w w ap eP m e tr .X w om .c s er UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE INTERNATIONAL EXAMINATIONS General Certificate of Education Ordinary Level * 8 1 9 1 9 4 4 9 8 4 * 6050/01 FASHION AND FABRICS Paper 1 Theory October/November 2013 2 hours Candidates answer Section A on the Question Paper. Additional Materials: Answer Booklet/Paper Coloured pencils (not yellow) Ruler Small piece of fabric, needle and thread READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS FIRST Write your Centre number, candidate number and name on all the work you hand in. Write in dark blue or black pen. You may use a soft pencil for any diagrams or rough working. Do not use staples, paper clips, highlighters, glue or correction fluid. DO NOT WRITE IN ANY BARCODES. The Insert is for use with Questions 1 and 7. You should illustrate your answers by means of clear, bold diagrams wherever possible. You may use a needle and thread and a small piece of fabric to help in making drawings of stitches. This fabric should not be handed in with your work. Section A Answer all parts of Question 1 in the spaces provided on the Question Paper. You are advised to spend no longer than 40 minutes on Section A. Section B Answer any three questions. Write your answers on the separate Answer Booklet/Paper provided. Enter the numbers of the Section B questions you have answered in the grid on this page. For Examiner’s Use Section A Section B At the end of the examination, fasten all your work securely together. The number of marks is given in brackets [ ] at the end of each question or part question. Total This document consists of 9 printed pages, 3 blank pages and 1 insert. DC (RW/JG) 65146/4 © UCLES 2013 [Turn over 2 Section A For Examiner’s Use Answer all questions in the spaces provided. 1 (a) Refer to the Insert. (i) Name the style features using at least two words in each case. A ...................................................... F ...................................................... B ...................................................... G ...................................................... C ...................................................... H ...................................................... D ...................................................... I ...................................................... E ...................................................... [9] (ii) The pattern suggests using Gingham or Baby Cord (Needlecord) fabrics to make the skirt, View G. Complete the following details: Fabric: Gingham Fibre content: ........................................................................................................... Structure: .................................................................................................................. Appearance: ............................................................................................................. Feel/handle: .............................................................................................................. Weight: ..................................................................................................................... [5] Fabric: Baby Cord (Needlecord) Fibre content: ........................................................................................................... Structure: .................................................................................................................. Appearance: ............................................................................................................. Feel/handle: .............................................................................................................. Weight: ..................................................................................................................... [5] (iii) State two reasons why the Gingham fabric described in (ii) is suitable for the skirt, View G. .................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................. [2] © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13 3 SINGLE THICKNESS (b) The fabric layout for the skirt, View G, is given below. 2 2 1 3 (i) Label the selvedges on the layout. (ii) Explain why there is no fold on the layout. For Examiner’s Use 1 3 [2] .................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................. [2] (iii) Name the pattern pieces shown in the layout above. 1 .......................................................... 2 .......................................................... 3 .......................................................... [3] (iv) List two pieces of equipment which would be needed when preparing the fabric for cutting out. .................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................. [2] (v) Draw and label four pattern markings which would be found on the pattern piece below. [4] © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13 [Turn over 4 (vi) Complete the list of requirements needed for the skirt, View G, in size 8. Fabric: length: ............................. width: ................... Thread: fibre content: ................... amount: ................ Ribbon: fibre content: ................... length: .................. width: .................. Interfacing: type: ................................ length: .................. width: .................. Zip fastener: length: ............................. (vii) For Examiner’s Use [11] The pattern states that the fabric can be ‘with or without nap’. Explain what this means. .................................................................................................................................. .................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................. [2] (c) (i) Using notes and labelled diagrams, describe one way of transferring pattern markings for the ribbon trim from the paper pattern to the fabric. .................................................................................................................................. .................................................................................................................................. .................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................. [4] (ii) Suggest one suitable machine stitch to attach the ribbon to the yoke. Name of stitch .......................................................................................................... Stitch length ......................................... © UCLES 2013 Stitch width ......................................... [3] 6050/01/O/N/13 5 (iii) The skirt, View G is gathered. Explain how the sewing machine settings need to be altered before stitching the gathers. For Examiner’s Use .................................................................................................................................. .................