The University of North Carolina Greensboro
Department of Consumer, Apparel, and Retail Studies
Spring 2016 – SUBJECT TO REVISION
APD 200
Office: Stone 201
Phone: 366-299-4999 (before 9 p.m.)
(as of 1/6/2016)
Instructor: Susanne P. Jordan, PhD
Office hours T/TH 11:30-12:30 and by appointment.
Email: smjordan@uncg.edu
All students registered for APD 200 or who have been given permission to ADD APD 200, are expected in class
the first day and the first week of class. Students who are absent either of the first two days of class will be
dropped to make space for others on the waiting list.
Note: The instructor reserves the right alter the syllabus as necessary at any time during the semester.
Contacting me via e-mail: If you need to contact me with something that is not a response to an e-mail I have
sent, PLEASE begin a new thread (message) sending it to me at smjordan@uncg.edu. If you hit “respond” to
bring up an issue unrelated to an original message from me then your new message gets mixed up with other
messages and it becomes difficult to identify YOUR message.
Accommodations: UNCG seeks to comply fully with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). Students
requiring accommodations based on a disability must be registered with the Office of Disability Service in 215
Elliott University Center. 334-5440. http:/./ods.dept.uncg.edu/,ods@uncg.edu.
Required Text: Threads Sewing Guide, Carol Fresia (Ed), Taunton Press. ISBN 978-1-60085-144-5 (Available
from UNCG bookstore or Amazon.)
CARS Student Handbook: http://www.uncg.edu/bae/cars/pdfs/CARS-Student-Handbook.pdf Please note
departmental standards as outlined in the CARS Student Handbook particularly related to class preparation and
participation, written and oral assignments. These standards apply to APD 200.
Apparel Design Standards: The APD program has adopted a set of construction standards that applies to all APD
classes. A copy of that document is in Canvas. It is color coded to show what applies to each APD class level.
Yellow highlighted areas apply to APD 200. A copy of this document is in Canvas but will not be distributed in
class since it does not photocopy well in black and white. However, all students are encouraged to print out or
save a copy in color and keep it as a basic reference for current and all future APD classes.
Required materials/supplies are noted in bold on the equipment list. UNCG Bookstore will carry the essential
Juki sewing machine parts and Juki needles. Other sewing equipment is available from stores like JoAnn’s,
Hancocks and specialty quilting/sewing stores. Students may also purchase their Juki equipment directly from
Bill’s Sewing. Contact information for Bill’s and a list of equipment is at the end of this syllabus.
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The instructor posts all handouts on Canvas, organized by units. I also distribute one copy of each handout
(except the standards document which is color coded). Rubrics are to be attached to all assignments when
turned in. Please make another copy if you misplace the original. Handouts and rubrics as well as samples are all
included in your portfolio.
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NOTE: Students who do not have the text, essential Juki supplies and recommended sewing equipment by
the 4th day of class (we have a sewing exam that day) will be dropped from APD 200.
Course Description:
(3:2:3) There are no prerequisites for this class. The purpose of the course is to
develop and increase students’ apparel construction skills. Students who earn a grade of C or better will earn
three hours credit as a CARS elective.
Course Rationale:
Apparel design students need a working knowledge of sewing construction techniques
and skills demonstrating and building sewing proficiencies applicable to flat pattern drafting, draping, grading,
sizing and fit as offered in advanced apparel design classes.
Course Objectives:
Emphasis in this class is on identifying, utilizing, and improving appropriate clothing
construction skills. Students have the opportunity to compare and utilize industry and home sewing techniques,
patterns and resources as they develop skills including, but not limited to the use of appropriate materials,
accurate cutting, pattern and instruction reading, accurate seams, seam finishes, darts, setting in sleeves,
insertion of zippers, under stitching, and effective pressing techniques. Students will practice sewing techniques
as they construct samples and apply these skills to the sewing proficiency blouse (SPB) and a final project where
students are expected to demonstrate their increased autonomy in clothing construction skills.
Expectations:
Students are expected to be in class arriving on time, working on projects for APD 200. Please
review the syllabus so you will have the materials needed for class and come to class prepared. Reading
assignments should be completed prior to class. All students are expected to do all of their own construction.
Students have the opportunity to develop skills that provide the foundation for success in future APD courses
and for construction of garments classified as “easy” to “intermediate.”
The course content is organized in an orderly “sequence of sewing” and students are expected to demonstrate
previously learned skills as they are applicable to projects reflecting “new learning” throughout the course.
Port Folio Assignment (5% of total grade)
Students will develop a portfolio of examples of their work from APD 200. The portfolio functions as a
student's personal reference including sewed samples, assignment instructions, related handouts, and
rubrics. Instructions/rubric for development of the portfolio will be presented and demonstrated
throughout the semester. This is not intended as "extra work" but rather an orderly accumulation of
APD 200 resources developed throughout the semester and samples of core techniques that will serve
students as a resource in subsequent APD courses.
