was none other than Joaquin Miller, the highly proclaimed poet of the Sierras and erstwhile sensation of the London literary society. "Pioneers," the pamphlet asks, "do you remember when Spring 1995 1ettt1 ¶'rred Pc.i,rc. Smvey L. Director a ¶t-th "Paul Bunyan dumped a load of dirt from his wagon and made Spencer Butte? "Trent was called Rattlesnake? "Irving was called Yellow Dog? "Lancaster was called Woodyville? "The Oregonian, May 2, 1857, ran an editorial on education, pointing out the probability that Columbia would have to compete with another college in Eugene City?" Given that about 80 years had 1 elapsed between the date of that editorial and the probable date of the pamphietin thelate 1930s, itseemsunlikely that anyone would remember the editorial. The short-lived Columbia College, which inspired the name College Duniway fulfilled the editor's worst expectations.) 'Prisoners of the countyjail sawed out part of a wall, and on a March day in 1872 contrived a thrilling escape. An imposing list of advertisers ap- Hill in Eugene, was but a memory peared in the when the University of Oregon opened in 1876. The news briefs, culled from the pages of the Eugene City Guard, offer the most charming glimpses of early life. Samples: P. G. Lemley discovered the identity of the person who had stolen the year before two sets of wagon hubs. Mr. Lemley advertised in the Guard, March 29, 1869, that he would not prosecute if the thief would mail him $20 in greenbacks. City Guard, January 30, 1868, states it will exercise all of its influence to abate the nuisance of the Hurdy Gurdy about to be operated in the city. 'In the July31 [no year given] issue of the Guard, a brave pioneer advertised for a wife. He required that she should be able to milk cows, tend children, and play the piano. On March 27, 1869, the Guard was obliged to reprove a number of Eu- The Eugene Guard for January 7, 1879. Bristow & Co., drygoods, groceries, etc., since 1860. Friendly and Lauer, general mdse. L. Ackerman, clothing and dry goods. F. B. Dunn, hardware and agricultural instruments, also organs. Grey and Co., agents for Wells Fargo. Rosenblatt, general mdse. Goldsmith, general mdse. Osburn and Co., drugs. Ellsworth and Belshaw, drugs. Steinheiser, grocery. Coon Widmer, tobacco, candy, toys and post office. Ben Darns, hardware. Bragg and Sam Ashley, saddles. Drs. Harrhold and Rubell, den- tists. James F. Brown, stationery. Titus and Matlock, livery stables. Forbes and Co., photographers. Joseph and H. C. Perkins, fruit geneyouthsfortheirhabitofindulg- and ornamental trees. ing in fisticuffs and wrestling beWilliam Worth, blacksmithing. hind the Arcade Saloon. John Killingsworth, baker 'According to the Guard, February 3, Dr. Foley, physician. 1872, "A female woman by the name ofAngelina Jane Duniway lectured at the courthouse on Thursday and Friday evenings; we infer she is one of the strong minded, but whence she came, or whether she goes, we Mr. Dorris, attorney. The brochure devoted a page to Lane County churches, starting with the first church to be built in Eugene, Cumberland Presbyterian, 1857, offi- ciated over by pastor Gillespie, the know and care not." (A few days grandfather of Cal Young. In 1855 later the Guard asserts that Mrs. Presbyterians held services in the 2 Lane County Historian Keith Richard's trivia quiz How well do you know your local university? Continuing our traditional Historical Trivia Quiz, we turn this time to the University of Oregon and Keith Richard, who maintains the University's archives in Fenton Hall, once the home of the school's library. Please answer the following questions to the best of your ability. Answers appear on page 28. Autzen Stadium is the fourth football field at the U. of 0. Can you think of the other three and where they were located? Names? How many Rose Bowl teams played on those fields? What was the first institute established at the University? It has gained a national reputation, attracts students and researchers from across the LSCHOOL United States, and has become a much-appreciated part of its community. Two current United States senators, one a Republican and one a Democrat, attended the University of Oregon. Neither one represents the State of Oregon. Can you name them and the state they represent? The University's original observatory was located on land that the University owned on Skinner Butte. The observatory closed but the telescope moved onfour times in fact. Where? Where is it now? The School of Law started in Portland in 1884 and was moved to the Eugene campus in 1915. It occupied two other buildings prior to its move to the present Law Center. What were those buildings? Deady Hall, the oldest building on campus, was constructed on land purchased with private money, and the building itself was paid for by private funds. These were the first gifts to the State of Oregon by private individuals in support of higher education. Several other buildings have since been constructed through private donations. Among them are the Museum of Art, the Chiles Business Center, and the Bowerman Family Building. But four of the buildings on the campus were paid for by a mix of federal money and student building fees, and art work was mandated as part of the construction. (a) What are those four buildings? (b) When were they built? (c) What federal program paid for the construction? (d) What federal program paid for the art work? Spring 1995 3 schoothouse on Row River. The first in the near future. Methodist Church in Eugene was orA small spider on the ground before ganized in 1854 in the Zumwalt log you means good luck. cabin, one and one-half miles west of A portent of death occurs when you Eugene City. hear a gate open and shut, even though no one is there. Perils of early feminism Support for women's voting rights was strong enough in Lane County to bring about passage of the women's suffrage measure in 1900, some 12 years ahead of the statewide measure. Even so, the movement was not without local opposition. TheEugene City Guard called the For curly hair in a child, rub its head with goose oil after washing. If green toads jump back and forth across your path in the garden, you will receive money. (From a collection of folk beliefs gathered by Anne Hubbard, from the book, The Well-Traveled Casket: A feminists "she-roosters," "strong- Collection of Oregon Folklife, by Tom minded females," and "the vinegar- Nash and Twilo Scofield, 1992.) faced squad." One of these "she-roosters" was How's the society doing? Abigail Scott Duniway, a "spirited" The Lane County Historical Society is speaker who spoke frequently in Lane County. Sometimes, Duniwaymetwith more than name-calling