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THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA GREENSBORO
DEPARTMENT OF CONSUMER, APPAREL AND RETAIL STUDIES
Spring 2016
ADP 252: Studio II: Patternmaking
Tuesday and Thursday 2:30 – 4:45
368 Stone Building
INSTRUCTOR: Ms. Ann G. Ramsey
Telephone: (336) 256-0270
Email: agramsey@uncg.edu
Office: 359 Stone Building
Hours: 10:00 – 11:00 Tuesday and Thursday, and by appointment
NOTE: The instructor reserves the right to alter the syllabus if necessary. Additional
information about assignments, guest speakers and lecture topics may be given
throughout the semester.
Course Description: Prerequisites : Grade of C (2.0) or better in MAT 115, APD
200, APD 242, APD 251, and CRS 211. Introduction to the apparel design process.
Introduction to basic flat pattern, draping, and fitting principles. Theories and methods in
designing apparel for various target markets.
Course Rationale:
Apparel designers need to have a thorough knowledge of how garments are built and put together.
The more one knows about fit, construction, and pattern development, the more creative one can
be in designing. This course emphasizes flat patternmaking skills supported with garment
construction and increased terminology and knowledge of the apparel product design industry.
Course Objectives:
1. To apply flat pattern manipulation to basic designs including bodices, skirts, dresses,
sleeves, collars, and necklines.
2. To understand how the 2 dimensional shape translates to the 3 dimensional form
3. To work effectively with pattern making tools and sewing notions.
4. To understand the basic elements of apparel construction.
5. To understand and analyze garment structure.
6. To develop a working knowledge of sewing equipment.
7. To understand apparel construction terminology.
Text: Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 5th edition, Joseph-Armstrong and Pattern Essentials, a
student handbook by O’Rourke-Kaplan.
List of Topics:
 Basic hand sewing and pressing techniques.
 Using sewing equipment, to include: sewing machines, sergers, and pressing
equipment.
 Flat Pattern Principles (Dart Manipulation, Added Fullness, Contouring)
 Basic machine stitching and garment assembly.
 Tool usage to include scissors, needles, seam rippers, measuring equipment, French
curves, hip curve ruler, pattern notcher, needle point tracing wheel and different types
of cutting systems from hand scissors to industrial cutting methods and machinery.
 Sewing terminology.
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Thread characteristics
Properties of fabric, layout, grain, cutting and appropriateness to design.
Apparel design processes and the use of trend analysis and target market research in
developing and marketing a product.
Garment analysis: to include stitch and seam structures relative to garment design,
materials, equipment, quality and cost.
Order of assembly operations and its relevance to garment construction, quality,
efficiency and cost.
Integration of creative design, technical design, customization and mass production.
Basic fit issues relative to garment style and different body types.
Course Requirements:
 Competency in basic hand sewing techniques
 Competency in knowledge and use of sewing equipment
 Understanding the elements of garment fit: seams, darts, gathers, pleats, tucks
 Understanding the properties of fabric and how to use them when planning a design
and pattern
 Understanding the separate elements of facings, interfacings, lining
 Basic understanding of the apparel manufacturing sector, industrial assembly
processes, terminology and equipment
 Basic understanding of trend, and how clothing designs are developed, manufactured
and checked for quality
CARS Statement on Academic Integrity:
The UNCG Academic Integrity Policy States; “If knowledge is to be gained and properly
evaluated, it must be pursued under conditions free from dishonesty. Deceit and
misrepresentations are incompatible with the fundamental activity of this academic institution and
shall not be tolerated.” By choosing to enroll in this course and by completing the assignments,
projects, examinations, etc., you are by default held to the standards of the Academic Integrity
Policy, and you are subject to sanctions should you violate the policy in any manner.
Registration: It is the student's responsibility to ensure proper enrollment in classes. You are
advised to review your official class schedule during the first week of the semester to ensure
proper enrollment. Should you determine an error in your class schedule, correct it with your
advising office.
UNCG seeks to comply fully with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). Students
requesting accommodations based on a disability must be registered with the Office of Disability
Services located in 215 EUC. www.uncg.edu/ods
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EVALUATION:
Assignments:
Basic patterns
Dart Manipulation
Zipper insertion
Seam types & Finishes
Facings & waistbands
Sleeve insertion
Updating Profile in Canvas
Projects:
Bag
Skirt
Dress Shirt
Dress
Quizzes
Final Project (woven top and pants)
TOTAL POINTS
Points
300
200
100
200
800
LATE ASSIGNMENTS, QUIZZES AND MAKE UP EXAMS
 No make-up exams, late projects or late assignments will be accepted, with
the exception of a medical emergency or family emergency or death. In either
events, written documentation is required before a make-up test will be
administered, or an assignment is accepted. The student is responsible for all
material covered in the class, regardless of the reason of absence.
 Students should allow for sufficient time to complete all assignments.
CLASS ATTENDANCE
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Attendance and participation in this course are mandatory.
An incomplete will only be given for documented illness or death in the family
which occurs after the course withdrawal date.
Two tardies &/or early departures will count as one absence.
If you are late to class by 10 minutes or more, you will be counted absent.
Note: The instructor reserves the right to drop a student from the course
after three (3) absences.