The portfolio will be graded as follows:
Outstanding (meaning examples would be graded A, neatly organized, and incorporate all key
lesson/units = A. Samples graded originally as less than “B” are to be redone for the port folio to be
considered, “outstanding.”
Acceptable (meaning the majority of samples would be graded an average of B or better, neatly
organized, and include components of most key lesson/units) = C
Failing (meaning some or many samples would be graded C or lower, lacking in order or neatness, and
key lesson/units are not included) = F
What constitutes “passing” APD 200. As a minimum passing grade (C) students will attend class regularly,
successfully complete the assignments, quizzes and exams with quality workmanship as outlined in rubrics;
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Students who receive less than 80% on any given assignment, are expected to redo the assignment
included in the port folio in order for it to “count” toward completion of the port folio. The original
rubric must be included in the portfolio. The purpose of the port folio is for the student to develop
samples of work at A or minimally B levels of performance to serve as their personal resource later.
construct and complete the sewing proficiency blouse; port folio, and construct a final project from an instructor
determined list of options. All incomplete or late work is graded as a zero. There is no “extra credit.”
Students are expected to be familiar with the guidelines for students document for detailed expectations
related to preparation, attendance, etc. . See: http://www.uncg.edu/bae/cars/pdfs/CARS-StudentHandbook.pdf A copy is posted on Canvas.
Final:
Students will prepare a 3-4 page written (typed, double spaced) summary and present a 5 minute talk to
demonstrate highlights of what they have learned, their challenges, and future goals in clothing construction or
the apparel industry. Students may show personal projects as well as work from APD 200 to support their
presentation. (This is not intended to be a student summary of the syllabus!) See for written and oral
presentations: http://www.uncg.edu/bae/cars/pdfs/CARS-Student-Handbook.pdf
Evaluation of Sewing:
Will be evaluated on standards of the Association of Sewing and Design
Professionals (ASDP), including accuracy of cutting using scissors and/or a rotary cutter, consistent seam
allowances, clean starts and finishes with threads secured properly, use of appropriate seam finishes, correct
application of special techniques such as edge stitching, under stitching or stitching in the ditch, correct pressing
and overall neatness of the finished item. See ASDP guidelines for details – a copy is in Canvas Documents.
Please note standards highlighted in yellow are particularly applicable to APD 200.
Point system
Class attendance, preparation and participation
5%
50 pts.
See p. 3-4, 21-22 CARS Handbook
(http://www.uncg.edu/bae/cars/pdfs/CARS-Student-Handbook.pdf
(Includes pop quizzes, “exam wrappers” and having essential equipment)
Port folio
5%
50
Samples, assignments and sewing exams
45%
450
Sewing Proficiency Blouse
20%
200
Final Project
20%
180-200
Final Presentation
5%
50
See pages 24-27, 29-30 CARS Handbook
Grading scale:
A= high quality work beyond stated requirements. “Excellent”
B= quality work satisfying requirements. “Very good”
C = satisfies work requirements “Good”
D = Minimally acceptable: “Needs more effort”
Academic Integrity: “Intentionally using or attempting to use unauthorized materials, information, or study
aids in any academic exercise. Cheating includes but is not limited to unauthorized copying of the work of
another student, using notes or other materials not authorized during an examination, giving or receiving
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Unacceptable
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A+ = 97-100
A = 93-96.99
A- = 90-92.99
B+= 87-89.99
B = 83-86.99
B-= 80-82.99
C+= 77.-79.99
C = 73-76.99
C-= 70.72.99
D+= 67.69.99
D = 63.66.99
D- = 60-62.99
F = below 60
information or assistance on work when it is expected that a student will do his/her own work, or engaging in
any similar act that violates the concept of academic integrity. Cheating may occur on an examination, test, quiz,
laboratory work report, theme, out of class assignment or any other work submitted by a student to fulfill
course requirements and presented as solely the work of the student.”
ALL construction MUST BE DONE ENTIRELY BY THE STUDENT WHO SUBMITS THE WORK. Students are
expected to demonstrate their skills and growing proficiency during in-class sewing. The instructor reserves
the right to refuse to accept work that has not been observed as significantly constructed in class or instructor
(or class assistant) supervised help sessions. Appropriate sanctions for offenders include failing the
assignment, failing the course, or recommended expulsion.
Class Attendance, Lab Use and Building Access
Students have access to Stone building after hours by virtue of being currently registered for an APD studio
class. When you use your swipe card, your entrance is recorded so that campus police have an accurate
account of who has entered the building and classroom. You may not use your card to bring in anyone else.
Unauthorized people in the building after hours can be escorted from the building by campus police.
‘Unauthorized people” includes all students NOT CURRENTLY ENROLLED in APD studio (sewing lab) classes.
The sewing labs are shared work spaces for APD students and are not intended for socializing with friends.