when she came to town. On more than one occasion, an opponent locked Duniway out of a lecture hall where she had been invited to speak. (From An illustrated History of the Emerald Empire, by Dorothy Velasco, 1985.) Elmira-area superstitions and cures doing okay, according to its members. Last Fall the society sent questionnaires to its 500 members to ask their overall opinion of the society. Several additional questions focused on specific activities. At this writing 135 members (27%) have returned questionnaires, according to society treasurer Donald T. Smith, who tallied the responses. So what's your overall opinion of the For warts, steal your mother's dishrag society? Of the members answering that question, 82 per cent said they and bury it after rubbing it on your were "very well satisfied," and 18 per- warts. Leaves turned to their undersides means rain is on the way. If the winter sky is green, there will be cold weather. If someone gives you a knife as a present, you must give at least a penny in return or the knife will eventually cent "moderately satisfied." Nobody checked the "indifferent" or "dissatisfied" options. Should the society step up its level of activity? Most (85%) said the present level was okay; the remaining 15 percent suggested higher levels. What eras of local history are you most interested in learning about in If your coffee or tea has bubbles the Historian? Just about all eras, it cut you. around the top, you will receive money 4 turns out, with a slight preference for Lane County Historian the Oregon Trail-settlement era, 1843 to 1865. The percentages of respondents opting for various eras are: Before 1843 (9.9%), 1843 to 1865 (23.4%), 1865 to 1898 (18.1%), 18981918 (19.9%), 1918 to 1941 (18.1%), and after 1941 (10.5%). Matlock's cure Eugene's first "select" school, established before Eugene's incorporation, was a log house built on the Fielding McMurry donation land claim sometime around 1853. Opened by Miss willing to write articles on local history Sarah Ann Moore, its location was near the Masonic Cemetery at a place called "point of the hills." Mrs. E. A. Barette for the Historian, and those members can expect calls from the editor soon. recalls her mother's story about a "wildly exciting" day at the school. The And, for the record, it's not too late to excitement began in the middle of an arithmetic lesson, when a rattlesnake Thirteen persons said they'd be send in your questionnaire if you haven't done so already. Transportation and entertainment, 1940 crawled up from a space in the flooring and bit a young studentnamed Matlock. 'There was shrieking, and running, and much advice. The young Matlock In 1940, Eugene's airport at 18th and Chambers had no regularly scheduled services. There were two railroad sta- administered his own cure and the only one at handa pocket-knife, and strenuous sucking to get rid of the tions, the Southern Pacific on Wil- poison. He didn't die, but readin' and writin' and 'rithmetic did, and the pu- lamette Street and the Oregon Electric Station at Fifth & Oak. City bus fare was 7, or you could buy a four-ride card for 25t and save three. The Pacific Greyhound Line, Oregon MotorStages, Independent Motor Stages, The Dollar Line, and the Ben Franklin Line served passengers from three downtown locations. Taxi rides cost 24c and upwards based on distance and number of passengers. There were six hotels, numerous rooming houses, and several tour- pils scurried over the hills homeward." (From The Story of Eugene, by Lucia W. Moore, Nina W. McCornack, and Gladys W. McCready, 1949.) Fish tale As the story goes, the Seavey boys, Tom, Will, James, Jess, and John rowed out onto the McKenzie River one day in the 1890s and caught a few rainbow trout. Well, make that a few hundred. ist camps. KORE was the only radio Make that 500 "redsides" and not one station, but there were five motion of them less than 12 inches, "heads off." picture houses. LaurelwoodGolfCourse The Seavey's catch was taken to the and Oakway Golf Course were both top of Skinner's Butte and cooked on open for business, charging 25ct for metal sheet stoves placed over undernine holes. The Oregon Trail Pageant ground fire pits. The guests, a convenwas held every three years in July. tion of editors from across the country (Compiled by workers of the Writers' who arrived on a special train, were led Program of the Works Projects Ad- up the hillside and treated to one unministration, in Oregon: End of the forgettable fish fry. (From The Story of Trail, 1940.) Spring 1995 Eugene, 1949.) On foot from Eugene to the coast and back in 1897 It was spring break, and they were a trio of footloose college students seeking adventure. Destination, the lighthouse at Heceta Head (shown here as it appeared in 1890). They found friendly natives everywhere, even in Corvallis. By J. ft Barber Photos courtesy of Lane County Historical Museum "I'm on the way, I'm on the way O'er hills and vales to Yaquina Bay, With the clouds above and the mud below And the rain apouring wherever Igo." II through the year DeLashmutt, Whittlesey, and I had been planning to take some kind of a trip in the spring vacation. We were a little doubtful whether to go to mountains or seacoast until shortly before vacation began, when so much snow fell that we had to give up all thought of the mountains. The seacoast trip was very tempting; eighty miles west to Florence, forty miles, as we thought, north on the coast to Newport, seventy miles east again to Corvallis, and forty miles home again. "'Why," said Whittlesey "that is only two hundred and thirty miles, and we can average twenty-three miles a day like a daisy and get back not more than a day late." If the sanguine walker had known times in the space of three or four miles, we thought it would be best to eat a good supper at the postmaster's house, and dry off a little by the fire before trying to sleep in wet clothes. A. fter a good night's rest in a barn, that it was sixty miles up the coast we left at an early hour and went down instead of forty, he would, perhaps, the road along Lake Creek, following have been less eager. However, fully the north bank. The scenery on this equipped for the start, with blankets, frying-pan, grub, and oilcloths strapped in neat packs to our shoulders, we left the dormitory at 1p.m., Friday, April 2. little river is very beautiful. Sandstone cliffs, half covered with moss and small trees, raise their triangular pinnacles against the sky. Below, the river goes The first thing to do was to elect foaming and roaring towards the sea, officers; so before we had got through making some splendid cascades and town it was settled that DeLashmutt