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................. [2] (iv) Give one reason for this alteration. .............................................................................................................................. [1] (d) Complete the instructions for making and attaching the yoke on skirt, View G, using some of the words from the following list: 1.5 cm wrong side clip machine stitch hemming gathering tack right right side towards yoke bulk 6 mm balance mark (i) Attach interfacing to the yoke front and back. Pin and tack the yoke front to yoke back. ................................. yoke front to yoke back at right side seam. (ii) With ................................. sides together, pin and ................................. the skirt to the yoke matching centre ................................. and right side seams. (iii) [1] [3] Pull up ................................. stitches to fit. Pin, tack and machine stitch the seam along the ................................. line. [2] [(d) is continued over the page] © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13 [Turn over 6 (iv) Layer the seam to reduce ................................. . Press the seam ................................. the yoke. (v) [2] With right sides together, pin yoke facing to ................................., matching centres and right seams. Pin and tack the upper edges. (vi) Machine stitch together and remove tacking. Trim seam and ................................. curve. (vii) [1] Understitch the facing to stop facing showing on the ................................. of the garment. (viii) [1] Turn facing to inside, fold under seam allowance and secure with ................................. stitch. (e) (i) [1] [1] Explain how layering in (d)(iv) above will improve the appearance of the yoke. .................................................................................................................................. .................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................. [2] © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13 For Examiner’s Use 7 (ii) Using labelled sketches, draw four symbols which would be found on the care label of one fabric described in (a)(ii). For Examiner’s Use Name of chosen fabric .................................................................. [4] (iii) Explain the correct way to press gathers on the completed skirt made from the fabric chosen in (e)(ii). .................................................................................................................................. .................................................................................................................................. .................................................................................................................................. .............................................................................................................................. [3] [Total: 78] © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13 [Turn over 8 Section B Answer three questions from this section. 2 (a) State the origin of wool fibres. [1] (b) Describe six properties of wool fibres. [6] (c) State three reasons why wool is often blended with other fibres such as acrylic. [3] (d) Name and describe two fabrics which can be made from wool/acrylic fibres. [4] (e) Explain the correct way to care for a wool/acrylic blend skirt. [4] [Total: 18] 3 (a) Draw and label the following sleeve styles: (i) Short Raglan sleeve (ii) Long Magyar sleeve (iii) Short plain set-in sleeve with a straight-band cuff. [6] (b) Using notes and labelled diagrams, explain how to: (i) prepare the straight-band cuff, on a short sleeve, using interfacing [5] (ii) attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve [5] (iii) press the cuff. [2] [Total: 18] 4 Compare the following terms used in garment-making: (a) Ironing and pressing [3] (b) ‘Hooks and eyes’ and ‘hooks and bars’ [3] (c) Loop stitch (blanket stitch) and buttonhole stitch [4] (d) Top-stitching and under-stitching [4] (e) Shirring and smocking. [4] [Total: 18] © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13 9 5 (a) Draw a labelled sketch of a pair of shorts with an elastic casing for a child. [2] (b) Using notes and diagrams, explain how to: (i) prepare the elastic casing [4] (ii) calculate how much elastic is needed [2] (iii) insert the elastic and fasten it securely. [4] (c) Discuss three important points to consider when choosing ready-made clothing for children. [6] [Total: 18] 6 (a) State two reasons for using fastenings on garments. [2] (b) Using labelled diagrams, explain how to work the following on a top made from cotton poplin fabric: (i) Stitch a four-holed button by hand [5] (ii) Attach a press-stud by hand [3] (iii) Make a rouleau loop using self-fabric binding. [8] [Total: 18] 7 Refer to the skirt, View D on the Insert. (a) Sketch and label the skirt to show how hand embroidery and lace trim could be worked on the skirt yoke, to give more interest. [3] (b) Using labelled sketches, explain how: (i) the lace trim design in (a) would be worked by machine (ii) the hand embroidery would be worked using three different hand embroidery stitches. [6] (c) Assess five points to consider when buying accessories for a teenager. [4] [5] [Total: 18] © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13 10 BLANK PAGE © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13 11 BLANK PAGE © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13 12 BLANK PAGE Copyright Acknowledgements: © New Look Pattern No. 6594; Simplicity Pattern Co. Ltd; 2006. Permission to reproduce items where third-party owned material protected by copyright is included has been sought and cleared where possible. Every reasonable effort has been made by the publisher (UCLES) to trace copyright holders, but if any items requiring clearance have unwittingly been included, the publisher will be pleased to make amends at the earliest possible opportunity. University of Cambridge International Examinations is part of the Cambridge Assessment Group. Cambridge Assessment is the brand name of University of Cambridge Local Examinations Syndicate (UCLES), which is itself a department of the University of Cambridge. © UCLES 2013 6050/01/O/N/13