Should students see anyone not authorized to be in the sewing labs or Stone Building after normal business
hours, they are to contact the UNCG Police Department. 334-4444.
Propping doors open after hours is strictly not allowed. By doing this you may unintentionally allow
unauthorized people to enter the building. Propping doors or leaving the sewing lab door open triggers a
silent alarm at the police station causing them to respond as if to a burglary. Anyone setting off that alarm
and thereby creating a "false call" situation can be fined up to $500.
When students are in the building after hours, building use should be limited to the area around the labs.
Conference rooms, other classrooms, and labs on other floors are off limits. Students admitting non-currently
enrolled students into the studios will have their swipe card access limited or revoked.
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2. Students are expected to attend class with all materials needed for the assignment and with
relevant/assigned readings or homework completed before class begins. Failure to come to class on
time with materials, preparation and assignments completed results in no meaningful work being
done. Lateness, lack of preparation, and leaving class early will be treated as an unexcused absence.
SEE ABOVE on absences. Class time is to be used for assignments in this class.
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1. Attendance, preparation, and participation in this course is mandatory. Absences for department
authorized internships, religious holidays and certain university functions (like an athlete participating
in a game/match) will be excused, but students are expected to notify the instructor at least two weeks
prior to the planned absence and work due may be expected to be turned in before the planned
absence. An incomplete will only be given for documented illness or death in the family, which occurs
after the course withdrawal date.
The instructor reserves the right to drop a student from the course after three (3) absences. The
instructor reserves the right to drop a student from the course who does not have the text and
recommended essential equipment by the 4th day of class. Three absences (or poor preparation for
class) is a MAXIMUM grade of “C” for attendance and preparation. Absences or poor preparation in
excess of 3 days will result in the final course grade being dropped by one or more total grades. See
CARS Handbook regarding class participation.
3. If a student misses class or arrives late, it is the student’s responsibility to get the information from
Canvas, the class teaching assistant, or a fellow student.
4. Assignments will not be accepted late or incomplete. The instructor will provide feedback on
incomplete or late projects, but they will be graded as a zero.
5. Please no food in the lab other than a water bottle with a secure lid. Please eat in the hall or lounge.
6. Cell phones are to be turned off, put away and not used during class. Please do not wear earphones in
class. Earphones interfere with students benefitting from “teachable moments” during class. There is
NO REASON for any student to use a cell phone or other electronic communication device during class
since handouts are distributed in class. Students using cell phones or having them out during class time
will be asked to leave the class, not return, and will be counted as absent for the day.
7. If your sewing machine malfunctions, please try to fix it by re-threading the machine, checking the
position of the needle, and making sure the bobbin and case are correctly placed. NEVER turn the
tension disks or speed control of the machine. If you cannot remedy the situation, notify the instructor
or class assistant and leave a note on the machine. Never leave a machine in a non-working condition.
8. Put your personal belongings in your locker. Space is limited. Students in APD 200 share lockers. The
department is not responsible for materials left in class. Do not leave work on dress forms.
9. PLEASE NO TAPE seam guides on machines. (Do not use magnets on electronic machines – Bernina 330
machines. Magnets damage an electronic machine.)
10. If you iron interfacing on the ironing board covers or the irons, you will be responsible for replacing the
cover and cleaning the iron. Use a press cloth under your garment, and on top (next to the iron).
11. Please DO NOT enter the sewing lab without instructor permission while other classes are in session.
12. Students may not bring into the sewing labs individuals who are not currently registered for Apparel
Design studio classes. Doing so will result in loss of after class access to the sewing labs.
Examples of final jacket projects – This list will be revised during the semester, depending on
availability of patterns. Here are three different examples of varying difficulty.
All students will complete one or more of the following projects using an instructor approved jacket pattern
consisting of set in sleeves, collar, and an appropriate choice of seam finish completed in a satisfactory manner.
All jackets must be constructed from woven fabrics, (no knits, no fleece, and no 100% polyester.) Additional
patterns will be recommended during the semester:
Sewing Workshop e-shrug (FREE - copies will be distributed to all students who want this pattern.) Sleeves run
short so plan to make adjustments. (Maximum credit 180/200 points, or 90%).
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Note: The E-shrug is the easiest jacket. The pattern comes with easy adjustments for longer sleeves and a
longer jacket body. Hems and edges must be finished with an approved method if this pattern is used. Must
be constructed using woven fabrics. The maximum grade/points possible are 180 of 200 points.
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e- shrug
Sewing Workshop Liberty shirt/jacket (Available from Sewing Workshop at a special price to UNCG students.)
The instructor will order the patterns directly from Linda Lee, designer.
Liberty Shirt – Sewing Workshop. Wonderful techniques.
Vogue 1263 - Donna Karan – Challenging, but beautiful. Carefully select size of pattern, purchase extra fabric
since pattern pieces are very large and the jacket seems to run small. NO SAMPLE.