wearing huge blue caves in its lofty was to be Chief Geologist and bacon- banks. One place in particular called fryer, that Whittlesey was to hold the forth our most enthusiastic admiraoffice of Botanist and dishwasher (he tion. It is a bend in the river where the had an easy job), and I was to be the road climbs over a point known as Grand Prevaricator and coffee boiler. Cape Horn. Looking behind us up the The office of Prevaricator involves valley we could see in the background giving the official account. All others a sheer cliff, standing like a pile of are likely to be false and should not be pyramids. A little nearer, the stream regarded seriously. spreads around a wooded bend, a white Our first day's journey carried us torrent, into a deep pool below. Right over a very fiat, muddy, and uninter- across the canyon the wooded mounesting road to Elmira. Here we had a tain, its summit covered with clouds, very good supper of bacon, bread and towered up into the sky. It was hard for coffee, and slept in a barn. us to tear ourselves from such an enNext day we crossed the mountains chanted spot. by the Lake Creek trail, which branches About ten miles below Deadwood, from the main road about twelve miles from Elmira and saves about ten miles. the creek flows into the Siuslaw River. Here the main stage route comes down It carried us over some very steep the deep Siuslaw valley and, having mountains, some of them with snow on crossedthe united rivers,joins the Lake their summits. There was one canyon we had to pass through, at least fifteen hundred feet deep. We arrived at Creek Road. We kept straight on towards Seaton [Mapletoni, the head of tide, arriving there at about noon. The Deadwood post office at dusk, and, as it day was a model one for walking, had been raining all afternoon and we had crossed several creeks, one seven showery, but sunshiny. The road followed the river all along, except where Lane County Historian some gorge or cliff would drive it up In spite of the Botanist's erratic into the woods. There were some small creeks to cross,but we always managed to find foot logs. At Seaton we found that everybody steering, we reached Florence before dark, having pulled continuously for four hours and a half. On our way we passed a great stone quarry, several had gone down the river to church except Mr. Knowles, the storekeeper. He had attended the University in 1885, and when he found that we were students he was hospitality itself to us. He mills, one or two canneries, and a salmon hatchery, located just below Seaton. In Florence the barn we slept in belonged to a Mr. Hayes, whom we met in the hotel after supper. Mr. Hayes started a fire in his stove, cooked us is a mighty hunter, and his walls are some eggs, made coffee, and gave us decorated with many trophies of the some delicious Siuslaw honey. This chase. comes from the maple flowers and is perfect in whiteness and fragrance. We passed a very pleasant hour WIe were aroused at a very early chatting with Mr. Knowles, leaving in hour next morning by an enormous a boat at about half past two. The rooster, who sang us a solo from abeam change from walking to rowing was overhead. As breakfast used up the very pleasant to us, especially to the last of our bacon, we tried to buy some Botanist, who steered. After we had at each of the three stores in Florence, gone haifa mile or so down stream the but alas! The Siuslaw bar had been Geologist remarked: "By jinx! I know rough for some weeks past, and the now why Walter never goes boat-riding steamer that was to have gone to Yaquina Bay for supplies lay weather on the millrace." "You fellows had better take a turn bound at the wharf. So we shook the at steering, ifyou think it's so easy, and dust of Florence's sandy streets off our let me row awhile," said the Botanist. feet and came to the mouth of the "It's beastly cold sitting still in this wind." "You oughtn't to let a little thing like that bother you," said the Prevarica- tor. "Don't get discouraged; you're learning. We haven't hit the bank for five minutes." Siuslaw that morning. On the way up we passed the governmentjetty, which is sadly out of repair. Soon after leaving the mouth, having turned our faces northward, we came around a bend in the beach and saw Heceta Head. On our way we found a good many pretty Editor's note: This article appeared in the student-produced magazine, University of Oregon Monthly, Vol. 1, No. 3, May 1897, under the title, 'Three Boys on the Road." Through the alumni records, University of Oregon archivist Keith Richard was able to learn of the subsequent careers of two of the trio. Author J. R. Barber became a medical doctor serving in Portland. Walter Whittlesey taught economics at Princeton University. The records contained no post-graduate information about Mr. DeL ashm utt. Spring 1995 9 shells, starfish, and sand-dials. Out in the breakers seal were swimming, and now and then one would raise up and look at us with an almost human curiosity. We waded a small creek about noon and ate a very scanty lunch of pilot bread and dried peaches, just before coming to the mountain road over the head. This was said to be four miles howled through the cracks. There was a marsh near the barn, well supplied with frogs, who croaked all night long. On the whole, the place was well wor- thy of the name we gave it, Camp Misery. when we turned out next day, the rain had stopped and the sun was long, but after we had walked it we beginning to push the clouds away. thought it was at least six, and long After another vegetable meal, we went ones at that. It began to rain when we had gone a mile or so, and when we came to the lighthouse at half past three we were soaked through. We looked up the lighthouse keeper, Mr. Hald, who kindly showed us through the light, explaining everything to us. Heceta Head light is a revolving one, giving a flash every minute. Itis visible from a distance of forty miles. on along a pebbly beach, which grew narrower, until finally it ceased altogether, and we had to scramble over the rocks for three or four miles, crossing several small creeks, and seeing one beautiful waterfall, about fifty feet high. Athalf past nine we came to Ten Mile Creek, which was crossed in a boat. There were some men with a pack horse just beyond it, and one of them offered to go with us as far as Cape Perpetua and show us the road. Soon a steep trail a mile long, arriving at the after leaving the creek we were caught beach late that afternoon, a wet, be- in a heavy shower, which cleared the draggled, and tired trio. After half an clouds off, and showed us the blue sky. hour of silent progress along the sand, Our way carried