EVALUATION:
All work completed for this course will meet the minimum requirements of the UNCG Honor
Code. Your grade will be based on University Guidelines; refer to The University of North
Carolina at Greensboro Undergraduate Bulletin. DO keep in mind that “excellent work” requires
independent thinking and that to receive this grade, you must bring qualities to your work “above
and beyond” those expected by this program. 1 Garment quality is evaluated based on “first
quality” for ready-to-wear garments; in other words, requirements will be for projects to be
constructed in a manner that would be found in a full priced ready-to-wear retail setting (no
“seconds” or “irregulars”).
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Assignments:
Assignments in this course will be directly related to the weekly topics and in class
demonstrations. Assignments will be assigned in class, so it is essential that you attend
faithfully. Being absent is not an excuse for missing an assignment.
Projects:
Projects are larger assignments that will put to use all the skills you have learned in your
assignments. They are meant to showcase your growing skill and are therefore more
heavily weighted grade wise. As with other assignments, the late policy applies.
Quizzes:
There will be announced quizzes during the semester. This will test your knowledge of
the material covered in class lectures and from the lectures. It is important to stay on top
of the material, and question what is confusing to you. Note: You must be present on the
day of the quiz, as there will be no make-up quiz.
GRADING SCALE
A+= 97.0-100
A = 93.0-96.99
A- = 90.0-92.99
B+=87.0-89.99
B = 83.0-86.99
B-=80.0-82.99
C+=77.0-79.99
C=73.0-76.99
C-=70.0-72.99
D+=67.0-69.99
D=63.0-66.99
D-=60.0-62.99
F=below 60
A = high quality work beyond stated requirements: “Excellent”
B = quality work satisfying requirements: “Very good”
C = work satisfies requirements: “good”
D = minimally acceptable: “needs more effort”
F = unacceptable 2
Work that is submitted late and/or incomplete will not be given credit. Incomplete work
is just too complicated to evaluate in a manner that is equitable to those who did complete
the work on time; therefore, incomplete work will not be graded. If a hem is required, and
the garment is not hemmed, it will be considered incomplete. If you run out of muslin,
get more because a garment missing its back will be considered incomplete. If a pattern is
missing pieces, it is incomplete. If ten sketches are required and only seven are
submitted, none of the sketches will be evaluated. If you are tempted to ask if something
is required for completion, the answer will most likely be yes, it’s required, so just do it.
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STUDENT RESPONSIBILITY
1. Each student in APD 252 is responsible for reading the syllabus and becoming familiar
with the policies and schedule outlined within
2. Students are expected to attend class with all materials needed for the assignment at hand and
with any relevant homework. As failure to come with materials and/or homework results in no
meaningful work being done, it will be treated as an unexcused absence. Class time is to be used
for current assignments.
3. If a student misses a class, it is the student's responsibility to get the assignment from the
instructor or a fellow student. It is also the student's responsibility to get notes on missed
demonstrations. Demonstrations will not be repeated. Class time will not be spent catching up
students who miss class - it is not fair to take that time away from the students who attend.
4. Assignments and projects will not be accepted late, nor will they be accepted incomplete.
(To clarify – if an assignment is due at 11:00am, then it is late if turned in at 110:05am and will
not be accepted. If it requires a hem and doesn’t have one, it’s incomplete and won’t be accepted)
Exceptions will only be made for students with documented emergency excuses. When a student
misses an assignment due date because of an emergency, the student should show the instructor
what work has been done on the due assignment upon returning to class - in other words, don't
come back to class empty handed.
5. Making up missed exams/project due dates: Only students with documented emergency
excuses will be allowed to make up missed exams. Students should be prepared to take the
missed exam upon their return to class.
6. Dependent on your level of sewing and patternmaking proficiency and your ability to learn
skills, an average of 6-12 hours of work outside the class per week may be necessary.
7. Food, beverages, and smoking are not permitted in the lab at any time.
8. Please turn cell phones to “manner mode” or off while in class and refrain from talking on
them during class. Do not wear earphones to listen to music, audio, etc. during class.
9. Put your personal belongings in your locker and not on the work tables. The department is not
responsible for anything left in the lab. Do not leave drapes on the dress forms.
10. Unannounced / “pop” quizzes may happen at any time.
11. Use a magnet on UNCG machines if you need a seam guide. NO TAPE seam guides on
machines. (Do not use magnets on electronic machines. Magnets will damage an electronic
machine.)
12. If you iron interfacing on the ironing board covers or the irons, you will be responsible for
replacing the cover and cleaning the iron. Use a press cloth under your garment, and on top (next
to the iron).
Supplies:
Students are expected to come to class prepared and to have all of their own supplies for
this class including patternmaking tools, fabric, muslin, thread, zippers, feet, ankles,
bobbins, bobbin cases, needles, and any additional supplies for completing the
assignments and projects.
Thin straight pins
Pincushion (preferably wrist)
Needle point tracing wheel
Tape measure
Set of French curve rulers
Fabric transfer/marking/carbon paper
Push pins
Seam ripper
Hand sewing needles
Fabric marking pencil
Fabric Scissors
Vary curve ruler
Paper scissors
18” clear flat ruler
Eraser
Pencils
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Pattern hooks
Scotch Magic tape
Muslin fabric (as needed)
Fashion Fabric (as needed)
Pattern notcher
Poster Board
Zippers (as needed)
Important:
When we get into the Projects, you will need to purchase thread and notions that matches
your fashion fabric.
Your Final Project is due for in class presentation during the class Final Exam time
on May 3 at 3:30pm. Your project must be complete and ready for presentation by
3:30pm. No late or incomplete projects will be accepted after that time.