NOTE: Lots of markings that are essential for successful construction. All seams are flat felled on the pattern.
However, it has been beautifully made with regular seams that are serged and top stitched. This is ONLY AN
OPTION if at least 3 people select this jacket.
Other options to be listed later in the semester.
Local Resources and TIPS:
Sewing Machines – Students use machines provided in the sewing lab. Students have access to the sewing lab
after hours by use of their UNCG swipe cards. Some students may want a sewing machine for personal use. A
sewing machine purchase is a major investment and a quality (not necessarily expensive) machine can last a
lifetime. Students considering purchasing a sewing machine are encouraged to visit ALL the local dealerships for
thorough demonstrations on machines. Research the availability of basic instruction, service and lessons before
making such a purchase. An expensive machine does not make a person sew well. Practice does.
Saving Money: Students are encouraged to register for on-line and mailed coupons from JoAnn’s and Hancocks.
Some stores also give student discounts. Almost all equipment and supplies will be on sale or available at
significant discounts using coupons. The first week of class, students may share some basic equipment but
students must have their own supplies by the 4th day of class for the sewing exam. Students without the text,
Juki equipment and basic sewing supplies will be dropped from the class. Materials recommended for this
class are used throughout your Apparel Design studies. Keep your receipts in case you need to make returns.
Materials and Equipment:
Sewing Machines:
The sewing lab has three models of sewing machines: Juki Model # DDL8300N, Bernina
1080 and Bernina 330 (as needed for special techniques) and Singers (for emergencies only). Students are
expected to have their own Juki machine attachments, bobbins, bobbin cases, and needles. Students rotate in
assignment to Juki and as needed the Bernina machines and all are expected to master the Juki machines.
Students do not use personal machines in class. Feet for the Bernina machines will be on loan during class or
instructor supervised help sessions. Lost or damaged Bernina attachments must be paid for by the student using
that machine. All students must have a pack of needles compatible for Bernina machines . See equipment list.
See required Juki supplies and sources at the end of this syllabus.
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* indicates this item is optional, but useful. Sign up on line to receive sale notice by mail and smart phone.
Underlined supplies are required.
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Equipment and Fabric: (Available from stores like JoAnn’s and Hancocks and many sewing specialty stores)
NOTE: Sewing kits that come with thread, scissors, measuring guides, etc., typically contain poor quality
equipment. The thread is not usable in our machines. I do not recommend purchase of these kits.
Cutting Materials (Text, p. 24-25)
Fabric scissors (Do not skimp on this investment. Gingers come on sale 40-50% off, and can be
sharpened at the factory in Greensboro on Edwardia Dr.) Gingher 7” or 8” sheers recommended. (I DO
NOT recommend the gold handled Ginger scissors. These are nickel plated and do not cut smoothly.)
Rotary cutter and replacement blades *
Paper scissors *
Small “snips” scissors * Gingher “craft” scissors are excellent and highly recommended. Look for them
on-line. The instructor has some for sale for $18.
NOTE: We will not use pinking shears in this class.
Measuring tools
Measuring guide (Text, page 22)
Quilter’s style ruler or gridded ruler 18” long by 2.” (Text, p. 22) or Flexible ruler at least 12” long
Cloth tape measure (Text, p. 22)
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Needles, pins, thimbles
Pin cushion – wrist style works well for pins
“Tomato” style pin cushion (used to keep track of your machine needles.) *
Pins – Dritz extra fine (white glass head), Dritz ultra fine (blue glass head), at JoAnn’s, Hancock’s, or
Clover extra fine pins – probably available at Studio Stitch.
Machine needles – Universal sizes 11 or 12, 14 or a pack of assorted sizes. I use Schmetz brand for
Bernina and my personal machines.
Juki machine needles are purchased with Juki accessories. Machine needles are not interchangeable.
You will need Juki needles for the Juki machines and Schmetz universal needles for the Bernina
machines. (Juki needles are round on the shaft, needles for the Bernina machines are flat on one side)
Hand sewing needles (Text, p. 20) I use “Betweens” for hand work and hand hemming.
Thimble * – Test the size before you buy it – you want a snug fit.
Other
Seam ripper – get one that fits your hand comfortably and has a sharp point. This is your best friend.
Point turner *(Text p. 28-29)*
Set of very small screwdrivers (Essential to change needles in machines and sergers.) In notions or near
quilt supplies.
Tweezers - essential for threading sewing machines and sergers. (UNCG book store with Juki supplies)
Hefty Jumbo Slider plastic bags (any brand will do, but you will want some of the 2.5 gallon size) to
organize your sewing projects and materials.
Container(s) to organize supplies. (A plastic grocery bag is not acceptable, a cardboard shoe box is.)
Lock for classroom locker (APD 200 students share lockers 2 or 3 per locker.)
Notebook to store class documents and handouts and organize portfolio. Cell phones and electronic
devices for retrieving documents are NOT allowed in class.