us partly along among the Prevaricator exclaimed; "Give us the rocks, where we could see the beauthis night our nightly barn, and we will tiful sea-anemones waving their delidie in peace." cate green tentacles in the still pools, "Think of making a supper of crack- and partly over the cliffs, where we We stayed at the lighthouse for an hour and then went on over theheadby ers and coffee," groaned the Geologist. "I think you might have worked him for a feed;" said the hungry Botanist. "Who?" could look far out over the sea. At about noon we came to Cape Perpetua, a bold headland, where the trail passes about a hundred and fifty feet above the "The lighthouse keeper, of course." At about dark we reached our barn, andhaving obtained permission to sleep breakers. Looking south from here, we could see point after point running out in it, we turned in, after a strictly Opposite: The lighthouse at Heceta Head as it appeared in 1915. vegetarian supper. That night it rained pitchforks and blew great guns. The boards on the sides were three or four inches apart and the wind simply 10 Lane County Historian into the ocean, with surf breaking over rowed by a Dutchman with a large innumerable rocks. To the north we abdominal development, and came to could see an endless expanse of brown Newport at three o'clock. Here we were John hospitably received by our Loomis' family and stopped until noon next day. beach, all wavy with sun heat, while beyond, and almost out of sight, a long blue line marked Cape Foulweather, forty-five miles away. Below us lay the dark blue Pacific, with white caps tossing in the strong breeze, and the bright Newport is a great deal more sun glinting from the curves of the pleasant in April than in August. Everything seems fresher, and there are no noisy crowds of summer resorters. billows. We would have liked to stay longer, but Passing on, we crossed Yahatz it was Wednesday then and we had [Yachats] Creek and came to a small more than a hundred miles to go before house on the very margin of the ocean. Here for the small sum often cents we got a most bountiful meal of bread and milk, boiled mussels and pie. We had Monday. So we left at about one, Thursday afternoon, and after five hours of hot, dusty hill-climbing, noticed a great many piles of mussel shells along the coast, where the old Indian camps used to be, and we had pitied the poor savages for having to country, we came to the little station of live on shellfish, but when we had once tasted, our pity turned to envy. light blue sandstone. This is taken to Yaquina City by rail and shipped from there to San Francisco. WJe came to the beach about a quar- storming, we went on along the rail- ter of a mile beyond, and followed it as far as Alsea Bay, where we arrived at a through a short tunnel and having a through an uninteresting, burnt-over Pioneer, where the road and railroad cross. Here there is a large stone quarry, from which they take out a very pretty Next day, after our usual barnroad track for eight miles or so, passing little after five. That afternoon we narrow escape from the train. We left passed two men working the black the track at Little Elk and took the sand for gold. They said they were wagon road to Blodgett, saving about making money at it. As we went along five miles over the track. But the sev- the bay beach we noticed a most exquisitely delicate jade-green color, in the breakers at the mouth. We came into Waldport at sunset and, after a hearty supper at the Alsea enteen miles to Blodgett were very long and, at about three in the afternoon, the Prevaricator asked an old House, one of the two rival caravansa- ries of this great emporium, crossed the bay and slept, not in a barn, but in a vacant house. Next day we went up woman how much further it was. She turned around, blew a cloud of rank tobacco from her black old pipe, and said; "Hit es ten mile, I reckon." But it wasn't ten miles and we came into Blodgett in good season, having seen a the beach to Yaquina Bay, passing very pretty panorama oftheWillamette Seal Rock and the Life Saving Station. valley from the summit. Having eaten We crossed the bay in a small boat and barned we left next day in a driz12 Lane County Historian zling rain. About five miles from I'll give you supper for two bits apiece." Blodgett we caught up with a Salvation Army man, who had started for Newport, on his way to San Francisco, but had changed his mind and was coming back to Corvallis. He seemed to enjoy the Prevaricator's company and, after vainly trying to shock his morals, the poor perverter of the truth had to run almost in order to get rid of him. "All we can eat?" asked the wary Botanist." "You bet!" said the man. We followed him and made his eyes stick out about a yard as he watched us eat. The barn was about a mile out of town. Next day we got an early start and made Junction, thirty miles, by dark, having stopped an hour for lunch. Shortly before coming to Junction one WJe reached Corvallis early that afternoon, and visited the Agricultural of us suggested that we try to make Eugene that night. The idea was tak- College. There was a field day going on ing one, and, as we were not very tired, we concluded to make the attempt. We first lightened our packs by trading all that afternoon, and we boldly walked down through the grounds. We can hardly blame the Corvallisites for the provisions we had left for a good laughirigatus,for we looked like tramps of the deepest dye. Our noble Geologist square meal at a farm house, and then we started on our last walk. had a huge hunting knife hanging to his belt, the Botanist's leggings, once white, were a rich brown, while his coat was one big bunch of rags, and the wind he moon was high and gave us just enough light to walk by. In the south was playing overtures and harmonics through the Prevaricator's mighty crop of whiskers. But after the crowd found and we ran across several people we we could see the dark mass of Spencer Butte, which marked our goal. In the east, a dim shadowy line ofhills beyond Coburg. We passed through Irving at half past nine, completed our circuit at knew. The races were closely contested, half past ten, passing the well re- out who we were they became friendly, and excellent time was made, consid- membered sign post at the crossroads, ering that the boys had only trained a and stepped on first sidewalk at just week. five minutes past eleven. We reached After the games we went through the Dorm at midnight, having walked the town, followed by a curious crowd forty miles in fourteen hours and a of small boys. However, we were pretty half, and two hundred and fifty miles well used to being stared at, and didn't