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Marking tools (Text, p. 23) chalk, marking pencils, etc. soap wedge
Artist graphite pencil size 2B or 3B is excellent for making working patterns. Look in the artist supply
sections (regular and mechanical pencils do not work well for tracing patterns.)
Gum or “artist” eraser
Frixion pen * (also known as erasable ball point pen) used for marking fabrics. (Office Supply stores)
Fabric marking pens – look in quilting supplies and notions.
Fabrics, interfacing, and thread
Muslin fabric for sewing samples. Purchase at least 3 yards initially. I recommend 100% cotton, 40-42”
wide, permanent press, if you have that option (about $2.99/yard). 40-42” wide muslin is easier to
handle than wider fabrics, less wasteful than 36”. Fold your fabric and place in a zip style plastic bag.
Thread: Purchase two different colors of good quality machine sewing thread – I prefer Gutterman and
Mettler, available at Hancocks, JoAnn’s, and sewing specialty stores. Some inexpensive thread does not
sew well in our machines. Do not use old thread; it can shred in your machine and cause problems.
Matching thread for your final project(s). See Text, p. 31-33.
Woven, fusible interfacing - light to medium weight or tricot knit light weight interfacing – Buy at least 3
yards. READ the end of the bolt – that’s where you find the style number. Keep the plastic sheet of
instructions pinned to the interfacing. Acceptable products include: Pellon brand SF101, SK135, EK130.
Pellon Bi-Stetch Lite 865 F is lovely to use on fine fabrics, but expensive. Non-woven products such as
Pellon 950F; 931TD; 906 F; 910; P447; P 45; 380; 541; 911FF; are NOT acceptable for APD 200.
“Tracing cloth.” Look for Pellon brand, #830 – get 1 yard initially. Located with interfacings. You do not
need the kind with grid lines. That is useful for advanced classes and projects.
Three – 6” or 7” zippers (not invisible style) any color. Sometimes referred to as “skirt zippers.” Do not
purchase zippers that are heavy weight for the current exposed zipper styles.
Fashion fabrics for final project – Please use woven fabrics for this class. It is easier to learn to sew on
100% cotton, linen, rayon and wool fabrics. Blends with cotton, linen, wool, and rayon also work well.
100% polyester fabrics, polyester/nylon blends, napped fabrics (like velvets and corduroys), stripes,
plaids, and dominant designs present unique sewing challenges and are discouraged. See “Fabrics”
Text, p. 51-72 for an excellent review of fabrics and appropriate uses. Some upholstery fabrics can be
great for jackets – but be careful if you choose this. I am glad to meet students at fabric stores to assist.
Note: Additional supplies will be necessary as the semester progresses. These will be announced.
Buttonholes –I will instruct students on the use of the Bernina 330 machines that make beautiful buttonholes.
Supplemental resources to increase your enjoyment of sewing:
Threads Magazine and Index: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/magazine-index
Recent issues are in the UNCG Library reading room, older issues in the stacks. An EXCELLENT resource. Highly
recommended. Threads magazine now offers “Insiders” an excellent on-line resource on techniques. Currently
available for about $13 to Threads magazine subscribers. Ask for a student discount when ordering a
subscription.
Marcy Tilton’s blog is interesting to read. Sign up at: http://marcytiltonblog.blogspot.com/
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Leah Day, a young North Carolinian, who writes a delightful blog, excellent machine quilting advice, on-line
store, etc. While her specialty is machine quilting, Leah is a real inspiration; she loves to sew and posts her
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Lee Monroe, Designer, quilter, and teacher. www.maychappell.com – Known for her creative quilt and
accessory designs, use of color, sewing tips, and masterful teaching. Her blog is worth following.
personal clothing projects. . leah@leahday.com and http://freemotionquilting.blogspot.com/ and
http://www.daystyledesigns.com/quiltshop.htm
Supplemental books to add to your sewing library
Bishop Method of Sewing Construction – a classic reference for sewing. Inexpensive, available as a used book.
Unit Method of Clothing Construction by The Iowa Home Economics Association, Iowa State University Press,
Ames Iowa. Inexpensive, available as a used book. Excellent illustrations and explanations.
Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, a nice compliment to our text. Read the reviews on Amazon to decide
what edition you would prefer. Used in some later APD classes.
Fabric Savvy: The Essential Guide to Every Sewer, by Sandra Betzina. Excellent guide for fabric characteristics
and uses. Available as a used book.
Claire Schaeffer, Fabric Sewing Guide. Anything written by Claire Schaeffer is worth reading and owning if
interested in couture sewing techniques. Inexpensive, available as used books.
Texas A & M Extension Service, free handouts on sewing techniques and fitting. EXCELLENT RESOURCE.
http://www.agrilifebookstore.org/category-s/1824.htm I recommend students make copies for future
reference.
Schedule and topics to be covered.
Please review carefully. Students are expected to come to class
with the materials needed, homework prepared and assigned readings completed. In addition to
assignments and sewing quizzes there may be brief unannounced pop quizzes.
Please note that all students are expected to demonstrate proficiency in threading and sewing on the Juki
sergers. Graded pass/fail 25 points. Students will meet individually, if necessary, with the class instructor or
assistant to complete this requirement. Use of a serger is an essential skill for all upper level APD classes.
Jan.12 (1) Introductory activity, review syllabus, materials needed for next class.
Sewing Skills check list due at the beginning of next class. Check only those items that you really do
know how to do. This is not a contest to see who knows the most! This helps your instructor plan the
class content. See Canvas documents if you need an extra copy.
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Jan. 19 (3) Essential Tools and Supplies and a crash course on beginning techniques.
Sewing Papers due at end of class (15 pts.)
How to sew a 9 patch (see Exam Jan. 21)
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Jan. 14 (2) Let’s Sew! Come to class with your text book, Juki attachments and supplies.
Bring completed Sewing Skills Check List
I will bring basic supplies for today if you have not had a chance to purchase all your sewing supplies.
Bring to class if you have: Non-Juki machine needles, straight pins, thread (any color) bobbins, machine
sewing foot, ripper, scissors, rotary cutter, ruler, and lots of patience. In class everyone will successfully
thread both Juki and Bernina machines, wind bobbins, and sew a 4 or 9 patch quilt block.
“Sewing Papers” distributed. Due end of class Jan. 19 (15 pts.)
Read about Sewing Machines Text pages 3-17
Be prepared to identify basic parts of the machine.
Note: Tension and adjustments (page 14-15)
Read Text, pages 18-29
Tools – What do these things do? How do I use them? Why do I need them?
Fabric Characteristics and Selection. Navigating a piece of fabric (grain, selvedges, cross grain)
Read, Text p. 51-65. 103-108
Bring Sandra Betzina’s Fabric Savvy if you have this book.
Class activity, time permitting. What’s in this fabric? How is it made? Reading labels. Burn tests (p. 54)
Sewing practice time during class as time permits.
Jan. 21 (4) Sewing Exam (40 pts.) including threading both Juki and Singer machines, winding bobbins, sewing a
9 patch sample. You will need your sewing and supplies for the Juki machines, two different colors of thread,
scissors, pins, and textbook. Bring muslin that you will cut in class exactly 4 pieces 5” x 5”. Additional fabric
squares will be provided for you to sew a 9 patch. Your grade will include evaluation based on your successful
(without instructor assistance) threading of Juki machines. You will have the entire class period and may leave
when finished. Students coming to the exam without their sewing materials may be dropped from the class.
Take Home Project materials distributed. Due Jan. 26 beginning of class. Needle case – materials and
instructions will be provided. (10 pts.)
Jan. 26 (5) ALL STUDENTS MUST NOW HAVE THEIR BASIC EQUIPMENT FOR APD 200 including muslin, Juki
supplies, fabric cutting equipment, sewing pins, tape measure, measuring guide, etc. See syllabus for
equipment list.
Needle case due at beginning of class on Jan. 26 (10 pts.)
Laying out, cutting and marking fabrics using a rotary cutter or fabric scissors in class).
Read, Text p. 104 on grain lines and straightening fabrics.
Text: p. 215 (mitered corners)
In class: Straightening fabrics, sewing a hemmed and mitered placemat. Fabric will be provided.
Bring sewing equipment, including thread in an assortment of colors.
Jan. 28 (6) Work session – complete placemat/edge stitching assignment started previous class. Edge
Stitching/Placemat assignment due end of class. (40 points).
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Feb. 4, 9 (8-9) Directional stitching, darts, side and shoulder seams, facing seams, pressing (SP) (50 pts.)
Bring to class: Working pattern, at least one full set of muslins (see above), two colors of contrasting
thread (one for bobbin and one for top), extra muslin, all sewing supplies, knit or woven interfacing –
light to medium weight (See supply list in syllabus).
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Feb. 2 (7) Sewing Proficiency Blouse (SPB) pattern to be distributed in class.
Bring to class all cutting and marking equipment including drawing pencil, muslin, pattern making
/tracing Pellon. DO NOT CUT OUT THE SPB PATTERN!
We will review thread and interfacings, fusible products, stabilizing a pattern, making accurate
“working” patterns, laying out of patterns, reading and labeling your pattern pieces. Use of rulers,
marking techniques, cutting with scissors and rotary cutters.
Read Text p. 105-108, 109-110.
Read: Text, pages 31-35, p. 48-49)
Read: Sequence of clothing construction, Text p. 114-117.
You may find it convenient to cut out two or more sets of each pattern piece since we will use the SPB
pattern pieces and muslins for class instruction and practice.
Trace one set of “working patterns” and bring all parts of the SPB cut out of muslin and correctly
marked by the beginning of next class. Write your name on each pattern and muslin piece.