in nine days and a quarter. mind it a bit. We were wandering up and down the street, looking for a good he next day three sunburned students could have been seen walking place to eat supper, when a man came up and said; "You fellows looking for a from class to class, painfully, but trifeed?" "Yes." "Well, I run a hotel down here and Spring 1995 umphantly, and proud of having accomplished what everybody had said they would never be able to do. 13 Spanning a century with Ferry Street Bridges Bridges were less controversial in the early days Photos courtesy of Lane County Historical Museum rossing the Willamette River in Eugene was no easy task in the early days. That was especially so during the rainy months when the water ran high. You might ford the river in the low flow of mid to late summer, but the task became immensely more difficult with the onset of fall rains. The need to cross remained nonetheless. Call it human nature. Rain or shine, if you're on the south bank of the river, any river, chances are excellent that you'll want to be on the north bank before noon and back again by sundown. It was Eugene Skinner, the city's founder, who provided the first service to meet that urge. The launch date varies among historical sources, but suffice to say that the Skinner ferry service began sometime between 1847 and 1851. The need to cross the river grew ever more urgent down through the ensuing decadesas shown by the sequence of ever more sophisticated structures displayed on these pages. There appear to be no photos of the Skinner ferry service, nor could we locate photographic evidence of the first bridge built across the river at the site subsequently called the Ferry Street Bridge. EviAn industrious waterfront scene Ca. 1910. Eugene Excelsior Mill is drying balm wood in foregound, old Ferry Street Bridge spans Willarne te In 1890, most of the covered bridge at Eugene stood firm against the onslaught of Willamette flood waters. But the north section washed away. dence assembled in 1989 by Richard M. Pettigrew at Infotec Research Inc., of Eugene, shows that a structure was built about 1861 to replace Skinner's ferry. Pettigrew gathered his information for the City of Eugene's photographic display portraying the history of the Ferry Street bridges. Not much information about that early bridge has appeared in the traditional sources of Eugene history. Pettigrew says he could find little in his own search, nor could he locate a photograph. It presumably would have been a primitive wooden structure, probably not covered. Teacher-historian Lucile McKenzie of Eugene says she vaguely re16 calls some mention of it in historical documents she has encountered over the years, and she vowed that she would put it on her list of items to investigate in the near future. In any event, there have been four Ferry Street bridges, although the first two were not called by that name, at least not at first. Voters in Eugene had an opportunity to add a fifth bridge in the November election of 1994 but declined to vote favorably on a measure that would have either replaced or enhanced the present (fourth) bridge to accommo- date the anticipated future traffic. What a new bridge would have looked Lane County Historian The beginning of the end for historic covered bridge appears here as dismantling begins in preparation for a new steel span opened in 1913. like is anybody's guess, but the staff at Eugene OBEC Consulting Engineers the bridge's ability to withstand the onslaughts of a rampant Willamette took a stab at it with the computer- River at flood stage. Few Willamette generated model shown on pages 2021. The design, an OBEC official took Valley bridges survived the great flood of 1881, and fewer still the great flood pains to point out, is but one example of of 1890. Residents from all over informally many design possibilities for such a structure. You should not therefore called the new 1876 bridge "the covunder any circumstances consider it ered bridge in Eugene," often shortan "official" presentation of what such ened to "the Eugene bridge." It was built by A.S. Miller and Sons with a a bridge would be. Many an engineer has learned that main span of 230 feet in a structural bridges are controversial in the 1990s. design known as the "Smith Patent They were less so in the 187 Os. Pub- Truss." The cost to Lane County was lic outcry virtually demanded the sec- $10,200. Records show that the origi- ond bridge, built in 1876. Residents nal span required, among other items, subsequently took immense pride in $3,234 worth of lumber, $225 in paint Spring 1995 17 The age of steel arrived at the Ferry Street site in 1913 with the opening of this bridge, two lanes wide, which served for 38 years. This is a 1942 view. and shingles, $1,700 in labor, and $1,000innailsandf'reight. Ofthetotal firstflood, in January 1881, crested 22 feet above the low-water level. Debris contract, Lane County put up only half carried by the current attacked and thatsum,the resttobe raisedbypublic destroyed the northern approach to subscription, no easy task despite the the bridge but the span itself held firm. The wayward Willamette, however, popularity of the project. This covered bridge, considered an engineering marvel for its time, served for 37 years, surviving those two major uloodsthough not without damage. The 18 changed its channel slightly, something it did frequently during winter's high waterin thisdeltaarea. Thiscalledfor an additional span to bridge the widLane County Historian -S - flfljgflqaa4gJ Jpl Jt £'t-- .*" _____ r Two bridges spanned the Willamette at the Ferry Street site for a brief time in 1951. New four-lane bridge (left) remains today; 1913 bridge was dismantled. ened channel. Contractor A. S. Miller again did the job for $1,279. But the Willamette River remained a formidable enemy at flood stage. In February, 1890 the river rose again, attracting countless flood watchers who stood on the bridge to view the murky waters. They eventually rose to 24 feet this time, twofeethigher than the 1881 episode. Then late one nightwith no Spring 1995 spectators present on the bridge, fortu- natelythe rampaging current carried away both the north ramp and the newly added north span. But the main bridge held, and the missing links were soon replaced, this time by another contractor, L. N. Roney. The grand old bridge, which eventually acquired the name Ferry Street Bridge, served for almost a quarter of a century more. 19 The romance attached to the covered bridge, particularly any covered bridge now but a memory, cannot, of course, be matched by a mere steel span, and even less by the new reinforced concrete bridges of today. A 20foot-wide steel span replaced the covered bridge in 1913 and lasted 38 years until it, too, succumbed to progress and traffic. It was replaced in 1951 by the four-lane span (48 feet wide) of today. The cost of that most recent bridge was about 44 times that of the covered bridge of 1876, or $447,855, paid for by Oregon, Lane County, and the City of Eugene. Some community leaders discussed calling it the "Hurd Bridge," in honor of County Judge Clint Hurd, who actively promoted the new bridge as early as 1939. But in the end, the name "Ferry Street Bridge" prevailed as it does to this day.Ken Metzler Sources for this article include the Historian (November 1959 and March 1960), the City of Eugene traffic engineer's office, and the book A Century of Oregon Covered Bridges, by Lee H. Nelson, published by the Oregon Historical Society, 1960.) The future? This computer-generated concept shows what a new Ferry Street Bridge might look like. But, engineers are quick to point out, it is but one of many possibilities. Bridge design is controversial in modern times, and in 1994 voters in Eugene rejected a proposal to enhance or replace the "new" bridge, then 43 years old. (Computer model courtesy of OBEC Consulting Engineers, Eugene.) 20 Lane County Historian Spring 1995 21 Flam Flam: the story of a "legal" scam He never asked for money. Yet he was so articulate, so charismatic, so convincing that some folks just couldn't resist pressing cash into his hand. By Clair C. Cooley Eugene writer he announcement on this page appeared in the Eugene Guard on April 21, 1923. I had to attend that meeting to try to find out how the electronic inventions of Rev. Dr. David Eugene Olson worked. I found out! One of his inventions was quite visible and mysterious. The mystery was a huge Packard sedan, a luxury car of the early 20s. On top of the car he had four white insulators (used by electricians in those days) mounted one on each corner of the roof. They were holding a copper wire like an antenna. On the radiator cap of the car was a brass bell. The other inven- BIG Oil. MASS MEETING AT ARMORY TONIGHT! EIGHT O'CLOCK SHARP Wear Dr. Olson on the prospects of a great oil field in and near Eugene. The bublic is urgently requested to attend. Matters of the most vital importance to the entire community will be presented. Admissiou Free. No Collection. I'. COME EARLY IF VOlT WANT A SEAT how it worked other than how deep to drill. Allegedly he had found several pools in Texas and California which he tion was not shown yet. Perhaps we said he had developed. Some other would find out at the meeting how they developers had beaten him to leasing worked. He said that he could drive of the land but he was the one who had shown them where to drill. Dr. Olson was anxious to do the same right here in Lane County. Also he knew ofa huge this car over a piece of ground and his secret machine would ring the bell when he drove over a pooi of oil. He was not at liberty to tellushowitworkedbuthe river of oil that flowed from Central America to Alaska, and he said lots of scientists knew of the river but would Dr. Olson had another invention he not tell of it. showed us, though he couldn't tell us The people of Eugene had heard a had found big pools of oil under Eugene and Cottage Grove. 22 Lane County Historian lot about the Reverend David Eugene Olson and packed the building to capacity. He had become well known in Oregon Graduate School, and Chester E. Washburne, U.S. Geological Survey. All of them had studied oil fields in Oregon and other states, and they felt mons, his great charisma, and his that they knew their business. Their conclusion: It won't pay. declaration that he had found high That didn't stop Dr. Olson. He congrade oil in our area. Many knowledgeable people were tinued his meetings and, in his eloquent trying to tell everyone that there may manner of speaking, he ridiculed the be some oil here, but never in paying geologists. "The geologists are quantities; people wanted to find out 'foologogists' who talk like they know more from this respected man. We had everything. They had also said there already heard about how he had been was no oil in Texas, Wyoming, and asked to come to Lane County by Dr. E Montana." There is no evidence that C. Sanderson, the president of the Eu- geologists had ever made that stategene Bible University. Dr. Olson went ment. Dr. Olsonwentonto saythatthe the area because of his popular ser- right to work as a helper to many of the Christian churches in the small com- geologists were Darwinians, a popular derogatory name that fundamentalist Christians used frequently, implying sermons and was a big help to some you could not believe in evolution ifyou munities in the area. He gave excellent struggling small churchesa very believed the Bible's account of creation. spiritual man. Dr. Olson stressed that he was not asking for money. He had wealth Dr. Olson said, 'They cannot tell a monkey from a man." He also said, enough of his own to erect the derricks and drill to completion. Would you believe him? After all he was such a fine, charismatic, holy man have to stick to their statements to discourage drilling because, when I and he seemed to be so sincere. It would be so nice if we had oil here; it is sometimes hard to scratch out a living on the homesteads. The geologists did question his yentare. Several geologists and agencies had published articles in depth about "Although they are good people, they bring in paying wells, they will all lose their jobs." There were otherinvestigations also. A group of bankers formed a commit- tee that would study the proposed drilling, then recommend whether or not the Olson venture was a sound investment. As expected, their study resulted in a "Do not invest" recom- their studies of oil in the areathe mendation. Condon Club from the University of Oregon, Warren D. Smith, head of geology, and Edwin T. Hodge, professor of geology, both at the University of Oregon; Douglass C. Livingston, head of geology, and E. L. Packard, professor of geology, both at Oregon Agricultural College; Hubert Schenk, University of Spring 1995 Oregon's Governor Walter Pierce summoned Dr. Olson and his brother to Salem for a conference concerning oil drilling in Lane County. The meetinglastedfourhoursbutthe conclusion, if any, was not made public. The governor remained neutral. Surely now, Dr. Olson would give up 23 Oil Promoter ND EDENCE and move on. He became more aggressive. He started to get in the materials to build his derricks, and he began receiving the well drilling machinery and pipes. The Eugene Bible University owned 3,000 acres south of Eugene, so Dr. Olson had permission to use any