In class we will construct a sample consisting of front, backs, with directional stitching, darts, shoulder
and side seams. Due at end of class Feb. 9. Will be returned at start of next class.
Read: Text p. 119-122, p, 148, Stitching for Control and Accuracy Text p. 149-153
Feb. 11, 16, 18 (10, 11, 12) Facings – Neck facing and Combined Facings, sewing curves and under stitching
Neck facing due end of class Feb. 16 (50 pts.) Combined facing (50 pts.) due beginning of class Feb.
23.
Bring to class cut out:
2 fronts; 2 sets of backs (2 of both left and right sides) cut from muslin.
One set of neck facings cut from muslin consisting of front and 2 back neck facing pieces
One set of neck facings cut from interfacing fabric to match front and 2 backs
One set of combined facings cut from muslin consisting of one front and two backs.
One set of combined neck facings cut from interfacing fabric to match combined facings.
NOTE: the sample due Feb. 9 will be returned in time for students to use for one of these facing
assignments.
In class: sewing on curves, appropriate clipping, trimming, under stitching, applying the SPB facing to
the blouse body using the Bishop Method.
Read: Text, p. 156-163; 209-214.
Bishop Method of attaching facings to accommodate a lapped zipper – in Documents of Canvas
Feb. 23, 25 (13& 14) Inserting a zipper – We will use the “Bishop Method.”
All students will need the Juki
split zipper foot that is essential for inserting zippers. Students will sew on Juki machines using both labs.
Read Text, pages 38-40, 243-251
Please note: a back zipper can be inserted before or after attaching the facing. The SPB will have the
zipper inserted AFTER the facing has been attached.
See illustrations: Reader’s Digest Sewing Guide, pages 140-14, p 291 for inserting zipper before facing, or
Unit Method of Clothing Construction, p. 109, inserting zipper AFTER attaching facing.
Review Bishop Method of attaching neck facings and inserting a zipper.
Bring at least TWO zippers – 6” or longer, zipper foot, muslin, SPB front, 2 SPB backs with shoulder darts
sewed, SPB facings, SPB facing interfacings all cut out. Sew shoulder darts of SPB and facings together
before class.
In class: We will practice inserting zippers on muslin pieces and the SPB.
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March 3 (16) Hems - machine and hand stitches. Start set in sleeves.
Bring to class: at least two sleeves cut out of muslin and correctly marked before class. You may wish
to draw diagonal lines on your fabric to indicate the “front” of your fabric so you don’t get the right and
left and “front” and “back” mixed up.
Bring hand sewing needles, thimble, SPB materials, bring extra muslin for practicing hem stitches.
Read: Text, p.215-216, 229-230
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March 1, (15) Sewing Exam (90 pts) Inserting a lapped zipper with neck facing using the Juki machines. Bring
to class SPB pieces cut out, including: front, backs, facings with interfacings attached to facings, 6” or 7” zipper,
two colors of thread, and sewing materials. In class you will directional stitch the neckline, sew the shoulder
darts, sew shoulder seams, combine the facing pieces, correctly attach the neck facing to the blouse using the
Bishop Method, under stitch the facing, insert the lapped zipper using the Bishop Method, and tack down the
facings along the zipper using hand stitches. You may bring handouts and text for references. You will have the
entire class period.
Begin discussion of final project – Jacket Options for this semester. Students make preliminary selections.
Class Sewing: One SPB sleeve will be hemmed using machine edge stitching. The other sleeve will be
hemmed using an appropriate hand hemming technique. You will use these hemmed sleeves for the
next assignment.
Friday, March 4 – LAST DAY TO DROP WITHOUT ACADEMIC PENALTY
March 5-13 Spring Break
March 15 (17) Easing fabrics/setting in sleeves, hems continued (90 pts.)
Bring all SPB parts and patterns to class, extra muslin. Have two sleeves cut out and marked correctly
when you come to class. You may use the sleeves from the hemming assignment and the front/back
sections from earlier assignments for practice.
Setting in sleeves, including reading markings, sewing ease threads, using a tailor’s ham (or substitute)
for shaping the sleeve cap, using sleeve roll to press sleeve seams, pressing the sewed sleeve, finishing
arms eye of sleeve. (Note, the SPB does not have a finished/serged arms eye.)
Class demonstration and student practice of
Round sleeve into round armhole
Flat setting in sleeve
Modified round/flat techniques
Read Text: p. 177-79.
NOTE: the SPB will have the sleeve inserted using the “round sleeve into a round armhole” method,
Text, p. 178. Setting in a sleeve “flat” as illustrated on p. 179 in the text will NOT demonstrate
proficiency for the SPB though that is a technique illustrated on some patterns and sometimes useful.
March 17 (18) Sewing Quiz (90 pts.) hemming a sleeve and setting it in the garment.