of the area he needed. His secret instruments told him to drill on the hill where 28th Avenue and Baker Street are now located. The other spot was on top of Mt. David in Cottage Grove. His detractors noticed thathe put both rigs on top of hills so they would be more conspicuous. OIL OISEOVER[U I U SGIENTISTS Dic,d Euricino Obon One, So far he had not asked for any money. He said he had money enough to see it to the finish all on his own. But according to him, there were so many, many o 5t State Corporation Condors Club Does Rescued, Work to Ascertain If Lund Here W,fl Star trotnier Out Proof Presented to Show 000 tcgists Are Rrtsable In the Answer to Olson s Charges siHNE SY Nil Oft IN lINE COhN!! uttk_isaaii .11111 will. SINk 111151 W. IN [.8. V. IINOS IfEHE BEPIIIK. EAECTftN STARTEB BY Bl.S1J1 55 CEoiGCt1s ARE NOT INFA1IIfOlSON He erected his derrick May 15, 1923 and started drilling on June, 9, 1923. Spends Day at Slate Capital BifiLLINC III DI EII STARTER TEIIIAYB1ULSE Oil-mania headlines. had been sucked in. Dr. Olson was never indicted for people who expressed the desire to fraud, because he had only done what help him he had to figure a way that people wanted him to do, according to they could. He created 300 shares of an attorney I talked with. stock and let people invest at $1,000 a A rumor was circulated that the share. They wanted oil (and money) so EBUhad invested so much inhisproject badly that they evidently did buy his that the university went bankrupt and shares. There is no sure way to find out as a result the Pacific Christian Hospi- who or for that matter how many did buy. My family was certain that three farmers they knew did buy in. So he tal also was bankrupt. According to asked him to sell. Nothing illegal there. Ihave had two people saythathe did spill a barrel or two around the drilling rigs. I did not see that but it could have happened. It was oily around the drill- ion of the college's historian is that the college went broke because of mismanagement, not the alleged investments ing place but maybe all oil wells are that way. anathema at the university. Of course, the project folded and Dr. Olson left town. Alot of poor people lost money they couldn't afford. Evidently Christian College. The hospital was taken over by an order of Catholic nuns, "Sisters of St. Joseph of Peace" Martha Goodrich, who wrote her mas- ters degree thesis on the history of never asked people to buypeople Northwest Christian College, the opin- for Dr. Olson. She did say that the name of Dr. Olson had become an The Bible school became Northwest it was never known who they were and the name changed to Sacred Heart because losers would seldom admit they 24 which it still is. Lane County Historian The Masonic Cemetery By Ken Guzowski The City of Eugene T he Eugene Masonic Cemetery Association is a nonprofit organization established in 1994 through the work ofthe Eugene Masonic Lodge #11, the City of Eugene, and a large group of citizens committed to restoring the Hope Abbey Mausoleum and Masonic Cemetery at Eugene. This ten-acre cemetery is one of Eugene's most significant historic landscapes. The cemetery stands on a tree-covered hillside where about 475 vandalism. Vandals ravaged all 79 amber glass windows, which resulted in the bricking up of all window openings from the exterior. Graffiti has been a constant nuisance on the exterior of the mausoleum's poured concrete walls. The roof leaks and there is serious efflorescence and exfoliation evident on the interior and exterior of the structure, which is compromising high quality materials such as marble, bronze grillwork, and terrazzo floors. The National Trust for Historic plots are laid out in 20-foot squares separated by eight-foot-wide paths. When the cemetery was dedicated in 1859, the population of Eugene was Preservation awarded the City of Eugene a grant to fund creation of a cemetery and mausoleum restoration plan. Eugene Masonic Lodge #11 contribless than 800. In 1995 our population uted $1,000 to help match the grant. has exceeded 120,000, surrounding the The State Historic Preservation Office cemetery with middle-class housing. is providing funding to conduct a full Hope Abbey Mausoleum was built photographic and written survey of in 1913 and is the best example of every plot and marker in the cemetery. Egyptian Revival architecture in Or- Monument repair began for 100 vanegon. It was designed by Oregon ar- dalized tombstones last December with chitect Ellis F. Lawrence, who became the expertise of Jim Watkins from the founder and dean of the University of Eugene Granite and Marble Works Oregon's School of Architecture from and dedicated volunteers. Anyone interested in learning more 1914 to 1946. In 1980 the cemetery and mauso- about this project may call me at the leum became a City of Eugene Historic City of Eugene Planning Division, 687Landmark and was listed on the Na- 5481 or Kay Holbo, president of the tional Register of Historic Places. Masonic Cemetery Association, P0 Box In the past 25 years the cemetery 5934, Eugene 97405. Volunteers, conand mausoleum have been subjected to tributions and recollections of the deterioration by the elements and by cemetery in days past are needed. Spring 1995 25 Rose Bowl mania: the spice of historical coincidence How the records fall when the Ducks are on the field By George Beres Eugene writer coincidence is the spice of history, there's a liberal sprinkling of it in the University of' Oregon's return to the Rose Bowl in 1995. in 1923. Its head coach was Hugo Bezdek, the man who six years earlier coached Oregon to victory in the game over Penn State's sister university, First, much was made of that date coming 37 years after the Ducks' most recent appearance in the game in 1958, which came after a similar lapse of time from their last previous Rose Bowl game in 1920. But coincidences go far beyond that. For example: Oregon's 1995 defensive line coach, Joe Schaffeld, is a direct link between Pennsylvania. The 1958 Rose Bowl made a lasting impression on Oregon alumnus John McKay, at that time one of the assistants for Ducks coach Len Casanova. A few years later McKay was back in the Rose Bowl on a regular basis as coach of a football dynasty in the University of Southern California. the '95 and '58 teams, as he played virtually the entire game at guard in minder ofa reality ofrecruiting players '58. Under the rules of those years, the "entire" game meant just that, as play- Casanova got from McKay a re- in California compared to Oregon. Casanova noticed in one of McKay's ers went both ways instead of being USC Bowl victories the successful use Joe played all but five of a play that McKay, as Oregon offenminutes opposite Ohio State all- sive guru, had chosen not to use. platooned. American, Aurelius Thomas. As Joe recalled the 1958 game, "All I was thinking about was trying to "I asked him why he didn't use that play with us," said Casanova. "He said, 'Cas, at Oregon we just didn't have the survive,"though the Ducks didfarmore than that, losing to the heavily-favored Buckeyes by the scant margin of a field goal, 10-7. Considerthis bit ofdéjàvu: Oregon's 1995 foe, BigTen champion Penn State, personnel for that play. I've got those players now." The most vivid parallel between the Oregon teams of '58 and '95 was the played in one previous Rose Bowl game, games would be giant mismatches. In 26 way reporters wrote off chances for the Ducks to win, predicting that both Lane County Historian Rose Bowl days, 1958. Players (1. to r.) Harry Mondale, Norm Chapman, Jim Shanley, and Jack Morris with Coach Casanova. (Photo: U.O. Archives.) 