You may use your SPB from earlier assignments consisting of darts, directional stitching, shoulder and
side seams. You may have one sleeve set in and hemmed before class. Bring one cut, unsewed, but
marked muslin sleeve, to be hemmed and inserted in the bodice during class time. You may press the
sleeve hem before class, but it is to be entirely sewed during class time. The sewing quiz will grade
both sleeve hems and setting in of both sleeves in the SPB. One sleeve must be hemmed by hand. One
sleeve may be hemmed by machine or by using a second style of hand stitching. Due at the end of
class. Will be graded and returned next class period. You may use this sample (or other samples
constructed to date) as part of your Sewing Proficiency Blouse.
March 22 (19) Guest Speaker – Assignment for preparation for speaker will be distributed in advance of class.
The class will be assigned readings of articles from Threads Magazine, written by our guest. Students will find
another article from Threads Magazine on a related topic, summarize in ½ page or more, typed, with APA
style reference. Include in your paper one question that you would like to ask the presenter. Due at the end
of class March 22.
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March 29 – (21) Sewing Proficiency Blouse and Portfolio due at beginning of class.
Begin Final Project . Reading a commercial patterns
Bring: jacket pattern, fabric, interfacing, any working patterns, hand sewing needles and regular sewing
supplies.
Read: Text: 156-161
Read: Collars, Text p. 186-190.
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March 24, (20) WORK DAY - Sewing Proficiency Blouse to be completed and turned in at the beginning of
class March 29. (200 pts.)
What do you learn when you read a pattern envelope? Pattern pieces? Layout, Sewing Instructions? What size
pattern should you cut? Read Text p. 75-77, 82-83, 84-87,
Bring your final project pattern and fabric to class. If time permits, we will start pattern layouts. Before class
separate your pattern pieces (do not cut out on the lines) and write your name on every piece. Read the pattern
instructions before class. Put back in the pattern envelope the pattern pieces that you will not need. Put
everything, including the pattern pieces that you will be using in a large zip style plastic bag that has your name
written on it. We will spend class time on how to get started on your final project.
March 31, April 5, 7, 12, 14, 19, 21 (Last day of class)
Final Project (180-200 pts.) Students will work in small groups based on choice of pattern.
April 26, 27 (No class University follows Friday Schedule) and Reading Day – Optional help sessions may be
scheduled for these days. Details to be confirmed.
Friday, April 29, 8:00 a.m. Jacket Due (180-200 pts.)
Bring on hanger with rubric attached and hang in sewing lab no later than 8:00 a.m.
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May 3, 9-11: a.m. Final (50 pts.) Room to be confirmed. Students will prepare and submit a 2-3 page typed
summary and present a 5 minute talk on highlights of what they have learned, challenges, and future goals.
Include what you have learned about yourself and how this applies to your future goals in (or not in) apparel
design. See CARS Handbook on oral presentations and written work. Students may show samples and projects
from their semester’s work and personal sewing and design to support their presentation. This is NOT a review
of the syllabus! I will bring light refreshments.
JUKI Sewing Machine Parts
The UNCG Bookstore carries Juki machine supplies. Go to the “Customer Service” desk 2nd floor of bookstore.
The staff will assist you with the items needed for APD classes. Ask for Brittney.
Juki machine equipment can also be purchased directly from Bill’s Sewing Machine Co. Phone: 828-397-6941
Fax: 828-397-6293. Juki Model DDL8300N. Orders can be placed by telephone and charged on personal
credit cards. Ask the operator for “parts department for industrial machines.”
Students MUST have their Juki parts by the 4th day of class.
ITEMS IN BOLD ARE ESSENTIAL FOR APD 200.
Other items are optional, but are useful for students with advanced skills and students planning to move into
APD 250 and higher level classes.
Hinged foot
#24983
Split Zipper foot
#40322SH
Bobbin Case Assembly
#S03245-0-01
New Style Bobbin
#40264NS
I recommend students purchase 2 or more bobbins
16X257 #80 SCHMETZ (Juki machine needles) I recommend students purchase at least 2 packs
OPTIONAL ITEMS
Invisible Zipper Foot
#S518
(Essential for APD 251 and higher level classes)
***Right Hinged Cord Foot
#12435HN
(Used for cording and sometimes for lapped zippers)
***Left Hinged Cord Foot
#31358HN
(Used for cording and sometimes for lapped zippers)
***Sheering foot
#S950
12463H 1/16
12463H 1/8
12463H 3/16
Needles:
16X257 SES #80 Schmetz (ball pt.)
16x257 SES # 70 Schmetz (ball pt.)
16X257 #70 SCH
16X257 #90 SCH
16X257 #100 SCH
(1/16” width)
(1/8” width)
(3/16” width)
(for sewing on knits)
Note: SES means the needles are designed for knits.
*** students working on advanced projects find these attachments useful
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***Edge guide foot attachments -
Useful on coated fabrics, vinyl or leather like fabrics
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***MT 1 (molded Teflon foot)