1995 syndicated columnist Jim 20 respectively. And in each game, the Murray'sjokingly cynical column about Oregon slim chances was posted on the walls of the Oregon dressing room. If it Oregon quarterbackJack Crabtree fired up the Oregon squad in 1995, it was no less so in 1958. (shared in 1995 with Penn State running back Ki-Jana Carter.) Both times "Los Angeles writers called our game the Oregon squad relied heavily on the biggest mismatch they'd ever had passing. In 1958 Oregon's Ron Stover and Danny O'Neilwould be selected the game's "most valuable player" in the Rose Bowl," recalled Coach set a Rose Bowl record by catching ten Casanova. "They gave us no chance passes. In 1995 Oregon's Josh Wilcox whatsoever. That's one of the things caught 11 passes. Unfortunately for that got us a little fired up before the Wilcox, by 1995 that feat no longer game. We were out to prove we had qualified for a Rose Bowl record. ability. I'll tell you, the kids showed it. But centuries from now, the histori- They outgutted everybody and gave Ohio State all it could handle." cal archives will show that back in And, for the record, the fate we now call history would add a final touch of coincidence: In both bowl games, Oregon outgained its opponents statisti- full of Rose Bowl recordsincluding cally in first downs and yards gained team posted still another Rose Bowl but lost on the scoreboard, 10-7 and 38- record: most offensive plays (92). Spring 1995 1995 Dan O'Neil established a barrel most passes attempted (61), most passes completed (41), and most yardage gained passing (456). Together the 27 Answers to the trivia quiz Please take the trivia quiz on page 3this time it focuses on the University of Oregon, courtesy of archivist Keith Richardbefore reading the following. 1. Football field No. 1 came into use in 1894 and served until 1902. It parallels present-day Kincaid Street, from 13th to what would be 12th, or the sidewalk that runs from Kincaid to Deady Hall. It bore name, and no Rose Bowl team ever played on its turf Football field No.2, Kincaid Field, served from 1903 through 1918. It ran parallel East 13th Avenue from Kincaid eastward to the present-day parking lot for Johnson Hall, the University's administration building. The Rose Bowl team of 1917 played exclusively on this field, and the Rose Bowl team of 1920 played on this field and then on the No. 3 grounds, Hayward Field. Gridiron No. 3, Hayward Field, opened in 1919 at East 15th Avenue and Agate Street, and remains to this day as the site for track and field events. The Rose Bowl team of 1920 played there, as did the Rose Bowl team of 1958. Other Hayward teams played in the 1949 Cotton Bowl, the 1960 Liberty Bowl, and the 1962 Liberty Bowl. The Institute of Marine Biology at Charleston, near Coos Bay. Paul Simon, Democrat, representing Illinois, and William Roth, Republican, representing Delaware. The telescope was moved to the roof of Deady Hall, then to the new science building in 1951 (the building was named three times, incidentally, first "Science," then "Science I," and now "Pacific Hall"). The telescope moved again to the Pine Mountain Observatory in Central Oregon. It eventually was laid to rest in the University archives. Oregon Hall, originally the School of Education (now part of the Gilbert complex) and Fenton Hall, originally the U. of 0. library. (a) Esslinger Hall, the original Infirmary (now Volcanology), the original part of the Library, and Chapnan Hall. (b) They were built during the Depression Era, 1935-193 9. (c) The federal Public Works Administration paid for the construction. (d) The Work Projects Administration paid for the art work. 28 Lane County Historian Board of Directors of the Lane County Historical Society Terms expire 1995: Robert H. Cox, John McWade, Ethan L. Newman, Joseph Omlin, Janice Pattison, Terms expire 1996: Gilbert M. Hulin, Lucile McKenzie, Alta P. Nelson, Donald T. Smith, Alfaretta Spores. Terms expire 1997: A. J. Giustina, Orlando J. Hollis, Ken Metzler, Frances Newsom, Karen Olson. Director Emeritus: John W. Pennington. Officers: Ethan L. Newman, president; A. J. Giustina, vice president; Alfaretta Spores, recording secretary; Donald T. Smith, treasurer. How to keep in touch with your Lane County Heritage Thinkfor a moment about the things you may not have known about Lane County history: Total amount of real estate dealings in January 1869: $8,806.50. Identity of the "Poet of the Willamette" 1880s: Samuel L. Simpson. Sample of Mr. Simpson's work, a stanza from "Ad Willamettum": "Oh, thy glimmering rush of gladness Mocks this turbid life of mine, Rushing to the wild forever Down the sloping paths of time." First settler on Camp Creek: Joseph McLean, 1852. Settlers arriving in Lane County in 1847 (as "treacherous" memory serves): James M. Spores, Elisha W. Griffith, W. L. Davis, Ephriam Hughes, George Gilbert, Ashland 0. Stevens, Isaac Stevens, Ware, Snooks, Russell T. Hill, Luther White, A. Coryell, and Louis Coryell. The great floods of Lane County: 1851-2, 1861 -2, and 1881-2. These are among the items to be gleaned by reading the prime contact with the 19th Century past, A. G. Walling's 1884 book, Illustrated Historyof Lane County, Oregon, now available in reprint form. It is available to members of the Lane County Historical Society for $44.00, a membership discount from the regular retail price of $49.50. To order, write the Society, P0 Box 11532, Eugene, OR 97440 and pay only on delivery. (There is a $4.00 charge for postage if the book is to be mailed.) Non-members may purchase copies at the retail price. Lane County Histhrical Society P0 Box 11532 Eugene, OR 97440 rwarding & Return Postage Guaran Address Correction Requested LANE COUNTY HIST SPRING 9 220